# Buying a kitten - A guide



## dharma66

There is a surprising amount to consider, but none of it is difficult or prohibitive.

You've already made the first consideration that many people seem to overlook: it's a long term commitment, perhaps (hopefully!) twenty years or more.

The next question is: Moggie or pedigree?

IMHO, nothing wrong with either. I'm not sure about the genetics of ginger tabbies...they have a reputation for being male (the good old 'ginger tom'), but someone who knows the genetics can answer that.

If you are thinking about a moggie, you may have to look around quite a bit to get exactly what you want.

Even if you go for a moggie, I would suggest you go for a decent breeder, or good rescue centre. If you are offered a cat of less than 8 weeks of age, beware. The kitten will not be ready to leave its mother so young, and this can cause problems in later life.

Ideally, look for a kitten that has been brought up in a family environment. The better the kitten is socialised in its early weeks, the more joy you will have throughout its lifetime.

Consider indoor vs outdoor.

Many people think that keeping cats indoor only is cruel. But there is a counter argument that letting them roam free is cruel. The average lifetime of cats allowed to roam free is a little over two years! For indoor cats, it's somewhere around 15 years...

Consider vets fees. The kitten should come to you having had at least one round of vaccinations, two rounds if pedigree. The first are usually given at seven weeks, the second at twelve weeks. If you get the kitten at 8 or 9 weeks, you will have to do the second round of injections. Ideally, you should then have boosters yearly or as directed by your vet. Either way, an annual check-up is a good idea.

You should also have your vet give your new kitten a once-over a few days after you get it. Then, as time goes by, there is the risk of disease and injury. Pet insurance is well worth considering.

Next, question is: one or two?

If your cat will be indoors all day with nobody around, it's generally considered better to get two, rather than one. Litter mates are ideal! If you want just one, and it will be alone for more than a couple of hours a day, the bit about toys later on is even more important.

Cat flap. Do you want one? If so, then consider a collar or microchip operated one. These stop other cats coming into your house, which can be a very stressful experience for your cat, leading to undesirable behaviour (typically inappropriate toileting, or uncharacteristic aggression).

Food and litter. Ask whoever you get your kitten from what food and litter is being used. Keeping things the same at first makes the upheaval of moving your cat that little bit less stressful, and avoids little accidents and upset tummies.

You should have 1 litter tray per "social group", plus one extra. A social group is a set of cats who consider themselves 'friends and family'. If you have one cat, you have one social group. If you have two cats, you have one or two social groups. If they groom each other, sleep together and generally get on well, you probably have one social group. So that means two trays, in different places.

Always have water available.

Keep the litter tray(s) away from food. Cats are fastidious, and don't like to eat where they poop! They also don't really like to have their water right next to their food. If you can have it in different place, that's better.

Play with your kitten every day (most people who want a kitten don't need to be told to do that!). Play with toys, not your hands. Don't condition your cat to believe your hands and feet are targets! Buy plenty of toys, they are only cheap, and circulate which ones you use. Keeps it interesting for kitty.

High places and hidey-holes.

Hidey holes are good...except for gaps round the washing machine, fridge etc. Have a look around your home, especially the kitchen, and make sure there's nowhere that tiny paws can get themselves into tricky situations. Also consider the wires around your home. Tiny teeth are very sharp. you can get cable guard to avoid kitty getting a nasty shock!

Cats, however, do like dark corners, and they like high places. You can provide safe dark corners by having 'igloo' type beds, or even cardboard boxes (which they seem to love). See if you can provide a few high places for kitty to sit and survey his kingdom. A couple of gaps on bookshelves, for example. "Cat trees" are great for this, and cheap on ebay.

Holidays.

What are you going to do when you go on holiday? Worth thinking about now: do you have someone you can depend on to come in and feed? Would you rather employ a professional pet-sitter, or use a cattery? Consider the possible costs now, rather than be taken by surprise later.

Do you have other pets? If so, the new kitten will have to be introduced in a controlled and gradual manner (details available in other threads or in a good book) in order to have the best chance of a friendly relationship. Same with children, actually! Your new kitten will want to sleep as much as 18 hours a day, so children should be encouraged to play at play time, and leave kitty alone when she's sleeping.

Wow.

Didn't expect to go on so much! That's a lot of information, and if you bothered to read all my waffle, then I guess you are REALLY serious about it 

I'm sure you'll agree, though, that like I said at the start, whilst there's a lot to consider, nothing is really difficult to do.

The final, and most important things to consider are: Can you stand the excitement, and what will you call her 

EDIT
+++
Oops. Forgot one important bit.

Coat length. Longhaired coats need regular, ideally daily grooming. Not many moggies have coats as long and as fine as a Persian, which simply MUST be groomed daily, but some longhair and semi-longhair moggies have coats that still require grooming at regular intervals. At least weekly.

Get your kitten used to grooming as soon as possible. Keep it gentle and light, though don't encourage playing with the grooming brush! Bribery is fine. A couple of scraps of ham can make the whole thing more pleasant for everyone!

Whilst I'm at it, a couple more bits. Get your kitten used to being placed on a towel and examined. You don't have to do it a lot, but every couple of weeks whilst she's young, and every couple of months after that, place her on a towel, and when she's settled, look into her mouth, inspect her paws, under her tail, feel her legs and look in her ears etc. This makes visits to the vets a lot more familiar to her. If you want, you can even give her teeth the odd clean. Or even get a weekly routine of tooth cleaning going if you like. I believe some people clean their cats teeth daily! I suspect the same people dress them up and call them 'princess' though 

Also, if you have (and ideally you should) a cat carrier for vet visits, bring this out now and ten, and leave it around for kitty to explore for a day or two, then put it away again. Then, when the carrier appears, kitty is much less likely to do a vanishing act.

OK. That's a big enough edit!


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## Tje

excellent post!!!!! well done you for taking the time and effort. brilliant initative :thumbup:


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## Bugselliecharlie

Hi 

I've only joined what looks like an excellent group today, thank you for the welcome messages. 

I am really hoping so much that someone can give me some much needed advice. I have already written this out once and then somehow managed to lose it so I'm really frustrated, especially considering the content. I have a seven week old, very tiny hand reared kitten who, though very small, seemed to be doing oksy intil the last few days. I also have his brother, who though small, is much bigger than this one and appears, fingers crossed, to be thriving. 

The one I am very worried about was much more alert and had also started playing but now all he wants to do is to sleep. The positive thing is that he is eating, mainly Whiskas kitten food. I did try him with Lactol again but it seemd to give him the runs and he was sick a couple of times too. He has had two antibiotic injections, though really as the vet said, she can't really see anything to treat. I took him to the emergency vets on Thursday evening as he looked even weaker than usual and I feared for his life. The vet couldn't offer any treatment, he just gave me a couple of tips really. 

If this little chap has a condition that he was born with that is making him so lifefless, it's hard to understand why he got through the first six and a half weeks or so, with no apparent problems. If it is somethnig else, how can this be checked and then treated when he is so very small and extremely vulnerable. The emergency vet said to rub honey round the inside of his mouth a few times, which I've done, but I think this really would have been of help if he wasn't eating, which he is, in order to stimulate his appetite. 

If anybody can offer any advice at all, i would be so very grateful. I am out of my mind worrying about him and will do anythnig that may give him a fighting chance. Thank you so very much for reading this. i have tried to keep it unemotional but I am in pieces over it all, as I know you will understand if you are in this group.

Any suggestions, especially if it's thnigs you've done yourself, will be really appreciated.

Here's hoping - and again a huge thank you. xx


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## Tje

I know you say he is eating… but the key question here is _how much is he eating_.

Second vital point is his weight. Have you been weighing him daily? If not, start now. Weigh him every day at set times. Preferably weigh his brother too so we all have something to compare with. He is 7 weeks old, he should weigh (at the very least) 700 grams.

My gut feeling is, he is not eating enough. You may (depending on how much he is eating, and what he weighs and what he is gaining) have to start force feeding with a syringe.

Whiskas as a food is … well, it's better than nothing. But it would help him immensely if you could switch him gradually over to a food with a far higher protein content. Hopefully Hobbs, our resident cat food guru, can you some tips on good high protein cat foods.

if you can answer my questions, I will try my very best to help you… as will a lot of the lovely kitten people on this forum…. But we need to know the basics first. It sounds like typical "poor-eating kitten, seperated too young from its mummy" syndrome to me, but without lots of details it's hard to say.

best of luck.


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## Tje

I dont have any Whiskas here to check the daily recommended feeding guide for kittens. But if I compare it to Royal Canin Kitten Instinctive pouches well a 7 week old kitten would usually weigh around 800grams, and at that weight they should be eating 2-3 pouches of this food each day. I would think Royal Canin is nutritionally better than Whiskas, so I would think your little kitten should be eating at least 2½ to 3 pouches of Whiskas daily. Is he eating anywhere near that amount??


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## hobbs2004

Here are some that I had pulled together for a different thread. The list tells you how much meat is in it and where you can typically buy them. They are complete wet foods that don't break the bank.

- *Bozita* - 93% meat content in their tetrapacks and available to order online from seapets, e and r, and zooplus. (about 4% fat). Bozita also do a tinned version, which is a pate that has 97% meat and 5% fat
- *Purely* has got a meat content of 50% I believe and is available from Pets at home. About 2% fat
- *Natures Menu* has a 70% meat content, and is available from Pets at home too as well as other places. About 6% fat
- *Feline Fayre *is often fed by people here - the black pouches are complete- available in Asda, Morrisons etc (about 2% fat)
- *HiLife* - also has a good meat content - varies from 45% to 70% depending on type. About 2% fat
- Tesco also do a wet food that has a high meat content - I believe it is called *Tesco Luxury* 49% and *Tesco Finest* 49% +. The meat versions of *Tesco Just Nature* contain 60% meat. 
- *Porta 21* - tends to be whole meat tuna (46%) and the rest broth; very low fat 0.5%; available from zooplus. Porta is a bit like complementary food in terms of its texture but it is a complete food. Just low on fat. You could add some goose fat to fatten it up a bit.

There are also these, which are in consistency like applaws and co:
Zooplus also do *Schmusy* - which is pure meat in jelly. They do Vollwertflakes, which is 80% meat and animal byproducts, and some rice in pouches (though it may not be a full 100% of chicken that makes up the 80% meat (if that makes sense). They do a just chicken one for that. 20 pouches are £8.90 (£0.44 for 100g). This is also a complete food.

There is also *Cosma Original *- that comes in a 85g tin and is shredded meat like applaws also in broth and a little rice. 45% meat. Like applaws it is not a complete food, but since you are feeding dry that is less of an issue. 6 tins of cosma is £3.99 on zooplus (£0.78 for 100 g).

Zooplus also sells *Schesir* - again shredded meat in broth, with a great selection of chicken flavours (pure chicken, with surimi, with ham - not sure whether they would eat that). Comes in 85 g tins and 6 are £4.79 - so not cheaper than applaws. About 60% meat but like applaws and co light on fat (£0.94 for 100g).

If your cat eats pate, then you could try these:
- *Pet's Kitchen* (Joe & Jills) - 90% meat content, about 8 - 10% fat - available from them directly - Pets Kitchen - Experts in natural pet food, developed by Joe Inglis TV Vet
- *Lily's Kitchen *- 65% organic meat; 5.5% fat - available from them directly: Lily's Kitchen • Organic Dog Food, Organic Cat Food • Natural Complete Pet Food • Certified Holistic, Ethically produced • Natural dog food, Grain free cat food.
-*Grau *- 89% meat content and 4% wholegrain rice; 5.5% fat - available from zooplus
- *Herrmanns* - 97% organic meat, about 4-6% fat - available at zooplus but pricey but only need 1 pouch per day 
And there is Ziwi Peak!

IMO kitten food is a commercial invention to increase profit - most high-end cat food companies don't offer different kitten food; the cat just gets the same food throughout the ages.

The chunks in adult food can be too big for small kittens - so just mash them up a little.

Hope that helps


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## lizward

I wonder if I could add some things to this thread?

1. Cheaper is not always better value. Vaccinations and a microchip cost near £80 per kitten at my vet (prices will vary up and down the country). That unregistered pedigree kitten sold at 8 weeks for £100 less than the normal price of a registered pedigree (which will come with backup from the breeder if things go wrong, if only because the breeder does not want the GCCF to get involved) is not the bargain it seems to be.

2. Some breed descriptions given by breeders of unregistered cats are not worth the paper they are printed on. In particular, "British Shorthair", "Persian" "Bengal" and "Maine Coon" seem to be applied these days to all sorts of cats. If there are no papers (at least a pedigree certificate) and you cannot see the parents, assume that "British Shorthair" means "moggie", "persian" means "long haired moggie" "bengal" means "tabby" and "maine Coon" means "large long haired cat" - this particularly applies to claimed cross breeds.

3. Getting a kitten at 6 weeks old is asking for trouble, some kittens are not even properly weaned at this stage and this is the age at which they are most likely to go down with diarrhoea, which can easily kill them if it is not treated very promptly. If you take on a kitten that young, realise that you are taking a gamble and could find yourself seriously out of pocket. Insurers will not insure kittens below 8 weeks for a very good reason!


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## Tje

lizward said:


> I wonder if I could add some things to this thread?
> 
> 1. Cheaper is not always better value. Vaccinations and a microchip cost near £80 per kitten at my vet (prices will vary up and down the country). That unregistered pedigree kitten sold at 8 weeks for £100 less than the normal price of a registered pedigree (which will come with backup from the breeder if things go wrong, if only because the breeder does not want the GCCF to get involved) is not the bargain it seems to be.
> 
> 2. Some breed descriptions given by breeders of unregistered cats are not worth the paper they are printed on. In particular, "British Shorthair", "Persian" "Bengal" and "Maine Coon" seem to be applied these days to all sorts of cats. If there are no papers (at least a pedigree certificate) and you cannot see the parents, assume that "British Shorthair" means "moggie", "persian" means "long haired moggie" "bengal" means "tabby" and "maine Coon" means "large long haired cat" - this particularly applies to claimed cross breeds.
> 
> 3. Getting a kitten at 6 weeks old is asking for trouble, some kittens are not even properly weaned at this stage and this is the age at which they are most likely to go down with diarrhoea, which can easily kill them if it is not treated very promptly. If you take on a kitten that young, realise that you are taking a gamble and could find yourself seriously out of pocket. Insurers will not insure kittens below 8 weeks for a very good reason!


*Couldn't agree more. * :thumbup:

Regards point 1. This also applies to "free to good home kittens".

The shelter I volunteer for... all kitten cost about 50-60 euros (roughly 50 quid) but for this you get a kitten who has grown up in a family home and is well socialised, wormed 3 times with quality products, is fully deflead, has been health checked at least 3 times by the vet, has reached a safe minimum age and weight, is vaccinated fully for the first twelve months, plus you get a voucher for 50% off spaying or neuetrring when they reach the 4-6month old mark, plus you get a "one month guarantee" for any health problems the kitten should develop in the first month it's with you (vet visit and medication free). You can get a kitten for free from adds in papers etc, but by the time you de-flea, de-worm and vaccinate, it usually costs a good deal more than getting a shelter kitten with a known background.


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## jdoevans

Great post. I think (as you do) it is really important for people to have a good hard think about it before buying a cat. There are too many irresponsible pet owners out there! I found a page about things to consider before getting a cat.


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## Nando

Hi Ive recenetly joined this site but its been really helpful with some of the things ive read, our kitten is about 5 months old now and isnt as wild as he once was but still has his moments, thing is ive seen recommedations of how much he should be eating at this point and i was wondering about your opinions on the subject, He has dry food available to him throughout the day and night and we give him half a pouch of wet food in the morning and one int he evening(whiskas for both dry and wet).

what we read is that he should be getting upto 2 pouches a day but to be fair he doesnt always eat all of what we give him. hes an indoor cat but is playfull, and to be honest im not sure of his weight right now. upon his last visit to the vets when he'd been on the same diet for a while she said his weight was fine not too skinny not too fat.. Not very specific I know but thats the vets for you tell you hes ok then say what could happen if you dont buy their products, thanks for any help in advance


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## dharma66

Welcome to the forums!

The amount if food he old be eating depends on his weight and what food he is fed.I'm not fAmiliar with the amounts that should be fed with Whiskas, but if it should be two pouches a day, then if he is getting dry as well, then reducing the amount of wet is good.

Really, it depends on the amount of dry he is getting,nisweight, and what is recommended for Whiskas.


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## Tje

Nando, the 2 pouches per day is only when the pouches are the only thing he is eating. Your cat has dry food at his disposal, so its normal hed only need 1 pouch, as the other half of his diet he is getting from the dry. And like you say, he looks good (not too fat, not too thin). Just watch out for weight gain after you get him neutered, but the vet will warn you of that at the time. If you want more specific dietary advice then have a look on the food and nutrition section of this (cat) forum. 

Welcome to the forum by the way!!


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## kitty_katt

Hi there,

Bear with me as i've just registered!! :thumbup:

Me and my partner have just decided to adopt a kitten after several months of deciding or not to have another puss-tat!! 

The friend I'm getting him off has just been told that their only 6 weeks old and not the 9 weeks she was told a few days ago!! 

The person in question refuses to have them for any longer and will only take them to the RSPCA otherwise. 

Now its a litter of three and their currently at my friends house after being picked up this evening. 

The advice i'm after is is it best to leave them all together for a couple of weeks?? Or is it best for us to get him to his new home and get him settled as soon as possible?

He's currently on kitten milk and soft food so if we got him tomorrow whats the best diet to have him on??

All advice would be gratefully appreciated.


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## Tje

kitty_katt said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Bear with me as i've just registered!! :thumbup:
> 
> Me and my partner have just decided to adopt a kitten after several months of deciding or not to have another puss-tat!!
> 
> The friend I'm getting him off has just been told that their only 6 weeks old and not the 9 weeks she was told a few days ago!!
> 
> The person in question refuses to have them for any longer and will only take them to the RSPCA otherwise.
> 
> Now its a litter of three and their currently at my friends house after being picked up this evening.
> 
> The advice i'm after is is it best to leave them all together for a couple of weeks?? Or is it best for us to get him to his new home and get him settled as soon as possible?
> 
> He's currently on kitten milk and soft food so if we got him tomorrow whats the best diet to have him on??
> 
> All advice would be gratefully appreciated.


I would *never* buy a 6 week old kitten, period! Just take a look at the many posts in here if you are in any doubt about the problems you can (and will) experience when you get a kitten too young.


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## luisa

kitty_katt said:


> Hi there,
> 
> Bear with me as i've just registered!! :thumbup:
> 
> Me and my partner have just decided to adopt a kitten after several months of deciding or not to have another puss-tat!!
> 
> The friend I'm getting him off has just been told that their only 6 weeks old and not the 9 weeks she was told a few days ago!!
> 
> The person in question refuses to have them for any longer and will only take them to the RSPCA otherwise.
> 
> Now its a litter of three and their currently at my friends house after being picked up this evening.
> 
> The advice i'm after is is it best to leave them all together for a couple of weeks?? Or is it best for us to get him to his new home and get him settled as soon as possible?
> 
> He's currently on kitten milk and soft food so if we got him tomorrow whats the best diet to have him on??
> 
> All advice would be gratefully appreciated.


if you are definately getting him and there no way of leaving him til 9 weeks then you have to make sure hes on exactly the same food as what he is at home for a good few weeks before you change their food.

there are lots of people that get kittens at 6 weeks... its not the best some have behaviour problems. But and it is a big But it can be combatted with time and patients.

iv had my 2 from 6 weeks they were rescued from a litter that was thrown out! iv never ever had problems with them at all.

only get a 6 week old kitten if you can be there for it alot ... it may not be properly weaned.

i wouldnt advise anyone getting 1 6 week old kitten on its own they need company of a litter mate. it saves you lots of blood n scratches too.

hope it helps.

some people will preach to you about it. yes i agree its not the best but if its done its done an you learn from it.

its entirely your decision and if you need help ill be happy to help.


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## Tje

luisa said:


> there are lots of people that get kittens at 6 weeks... its not the best some have behaviour problems. But and it is a big But it can be combatted with time and patients.
> 
> some people will preach to you about it. yes i agree its not the best but if its done its done an you learn from it.


Luisa, the behaviour problems are only part of the reason not to get a 6 week old kitten.... the fact that very many of them (as witnessed daily on this forum) can't eat enough to sustain themselves is another very vaild reason. many of these kittens die purely because they can't get enough food inside and their new owners are too inexperienced to even see there is a problem.

Yes I do preach this... and I do that for a very good reason...

For the vast majority of folks out there... it is not as easy as it is for you and me. We have the time patience knowledge and know how of how to deal with poorly socialized undernourished 5 week olds... most on this forum don't.

If every poster was more like you Luisa, then I wouldn't need to preach the message that 6 weeks is too young, however you are in a tiny minority of posters capable of taking this hefty task on. For every one Luisa on this ofrum we have 99 Joe (or Josephine) Bloggs who simply can't cope with malnourished socially inept kittens.

Please think Luisa before giving the impression that it's relatively easy and just a bit of time and patience will conquer any problems with too young kittens.

I can bottle feed new born kittens while I am half asleep and I can be bottle feeding one and toileting an other at the same time ... after lots of practice it gets easier, of course it does ... that doesn't detract though from the fact that it would be highly irresponsible of me to make out like hand rearing kittens isn't that difficult as long as you have the time and a bit of patience.

When people have a in-born knack for something, or when they have hands on experience of something, or when they have a passion for something... the task at hand often is easy for them ....

that doesn't mean though that we are all qualified to change the brake pads in our cars or knock down supporting walls in our home.

And I can assure you that not everyone can sucessfully cope with malnourished poorly socialized 6 week old kittens.


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## kitty_katt

Hi there,

Thanks for the advice.

We picked him up on Friday evening after deciding that we would bring him home to settle here rather than at my friends house. We felt uprooting him twice in the space of a couple of weeks would be even more distressing.

He's currently on the same food he was on at the house where he'd been for the last 6 weeks and also kitten milk.

As for his eating he's eating like a gannet aswell as enjoying the milk.

He is toilet trained and has been regular with his toilet habits, his stools have not been at all runny or hard abit like what i would describe as hard mousse!

He is washing and has clear eyes,ears and nose aswell as having a beautiful set of pink gums and lips! 

He sleeps all through the night and only gets up when we do and then he goes back to sleep during the day with a water bottle under his bed.

He's extremely outgoing aswell as being onto everything. 

As said in your post's its not an ideal situation and me and my partner dont have "expertise" on rearing kittens but i'm hoping with the help and advice of people in the know we can give him the upbringing and home and care and love he deserves!


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## Pety

Hiya! It has been said but will day it again - a very good post Dharma66. I have a new kitten at home and think the idea with getting them used to being checked on a towel is very clever and will definitelly start doing it :thumbup:


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## LucysKittens

Wow.. Great advice!  Nice one...

Thought I'd share with you cat lovers a great video I took today of my new little kittens, available in high definition too 

YouTube - Cute kittens

Hope you enjoy xx


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## jdoevans

I think a lot of people assume that pet shops are the best place to buy kittens. But no so! Here is a short piece on where to buy a kitten which might be useful. The important thing is to buy one from a reliable and trustworthy source, not one from a pet shop that you don't know any history of!


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## Reward

Hi i have just joined the forum and really appreciate the advice that is on here.

We are thinking of getting a kitten, but have never had a cat before.
Some of our biggest questions are...

we are moving into a new house soon and are a little worried how much 'damage' a kitten would do?

We work full time, would a kitten be ok on its own? is it best to get 2?

i dont much like the idea of keeping it on the house all the time but the thought of it killing little things and bringing them back upsets me, would a bell fix this problem?

one practical question, is can you have a alarm on your house if there is a cat indoors?

how essential are cat flaps? our new house only has patio doors at the back and dont really like the idea of a cat flap on the front door.

any advice would be appreciated.

thanks 
Rachel


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## dharma66

One thing for sure, having one or more cats in your life will be very rewarding!

Kittens won't necessarily do a lot of damage, but it does depend a little on breed, and a lot on the individual

This Ali's ties in with the question of one or two. If you work full time, two is a much bettter option. One on it's own will feel bored, and most breeds would also feel lonely. Two will keep themselves occupied, and are much kess likely to try to find entertainment by shredding the soft furnishings 

In or out is a big question. They won't necessarily be god hunters and bring thugs in. My first cat only ever brought one thing back in her 14 years. Some breeds a re very happy indoors, especually if they have lots of toys that you rotate, and plenty of hiding spaces for chasing games.

We put our alarm on, as it has a setting that enables the vibration/opening sensors on doors and windows, but disables motion detectors. Cats will trigger moron sensors normally.

A cat flap is not essential. If you do want one, you can get them fitted into double glazed doors. You can buy some that you cut a hole in each pane for, but these will destroy the insulation effect of the double glazing. There are some dibble glazing firms that will fit cat flaps to double glazed panels. This is better as the double glazing is still effective. It is much more expensive, though, I believe.

Keep us informed, and if you do decide to get a kitty or two, there's a photo section in the forum, and we always loge to new arrivals:thumbup:


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## Reward

i dont really know anything about breeds, just a affectionate one that is nice lol

any ideas? been looking at rescue centres in the local area, they seem to have 100's so surely be a good thing to help if i can.

does anyone know how well they would mix with a rabbit as we are thinking of getting a couple in the spring?


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## dharma66

Rescuing is a great way to get one or two cats. Whilst there are many cats, you might find there is a waiting list fir kittens, but yes, go for it!

Cats can get on well with rabbits. It's not something I have experience if, but I would suggest there might be some risk introducing small rabbits to big cats. One cat I knew years ago used to regularly catch and eat full grown wild rabbits!


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## juroxzg3

Whats a Moggie And Whats Pedigree?


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## alisondalziel

A moggie is any kind of mixed breed and is often known as a "domestic shorthair".

A pedigree is a specific breed of cat which have certain characteristics and colours and often have certain personalities specific to that breed. Examples of pedigrees are british shorthair, persian and siamese.


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## juroxzg3

Meet Max,a kitten that i got from one lady hes a Maine Coon adoreble


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## juju169

Hi. I'm new here too, one thing jabs are done at nine weeks (and Twelve) which is why backstreet breeders (or should I say abortionists, cos they are just as bad!) sell their so called pedigree cats at just nine weeks.

If you want a pedigree cat go to the breed sites first. DO NOT BUY WITHOUT FULL PAPERWORK otherwise you are buying a fake! Ok it might not be anything other than pure bred but it will have been bred using pet quality cats, the pedigree you receive will be worthless too as there is no registration documentation to back it up!

I'd recommend only looking at GCCF (or maybe FB registered catteries) as the 'other' registry is a bit too lax!


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## cazzajane

Hi all, I'm a newbie to the forum too, just not new to cats - I was lucky enough to have 4 of the gorgeous things until last year - I hadn't considered that if I got 2 lots of 2 18 months apart, that they might all go together, and I sadly lost 3 last year. However, at 19 and a half and 18 respectively, I know they had very good lives. I now have my lovely Jerry left who seems to be strong and healthy, and wonderfully not remotely put out by the 2 rescue kittens I bought home 2 weeks today. They had a tragic start (found abandoned with their mum and 2 other siblings in the first bout of snow) but are fit and healthy now around 9/10 weeks old. 

I am used to very affectionate cats. These two, whilst more than happy to play while I'm in the room, eat or even poop!, but the minute you reach a hand out towards them (unless it has a Wotsit attached to the end) they disappear. Am I just being really impatient?? Its a little hard to spend a LOT of time with them as they are really nocturnal and only surface around this time of the evening (6.30pm), so whilst I am more than happy to spend time with them in my spare room (the CPL encourage you to give them a quiet space to themselves) as much as I would love to I can't spend every evening in there with them. Last night I left the door open and sat downstairs and they charged around like lunatics for about 3 hours but didn't venture down more than 2 stairs, and if I headed up to them, under the bed they went .. 

Some people recommend you just ignore them and they will come to you when you're ready, what do you think? Should I start to let them just roam free around the house? They can't come to any harm, its a small house, cat flap is locked etc, but I'm acting like a nervous mother I think!!

Any thoughts VERY welcome!


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## olalu

Hello, First I would like to thank you for such great info. I have just got a new persian kitten since one week ago,, she is 6 weeks old now. I love her so much and she is really smart also. she knows where is her litter box and food. but I noticed that she smells baf after urination and defecation and I noticed that she can't clean her self after pooping. so everey time I notice that I wash her back with water. is this normal or she needs to develop some missing skills ,,,
please if any body can help ????


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## MatildaG

Could be because when you got her at 5 weeks old she was less than half the age she should have been when taken away from her mum....


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## LolaRose2010

this has helped me ALOT  Thank you for posting this and im very much looking forward to buying me and my sons 1st kitten


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## DiscoRia

This is a fantastic resource! Thanks for putting so much effort into it. It actually made me realise I'm worrying about a lot of things for nothing... or rather over worrying. There *are* a lot of things to think about but none of them are very difficult.

I think your post will go a long way to helping my partner overcome his worries too


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## DeliriousDonna

Wow this is a great guide for first time cat owners like myself. The advice about getting the kitten used to sitting on a towel for check ups is genius and I will definitely be starting this when we get our two little bundles of fluff in a few weeks time


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## izzy22999

Hi

I already have two cats and would love a kitten but I work full time and wondered if there was any way that I would be able to keep a kitten.

Hopefully there is. 

Izzy
x


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## Ingrid25

thanks!
i am a first time poster, and buyer of a new birman kitten named Leo.

this helped heaps!


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## katehazelfisher

Bugselliecharlie said:


> Hi
> 
> I've only joined what looks like an excellent group today, thank you for the welcome messages.
> 
> I am really hoping so much that someone can give me some much needed advice. I have already written this out once and then somehow managed to lose it so I'm really frustrated, especially considering the content. I have a seven week old, very tiny hand reared kitten who, though very small, seemed to be doing oksy intil the last few days. I also have his brother, who though small, is much bigger than this one and appears, fingers crossed, to be thriving.
> 
> The one I am very worried about was much more alert and had also started playing but now all he wants to do is to sleep. The positive thing is that he is eating, mainly Whiskas kitten food. I did try him with Lactol again but it seemd to give him the runs and he was sick a couple of times too. He has had two antibiotic injections, though really as the vet said, she can't really see anything to treat. I took him to the emergency vets on Thursday evening as he looked even weaker than usual and I feared for his life. The vet couldn't offer any treatment, he just gave me a couple of tips really.
> 
> If this little chap has a condition that he was born with that is making him so lifefless, it's hard to understand why he got through the first six and a half weeks or so, with no apparent problems. If it is somethnig else, how can this be checked and then treated when he is so very small and extremely vulnerable. The emergency vet said to rub honey round the inside of his mouth a few times, which I've done, but I think this really would have been of help if he wasn't eating, which he is, in order to stimulate his appetite.
> 
> If anybody can offer any advice at all, i would be so very grateful. I am out of my mind worrying about him and will do anythnig that may give him a fighting chance. Thank you so very much for reading this. i have tried to keep it unemotional but I am in pieces over it all, as I know you will understand if you are in this group.
> 
> Any suggestions, especially if it's thnigs you've done yourself, will be really appreciated.
> 
> Here's hoping - and again a huge thank you. xx


Our little kittens both had bad tummies for a few weeks when they were very little. We were feeding them whiskas. The vet said this was not unusal as Whiskas is too rich for a lot of cats. We moved them on to Royal Canin (first the sensitive one to calm their stomachs down and then the kitten one). It is more expensive but I think Whiskas is about 4% meat and Royal Canin 75%+! There tummies have been fine since the move over. We ran out of cat food the other morning so I thought I would give them Whiskas before going to the shop as a one off but they both licked the jelly off and then turned up their noses which I thought was quite telling!


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## bloggingvet

Don't get too hung up about how many pouches to feed your cat. Your vet was actually correct. If your pets weight is correct then you are feeding, or at least your pet is eating enough. If your pet is overweight then he is eating too much and if underweight ( very rare as pet food manufacturers always slightly overstate how much to feed) then they are not getting enough. Also the guides on the packets are just that guides, not set in stone. So if your pet looks a good weight and your vet confirms this then don't panic you are doing just fine.


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## mykittenleon

i have a six week old kitten so this is what i reccomend if you are having a young kitten like me.
litter - pets at home wood pellet litter (or use any other brands wood pellet litter)

food/drink - kitten milk tescos and tap water (not mixed together) for food whiskers kitten food half of packet per meal for wet food for dry food any dry food brand but only put ten pieces of it in bowl

extras- to get kitten used to food and litter at night time and a lot of day please supervise day if you can much possible shut the kitten in the kitchen which will have litter, toys, food and drink . 
contact for an more info at: [email protected]


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## Jiskefet

I don't know how you came to have a 6 week-old kitten, but it should be with its mother for at least another 6 weeks!!!!
They are usually just starting to eat enough solid food to survive on, but they really need their mother. They will still drink milk, which will boost and activate their own immune system, and mother still has to teach them quite a lot of necessary things

Xena, was 6 weeks old when she was found at a campsite without her mother or siblings, and she was taken to a foster home. Unfortunately th only available mother was already chasing her own - much older - kittens away, but at least she grew up with other cats in the rescue's foster home. 

But I can still tell she has lost her mother too early. She tries to snatch every morsel of human food she can find and, unlike the other cats, doesn't respond to being told 'no', she will attack, instead. She has missed the entire stage of her mother disciplining and training her.
And she still comes to me to suckle, she has ruined most of my clothes.....


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## Suz1990

Hello

About three weeks ago I found a kitten who had been dumped outside. I have hand reared him on the vets advice and he has now been weaned. The vet I took him too estimated that he was born around the 7th Nov making him around seven weeks now. He is litter trained and away to get his first set of injections in the new year.

My quick question is what behavioural problems am I to expect as he gets older and how would I "train him" to prevent these problems arising? He already can be bad for scratching me and my partner.

Thanks x
Suz and Charlie


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## Rraa

It is so good to read that you kindly took this little "boy" in and are now looking after him. Is he litter trained now? If not, he should be using the litter tray reasonably reliably once he is weaned. Normally his mother would teach him this. If he is not already litter trained, you will need to watch him and as soon as you see him squatting, scoop him up and pop him gently into the litter tray and follow up with lots of purrs and praise once he has done something in there. 

Assuming that he is already litter trained, you will just need to keep to the vet's advice about the next stage for his vaccinations once he is 12 weeks old. Also, he will need to be regularly wormed - check with your vet but its usually every 3 months. Following that, you will probably need to get him neutered at around 6 months. 

All the best with this little babe. It seems he has landed safely on his little paws after all, when you found him.


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## Suz1990

Hey
Thanks for replying  Charlie brings us so much enjoyment. He is off to the vets tonight for a check up *fingers crossed that he is ok*

Yeah Charlie is now littered trained - with only 1 accident in the last two weeks 

He just keeps trying to nurse on blankets now - he misses his mum and its heartbraking 

I just hope she's alright too - can't get my head around why you would dump a kitten at a recycling point.


Suz and Charlie x


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## mesira

hi everyone
really helpful posts.
i read all of them. i'm thinking to have a kitten.
but i can't decide. you know, it's a long commitment. 
i don't have a garden, i have a closed balcony.
does it take a long time in a day to care a cat?
because i and my husband work long hours.

should i have or not?
any ideas?


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## juju169

Hi, I would recommend that you buy an older cat, maybe a retired Queen, they often get along very nicely by them selves, don't tend to wreck your home like some kittens do and they will be neutered already. Also it is quiet usual for them to have never been outside cats, so they will not miss a garden at all.

I do have an interest in this though as I have a small seletion of retired Maine Coon Queens who need new loving homes, the youngest is a year and a half and the oldest is six, neither of them has had kittens! I live near Wellington in Somerset if you are interested email me [email protected].


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## sharon7

Hi

I am a first time cat owner and will be collecting my cats in June and have some ques 

Can anyone recommend any wet food I could give them? I think atm they will be on ASDA own brand. Are any supermarket food good? I am not sure whether I will be able to buy online at the beginning. i would like to give them quality food but cant afford too expensive. 

Can anyone recommend any insurance cover - it is worthwhile?

Can anyone recommend any websites to purchase items from (other than zooplus)?

When do kittens have to have their flea spray?

The kittens wont be vaccinated when we collect them at 12 weeks - I am not sure whether to get them and do the vaccinations straightaway or wait for them to settle in??

Thanks so much 

S


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## Gemelli

Hi everyone! New to the forum but seems to be a lot of great advice on here 
We have 1 beautiful 3 year old cat at the moment who's wonderfully playful, we've had her 16 months and been in a new house for 2 months. 
We now want to get her a playmate and we'd love to get a kitten, she did have some when she was young before we got her.

We've chosen one which is currently 10 weeks old from the RSPCA, will be 11 or 12 weeks when we get her. 

Please can we have some advice of ways to introduce them to do our best to make sure they're happy, and roughly how long we should take before we begin to? 

We want to make sure we take our time and do it properly to make sure both kitties are happy


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## spid

Integrating Kittens with Cats


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## SophnLow

My two kittens are 6 and a half weeks old. We took them in yesterday.

Now, I have a problem, if the kittens were well cared for, and in a good environment then I agree that they definitely should stay with their Mother, but if they're not being treated so well, is it not better to try to place them into a home in which they'll be cared for properly. My girls are both flea ridden - I know that cats gets them but I have a friend whos girl had kittens and they've never had a flea on them, likewise when I had a Tom 12 years ago .. Surely it's a mistreatment of a cat if first the family is willing to give a cat away before 12 weeks, and again, mistreatment if the family don't even notice the (very visible) fleas to sort the problem out? Are we not helping these kittens by providing them with the correct care they deserve?

Not trying to be argumentative here, just another point of view.


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## topsycat

Hi, sorry if this has been covered elsewhere but I was wondering is there was a good place to go online to find kittens needing adoption?

I'm based in Northamptonshire. My previous 2 (sadly now just 1 ) were from NANNA but they only rehome in pairs. We're looking to introduce just one kitten to Topsy.


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## milosmummy

hi, 
have you looked at woodgreen animal shelter, not too far, just off A14 , m11 junction


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## topsycat

milosmummy said:


> hi,
> have you looked at woodgreen animal shelter, not too far, just off A14 , m11 junction


Ah yes I forgot about them. I've been looking at their website and there's some real cuties there


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## python134r

1st post, nice to be here......Great guide, in fact I will make it mandatory reading to all who adopt the kittens I foster.

My friend owns animal aid in one county in South Florida and partners with another in the county next store. Regularly space is at a premium at both shelters[no-kill] so I foster 2 kittens at a time for her. Usually littermates at ~6-7 weeks of age and by 12-13 weeks of age I usually get them adopted out together, socialized, healthy little squeakers that they are.

It is very rewarding and my 2 adult cats seem to enjoy them[usually after a week or so]. In fact, instead of an alarm clock I am used to a little "motor" sound next to my ears and having my eyelids licked to wake me up at ~6:00AM :tongue_smilie:

Have a good day all!!!!!


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## Adenovirus

I suffer from asthma and am allergic to some cars, I think long hair. Does anyone know any good kittens to buy as I know my wife and family would love one, but am worried a little about my allergic reactions. Does anyone have any advice, or is it just uniquely personal?


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## spid

The best idea is to go for a proper pedigree as then you know exactly the parentage etc and it means you can visit a breeders house and see if you are allergic to that specific breed of cats. 

My hubby is allergic to cats - especially long haired moggys - but fine with my three adult pedigrees and the 5 kittens we have at the moment. 

Many pedigree cat seems to have different dander or something that means that many people aren't allergic to them. 

I would choose the look of a breed you like, find some reputable breeders in the area and go visit. Watch out for those that don't register or are cheaper than the competition they may not be pure pedigree and then you get into the area of not knowing whether you will be allergic or not.


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## Adenovirus

Thanks so much. I'll give it a whirl! Thanks for the quick reply and not picking me up on the faux pas of saying I was allergic to cars, that really would be inconvenient. What particular breed do you have?


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## tanglewood3

My son acquired a tiny kitten (about 8 weeks old) a couple of months ago after arriving home and hearing a cry when he got out of the car - it was in the bumper section!! It had gone at least 15 miles, including the motorway. We tried to find the owner, including Cats Protection and no microchip, without success. It knew how to use a litter tray and is a really affectionate little thing. Still, it's got a good home now, but not the best way to decide to get a cat.


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## God dog

i love a small kitten but at the end of the day doesnt every one. But beware first time buyers that as cats grow older they become more free and tend to roam further out and become there own person instead of you being its owner.


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## silverlight

Can someone help me? I have been thinking so long and hard about this, I can't think straight!

I lost my dear cat of 14years earlier this year. I didn't think I would ever consider getting another one. I had her before I met my partner, he became very attached to her (even though he used to be a dog person!). He recently is the one that has talked more and more about getting cats.

We spent a long while thinking about what the right situation would be, given you cant guarantee everything, this is just a rough idea of what kind of cat we thought would suit our situation.

We decided that two was better than one. Preferably siblings who were fond of each other, lap cats or at least a calm breed or temperament. We considered older rescue cats initially but recently went to see kittens that were locally advertised. 

The main "concern" is the emotional robustness of the cat, I would like it to be socialised well and confident. My gorgeous cat appeared in my life when I went to rent a new place and she was there, one of two been born while the owner of mum (siamese) was travelling. The kittens were not handled and mummy cat was sadly run over when they were 9 weeks old. My cat was extremely attached to me, I worked from home the whole time she was growing up and probably didnt help teach her about overcoming seperation anxiety!

Anyhow the story goes, that I don't really want to repeat similar, one because that relationship was special and two because I would like more robust cats that are happy with each other and less demanding. I do still work at home though.

My dilemma

My partner has a cat allergy, that calmed down after a few weeks with my cat, but when we visited and nearly rehomed two male black cats at a shelter the other day it flared up.

We visited Birman X kittens today, I have read they have less allergen (females as well) and so far he isnt reacting so much. But, I think the lady is breeding for money, its not that they were unhealthy or she un-kind. Perhaps I am thinking too much about it. She advertised them at 5 weeks, they werent really away from mum that much yet, so we couldnt really tell what their personalities were. She wasnt very forthcoming with regard to weaning, litter tray etc.

So.... the variants are causing problems about what is the best thing to do, for us, for the cats, for the cat community.

Is it considered best NOT to buy from local adverts. I am concerned about this, but perhaps I am seeing red flags, how am I supposed to know the lady is looking after the kittens well and mum etc

Buying from a rescue centre would probably mean the cats have had a rough time and be less calm etc

So if temperament and well rounded emotionally and physically healthy cats is what we would like, how do I find this?

I am not sure there is an answer! Just needing some input on the many pros and cons of each possibility. Thanks


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## spid

If you want almost guaranteed robustness emotionally in a kitten then go for one/two that have been allowed to stay with mum for 13 weeks. This is what most good reputable pedigree breeders do. The extra time spent with mum after initial weaning and toilet training is when she teaches them social skills etc. Visit breeders and see how they bring up their kittens, if they are kept underfoot, how much they are handled etc. 

As you have allergies in the family I personally wouldn't look at crosses and would go for full pedigrees - read my missive up above where I talk about my husbands allergies etc. 

Any questions just ask.


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## silverlight

Thank you for your advice, confirming my gut instinct that the socialisation time period is very important and 13 weeks is now my guideline.

I am quite taken by the Birman cats and with your experience of pedigrees not affecting your husband so much it seems a good route to consider. There are no breeders in my area, not as far as I can see from the Birman cat club. Is there another association I can look at for pedigree breeders or is it a case of searching the internet?

Thank you


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## Gymsharken

Nice post. You have spend your time and effort in posting this. Thanks for every thing. We are looking for some more use full post.


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## Piinky7

Some good advice here. Thankyou


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## mrsdolittle

This is great, i'm buying a kitten this weekend so i'm totally clued up now! thanks


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## aliedie

Hi Everyone,

I am new to this forum and new to having a cat.

I have just paid a deposit for my gorgeous Russian Blue (GCCF registered breeder) and will pick him up at the end of May when he's 12 weeks old. 

What I am really concerned about is his first few weeks in the flat and although i think I've got it planned out (see below) any tips on how to make things easier for him would be greatly appreciated. 

I have bought the basics such as bed, litter tray, food bowls, scratching posts etc. I am told that kittens will play with just about anything (rolled up newspaper for example) but any kitten specific toys that you know work will be greatly appreciated.

I am planning on letting him have dry food throughout the day and 1/2 pouch kitten food in morning and evening. 

I have a small 1 bed flat and am planning on letting him have the run of it. I am taking a week off work to integrate him and then working from home for the afternoons of the next week so as not to be away for too long. I also have friends that will come over to look after him when I can't get out of work. 

I want to have him neutered and mirco-chipped - what is the best age to do this? 

Any thoughts or tips would be most welcome as I want to make sure he has a home he feels safe and comfortable in.

thanks

Al


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## LiveLongAndProspurr

Some good advice here - i too am looking into purchasing a kitten and one of the best things ive been advised so far is not to rush things. Read as much as you can, contact breeders to get a better understanding of availability/price ranges and if you simply aren't sure - don't commit to anything. I feel that if a breeder is serious about selling to you they should be patient, understanding and willing to answer any questions you may have. This is after all a long term commitment and i think knowledge is power. When you get your baby home - let it come to you, they will be very stressed and need to get used to their new environment in their own time and on their own terms. Ultimately wherever and whatever you tend to buy it has to feel right and i guess you'll know when it does - another good indication of whether its the right time is how much you're prepared to spend time preparing! To all those who are thinking about it and all those who are waiting for the day they bring their new friend home - best of luck!


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## outsider

silverlight said:


> Thank you for your advice, confirming my gut instinct that the socialisation time period is very important and 13 weeks is now my guideline.
> 
> I am quite taken by the Birman cats and with your experience of pedigrees not affecting your husband so much it seems a good route to consider. There are no breeders in my area, not as far as I can see from the Birman cat club. Is there another association I can look at for pedigree breeders or is it a case of searching the internet?
> 
> Thank you


I breed and had plenty of time to watch the process of their socialization, forgive me, I have a slightly different opinion, I mean you should not have to worry if it is a bit less than 13 weeks. No matter how well breeder socialized the kitten (and the other cats around) you may wish to follow different ways in your home. With an example. My cats are free to sleep in my bed, they are mostly pets, I am not happy if they taste into my cup or plate but do not feel this to be the end of the world, let them jump to the table, etc and even can go outside to a secured garden. Other people more fussy (or afraid or infections) and eg. do not have the garden (kittens enjoy gardens very much). According to my experience their personalities and even customs around the age of 13 weeks are final or almost final. If their new environment will be significantly different from previous one, kitten will struggle to adopt it quickly and smoothly and you will struggle because eg. kitten upset, unhappy and rather choose your bed than litter-tray and reason is not that it was not taught to use litter but a kind of revenge, a sing that it is unhappy and takes longer to win its heart. Because of it I think the best age for change environment is around 11-12, 10 the earliest if kitten well developed enough. Of course if its breeder insist keeping 13 weeks you must accept this wish, I am a foreigner, but I saw that this is the accepted / usual custom here.


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## spotty cats

outsider said:


> Of course if its breeder insist keeping 13 weeks you must accept this wish


Over here it's got nothing to do with what the breeder wants, it's against the rules to rehome a kitten under 12 weeks of age. 
BYB's/unregistered breeders will rehome at 8-9 weeks because they have no rules to follow and generally don't care about the kittens welfare.


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## Figaro

An interesting thread thanks. Geez things have changed over the years! I've always had cats and when I moved out I got my very own kitten, free from a friend of a friend, looking back she was far too young to be taken away but I just took the advice from the person giving them away. She gave us no trouble or cost only went to the vets 3 times; to get spayed, to have some blood tests and then sadly to be put to sleep aged 17 a few weeks ago. She was Figaro, my user name. 
Now I await my new addition, ready in a couple of weeks and we're so excited. I wanted to wait til the right one came along: he is a pure white so-called Birman cross (but I have my doubts about that) just a fluffy white fella. This time round tho I'm doing it all differently, he will be chipped, snipped, wormed & fleas, insured, all the toys, collared, groomed, you name it. 
Any advice on the first couple of nights away from mum? My ten yr old son wants him in his room overnight (he is kind and gentle) but I think the mews might distress him but better than nothing. I have a furry teddy hot water bottle I could use to help settle him.?


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## Catleesi

Thanks that was a very useful read. I got a maine coon kitten a week ago and he's absolutely adorable, full of beans and very cuddly  He wakes up every night at 4 am and starts jumping on me wanting to play. He bites quite deep and doesnt let me sleep till its time for me to wake up - what should I do about it? If I take it to another room he starts crying  x


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## spid

Catleesi said:


> Thanks that was a very useful read. I got a maine coon kitten a week ago and he's absolutely adorable, full of beans and very cuddly  He wakes up every night at 4 am and starts jumping on me wanting to play. He bites quite deep and doesnt let me sleep till its time for me to wake up - what should I do about it? If I take it to another room he starts crying  x


I would post this in cat behaviour - it will get lost up here.


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## Becbex

Figaro said:


> An interesting thread thanks. Geez things have changed over the years! I've always had cats and when I moved out I got my very own kitten, free from a friend of a friend, looking back she was far too young to be taken away but I just took the advice from the person giving them away. She gave us no trouble or cost only went to the vets 3 times; to get spayed, to have some blood tests and then sadly to be put to sleep aged 17 a few weeks ago. She was Figaro, my user name.
> Now I await my new addition, ready in a couple of weeks and we're so excited. I wanted to wait til the right one came along: he is a pure white so-called Birman cross (but I have my doubts about that) just a fluffy white fella. This time round tho I'm doing it all differently, he will be chipped, snipped, wormed & fleas, insured, all the toys, collared, groomed, you name it.
> Any advice on the first couple of nights away from mum? My ten yr old son wants him in his room overnight (he is kind and gentle) but I think the mews might distress him but better than nothing. I have a furry teddy hot water bottle I could use to help settle him.?


When I first got my kitten I used a microwavable teddy and hot water bottle in his bed to act like a litter buddy for the first couple of weeks to settle him at night time. This seemed to work really well and he settled in to his new home quickly, hardly mewed at all


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## ForeverHome

dharma66 said:


> Many people think that keeping cats indoor only is cruel. But there is a counter argument that letting them roam free is cruel. The average lifetime of cats allowed to roam free is a little over two years! For indoor cats, it's somewhere around 15 years...


I think you'll find that 2 years is for a strictly outdoor cat, and that is from birth so includes stillborn kittens and everything.

The average lifespan for an indoor/outdoor cat is less than an indoor only but nowhere near as low as 2 years.


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## zedder

I have chosen to keep my two indoors due to my location right next to a busy road with a history of cats being knocked over.however I know outdoor cats have a great enriched life and display more natural behaviours which makes me feel slightly guilty about it.


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## ReeRee

Been thinking of buying a cat, found this really helpful. thanks


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