# Difficult to train Beagle puppy



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the group and have joined as i need help!! I have a 6 month old male Beagle called Basil who he is a much loved member of our household but he is also ruining my life :scared:

We first got him from a breeder when he was 8wks old and after a couple of weeks of going to the toilet wherever he felt like he mastered the art of going on the puppy pad/newspaper laid out in the kitchen. That seems to be the only think he is consistently good at. 

Looking back I realise how naive we were when we got him. I had read some thinks about how difficult Beagles are to train but stupidly i thought as i had grown up with dogs and had a Springer Spaniel puppy in my teens, how hard could it be??
I think we've have been taken in by his beautiful looks, big eyes and floppy ears. Who can resist that?

Don't get me wrong, i love Basil to bits but he is becoming increasingly stubborn as he gets older and seems to think he rules our household. He is obviously now a lot bigger aswell which makes controlling him even harder.

He does have his good moments and when he is tired he becomes very docile and cuddley (some would say clingy!)

I think the first thing i need help with is toilet training. As i said before, he only goes on his puppy pad now and will go when he is out for a walk but still insists on going on his pad and sometimes comes in from a walk, only to go straight to his pad for a pee. It is so frustrating!! I know that if i stop putting the pad down then he wil just continue to go in the same place!

How do I get rid of the puppy pad and get him to go outside all the time?

There are so many other things i need help with when it comes to training Basil, for instance walking to heel on the lead, dealing with separation anxiety, obeying commands etc.

He still doesn't sit or get down when told and it can be really embarrassing if visitors come round as we obviously have no control over him.

Any help that anyone can offer us would be so greatly appreciated!!

Thanks
BM


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

A dog training class might help


----------



## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

I would start toilet training right from the beginning as if he is an 8 week old pup again I think. Take away the pads and take him out every hour or so or whenever you see any signs he needs to go (guess you definitely know those by now!) and after playing, sleeping etc. When he goes outside, praise and treat; if he goes at all inside just completely ignore it and clean up the mess with a specific cleaner to remove residual pet smells. I would imagine it will take a while and you will need to be very persistent given the amount of time he has been toileting indoors for.

As for all the other problems, do you / did you go to training classes at all? Maybe they would help?


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

Have you tried putting the puppy pad outside?


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Thank you for your suggestions. He doesn't go to a training class as yet as I was trying to get him to master the basics at home first but as this isn't working I am planning to start taking him to a class in the area. 

Thank you for the advice on the toilet training, I will start that today. So if he goes to the toilet in the house, where the pad was, I shouldn't scold him? Just ignore it?

I'll keep you posted on our progress 

Thanks again

BM


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

I haven't tried putting the pad outside - do you recommend this? What about if it's raining? As it so often does in Swansea!!

BM x


----------



## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

Yes I would ignore any accidents inside but go mad with praise when he goes outside 

If it's raining then the pad and dog just get wet; the idea of the pad outside is so that the scent is still there, Basil is more likely to want to toilet somewhere he has done previously.


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

BeagleMumma said:


> Thank you for your suggestions. He doesn't go to a training class as yet as I was trying to get him to master the basics at home first but as this isn't working I am planning to start taking him to a class in the area.
> 
> Thank you for the advice on the toilet training, I will start that today. So if he goes to the toilet in the house, where the pad was, I shouldn't scold him? Just ignore it?
> 
> I'll keep you posted on our progress BM


You trained him to go there so ignore it. Just keep an eye on him when he is in that area



BeagleMumma said:


> I haven't tried putting the pad outside - do you recommend this? What about if it's raining? As it so often does in Swansea!!
> 
> BM x


Put his pad outside and take him to that the same as you did when you first trained him He has a fur coat for when it's raining.


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

At 6 months old he is also getting into the teenage stage where everything can become a battle of wills. Find a training class, I like the KC good citizens. Go and watch a couple of sessions and make sure you are happy with the methods used before you join.


----------



## snaps (Jan 21, 2011)

Without wanting to start an argument or depress anyone I have heard that Beagles can be difficult to train.

I know two Beagle owners. One has tried really hard with everything especially with recall traing but has now given this up for the moment because he is so hard to get back so now he is kept on a lead. The other Beagle lives with a large lively family plus cat and does exactly as she likes! 

Both are lovely dogs, loyal and beautifully tempered but definitely wilful in a playful sort of way.

I know two Beagles isn't much evidence but both owners said they knew what they were letting themselves in for but couldn't resist etc etc!

I think all training is hard and ongoing but I do also think some breeds are easier/harder to train - in some things - than others.


----------



## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

snaps said:


> Without wanting to start an argument or depress anyone I have heard that Beagles can be difficult to train.
> 
> I know two Beagle owners. One has tried really hard with everything especially with recall traing but has now given this up for the moment because he is so hard to get back so now he is kept on a lead. The other Beagle lives with a large lively family plus cat and does exactly as she likes!
> 
> ...


I do agree that different breeds can be harder to train than others...I would think that you just require greater reserves of patience, persistence and imagination.

Kilo is hard to train in terms of being very wilful and independent and becoming bored quickly with repetitive behaviours, so I make sure that I mix up the training and find ways to keep it interesting, also I incorporate it into his daily life as much as possible so that he has to work for everything. The key was that research and his breeder forewarned me that the breed was extremely intelligent but capable of extreme stubborness; the OP also says that she was aware that a beagle would be hard work....

It is certainly worth going to training classes as the OP is intending to, instead of just accepting bad behaviours as a 'breed thing'.


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

snaps said:


> Without wanting to start an argument or depress anyone I have heard that Beagles can be difficult to train.
> 
> I know two Beagle owners. One has tried really hard with everything especially with recall traing but has now given this up for the moment because he is so hard to get back so now he is kept on a lead. The other Beagle lives with a large lively family plus cat and does exactly as she likes!
> 
> ...


They're not the easiest but I have had 4 or 5 pass gold and that is good enough for most owners


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

The puppy pad is now out in the back garden. I took Basil outside to show him and he seemed very interested, sniffing every inch of it but no toileting on it as yet.

Thanks for the encouragement Dogless - I have read that Beagles are harder to train but i totally agree with you that with perseverance it can be done. Basil is certainly not going to get away with bad behaviour because of his breed.
Watch this space...

Everyones advice on here is very helpful, thanks.

I took your advice Hawspot and found a KC Good Citezens class in the area and so Basil and I start Puppy school tomorrow evening 

The woman that runs the class seemed very nice when i spoke to her and said that they already have a Beagle bitch in the group so it will be interesting to chat with her owner and perhaps she may have some tips for me.

Everyones advice on here is very helpful, thanks.

Keep the suggestions and encouragement coming, i feel this could be a long process!

BM x


----------



## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> The puppy pad is now out in the back garden. I took Basil outside to show him and he seemed very interested, sniffing every inch of it but no toileting on it as yet.
> 
> Thanks for the encouragement Dogless - I have read that Beagles are harder to train but i totally agree with you that with perseverance it can be done. Basil is certainly not going to get away with bad behaviour because of his breed.
> Watch this space...
> ...


You are welcome...Kilo isn't a Beagle BTW but I don't think any breed should get away with bad behaviour.

Although it could be a long process as you say, you have made significant inroads just today in moving the pad and booking training classes :thumbup:


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

True enough 

With regards to training Basil to walk to heel - does anyone have any suggestions? At the moment he is awful on the lead about 80% of the time, he pulls, constantly swaps sides that he's walking on and generally tries to run into the road. He is also very nosey and so if people are walking past he will try to drag me over to them and jump up. It's strange because if someone approaches him when we're out, he cowers behind me!?

It makes taking him out for a walk a rather unpleasant experience!

A friend suggested that i buy a Halti - do these work?

As always, all suggestions welcome


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I'm new to the group and have joined as i need help!! I have a 6 month old male Beagle called Basil who he is a much loved member of our household but he is also ruining my life :scared:
> 
> ...


I would get rid of the puppy pads in the house, it just confuses them and gives them the message that its the plae to go. Take him out instead every 30/45 minutes, when he starts to go, give at a name, later you can use this as a toilet cue, and even get them to pee on command. When finished lots of praise and treats, chicken, hotdogs, cheese are usually high value ones they love.

If he has accidents clean it up with a speial pet accident cleaner, as any smells left encourages going in the same place. Dont tell him off it can make them nervous about going in front of you, and likely to sneak off to do it.
Look out for circling sniffing and scratching usuallly signs looking for somewhere to go. Get him ut quick then. They usually need to go after drinking eating, play, and sleeping.

At night, if he within hearing and sight then when he wakes ot stirs then take him out. I used to sleep downstairs for the first couple of weeks, to do intensive training and take mine out, you could if you dont want to do that set an alarm and take him out that way a couple of times, if he is not going through the night at the moment.

Another thing to consider is perhaps crate training him for his bed. Usually a dog wont soil his bed or surrounding area. This is an aid to toilet training only and he will still need to to be taken out.
If you have never crate tained though, seek help on how to do it as done wrongly it can put them off the crate and it will fail.

Hope this might help


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Thanks Sled dog - all great ideas. 

I am thinking that the puppy pads were a mistake now too. Oh well, you live and learn. 

With regards to the crate, we do have one and that is where he sleeps. 

Perhaps we aren't using it correctly as he does wee in there sometimes and i can't figure out why as i was told that he wouldn't do that in his bed?

I hope i haven't hindered his development by not crate training correctly?


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> Thanks Sled dog - all great ideas.
> 
> I am thinking that the puppy pads were a mistake now too. Oh well, you live and learn.
> 
> ...


Its probably because he is used to weeing on the pads, Also he will need to be taken out inbetween in the night. Maybe he cant go for the whole night.
Perhaps try taking him out in the night. If he is in there too long and really needs to go then he has no other alternative. Just going to do you a post on walking to heel. Already did it got to the end and Ive wiped it, so going to do it now.


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

At 6 months he is going to be going through the stroppy age all dogs do it.
They start to try to assert their freedom and push at their boundaries to see how much they can get away with.

Part of the pulling when out walking starts with over excitement indoors.
If he starts getting hyper and over excited when you get the lead out. Then just put it away again, sit down and ignore him, and keep repeating it until he gets the message. When he is calmer, get him to sit have tasty high value treats, cheese, chicken, hot dogs are good. If you hold the treat just above his nose and move it backwards, his nose and head should come up and his head should go back as you move it backwards and you should find his bum will go down, as his bum is going down say sit, and as he sits say it again,
then praise and treat. You can build this up to a wait too, once he realiably sits, by following with the command wait, once he sits and repeat wait then give the treat. extending the time before giving the treat, so the wait becomes longer. (hope this makes sense) Then once sitting put his lead on.

You next need to teach him door manners, Get him to sit again at the closed door, once he is sitting and waiting, then open it, if he goes to bolt out, then shut it and keep reapeating, until he will sit with the door open. Then tell him to wait while you go through and invite him to follow you out.

If he starts to pull whe you are out, then stop dead and dont move. Call him back make him sit, then step off again, if he pulls then keep reapeating the whole thing. He should learn pulling doesnt get him where he wants to go.

Another exercise similar is when he pulls, instead of stopping dead, just tuen round and walk in the other direction, he should get to the end of the lead,
wonder what the hell is happening and then have to follow you back the way you have turned. If you do this every time, it should be another way to send the message pulling doesnt get him where he wants to go.

I have found that practising actually walking to heel is sometimes best at home first, by having a treat in your hand down by your side, so they have to walk along side you. using the word heel and repeating it as you are walking along with them showing interest in the treat. Stopping ang giving a treat every so often, before stepping off with a new treat in your hand, saying heel and reapeating it so they make the association.

Hope this might help


----------



## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

Certainly Beagles are very difficult to train at recall because they have such a high prey drive, but for every day basics, given the right methods it should be possible to do, though may take longer.

I think it is a big mistake to train a dog to go inside the house on pads or newspaper, because then you have to retrain him to go outside. Start as you mean to go on and don't make work for yourself.


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

Set yourself realistic targets. There is nothing in KCGS gold or in your post that you shouldn't be able to achieve.
Accept from the start that because of breed, character, experience and natural ability some will progress faster than others. It's not a race
Make sure the whole family sticks to rules. Things are much easier if you are all on the same side.
Dogs are gamblers they understand always and never much better than sometimes. So he always sits to greet people, he never runs through the door when you open it


----------



## theevos5 (Dec 24, 2009)

Agree with getting rid of the puppy pads,you need to stay outside with him when you want him to wee,wait until he does and then make a fuss like never beforeand then say wee and treat him,if he starts to have an accident indoors,get him outside as quick as possible and then when he goes treat again.It will eventually click if he think there is food at the end of it.If he does have an accident in the house,use a solution of persil soap powder and water this should help stop him,remarking.
Regarding the walking to heel,we used a halti and Alf hated it,spent most of his walks trying to get it off his face and eventually learned to back out of it and slip it off(who said Beagles were stupid?)we use a slip lead,it costs a fiver and we walk Alf to the park on it,it takes 10 mins there so we do a strict heel walk and he is perfect now,I started off by holding it quite tight so that he was right next to me,but he has got it sorted it and walks on a loose lead.He knows the command heel and trots along next to me looking at my treat pocket with those gorgeous eyes.
The problem we made with our beagle was we were totally besotted with him and allowed him to get away with murder You have got to this point and recognised that there is a few problems and that is a great thing to do,alot of people would have given up by now and thats why Beagle welfare has so many dogs in their care.The vet said to me that we have to learn to be as stubborn as a Beagle and that is the best bit of advice I have had.If I want him to sit I make sure he sits,not give up as that just teaches him that you don't really mean what you say.Be consistent always

By the way the pic of Basil is gorgeous x


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

theevos5 said:


> The problem we made with our beagle was we were totally besotted with him and allowed him to get away with murder You have got to this point and recognised that there is a few problems and that is a great thing to do,alot of people would have given up by now and thats why Beagle welfare has so many dogs in their care.The vet said to me that we have to learn to be as stubborn as a Beagle and that is the best bit of advice I have had.If I want him to sit I make sure he sits,not give up as that just teaches him that you don't really mean what you say.Be consistent always
> 
> By the way the pic of Basil is gorgeous x


I can totally relate to this, i think Beagles invented that puppy dog look  and who can resist it? What the vet said to you sounds like valuable advice. I will definitely strive to out-stubborn Basil. 
It's great to talk to someone else who has a Beagle. It's nice to hear that you've been there and come out unscathed  I had a look at your album of Alfie, he is lovely!! It inspired me to make a little album of Basil and our cat Roxie, have a look...

Thanks for all the walking advice Sled Dog, tomorrow we are going to start practicing your suggestions. 
For today we have moved the puppy pad outside and booked puppy training classes. A good start I think 

Thank you all for your help.

Keep the suggestions coming x


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

I think the other two things you were worried about were the possibility he was developing separation anxiety and control of him when visitors were coming.

At the moment if you are allowing him to be with you all the time you are there and he is also following you about, it makes it harder for them to cope on their own. So you need to start giving him time on his own initially when you are there.

If you set up the area where you want him to stay when you are out,with his bed some chews, and toys, that you keep especially for those times when he is to be left. Kongs that a hollow solid rubber toys are good you stuff them with food, you can use wet dog food mixed with a few goodies, like chicken,cheese, biscuits and bigs of ham, to make last longer you can freeze if before hand, although when training him for the shorter periods to start with,you probably wont need to freeze it. Treat balls are good too, you can fill them with kibble and set it to distribute pieces here and there as he plays to keep his interest. Things like an old tee-shirt or jumper you have worn left in his bed can help as it has your smell to re-assure him (providing he isnt the sort of dog to rip and ingest fabric. A radio left on low on a talking station can help as the sound of voices s oothes them. Another good thing is a DAP dog appeasing pheromone plug in diffuser, it is an artificial version of the pheromone mum emits to calm and soothe pups and its keeps them calm.
I would start with giving him some rest time ideally after a walk when he is tired and more likely to settle (In fact any time you have to leave him for real a walk is better first gets rid of any excess energy too) I would do this several times a day even for 10/15 minutes at a time at first, just get him used to coping. Dont make a big thing of leaving. Try to return when he is quiet and calm, just let him out and dont fuss him straight away,just leave it a minute or two before you do. Keep to the same routine every time he is left and just build up the time scale a little each time.

When visitors come, No doubt because he is so cute, they probably make a fuss and talk to him straight away. They usually get overexcited with visitors coming anyway and attention straight away tends to make them even more so, to the point they can get so hyped they dont listen. If you keep a tin of treats by the front door, take him there on a lead and get him to sit before the visitors are allowed in, pre warn them to totally ignore him and walk in staight through and just sit. Then bring him in, still asking them to ignore him.
Get him to sit a distance away, and only when he is calm,then take him up to be introduced. but still tell your visitors to ignore him. If he carries on sitting,then they can then give him a treat and gently fuss him. Once he seems to realiably be able to control himself and greet calmly then, try it later without the lead. If he really gets hyper and wont stop at all even with the ignoring, then put him out for 5/10 minutes in his area, then he is calm then bring him in and try again. and keep doing it until he is calm.
Eventually they usually learn that, calm polite behaviour gets treats and attention and barking and attention seeking doesnt.

Hope these other things to try might help.


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Thanks for the advice Sled Dog. I have tried some of the above. I often put him in his cage in the kictchen with toys, chews etc and we always leave the radio on as i have heard that this helps.
At night he is fine and will sleep soundly all night. If, however I do this in the day when I am home, or going out he will bark and howl incessantly for at least 10mins, sometimes longer. It is driving me mad and i worry the neighbours will complain. I don't know why he does it, I do everything I can to make sure he is comfortable and has things to entertain him. I will look into buying a kong tho - good advice.

With regards to the visitors issue, i will try your suggestions. He definitely can't get any worse when people come round!


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> Thanks for the advice Sled Dog. I have tried some of the above. I often put him in his cage in the kictchen with toys, chews etc and we always leave the radio on as i have heard that this helps.
> At night he is fine and will sleep soundly all night. If, however I do this in the day when I am home, or going out he will bark and howl incessantly for at least 10mins, sometimes longer. It is driving me mad and i worry the neighbours will complain. I don't know why he does it, I do everything I can to make sure he is comfortable and has things to entertain him. I will look into buying a kong tho - good advice.
> 
> With regards to the visitors issue, i will try your suggestions. He definitely can't get any worse when people come round!


Someone on heres dog started whining in the night and I suggested the DAP diffuser, and they had one from when theirs was a pup with some left in it and found it helped, so it might be worth a go. You can get them from vets and pets at home but usually cheaper on line. I still use one for times of stress and things like fireworks. I get mine from Vet-Medic - the same medicines as your vet at consistently low prices. if you want a look. First one I got was double the price at the vets. One of the uses is separation anxiety too.


----------



## BeagleOesx (Oct 9, 2009)

I would echo what the others have said and would reiterate you have to be firm with your commands, even when trained if you give him a command make sure he follows thro with it. Beagles are stubborn but as long as you are firm & consistant it is possible to train them 

You have to have a lot of patience when training but if you are prepared to spend the time it will come. I took Harvey to training classes when we first got him and the trainer basically said that 'you won't get a beagle to listen to you or follow commands because of his high prey drive' but we proved him wrong and I can honestly say he walks beautifully to heel and if we are somewhere secure & let him off he comes back when recalled. Training him to do most things was easy as he is so food driven he will basically do anything for a treat, so use treats to your advantage.

With regard to your other thread about neutering, we had Harvey neutered when he was 12 months old and besides the health benefits from having it done he did calm down greatly. He also hasn't tried to be as dominant as he used to be.

It isn't easy but it is rewarding and due to Harvey's 'magpie' tendancies my lounge always looks tidy:lol: You will learn never to leave anything lying around if you don't want it to be beagle napped!!

Have fun with your Beagle:thumbup:


----------



## tiny (Feb 1, 2011)

Beaglemumma - its hard work but perserverance does pay off. my beagle pup is only 12 weeks old and can wee on command. she was paper trained by the breeder but as soon as i brought her home i started taking her outside as per the advice of sleddog and the other forum members on here. the 1st week was a nightmare - out every 20 mins and up 3 times during the night but it has paid off. i still take honey out every half hour when she is awake during the day but she goes from around 10pm every night until 6am now and is dry every night. she has been crate trained and sometimes when i have to put her in during the day she crys and whines a bit but if i ignore her for 5 or 10 mins she drops off to sleep. if you give in and let your beagle out when he howls he will catch on quickly - you really should try to sit it out for a bit n see what happens. i give honey a puppy kong with cream cheese in it or a crunchy stick in her crate and she will happily chew away for a bit. when im out walking i stop when she pulls - she is still very young but is getting the message already although i am going to get her a premier easy walk harness. please dont be fooled by the big hound eyes as beagles are notoriously stubborn and very intelligent - treat him like a spoilt child and be consistently firm and he will learn. good luck.


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

BeagleOesx said:


> It isn't easy but it is rewarding and due to Harvey's 'magpie' tendancies my lounge always looks tidy:lol: You will learn never to leave anything lying around if you don't want it to be beagle napped!!
> 
> Have fun with your Beagle:thumbup:


I can totally relate with the 'magpie' tendancies, Basil has these too. He'll swipe anything he can from the coffee table or dining table. In particular pens and notepads seem to go missing. Earlier today I came into the living room to find Basil under the dining table eating a packet of chewits that he had 'found' on the computer desk. You know he knows it's wrong because he hides under the table with his loot. Cheeky bugger!


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

tiny said:


> Beaglemumma - its hard work but perserverance does pay off. my beagle pup is only 12 weeks old and can wee on command. she was paper trained by the breeder but as soon as i brought her home i started taking her outside as per the advice of sleddog and the other forum members on here. the 1st week was a nightmare - out every 20 mins and up 3 times during the night but it has paid off. i still take honey out every half hour when she is awake during the day but she goes from around 10pm every night until 6am now and is dry every night. she has been crate trained and sometimes when i have to put her in during the day she crys and whines a bit but if i ignore her for 5 or 10 mins she drops off to sleep. if you give in and let your beagle out when he howls he will catch on quickly - you really should try to sit it out for a bit n see what happens. i give honey a puppy kong with cream cheese in it or a crunchy stick in her crate and she will happily chew away for a bit. when im out walking i stop when she pulls - she is still very young but is getting the message already although i am going to get her a premier easy walk harness. please dont be fooled by the big hound eyes as beagles are notoriously stubborn and very intelligent - treat him like a spoilt child and be consistently firm and he will learn. good luck.


Thanks for your advice Tiny. I am impressed that you have done so well training your beagle at such a young age and somewhat embarrassed that we are so behind. I wish i had known about this forum earlier on. Ho hum! Saying that tho - after just one day of training using suggestions from very helpful people on here, we have made progress!! I am feeling encouraged and tomorrow we start puppy school so it can only get better. (I hope) 

Any further advice you have, don't be shy


----------



## momentofmadness (Jul 19, 2008)

When I go out for a walk with mine.. the first thing I do when I get back is go straight to the back door and let them out for a few mins.. Bobby usually has a mega wee.. and so do the girls.. even though they have had a couple on a walk..  I reckon if I didn't put them out I would then have to wear wellies to get through the pee in my kitchen.. 

And I would suggest like other go to puppy class..


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

With the magpie tendencies, as much as a pain as it is it is best to puppy proof as much as you can by removing as much as you can so its not a temptation to steal things, Also they do cotton on that nicking stuff is a way of getting attention and it becomes a game and a learned behaviour you dont want. Teaching the leave command is always good. Ive done this by teaching a reliable sit and wait first, waiting until the wait is for a good while before you give the treat. Next step is to put the treat on the floor,cover it with your hand, tell him to wait again, then still with the treaat covered, say leave repeat the leave, then uncover it and tell him to take it. You should be able to build it up, eventually where, you can do sit wait, leave, uncover it wait, step back and then the take it. That is something you can try later as each stage has got to be done individually building it up and not going on to the next step until each is realiable.

Another thing you can teach later is the Drop command.Ive always taught mine through play. If you use a toy or ball he likes, but is not a great favourite, you have more chance of getting him to give it up. I throw the toy or ball. Try to get him to bring it to me by holding out a really smelly tasty treat (remember beagles in particular use there noses) if the comes with the toy/ball offer the treat close to him nose, if and as he drops it, say drop, repeat drop, then give the treat with lots of praise, then you can repeat the whole thing again. He should learn that giving up things can be rewarding.

I have found with mine that a couple of 10/15 minute training sessions a day mixed with a bit of play really helps. It also seems to tire them out as they are using energy and their brains, but at the same time is enough to train but not too long for them to get bored. Its good you are going to training, for socialisation plus you will be constantly learning new things. Which you can then add and practice to your training sessions at home.


----------



## theevos5 (Dec 24, 2009)

Sled dog hotel said:


> I have found with mine that a couple of 10/15 minute training sessions a day mixed with a bit of play really helps. It also seems to tire them out as they are using energy and their brains, but at the same time is enough to train but not too long for them to get bored. Its good you are going to training, for socialisation plus you will be constantly learning new things. Which you can then add and practice to your training sessions at home.


Completely agree,every night around 5pm,we have a play session,with the ball launcher,outdoors,and this is purely to exercise Alfs body and mind,we do the drop command and now when he pinches something,instead of a scene from benny hill,I say drop,he drops and then gets his treat!So much easier,but again 6 months ago i would never have believed that he would be that calm and responsiveThis also settles him for the night and we have a clam relaxed dog of an evening:thumbup:


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

theevos5 said:


> Agree with getting rid of the puppy pads,you need to stay outside with him when you want him to wee,wait until he does and then make a fuss like never beforeand then say wee and treat him,if he starts to have an accident indoors,get him outside as quick as possible and then when he goes treat again.It will eventually click if he think there is food at the end of it.If he does have an accident in the house,use a solution of persil soap powder and water this should help stop him,remarking.
> Regarding the walking to heel,we used a halti and Alf hated it,spent most of his walks trying to get it off his face and eventually learned to back out of it and slip it off(who said Beagles were stupid?)we use a slip lead,it costs a fiver and we walk Alf to the park on it,it takes 10 mins there so we do a strict heel walk and he is perfect now,I started off by holding it quite tight so that he was right next to me,but he has got it sorted it and walks on a loose lead.He knows the command heel and trots along next to me looking at my treat pocket with those gorgeous eyes.


So far after just 2 days of toilet training, Basil has been amazing!! He has been going outside as if he's been doing it all his life and has not once tried to go in the house where his puppy pad was (she says with crossed fingers) I left the backdoor ajar earlier and he even went out of his own accord and had a wee (i spied on him from the window)

With regards to the dog walking we are currently using a collar and an extendable lead and i don't think it's very good to train him with. Do you suggest we take his collar off for the time being and get a slip lead then?


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Sled dog hotel said:


> Another thing you can teach later is the Drop command.Ive always taught mine through play. If you use a toy or ball he likes, but is not a great favourite, you have more chance of getting him to give it up. I throw the toy or ball. Try to get him to bring it to me by holding out a really smelly tasty treat (remember beagles in particular use there noses) if the comes with the toy/ball offer the treat close to him nose, if and as he drops it, say drop, repeat drop, then give the treat with lots of praise, then you can repeat the whole thing again. He should learn that giving up things can be rewarding.
> 
> I have found with mine that a couple of 10/15 minute training sessions a day mixed with a bit of play really helps. It also seems to tire them out as they are using energy and their brains, but at the same time is enough to train but not too long for them to get bored. Its good you are going to training, for socialisation plus you will be constantly learning new things. Which you can then add and practice to your training sessions at home.


Are there any good educational dog toys i should get? I have taken your suggestion re the kong and am going to get him one but just wondered if there's anything inparticular I should buy to play with him with and to use as a teaching aid. I would hate to think that he was being understimulated so want to get some things to keep his brain active.

As always, any suggestions welcome


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> Are there any good educational dog toys i should get? I have taken your suggestion re the kong and am going to get him one but just wondered if there's anything inparticular I should buy to play with him with and to use as a teaching aid. I would hate to think that he was being understimulated so want to get some things to keep his brain active.
> 
> As always, any suggestions welcome


I find with my youngest a good old fashioned tennis ball works wonders. The treatball I mentioned earlier is good, because it keeps interest as it releases a treat here and there. So that is good for them to amuse thereselves. My youngest also likes her kong wubba (Think you can get several sizes) its bascically like the hollow kong you stuff underneath, with a squeaker in it and covered in thick canvas fabric, It also has thick canvas tails like an octopus,for want of a better description. Good for throwing, a game of tug, or just for them to mouth and chew. To get their prey drive going, there is skeneeze, basically fake fur, skinned squirrels with tails (sorry about the gory description) those I think have a squeaker too. Quite useful to distract dogs with prey drive from the real thing. Seen them used in training for recall, but I havent used them on my lot as would probably dismantle them in no time.
There are other puzzle toys on the market that they have to use there brain to get treats out of, maybe another thing you could use when you need him to amuse himself. Chewing is a great destresser and wind down for dogs, so the other thing I would add is a selection of chews. Dood for when you want a bit of P&Q and might help with his magpie habits too.


----------



## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> So far after just 2 days of toilet training, Basil has been amazing!! He has been going outside as if he's been doing it all his life and has not once tried to go in the house where his puppy pad was (she says with crossed fingers) I left the backdoor ajar earlier and he even went out of his own accord and had a wee (i spied on him from the window)
> 
> With regards to the dog walking we are currently using a collar and an extendable lead and i don't think it's very good to train him with. Do you suggest we take his collar off for the time being and get a slip lead then?


Or a collar and normal lead. I also have a headcollar (Dogmatic) for the occasions when I do not have time to work on loose lead training so that Kilo never learns to pull on a normal flat collar. I do loose lead training at least twice per day and try to do it wherever we go, however he comes to work so if I need to get to a meeting etc I don't always have the time everywhere we travel.

The way I do it is on normal walks, collar and lead. On walks where there is a little time pressure I put on the Dogmatic and attach one end of my training lead to Kilo's normal collar and one end to the headcollar. I walk him using his normal collar by keeping the end attached to the headcollar slack...if he pulls I then take control of his head...once the lead is loose again, I slack off the headcollar end and so on.

I was a little despairing only a few weeks ago about the pulling, but about a fortnight or so ago something just clicked and Kilo just understood. He is now really, really good at walking with a loose lead, the headcollar has only been on once last week


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Sled dog hotel said:


> I find with my youngest a good old fashioned tennis ball works wonders. The treatball I mentioned earlier is good, because it keeps interest as it releases a treat here and there. So that is good for them to amuse thereselves. My youngest also likes her kong wubba (Think you can get several sizes) its bascically like the hollow kong you stuff underneath, with a squeaker in it and covered in thick canvas fabric, It also has thick canvas tails like an octopus,for want of a better description. Good for throwing, a game of tug, or just for them to mouth and chew. To get their prey drive going, there is skeneeze, basically fake fur, skinned squirrels with tails (sorry about the gory description) those I think have a squeaker too. Quite useful to distract dogs with prey drive from the real thing. Seen them used in training for recall, but I havent used them on my lot as would probably dismantle them in no time.
> There are other puzzle toys on the market that they have to use there brain to get treats out of, maybe another thing you could use when you need him to amuse himself. Chewing is a great destresser and wind down for dogs, so the other thing I would add is a selection of chews. Dood for when you want a bit of P&Q and might help with his magpie habits too.


Thanks Sled Dog. I have just ordered a treat ball online and my partner is off to get a Kong after work so i'm looking forward to watching Basil playing with them. Will let you know how we get on with them.

With regards to chews, we already buy him dentastix and raw hide bones and he absolutely loves them to death. He will hapilly sit for an hour or more chewing on a bone - much to the relief of me and my finace


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

BeagleMumma said:


> Thanks Sled Dog. I have just ordered a treat ball online and my partner is off to get a Kong after work so i'm looking forward to watching Basil playing with them. Will let you know how we get on with them.
> 
> With regards to chews, we already buy him dentastix and raw hide bones and he absolutely loves them to death. He will hapilly sit for an hour or more chewing on a bone - much to the relief of me and my finace


I spend a fortune on chews especially having 3 dogs, but god its worth every penny!!


----------



## BeagleMumma (Feb 13, 2011)

Basil and I are off to puppy school shortly - Wish us luck!! 

I will let you know how we get on. 

Let's hope he's not the oldest and worst behaved puppy there!!


----------



## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

Remember, whatever he does they have seen it all before


----------



## fulwood (Feb 12, 2011)

Beagles!!!!!! My friend had them for years. I've seen one at dog club develop over the last year, and someone's suggestion about perserverence is so right (so don't feel too deflated). They're a bit of a breed on their own. Seemingly miles behind other breeds for months in training, she just came into her own around 9 months. Some humans have a learning style like that you know? Someone can tell me something, and what they've said goes up in the air, then sometimes months later, it comes back down and docks in my brain. The beagle at dog club was very difficult to train. I think part of it is to do with their nose being so powerful, scents are an over-riding attraction, and when they're young, it's hard to tame this developing instinct. I know it's hard with family life and jobs and all, but setting your mobile phone to go off every hour whilst your dog sleeps next to you in a crate, lift him out, go straight outside, saying nothing, put him down, say "go be good" and praise immediately he does a wee, lift him up, go straight to bed, and do it all again for a week or so (gradually extending the time) might hopefully resolve your problem? I know I might sound like a bit of an idiot, but ideally, people should book a week or two off work to coincide with picking a new pup up. I don't think training pads are a good idea myself, because you're just letting dogs think it's OK to do it indoors, though I know in some situations (flats, etc.) this has to be the case. Your goal should be to never let your dog do it indoors. It's amazing how quick they learn if you make sure this doesn't happen, at least 80% of the time in the beginning, and if they do ...boring as it sounds, just pick them up, say nothing, and take them outside.


----------



## lexie2010 (Jun 7, 2010)

oh its all so familiar!!! i was just like you Beaglemuma, thought how much harder can a beagle be (last dog my folks had when i lived at home was beagle springer cross)..... Lexie is now 11mths and she has tried our patience beyond belief, but what we have learned and its been said by others on here-dont let her win, at anything! whether its a battle of wills or a game of tug! we got her at 8weeks and she was spayed at 6mths. we went to dog classes for weeks that were of no benefit then found KC good citizen one and she completed the puppy foundation in December and is starting the Bronze tomorrow with same trainer, which i find great.
luckily toilet training her was easy, no paper just watched her like a hawk and brought her outside and praise praise praise, now working on peeing on command. her walking on a lead is pretty good if i keep her focused on me, using treats in my left hand at thigh level and saying "close". i use a halti(although i think the canny collar is better from what iv heard) and a regular lead, except on the beach/forest she is on a flexi as i dont trust her recall yet. she is a divil for stealing things and lifting things when out walking so the "leave it" command is in constant use and she understands it. 
everyday is still a schoolday for us and her. we dont let her through a doorway without sitting, she doesnt get anythng without a sit and a please. she goes into her outside run after a walk to chill out as i found she would be all wound up with adrenaline and she needed the quiet time, she loves her run anyway as she treats it like her house (doesnt toilet in it eventhough its BIG). with visitors the way we do it at the mo is she is in her crate to get used to voices and level of disturbance (and to keep her away from plate of biscuits!!) and then she is allowed out on a house line so that she can potter about and i can keep her under control without having to grab her, we are still working on her relationship with my mother in law as that caused biggest problem with visitors as she is quite jumpy and overbearing-not good if visitor isnt a dog person but time patience and calmness is getting there.
so just to let you know you are not alone, it takes an incredible amount of time and patience but i can see we are FINALLY getting somewhere with lexie and you will too with Basil, we are hoping that she will mature into the loving family dog that we grew up with ourselves and then all the worry and upset and stress will be worth it!


----------



## lilybeagle (Jun 28, 2011)

Hello all, 
A little question from a newbie! Our beagle is now 13 weeks and I am really struggling with toileting. I think we made our first mistake by purchasing puppy pads but she does use them well. She won't wee outside but does on most occassions poo outside. It is difficult to move her puppy pad closer to the back door as we are keeping her in the dining room which leads into the conservatory where the cat sleeps. We have tried taking a wet pad outside and she has wee'd on it once or twice but I really feel frustrated by it all. The worst thing is that she wee's in her bed! I thought dogs didn't wee where they sleep - yeah right! I have washed it and disenfected it to get rid of the smell but she continues to do it. HELP!
P.S. Thanks for all the other advice on this thread and sorry OP for hijacking your thread. x


----------



## Helbo (Sep 15, 2010)

To the OP - well done for sorting out a training class. Getting face to face advice from a trainer and other puppy owners is so fantastic you'll wonder why you hadn't gone sooner 

Its really refreshing to read an owner who says 'ok - i didn't realise how hard it'd be, here's what I'm going to do about it...' rather than depressing posts with defeatist attitudes saying if they don't improve in a week they'll be rehomed! 

I've asked a lot of questions on here whilst raising my Beagle, and i've always got some really practical good advice. So keep posting and we'll keep trying to help!! 


To put my 2 cents in:

* I'd get rid of the puppy pads altogether and start again. If you see the signs (sniffing in a circle...) take the pup out for 3 minutes. Say your toilet word repeatedly and excitingly during a wee and praise them like mad for their success, but if nothing happens after a few minutes go back inside. Watch them like a hawk!! If they start to wee inside disrupt it - even if you have to pick them up, and try to get them outside. Say the toilet word and reward if they finish toileting outside. A half success is better than none. Ignore all mistakes. Clean with a special spray to get rid of the marker to your dog - from a pet store or use Bio washing powder mixed with water. 

* Walking to heel - my puppy class tried everything with Charlie!! In the end I had to lead him along with a treat - keeping his eyes on me and the treat whilst slowly moving forward. Every so often we stopped, he got the treat to eat and I got another out. Its really tough to keep their noses up off the floor!!

* Beagles are hard and the trick is to be as stubborn as they are, be patient, and never let a good deed go untreated 

* Your Beagle may be coming up to the teenager age - I've found plenty of exercise, lots of chew toys (Kongs, Nylabones, Rawhide), keeping an even temper, and lots of little training sessions keeps Charlie out of trouble - mostly! 

Maybe look into a book that will take you through the basics step-by-step. I used Gwen Bailey 'A Perfect Puppy' who shows how to teach sit for example in easy steps with pictures...or perhaps someone can recommend another book?


----------

