# How to use a long line properly



## diefenbaker (Jan 15, 2011)

Hi,
Dief needs better recall with distractions... so I've invested in a long line... and I know in general terms he's meant to come back to me to be released to go play... but exactly how am I meant to facilitate this ? For example today... when we reached the field.. he obviously went to the end of the line. I called him back and he seemed a bit confused and sat down. What should I do next ? Stand still and wait to see if he returns or gently try to reel him back ?


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## cravensmum (Jun 28, 2010)

You just need to use whatever recall methods you were using without the longline,either treats or toys to start with.

If Dief has no recall you will be starting from scratch,so that is trying to make yourself more interesting than whatever he is doing.

If your just trying to reinforce training that you have already done then carry on that way,you are just keeping Dief safe while you are training.

Remember to start off with,don't set him up to fail,recall him when he is looking your way or coming your way.

When he does that 100% of the time start recalling him when he is doing something and his focus is not on you.When you get that recall to 100% he should be ok to go off lead again.

This could take a while.

Hope that helps.


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## diefenbaker (Jan 15, 2011)

Well... he's good most of the time... I'm trying to break the bit when the distractions are high and he goes deaf. So what to do when he's deaf ? Should I use the line to gently reel him in then praise/reward or just wait until he realises that to get what he wants he needs to come back to be released ? Or will the latter happen after I've done the former a few times ?


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## cravensmum (Jun 28, 2010)

diefenbaker said:


> Well... he's good most of the time... I'm trying to break the bit when the distractions are high and he goes deaf. So what to do when he's deaf ? Should I use the line to gently reel him in then praise/reward or just wait until he realises that to get what he wants he needs to come back to be released ? Or will the latter happen after I've done the former a few times ?


This is where you could get conflicting advice,and I don't know which is the best as mine is still on a longline,but he is a hound so it might take a while longer for me.
Some say reel him in as he should not have the opportunity to ignore the recall,you won't have to reel him in forever hopefully.
The other option is to run/walk fast in the opposite direction calling him,waving your arms and generally making an idiot of yourself to get his attention.You have to get his attention somehow,have you tried a squeaky toy,it doesn't work with mine but it might with Dief.


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## edidasa (May 7, 2011)

diefenbaker said:


> I know in general terms he's meant to come back to me to be released to go play...


Hello.
he should be coming back to you for food first. then as he knows that, you can use a toy. but only if he can bring the toy back to you (or you only get 1 repetition). you can use 'freedom' just as long as he 100% understands the command. i.e. he will come back to you in a non-distracting environment 100% and quickly.

the idea of long line:
one method of reeling them 'makes' them come back. personally, i don't like this, i dont use this way because it MAKES the dog come back, + the recall is normally slow... however for some dogs, it can work.

the other way of using a long line is by popping/jerking it if he doesn't come back. for example, you tell him 'COME' - if he responds, great, treat etc. if he doesn't respond, & he knows what he means (because you taught him and trained him 2000+ times) I would say NO, POP, and ask him to come back again.

HE avoids the pop by returning to you.

The next time you call him, he won't want to get popped, so he'll return.

the dog has to understand HOW to avoid corrections and turn them OFF (Which is too much to put into a post because there are lots of things to consider and prepare) I would advise going to an exp. trainer if you can find one who can do this. maybe ask the trainer 'how he/she' would train it first.

If you dont FIRST teach him HOW to avoid corrections from you, he'll associate corrections with your recall (i.e. calling him = jerked; rather than disobeying you = jerked)

very small difference, but very important.

hope that helps...


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## RobD-BCactive (Jul 1, 2010)

Personally I would practice with long line in low distraction area like enclosed garden first. Food likely to work there. If you expect to use long line much, I'd prefer dog in a harness with a top clip, to reduce leg entanglements; double (front & top) harnesses would be ideal, with front & top used in situations requiring close control.

As a general principal, safety comes first, then fun with performance improvement a by product. I never did anything the dog would not like on a line, or lead, to avoid problems later when requiring to leash in public.

Having a second person, who can hold your dog, whilst you stroll away and every dog I saw, was struggling to re-join owner. Then say "Rover", "Here!" assistant releases and Rover then races back to handler, at which point rewarded. I use hand/finger targetting, rewarding being able to touch the collar. Later on with solid basic recall, you can worry about auto-sits and such, but personally the formal recall seems like a fetish thing. I just want me dog, with me and focussed on me, or what I have planned next.

If you don't have someone to help, then I'd work on a good "Wait!" command, wander off with line, then say "Here!" and run away from the dog. I never ever got far 

Then I use line in an open grass area, with relatively few dogs or ppl about, keeping away from paths or areas of cover like trees, which might hide "bandits" that interfere with the training. I'd just do a training session, as if it were in enclosed garden, mixing in play. The line is in my view simply to stop the dog running off out of control. I pass the line from hand to hand, to pay out, or take in slack for safety.

I would only use a small amount of the length at first, until your dog is calm and under good control, in the situations you have around you. Avoid holding the end, you don't want your dog to learn to lunge at speed, and then hit a stop, like all those dogs you see around on Flexi leads.

Once I trust the dog, against the distractions, I'll let go of the line, and let it drag it behind, whilst continuing. Having a long tail that would go past you, buys you time to react should dog bolt, but unless you made a mistake, you will now be training and playing with a totally focussed dog, effectively off leash.

Arriving at the area on line or leash, where you intend to recall and release dog for some fun, lets you reinforce the work you put in. I simply would wander on from park gates, play/train a little, then recall and release for a more exciting game, letting the dog run.

As a backup, having a "Super toy!" which the dog rarely gets, may be a squaky ball, that you play with with someone else guarding it from the dog, may be a great attention getter, when you need it and convenient to carry around.


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