# Sticky  Housetraining your pup or older dog



## CarolineH

Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!


Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it. 
Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.  
Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs. 
If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool: 
Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside. 
At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.

 
Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often. 

Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.

Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs. 



*Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


----------



## krismtl

It was relatively easy to housetrain our rescues - and now we rarely have any problems...have a funny story on this though...

Not too long ago was watching a movie (trying to finish it even though I knew the dogs probably needed to go out for a wee) and when it was done I went to the kitchen and saw Nero sitting in the corner with his ears back the way he does when I'm angry about something...very strange as as far as I knew he hadn't done anything wrong!

I looked around to see if there was a mess around or anything he might have done and nothing. Strange. I kept walking and checked the bathroom. Nothing. Very strange. Just as I was about to leave the bathroom I moved the shower curtain back and sure enough there was a clear trail of pee in the bathtub!! Have apparently inadvertently trained my dog to pee in the shower if he needs to go in the house!!

Crazy dogs they really do the funniest things sometimes


----------



## CarolineH

Sorry krismtl, I completely missed your reply yesterday! 

Yes that is amusing and just shows that dogs do work things out for themselves sometimes! My cat has the run of the house at night but his cat litter box is in the spare room? If the spare room door is accidently shut, he will go to the toilet in my bath over the plug hole! I like to think that's because he knows I can then scoop it up, pop it in the toilet and then wash the bath out afterwards.


----------



## ad_1980

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> *Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.[/*COLOR]
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> 
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*




Thread is really good hon 

I might just add that i wish someone would've told me about the small dog thing BEFORE we got Mika. That being said though, this boy is a year old and he still fails to stay dry overnight! my patience is wearing thin. I'm almost tempted to build him a little house, buy him the warmest jumper ever to keep him warm overnight and just leave him outside lol! (I wouldn't really do that) So if anyone can give me ideas on how to stop this dog peeing in my house overnight it would really help. He's fine being left alone during the day he doesn't do any business in the house then. Its night time/early morning before we wake up that we have a problem with!


----------



## ad_1980

i meant to highlight the toy breed sentence lol!


----------



## leashedForLife

hey, addy! :--)

i am not doubting the frustration or hassle,  but has he had a THORO vet-check? 
anatomical problems can cause urinary issues, not addressable by B-Mod; a dog whose bladder adheres to the abdominal-wall 
cannot compensate for that abnormality. illness is another possibility, a low-grade chronic bladder-infection is difficult 
to Dx. an occult urine-spec, CULTURED - not just peeked-at under a scope - may find hidden-nasties lurking... :eek6:

Q #1 - is he desexed? 
if not, i would snip him ASAP; if he is already, then skip it, :lol:

is he living with chronic stress? noisy or unpredictable environs, changing cast of characters, recent House-Move!, 
new family member, fave-person left for college, other new/disturbing circs... ?

can U crate him? IOW is he crate-trained + comfy in a solid-walled, preferably airline-approved shipping crate? 
a soft-sided bag will not work; he will chew-out or if he pees,  it goes thru the bag to carpet, anyway. 

also, is he leg-lifting or does he leak? 
dogs / pups with urinary incompetence will dribble while sleeping, or even while walking from point to point... 
this can be a UTI, attached / tilted bladder, stress-induced (excitement, anx...), or several other things. 
medication for urine-leaks while sleeping, or even for stress-triggered leaks, is very inexpensive to try, and often solves 
the problem. 
stress-induced (fear) or excitement-triggered leaks, are often best tackled by both: meds to reduce the size 
of the problem (the emotional spike), and B-Mod to change the dogs emotional response from stress/upset/arousal, 
to tolerance or even pleasure. 
* these meds may be temp: antibiotics for a bladder or kidney infection, etc; or  lifelong -  lack of muscle-tone 
in the sphincter and overnite leaks while sleeping, and so on. :thumbsup: the chronic-condition meds are not costly. *

if he has had a really-thoro vet exam and is supposedly perfectly healthy + normal, 
then i would go with one of Two barrier-methods: 
crate the dog at night, or belly-band him At All Times when unsupervised. 
either an airline-approved shipping crate, or an all-cotton, washable belly band... :thumbup1: 
if U opt for belly-bands, i would get (or make! ) Two - one is in-use, one clean + dry spare. a cheap UNscented 
NO-deodorant panty-liner/pad is EZ, peel + stick, belly-band on dog, only remove it *after* hes OUTSIDE the house... 
_* On-leash, please - *_* taking-off whilst wearing it means he will not leak, :yikes: he will DRAIN * HIS * BLADDER 
into the pad/belly-band...  which can urine-scald the poor tyke. :crying: *_ waah-haaa-waaa... _

if he has emotional issues - readily stressed, easily excited, reactive, etc - 
DAP pump spray can be a terrific help. 
so can Rescue-Remedy LIQUID - i personally now use BOTH at the same time; they each address separate 
emotional areas, and there is zero interaction or overdose... :thumbup: 

 re Rescue-Remedy ** Pastilles ** (pills) - WARNING 
the candies contain Xylitol - an increasingly Common! fake-sugar which can kill dogs; blood-sugar values plummet, 
+ they can be comatose in minutes - their kidneys can fail. :yikes: *Tic-Tacs have KILLED more dogs via Xylitol 
than any other item. Toothpaste + Chewing-gum are other risks... * Read * Ingredients! on ANYTHING that 
U give to the dog, this %$#@! is showing up in more + more items, every day -  from salad-dressing to muffins... 
* cheap @#!$%!* non-food #@[email protected]!... :mad2: * 
that it was safe last-week, does not mean that it still is, this week... 

all my best, 
--- terry


----------



## Dougal

Dougal is 5 months old next week and accidents are very rare now (touch wood!). He wasn't crate trained and living in a flat made things a bit tricky, but I just took him out as much as possible and - if I caught him in the act - I did tell him off.

He used to sleep in the kitchen, and would pee overnight on a puppy pad - now he sleeps in my bedroom he goes through the night - or makes it clear he needs to go out.

It's not just he knows he's supposed to go outside (I think!) - he's grown a lot in the last month and seems to have much better control now. Peeing on the carpet the moment he stops playing hasn't happened for a while


----------



## leashedForLife

* excellent - Good puppy! > click! < and a treat... *

*Good owner! humans have to make the opp to do-Right happen! :thumbup: 
a 2# box of virtual-chocs for U... * :laugh: 
any puppy-pics?

wistfully, 
--- terry


----------



## shortbackandsides

cant we just go and buy some pampers and cut a tail hole in???:lol::lol:save the time and trouble!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## CarolineH

shortbackandsides said:


> cant we just go and buy some pampers and cut a tail hole in???:lol::lol:save the time and trouble!!!!!!!!!!


LOL You're naughty!


----------



## sequeena

PMSL. Shouted at Luna one day (long day, lots of family stress) and all she did was half hour later, bold as brass squatted and peed right in front of me without a care in the world.

Almost peed myself laughing


----------



## Nicky09

I'll be needing to go back over this now lol. Because she's so small when we're up with the babies during the night I'm going to take her out as well but apparently she's at least partly housetrained.


----------



## Leah84

i so wish my oh had seen this before telling muffin off  she`s too scared to go in front of us now regardless of how long we stay outside so we`re having to hire someone to train her and part of me thinks she`ll never be trained. i wish he had listened to me in the first place instead of claiming he knew best as he always does 

you1ve wrote a really good guide for new owners


----------



## ad_1980

i wonder if closing of this room where mika pees in would help in stopping him wee in the same place every day - or at least wee inside full stop at night?

What do you lot think? If i closed off the conservatory area you reckon it would stop him messing?


----------



## marcbuck

Hi - hoping you might help?

My 3 year old Boxer has recently (a month ago) had an operation on her bladder, as she has congenital defects which were causing her to wet the bed. We still give her propanol to help her bladder sphincter at night, and it seems the bed wetting has stopped!

However, despite daily walks and regularly letting her out (including just before bed for a good 5 minutes), she is unable to control herself overnight. Not only does she wee, but also messes during the night too - and some nights it is either one and not the other.

The vet said that it is likely she is having to re-learn what it feels like to need the loo, and that this has caused her to take a big step backwards in her housetraining. She also said that as dogs don't differentiate between one kind of toilet mess and another, this may have caused the messing too. This has led to some frustration in the family, as we have small children and cannot easily tolerate a dog which cannot keep clean in the house.

I understand it is not the dog's 'fault' - blame is of no interest to me. We absolutely have to prioritise the children, and so the reasons for the incontinence is valid only as part of the process of solving the problem. Ultimately, coping with incontinence that cannot be cured is not an option, so I hope we can do something with this to solve it once and for all.

Any ideas, please?


----------



## CarolineH

marcbuck said:


> The vet said that it is likely she is having to re-learn what it feels like to need the loo, and that this has caused her to take a big step backwards in her housetraining. She also said that as dogs don't differentiate between one kind of toilet mess and another, this may have caused the messing too. This has led to some frustration in the family, as we have small children and cannot easily tolerate a dog which cannot keep clean in the house.


Go right back to teaching basic housetraining as if she were a puppy using the guidelines as set out in my original post. I am afraid that there is no other quick fix and in as much you would have to be patient and tolerant of an older child who reverted to bed wetting, you will have to grit your teeth and tell yourself that accidents will happen and that they clean up. Have a cleaning kit to hand, bucket, disinfectatnt, kitchen roll etc and do your best for your girl. This is not her fault after all. It's hard I know but there's no other way of doing it bar inserting corks and that just is not going to happen.  Stay in touch with your vet and get her checked regularly too so that he/she can detect any setback problems early and deal with them.


----------



## marcbuck

Thank you! Advice all received and will follow.

Happy New Year to you all :smile5:


----------



## leashedForLife

why not crate her at nights? 
if she does spring a leak, at least it is contained, not all over the floor.  
--- terry


----------



## marcbuck

The whole point of the surgery was to stop her wetting the bed - if we put her in the crate (again - we trained with it as a pup), we won't know if it is the older problem or the new one.

Thanks for the input


----------



## StBernardMummy

Fantastic thread! :thumbup1:

Come at a perfect time for me and as a new puppy owner I think this is some of the best advice I've read on puppy house training. I think it should be "pinned". Really pleased to have read this too. 

I don't tell Murphy off for having accidents in the house and tend to ignore it completely and clean it up straight away. Must warn though you use A LOT of carpet cleaner and floor cleaner. Paper is ok but for wee's it just seeps through onto the carpet anyway so doesn't really solve anything. 

Anyway..GREAT thread  x


----------



## Purrrrfect

There you go.


----------



## CarolineH

Purrrrfect said:


> There you go.


Thank you very much.


----------



## SamP

Great advise thank u


----------



## Stunning Selene

I must say I have never heard of Odor-Kill. Will have to try it.
Thanks for the link.
Have always used Simple Solution which contains proteolytic 
enzymes. 
I use it mainly to clean up the kitchen ceramic floor after my
little girl had a field day with marrow bones.

I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.


----------



## kittysoo

My house training problems started when l got my last dog Katie. The boys were fine but when she came along it all went to pot. Still having the odd accident which is pretty sannoying so back to basics for us.


----------



## jadus2003

great advise!defo going to follow!


----------



## caz2436

my bichon is now one and house trained. the problem is that she sleeps in a crate and wakes the whole house up about 5 am to be let out and then goes back for an hour sometimes more then decides we need to get up as she is fed up on her own. it makes no differance what time she goes to bed. dont get me wrong i dont want to stay in bed till dinnertime but this is to early and it is every day help please


----------



## new golden

I recently purchased a golden retriever female she is now about 10 weeks old i have had her a week and a half I tried to put her in the crate at first the crate was way to big but i sectioned it off so she just had enough room to lay down no matter how much i calm her down the min i head up stairs the whinning starts and moves into a bark that does not stop no matter how long i let her be i bought her a bed and put that in my room i put her on that bed and she will lay right down and go to bed (maybe play with a toy ) if she does get off it while im awake i simply say (back on your bed ) and she returns and lays right down she is a great dog knows commands and listens very well and comes on command but she seems to be having a very hard time grasping the fact of either letting me know she needs to go out or goin to the door and in some cases does not even do the pre potty ritual she will just be walking and stop and pee i have started crateing her during the day a little and while im cooking showering ect. after reading some posts i have started taking her out alot more while im around and when she goes i praise her and give her a treat which she is extremely excited about everytime we come inside after we go out shes shows her excitment for the reward am i goin about this right i am trying to hold my patience with her seems in how she seems to urinate in the house more when we are wake and around then when we are sleeping and i leave her un crated and un suppervised if i dont get up around 1:30 and 6 AM she pees i have talked to a freind that has a black lab only one day older than my golden and he is great in the crate a wakes ppl up if he needs to go rather than just goin ?? i know its only been two weeks but the lab not messed in the house once in 3 weeks ? please help shes is a great dog


----------



## thebing

I've just posted a thread asking for help and then read this one. Some good advice but to be honest i think i am doing pretty much everything there having already house trained two dogs.

I love our puppy Snoopy so much but i swear our other two were easier to house train than this monster. Funny as she is the cutest most loveable puppy and i know i need patience but after clearing up 3 poos and a wee at 6.00am i need help!


----------



## ad_1980

thebing said:


> I've just posted a thread asking for help and then read this one. Some good advice but to be honest i think i am doing pretty much everything there having already house trained two dogs.
> 
> I love our puppy Snoopy so much but i swear our other two were easier to house train than this monster. Funny as she is the cutest most loveable puppy and i know i need patience but after clearing up 3 poos and a wee at 6.00am i need help!


aw you got a puppy called Snoopy!!!! aww  you wouldn't be charlie brown by any chance, would ya


----------



## CarolineH

A general comment as I am very tired today and cannot get my head round individual queries;

Patience is a virtue and also a necessity in housetraining. People expect young puppies to be house trained too quickly? They are all individual animals, just the same as we are and they don't read textbooks. Carry on don't expect too much too soon.

Also, small toy dogs I am afraid have tiny bladders and bowels to go with their reduced stature and do seem to take longer, making 'mistakes' through to adulthood and sometimes beyond. Leave them on an easy to clean floor and have a clean up kit ready to hand. Carry on being patient and reward all good behaviour. We choose to have smaller dogs so sometimes we have to bite our lips, accept our lot and get on with it. I know, I have an old JR X who still has the odd mistake. It's no problem when you have the time and you are organised.


----------



## sequeena

7 months and Luna isn't dry yet  We're down to one pee - but then again because she's so big it's like a river :lol:


----------



## CarolineH

sequeena said:


> 7 months and Luna isn't dry yet  We're down to one pee - but then again because she's so big it's like a river :lol:


<passes you a lifeboat>


----------



## sequeena

CarolineH said:


> <passes you a lifeboat>


Thanks  Sometimes I really do think I need one especially after she's had a drink


----------



## GFB

I hope you don't mind I have moved my post here. I had it on another thread and it wasn't really appropriate. So I am learning my way around just like Millie our new puppy.


Well here I am and although joined awhile ago have not kept posting - so really new to this site!

I am not new to having a puppy though and have had four others all who have passed on now and we were left with our ten year old JR. Lucy had the company of the other dogs and was on her own for several years. We had our daughter's dog whilst she was ill last year and Lucy, so we thought missed him, as she had started playing again rather than lying around until it was time for a walk. (We have a huge garden and paddock so plenty to sniff around at.)

So three weeks ago we were told of a 14 week old puppy, a Christmas gift for four children (youngest 4) who was happily given away. The words were, try and it if she doesn't settle, we will have her back.

I discussed this with our 'animal behavourist' vet nurse as I was reluctant to take on another bitch thinking it wouldn't be good. (Puppy is a cross JR/Yorkie maybe). Her advice was no problem Lucy has been spayed and now settled in her ways and she will let the little one know what buttons to push.

So we have her and she is a sweety and more lively than any puppy I have had and they have all been terriers. She thinks she can climb over all furniture, jump away from you if she thinks she is being picked up, looks for corners to do her toilet, etc. So in a way I suppose she is like a rescue dog and her 8 weeks at Christmas into a lively household is showing - possibly.

The positive things are she is intelligent and is already learning where to go to toilet and on command. Naturally we are getting a few accidents, she is really good at night and we keep her and Lucy separate for the moment so there is no change for Lucy.

We are making her get off the chairs, etc and sit and trying to show her that she sits and waits to be picked up. She has quickly learnt that when she goes to toilet outside she gets a treat.

Now - Lucy is having to stay awake more than she has done for ages and has, so we think, enjoyed some really good playing sessions.

We do however keep getting some 'looks' for Lucy as if it is time she went back now.

We use a cage for Lucy to travel in the car in and have a smaller one for puppy. She has settled quietly to go out in a car (with Lucy) but yesterday I took her to the vet on her own and whilst I was getting back in the car and she couldn't see me you would think someone was strangling her.

I think we had the opportunity to have our other dogs just 6 weeks earlier than her age and they quickly adapted to travel, being picked up, mouth looked at, etc. Oh! Yes - at vets had a job to keep her still - talk about wriggle.

Both my husband and I are at home all the time so she has our full attention and I think even in the three weeks the toilet training, full time, is paying off. Hopefully she will learn that she doesn't have to be worn out and tired to be picked up. Maybe she learnt to try and get away from children or play rough.

So any tips would be very much appreciated?

P.S. Lucy now thinks she should play with the ball, throw things around and chew sticks if she finds one. So not sure how to interpret this behaviour - jealousy or feeling young again.

I must say at times I look at Lucy and say I was doing this for you....

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by GFB; Today at 12:39 PM.


----------



## zantewed

I have to say toilet training a 2 year old is much easier than a puppy! i'm at my wits end. who ever said a dog wont toilet on their bed was fibbing!

This thread is great and i've been givin many a pointers. poppy is 12weeks we've had her for just over 3weeks now 1st of all we started off with the paper which i then read was a bad idea so stopped that, i take her out as often as possible and she goes fine no probs. Then she'll come in a do something else and i just want to scream!!!!!!!!! someone suggested crate training her which we have done now for 3 nights 2 of which she has poo and wee. the 1st night was my fault i didnt get up to let her out the 2nd night was fantastic i was sooo happy she was clean and dry i got up at 3am to let her out. and then last night more poo even tho i let her out and she did 2 poo's and a wee!

where am i going wrong?


----------



## flosskins

ok I've read all this and been following it for 6 months, but I am now back at work full time so unable to be there all of the time. My puppy (8 month old cocker spaniel) has not pooed in the house for many months, but peeing is another matter!

she is put to bed at about 10.30m after spending a while in the garden where it is ensured she has peed before coming back in. she is then put to bed - if in her crate she does not pee but if left out she does - I have been hoping to do any with the crate as her lovely big comfy bed does not fit into it so she has to fold herself into a smaller bed. But if not crated she will pee on the floor. 

when left during the day (for about 4 hours normally) she pees on the floor. doesn't seem to matter how long she has been out for in the morning (often up to 2 hours) or how long she has been in the garden just before we leave - supervised to check she does pee - she normally pees on the floor, and then walks around in it making the most disgusting mess. I don't like to leave her in her crate during the day as I don't feel its fair on her - i got her knowing I would have to leave her during the day so the mess is my problem as far as I am concerned!

However, in the long winter evenings or weekends she would happily go 4 hours or more without peeing if we are home. Now i don't think it is anxiety as she is happy to see us but not stressed, and often she is just waking up when we get there. I have had neighbours peek through the window at her and done the same myself before she knew i was there when I got home and she always seems quite happy, chewing a bone, wandering around or having a snooze. so why is she still peeing and what can I do to stop it?

Why can she hold it all night in her crate or all evening when we are home but not when she is alone or out of her crate? without getting cross with her how can I teach her that what she has done is wrong and needs to be done inside? somebody please help as I'm starting to get frustrated with her not improving at all.


----------



## Granary19

Hi

I have an 18 week old Patterdale/Lakeland cross (male). I have two adult dogs, reared from puppy, and I've followed the same training pattern - building up the areas of the house he has (including crating) and gradually reducing the areas of puppy pads/newspaper where it is acceptable to pee/poop in the house (they have a dog flap and unrestricted access to the garden). Up until about 10 days ago, Finn was very good and was regularly going dry through the night as well as toileting outside and on walks. 

Suddenly, he's regressed to weeing on the kitchen floor and pooping right inside the front door ............. honestly, could not pick a worse place when I'm trying to get back into the house :eek6: !

He doesn't do it when I'm there and if I suspect he may want to go (after sleeps, first thing in the morning, etc) - I say "outside" and he will go straight out and toilet. Over the past three days, I've got back from work to find poo and wee just inside the house and on the kitchen floor. It's very difficult not to be angry, but I have been clearing it up without telling him off.

I'd appreciate some help - do I need to start again and provide paper/toilet places around the house ? Perhaps I've expected too much from him as he did seen to learn housetraining pretty quickly. It feels like some sort of "dirty protest" that I'm leaving him in the house although he's never shown any anxiety around being left. I do praise and treat him if he poops outside or on a walk - so he knows what he should be doing !

Thank you !


----------



## ladyb00

We have only had our puppy Albert for just over a week but he seems to be getting the hang of having to go to the toilet outside and indoor accidents are few. The only problem is that he will go to the door to go outside and just sit there without making a sound so I'm constantly having to check if he is there. If I don't get there in time he will mess on the door mat. Will he eventually start making sounds to go out or am I doing something wrong?

I would also like to agree with all who suggest putting your puppy crate in the bedroom. First night we had him home he went in the crate in our bedroom, whined for about 5 minutes so I put my head towards the bottom of the bed and once he could see / smell me he was off to sleep. Now he goes into the crate and is off to sleep straight away. And boy can he snore!!!!


----------



## lizzyboo

ladyb00 said:


> We have only had our puppy Albert for just over a week but he seems to be getting the hang of having to go to the toilet outside and indoor accidents are few. The only problem is that he will go to the door to go outside and just sit there without making a sound so I'm constantly having to check if he is there. If I don't get there in time he will mess on the door mat. Will he eventually start making sounds to go out or am I doing something wrong?


We have had our pup for nearly 3 weeks now. He doesnt make a noise either when he wants to go out, like Albert, he will just sit at the door so i have to check he isnt there crossing his legs :lol: He has a few times wee'd by the door cause i havent seen him there... so like you any answers would be good x


----------



## leashedForLife

YouTube - Emin's pouched rat toilet trained (Matisse) 
this pouched-rat was Not trained to flush, to conserve water.


----------



## leashedForLife

from a fellow-trainer - 
Crating Your Dog


----------



## vixie010

Hi all 

I wonder if anyone can offer some advice please? I have an 9 month old flat coat retriever and whilst she is pretty much house trained during the day, she will still not go through the night . Bed time is about 11.30 and getting up time is 7 am.

She is not crate trained and lives with an adult dog who is completely house trained. She will go on the newspaper next to the back door but I cannot get her out of doing that. The funny thing is, she still goes to the toilet the minute I take her out for a walk first thing. 

Any tips greatly received please. 

Thanks


----------



## leashedForLife

vixie010 said:


> ...9-MO Flat-coat Retriever... she is pretty much house trained during the day,
> (but) she will still not go through the night . Bed time is about 11.30 and (we) get up ~ 7 am.
> *She is not crate trained...* She will go on the newspaper next to the back door but I cannot get her out of (that habit).
> The funny thing is, she still goes to the toilet the minute I take her out for a walk first thing.


i will probably be beheaded for this - but thats why PAPER-training is not a good idea.  
first U teach them to void indoors -:crazy: -- then U have to teach them its NOT o-k anymore.

i would take away the paper; i would also lift her water, ASSUMING that she has water all day freely, AND that the house 
is not 80-degrees at night; i would take up the water about 8:30-pm, as bedtime is 3-hrs later.

i would either crate her in the bedroom (my preference), 
or put her in a SMALL ex-pen in the bathroom, away from her former potty-spot (which i presume is in the kitchen?), 
or baby-gate her in a small room with an easy-clean floor...

AND in addition, i would set the alarm for 3-AM for a week or so, to get her out once to pee. 
IMO its unfair to simply cut her off, and expect her to cope successfully - she needs a transition period.

happy B-Mod, 
--- terry


----------



## vixie010

Thank you for that, will give it a go and I look forward to seeing 3am for a week:eek6:


----------



## pika

Oh I forgot to say thank you for the thread, its helped me greatly teaching Skye, she is now nearly accident free at only 7 weeks 5 days old, she does have the occasional misshap but its expected 

Fantastic thread! :thumbup:


----------



## blsfla

I have a problem, rather Frankie has a problem. Frankie is a Lhasa Apso I gave to a friend last Christmas; he was rescued from an animal rescue society. He is about 3 years old and was supposedly house trained. It quickly became apparent that he was not, but training began and for a while seemed promising. However, he has gotten worse, particularly in the last several weeks. He is now fed once a day in the late morning and is walked and put outside often. He seems to defiantly poop and pee in the house, even when being watched. Almost every night lately he poops in his cage once or even twice even though he hadn't eaten since late morning. He has been to his vet for a complete checkup, his cage has been shortened, and I believe almost everything we've read online has been tried. He's a cutie with a great personality, thinks he's a Doberman, but he's in danger of returning to the rescue society if we can't figure this out. We want to make this work, we love Frankie, but we need help. Any thoughts and/or advice is welcome at this point.


----------



## leashedForLife

blsfla said:


> I have a problem, rather Frankie has a problem. Frankie is a Lhasa Apso I gave to a friend last Christmas...


hey, bis! :--) 
so who does Frankie live with? U or Ur friend? 
if its the friend, please have that person join for help direct. 


blsfla said:


> (Frankie) was rescued from an animal rescue society.


 to clarify: 
the dog was ADOPTED from a rescue-org.  ppl who volunteer or work for rescue are very unhappy 
to see pet-owners claiming to *rescue* the dog from a legit-rescue; if he was being abused, please report it.


blsfla said:


> *bold added - *
> 
> He is ~3-YO and was supposedly house trained.
> It quickly became apparent that he was not, but training began and for a while seemed promising. However, he has gotten worse, particularly in the last several weeks. *He is now fed once a day* in the late morning and is walked and put outside often. *He seems to defiantly poop and pee in the house,* even when being watched. *Almost every night lately he poops in his cage once or even twice* even though he hadn't eaten since late morning. He has been to his vet for a complete checkup, his cage has been shortened...
> he's in danger of returning to the rescue society if we can't figure this out. We want to make this work, we love Frankie, but we need help.


please trash the *defiant* labeling - dogs do not use urine or stool to make political-statements.  
when he needs to go, somebody has to be there, NOTICE, and get him out - its that simple.

Q - did he live in a kennel-run or a house, while with the rescue? 
(if not fostered in a home, how long was he kenneled?) 
if he was in a cube-cage or a dog-run, his housetraining deteriorated *because* he was forced 
to void where he lived; if no-one was there to take him out when he needed to go, he had no options.

* please feed the dog 2x, not only once/day; once leads to gobbling, which predisposes the dog to bloat, 
a potentially life-threatening condition, and it causes digestive-problems in general - gas, colic, etc.

* i would treat him like a pup: 
crate him in the bedroom, and set the alarm for 3-AM for at least 2 weeks. 
set an alarm during the day for THREE hours after every potty-trip; 
his 1st is as soon as U get up - U pee, and then he immediately goes out to void. 
TAKE TREATS WITH U to reward every performance, at the time, on the spot.

* if he must be crated while U go out, be sure he is *empty* before U go. 
give him a minimum of 10-mins standing quietly while => he <= walks around U on a 6-ft leash, 
while U stand quietly + watch him sidelong; this is not playtime, petting, nada, its Potty-time.

* like any pup, *every potty-trip must be On-Leash + Supervised - *
U have to be there to see what if anything he produces, AND to reward him. 
*log his voiding:* what time, what volume, any unusual things - straining, diarrhea, pain, etc.

** if he is leg-lifting indoors, i would buy 2 cotton belly-bands, 
and he would wear one ALL the time while indoors - precluding marking, altho he would still be under 
an adult-eye within 6-ft. belly-bands are inexpensive, comfortable + safe; 
line it with a cheap peel-and-press panty-liner rated for overnite, just in case. *
change the liner when damp/soiled or at minimum, once every 24-hours. 
the liner should be UNscented and NO deodorant - plain, simple, safe; skin can break-out from any 
extraneous chemicals in close proximity. he can wear the belly-band while crated, or it can be put on the roof 
(of an AIRLINE-crate which is solid) or nearby if its a wire-cage AKA show-crate.

* he needs to go out after triggers - 
- meals, large drinks 
- active play 
- excitement (visitors, barking at passerby seen thru a window...) 
- waking from a nap

* the indoor-supervision has to be lacking, somehow - 
i suggest UMBILICAL him to the adult at home, using a 6-ft leash; wrap the leash across ones back, 
slip the clip thru the wrist-loop, slide the wrist-loop to whichever side U prefer, 
clip the free-end to the dog... 
OR put on a belt, slide the wrist-loop over the belt, buckle the belt, slide the wrist-loop to the preferred side, 
clip the free-end to the dog. 
now where U go, he goes - and he CANNOT get further than 6-ft away.

*** *the multiple-voids overnight sounds like major STRESS - 
if he is being punished for voiding indoors, please stop that; 
he must feel comfortable voiding on-leash, in front of a human - and he cannot, 
if he has a history of being punished for housetraining-errors. **** 
like it or lump it, every housetraining-error is the fault of the supervising adult-human - 
Not the Dog or Pup.

please consider adding ~Calmatives ~ see this post for what + how-to: 
Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much...

the telegram version of housetraining: 
* be there + get the dog OUT when they need to go; go WITH the dog. 
* reward every right-place, right-time performance. 
* take the dog out after every trigger-event. 
* supervise the dog strictly; they are under an adult-eye within 6-ft, 
OR crated OR penned in a puppy-proof area - no exceptions. 
* LOG potty-trips + voids: what, how much, when he went out.

*edited to add: * no bedding in the crate - 
i prefer airline-approved crates because they are quieter, have solid-bottoms, not leaky shallow trays, and are terrific and SAFE 
for transport; all bodies in a vehicle should be restrained for safety, and a solid burst-resistant crate is the safest for pet-travel.

good luck, and please let us know how he is doing, 
--- terry


----------



## layla15

Can anybody help, Layla is 13 months old and lovely, house trained and crated at night. The problem is I would like to get rid of the crate, it's big, but if I leave the door open overnight after 3 or 4 nights she pee's or poo's in the kitchen. She can easily go through the night when shut in the crate and I make sure she has been out before going to bed. Any suggestions? I was going to shut her in each time she messes and keep her shut in for 3 days and then leave the door open so she begins to associate being shut in with messing during the night.


----------



## leashedForLife

layla15 said:


> ...Layla is 13-MO... housetrained and crated at night.
> ...I would like to get rid of the crate, it's big, but if I leave the [crate]door open overnight after 3 or 4 nights she pees or poos in the kitchen. She can easily go through the night when [crated] and I make sure she has been out before going to bed.


hey, 15! :--) 
when U say _i make sure she she's been Out,_ do U go along with her on leash, to *see* that she actually voids? 
if not, thats my 1st-suggestion: all toilet-trips be supervised, so that U *know* if + how-much + what she voids, 
and When - then U can plan her potty-trips or carpet-access better. 
being there as a witness means U are also there as a cheerleader + REWARD dispenser - 
she has to be rewarded on-site, for voiding at the Right-place + Right-time.

scheduling issues, perhaps?
are her mealtimes mostly consistent? 
are her potty-times also mostly routine?

diet changes? unusual treats?
does she EAT the same foods daily? sudden changes can trigger bowel or bladder irritability. 
do messy-nights COINCIDE with anything - visitors? perhaps her *uncle* gives her off-the-menu goodies? 
does the dog-walker bring their own treats?

crate-sizing
how big is Layla? how big is the crate? 
its possible that the crate is oversized for the dog, and a smaller one would serve better - 
they are often available used, on *Craigslist* or *Freecycle* or other sites.

if U have a wire-crate, i would suggest replacing it with a used *shipping* AKA *airline* crate, 
anyway - the solid-bottom shipping-crates are leakproof, and are very safe for transit [wire-crates are *not!*]


layla15 said:


> I was going to [crate] her each time she messes and keep her [crated] for 3 [nights?] and then leave the door open so she begins to associate being [crated] with [overnight messes].


 do U crate her when U are at work? 
when U go shopping? at any other time - on vacations, visiting family, etc? 
if so, i would strongly discourage connecting Punishment with her crate - 
which is supposed to be her safe-place, not her lets-be-upset place! eek...

i can easily see her beginning to *bark* or *whine* when crated, and that would not IMO be an improvement, 
 far from it! if she began barking or fussing at night, U'd have a major problem.

also, real shipping-crates [as opposed to wire show-crates] are the safest way for a dog to travel - 
if she has an appropriately-sized airline-crate, Big-Enuf to enter, U-turn + exit, and lie-down, 
then i would keep it, by all means - What if U have to leave for a family emergency? 
or move house unexpectedly - or evacuate?

a crate-trained dog WITH their crate can go virtually anywhere, and feel safe - 
a hotel, Grandmums house, a cottage at the beach. *but their crate needs to be a haven - 
not a bad-dog zone.* that only makes being crated stressful, instead of soothing.

all my best, 
--- terry


----------



## leashedForLife

Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much...

it talks about uses, sizing, travel, safe confinement while healing, etc. 
cheers, 
- terry


----------



## layla15

Wow, where do I start, yes I go out with her, praise her and know what she has done.

Mealtimes and potty consistent.

Food consistent, not ever fed except treats for good deeds.

She's a small lab, crate fine for her to get in, turn around etc.

When I'm out she had free run of the kitchen and is fine, I work freelance so am home lots, in and out and often take her with me. I will tell her to go to her bed when she gets over excited, but where else do I tell her to go?

She never barks or whines when in it, travels in the boot of the car fine and otherwise is perfect.....

Will shut the door tonight and for 3 nights and section off the kitchen as it is always at the other end.


----------



## Aquastar

Hi, I've just rescued a lovely little dog, Tootsie. She is a Sheltie x chuahuahua. She's is housetrained but has the odd pee on the carpet daily.
She also won't have a a last night pee in the garden, she just rolls on her back and tries to be cute! She's very stubborn. My collie who's three, I had from a pup and goes on command, so I'm a bit frustrated.
I've heared that small breeds can be difficult?:confused1:

Many thanks
marina


----------



## <3 Oliver

I have tried all your tips on house training and they really worked. Before owning my own dog I was always under the knowledge of scolding and rubbing a dog's nose in his mess. I was a little skeptical of the above training methods but given time it actually worked and he started going to the front door to let us know he needs to go out. 

Oliver is now a year old, and I have had him for 6 months. He still has accidents in the house but now they are in front of the bathroom or in the bathroom, not all over the place. That is a plus i suppose . He will often go in the house when we haven't noticed him standing by the door. And he will go in my mom's house but it is only in one room in the same spot. 

My question to you all is how do I teach him to either scratch at the door, bark, or jingle a bell when he needs to go out and how do I stop him from going to the bathroom in my mom's house?

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## leashedForLife

<3 Oliver said:


> ...how do I teach him to either scratch at the door, bark, or jingle a bell when he needs to go out... ?


* hang the bell on the DOOR-Knob where U go out to his potty-area

whenever U go out, You - not the dog - jingle the bell, smile, LOOK significantly at the dog, jingle again, 
~ open the door... ~ 
after 3 or 4 days of 5 or so potty-trips per day - he should be grasping the concept. 
PAUSE at the door - encourage him to jingle the bell with his nose. 
[teaching him to *target a palm or a wand-tip with his nose* are handy intermediaries - 
hold the palm under the bell-rope, or touch the bell with the wand-tip.] 


<3 Oliver said:


> ...how do I stop him from going to the bathroom in my mom's house?


** keep the dog ON * A * SIX-FOOT * LEASH while visiting mum; he cannot possibly slip-away to void, un-noticed. 
if U are going out of the house, out of the room, or going to sleep, CRATE the dog; 
or if he is not crate-trained, BABY-gate him in a secure, puppy-proof area.

be sure to clean all areas where he has voided with an Enzyme-based cleaner, specifically for pet-waste; 
Planet Urine, Natures Miracle, Pee-be-Gone, etc.

all my best, 
--- terry


----------



## <3 Oliver

Great! Thank you! I'm excited to begin teaching Oliver this new "trick"


----------



## Jem01

Hi my name is Jemma and I'm new to this site. 

We have brother (Jorge) and sister (Jojo) boxer pups who are 6 1/2 months old, we got them at 11 weeks. 

They were crated until approx 5 months old when they outgrew the crate. So they are now left in the kitchen over night and when we go out. 

House training was going really well, until recently when Jojo has started relieving herself. She is doing both poo's and wee's even though she is walked well and taken to the garden before we go out anywhere. It started with night time messes but now doesn't seem to be able to be left for more than 1 1/2 hours without messing (I know its her and not Jorge because their poo's are different and there is no splash around the urine and also when I let them out into the garden when we return home Jorge goes off and relieves himself whilst Jojo just stands there looking at me). 

I am going back to work next week after having the summer holidays off and it seems that Jojo has got worse since finishing for the summer (she used to be left for 3 to 4 hours with no mess). Now am starting to worry about the mess I'll come back to. Jojo was speyed last week and I asked the vet about her toilet habits, he has confirmed there is no medical reason for her to be messing. 

Please could I have some advice on whether I should crate Jojo again? This would mean Jorge has the run of kitchen while she is crated. Also any other hints and tips I could try to get her to hold herself longer (which I know she can do). 

Also what is the best thing to use to clean up messes? I have been using dettol spray, but obviously she is still thinking that it is ok for her to go so am wondering if I'm not sui9ng correct solution to clean. 

Thank you. 

Jemma


----------



## leashedForLife

Jem01 said:


> ...Jojo has started relieving herself[indoors]. She is doing both [urine + stool]
> though she is walked well and taken to the garden before we go out anywhere.
> It started with [overnight] but now [she] doesn't seem... able to be left for more than 1.5-hours without messing...
> 
> I [return] to work next week... and it seems that Jojo has got worse... she used to be left
> for 3 to 4 hours with no mess. _ am [worried] about the mess I'll come back to, [after a workday].
> Jojo was spayed last week and I asked the vet about her toilet habits, he... confirmed there is no
> medical reason for her to be messing.
> 
> ...should  crate Jojo again?
> This would mean Jorge has the run of kitchen while she is crated. _


_

 i hope she is crated NOW, jem -

U don't want her ** free ** with her sibling, and her spay incisions!! 
he may play with her, jump on her, lick or chew her stitches, etc. 
even if she is wearing a cone-collar, HE is not.

she should wear a cone-collar, be walked on a leash not free-running, 
and be separated from her bro, for 10 to 14 days - or MORE, depending on how rammy 
+ active they are indoors; Boxers can be very inapropos, leaping over + on things, 
very full-on tackle-football style play, hard impacts and heedless of pain.

* did the vet actually examine her for a possible UTI? 
i hope it is only mild stress or an asymptomatic UTI in her kidneys or bladder. 
U may need to ask the vet about an occult urine specimen, or culturing her urine, if she continues to urinate 
indoors when crated - that generally indicates UNcontrollable, involuntary urine.

she may also have a prolapsed bladder, adhesions, a weak bladder-neck or sphincter, etc. 
ASK Ur vet - 
did he *visualize her bladder* during her spay? did it appear normal? 
if he was unaware of her toileting indoors, he may not have looked at her bladder much - 
assuming all was normal, with no symptoms mentioned. fingers crossed, 
i hope U mentioned it before she went in for her spay-surgery.

* what happens when YOU come home? are they leaping, barking, whining, licking? 
stress can trigger bowel + bladder - if she's intensely excited at the prospect of Ur return, she can lose control. 
equally, if she is DISTRESSED by being alone with k9-company only, she can have bowel-motility affected - 
and bladder.

yes, i would crate her - in an airline-style crate with a solid floor, NOT a wire 'cage' AKA show-crate. 
the shipping-crate is safe for transit, U might need that; a 24 x 27H x 36L crate should be more than large-enuf 
for a Boxer, a 30 or 32-inch long might be perfectly adequate; she needs to be able to ENTER, U-turn, and exit; 
if she can U-turn, that is proof that he has space-enuf to lie down.

DEPARTURES + RETURNS should be very casual, normal + cool - 
No reunions, no caroling, *"Where's my bayy-beees?! oooh, scrumptious, i missed U so, awww..." from the door!* 
get organized, walk out; open the door, walk in - IGNORE the dogs for a minimum of 5-minutes, then they go directly outside to void... Then, greet them warmly but without any shrieking drama. 
*calm, cool* exits + entrances; this minimizes the chances they will develop separation-anxiety.

= re crating=
crating her will also clarify who's doing what - it's quite possible that both are voiding indoors.

=re neutering = 
is her bro NEUTERED? if not, i would think about that - soon; all the full-on intact-M behaviors will develop 
from this point INTO and THRU his 9th month, and things he learns + practices get harder + harder to reduce, 
re-train, or eliminate. 
leg-lifting indoors is far more likely in intact vs desexed-Ms, along with M to M posturing + challenges, 
humping, mounting, fights, bites, etc.

with luck, Ur F is suffering mild stress + it's easily addressed.  that would be good! 
- terry_


----------



## Sausagedog

Thanks for this sticky, I have had our JRT for three weeks now and she's 10 weeks. I have been watching her like a hawk and praising her for every job done out in the garden. We have had relatively few accidents really, due to the constant watching and I crate her when dealing with the kids/cooking/upstairs/out for a bit. She is full of beans in the morning and wees v.v. frequently at this time, yesterday I took her out for very brief periods about 5 times and each time she wee'd  so I was happy that we made some good progress, it looked as though she was associating 'going outside with me' with 'going out for a wee'. Hurray! But then yesterday arvo I caught her mid-wee indoors and told her firmly 'NO' and took her straight outside. I think I may have unintentionally scared her :scared: as this morning was very different, she was very quiet and looked quite sheepish. I then found a poop under the table  bless her, and wondered if she felt bad. And this morning every time I took her out for a wee she did not do it, she was very much quieter though so maybe not so in need of a wee, she seemed to save it up and have one big one. What to make of these pups, eh? Hope I am going about it the right way and hope I haven't set her back!
Sausagedog xxxxx


----------



## Lubbeelou

I have a bit of a dilemma...

We have two beautiful labs both house trained since we had them pretty much but when I'm away at university Daisy will find a way of sneaking into my room and peeing on the floor.. 

She has done this a couple of times but she hasn't wet anywhere else, I thought maybe that she missed me but it's not a nice way to show that!! I also thought that it may be anxiety or something but she's not like it normally, she does have this obsession with going under my bed for some unknown reason and she's a nightmare to get out of there! 

I hope someone might have some answers for me as my parents are baffled and are now having to invest in a new carpet!!


----------



## <3 Oliver

that is very odd that she started doing it when you went away...it could be a seperation anxiety symtom as well as the hiding under the bed. I don't know what you use to clean the messes, I have an extra aborbing towel that's dedicated to puppy messes. I dab it on the accident and it picks up a lot of the mess and then I use Nature's Miracle spray. It's wonderful! It get's rid of stains, odors, and everything that dog messes leave behind. It could save your parents tons of money instead of getting new carpet.


----------



## go_fetch_it

Hi All,

I have some great tips and a training guide for teaching a puppy to toilet on command the essential basic command needed for all owners housetraining a puppy. My 8 week old dobermann learnt this in 24 hours and you can see him on video. CLICK HERE to visit my blog and the house training guide!

Happy reading!

Jo Clarke ACFBA MGoDT 
Go Fetch It dog training!


----------



## <3 Oliver

Hey guys! 

I'm back again for more help with Oliver! He has recently mastered the art of lifting his leg when he goes out to the bathroom...there isn't a tree that doesn't get marked. However, he's so proud of he new found ability that he's doing it in the house, even after he's been outside. He has recently done it on one of my plants and one of his toys. 

I was talking to one of my friends and she said that in her puppy class they told them that once they go through puberty they would start wanting more freedom and testing the boundaries (much like a kid). It made sense as to why he's being so sassy lately and marking everything he wants. 

I wanted to see your opinions on it and if there was anything I could do to deter it from happening in the house.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Lubbeelou

<3 Oliver said:


> that is very odd that she started doing it when you went away...it could be a seperation anxiety symtom as well as the hiding under the bed. I don't know what you use to clean the messes, I have an extra aborbing towel that's dedicated to puppy messes. I dab it on the accident and it picks up a lot of the mess and then I use Nature's Miracle spray. It's wonderful! It get's rid of stains, odors, and everything that dog messes leave behind. It could save your parents tons of money instead of getting new carpet.


Thanks ... Well I have this kind of fluffy carpet, which I will not be having again!.. The thing is she's 4 yrs old, I do have a special bond with her which may have something to do with it. I have to admit I miss them both sooo much when I'm away but don't worry I'm not going to pee on the floor! :lol:

I will get my mom to put some of that spray on the shopping list!

It's really weird, I've never known any other dogs do anything like this, she always does it in the same place too, I had another thought that there might be a smell that we can't smell but I thought that was unlikely


----------



## CarolineH

<3 Oliver said:


> He has recently done it on one of my plants and one of his toys.
> 
> I was talking to one of my friends and she said that in her puppy class they told them that once they go through puberty they would start wanting more freedom and testing the boundaries (much like a kid). It made sense as to why he's being so sassy lately and marking everything he wants.


It is territorial marking that's all and some male pups do try it out for size.  It is not part of any sort of quest for 'dominance' or anything. Wash anything he marks with a cleaner from a pet shop so that his scent does not remain. Be vigilant and watch him for signs of leg lifting, clapping your hands with a loud 'NO!' when you spot the signs. Reward him with praise when he changes his mind.  Castration tends to stop this behaviour if that is something you may consider for the future. 

I found a useful little article here - Marking: Understanding It, Stopping It


----------



## leashedForLife

Lubbeelou said:


> [Daisy is] 4-YO, I do have a special bond with her which may have something to do with it.
> I have to admit I miss them both sooo much when I'm away...


be sure to keep the reunions + departures vey low-key and cool. 
**no reunions** with the dogs whining + licking + barking + jumping all over U - keep it cool. 
take the dogs out to toilet, let the initial craziness subside, THEN... pet them and talk, 
after they void, after they run around, after they come down. 

hiding under the bed and being unwilling to emerge sounds like fear - 
or anxiety of some kind; i would get something under the bed to block her access, even empty boxes will do; 
then work on her anxiety, use CALMATIVES [post #22 on the Dog-Body-Language sticky] 
use B-Mod, see fearfuldogs.com - especially see Triggers + Thresholds.

good luck, hun - 
terry


----------



## daviidwilson

leashedForLife said:


> hey, addy! :--)
> 
> i am not doubting the frustration or hassle,  but has he had a THORO vet-check?
> anatomical problems can cause urinary issues, not addressable by B-Mod; a dog whose bladder adheres to the abdominal-wall
> cannot compensate for that abnormality. illness is another possibility, a low-grade chronic bladder-infection is difficult
> to Dx. an occult urine-spec, CULTURED - not just peeked-at under a scope - may find hidden-nasties lurking... :eek6:
> 
> Q #1 - is he desexed?
> if not, i would snip him ASAP; if he is already, then skip it, :lol:
> 
> is he living with chronic stress? noisy or unpredictable environs, changing cast of characters, recent House-Move!,
> new family member, fave-person left for college, other new/disturbing circs... ?
> 
> can U crate him? IOW is he crate-trained + comfy in a solid-walled, preferably airline-approved shipping crate?
> a soft-sided bag will not work; he will chew-out or if he pees,  it goes thru the bag to carpet, anyway.
> 
> also, is he leg-lifting or does he leak?
> dogs / pups with urinary incompetence will dribble while sleeping, or even while walking from point to point...
> this can be a UTI, attached / tilted bladder, stress-induced (excitement, anx...), or several other things.
> medication for urine-leaks while sleeping, or even for stress-triggered leaks, is very inexpensive to try, and often solves
> the problem.
> stress-induced (fear) or excitement-triggered leaks, are often best tackled by both: meds to reduce the size
> of the problem (the emotional spike), and B-Mod to change the dogs emotional response from stress/upset/arousal,
> to tolerance or even pleasure.
> * these meds may be temp: antibiotics for a bladder or kidney infection, etc; or  lifelong -  lack of muscle-tone
> in the sphincter and overnite leaks while sleeping, and so on. :thumbsup: the chronic-condition meds are not costly. *
> 
> if he has had a really-thoro vet exam and is supposedly perfectly healthy + normal,
> then i would go with one of Two barrier-methods:
> crate the dog at night, or belly-band him At All Times when unsupervised.
> either an airline-approved shipping crate, or an all-cotton, washable belly band... :thumbup1:
> if U opt for belly-bands, i would get (or make! ) Two - one is in-use, one clean + dry spare. a cheap UNscented
> NO-deodorant panty-liner/pad is EZ, peel + stick, belly-band on dog, only remove it *after* hes OUTSIDE the house...
> _* On-leash, please - *_* taking-off whilst wearing it means he will not leak, :yikes: he will DRAIN * HIS * BLADDER
> into the pad/belly-band...  which can urine-scald the poor tyke. :crying: *_ waah-haaa-waaa... _
> 
> if he has emotional issues - readily stressed, easily excited, reactive, etc -
> DAP pump spray can be a terrific help.
> so can Rescue-Remedy LIQUID - i personally now use BOTH at the same time; they each address separate
> emotional areas, and there is zero interaction or overdose... :thumbup:
> 
> re Rescue-Remedy ** Pastilles ** (pills) - WARNING
> the candies contain Xylitol - an increasingly Common! fake-sugar which can kill dogs; blood-sugar values plummet,
> + they can be comatose in minutes - their kidneys can fail. :yikes: *Tic-Tacs have KILLED more dogs via Xylitol
> than any other item. Toothpaste + Chewing-gum are other risks... * Read * Ingredients! on ANYTHING that
> U give to the dog, this %$#@! is showing up in more + more items, every day -  from salad-dressing to muffins...
> * cheap @#!$%!* non-food #@[email protected]!... :mad2: *
> that it was safe last-week, does not mean that it still is, this week...
> 
> all my best,
> --- terry


He used to sleep in the kitchen, and would pee overnight on a puppy pad - now he sleeps in my bedroom he goes through the night - or makes it clear he needs to go out.


----------



## dalehitchy

mine GSD in 9 weeks and still pees in the house.... training pads are not an option as shell rip anything that goes on the floor lol.... 

i tried repeating words like poo poo and pee pee whenever she does it in the house... and when i let her out i go poo poo and pee pee... sometimes she does go to do it outside but sometimes she doesnt...

i dnt knw what to do.. usually i jus let her out and do her business but maybe i should go out with her so i can praise her at the right time when she does her business....

any other tips?


----------



## leashedForLife

dalehitchy said:


> [my] GSD in 9 weeks and still pees in the house....


yes? she is NINE WEEKS OLD :lol: she has no sphincter muscles to shut-off her bladder or bowel.  
right now, she should be on a *schedule - * 
out after every TRIGGER, and out in addition on a SCHEDULE - 
age in months + 1 = max number of hours between potty trips.


dalehitchy said:


> training pads are not an option...


good :thumbup1: skip'em, they only confuse the puppy. U teach 'em to go indoors; 
then U have to re-teach 'em NOT to go indoors. :crazy: just take the pup out.


dalehitchy said:


> i tried repeating words like poo poo and pee pee whenever she does it in the house...
> and when i let her out i go poo poo and pee pee... sometimes she does [void] outside, but sometimes she doesnt...


U are not teaching her English, or even baby-babble; U are teaching her to void outside. 
it doesn't need labels yet; just a schedule and to be in the right-place, with U, at the right-time. 


dalehitchy said:


> i dnt knw what to do..


*read the thread - * and the links found in the posts. 


dalehitchy said:


> usually i jus let her out and do her business...


bad idea. 


dalehitchy said:


> ...but maybe i should go out with her, so i can praise her
> at the right time when she does her business....


good idea! :thumbup: and take treats WITH U - have a goody under her nose as soon as she begins to rise 
from her squat. 


dalehitchy said:


> any other tips?


take her out as late as possible. 
set the alarm each night for 3-AM; get her out of her crate and CARRY her outside, 
set her down on-leash, WAIT, reward, come back in, pup in crate, back to bed.


----------



## CarolineH

Housetraining takes TIME and COMMITMENT along with PATIENCE and PRAISE. Pups do not learn on their own - we have to make the time and effort to help them to learn. If we are impatient and try to cut corners then WE fail, not the pup.


----------



## frankierokx

Hi All

I have just got a 6 week old Labrador poodle cross. 

My family are arguing that we should not let him outside at all till he has all of his injections. But i do admit there is a few inches of snow on the ground at the moment. 

I have read many different ways on how to paper train your puppy and am quite confused. :confused1:

Any help would be much appreciated.

Oh we have a 9 year old German Shepherd who is up to date on his vacations and a cat that has not been the same since we brought home Brutus. 

Many Thanks 

Frankie


----------



## leashedForLife

frankierokx said:


> I have just got a 6 week old Labrador poodle cross.  [snip]
> Any help would be much appreciated.


hey, frankie! :--) 
Ur pup is actually Two Weeks short of the optimum age to take the pup from their litter and dam; 
that may not sound like much, but those 14-days are crucial for development, both physical and emotional, 
odds are that this pup will be clingy, needy, at greater risk of separation-anxiety beginning by 6-MO, 
and will have poor bite-inhibition - AKA will have a hard-mouth in play or when using their mouth to interact with others.

re housetraining, did U read the thread? including the *links* in many posts? 
that's where i would start; if U have specific problems after setting up a schedule, introducing the crate, 
and so on, come back with those. 
happy training, 
- terry


----------



## frankierokx

Yes we have had him early, the lady that we had him from died and her sons could not look after the pups, so I had to have him as early as we could. 

I must admit his is not very clingy at all.

Yes he does nip, but after shouting "OW" his biting has been more gentle when playing.

I have read this thread, but it says nothing about taking a pup outside in this cold weather.

We have not got a crate big enough to put him in and my mother also refuses to use this method. 

All I have read so far is, only praise him when he "uses" the area we want him too. This is not working at all, as he has only used this area once since we had him on Sunday. 

Any advise is greatly appreciated at this time


----------



## leashedForLife

frankierokx said:


> I have read this thread, but it says nothing about taking a pup outside in this cold weather.


winter, summer, spring or fall - the pups still has to go Outside, On-Leash, With an adult to supervise - 
every 2 hours, and after every trigger.  no difference - carry an umbrella if it's raining, 
dress for the temps.


frankierokx said:


> We have not got a crate big enough to put him in...


* he's a 6-WO infant - the crate to fit a Lab X Poodle at that age, would be a large-sized cat carrier - not huge! 
ideally, crates are just large-enuf to walk in, U-turn, and walk out - period.

* buying a used *airline-approved* 24-inch x 27-inch x 36-inch *shipping crate* which will fit the pup 
as an adult, is more co$t-effective than a series of 'just big-enuf' crates that the puppy will outgrow.  part of the crate 
floor-space can easily be blocked-off to reduce the area - a clean empty cardboard box, inserted BEFORE the roof 
goes on, is a simple, inexpensive solution to limit the available space; as the pup grows, use smaller boxes. 
by the time the pup is 4-MO, the box-size will be minimal + vertical - "belting" the box upright with 2-inch 
wide masking-tape is simple, and keeps the pup from knocking it down and walking on it, or being crowded 
by the fallen box.


frankierokx said:


> ...and my mother also refuses to use this method.


sorry -  training the poster's mother is way-beyond my expertise.


----------



## Little miss chatterbox

Hi, I have just found your forum while looking for a few answers!

I have two cavalier king charles spaniels aged 7 and 3 both male.

We've had the 7 year old from a puppy and rehomed the 3 year old just over 2 years ago. Both are lovely dogs, mostly very good and mild mannered. 

We are having a little situation though with the 7 year old. He has started soiling indoors, he doesn't urinate, he does that outside and he does soil outside but he also does it inside. It's only very recently and seemed to coincide with the cold weather so I assumed it was because it was cold and wet. He's never liked going out in the rain and always has to be "put" outside. So I assumed that was the reason.

However, he did have a fright with some fireworks which would have been around the same time and hubby realised it seems to have been since he was frightened by them. He has never liked fireworks and this particular time he went outside when no fireworks were going off (we wouldn't have put him out if there were) and all of a sudden lots went off in a garden very close.

So we're guessing it's either due to the cold/rain or fireworks (or both) but we need to break the habit as it's not acceptable and we also have very young children in the house. 

He doesn't do it in the same place and doesn't seem to make any effort to go to the door to let us know he wants to go out. However he will tap the door if he wants to go out at times.

For example, my husband is upstairs in the study and the dog is lying on the landing, daughter goes upstairs and informs me there's poo on the landing, he's made no attempt to come downstairs but cowers when I went up to clean it up.

So, my question is, could there be a medical reason he is doing this or would you think it's one or both of the reasons above? Any advice will be greatly appreciated because I'm at the end of my tether and I need it to stop with the children in the house.

Thank you


----------



## MDolla

Our Border Terrier pup is 11 weeks old and we've had him for 3 weeks. He cries and scratches at the door when he wants to go to poo but he's still weeing on the floor though most of the time on paper. We crate him at night and he's been dry so far every night apart from the first night we had him. At the moment I'm here all the time so can let him out every hour and after meals/playtime but he doesn't seem to get it at the moment he should also be peeing outside. I know it's early days yet and when I had my Westie it took her a few months until she 'got it' so I'm not getting too stressed about it.


----------



## AnneCaley

This is totally helpful. Well, getting up with pup on your floor is really annoying. Instead of sweet aroma of coffee a very disgusting smell will wake you up in the morning. Training your puppy in the right age is the best strategy! Your post here is very helpful, house training is a big help.

When your dog get use to it, you will now suffer and always enjoy your dog's company. Right? I have a shih tzu and currently undergoing house training, we're getting along but sometimes it's like my puppy's forgetting her lessons but all in all I always enjoy teaching her the right behavior. Cute!


----------



## paşa's mummy

hi, 
my 21 week old GSD is good as gold through the day, never hardly has an accident, however at night she is dry up until my OH goes to work at 6am but when i get up about 1 hour later she will have wee'd on the floor and sometimes pooped too. she is let out by my OH but still does this. am not concerned about her still not been completely trained yet cos she is still young but wondered if it was something else that was worrying her or something??? we never shout at her or make a fuss of the accident just let her out and clean it up.:confused1:
hope you can help 
amy


----------



## leashedForLife

paşa's mummy;2211147 said:


> hi,
> my 5-MO GSD is good as gold through the day, ...hardly an accident... [over]night she is dry...
> til my OH goes to work at 6am... when i get up [approx 60-min] later she['s peed]... & sometimes pooped too.
> she is let out by my OH but still does this.


hey, amy!  
is hubby feeding her? does he *leave* at 6, or *arise* at 6? 
IOW - is he up at 4:30 and departing at 6-am, or pretty much up & out the door?

does he feed her & give her water? 
if so, i'd suggest that *U* give her brekkie, & *he* just give her ice cubes, not liquid water.

does he *stay outside with her* until she voids, praise & reward her *there,* then bring her in? 
if he puts her out solo, does not have her on-leash, does not STAY to observe she goes and what quantity/type, 
then he's cheating - she needs to be leashed, accompanied & monitored, then rewarded on the spot. 
good luck - training husbands is harder.


----------



## paşa's mummy

leashedForLife said:


> hey, amy!
> is hubby feeding her? does he *leave* at 6, or *arise* at 6?
> IOW - is he up at 4:30 and departing at 6-am, or pretty much up & out the door?
> 
> does he feed her & give her water?
> if so, i'd suggest that *U* give her brekkie, & *he* just give her ice cubes, not liquid water.
> 
> does he *stay outside with her* until she voids, praise & reward her *there,* then bring her in?
> if he puts her out solo, does not have her on-leash, does not STAY to observe she goes and what quantity/type,
> then he's cheating - she needs to be leashed, accompanied & monitored, then rewarded on the spot.
> good luck - training husbands is harder.


hi thanks for the reply, she has water and dry food available to her all night and day. he gets up at about 5.30 and leaves at 6?? he stands at the back door and waits for her and praises her < its only a small backyard. ill tell him to try ur advice tho and see how she gets on. fingers crossed  thank you
amy


----------



## leashedForLife

paşa's mummy;2217073 said:


> hi thanks for the reply, she has water and dry food available to her all night and day.


i would not suggest *free-feeding* to any dog - it encourages over-eating, and obesity damages joints, 
reduces exercise tolerance, is hard on major organs, and etc.

but especially with this dog, who is having housetraining troubles - *free-feeding means free-stooling:*
U never know when she is likely to need to toilet, thus it only complicates the housetraining. 
with scheduled meals, most pups have a bowel-movement within an hour after eating - 
the pressure of a full-stomach & satiety gets peristalsis going faster. 
thus, scheduled meals make BMs much easier to predict - which makes leaving the house & dog easier, too, 
as U can schedule meals to ensure the dog is _*empty*_ before being crated or baby-gated in a puppy-proofed room. 
:thumbup: no worries that the pup will desperately need to potty, & no-one be home to let them out & back in again, 
which forces the dog to void where they are.


----------



## paşa's mummy

leashedForLife said:


> i would not suggest *free-feeding* to any dog - it encourages over-eating, and obesity damages joints,
> reduces exercise tolerance, is hard on major organs, and etc.
> 
> but especially with this dog, who is having housetraining troubles - *free-feeding means free-stooling:*
> U never know when she is likely to need to toilet, thus it only complicates the housetraining.
> with scheduled meals, most pups have a bowel-movement within an hour after eating -
> the pressure of a full-stomach & satiety gets peristalsis going faster.
> thus, scheduled meals make BMs much easier to predict - which makes leaving the house & dog easier, too,
> as U can schedule meals to ensure the dog is _*empty*_ before being crated or baby-gated in a puppy-proofed room.
> :thumbup: no worries that the pup will desperately need to potty, & no-one be home to let them out & back in again,
> which forces the dog to void where they are.


i'd never thought of it like that but it makes sense. ill try work a routine out for her and set her on it. thanks for the advice:thumbup:


----------



## McBenson

HELP

I brought home a rescue dog 6 days ago, she is 2 yrs old and has had no basic training nor been house trained. I knew this was going to be hard work and was prepared for soiling. The first day she weed and pood in the kitchen a couple of times but we put her out every hour and praised her highly when she toileted outside. This she has responded fantastically to! We have kept to this and overnight and when she is alone in the kitchen for 1-2 hours she is completely dry. When she has the run of the house however, she picks a spot next to the front door and wees there 3-4 times per hour. Also when she is outside for any length of time she wees every few minutes. Sometimes only a tiny dribble comes out. I would say this was some sort of infection however she is dry at night for 7-8 hours and when she is alone in the kitchen she is fine. It's just when she's in company. How do I get round this?:confused1:[/FONT]


----------



## leashedForLife

McBenson said:


> When she has the run of the house however, she picks a spot next to the front door
> and wees there 3-4 times per hour. Also when she is outside for any length of time she wees every few minutes.
> Sometimes only a tiny dribble comes out. I would say this was some sort of infection however...


vet, vet, vet.

ask if the vet needs to do a CULTURE - not just a peek at urine. 
good luck.


----------



## McBenson

leashedForLife said:


> vet, vet, vet.
> 
> ask if the vet needs to do a CULTURE - not just a peek at urine.
> good luck.


Thankyou for your response. If it were a problem overnight or in the kitchen aswell then I would have taken her to the vets straight away, I was thinking it was more behavioural. The situation has improved today though. I got my training discs out to do some basic commands and since then she has not soiled at all inside the house. She is also alot easier to settle. For a dog with such a difficult background she responds very well to structure.
:thumbup:


----------



## leashedForLife

McBenson said:


> *bold added - *
> 
> The situation has improved today though. I got my training discs out to do some basic commands
> and since then she has not soiled at all inside the house.
> *She is also a lot easier to settle.* For a dog with such a difficult background she responds very well
> to *structure*.


i would not call training-dics 'structure' - they are interruptors, & quite stressful. 
the fact that they work for U, is not IMO justification for their use with what sounds like a highly-stressed dog. 
*structure* is a reliable pattern of activities & expectations, which form a framework of routines - 
and *routines* are, indeed, very reassuring to stressed persons of any species: dog, child, adult, equine...

i can also say, _'shame on U - for using punishment instead of teaching, with a dog who is stressed.'_ 
shut-down or inhibited is not *settled - * even if it looks similar.

i'm out of here - U are on Ur own; poor dog. :nonod:


----------



## CharlieDog

I have a five and a half month old Westie and his house training was going well until a couple of days ago.

He originally started off using puppy pads then about a month ago these were moved outside and he continued to use them in the garden. He now also pees on the grass and regularly when taken out for walks.

The last couple of days he has started avoiding peeing in the garden, coming back into the house and peeing wherever he's standing.

Today has been the worst - this morning I let him out, he came back in after 5 minutes, then went out again, then came back in and peed in the lounge.

This afternoon after his nap I took him outside, he spent 20 minutes sniffing around, playing with snails and leaves, generally messing about. I couldn't wait any longer so came back in with him and he immediately peed in the kitchen.

This evening I let him out and left the door open while I prepared dinner. He was in and out for a good 20 minutes again. I called him in and decided to have a little play time - threw his ball once and he peed on his beanbag.

I'm getting desperate as I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong - I try not to show him I'm annoyed and always clear up the mess with an odour neutralising cleaner.

Any advice greatly appreciated.


----------



## McBenson

leashedForLife said:


> i would not call training-dics 'structure' - they are interruptors, & quite stressful.
> the fact that they work for U, is not IMO justification for their use with what sounds like a highly-stressed dog.
> *structure* is a reliable pattern of activities & expectations, which form a framework of routines -
> and *routines* are, indeed, very reassuring to stressed persons of any species: dog, child, adult, equine...
> 
> i can also say, _'shame on U - for using punishment instead of teaching, with a dog who is stressed.'_
> shut-down or inhibited is not *settled - * even if it looks similar.
> 
> i'm out of here - U are on Ur own; poor dog. :nonod:


Oh my word I cannot believe how opinionated you are!! 
I have been given these trainining discs by the behaviourist at our vets and I always praise my dog which works in conjunction with the discs. How qualified are you to be giving such distinguished advice?


----------



## McBenson

CharlieDog said:


> I have a five and a half month old Westie and his house training was going well until a couple of days ago.
> 
> Any advice greatly appreciated.


I'd say this maybe is one for the vets. If this behaviour is new to your dog then there might be something medical going on that you have to have checked. I find that cleaning the area with bleach and biological washing powder works better than the odour neutralising stuff though.


----------



## leashedForLife

CharlieDog said:


> ...5.5-MO Westie and his house training was going well until a couple of days ago.
> 
> He... started off using puppy pads... about [4-weeks] ago these were moved outside and he continued to use them
> in the garden. He now also pees on the grass and regularly when taken out for walks. The last couple of days
> he has started avoiding peeing in the garden, coming back into the house and peeing wherever he's standing.
> 
> Today has been the worst - this morning *I let him out*, he came back in after 5 minutes,... went out again,
> then came back in and peed in the lounge.
> 
> This afternoon after his nap I took him outside, he spent 20 minutes sniffing around, playing with snails and leaves,
> generally messing about. *I couldn't wait any longer so came back in with him* and he immediately peed in the kitchen.
> 
> This evening *I let him out* and left the door open while I prepared dinner. He was in and out
> for a good 20 minutes again. I called him in and decided to have a little play time - threw his ball once
> and he peed on his beanbag.


it's unfortunate that he began with potty-pads, those really do confuse the issue, as the puppy first learns, 
_it's OK to pee or poop indoors... _ and then one day it is not. :blink: what happened?...

i'd be going back to step One, go out WITh the puppy, give him 5-mins, bring him in & crate him; wait for 5 to 10 
minutes, go back out; 5-mins? come back in... repeat indefinitely, but have a _*high-quality treat With U*_ 
every time U go out to potty with him - praise is not a sufficient 'clue'. 
that goody should be under his nose before he takes one step from his squat - he should just be rising, 
and U offer it with warm, low-pitched, sincere praise - not squealing or fast patter, calm & warm.

U cannot *put him out* or *let him out,* U have to go with him, to see if he actually produces & how much. 
STAND STILL with the puppy on leash in a place where he has voided before, and don't let him play - this is potty, 
not explore, run, romp, play; into the crate if he does not void, then back out. 
*until he produces, he cannot be allowed to have free time on any carpeted area, only on lino or crated. *
if he is out of the crate, he's in the same room, Under the Eye of an adult - not left to roam, not in another room.

* step up the supervision 
* no puppy out to void, alone 
* no off-leash potty trips 
* no stool or pee in the yard or outdoors, without a *treat & warm praise*


----------



## leashedForLife

McBenson said:


> I have been given these [training] discs by the behaviourist at our vets...
> How qualified are you to be giving such distinguished advice?


i have been training dogs and other species for over 30 years, now - and teaching their handlers or owners.

i don't care if the Pope gave the training-discs to U, they are used to interrupt unwanted behaviors; even if they 
were blessed with holy-water from Lourdes, they still work the same way: the dog does something U don't want, 
U throw the discs - the dog does not look when U say her Sacred Name? fling the discs. 
the dog begins to circle with nose to the floor, or squats to pee by the door? Fling the discs. Etc, etc...

NILIF - Nothing In Life Is Free - is *structure* - throwing-discs are a *correction* AKA *punisher* 
or *interruptor,* which causes the subject to break off the behavior abruptly.


----------



## McBenson

leashedForLife said:


> i U throw the discs - the dog does not look when U say her Sacred Name? fling the discs.
> the dog begins to circle with nose to the floor, or squats to pee by the door? Fling the discs. Etc, etc...
> 
> NILIF - Nothing In Life Is Free - is *structure* - throwing-discs are a *correction* AKA *punisher*
> or *interruptor,* which causes the subject to break off the behavior abruptly.


I DO NOT THROW THE DISCS OR FLING THE DISCS NOR DO THE DISCS LEAVE MY HANDS AT ANY POINT!!!
I ***** the discs from a distance and they do not startle my dog they distract her enough so I can praise her with a gentle voice, a loving fuss and a nice treat for stopping her behaviour. Oh I didn't use the discs to stop her from circling or sniffing or in a way that stops her from urinating in my house. She stopped that behaviour on her own after I started training her to leave the cat alone. Perhaps you have misunderstood how training discs are to be used!
I DO NOT PUNISH MY DOG IN ANY WAY SHAPE OR FORM!!!


----------



## CharlieDog

Thank you for the advice.

@McBenson - I'm not sure the vet could help, everything seems normal apart from the location he is choosing to go.

@LeashedforLife - This makes sense as he happily goes when out for walks - so it's back on the leash for him in the garden. We had started reducing the treats and praise but it was obviously too early.


----------



## leashedForLife

McBenson said:


> I DO NOT THROW THE DISCS OR FLING THE DISCS NOR DO THE DISCS LEAVE MY HANDS AT ANY POINT!!!
> I ***** the discs from a distance and they do not startle my dog they distract her enough so I can praise her...


whoops, sorry!  many folks here & abroad use them not as a conditioned sound [the chinking] but thrown to startle. 
i am very sorry - i got the wrong end of the stick entirely, i apologize.

Bark Bluster also uses bagged throw-chains in the same fashion as i described, and they are mentioned in the 
book written by the Aussie woman who founded BB - along with water-balloons, shout *Bah!...*, etc.

i'm glad to hear that the directions given to U were altogether different, thank Heaven! :thumbup: 
that is much, much, much better than what i had feared. i'm glad she is doing better.


----------



## McBenson

leashedForLife said:


> i'm glad to hear that the directions given to U were altogether different, thank Heaven! :thumbup:
> that is much, much, much better than what i had feared. i'm glad she is doing better.


Thankyou for apologising. I have seen many television programmes where they do throw the discs or shake bottles with rice in to startle the dogs and I would never have used them if that's how I was shown.


----------



## samuelsmiles

Hello, I've had a bit of a setback with my 4 month collie.

Up until a few days ago I thought I'd got him fully house trained after doing all the recommended procedures like treating for doing it outside etc..etc. 

He would even wake up in the middle of the night and woof quietly a few times to let me know to let him out which was excellent.

A few evenings ago though, when I was upstairs on my computer, he started to bark and I thought he was trying to get my attention for something else and I left it for a few minutes too long and went downstairs to find he had done a poo.

I've obviously confused him now by not responding to his barking on Friday evening, so each night since he has just done his business in the middle of the floor. 

I've started to get up earlier and earlier to let him out before he goes but i'm always too late. Is it just a case of starting the training routine all over again or can anyone give me any tips please?


----------



## samuelsmiles

I've given this a lot more thought and will just give him his last feed earlier from now on, giving him plenty of time for his last doings. That should do the trick.


----------



## Tara100

Hello

This is my first post 

I have a rescue Pug aged 5 and know little about her past. She has been with me for one month. I want to make sure I am housetraining her properly....

Piglet is put outside for the loo approximately every hour. If I go out and don't take her, she poos and wees in the hall and doesn't attempt to hold it, even within a short time.

At night, she usually does a poo and wee on the floor (even though she is put out just before bedtime, and does a wee and poo out there) I have never known a dog to poo so much! Most days she goes 3 times, and she can do a 'number two' 5 times.
I have one sheet of paper down in the hall, and at night she goes on that, or tries to and just misses with her aim. 

It seems that Piglet is only clean when I put her out on the hour. As soon as I am not available to do that, she goes to the loo where ever she is (she was sat in my car whilst I popped in the Co-op to get some milk, and in that short time, she did a nasty on the car seat and mashed it in for good measure - I can laugh about it now but could have cried in the street when I saw the state of her and my car) Such behaviour tells me crating wouldn't work as she will happily lie in her mess.

I start a part time job in one months time, and it would be good to have her in the correct routine as soon as possible - Can you let me know where I could be going wrong with Piglet?

Many thanks 


p.s.
I forgot to add that she has her dinner at approx 5-5.30pm, and nothing more to eat till breakfast next day - She 'number two's' right round the clock with no pattern to it and I can't bring her dinner time forward any earlier.


----------



## Sled dog hotel

From what you describe Im wondering if there is some medical reason for it, with the fact that she continuosly is going. If you have caught her anytime, would you say that she is aware of what she is doing or more importantly aware of the need to go? Pups dont always recognise the need to go due to imaturity. but a five year old should be, she shouldnt really be constantly going around the clock I would have thought. It might be an idea to get her a vet check and discuss it with your vet first, to see if there is any medical problems, to rule that out first.


----------



## Tara100

Sled dog hotel said:


> From what you describe Im wondering if there is some medical reason for it, with the fact that she continuosly is going. If you have caught her anytime, would you say that she is aware of what she is doing or more importantly aware of the need to go? Pups dont always recognise the need to go due to imaturity. but a five year old should be, she shouldnt really be constantly going around the clock I would have thought. It might be an idea to get her a vet check and discuss it with your vet first, to see if there is any medical problems, to rule that out first.


Hello and thanks for the reply :001_smile:

She has been checked over by the vet and all seems to be well physically. She has 'been' three times today, but the night is young!
I asked my neighbour how often her 1 yr old dog 'goes' and she said that her dog usually does 3 poops in a day, and can go more.

I'm going to start a new thread to see if there are any ideas out there about what I am doing, and if it's correct......

Thanks again


----------



## Hayden

Great post thank you.

Great tips about carpet cleaning. I am going to try the odor kill product you talked about.

Cheers

Hayden


----------



## leashedForLife

Hayden said:


> Great tips about carpet cleaning. I am going to try the odor kill product you talked about.


why bother pretending interest, Hayden?  


> *from YOUR sig-link - * http :// puppy-training-advice. net/
> 
> 'Secrets To Dog Training' Review -
> If youre contemplating buying training guides from *Kingdom of Pets*,
> youre in for one of the best digital downloads on dog and puppy training available on the net. Youll be very impressed by its comprehensive nature, as you will find that the author hasnt left out any tip at all. Rating: Website: Secrets to Dog Training Website Creator: Kingdom of Pets
> This guide was previously titled Sit.Stay.Fetch, but has  [Read More...]


Singing: Spam, spam, spam, spam, spam, spam, spam, spam...


----------



## lin_spoon

Please help i have a 8 month old rottie she is really good when we are in the house but when i leave the house for 2 minutes she does the toilet. You can tell the she has done it on purpose due to the size of them. I can never catch her in the act as she only does it when i'm out.


----------



## leashedForLife

lin_spoon said:


> ...i have a 8 month old rottie she is really good when we are [at home],
> but when i leave the house for 2 minutes she [stools].


do U take her out *on leash* to toilet before U depart, & wait with her? 
are her meals scheduled in the AM so that she has 45-mins to an hour to digest, & then go out to potty again - 
once to pee, immediately on arising [U pee first, then she goes], then she eats, *then* a 2nd trip 45 - 60-mins later? 
her PM-meal also allows around 45 to 60-mins before a toilet-trip?


lin_spoon said:


> You can tell the she has done it on purpose due to the size of them.


bull-pies -- dogs Do Not sh*t on purpose, 'just because' they are supposedly vengeful or similar kaka.

it is far more-likely to be separation distress, & due to gut-motility; if the dog is upset by being solo, her GI tract 
will speed-up the muscle-waves which move the contents along - the stools which result may not look soft, 
but often have more mucus than normal around them to lubricate them.

or it can just be lousy scheduling of meals & potty-trips: if she is *free-fed,* this leads to *free -* meaning 
*'unscheduled' - * stools. if she does not have time between eating in the AM & Ur departure for a 2nd trip, 
or to begin digestion & have her full stomach trigger a bowel movement, which takes 45 to 60-mins in adults, 
that's *not* her fault - she doesn't schedule her meals or Ur departures.

do U go out with her?
if U *put her outside to potty* vs _go out with her, on leash, _ U never know if she voided, or not. 
someone has to be there to note whether she voided, liquid, solid or both, any oddities or bad symptoms 
[blood in either, diarrhea, funny colors, straining to urinate or defecate, visible non-food in stools...], 
and how much - did she empty her bladder, or just mark with 2 or 3 ounces of urine?

_*besides all of the above, if she has any housetraining issues at 8-MO, U have to be there to reward her.*_
the penny will not drop without that vital clue: "this is where & when we want U to void, good dog!" :thumbup:


lin_spoon said:


> I can never catch her in the act as she only does it when i'm out.


have U tried videotaping to find out what's going on? 
does she always go in the same area? or mostly?

record her activity - if she's distressed, she will pace, check windows & doors, listen intently, be anxious about sounds 
[bark with minimal provocation, or be hypervigilant - run toward the source, flinch & freeze, etc].

is she crate-trained? if not, introduce her to a crate by feeding her in it, then have her sleep in it at night. 
give her a stuffed-Kong with a portion of one of her meals pre-frozen in it [wash the Kong before use well, 
if it is new! they are powdered with a nasty-tasting chemical to repel dirt & grease, so wash well inside & out].

then after 3 to 5 days when she is accustomed to it at night & has napped in it or snacked there 2 or 3 times, 
while U are home, take a *short* trip out of the house - be sure to take her out to void on-leash, 
give her a minimum of 10-mins to sniff in one area where she has gone before, don't play & don't walk - 
stand; she has a 6-ft length of leash to walk around U, NOT a 20-ft Flexi to roam the garden or street. 
when she voids, reward her on the spot with high-quality, small treats - a 1/4-inch cube of chicken-breast, 
a few flakes of canned or pouch tuna, a tiny piece of beef without fat, etc. 
*have it on U - if need be, put the treats in a baggie in the freezer, carry them along, return the remainder 
to the freezer immediately on returning to the house - but don't go back in the house after she voids, 
and reward her inside; it's gotta be outside, just as soon as she stands from squatting.*

her first at-home solo in the crate should be short, 10-mins max; have a cup of coffee with a neighbor, 
sit on the porch or in the garden outside with a book, anything; video-recording her is good, too, 
to see if she is distressed or relaxes & concentrates on her busywork: her Kong, a peanut-butter filled bone, 
an edible bone [carrot, potato, etc]... She should be lying down contentedly & very absorbed. 
her crate should be away from the front door or any door or window where passerby are visible to her.


----------



## Bwy39

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> 
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


I would like to thank the owner of this post for this advice which I find useful.
I have just got a puppy and have started her house training but started wrong. Thanks to this post I can correct myself first.


----------



## sophandfjord

Hey..
so ive got a 4 year old chihuahua Sunny and within a week of having him he was fully house trained, he was 12 weeks when we got him and he used to go out to do his buisness when he was instructed and needed to.

Then a year after we got Sunny we got another chihuahua Louie he was 8 weeks when we got him (hes now 3) but it was exactly the same training louie as he used to going out at the same time as Sunny. They were both so clean.

About a 18 months ago we rescued a Ragdol cat Ben (hes around 8 years old) and everything was fine the dogs were just like normal the cat was very well trained.

Then about 6 months after we got Ben we rescued another 
Ragdol cat Meg (shes 14 months old) and still everything was great but up until about half a year ago when we started noticing little wee's in the house at first it was on the carpet on the stairs and on the side of chair legs but now nearly every morning we would wake up to wee's on our duvets and bed sheets and anything on the floor left lying around.. (I do shout at the dogs for doing it but im not entirely sure if it is just the dogs doing it)

So i am totally confused with them all!! The cats are fine they go in their litter tray but the dogs seem to have gone backwards?! I dont know whether its because theres a girl cat in the house.. or whether there competing and trying to put their scent on things to show the cats that its their teritory?!

(ALL have been neutered)

Please help i am totally stuck on what to do next on whats best for all of my pets!!!! 

What should i do???????!!

Sophie xxxxxxx


----------



## leashedForLife

odds are that one of the cats is marking with urine - but it could be one of the 2 dogs.
*urine-marking is a sign of one of 3 things: 
* social stress - * the cat is upset by the presence of the new-cat, OR the new-cat is stressed in the new-home; 
one of the dogs is stressed by the new-cat, new routines, an outside dog marking the property... 
** urinary problems - * somebody has a bladder infection or kidney problems, or stones, gravel, etc 
* * anatomical problems - * a prolapsed bladder, too-narrow ureter, bladder adhesions,...

1st thing: all pets to vet for a full check for urinary issues, *including* a urine-culture if urinalysis is blank.

only after all 4 pets are *definitively* free of medical or anatomical problems that could cause this, can we decide 
it is behavioral, & treat it with B-mod; B-mod cannot 'cure' physical or medical issues, any more than a vet 
with a cast can 'fix' a dog whose heart, not their leg, is broken.

in any case - medical or behavioral - all traces of pet-waste have to go.
*go over the house with a blacklight & treat every area with an enzyme-cleaner specifically 
for pet-waste: Planet Urine, Pee Be Gone, Miracle Pet, something. RE-Check to see if it fluoresces 3-days later, 
when it's dry; if so, re-treat & repeat till it's gone under blacklight when dry. *

for the dogs: 
* belly-bands on both when indoors at all times; remove only after they go out to potty, re-apply before they come in. 
* after a week, take one band off one dog *while at home;* do the blacklight check nightly; belly-band is on 
whenever the test-dog is unsupervised, meaning if the test-dog is out of the same room as the adult, the band is on. 
no exceptions. [belly-bands BTW get lined with a cheap press-n-peel panty-liner, unscented & sans deodorant; 
they are changed immediately if damp to prevent urine-scald, & once every 24-hours even if they are dry.]

for the cats: 
confine them to one room, with adequate vertical space for each cat to escape the other & relax - 
2 trees or a tree & a shelf or _____ . 
have their litter boxes [1 per cat] separated widely, so it is impossible for one cat to prevent access to both. 
one litter box should be covered & one open, so that the cats have a choice [unless the litter is *perfumed or deodorized,* 
as a covered box with scented or treated litter is incredibly stinky even when it's clean; choose an unscented litter 
& untreated litter instead; baking-soda sprinkled in the bottom to counter acidity is plenty.

litter-boxes must be scrupulously clean - *normally* there should be 3 boxes for 2 cats in a house, 
and 2 boxes for one cat in a house, so that if one is soiled, there's a back-up; solids are removed TWICE daily 
at minimum, & checking 3 times is preferred over 2; stools without litter can be flushed down the toilet.

check the cat's room for new markings [remember, every 'old' marker has been eliminated with enzyme-based cleaner 
specifically for pet-waste] before this begins. *if the cats don't mark in the new room, & the dogs were not marking, 
then one or both cats is upset by the dog - or something outside that room. 
if one or both cats are marking -inside- the room, one cat may be stressed by the other cat. 
give them at least a week to 2-weeks in their own space, as calm as possible, without the dogs intruding.*

there are cat-panties, too - but an infant's swim-trunks with a hole cut for a tail will work. they can be split 
down the sides & velcro sewn on, to make it less-handling to put them on - the cat just stands there, 
the pants are 'unzipped' if need be AWAY from the cat so as not to startle the kitty with a loud *Riiiiip!...* nearby, 
& the pants are quietly sealed on. 
same protocol: liners changed every 24-hrs minimum, checked 5 to 6 times daily while kitty has litter-access.

take the pants off each kitty individually to figure out who is marking, OR set up each cat in their own room, 
with their own litter box, both separated from the dogs. Good luck. :001_smile:


----------



## han88

Hello!

We're new to the site, just brought home our 9 week old labradoodle pup Gypsy last night. We've done lots of googling but I'm confused about what to do overnight. Do we have to get up in the night to take him out? We're getting a crate, but presumably he won't mess in that, so do we have to leave it open - and doesn't that just make having the crate pointless?
He messed four times last night.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated 

Love Hannah


----------



## leashedForLife

han88 said:


> Any advice would be greatly appreciated


did U read the thread, Hannah?  that's my first suggestion.

be sure the crate is a solid-bottomed *airline-approved* shipping crate, not a wire cage AKA show-crate; 
the wire version is for display, not safe transport - it pins the dog down in the open, vs creating a feeling of security. 
dogs go UNDER tables, BEHIND sofas, etc, because a roof overhead is a comforting physical barrier; dens are nice.

II: go to DogStarDaily website, see the *downloads*, & get the 2 _*free books:*_ 
_Before U Get Ur Pupp__y_ & _After U Get Ur Pupp__y_ - 
lots of excellent tips for day to day living with a pup, & for training, too.


----------



## Spidermonkey

This is an absolutely fabulous thread and thank you to everyone for sharing your knowledge it really does help!

We're having problems with our one year old Staff Keira, and it's getting to the point that I don't think I'm going to be able to keep talking my lovely other half into keeping her any longer, please please help.

We have three dogs in total, a black lab, a golden lab cross and Keira. She is an absolutely beautiful dog and very affectionate but I fear we have made her feel anxious in our attempts to toilet train her and if you raise your voice ever so slightly she slinks to the floor which I hate. She pee's and poo's in the house and I don't think this is helped by the fact she then eats the poo. It's at the point now that the other two dogs are being excluded from the family as we feel cruel to let them in the living room and not Keira so they stay in the kitchen with her, but we feel hard on the other dogs that are a joy and behave themselves.

I don't know how to undo what we've done and how to turn it around and I really do want Keira to be part of our family. The house smells terrible, it's in the carpets in the plinths in the kitchen and unless we can turn this around, I fear that I may come home to find that Keira has to go and I dont want to lose her.

Please tell me what we need to do!!!


----------



## Sausagedog

han88 said:


> Hello!
> We're new to the site, just brought home our 9 week old labradoodle pup Gypsy last night. We've done lots of googling but I'm confused about what to do overnight.


I would just add that your pup is bound to be unsettled by the change, and seperation from the litter. Not a bad thing and won't last long, but I would say crate training immediately just might be too much to ask. Maybe put newspaper down in the overnight room for a week ish, to allow for accidents while Gypsy settles in with her new family, because the odd accident may be unavoidable and you don't want it to happen in the crate.

With my pup, she messed overnight until she felt settled, then slept in her crate (with the door open) and stopped messing overnight quite quickly, with no need to rise at night. And she is a JRT so small breed. Good luck with it all.

SD x


----------



## leashedForLife

Sausagedog said:


> ...your pup is bound to be unsettled by the change, and [separation] from the litter. Not a bad thing
> and won't last long, but I would say crate training immediately just might be too much to ask. Maybe put newspaper down
> in the overnight room for a week ish, to allow for accidents while Gypsy settles in with her new family, because the odd accident may be unavoidable and you don't want it to happen in the crate.


umm - i would *not* do this, we should start as we mean to go on, & plunking the pup *ALONE* in a room 
is IMO much worse for anxiety & upset than is having a pup right beside the bed, safely confined in a crate, able to hear, 
see & smell the Parent who is caring for her or him; THAT's minimal stress & maximal contact; if anything goes pear-shaped, 
U're right there to help.

having a pup cry, bark & scratch at doors in a separate room till s/he collapses in exhaustion into sleep is not 
a good introduction to life away from mother & sibs, especially as an early experience; it's extremely stressful, 
opening the pup to illness by undermining their immune function as well as distressing them emotionally.


----------



## Sausagedog

leashedForLife said:


> having a pup cry, bark & scratch at doors in a separate room till s/he collapses in exhaustion into sleep is not
> a good introduction to life away from mother & sibs, especially as an early experience; it's extremely stressful,
> opening the pup to illness by undermining their immune function as well as distressing them emotionally.


I agree and was not what I was suggesting!
SD


----------



## jamatoke

Hi i was wondering if anyone has ever had a problem with doing number 2 in the house even tho she seems to be almost totally bell trained to go outside and pee she just will not do number 2. its like she holds it in untill im not watching then sneeks upstairs to the spair room to do it. 
One other thing im not shure if i should try correct is that she will ring the bell, go outside a do literally one drop off pee just so she can get a treat lol shes only 7 weeks old so im not too worried about her.

Thanks Jamie


----------



## leashedForLife

jamatoke said:


> %&#[email protected]! &*#@+ *&$#@%^! +=)[email protected] *&$#(42&! &^[email protected]^%... :lol: *she's only 7 weeks old* &$%#@ (*^#@! *#&%[email protected] )9%4#8&+...
> 
> Thanks Jamie


puppies who are only SEVEN WEEKS OLD are not expected 
to be HOUSETRAINED - they are infants, & if they were human-infants would still be breast-fed 
and in DIAPERS. :incazzato: infant-pups are SCHEDULED - all day, every day - and at night, 
AN ADULT gets up at 3-AM every bloody night when a pre-set alarm goes off, and that 
ADULT takes the infant-pup outside, CARRYING her or him in their arms outdoors, 
sets the pup down on leash in a familiar potty-place, and WAITS - then rewards the baby 
when the pup voids, praises her or him warmly, and takes the puppy back to her or his crate, 
in the master-bedroom with the grown-ups (so the pup feels safe & secure) and the ADULT 
goes back to bed.

INFANT-pups can only wait SO * LONG between potty-trips in daylight or waking hours. 
*the rule is, Age in Months + 1 = Max # of hours between potty-trips.*

THIS infant is only 7-WO which is LESS than 2-mos old; hence, this pup's max schedule 
between potty-trips is *1 [month in age] + 1 = 2 hours max between potty-trips, 
WITHOUT triggers; a TRIGGER is an event that means an immediate potty-trip: 
* a meal, * a drink, * active play, * excitement, * waking from a nap, 
ARE * ALL * TRIGGERS. *


----------



## McBenson

erm ....... shouldn't the pup still be with Mum at 7 weeks old??


----------



## RobD-BCactive

Ideally yes, but there's unfortunately been very many threads where breeders have sold litter at 6 weeks old. Perhaps the new owners have problems because of it and poor breeder practice; or may be this is becoming common for some reason (financial?).


----------



## openmind

First post here but the missus and I are getting seriously stressed about Paddy our staffy...

Basically Paddy joined us about 5 weeks ago from our local rescue centre. He is about a year old and has from day one been very excitable and full of life which to me is a great thing! 

Now we already had a staffy cross called Bert who is three and came from the same rescue centre. Paddy and Bert get on like a house on fire which is great but we're really struggling with Paddy when it comes to house training.

We think he may have been an outside dog before being abandoned at the centre as he loves spending time outside but was very wary about going for a walk, almost like he had never been walked before. The problem is that on a night or when left alone and even in front of us, he feels the need to have a pee or a poo. His favourite trick is doing it on our bed which when you've just changed the sheets is seriously unfunny! 

Now Bert was already house trained when we got him so we had it easy there and reading through this thread and other material, it does seem that shouting or getting angry is absolutely the wrong thing to do so we're changing tack and being calm with him instead. We've tried putting him in the kitchen overnight but this morning for example he tried to eat his way through the door so obviously that's not going to work either!

If it helps, Bert sleeps in our daughters room and I think separating the two of them stressed Paddy out but we obviously want to get him out of the habit of using the house as a toilet.

Luckily I work from home so I can keep an eye on him but any tips or advice would be more than appreciated


----------



## madcow

I have only had my puppy two weeks on saturday. I have taken her outside immediatly she wakes and every half hour throughout the day phew!
Today and I know this must be pure fluke but she is making her way outside on her own.
We have a long way to go but hopefully she might be getting the message. As for praise she is too busy sniffing everything to take notice of "good girl for doing wee wee's" I do say this every time but feel like one is wasting me breath :001_rolleyes:.


----------



## leashedForLife

madcow said:


> I've only had my pup two weeks on saturday. I have taken her outside immediately she wakes
> and every half hour throughout the day, phew!
> Today and I know this must be pure fluke... she is making her way outside on her own.


do U mean U are not going with her? if so, i would *not* recommend that, because U cannot know if she 
voided at all, if so was it liquid or solid, & was there anything to be concerned by: pink in her urine, 
straining bowel-movement, foreign object in her stool, etc.

U cannot *assume* that each time she exits, she is actually voiding - U have to go along, monitor, 
make a note [mental or physical] of *what* she produced, how *much* she produced, 
& the approx time - plus anything odd, soft-stool, gas or cramping, shows pain... 


madcow said:


> As for praise, she's too busy sniffing everything to... notice... "good girl for doing wee wees" -
> I do say this every time but feel like one is wasting me breath. :001_rolleyes:


shorten the phrase :lol: since she has zero idea what 'wee-wees' are. 
*good girrrll... * is plenty, warm, sincere & fulsome - BUT a tidbit under her nose 
as soon as she rises from her squat, will 'say' a lot more, & mean more, too.

that's part of the reason U need to be there, every time - to praise warmly & offer a tangible reward. 
pairing a tasty reward *with* praise colors 'praise' with more value, too - food enhances it, 
associates good things with the verbal praise, & praise develops a new lustre. 

*if U want to teach a cue to void,* say that future-cue _*while*_ she is actually voiding, 
& have 2 labels - one for urine, one for stool. i used "quick-quick!" in a cheerful voice for pee, 
& 'potty' in a deeper tone for stool - but what is used is immaterial, so long as it won't crop up in convos. 
it takes 3 to 4 days of 'labeling' urinating for the tag to mean anything, so until then it is a label - 
not a cue. If U use the cue too-early & she has not got the concept, go back to labeling the action.

the cue for *stool* takes longer to connect, as it happens less often than urination - 
5 to 7 days of consistent labeling while the dog stools is usually sufficient, but 10-days is not uncommon.

DON't use [as i did once...] _'okay!'_ as permission to potty, :lol: much too common in chats!


----------



## RobD-BCactive

Also some dogs which were just wandering out on their own, rather than having doors opened and escorted to go, later had trouble understanding difference between inside & outside; according to past thread suggestions.

Just another reason to supervise, it's hard work but really pays off in much quicker house-breaking.


----------



## madcow

Yes I am actually going out with her. She is voiding everytime


----------



## vance99

I have just got a new puppy and i am really glad that i came to this place. I guess this is all the information i needed. Thanks you friends for the information.


----------



## leashedForLife

a free Puppy Potty-Training Guide - 
from *the Perfect Puppy in 7 Days*, by Sophia Yin DVM, 
an e-book with more than 25 photos & step-by-step instructions! 
Download here: 
Free Puppy Potty Training Guide


----------



## Sunshine's Dad

Please my new friends dont get mad at me asking ! This is all very new to us so we need guidance as well as Sunshine with the potty business . 

Baring in mind he has only had his first jab and not supposed to go outside yet , we are using training pads and a training spray which is supposed to encourage him to go wee wee on the pads . Initially we had great success but this past few days , the entire floor is just a great big toilet for him , he goes eveywhere without displaying any of the wee or poo signals if you know what I mean . 

We seem to have gone backwards with his progress which is of great concern to us so any help would so very much be appreciated 

Sorry if I sound completely ignorant or stupid  

Thanks in advance


----------



## LouJ69

Hi sunshine's dad,
Sorry to hear that you're having problems with your new baby.

Well, generally young puppies have really small stomachs so the recommendation is to bring them to their pee area every half an hour and almost straight after drinking water or eating a meal. Is there a reason why you can't let him out into your garden if you have a garden? Most of the time you can let a new puppy out into your back garden provided that it's not being used by other unvaccinated dogs etc.


----------



## Sunshine's Dad

We are in a flat but have access to a grassy area but foxes and other cats have been on it . I keep trying to get him to go to the pads but he wont stay long enough and Ive tried to encourage him to stay with a treat but it just doesnt seem to work . 

Last night I was constantly popping him on the pads with him for a couple of hours which must have been boring as anything for him LOL , then he just ran on the landing the moment my attention slipped and peed on the carpet 

I have to confess to feeling very deflated this morning


----------



## LouJ69

It might sound extreme but maybe just put the pads all over the floor so he has no choice but to go on them! Carpet the floor in them! 
Lol, you'll probably just have to get inventive with this problem! 
The sooner the better he can get outside, hey?!


----------



## spot

Great original post - I do agree - paper is not always a good idea - I do prefer to always train my puppy to potty outside - afterall how will your puppy know the difference between the paper open at the sports section and the potty paper - always best to go for the outside option. Never a good idea to start training a puppy to pee on a piece of paper - it will only confuse him or her in the long run. Start as you mean to go on.:blink:


----------



## Sunshine's Dad

We seem to be making a little progress , YAY !!! Now he has had his second jabs we are taking him out for frequent wee breaks , and although its not 100% he is doing great  

Poos on the other hand * good grief charlie brown *


----------



## UChoudhari

hi all - as always, PF is one ofthe most helpful websites ive come across.
We recently got a 7 wk Goldie and are crate training him
My wife and i work full time but have a pet sitter and family helping out to break the day for him

Everytime he wants to pee or poop he goes and stands next to the garden door to let us know he needs to go outside.
In the night time, he whimpers from his crate to wake me up and let him out.

All in all, he has peed inside a few times but thats is my fault as i didnt let him out!

what i want to ask is that how do you go about associating a command to this? I keep saying "go toilet" when i let him out.. but there have been a few instances where he just hasnt gone and done anything ..and instead just sat on the grass or started playing.

thanks


----------



## leashedForLife

UChoudhari said:


> ...how do you go about associating a command to this?
> 
> I keep saying "go toilet" when i let him out.. but there have been a few instances where he just hasnt gone
> and done anything... and instead just sat on the grass or started playing.


U cannot do it any other way then by going WITH the pup [or dog], & *labeling the action - * 
when the pup or dog *is voiding,* say that cue - ONCE, then *praise & reward* on the spot. 
literally the pup/dog should be rising from their squat, or dropping that rear-leg, & the treat should be 
in front of their nose, with warm, sincere praise being spoken at the same time.

the pup or dog must be leashed, & U have to go with them, WAIT & reward. 
for pups or dogs, *stand still - * be a post; don't chatter, just wait.

going to a place they have used previously also helps - a piece of tissue with some of their urine, 
dabbed up before & popped in a small plastic-bag, can be helpful if U *must* go somewhere new - 
as when U visit relatives, or the pup goes to a friend's home. 
trap the paper with a small stone or twig so it does not blow away.

after the pup hears, _'quick, quick!'_ while urinating, every time, for 3 or 4 days, s/he *might* 
be getting the concept - but only try it when they are likely to want/need to void: Say the label ONCE 
while standing at a familiar potty-spot, & wait - the pup should circle & sniff, if they have any idea 
of what to do - just wait; if they fail to produce, go back indoors & CONFINE the puppy to their crate, 
a puppy-proof area with an easy-clean floor, etc. They cannot go on the carpet, even supervised, 
*if the pup did not void on that last trip.*

U can use any phrase - be quick, hurry up, business, potty, whatever. 
to STOOL on cue is exactly the same teaching process, but use a different phrase - 
attach it first as a label, *during the action - * then it is used as a cue once it is well-attached. 
and don't forget to reward every right-place, right-time performance - the pup/dog should be very 
clear that voiding outside, [at the curb, in the garden, on the gravel, whatever the place] 
is a very, very good thing to do! :001_smile:


----------



## bellaandsax

Hi All,

Looking for some help out here! We have a 13 week old german shepherd puppy who is currently housebreaking (i Hope!!) We got him from a barn situation and considering the circumstances he's doing really well I think. The problem I'm having is that we let him out all the time and for a while he was doing all 'business' outside (about 5 days) but now, all of a sudden, when we let him out he does a small wee and a poo but when he comes back inside he pees all over the house for no apparent reason. It's like he doesn't want to pee outside anymore. I take him out and when he does do #1 outside theres no end of praise for him. We have all hardwood flooring and clean the mess and disinfect as soon as he goes. I just don't understand why he's doing it. Any advice? (PLEASE HELP!!)

Thanks!

PS He has been vet checked and he's 100% healthy and what he's doing isnt an accident from excitement.


----------



## leashedForLife

bellaandsax said:


> ...for a while he was doing all 'business' outside (about 5 days) but now, all of a sudden,
> when we let him out he does a small wee and a poo but when he comes back inside he pees
> *all over the house* for no apparent reason.


why does a 13-WO pup have access to the whole house? :huh:

there are only 2 possible answers - *all housetraining errors are the human-adults' fault. *

- A, the puppy is not supervised adequately - meaning *in sight at all times.*

- B, the pup is allowed to leave the room where the adult is/are - see A.

baby-gates, crates when solo, puppy-proofed rooms with easy-clean waterproof floors, etc, 
are mandatory - and *only the human* are smacked with that rolled-up newspaper or magazine, 
smartly rapping their head while repeating, _'i will mind the pup at all times, & obey the schedule; _Wak,
_i will *never* leave the pup out of my sight unless crated, gated or Ex-penned on a cleanable floor, _ Wak, 
_i will take the pup out after *every trigger*, i will get up every night at 3-am when the alarm sounds, _ Wak, 
_dress as needed & carry the pup out, deliver a treat when he performs on leash, & return him to his crate, _ Wak, 
_& myself to my bed thereafter. *i will mind the pup at all times, & obey the schedule...'*_ Wak...

repeat as needed.


----------



## bellaandsax

The puppy only has access to the bottom of the house ie the living room (when we're awake/in) the kitchen and the hall. All have waterproof and easy to clean flooring. I take him out ALL the time, I think this problem he has is a behaviorial one seeing as I've followed all the steps in this and every other guide I can find. I take him out and stay with him til he goes pee and poo but then 1-3 times a day he will come back in and pee a second time in the house. He NEVER does it out of sight, he stands right in front of me, looks at me and pees. He started doing it at first on his bed so I've had to take his bedding away for now because I can't keep washing it every day. He also doesnt go in the same place twice, and shows no warning signs. He sometimes will just sit down on the floor and pee sometimes he stops mid walk and pees...... Any advice? 
Also I don't whack my pup.


----------



## leashedForLife

bellaandsax said:


> I take him out ALL the time, I think this problem he has is a behaviorial one
> seeing as I've followed all the steps in this and every other guide I can find.
> 
> I take him out and stay with him til he goes pee and poo but then *1-3 times a day he will come back in
> and pee a second time in the house. He NEVER does it out of sight, he stands right in front of me,
> looks at me and pees.*


sounds like a UTI or anatomical problem - inflamed or stenotic ureter? 
tipped bladder? bladder adhesions? something - i'd ask the vet for a *urine culture* 
to find any asymptomatic, chronic or subclinical infections. :yesnod:

some anatomical problems cannot be seen from outside.


----------



## bellaandsax

I'm not sure it seems unlikely that it's an infection as the moment you stand to go near him and bring him outside he starts whelping and proper freaks out but I guess it can't hurt to have it looked at. I did see the vet today for his second set of vac's, but she told me to just leave him outside for an hour at a time and since I can't always be outside for an hour at a time I don't agree with her solutions.


----------



## leashedForLife

bellaandsax said:


> ...the moment you stand [up] to go near him and bring him outside, he starts [to yelp?] and... freaks out [properly]...


then i have no idea - good luck! :confused1:


----------



## bellaandsax

He has other behaviorial issues aswell, I think it has something to do with the man we got him from. The guy owns 8 rescue GSD's and I don't know whats happened to this pup before we got him but if you even use a fly swatter to kill a bug he freaks out, it's especially bad if a male does it, he's better with females. He's getting better with it over the past few weeks but he's still very freaked out. But this is all for another post. Thanks for the help.


----------



## leashedForLife

bellaandsax said:


> He has other behaviorial issues as well, I think it has something to do with the man
> we got him from. The guy owns 8 rescue GSDs... I don't know whats happened to this pup before we got him
> but if you even use a fly swatter to kill a bug he freaks out, it's especially bad if a male does it, he's better with females.
> 
> He's getting better with it over the past few weeks but he's still very freaked out.
> But this is all for another post. Thanks for the help.


in that case, i strongly suspect that it's *submissive urination - * but still i'd want a _*urine culture*_ 
to confirm it's not a subclinical chronic infection, just in case.

submissive urination is *not voluntary - * pups especially cannot control it, it's an automatic, instinctive 
behavior of appeasement; if they feel threatened or scared, or a big dog comes to meet / greet them, 
involuntary leakage is the pup's response - it's a way of DEMONSTRATING 'i'm just a baby', & it shuts-off 
any possible aggressive response in the older-dog [normally], protecting vulnerable pups.

if that's the case, U need a good, experienced positive-reinforcement trainer who has worked with FEARS - 
not 'just' training. APDT-uk, COAPE, APBC, a CAAB, a vet-behaviorist, are all good referrals.

a 'listener', Whisperer-wannabe, *anyone who spouts dominance & pack-theory,* or a simple obedience 
or garden-variety manners trainer, cannot address this issue.

*Calmatives* can help - see post #22 of the sticky, *dog body-language* for What, When, How, 
they are all OTC / no scrip needed & very safe; no dosage worries, interactions, etc.

i'd buy a belly-band for him [100% cotton with fully-enclosed elastic] with a spare in case 1 got soiled; 
1 to wear, 1 to wash - line it with a cheap peel-N-press *no* deodorant / *no* perfume panty-liner. 
only take the belly-band off when he is out to toilet, on leash; check to see if it's dry, have a spare liner 
in a pocket; change whenever it's damp or EVERY 24-hours minimum to reduce bacteria growth.

some pups outgrow a weak sphincter muscle; for others leakage is a lifelong issue, when they're excited, 
startled or nervous... Propanolamine [Sp???] or a similar spelt-name is a drug that can help, 
if he is a wetter by nature. Belly-bands are a simple way to save washing & floor clean-up.


----------



## bellaandsax

Thanks so much for that info the submissive peeing makes so much sense with the other issues he has at the minute. Using the advice from this post and some other posts I've found he's getting better. We will still seek an obedience trainer if the problem persists. As he's still young he may grow out of it I assume (?) At least now we know what we're dealing with and which situations may trigger it. Thanks again!!!


----------



## WettHarvaredu

my dogge when it was a puppy it used to pee where ever it needed to but after some time we trained him to take out for a walk morning and evening, this habit made him pee out door in fields. but in case of it have any urgency it wakes any one in the house and pulls them to take it for a pee. it looks funny for me but its the best habit for a good dog. 
my dogge has grown up


----------



## dbtips

Not only did your dog grew up, it also learned a valuable lesson of asking permissions. It's a great thing and I hope my dog does that too - although it'll be quite annoying if your dog pees a lot.


----------



## buramiko

Hi everyone, I just got a 6 month old dachshund from a pet shop where she has been caged for I think 2-3 months waiting to be sold. She's been with us for over 3 weeks now and we are still having a hard time house training her. 

We set up a fence in the kitchen to make an enclosed area and place inside 2 potty pads one next to each other (so it's like one large potty pad, my husband just doesn't want to clean the floor that often I think). Also there is a little bed for her to sleep. We try to set some schedule and let her out for 15-30mins and then lock her up, then let her out again ONLY after she pee/poop. Sometimes when we see her does the job we praise her and give her treats, but she doesn't seem to be aware that something she did deserved the praise/treat. She doesn't seem to notice that peeing/pooping is actually an "action" that is done on purpose, she doesn't run in circles/sniff around before she pees, she just squat and goes when she's running or playing. So even though we praise her afterwards she can't seem to relate. 

Anyhow the fenced area works OK for 2 weeks. She understands that in order to get out she needs to pee/poop, and she does that on the pads (maybe the coverage is just too large it was hard to miss). So we tried to take one step further and enlarge the enclosed area. This way the unpadded area is relatively larger and she needs to walk a bit to reach the pads. Then she starts peeing on the floor (and on the pads too), meaning that afterall, she does NOT know that peeing/pooping needs to be done on the pads!

We are so frustrated now and would appreciate some advice, are we rushing things and should we give her more patience?? When she acts like peeing is so natural just like breathing but not something that needs to "think before doing", how can we praise / encourage her to go to potty pads by herself??


----------



## Andromeda

I never used puppy pads and I'm not big fan of them. Please read first post in this thread it will give you an idea how to train puppy without using pads.


----------



## leashedForLife

buramiko said:


> [we bought] a 6-MO Dachshund from a pet shop... she was caged for [*FOUR*] months waiting to be sold.
> [after more than] 3-weeks... we are still having a hard time house-training her.


U bought a pet-shop puppy; her instinct for cleanliness was broken, she has lived with her own waste for most 
of her life; this will take time to fix, don't blame the dog, blame the pet-shop process.


buramiko said:


> *Sometimes* when we see her [void,] *we praise her & give her treats*, but she doesn't
> seem to be aware that something she did [earned] the praise/treat. She doesn't seem to notice that pee/poop
> is... an "action"... done on purpose, she doesn't [circle or sniff] before she pees... just [squats while] running or playing.
> ...though we praise her afterward, she can't seem to relate.


* read the WHOLE thread - there are links, free books, etc.

* ditch the pads; if hubby won't clean, U will have to.

* ALL potty-trips are on leash; take her out, STAND STILL & *wait*. 
nothing in 10-mins? back to the pen; no more than 10-mins later, back out; *stand & WAIT.* repeat indefinitely.

* *when she voids, every time - the treat is under her nose As She Stands-up.* 
& make it good - chicken-breast, tuna-slivers - small is fine, half a pea, but SUPER-good. :thumbup:

i would not wait more than 3-hours between potty trips, plus after *every trigger*. 
triggers include a meal; a big drink; excitement [visitors, etc]; active play; & anytime she WAKES. 


buramiko said:


> how can we praise / encourage her to go to potty pads by herself??


U can't - i'd ditch the pads, her time in the pet-shop has confused her more than enuf already. 
U can also put panties on her indoors & take them off ONLY outside. line them with disposable pads - 
no perfume, no deodorant; change whenever damp or every 24-hours *minimum*.


----------



## grandad

always been the crate for me............works everytime, along with consistency and timing


----------



## Jonathanus

Hi,

Good ideal, pls try to keep posting. I like this topic very much and I will digged this one.

If you want to get more materials that related to this topic, you can visit:Dog trainer resume

Best regards.


----------



## FionaS

We're having trouble with Fly, we can tell when he wants to go outside for a poo so we take him out and praise him (with hand signals as he is deaf) but he just seems to wee at will! There's not even circling or crying he just stops and -bam- wee. Any advice?


----------



## leashedForLife

FionaS said:


> We're having trouble with Fly, we can tell when he wants to go outside for a poo so we take him out
> and praise him (with hand signals as he is deaf) but he just seems to wee at will! [no] circling or crying, he just stops and -bam- wee. Any advice?


dogs don't normally *cry* when they urinate - or before urinating. 
circle & sniff for pups is a usual sign; sniff VERTICALS often signals impending urine, for adult-male dogs.

i'd use a belly-band for any male-dog older than 12-WO who does not signal before urinating in any way. 
i'd also be thinking about a vet-check: dogs who dribble where they stand can have anatomical problems 
[poor sphincter tone, tipped bladder, bladder adhesions, ??...] OR an infection in kidneys or bladder.

belly-bands are cheap & safe; 100% cotton with fully-enclosed elastic will keep him comfy & prevent indoor 
urine - i'd buy 2, one for use & a spare. Carry a spare peel-N-pres panty-liner out for potty trips, check the liner 
in use to be sure it's still dry - replace as needed or at LEAST once/24-hours, to prevent bacteria growth.

his potty-trips should all be on-leash, so that U know he voided [or not] & how much - watch for straining, 
thin flow, any PINK in his urine, etc. REWARD all right-time, right-place voiding, urine or stool, On the Spot - 
carry small but high-quality treats along, have them pre-cut in the frig or freezer & snag them on the way out. 
PEA-SIZE is plenty; chicken-breast cubed, beef bits, low-fat/low-salt cheese [Mozz, 50%-reduced Cheddar], etc.

put the belly-band back on before re-entering the house; 
installing a BELL he can hit with a paw on the floor, or hanging a string of Xmas bells on the doorknob 
that he can shake, will help give him a signal that he can share.

let us know how he gets on, & what the vet says. :001_smile:


----------



## FionaS

leashedForLife said:


> dogs don't normally *cry* when they urinate - or before urinating.
> circle & sniff for pups is a usual sign; sniff VERTICALS often signals impending urine, for adult-male dogs.
> 
> i'd use a belly-band for any male-dog older than 12-WO who does not signal before urinating in any way.
> i'd also be thinking about a vet-check: dogs who dribble where they stand can have anatomical problems
> [poor sphincter tone, tipped bladder, bladder adhesions, ??...] OR an infection in kidneys or bladder.
> 
> belly-bands are cheap & safe; 100% cotton with fully-enclosed elastic will keep him comfy & prevent indoor
> urine - i'd buy 2, one for use & a spare. Carry a spare peel-N-pres panty-liner out for potty trips, check the liner
> in use to be sure it's still dry - replace as needed or at LEAST once/24-hours, to prevent bacteria growth.
> 
> his potty-trips should all be on-leash, so that U know he voided [or not] & how much - watch for straining,
> thin flow, any PINK in his urine, etc. REWARD all right-time, right-place voiding, urine or stool, On the Spot -
> carry small but high-quality treats along, have them pre-cut in the frig or freezer & snag them on the way out.
> PEA-SIZE is plenty; chicken-breast cubed, beef bits, low-fat/low-salt cheese [Mozz, 50%-reduced Cheddar], etc.
> 
> put the belly-band back on before re-entering the house;
> installing a BELL he can hit with a paw on the floor, or hanging a string of Xmas bells on the doorknob
> that he can shake, will help give him a signal that he can share.
> 
> let us know how he gets on, & what the vet says. :001_smile:


That is awesome thank you - I will get some belly bands  And look into getting some bells for the door. I will mention it to the vet next week when he goes for an injection.


----------



## leashedForLife

FionaS said:


> ...I will get some belly bands  And look into getting some bells for the door.
> I will mention it to the vet next week when he goes for an injection.


sounds good - & U are very welcome. :001_smile:

i did forget one thing - "WE" means there's more than 1 person responsible for the dog; hang a sheet of paper 
& a pen on a string on the frig-door, *log his potty trips: * nothing elaborate, something like: 


> *Fly's potty-trips:* Day/date -
> 
> TIME ---- | ---- Fluid (oz.) | Solid (oz.) | Comments
> 2:15-pm ____ ~6-oz. ____ 8-oz. ____ Stool a bit soft; firm toothpaste.
> 
> 7:30-pm ____ 8 - 10-oz.__ Zero ______ distracted; neighbor's dog barking.


that way if his meals are approx the same time [within an hour or so] U should soon see a pattern. 
life gets much easier with a pattern; 2 meals daily is good, as it reduces the dog's excitement & they gobble less.


----------



## newdogtrainingacademy

thanks for this. very helpful. can you post more tips on dog training? that might help me out on my blog.. do you have trainings for labradors? thanks..


----------



## lotus

a difficult logistics problem!

i live on the 3rd floor in a shared house.
i go out with Clover to the garden on the ground floor first thing in morning, after meals and before bed.
during the day between those times, i just try and judge by his behaviour to take him down.

however, i work from home and its coming up to my busy work season and i cannot always be watching his behaviours for toilet breaks.

is there a way i can get him to use a bell only for toilet breaks?
like, if i have a bell on my room door, but i want to differenciate it from when i'm just going downstairs for the bathroom or kitchen.

thoughts? thank you in advance.


----------



## Botty110

Hi,
We have a 6 year old, male west highland white terrier who wees inside,right next to the open back door. We let him outside all the time and now its summer the back door is more or less permanantly open.
Do you have any ideas of how we can stop it??
Thanks


----------



## culmore princess

Can anyone help me My King Charles spaniel is 7 months old and leaves a pee and a parcel on the kitchen floor every morning. I don't have any idea how to train a dog as the last time i had one i was a child and my parents done all the work. My husband is first up in the morning and he rubs her nose in it before cleaning up the mess. She gets fed at 5pm but doesn't always eat as she is fussy. We take her out to do her mess before we go to bed, and she will do a pee. When she is out for a walk she won't do anything. She waits untill we're back home and she does it in the garden. I don't know what time she does her mess but it's cold when we get to it and sometimes the pee has dried up. ANY suggestions would be gratefully recieved


----------



## leashedForLife

culmore princess said:


> My husband is first up in the morning and *he rubs her nose in it* before cleaning up the mess. ...
> ANY suggestions would be gratefully recieved


 - STOP rubbing her nose in it.

- Read the sticky - starting with the first post, & reading links as they are posted.


----------



## culmore princess

Will that stop her doing it??


----------



## CarolineH

culmore princess said:


> Will that stop her doing it??


Read the first post of this thread please and there you will learn what to do. 

You have work to do - there is no quick fix. It take time, patience, commitment and perseverence and rubbing a puppies nose in it is cruel and futile! We certainly would not do that to a baby human so doing it to a dog just does not make any sense either.

To help to educate yourself and your husband, I recommend this book - Dr Dunbars Good Little Dog Book


----------



## notamardybum

Help! My rescue alsation and jack russell cross was house trained when she came from the home at 5 months but has gone downhill recently (she's now 9 months old). I can't get her to poo at night whatever I do (she has her last one about 6.30pm on her walk, and eats at 5pm). Most nights she's weeing and pooing even though I check her after just five and a half hours. I've just realised there might be some residual odours in our limestone floor (she sleeps in the kitchen) but any tips on 'making' her poop before bedtime would be MUCH appreciated!


----------



## leashedForLife

notamardybum said:


> ...any tips on 'making' her poop before bedtime would be MUCH appreciated!


U cannot _*make*_ her stool - dogs are not toothpaste-tubes.  bummer, eh?

U can, however, crate-train her, using an airline-approved shipping crate - which has a solid lower-half 
& solid roof, giving the dog more of a feeling of security than a wire-cage, which only keeps them trapped 
out in the open, with an open roof & sides.

since U just moved house, *calmatives* might be very helpful. 
see this post Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much... for What, When, How, etc.

i'd use a minimum of 3 calmatives: 1 oral, 1 tactile, & 1 olfactory.

GSDs & their mixes are prone to GI-problems, including gut-motility changes when they're emotionally stressed. 
they can also develop diarrhea when upset - so please avoid scolding her or acting angry, as it only makes her 
feel more stressed-out. Odds are excellent she is *not* doing this on purpose - she's just upset by the move.

GSDs are emotionally-sensitive & JRTs are reactive - so she's got to be a thin-skinned individual. 
she needs some help getting over the transition.


----------



## Amz

Hi All,

We house trained our ex-breeding dog in a week. As she's ex-breeding we wanted her to have somewhere in the house where it is ok for her to go so we laid down two puppy pads. She started off going everywhere in the house, no telling off ( we just cleaned up ). We would put the smell for her on one of the pads and the moment she went on them she would get loads of praise and we would give her a treat ( she caught on quickly ). We then went to just praise.
At one point she would hold it in till we got home. We were out one day and she did it outside and she got loads of praise.
Now only outside or on the pads.

She now does the same at my mum's house and round our friend.


----------



## CarolineH

Excellent Amz! That's what it takes for successful house training. Time, patience, praise and persistence! :thumbup:


----------



## Alfie208

Hi there
This might be a 'how long is a piece of string' question but could anyone advise roughly how long you would typically expect a puppy to become housetrained? There is loads of great stuff on the forum and we are following things to the letter...outside after sleep/play/food as well as every hour in between and during the night. We are saying the trigger words and using a clicker and treats, however we don't seem to making much progress. Our little German Short Haired Pointer insists on going inside, even after we have just come in from a fruitless 'bathroom run'. He is 11 weeks old and we have had him for 2 weeks. I appreciate it's early days and we need to keep persevering but can anyone help set our expectations? Many thanks!


----------



## Guest

All dogs are different. Mine was slightly slow to toilet train (but by no means unusual) and was about 90% trained at 6 months. If your pup is only 11 weeks he might be nearly there, but he also might need a bit longer


----------



## Kivasmum

Do you have him crate trained? This can be very helpfuk for fruitless bathroom outings ha ha if he diesnt go you could bring him back inside, place him in his crate for say 20, where theoretically he shouldn't want to mess, then take him back outside for another shot at it? Then if he does go outside, treat, fuss, play etc 
My gsd is 10 weeks old and will do 95% of her number 1s outside, but as soon as I think I can relax, she reminds me she's only 10 weeks old  ha ha


----------



## Alfie208

Thanks for that; we will try the crating solution. However, therein lies our other problem.....he has a complete aversion to the crate door being closed. He's quite happy to be in there with the door open and we have tried to make it a happy place, with treats/toys and sometimes his food etc, but as soon as the door is closed he howls...literally. The more he howls the more distressed he gets (as do we). It least he's not boring............!


----------



## Kivasmum

yes the crate thing would only work if he didnt mind being in there 
with kiva, it was about 3 or 4 days before i tried closing the door on her, i would leave her little trails of treats into it, or throw a few in when she wasnt looking so she would find them and go in without being told, then when she had done that for a few days i would hold a treat in the doorway so she went in to get it and while she was in there give her a few more, then couple of days after that once she was used to sitting in the crate quietly after i had given her a few treats sat in there i would shut the door then open it immediately and give her a treat  then progressively leave the door closed a little longer, but only say 10 seconds longer, if you jump to too long and give them chance to start making noise it sort of kills it ha ha

anyway enough rambling, you get the idea :wink:
but now after around 4 weeks of little and often kiva is at a point where now, when its bedtime i say bed and she goes, she will happily lay in there with the door open or closed and likes to use it as her den when chewing on something tasty


----------



## Elaine Sloan

Hi everyone!!


I bought Missy a lhasa apso puppy 8 weeks ago and the toliet training is alot harder than my last dog carly who was a king charles!!. Missy will not go on the training mats and runs round the garden playing with them and tearing them to bits. with it being summer she has been out in the gardens most of the day and then comes into the house and does her business in doors! i give her praise when she goes outside and dont shout when she goes indoors. She is also able to hold it during the night until i let her out first thing in the morning, but recently she is playing with her poo to!!! i think she knows rightly lol all other training is going well but i just dont seem to be able to master the toliet training i know it is early days for her but i think she should be a wee bit further on, and why is she playing with her poo ??????:


----------



## ggartside2

me and my wife recently got our puppy tinkerbell from a local westie breeder,we decided to go the old fashioned way of house training,watching her like a hawk.
anyway that diddnt work,every day and night we found ourselves scrubbing the carpets after her accidents.
so we decided to buy a cage from our local pet store,i must admit i was totaly against using a cage,but we were slowly loosing control of our puppy.
the first few days of her going in the cage was heartbreaking,she cried all the time like a baby,every nerve of my boby was ready to burst,but we had to carry on for her sake as well as ours.
anyway,7 days on and its a total turn around for us,she goes in the cage when we go to bed,she goes in the cage when we go out to work ect,and its brilliant for us now,we are enjoying the love of our puppy as it should be,she loves going in her cage now,and we have had clean carpets ever since.
my advice to anyone thinking of buying a cage is DO IT,


----------



## JohnnyS

Like everyone on this thread I'm experiencing the deep joy of house training a puppy.:crying:

The problem I'm having is when Jaz my 8 week old cocker spaniel goes outside for a wee. She spends most of the time exploring or chewing anything in sight.

My question is, would it be benefitial to make a segregated area of the garden for her just to toilet, so she would not get distracted?

If anyone could please help it would be greatly appreciated.:smile5:


----------



## aldobaggins

Is it normal for set backs to happen? Everything was going tickety boo with my 3 and a hald month old toy poodle until about a week ago. Admittedly she did get ill (colitis from eating something that wasn't food) but she's had numerous peeing accidnets in the last week (post recovery from her colitis). Is it an age thing, or perhaps I just became too complacent as I thought it was all going well and got lazy about taking her out hourly and praising her for peeing. A friend told me her border terrier also had a toilet training set back at four months - any one else experienced this?


----------



## leashedForLife

aldobaggins said:


> [are setbacks] normal...? ...my 3.5-MO toy
> Poodle [was] ill (colitis... eating [non]food)...
> she's had numerous peeing accidents [while recovering]...


A - it's not age.

B - illness can cause setbacks in any behavior.

C - she's 14-WO; she's only had working *sphincters* on bladder & bowel for 14-days.  
just how fast do U expect a pup to learn to know what a full bladder/bowel feels like, how to 'hold' it, 
& also build-up the needed muscle tone to do the job? :smilewinkgrin: it takes time to build muscle, 
& practice to build behaviors.

i'd still be taking her out at 3-AM each night, at this age, myself. hang in there!  
and remember that *all housetraining errors are the fault of the presiding human-adult... 
not the juvenile-pup or the not-yet-housetrained dog.* Swat the human's head with a rolled magazine 
while repeating, _'i must get the puppy Outside at those times when s/he needs to void, 
& i must reward the puppy on the Spot at the Time for all right-place, right-time performances.'_


----------



## slakey

Milo had been peeing up one of the table legs so I got him neutered for his own safety and to hopefully stop him doing this, but yet he is still doing it if he doesn't go for a pee at night time.

So every so often I will smell pee in the morning.

Whenever I let him out at night before everyone goes to bed, I always try to check if he's been, I'll go out and watch as he's a crafty sod like that, and if he does go I tell him good boy and reward him with a treat..

I'm just wondering how long I'll need to do this with him as next year he'll be 3.


----------



## mrdynamite

haha that's funny!


----------



## dog fence

then you shouldn't have dog


----------



## Shalize

Soz if some one said this but cba to look through all posts.

Have you tried taking some soiled paper maybe from nighttime and rubbing on a patch of grass? just so his scent is there - same on a walk. Not nice I know but it helps some dogs. Do it on lead and wait as long as you have to. When s/he wees put a command and praise to it (don't go nuts!) same for number 2's.

You need to take it to basics out every hour but the command thing is very useful. Only put a command in when they are in action!


----------



## Leeds Rob

Hi everyone,

Just discovered the forum, and as a first time owner I may well bombard you with questions over the coming weeks!

We have a 13 week old cocker Spaniel boy called Jasper and we've pretty much followed the guidelines for the 5 weeks we've had him.

At night he sleeps in his crate but its open within a puppy pen and in there he uses a puppy pad. Other than that someone is around for most of the day on most days so he rarely goes very long without being taken outside.

Although on his first trips out he got distracted by all the new sights and smells he quickly picked up on the command to perform and was always praised and rewarded for doing so.

However, he doesn't seem to have made a great deal of progress in the last 2-3 weeks. He uses his pad at night and during the day he'll have 1-3 'accidents', sometimes within a couple of minutes after going outside and seemingly trying and failing to go.

I guess I have 3 questions:

1. Is this progress about par for the course?
2. Would we be better off locking him in his crate at night without access to the pen?
3. When outside he sometimes seems to do a token dribble in order to get his reward but doesn't empty fully? Is he realy that bright or are we imagining it (and if he is - any tips?)

Thanks in advance!


----------



## leashedForLife

Leeds Rob said:


> ...he doesn't seem to have made a great deal of progress in the last 2-3 weeks.
> He uses his pad at night & during the day [he has] 1-3 'accidents', sometimes within a couple of minutes
> after going outside, & seemingly trying and failing to go.


 - he's only 13-WO; he's only had operating sphincters for 1-week. 

- i'd tighten up on his supervision; every error is the fault of the human-adult who is minding the pup, 
as it's not the puppy's responsibility to get himself outdoors at the apropos time, it's our responsibility.

- i would *not* give the pup access to the floors inside the house *unless* he just voided - 
& i was there to witness it; he should be on-leash for all potty-trips so that we can see what, & how much, 
he produces, & so that he's within arm's-reach for his reward, which should be immediate. Warm verbal praise, 
of course, always begins with the first moment when he squats; his TREAT arrives the instant he stands-up, 
before he takes a step - Timing does matter. 

- if he has just been out but did not void, i'd crate him. 
wait 5 to 10-minutes, take him out, wait 5-minutes on leash *doing nothing - * don't play, don't cue him, 
don't coo or plead, don't walk him, STAND THERE - be a post & wait. If he has not voided in 5-minutes, 
it's back to the crate. 
repeat indefinitely, till he actually voids; then JACKPOT: multiple tiny but savory treats, given one by one, 
in a stream of 10 to a dozen pea-sized or half-pea sized bits, while pouring warm low-pitched praise over him 
as if he was a stack of pancakes, & praise was maple-syrup.  Don't stint! Be generous - tell him he's brilliant, 
a k9-Einstein, an incredibly good-dog... Lay it on with a trowel.

- i'd remove the pads; they create a mixed-message that it's OK to void indoors. 
i only use them for dogs whose owners want them to use a pad inside lifelong, which pretty much means 
only toy-dogs; i have yet to have a Dane-owner request that their dog use a potty-pad for life. :lol:


----------



## Cazz enigma

Hi, i have a 12 week old Westie, have had him for 3 weeks now, to start with it felt like he was tiddling on the floor every 2 seconds, nightime was a nightmare, so we started putting his bed in a puppy pen, the first night it was like a swimming pool in the pen, but since then, when i get up at 6am there is usually a wee, a poo or nothing at all.

Daytime we take him into the garden at all the points you mention above, and watch him like a hawk, praise and treats when he does go in the garden, but he will still come indoors and tiddle again sometimes straight away, what are we doing wrong???


----------



## nlette

I have a problem with housetraining that I have not been able to find any new ideas for, can you help??
I have three dogs, terrier mixes. One of them is 12 and is perfectly trained. The other two have a particular history that I believe accounts for their ongoing problems. They were born into a household of 65 (yes, you read that right) dogs. The owner (obviously a hoarder) gave them all up suddenly one Christmas eve and all the dogs were eventually adopted out. My two, Mojo and Riff Raff, came to me after a couple of months of being fostered and were estimated to be about 1.5 years old; they are now 4ish. I tried crate training, and Mojo could actually chew or otherwise get himself out of any crate, one time I found his collar hanging on the edge of the crate where it got stuck when he crawled thru a tiny opening between the wires, it's amazing he didn't hang himself. restricting them to a small room didn't work either, since they would chew themselves thru the door frames or destroy the doors. fortunately, tho, they seemed to figure out housetraining ... at least when the weather is fine. they are free to roam in the house, and have access to a doggie door to go in and out of the back yard. 
for the past 5-6 months, there have been no messes in the house. but recently as the weather changed (colder, wetter) they have started both peeing and pooping in the house. I am so frustrated because this has been happening year after year. all summer long everything is fine. they do their business outside consistently. once the weather turns, the problems begin. they start ruining my carpets, even peed on my bed. 
even putting them outside for periods of time with the dog door closed (so they can't get back in) doesn't help. once the weather's turned for the year, they continue to pee and poop in the house even on a day like today when it isn't raining or particularly cold. 
I tried establishing a place in the house where there are pee pads so they would have a place to go that wouldn't destroy my property, but, you guessed it, no go. 
i tried going out with them consistently at the beginning and end of the day. I stand there waiting for them to go, and Riff Raff stares at me shivering rathere than sniffing and eliminating. she tries to sneak back into the house if my back is turned. 
I love these dogs, but I am getting really tired of this, can they ever be trained??


----------



## Andika

Mine is a rescue dog - small, white, mixed breed but totally enchanting. Loves everybody, rolls around with the cat and instantly seduces anybody who notices her. 
I have always had a pet, but this one is very special. Ecstatically happy tail-wagger and devoted to me.
Her only problem is - toilet training.
The first fifteen/eighteen months of her life were spent wandering around doing whatever she needed to do wherever happened to be handy. 
Because of this I have been extra tolerant realising that I am changing the habits of a "lifetime". 
I use a word for each function, of course, and after she does the necessary I tell her "good girl" a few times and pat her. She realises I am pleased. But she doesn't always perform. Usually in the morning she does the right thing, but some other times will take a walk with me, come back home and then mess on my (fortunately) tile floor. 
I don't scold her - just clean up. But she's very irregular. 
I tried giving her a little treat which she accepts enthusiastically but then drops after a second or two in favour of smelling something or watching something move. She can't get her priorities right. The words don;t seem t stick!
I also put papers on the terrace outside my bedroom sprayed with a special solution to "point the way." She sometimes uses this.
It's so difficult taking her out frequently as I live on the 5th floor! 
Does anybody have any ideas? 
Two people at the local pet club have told me "keep going, she'll get it eventually." I hope so.


----------



## leashedForLife

nlette said:


> *Bold Added - *
> 
> ...they are free to *roam in the house*,
> & have access to *a dog-flap* to [enter/exit] the back yard.


 * dogs who are not HOUSETRAINED reliably don't get full access to the house. 
period. It's self-defeating.

* are the dogs crate-trained? 
if not, i'd start there. I'd use an AIRLINE crate AKA shipping-crate, not a wire cage with a shallow tray. 
the trays splatter, leak, bend or crack, rust or warp, etc; Shipping crates have solid bottoms, all one piece. 
there are no leaks! Also, they provide a more-sheltered space which feels more denlike, vs wire-cages which pin 
the dog down in the open, with 5 open-sides [walls & roof]. BLANKETS, etc, just get dragged thru the bars when 
they're used to drape the wire-cage, & are chewed or used to absorb urine & stool upon.

* all potty-trips should be ON leash, WITH an adult-human. 
Perform? Warm verbal-praise *as the dog voids* & immediate treat *as the dog rises / drops their leg.* 
the dog should not have time to take a step - as soon as s/he rises from a squat / is on all-4s, a high-value treat 
is under her/his nose. RETURNING TO THE HOUSE to give treats is counter-productive; we are not rewarding 
entering the house, but voiding outdoors.

* IF THE DOG DOES NOT VOID - they are crated. 
5 to 10-minutes later, go back out; wait 5 to 10-mins, either reward voiding or Return the Dog To The Crate. 
repeat for as long as necessary; ACCESS to the house is only granted =after the dog voids= & only for 20-mins 
at a time, under *direct supervision of an adult;* if U cannot supervise the dog, they are crated.

* *dog-flaps* do not HOUSETRAIN dogs; humans do.  I'd latch the dog-flap till the dogs are reliable.


----------



## lkbroughton

Hi, I have a 16 month old Jack Russel/ Pomeranian Bitch, i had her from a pup and she's a lovely dog, has been very easy to train in all other aspects apart from i can't get her to go through the night without weeing or pooing! i let her out last thing around 10.30pm where she very often wee's and poo's, then by 6.30 in the morning, she's already "been" again on the floor! I nearly always watch her when i let her out in the daytime and fuss and treat her after she wee's and poo's but she still does it. When left for a good few hours in the day she can hold it so it just seems to be a habbit. I didn't "crate" train her but have tried putting her in a large cat carrier with the door on (which she uses as her bed and likes, and is big enough for her to stand and turn around) the first few night's i tried this she went right through the night dry and with no problems, so tried her without the door and she went back to "going" in the house! So tried her again with the door on and she weed in it!! 
I would really appreciate some advice on what to do.......:confused1:


----------



## leashedForLife

lkbroughton said:


> ...I have a 16-MO Jack Russel/ Pomeranian Bitch, i had her from a pup...


is she spayed?

if not, when was her last estrus? 
i suspect she has a UTI, & suggest a vet-visit with a urine-culture to check for chronic subclinical infection.

ONLY if that tests clear [grows nothing] would i consider this to be assuredly 'behavior' as opposed to medical.

meantime, i'd crate her every night, in a shipping AKA airline-crate not a wire cage, with NO bedding.


----------



## Jubbly

Toilet training help desperately needed please! Taco took ages and ages to "get it". He was good at work where I kept him crated and rarely had accidents - not so good at home where he wasn't crated until bedtime but eventually around 6 months the accidents became less and less. Taco is a toy cross. The only reliable toilet he did was his morning one. Since he has been neutered, which was a bit traumatic for him as he had more major surgery than envisaged, the weather has got cold AND he is no longer allowed at work with me, the poor little thing is clearly throwing a dirty protest at home. He has gone to basically worse than when we first got him. He goes in the morning but rarely of his own accord and is sometimes carried out - not good I believe. Now I come home every day to a poo on the floor. I don't know how to stop this. Two or three afternoons a week the landlady picks him up around 1/2ish and has him until about 6pm so you'd think he could hold it that amount of time but he doesn't? She says he has been to the toilet in their house as well. *Big sigh*. Any suggestions? He is not crated at home but only has the kitchen, lounge and hallway to play/sleep in. He also does a surprising amount of poos a day but I'm not overfeeding him. I just can't trust him to leave the lounge if I'm there as I don't know if he's going to sneak off and go to the toilet...


----------



## leashedForLife

Jubbly said:


> Taco took ages and ages to "get it". He was good at work where I kept him crated and rarely had accidents -
> not so good at home where he wasn't crated until bedtime but eventually around 6 months
> the accidents became less and less.
> 
> Taco is a toy cross. The only reliable toilet he did was his morning one. Since he has been neutered...
> the weather has got cold AND he is no longer allowed at work with me, the poor little thing is clearly
> throwing a dirty protest at home.


dogs DON'T "poop to protest".

that is quite a Machiavellian level of revenge, beyond the ability of a dog's brain. 


Jubbly said:


> He's... basically worse than when we first got him.
> ...Now I come home every day to a poo on the floor. I don't know how to stop this.


 - CRATE him at home.

- LEASH him for potty-trips, always.

- REWARD on the spot, each time he voids outdoors.


----------



## Jubbly

leashedForLife said:


> dogs DON'T "poop to protest".
> 
> that is quite a Machiavellian level of revenge, beyond the ability of a dog's brain. .


Sorry, my silly sense of humour. This was a joke, I wasn't seriously suggesting he is flinging poo around in the manner of a Cat B prisoner cross with his treatment.



leashedForLife said:


> - CRATE him at home.
> 
> - LEASH him for potty-trips, always.
> 
> - REWARD on the spot, each time he voids outdoors.


Do I crate him when he's at home all day on his own? Seems a bit mean as when I crated him at work, he got let out once or twice an hour and was in a busy office with lots going on. The leash is a fabulous idea - he runs away now if I try and get him outside so I shall start doing this thanks. Oh, and I usually reward him but will remember to do it everytime...


----------



## Maryl

Hi guys 

I was wondering if any of you might be interested in using Urine Off - I came across this product in the USA and now sell - Im worried im not allowed to post here. But it is really great for dog and puppy training - I have 3 cats and it worked to remove the odours and stains from cat urine - Hope im not breaking the rules here as its a great and very interesting forum xo


----------



## Siamcat

I can't believe I'm so excited about dog poop We picked up our puppy, a 4 and a half month old border collie last wednesday. We were told that he was house-trained, and that very occasionally he used a puppy pad at night. So, we bought him home, put down a puppy pad in the bathroom - which is where he used to sleep before he came to us, and one by the back door, after all - he is only a baby, new people, new surroundings etc - he used the puppy pads, but despite being taken out regularly - i.e. every hour, he absolutely refused to void outside! However often we took him out, however long we stayed out - he would come in and go straight to his pad - very, very frustrating! However, having read this thread and taking notice of all the fabulous tips, he has now started going to the loo outside:biggrin: There was one accident this morning - but I think that's because someone missed his cues in the morning rush - getting kids to school etc. The only explanation I can think of is:

a) I'm an excellent, intuitive dog-trainer - errr, not!!
b) I have a super-intelligent, amazing puppy - well, obviously
c) The advice on here is absolutely spot on - clearly the way to train a dog is to first train his humans

Thank you so much for sorting me out.


----------



## drenco

Hi everyone i have just picked up a Lovely 16 week old pure white Staff reason being ive been waking up to the idea of wanting a Dog for some now time also i have a friend who is a dog warden and this dog was soon to be put down (standard protocol for many Kennels dealing with stray dogs after a certain period of time if not homed), so i collected him today and i live in a 1st floor flat, really need guidelines on everything to do with toilet training as i obviously live up on one floor.


----------



## kezza30

I always thought you had to house train in the house when he is just a puppy but is it safe for me to take him out in the garden for house training right from the start?


----------



## leashedForLife

kezza30 said:


> ...is it safe for me to take him out in the garden for housetraining, right from the start?


does the garden / yard get used by all & sundry dogs, as a toilet-area?

if not, YES! :thumbup1: it's perfectly safe; it's only active-cases & any old virus they have left, 
which is vanishingly unlikely in a house-garden, tho quite possible in a park.

ALSO - 
dogs who've been vaxed with a modified-live-virus booster can shed virus in urine & stool for 90-days, 
tho it's more likely to be only a few weeks before the popn is too low to be truly 'infectious'.

a certain amount of virus-per-milliliter is needed to be truly 'infectious', unless the pup EATS it. 
ergo, don't let pups consume grass or herbs [clover, etc] in common areas... just to be safe. 
:yesnod:


----------



## kezza30

leashedForLife said:


> does the garden / yard get used by all & sundry dogs, as a toilet-area?
> 
> if not, YES! :thumbup1: it's perfectly safe; it's only active-cases & any old virus they have left,
> which is vanishingly unlikely in a house-garden, tho quite possible in a park.
> 
> ALSO -
> dogs who've been vaxed with a modified-live-virus booster can shed virus in urine & stool for 90-days,
> tho it's more likely to be only a few weeks before the popn is too low to be truly 'infectious'.
> 
> a certain amount of virus-per-milliliter is needed to be truly 'infectious', unless the pup EATS it.
> ergo, don't let pups consume grass or herbs [clover, etc] in common areas... just to be safe.
> :yesnod:


I've never seen any dog pass through my garden so I assume it'll be safe, we have had cats pass through do they have anything that would be harmful for my pup? We have rabbits so they attract the cats, well 2 cats that live in our garden and sunbath on our fence


----------



## leashedForLife

kezza30 said:


> I've never seen any dog pass through my garden so I assume it'll be safe...
> 
> we've had cats pass thru; do they have anything that would be harmful for my pup?
> We have rabbits [which] attract [2] cats, [who] live in our garden & sunbathe on our fence.


i'd only ensure the pup doesn't *eat cat-stools - Nor bunny-droppings*, which are less likely to carry 
predator-specific parasites which cat-stools can, but will make for stinky breath & can carry bunny-parasites, 
or if either the cats or rabbits are being wormed / medicated, the meds can sicken the pup, definitely.

basically, keeping him from eating poop is a good idea - altho dogs do love herbivore-droppings, 
& IF THE HORSE WASN'T wormed, drenched, or otherwise medicated, horse-droppings 
are rarely a concern. Deer, too, are highly-attractive to dog tastes, & not usually worrying.

WATERFOWL droppings are especially to be avoided: 
ducks often ingest quantities of blue-green algae, which can make toxins that are extremely dangerous, 
plus ducks, geese, swans, etc, carry bacteria which they can tolerate, but will give dogs [especially pups!] 
ferocious diarrhea - sadly, duck-droppings or goose-poop smell delish to dogs, so this is a struggle. 
but if U ever are in a waterfowl area, a leash & vigilant near-observation are strongly suggested - 
if U ever have to share a house with a pup who has duck-doo diarrhea, *U will never forget it, 
nor the odor - Whew! - & the often explosive diarrhea. :sad: :scared:*

Do police the yard/garden for CAT-KILLS: 
small animals or their gut-piles! Don't let the pup ingest those, either: Toxo [Toxoplasma gondii] 
is a little critter carried by many rodents, birds, squirrels, etc, & it's quite commonly in cats' 
G-I tracts if they kill wildlife & eat any part of them. TOXOPLASMOSIS is the infection with the critter, 
& it does truly bizarre things to mice: it makes cat-urine "smell sexy", plus it makes mice, who normally 
avoid large open areas & stay to edges & cover, WALK ABOUT in the open! 
Toxo in humans is strongly-associated with risky behavior: 
over 75% of fatal or severe-injury auto-accidents that involve *speeding*, happen to people 
who test positive for Toxo-exposure. Over 80% of fatal/serious motorcycle-accidents also happen to bikers 
who test + for Toxo-exposure.

The classic Toxo-exposure for ppl is via *eating undercooked or raw meats; garden-soil is another route*.

CAT STOOLS & litter-boxes are unlikely to be exposure-routes for adult-humans; after all, U must 
ingest the stuff! How likely is it that any adult would clean a litter-box, get poop on their hands, 
& eat food without _*washing those hands?!*_ [not very, LOL.] rrr: Any child who cares for 
or handles a cat must be told specifically to wash their hands before eating, & no young child should 
change litter-pans, handle cats with diarrhea, etc; put Kitty in another room with a locked-door, until Puss 
is all better. :yesnod:

OTOH even adults who handle a long-haired cat who may have stool on their petticoats might be at risk - 
but again, simply washing one's hands after handling pets, *especially if U're pregnant or intend 
to become pregnant,* is an obvious & simple precaution.


----------



## Izzie999

Hi,
I have a new Lhasa Apso puppy who is 13 weeks old,we got him at ten weeks old and are having a few issues with toileting. He will go out for a walk and poop but then will come home and pee on the floor. 

I have got rid of newspaper and I have been taking him outside and staying with him while he toilets. I have read all the threads but would love to know if there is something else I need to try. He does not like the crate at all but when I am cooking etc he needs to be somewhere safe as he cannot always be watched.

Thanks in advance

Izzie
might be worth mentioning that when we visited the breeder ,the floor of the puppy area was completely covered in newspaper, I am no expert but surely this teaches them they can go anywhere on the floor?


----------



## leashedForLife

Izzie999 said:


> He does not like the crate at all but when I'm cooking, etc, he needs to be somewhere safe,
> as he cannot always be watched.


re-introduce the crate: Give him a reason to ENTeR ON HIS OWN, for a nice tidbit.

prop the door so that it cannot slam, pinch his waist, bump his butt, etc - a phone-book works well. 
toss a few Pea-Sized treats just inside the door, so he can reach them from outside; put just one or 2 
at the doorway, on the floor. 
praise all investigatory behavior BUT don't go near the crate; he already is likely to associate humans 
approaching the crate with being STUFFED INTO IT, hence stay well-back but use warm, sincere praise.

after the goodies are gone, give him time [minutes, a half-hour, whatever] to think about that, CALL HIS NAME 
[not 'come', just his Sacred Name - which never is paired with scolding, bad events, unhappy things, 
only with Nice Stuff] - let him *see U put down more tiny goodies: * pea-size bits of meat or cheese.
This time, they are all inside the crate, some near the middle, 1 or 2 near the door. Walk away, let him 
approach on his own / praise any investigation & warmly praise EACH PAW entering the crate. 

Give him time to consider this amazing event.

3rd time, 1 treat inside the door, 1 or 2 in the middle, 3 or FOUR in the very back... repeat, until the pup 
happily prances in on his own, goes all the way to the back, eats any treats, U-turns & emerges, unhurried 
and relaxed, eager for the rewards but in no panic to 'escape'.

Work up to closing the door WHILE U stand there, as he eats; then open it when he's finished, 
don't make him wait till he's quite confident & happy in the crate. Then build duration.

See *YouTube* for many videos on happily introducing & habituating a crate. :thumbsup:


----------



## Izzie999

leashedForLife said:


> re-introduce the crate: Give him a reason to ENTeR ON HIS OWN, for a nice tidbit.
> 
> prop the door so that it cannot slam, pinch his waist, bump his butt, etc - a phone-book works well.
> toss a few Pea-Sized treats just inside the door, so he can reach them from outside; put just one or 2
> at the doorway, on the floor.
> praise all investigatory behavior BUT don't go near the crate; he already is likely to associate humans
> approaching the crate with being STUFFED INTO IT, hence stay well-back but use warm, sincere praise.
> 
> after the goodies are gone, give him time [minutes, a half-hour, whatever] to think about that, CALL HIS NAME
> [not 'come', just his Sacred Name - which never is paired with scolding, bad events, unhappy things,
> only with Nice Stuff] - let him *see U put down more tiny goodies: * pea-size bits of meat or cheese.
> This time, they are all inside the crate, some near the middle, 1 or 2 near the door. Walk away, let him
> approach on his own / praise any investigation & warmly praise EACH PAW entering the crate.
> 
> Give him time to consider this amazing event.
> 
> 3rd time, 1 treat inside the door, 1 or 2 in the middle, 3 or FOUR in the very back... repeat, until the pup
> happily prances in on his own, goes all the way to the back, eats any treats, U-turns & emerges, unhurried
> and relaxed, eager for the rewards but in no panic to 'escape'.
> 
> Work up to closing the door WHILE U stand there, as he eats; then open it when he's finished,
> don't make him wait till he's quite confident & happy in the crate. Then build duration.
> 
> See *YouTube* for many videos on happily introducing & habituating a crate. :thumbsup:


Thank you for your great advice,putting it into practise tonight. Have been working on the toilet training all day, we already have progress.

Izzie


----------



## Sophie74

I am very soon collecting a 18 mnth old border collie dog, he is from a working farm in Cumbria, he didn't quite make the grade as a herder but has a lovely character. He has been kennelled at the farm but only as sleeping quarters, not with a run to use as a toilet. 
When he comes to live with us he will live indoors with my other collie who is perfectly housetrained. Is there anything I need to take into consideration when bringing him into the house or should I just make sure he goes out enough and picks up the idea he waits until he is out to do his 'business'?


----------



## namine

Laila will pee in the bathroom or bath if she is desperate and im not about, but Taiya is a rescue, she was abused and apparently locked in one area constantly, shes terrified of strange men, but she slowly learnt to trust me, she's 3 years old, and ive had her about 6 months, ive just got her out of peeing on fabrics, and my bed D: she's usually very good, and has recently started jumping at the front door if she wants to go out, 
But at night she still very often pees and poos over the hallway, which ive noticed, Laila is now trying her luck with (without much approval) some nights she will wait til morning but often i have to let them out at 2am to get her to hold it til 9am, even though at times ive needed to be out from 8am and not returned til late in the night, not often i may add but each time she's held on til im back... 
anyone got any ideas/suggestions? id love to wake up and not have to clean up mess before breakfast!


----------



## Istilla

My Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Benji is 20 weeks old and I was having trouble house training him until I got a clicker which has improved things considerably. The only problem is that he doesn't tell me if he needs out (if I watch him I can usually see that he's beginning to get fidgety etc), but if I have to go upstairs for a minute or two, he will just use the floor. How can I get him to bark or even scratch at the door in order to alert me?


----------



## aldobaggins

Have you tried using a crate at night. Put a nioce comfy bed in a cage for her and encourage her to like her cage with food bribery. THen when she's left in it overnight she hopefully won't toilet in it. Most dogs won't toilet in the cage as they like to keep their bed clean. It's not cruel or a punishment to use a cage at night, it can feel nice and secure with a blanket over the top, bakc and sides (leave the fron t uncovered so she can see out).


----------



## leashedForLife

Istilla said:


> I [had] trouble housetraining... My [5-MO] CKCS, until I got a clicker which has improved things considerably.
> 
> [but] he doesn't tell me if he needs [to go] out (if I watch him I can usually see that he's beginning to get fidgety, etc),
> but if I have to go upstairs for a minute or two, he'll... use the floor.
> 
> How can I get him to bark or even scratch at the door... to alert me?


hang a bell-string on the doorknob, & YOU ring it every time U take him out to potty - 
he should still be going on-leash only, as U must know when he voids, how much, & what 
[urine, stool, both - or neither  ].

Over time, ASK him with excitement to "ring the bells!", & reward him for any nose-touch, paw touch, 
or even at first, merely LOOKING at the bells - U have to start somewhere, :lol:

alternatively, there are battery-operated 'pads' for dogs to step on or paw, which ding, buzz, etc. 
it's the same training process.


----------



## leashedForLife

aldobaggins said:


> Have you tried using a crate at night[?]
> Put a *nice comfy bed* in a [crate] ... & encourage her to like her [crate]
> with *food bribery*.


i wouldn't suggest or use a BED for a dog of any age, who's not yet housetrained - 
for senior dogs who must have a bed but who leak, there are beds which 'drain' thru onto mats, 
or waterproof orthopedic mattresses which provide comfort, but don't absorb waste & stink.

it's not *'bribery'* - it's making happy associations: feed the pup a half-meal inside the closed crate. 
LET THE PUP OUT just as soon as s/he is finished - use the other half of the meal as training rewards. 

toss small [pea-sized or half-pea] high-quality treats into a crate to reward exploring this funny box - 
start with treats at the door, then just inside, then further & further back, finally AT THE BACK WALL - 
& only close the door when the pup's comfy, not zipping out as if they're fleeing a burning building, 



aldobaggins said:


> ...a cage... can feel nice & secure with a blanket over the top, back & sides (leave the front uncovered,
> so she can see out).


i suggest *shipping* AKA *airline-approved* crates, which have solid floors that don't leak, 
split, rust, bend, etc - plus a ROOF & Walls, which make the pup or dog feel more secure. 

plus, shipping crates are the gold-standard for transport, & are terrific as portable 'bedrooms' 
for dogs when evacuated, traveling, visiting, etc. :thumbup:


----------



## cooperlovelove

I have a problem with our labradoodle....he's gorgeous and quite clever so I'm very confused about his housetraining so would appreciate any help

We got him in the summer so the back door was always open and he went to the toilet in the garden most of the time (apart from the odd mistake) but as soon as we shut the back door he would wee and pooh indoors

If i'm in the kitchen he will look out the door to go out and wee but if we are anywhere else in the house, as soon as our backs are turnt he'll go indoors

Now what is confusing me....is if we leave him indoors alone (he has the run of dining room, kitchen and hallway) he rarely has an accident and when we return home...after some fuss...and soooo happy to see us...he will sit by the door to go out...and we can be for several hours

and

we let him out before bedtime, (i know this is naughty but he sleeps in our room with the door shut) and he manages to go all night without any accidents ... up to nine hours

So, he can hold it and I'm running out of ideas...I've tried the letting him out after a nap, after eating and every hour or so....I've tried treat training...I've tried to ask him to 'speak'...and now I've run out of ideas

Can anyone help please.....any ideas anyone??

I love him so much but it's driving me mad!

Thanks Guys xxxx


----------



## Jallywally

Im just new to the forum so I apologise if this has already been answered. I have a 12wk Alaskan Malamute. He is beginning to understand that he doesnt do the toilet in the house but regardless of how long we take him out as soon as he is back in the house he urinates. We have tried the puppy training pads - they didnt work, tried the spray but he doesnt want to go anywhere near it (at first we put it on a training pad but he just walked off then we put it in several spots in the garden but again he doesnt want to go anywhere near it).

We dont know what to do - everything we have tried doesnt work. Its like he holds it in until he gets back in the house.

Any help or information given would be greatly appreciated

xx


----------



## leashedForLife

Jallywally said:


> ...I apologise if this has already been answered.


did U read the thread before posting?  there are links for FREE BOOKS, articles, how-to videos, 
etc - but U have to read the posts to find them, then Click The Links posted.



Jallywally said:


> I have a 12-WO... Malamute.


at 12-WO, he has -just- acquired bladder & bowel sphincters, but has not developed any muscle 
strength to 'retain' / hold a full bladder or full bowel, as fullness creates pressure & strain.

IOW - when full, he can't 'hold it back' yet. He still needs to be scheduled, potty only on leash, etc.

are U getting up on a 3-AM alarm to take him out every night? 
i do this until the pup is 15 to 16-WO, when they can usually be reliably 'dry' & clean all night - 
from 8-WO to at least 15-WO, i set the alarm for 3-AM every night; it takes about 10-mins all told, 
to dress over pjs, slip on my shoes / boots, grab treats, the leash, & CARRY the puppy out, wait, 
reward the pup ON THE SPOT, walk the puppy in on-leash, crate her or him, un-dress & return to bed. :thumbup1:

E-Z & it pays off for 10-years or more...


----------



## Dogs4Evar

Great advice. Thanks a lot!


----------



## kate85

Hi, 

Just got our puppy Stella last week. We have been toilet training her with help from the clicker (which I am amazed with!!!) Obviously she is very young and we are very patient with her but surprisingly she has learnt VERY quickly!! She now only has the occasional accident in the house. However, Night time seems to be a problem for her. Again I know she is young so im not expecting miracles but just wondered if we should be taking her out more often throught the night? We havent been using a crate, just leaving her in the kitchen. Is a crate the best way? and if so, does that mean we need to get up regularly to take her outside?

Thanks Kate x


----------



## merlin39

Sorry if anyone has posted this question, 11 pages is a lot to look through  I may have missed it!
We have an 11wk old cockerpoo pup. During the day she is really good at going outside  we reward and loads of prase but as she is so good she often takes herself out not (we have a dog flap and another dog) so we are really pleased with her! 
The problem is at night. She is crated, for quiet time during the day, and at night. We are getting up at 3 and 6 to toilet her. First few days went well and we didn't have any accidents but now despite toileting her at 11 before bed, she is pooing in the night before 3 sometimes, which means she won't go at 3, or between 3 and 6! Sometimes both! We ignore, clean up change her blankets and pop her back to bed.
Do we need to change anything? Will it just come with time? Our dog never did this, he only messed in his crate when he was poorly.
Advice greatly appreciated, even if it is just to carry on and it will come with time 
Soph


----------



## jasminepennama

Best trainor.. I love pets and i have 2 dogs and 1 cat.. and i trained them by myself, but i plan to have a trainor for a fast result.


----------



## maxine958

Hi, we have had our beagle pup for 2 weeks now (he's 13 weeks old). We have very few accidents in the house....and only because we haven't been keeping an eye on him!! He knows he is meant to go outside and is well rewarded when he does. The question is....how do we get him to tell us he needs to go? He whines when he is in his crate during the night so we know to take him then but during the day he is out in the living room. 
Does anyone have any hints on how to get him to tell us? We never used puppy pads or newspaper so we can't place that near the door to get him to go there. We've also rattled the keys in the door every time we take him out in the hope he would start to do that himself but he hasn't picked that up either.
Also he has started to cock his leg up to pee...seems a bit young to be doing that??


----------



## leashedForLife

maxine958 said:


> We have very few accidents in the house... and only because *we haven't been keeping an eye on him*!


then i'd change that. 


maxine958 said:


> He *knows he is meant to go outside* and is well rewarded when he does.


no, he does not. He's had *sphincter muscles* to close his bladder & bowel for all of one week - 
not only does he have to learn WHERE & WHEN to go, but WHAT IT FEELS LIKE to retain waste, 
plus BUILD SOME MUSCLE to do that. If he already "knew" this, he'd not only be a genius, he'd be 
a super-athlete, having been born with already-developed muscles.  Muscles develop with use.

read the thread, please - there are free books, links to videos & articles, & more.


----------



## Tupples

Apart from all the other forms of training that you give your dog, potty training is the one which takes up time, patience and a lot of energy from your side. It can get frustrating at times and causes you a lot of inconvenience when your new puppy litters your drawing room carpet, but your puppy is not born with the knowledge that it is wrong to dirty the house. Therefore, it is always good to begin potty training your puppy when he/she is 3 to 3.5 weeks old.
Read more about this on my blog-http://tupples.com/index.php/default/blog/disciplined-dog/


----------



## leashedForLife

Tupples said:


> Therefore, it is always good to begin potty training your puppy when he/she is 3 to 3.5 weeks old.


U cannot "begin housetraining" until a puppy is TWELVE weeks old - 
as that's when they have working sphincter muscles on bladder & bowel.

before that, they're on a *schedule* - plus, at 3 to 3.5-WO, mom-dog still eats their pee & poop, 
since they are still in the nest! They're not even walking, yet.


----------



## hahgiwoofa

excellent thread, thanks

Paddy is 8 months and seems to do some days/nights without probs, then some days/nights we have accidents, I can't find a pattern to it

I'm doing all the tips on here, Should he be fully trained by now?


----------



## clairefun

Hi all,

Have read through the whole thread with interest - that took a while! 

My 5 month old beagle pup Kimber is doing pretty well in general, but we have an odd question I've not seen covered in the thread. She is dry overnight and has been for a long time, so no nightime issues. Hubby takes her out in the morning and she does her business, I take her out throughout the day every 1.5-2 hours depending on routine (school run, visits etc) and we have no issues at all, and no accidents for ages, inclding days where we visit my mum and take her out 3 or 4 times between 9am-3pm. Obviously she can hold it, and knows to go outdoors.

However! The early evening is our problem - after about 5, half 5 or so, she has little spates where she will wee about 3-4 times an hour. Some days we see signs and take her out (she's always outside on lead as she's a beagle!) and some days it coincides with our dinnertime and so we don't notice, and end up clearing up lots of puddles of various sizes. Sometimes we've seen her squat with no signs beforehand. She stops by about 9.30 - 10 and goes back to only weeing when she 'should' every time we take her out say every 1.5 hrs. She always wees and poos before bed with no issues and like I say, is fine all night. 

Any ideas? My husband comes home at about half five but I'm honestly not sure why that would make any difference - although I'm main caregiver, I've been known to leave her with him, he walks her the days he can, etc. They're good friends, and she shows no signs of anxiety or anything. She's a happy little thing and enjoys her obedience classes, likes to play & chew her toys, loves walks, etc. This is our only real issue and certainly the only thing we have no idea how to help with, or how we've encouraged it!

Look forward to hearing everyones ideas
x x


----------



## CherryO

Can anyone please help as im having some right dramas with my little dog!
Shes 2, a minature jack russel and just gorgeous.
lately she has took to peeing in the house/ on the couch and spare bed. 
I got her at 9weeks old and she picked up training really well, we had few accidents in the house and she'd been pretty much fine since then.
However there has been a few pretty big changes in hers(and my) life in the last 6- 8 months, first my partner left the army and came home permenantly (the first year we had her he was normally home on weekends or away on tour)
then 3 months ago we moved to a bigger house as i found out i was pregnant.
Since moving to this new house the peeing has started, it wasnt so much at first, just the odd time if we popped out (we try not to leave her alone for long amounts of time) then she started doing it if our backs were turned and in front of us even if she had just been out and the door was open, sometimes its like shes marking but other times they are full on wees, its getting so bad now that shes doing it nearly everyday, sometimes she'll have been outside for ages in the yard then will come in and pee, just this morning she was out for a while then came in and peed on the couch.
I believe it could have a lot to do with there been big changes with our life and its disrupted her (a few friends have said she might sense my pregnancy and be anxious/upset about it).
I just want to know how i can make it better for her, and have her happy, im a believer that a lot of whats going on is the fault of me amd my partner (especially as he believes in telling her off by rubbing her nose in it which i disagree with massivly and go mad if i catch him doing it) 
Shes a amazing dog and part of our family, and i would love to know how to put a stop th this and have a happier dog, i love her to bits. PLEASE HELP!!! thanks xx


----------



## leashedForLife

CherryO said:


> ... 3 mos ago, we moved to a bigger house, as i found i was pregnant.
> 
> Since moving to this new house the peeing [began], it wasn't so much at first, just the odd time
> if we popped out (we try not to leave her alone for long [periods], *then she started [to pee] if our backs
> were turned, & in front of us - even if she'd just been out & the door was open,
> sometimes its like she's marking... other times they are full-on wees, it's getting so bad now that
> she's doing it nearly every day, sometimes she'll have been outside for ages in the yard, then will come in
> & pee*, just this morning *she was out for a while, then came in & peed on the couch*.


 has she seen a VET recently?

that she pees right in front of U is often a tip-off to a bladder or kidney infection - these can be 
SUBclinical, IOW they may not have clinical symptoms, so if it were my dog, i'd take her in for an occult 
urine-sample & have it *cultured* - actually smear some on an Agar plate, & set it to grow 
in a warming-cabinet, to see what develops.

if there ARE critters causing a problem, far-better to find out which critters & treat specifically. :thumbup1:
a generic antibiotic these days can make things worse rather than better, by hardening the 
microbe-popn which survives to breed, & making them more resistant.

there is also a MULTIPLY-RESISTANT strain of urinary cystitis which is spreading globally among 
humans - [mostly female humans] - inevitably, it will also become endemic in dogs, as they live with us 
in such intimacy.

I'd suggest a urine-culture - & i'd mention multiply-resistant cystitis to my vet, too.


----------



## Montypie

Good morning!!

I am new to this site and would love some advice please.

I have a gorgeous miniature Yorkshire Terrier puppy who is 10 weeks old. I got him at 7 weeks, his breeder said he was 'paper trained'.

I have been really impressed with him until this last week or so whereby he seems to have taken a step backwards 

For example this morning, he was yapping/crying loudly downstairs in his crate at 6.00 am. I got up and put him straight out, he did a really long wee :biggrin:..I praised him verbally and with a treat.

He came in and disappeared into the hall as i made my cup of tea, i quickly went to get him and found him squatting on the front door mat ::frown2: doing a poo!!! I picked him up, said 'no' and put him outside shutting the door. I cleaned up the poop and he was crying outside....I let him in and came onto the computer seeking advice - AND HERE I AM!!!!

WHY?? would he do that when he has just been outside to pee.:confused5: I haven't even fussed him yet this morning as I was told yesterday that first thing there should be no fuss, just put him out which I did!!

He is in a crate and can go all night wothout soiling it.

PLEASE, can someone comment on this. THANK YOU.

Gina aka Montypie


----------



## leashedForLife

Montypie said:


> [my] *miniature* Yorkie... is 10-WO. I got him at 7-wks, his breeder said he was 'paper trained'.


BTW - there's no such thing as a "mini" Yorkie; that's a toy-breed, & mini or teacup is just 
an expensive way of saying, "runt" - which can mean serious health-problems, so i hope U did not 
buy a runt for an inordinate amount of money.

it doesn't matter that he's paper-trained; 1st, he has to HAVE the PAPER available to use, 
& 2nd, it teaches a pup to toilet indoors - which is only useful if U want the dog to toilet 
indoors for life. 


Montypie said:


> ...this morning, he was *yapping / crying loudly downstairs in his crate at 6.00 am*.


are U setting an alarm for 3-am each night? If not, why not? 
pups can't wait for 6 to 8 hours to pee; he needs to go out at least once duyring the night, 
& MAKING the puppy cry to get out of his crate makes the crate a 'bad place', too - U don't want to 
make bad acssociations of crate = trap; crate should = relax, safe, home, security. 


Montypie said:


> I got up and *put him straight out*, he did a really long wee :biggrin: ... I praised him verbally
> & [gave him] a treat.


when U say, PUT him out - do U let him out solo, or stay out there with him? 
He should be on leash for potty-trips so that he becomes accustomed to toileting on a 6-ft leash, 
as well as keeping him close-enuf to see how much & what he produces, & U should be there to offer 
praise & treats for performance, right on the spot. Giving a treat after he enters the house is pointless - 
'we aren't rewarding "enter", we're rewarding pee/ stool in the right place, at the right time - when taken out.


Montypie said:


> He came in and *disappeared into the hall* as i made my cup of tea,
> i quickly went to get him and found him squatting on the front door mat ::frown2: doing a poo!


Whose fault was that? 
he's 10-WO - he won't have functioning sphincters on bowel & bladder for 2 more weeks! 
he CANNOT be left unsupervised outside his crate at all - period; he is crated, or he is directly 
under Ur eye; there are no other options. 


Montypie said:


> He is in a crate and can go all night without soiling it.


he is crated at night in another area of the house, so U can't respond if he gets sick or scared - 
or if there were an emergency [fire, etc] how would U get to him? What if the stairs were blocked?

he can "go all night", IOW wait --- UNTIL 6-AM, when he began to cry. Ideally, he'd be taken out
*before* he was forced to cry by the pressure in his bladder or bowels, which is why a schedule 
is strongly recommended.

please read the thread, CLICK THE LINKS & read the articles, & download the 2 free books at DogStarDaily.


----------



## leashedForLife

pjchary6481 said:


> If anyone really wanna train your pup or dog. I found a great website...
> 
> http:// *hop.clickbank.net/? *


_Spam. DON'T click that link._


----------



## Staffyqueens

My cat Wilbur pees in the bath, it started when he wasn't well with a bladder infection the urine had blood in it, the vet was pleased as I was able to get a sample. He is a very intelligent cat though and never makes a fuss at the vet:wink5:

Not too long ago was watching a movie (trying to finish it even though I knew the dogs probably needed to go out for a wee) and when it was done I went to the kitchen and saw Nero sitting in the corner with his ears back the way he does when I'm angry about something...very strange as as far as I knew he hadn't done anything wrong!

I looked around to see if there was a mess around or anything he might have done and nothing. Strange. I kept walking and checked the bathroom. Nothing. Very strange. Just as I was about to leave the bathroom I moved the shower curtain back and sure enough there was a clear trail of pee in the bathtub!! Have apparently inadvertently trained my dog to pee in the shower if he needs to go in the house!!

Crazy dogs they really do the funniest things sometimes[/QUOTE]


----------



## pyjamaparty

I have read (I think!) every page on this thread, but I just wanted to know how to deal with a rain phobic dog!!

He's an 8 month old collie, seems pretty well house trained now apart from when it rains or has been raining when he refuses to go outside.

We're wondering whether it's the slate type gravel and the deck in the garden? (we're renting) whether it's retaining smell?
We pick up poo as soon as it is left (where possible).

Just not sure what we can do to help him overcome his aversion.
We know it's not malicious or his fault (he's a baby after all!) but just wondering how to tackle it?

We accompany him into garden - rather drag him to garden- when it's raining and he just stands looking miserable for as long as we can bear to be out there!
We then crate him if he doesnt eliminate, and repeat the outside trip every half hour till he does go, then we praise and treat etc.

It would be so nice not to have to subject him to this though, so any ideas would be gratefully received.

(we have two other older dogs who have shown him where and how to behave with everything else!!!)

Thanks in advance

Sarah


----------



## Shiningstone

I taught my Duno when he was a pup to pee outside, Now hes two years old and well behaved, If he needs to pee he always shows by action.

Teach pups when they are small, when they do bad show that you are arrogant and when they do good treat them with something yummy and tap to make them feel good about it.


----------



## leashedForLife

Shiningstone said:


> Teach pups when they are small,
> when they do bad [actions], *show that you are arrogant*... _???_


i don't know what that's spozed to mean, but i'd skip being "arrogant". 
i suggest Mgmt to prevent unwanted behaviors, instead; make the Right action E-Z, 
& all un-wanted actions as difficult to accomplish as possible. 


Shiningstone said:


> ...when they do good [actions], treat them with something yummy... [to] make them feel good about
> [those behaviors, & want to repeat them].


stick to this one, & avoid side-effects. :thumbup:


----------



## russelgrane

I think one should go for that pup, old dog would be kind of smart and will lay down on the floor, but the would not be able to manage his patience. Training pup would be smart way to handle this scenario.


----------



## manda32

I have a 7 month old springer/boxer and is just abt house trained but will not go out for anything if itis raining and then messes in the house


----------



## Siddog

I too have a 7 month old, a lurcher. He can go all night fine but will still wee and poo in the house. He is fine if the back door is open but will go on the floor if it is shut. Not sure what to do and getting desperate and as he is not reliable is difficult to take him to anybody else's home. Have done the not telling him off thing but this doesn't seem to work as I think he feels it is ok to wee and poo in house - go crazy with good boy, treats etc when he does it outside. Help please!!!


----------



## leashedForLife

Siddog said:


> [my] 7-MO lurcher... can go all night [dry & clean], but will still wee and poo in the house.
> 
> [snip]
> *Have done the not telling him off thing but this doesn't seem to work,
> as I think he feels it is ok to wee and poo in-house - *
> 
> i go crazy with good boy, treats etc when he does it outside. Help please!


Telling a dog off for pee or stool in the house only creates a shy eliminator: 
dogs who WON'T void when on leash, or in the presence of ppl. [sometimes if U are lucky, 
it's only the specific person who has punished the dog in the past - but often it's EVERYone, 
even the vet-tech will not be able to collect a urine-specimen when U need one.  ]

make a place for him to stay when not supervised; TIGHTEN his supervision.

* confine him to a shipping crate or dog-proof zone, whenever he is not supervised

* SUPERVISE him when he is out of his zone, & U are at home - that means in the same room, 
under the direct eyeballs of a grown-up human, not in the room with hubby watching a finals soccer match. 
 just being "there" doesn't count; if U can't watch him, put him in his zone.


----------



## JoLou

Hi,

We have two wonderful dogs. Pedersen who is our 15 mth old chunky choc labrador & Kenya our 6mth old cross collie, lab, whippet. Both are pretty well behaved & no problem other than when it comes to toileting.

To be fair Pedersen has been fully trained for around 5 - 6 mth now, he still used his paper spot if desperate until he was about 12mth. The problem with him now is that when our other dog Kenya has her accidents of the wee variety he immediately wees on top of it! I can understand why he does this and know that if Kenya wasn't weeing there in the first place he wouldnt either & that Kenyas inability to house train, or more likely my inability to house train her is the real issue!

We have tried everything to try and get Kenya to house train but absolutely nothing seems to work. The only thing i haven't done is shouted or smacked her and this i will never do, i don't believe in it! 

She appears to know that soiling in the house is wrong as she runs off and hides when she has done it and shakes. She is of quite a nervous disposition but i dont know why. She came to us at 11 week old and nobody has ever hurt her or shouted at her, i'm with her for nearly 24/7. 

Sometimes when she soils she goes off out of eyesight to do it and other times is blatant. For example the other morning we got up and she ran into the living room to greet my husband and then proceeded to wee on his feet. She has also wee'd on the bed pillows, the bed and virtually every room in the house. 

When out on walks she will wee but has only poohed once in 3month of walks. She saves the pooh until we go back indoors no matter how long we stay out. 

We live in a flat above our pub so we dont have a garden we can just go out into with them, every outdoor excursion is leashed and supervised. 

I don't know if it has anything to do with it but she has proved quite difficult to train in other areas too. Her only basic command is sit and even that she ignores on a regular basis. I have spent lots of time with her trying to teach her others such as 'down', 'paw', 'stay', etc but she just doesnt seem to get it. 

It is all starting to cause problems for my husband and i now as he is losing patience with Kenya whilst i am still hopeful everything with my input and his of course will click into place for her. 

I spend several hours a week deep cleaning the carpets so the house doesnt smell but i can guarantee that as soon as i put the cleaner away she'll wee. 

She is such a lovely dog in all other other aspects as is Pedersen and they are my prince and princess and constant companions and shadows, hell i dont even go to the bathroom alone lol. However if i cant house train Kenya i don't know what we are going to do.

Please help.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## captainpugwash

Hi everyone,

Newbie here. Anyhow, been looking through this thread for some devine intervention, or at least some suggestions.
Rescued a really nice GSD about 8 weeks ago. He's been as good as gold considering his circumstances. 
Anyway, for some reason, he has suddenly decided it's acceptable to soil in the house, even when the door is open to allow him access to the garden.

He's very clever, giving an indication that he needs to go, and obligingly I will open the lounge door where he is keeping the family company, and he will then go outside, do a pee, then promptly come in and leave a deposit inside the house:mad2:.

Prior to the last week, he has only done this once, and that on his first day here, so I was expecting it then. But I am at a loss as to why he has suddenly developed this habit.

He gets 3 to 4 good walks daily, when he is happy to do his business when on the lead and nothing has changed in the house that could cause him stress.

He sleeps in a crate in the same area where he has started depositing, which makes it even stranger.

He seems to have some awareness that it is unacceptable behaviour as he puts on that doggie sheepish look that I'm sure we all would recognise.

So, in desperation, (well not quite yet, but getting there), anyone any tips/tricks to try and break what seems to be becoming a habit?

Thanks for listening.

CP


----------



## hahgiwoofa

Ok, I'm major confused

We've just been on holiday for 2 weeks in a chalet that has had dogs in previously and Paddy, now nearly 10 months old, and not a single accident.
First day back and he wees twice in the hallway.

I always clean it up, and get rid of the smell with special dog odour remover, what am I doing wrong with our house?


----------



## leashedForLife

captainpugwash said:


> Rescued a really-nice GSD about 8-weeks ago. He's been good as gold, considering his circs.
> ...for some reason, *he's suddenly decided it's OK to soil in the house, even when the door is open
> to allow him access to the garden.*


1st fault: 
he's only been with U for 2-mos; U don't mention what U did for toileting routines when he arrived; 
U don't mention his age [over 6-mos? over 12-mos?], his repro-status [intact or desexed?], 
nor his past or previous diet. This makes it hard for us to offer good suggestions. 

2nd fault: 
*Putting it on the DOG to get himself out the door, & void while solo. Bad idea.* :frown:
Don't make him go out alone; leash him & go along to see What he produces, How much, & Note any 
unusual qualities: color, consistency, pink tinge to the urine [blood], straining to void, non-food bits 
in the stool [plastic, food-wrap, toy-stuffing...], soft stool, MUCUS wrapper on the stool - which indicates 
a faster-than-normal transit thru the gut, looks like a clear sticky wrapper, & indicates anxiety or emotional 
distress.

if U don't Go ALong, U miss all that information, Plus U aren't there to reward him when he stools - 
IMO that's essential to build a reliable housetraining habit. If more than One Person is responsible 
for his toilet-trips, U need to log his trips, what he produces, & any oddities, so the other folks know when 
he was last out, did he urinate or stool, & how soon he's likely to need another trip - Don't wait for the dog 
to TELL U, set him up so that he's going out at least every 2-hours while someone is at home, on-leash.
A simple write-on / wipe-off whiteboard on the frig is cheap & easy; note the time, pee/poop, any details: 
normal, sloppy, gassy, etc.

THIRDLY - 
when U go with him, it's easy to teach him to *void on cue -*
which is really, really handy for emergencies & for travel. :thumbsup:

- his early toileting routine on arrival SHOULD HAVE BEEN on-leash every time, on a schedule - 
just like a puppy, after every *trigger:* awakening from a nap, as soon as he is awake AM, 
within 20-mins after a full meal or large drink, immediately-after any *exciting event*
[visitors arrive, meeting a new dog / new person when out walking, after active play...], 
& so on; plus just-prior to bed, as late as possible.

- how old is he?

- is he desexed? 
intact-males can use stool as well as urine to mark; Anxiety can prompt marking, & GSDs are notorious 
as worry-warts. 

- what did he eat before U got him?
what does he eat now? 
GSDs are also notorious for *gut issues:* poor digestion, poor absorption, or both, 
AND being emotionally-sensitive / showing upset by getting diarrhea, sudden changes in gut motility 
[motility is 'how fast does food / post-absorption stool TRANSIT the gut: go from stomach to small-bowel, 
& small-bowel to large-bowel, to anus?], nausea, gassy-guts, & other uncomfortable or messy issues.


captainpugwash said:


> He [indicates] he needs to go, & *obligingly I will open the lounge door*... he will then go outside,
> ...pee, then promptly come in & [stool indoors]. :mad2:.
> 
> Prior to the last week, he only [did] this once, & that on his first day here, so I was expecting it then.
> But I am at a loss as to why he has suddenly developed this habit.


it could be any of a number of things: 
the above gut issues, emotional-upset, OVER-ATTACHMENT - which GSDs are also prone to - 
a change outside in the environs has him worried & he's afraid to be vulnerable while stooling...

SUGGESTION: 
do precisely what U should have done when he first arrived, as above: all potty-trips ON LEASH, 
accompanied; reward him On The Spot for every outdoor-elimination, & don't be cheap: not kibble, 
but high-quality, low-fat, high-protein SMALL treats: pea-sized to half-pea sized bits of tuna, 
skinless / boneless chicken or turkey, diced beef, or freeze-dried meats: lamb-lung, liver, etc.

he should be on a 6-ft long leash, Not an extendable but a regular leash with a wrist-loop; if he's shy, 
give him the full length & turn Ur back while he squats. ::shrug:: Whatever works - but *present the treat* 
right under his nose, AS SOON as he stands-up, before he takes a step forward; U need to connect 
the ACT of stooling with the payoff, so that he understands what behavior is being rewarded.

Does that make sense? 
is it do-able?

additionally, when he's indoors, MAKE SURE he's in the same room as an adult & supervised; 
if he starts to circle / arc & sniff, GET HIM OUTSIDE - wear the leash if U need to, so it's handy. 
Don't scold him or punish him in any way; that's the fastest way to create a *shy-eliminator* 
who refuses to stool in the presence of any human, for fear of being punished. 

U can keep his treats in the freezer in a larger container, remove a daily allotment for the frig, 
& take a small quantity along on EVERY potty-trip, so that when he goes, U've got them - then pop the rest 
back into the frig on the way in. :thumbup: Easy-peasy.

Please let us know how he gets on?


----------



## xxlaylalooxx

Hi guys so have read the above thread, i have a 5 month old miniture dachshund. Sometimes i dont know if he has actually got the hang of toilet training or not. We have really good days with him where he will go outside and do his buisness or go into his crate and do it on his puppy pad. Other days its constant accidents with him as if he is just being lazy or generally doesnt know where he is supposed to go its so confusing. 
He always gets praised and treats when he goes outside and when he comes inside from doing a toilet he wags his tail and runs to the cuboard where his treats are. Am i asking to much for him to be fully toilet trained at 5 months? is this normal? i know dachshunds have a reputation of taking alot longer to train! any advice would be great. xx


----------



## leashedForLife

xxlaylalooxx said:


> We have really good days with him where he will go outside and do his business
> or *go into his crate & [void] on his puppy pad.*
> 
> Other days its constant accidents with him as if he is just being lazy or generally doesnt know
> where he is supposed to go -- it's so confusing.


Why do U Want him to use his crate as a toilet?! 
i'm totally confused; the crate is used cuz dogs DON't want to void where they sleep. 
Asking the pup to deliberately *break* their cleanliness instinct ["don't pee or poop where U sleep"] 
is IMO a recipe for future disaster. 

i'd move the puppy-pad OUT of the crate, or get rid of it altogether - Unless U want to potty-train indoors? 
If U want him to void outdoors exclusively, the pad is only adding confusion - & the location is IMO a bad idea.


xxlaylalooxx said:


> He always gets praised & treats when he [voids?] outside...


does he get the goody ON THE SPOT, as soon as he has completed voiding? 
IOW, he doesn't run To U nor does he walk from the spot to be treated?

ideally, he is just standing from a squat & is in the same place, when he is rewarded with a treat - 
or a jackpot of several tiny treats [high value, 1/2-pea size to pea-sized].



xxlaylalooxx said:


> ...& when he comes inside [after voiding], he wags his tail & runs to [his treat] cupboard...
> Am i asking to much for him to be fully toilet trained at 5 months?


the AVERAGE is age in months + 1 = max-number of hours between potty-trips *without* any triggers.

triggers mean an immediate potty-trip: 
- after a meal to urinate; approx 20 to 30-mins after a meal, again - to stool.
- after active play 
- any exciting event [visitor, meets another dog / person, etc] 
- waking from sleep 
- after a big drink.

he's 5-MO; can he go for 6-hours during the day, dry & clean, WITHOUT triggers?
most 5-MO pups can go for 8-hours overnight clean & dry, if they are healthy & have been taken out 
*immediately before* going to bed, on a leash, & supervised to be sure they void.

*try logging trips out & what's produced*; When, How Much, & What [solid or liquid].
post a sheet on the frig-door or on the door to the garden / yard.


----------



## Cleopatra2

very nice tips in this thread, I'm going to try some of them


----------



## Siddog

Just want to say have been reading this thread and thank you for the help! It is appreciated.


----------



## Siddog

Hi, I posted before about my lurcher who still wees and poos in the house. Just to say thank you for this thread, I have added it to favourites and will keep referring to it. I am now wondering if we did the wrong thing this summer in leaving the back door open. Sid is now 9 months and pretty much ok if he can take himself outside and not too bad at night if whoever goes to bed last makes sure to go out with him and say 'wee wee' a lot (he will go on command quite often) - but he is not good at telling us when he wants to go if the door is shut. 

Given that it's now getting chilly and we will finally have to give in and shut the door, I guess I need to go back to going out with him every time? Is there any point is putting bell type arrangement or something on the door and trying to train him to use this as I have read some people do? 

He is quite an intelligent dog, I think he has some collie in him and he does communicate wanting to go out for a walk by barking! Just not weeing!


----------



## porps

hi everyone. 
My flatmate has a staff cross who is about 6months old now. When they moved in she wasnt really housetrained but we've managed to get her trained thanks in no small part to the advice in this thread.

The only problem she has now is excitement weeing... someone new comes in and makes a fuss of her and she has a little wee in the excitement. It's normal i suppose but the strange thing is it seems to be getting worse over time rather than better - for example, earlier i went to the toilet... when i came out she was waiting outside the door. i greeted her, told her she was a good girl for waiting nice and gave her a little stroke and then she did one of her little excitement wees. Yesterday a neighbour called round to borrow a hammer and Flo wee'd on the neighbours foot in her excitement. 

Does anyone have any advice for eliminating this problem?

Thanks


----------



## novachaya

This is good advice....I am looking after my mums new jack russell puppy while she is at work...I've never trained a puppy before so I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. 

The problem is that he will go in his bed if he needs to go...he's done it twice now. The first time, he woke up, stretched and immediatley wee'd. The second time he was on his own, he wasn't left very long, prob half an hour, and hadn't just been fed. 

He doesn't like going outside...who can blame him...it's cold and wet at the moment. I wait with him, encouraging him gently, he sniffs around a bit, then starts whining, and scratching the door to go back inside. After 5 mins he starts shivering and shaking, he is only tiny and it is v chilly. I wait 5 mins and go back inside, then he potters around with me watching and straight away does a wee. I say 'toilet' when goes so he learns what it means...then take him straight outside and say it again, so he knows he should do it outside. But when I take him out after sleeping or eating and about once every hour, the cycle starts again!

It's hard to catch him before he does it...even when I have, and have taken him straight outside, he won't wee till he's let back into the warm again! 

He is very young, the sellers said 8 weeks, but my mum reckons he's about 6 or 7 weeks. His mum had died and the puppies were on their own. 

Is it just too early for him to get it? Also should I pick him up to take him outside when he starts to go, or wait till he's finished? Don't want him to end up stressed about going to the toilet! 

Sorry this has ended up being a very long post!


----------



## leashedForLife

novachaya said:


> I am looking after my mum's new JRT-pup while she's at work. I've never trained a puppy before
> so I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing.
> 
> ...he will [void] in his bed, if he needs to go; he's done it twice now.
> The first time, *he woke up, stretched, & immediatley wee'd.
> The 2nd time he was on his own, [not] left very long, prob half an hour, & hadn't just been fed. *
> 
> He doesn't like going outside [ATM], who can blame him; it's cold & wet.
> I wait with him, encouraging him gently, he sniffs around a bit, then starts whining,
> & scratching the door to go back inside. After 5 mins he [shivers & shakes], he is only tiny
> & it is v chilly. I wait 5-mins & [we] go back inside, then he potters around with me watching
> & straight away [he'll pee]. *I say 'toilet' [while he's voiding,] so he learns what it means;
> then I take him straight outside & say it again, so he knows he should do it outside. *
> But when I take him out after sleeping or eating & about once every hour, the cycle starts again!
> 
> It's hard to catch him before he does it... even when I [succeed], & take him straight outside,
> he won't wee till he's let back into the warm again!
> 
> He's very young, the sellers said 8-WO, but my mum reckons he's about 6 or 7 weeks.
> His mum had died & the pups were on their own.
> Is it just too early for him to get it?
> Also should I pick him up to take him outside when he starts to [void],
> or wait till he's finished? Don't want him to end up stressed about going to the toilet!


i'm sorry it took me so long to reply, it's been a frustrating kinda day. 

first, as he's very small & young, i'd take him out often for short times - 
he's approx 6 to 7-WO, that's under 2-months. The rough rule is pups can wait a maximum 
of their AGE IN MONTHS + 1 = # of hours between potty-trips, *without* triggers - 
triggers include Waking from sleep, Eating a meal or a large drink, Active play, & Exciting events; 
any of those adds another immediate potty-trip.

i'd skip labeling the action when he begins to void indoors - just pick him up briskly, carry him out,
set him down gently, & WAIT - don't say anything, just let him recover from his surprise.
he should go back to voiding in just a minute or two; warmly but quietly praise him, have a goody 
on hand to offer as soon as he stands up & before he takes one step! :thumbup:

All potty-trips should be on leash so that he has 6-ft max of radius to void - 
U just stand there, don't walk about, be a post & dead-boring, LOL.
Potty-trips are for emptying bladder & bowels; any walkies, even inside his own garden, 
should be reserved for After he voids, as part of his reward. He straightens from his squat, 
U have been warmly & calmly praising him ["Po-o-o-otty, good boy..." -- Now's the time to use Ur label], 
& just as soon as that puppy-bottom lifts, a lovely goody appears right in front of his nose! A miracle.

A whole series of tiny but high-quality treats, delivered rapid-fire as fast as the pup swallows, 
is called a 'Jackpot' & makes a big impression on young k9 minds. The goodies should be 
no larger than a garden pea, or even half-a-pea sized, but very delicious & smelly - pouch tuna, 
fine diced chicken [skinless], minced leftover beef, low-fat cheeses like Mozz, lickables such as 
organic plain yogurt or cream cheese [low-fat AKA neufchatel], etc.

dry commercial treats such as freeze-dried liver, lamb-lung, whitefish, etc, are good, too.
Whatever U choose, POCKET it on the way out of the house; a larger stock in the freezer, 
& a small sandwich bag ready to go in the frig-door, is one easy option; pick it up on the way out, 
put it back as U come in. :yesnod:

As he's approx 6-WO, U have at least 6-weeks of *scheduling* ahead before he gets 
working sphincters on bladder & bowel, & can begin actual housetraining: learn what it feels like 
to have a full bowel or bladder, & building the muscle-tone to retain it despite pressure.
U've got 2-weeks of every-2-hours out to potty - more often, as he goes out after waking, 
meals / drinks, active play, & exciting moments.

Once he's 8-WO, he can wait 3-hours between potty truips, PLUS after any trigger, of course. 
Most pups are dry & clean thru the night by between 15 & 20-WO; daytimes take longer, 
as that's when they eat, play, meet other dogs / people, go places, etc - triggers.


----------



## novachaya

Thanks for the advice it is appreciated, I'll try it all .... the toughest bit will be to get my parents to carry it on in the same way after work!


----------



## leashedForLife

novachaya said:


> .... the toughest bit will be [getting] my parents to carry it on, in the same way, after work!


i know exactly what U mean -  whenever more than 1 person is involved, everything gets more complex.

the bummer is that pups & dogs, or really any persons, need a consistent rule or routine, if they are to 
successfully establish a GOOD new-habit; we want 'hold it & potty outside' to become really habitual, 
but in the early days, only consistency on the humans' parts can give the pup a clue what's wanted, 
& then the penny drops! :thumbup: If it's inconsistent & no good routine is set up, the pup is set up to fail.
then folks get mad at the puppy, but it's not the pup's fault... here's a goody, post this on the wall:


> _The puppy is never to blame for housetraining mistakes.
> Every error is the fault of the adult who was supervising, at the time.
> Keep a rolled magazine on hand, & when the pup voids indoors,
> the grown-up minding the puppy is to hit themselves on the head,
> repeating, "I will get the puppy outside after every trigger,
> & according to the Schedule. [whap!] I will get the puppy outside..."_


Suggestion: 
- hang a paper on the 'frig door; list the TIMES he's to go out, have a space to INITIAL who took him, 
another for *S*olid or *L*iquid, Ounces [liquid or volume], & a space for NOTES - 
diarrhea, plastic bits in poop, pink [trace of blood] in urine, etc.

- Now, with one glance, U can see when he was last out, who took him, what he produced, 
& if there's anything unusual. :thumbsup: ADD A COLUMN for recording errors: What time it was, 
& who was in charge; if he 'always' pees in the hall on Dad's watch, something's awry. Now U can 
figure out what is causing the mistakes more easily: is Dad falling asleep on duty, distracted by the footie 
on the telly, or waiting too long to get the pup outside? If Dad's too sleepy after 9-pm, maybe Mum could 
take over then, & Dad can cover early-AM while she's in the shower & dressing. Whatever works!

- If U set them aside & save them, U can also see patterns - how long after a meal he's likely to stool, 
what time he sleeps & wakes, & how much he's improved: in 2-weeks time, how much longer can he wait 
for a potty-trip? ... YIKES! *I forgot,* overnight U should be taking him out at 3-AM to pee - assuming 
that U keep sort-of normal hours, approx 11-pm or midnight to bed, & up at 7 or 8-ish?... 
Set an alarm, specific directions are further up the thread. 

Also, go to DogStarDaily website & download the two FREE books: 
_'Before U Get Ur Puppy'_ & _'After U Get Ur Puppy'_ - 
they're chock-full of helpful tips on socialization, housetraining & Teaching a Soft-Mouth [inhibited bite], 
which last is crucial for JRTs - they tend to be snappy lifelong, so bite-inhibition is very, very important!
that way when the dog Does bite, there's no damage, just a bruise, or at least "less" damage, 
vs a full-on uninhibited bite, which is incredibly bloody & does a lot of injury in seconds.

Let us know how he gets on - puppies learn so much, they are little sponges for soaking up lessons, 
our main job is to ensure that what they learn is what we want them to learn, not the unintended "oops".


----------



## pazubb

Hi everyone
I have a slightly different situation here - please help.

I have a crossed jack russell + westie who has just turned one. When he was a pup, we were living in a flat in london hence not much opportunity to train him to wee outdoors. So he was trained to wee on papers indoor which he is now doing perfectly fine. 

However, we have now move out of london and I would like to train him to hold and do his stuffs outdoors. I have tried taking him out every hour or two and he does go when in the park; but when he goes indoor again, he still does it on papers (or even on bare floor when I tried to stop his habit of weeing on papers by taking the papers away).

I am sure he is now old enough to hold his wee/poo for a few hours or longer (coz sometimes he doesnt go even if we've been out of hours). I just find it hard to convert his routine of doing it on papers to doing it outdoors.

Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## alice2012

hey...

All though we only bought our 8 week old Jack Russell on the 4th of this month we are having problems with his toileting. We are having to toilet train him inside at the moment as he has only had his first jab, and we have two other dogs downstairs. He will get into his litter tray sit there for a minute then he will get out and do his business elsewhere, when he does this we do not say anything we just move him into his tray then praise him but it's not working he is still intent on going near his litter tray. We have brought him lots of toys to chew on but he's already starting to try to attack our feet!!! and shows little interest in his toys. oh and one more thing lol the barking yes he is a Jack Russell and as alot of people know they are yappy but how can we train him not to bark?

Looking forward to hearing back from someone that can help before we loose control of his behaviour completely.....As I said I do know it's still very early days but i'm pretty sure there is more that we can do. 
= D


----------



## aldobaggins

if you have a garden and he's had his first jab I would be training him to use the garden. The other dogs won't be an infection danger if they are fully vaccinated - just don't let him on the ground where you know other dogs who you cant be sure of being vaccinated have been. 
He's a baby and mouthing your feet is natural. I would make a yelp noise as if you were another puppy he's hurting when he does it. Let him be around the other dogs - they will keep him in line. 
As to barking - JRs along with some other breeds are quite barky. concentrate on the basics just now - toileting/mouthing. When he's a wee bit older work on the barking by calling his attention gently and offering a small treat immediately he stops barking. You could combine calling his name with a visual signal for shh or shh sound and reward immediately. I'm still working on this with my hysterical barking poodle age 16months!


----------



## leashedForLife

alice2012 said:


> hey...
> 
> [Although] we only bought our 8-WO JRT on the 4th of this month, we're having problems with [housetraining].


it's only been 3 days & 2 nights, so far.  BTW, he's only 2-months old - he can't be housetrained, 
IOW begin to HOLD his urine or stool, til he's 12-WO with urinary & bowel sphincters under conscious 
control; from 6-WO until 12-WO, he must be *scheduled* & taken out regularly by the clock, 
PLUS at any time he has a triggering event - Triggers include: 
- wake from a nap 
- eat a meal, or take a large drink 
- after active play [romp with a toy, running about...]
- exciting events [meet a stranger, meet another dog...]

i agree with the above poster, i would NOT train him to an indoor location; i'd just potty-train him 
to go directly outdoors, & skip that source of confusion. Return the litter-tray where it was purchased, 
or sell it on-line for 2/3 the purchase price as 'lightly used', is my suggestion.

Scroll up the thread & read the exchanges with the other JRT owner - [Novachaya on Sept-26th], 
& do download the FREE books on DogStarDaily website, they are full of useful info.


----------



## Sam12

WOW!! just read ALL 25 pages of this post and there's some great info there. Thanks to all posters.

However, I may now be being a bit daft (or punch drunk after all the reading), but when rewarding wee's, do we reward EVERY wee?

We have a 3 1/2 yr old JRT which we adopted in July. He has separation issues which we are working on. (just introducing him to a crate, so we can begin crate training. Was already to start this but hubby has been on the sick for 4 weeks and therefore in the house all the time. However, this has given Gizmo (our JRT) time to 'like' his crate!)

Within the last couple of weeks, Gizmo has started to wee in the house when we are there. We are going to start the reward thin when out on a walk, but he seems to wee a lot (altho some appear to be 'puffs of steam'!). Do we reward every one?

I know this is a silly question, but I don't want him to get fat with too many 'treats'.

thanks in advance for any advice anyone can give me.

Sam


----------



## leashedForLife

BTW re "25 pages" - set Ur display to 40 posts, & U do a lot less scrolling. 



Sam12 said:


> ...when rewarding wee's, do we reward EVERY wee?


Every one that he produces Outside, & all his potty-trips should be on leash, so he's within 6-ft 
of the grown-up who is accompanying to supervise, treat, & record. A simple log will help - 
a sheet on the frig, listing Who took him out, WHEN, what he produced [liquid or solid], & any details 
[straining, soft stool, etc].



Sam12 said:


> We [adopted] a 3.5-YO JRT... in July. He has separation issues, which we're working on.
> [We're] just introducing him to a crate ... Hubby [was] sick for 4 weeks & [at home] all the time
> ...this [gave] Gizmo ...time to [learn to] 'like' his crate!


Good! :thumbup: Great timing for being ill, even tho it's a pain to be sick.


Sam12 said:


> Within the last couple of weeks, Gizmo has started to wee in the house when we're [home].


When? 
In the morning, at night, after a meal... When?
Is he leg-lifting & just a Tbsp or so [marking], or emptying his bladder?


Sam12 said:


> We are going to start [rewarding him] when out on a walk, but he seems to wee a lot
> (...some appear to be 'puffs of steam'!). Do we reward every one?


i prefer to give a WALK as a reward for pottying at home - pee or poop 1st, _*then*_ we go walkies. 
The food reward comes directly after they produce; the walk begins after the goody is eaten.

I do not reward MARKING - & i tend to hustle dogs along who want to mark; i let them sniff 
to their heart's content, but not mark. IME, it encourages pushy behavior re other males, in many cases.



Sam12 said:


> ...I don't want him to get fat with too many 'treats'.


Measure his breakfast & dinner EVERY time. Don't cheat & eyeball - measure, using a measuring cup.

For low-cal but attractive potty-treats
Take half of one meal [doesn't matter which], 
add 1/4th the volume of that portion in the form of low-carb, low-fat protein:

cubed chicken breast, pouch or canned cold-water fish - tuna, salmon, mackerel, or sardines; 
low-fat cheese such as Mozz; or freeze dried treats - lamb lung, beef liver, whitefish, etc. 
ALL PIECES should be no larger than a garden pea - & half-pea sized is fine, too. 
Get creative with leftover beef - cut off the fat, dice it small, toss some in. 
ANything he's not allergic to is fine! :wink:

Mix the goodies in with the food, in a zip-close plastic bag; put it in the frig overnight. 
Everything will smell LUSCIOUS - even kibble he eats daily will smell like the lovely goodies.
That's his 'treat bag' for potty trips - give them ON THE SPOT, just as soon as he's getting up 
from a squat, or he puts his leg down after a pee.


----------



## missRV

Wondering if anyone has any ideas. 
Our pup is 9 weeks old, and she's doing pretty well, but tonight she has started spotting, she's weeing on the puppy pads which is OK (we prefer outside and take her often) tonight, I took her out for a wee, she wouldn't go and came back inside straight away. 2 minutes later her bottom was down on our very nice rug and she weed, we did not shout and cleaned up immediatly. She then moved into the next room, sat down and weed on the puppy pad, there was only a tiny amount on both the rug and the puppy pad (a circle about the size of a 10p coin on both) is she scenting?


----------



## madcockerspaniel

Hi, I naively bought 2 cocker spaniel puppies (working type) thinking that they would be good company for each other, but did not realise that i was giving myself more than twice the work. They are not sisters btw.
I have found it incredibly hard trying to house train them and have just about cracked it with our golden one of them I think, but the b+w one is just totally oblivious to anything! They are now coming up 20 weeks old, she wees on the floor after going out for a 1 hour walk, she wees on the floor in front of us, she is taken out and then immediately wees or poops on her return. She poops inside all the time, she never stops when we catch her in the act and shout no! When we tell her off, when catching her in the act, she just wags her tail! The golden pup actually starts flapping around and acting a bit weird when she knows the b+w one has weed or pooped, as if she knows that she shouldn't have done it, so since the same training has been used on them both I don't know what I am doing wrong.
The b+w one was trained by our teenagers to sit, lie down, paw, and wont take a treat placed on the floor until we say, (unlike the golden spaniel who can only sit,) the b+w caught on to all these things in literally 5 mins training, but just cannot get house training at all.
Does anyone have any advise or suggestions? We are at our wits end, I feel I spend more time trying to housetrain this dog than I do with my children, it is getting beyond a joke when there is no improvement whatsoever!
Thanks for any input!


----------



## PrinceGeorge

Hi everyone,

I have a specific issue and don't know what to do!

We have a lovely 2.5 year old golden doodle and she is great in every way and we love her dearly... EXCEPT...

-She seems to be a "dirty dog".... She has never minded pooping where she sleeps (we tried the whole crate thing while training... It never worked). 
-She loves eating her poop, and seems to even poop on purpose so that she can eat it!
-Does not appear to have any separation anxiety at all.
-Very stress free home, lots of walks, big backyard to run around in...
-She won't poop when we are home and can go all night without pooping. (So she is technically house trained)

Now, when we leave her in the house, it seems that when she has to go, she just goes. Not only that, but she walks in it, spreads it all over and eats parts of it.

Now we can't trust her in the house alone for more than a few hours. We spend a few hours a week cleaning/disinfecting/ de-odourizing the house every time. Obviously, we can never get a house sitter, so spend tons of money kennelling her when we go away.

We love her so much she is a great companion-- but we are almost starting to feel she belongs on a farm!

Help us fix our dog so that we don't have to give her away!


----------



## tanglewood3

If she is only pooping in the house when you are out and does it soon after you've left, that in itself can be a sign of separation anxiety. The fact that she walks all over it shows that she's probabbly wandering over the place quite stressed. In the short term, make sure you restrict where she can go, to save your house, but you need to get in touch with a trainer/behaviourist to sort the matter.


----------



## tanglewood3

'she never stops when we catch her in the act and shout no!' Get someone in the house to shout no when you are in the middle of going to the toilet and try to stop immediately! lol.
Seriously though, forget that one is easier to train than the other. You have 2 different dogs. Go back to basics. Restrict where she can wander in the house. Keep her in the room with you or pop her in her crate if you can't watch her. Gradually open up the rest of the house as she starts to get better. Put her out when she wakes up, after a meal, after playing, every hour or if she shows signs of wanting to go out. If she doesn't perform after a couple of minutes, bring her back in, but take her out again after 20 minutes. 
From what you say, she is probably in a constant state of excitement with the other pup to play with, so her brain is probably not receptive to listening to what the body is telling it. (I think this is your problem) You need to teach her to settle down and not have constant access to the other pup. Send me a messge, or e mail me. if you need advice on getting them to settle.


----------



## tanglewood3

At 9 weeks, she is still very young. See my previous post on house training. Having said that, I had one puppy for two weeks and knew something was wrong as she started doing tiny spots. I took her to the vets and she had vaginiits. Get your vet to have a look at her when you take her for her next injection.


----------



## DataDave

you may have read my other post.. here is the update.. but a quick summary for those who havent read..

Got a bichon Frise 21 month old from a show breeder who is becoming unwell so is starting to sell her dogs. He has been with all his dog family and friends until we got him. Was on a strict raw food diet with her. Lived in a crate most of the day etc. 

we started him on dried food, didnt go to well..... peeing and pooing in the house...

So now...

we have moved him over to wet tinned food which he likes and eats quite happily. His poos (sorry) seem harder which is better now. But he still poos and wees in the house. I am starting to think it may be because he is very very nervous and is not around his 15 other dogs, the change of house, change of people, change of rooms and the fact he is 21 months old it may take longer.

Does this seem legible? how do we stop it. He doesnt do it on the puppy pads but we can try it again i suppose. 

He also does not want to go out for walks as he seems nervous. When I take him out he is startled by everything and always looks back.

I think he is ok health wise, I just think he is going through a massive culture change and may take a while.

Any thoughts or tips?

But he is very happy sat with us on the sofa cuddling up with us.


----------



## tanglewood3

'I think he is ok health wise, I just think he is going through a massive culture change and may take a while.'
I think you've got it in a nutshell. Imagine being used to a crowd and then suddenly being just one.
See my post a couple of posts down about going back to basics. The nervousness is another issue. sometimes wanting constant cuddles from a re-homed dog can be a sign of stress. You need to find a happy medium between giving him cuddles, but not giving in to constant demand for cuddles. You don't want to get him to the point where he can only cope with life if you are around. Try to get him to lie on a dog bed near you instead of on your lap. Have you tried giving him a couple of soft toys? Try getting him to play fetch. This may take a time if he's not used to this. Stuff a kong for him. Anything really, to get him coping by himself for a short time. Even talking to him in a matter-of-fact voice, not a 'gooey' one can help.
As always, lots of patience. don't expect big changes overnight.


----------



## madcockerspaniel

tanglewood3 said:


> 'she never stops when we catch her in the act and shout no!' Get someone in the house to shout no when you are in the middle of going to the toilet and try to stop immediately! lol.
> Seriously though, forget that one is easier to train than the other. You have 2 different dogs. Go back to basics. Restrict where she can wander in the house.


thanks for the reply, I didnt have a cage but have now invested in one and it seems to be going well. I actually didnt like the idea of one but I have to say that the pups have taken to it straight away and seem to really like having their little den, we have only had one incident with our Black and White bundle of trouble, when she peed in her own cage, but it happened when we took the bedding out to wash and just put an old blanket in temporarily, so perhaps that was the reason, but apart from that we have had no mess in the house at all now for a week! woohoo!!!! How though do you get them from not doing anything in the cage, to not doing anything in the house? We only let them in the rest of the house when they have gone out, immediately from the cage, and they have done their business outside. Then after about an hour we pop them back in the cage for a bit incase they decide they want to do something, plus they usually look like they want a sleep, then same again, outside, then in the rest of the house etc. 
Thanks for any advice again!


----------



## tanglewood3

i'm glad your spanielis getting the hand of it. When she's out of the crate you need to keep an eagle eye on her, so keep her in the same room as you for now, and don't let her wander to other parts of the house until she is more housetrained. As I said before I think part of the problem is she is so excited, so try not to let the two puppies play constantly. Stop them with a titbits getting them both to do some eimple things, sit etc, then pop her in the garden when she has settled.

You need them to grow up as separate identities, not to rely on each other completely as this can cause its own problems. Try and walk them separately at least a couple of times a week. There will be one which is more confident and you can go on a walk and meet a dozen dogs and think they're being well socialised, but the least confident will not have spoken to the dogs until after the other one. You then take her for a walk on her own and she is scared to say hello to dogs, unless she gets used to it now.


----------



## madcockerspaniel

I take it all back, last night after taking them out when they both peed, they came inside and into the rest of the house where they both immediately peed again! One on my brand new sofa and the other on the hall carpet as I was dealing with the first episode! Why would they do that when they've just peed outside?
Also today, they only had a couple of quick walks as I am quite busy today, so when we got back I left them out of their cage and gave them free run of the large kitchen diner area. I went down within 10 mins to make a cup of tea and there was pee on the floor and the black and white one was lying on a cushion that she had peed on in her cage and was soaking wet!:confused
Days like today I despair! My husband wants us to get rid of them, as he feels that they will never be trained, he is sure there is something mentally wrong with our black and white one! haha
Can anybody give me words of encouragement, will this end, is this normal? I must admit I feel defeated today and think my hubby is right.
Sorry for the moan!


----------



## tanglewood3

I once got a collie from a farmer who I reckon would've sold a dog to Cruella de Ville if she had the right money, but even he said he wouldn't let two puppies go together to the same household. It is so difficult trying to train 2 together. Having said that, that's what you've got and we'll try and help you cope.
Who knows why a puppy wees outside and promptly does it again indoors, but that's what they often do.
As I said before, try not to give them the run of any part of the house if you cannot watch them; pop them in their crate. Even while you clean up after one, pop them in their crate. If they then wee in there, at least they're not marking areas in the house where they will go again. The constant supervision won't last long, but is vital at the moment. If they wee on the furniture, don't let them up! They must learn to earn these luxuries.
I would also sometimes have one in and one out of the crate as often as you can to make it easier. 
They should by now be doing lots of little obedience things. If you e mail me from my website, I will send you my puppy booklet.
Tanglewood Dog Training


----------



## madcockerspaniel

tanglewood3 said:


> I once got a collie from a farmer who I reckon would've sold a dog to Cruella de Ville if she had the right money, but even he said he wouldn't let two puppies go together to the same household. It is so difficult trying to train 2 together. Having said that, that's what you've got and we'll try and help you cope.
> Who knows why a puppy wees outside and promptly does it again indoors, but that's what they often do.
> As I said before, try not to give them the run of any part of the house if you cannot watch them; pop them in their crate. Even while you clean up after one, pop them in their crate. If they then wee in there, at least they're not marking areas in the house where they will go again. The constant supervision won't last long, but is vital at the moment. If they wee on the furniture, don't let them up! They must learn to earn these luxuries.
> I would also sometimes have one in and one out of the crate as often as you can to make it easier.
> They should by now be doing lots of little obedience things. If you e mail me from my website, I will send you my puppy booklet.
> Tanglewood Dog Training


Thanks for the words, Im sorry for my pouting, I was just so tired and fed up that day. I had loads to do and sorting the pups mess out was the last thing I needed.
I will email you thanks.


----------



## christianrene

We have two dogs at home, one Labrador and one pomeranian. I have trained both of them not to pee inside the house. I made a special place in our backyard where they can pee and take a poop, and I trained them to go there whenever they have a call of nature.


----------



## doggiedo

Or you can get a good book to read like the one you can see here

Hope it helps all you folks having trouble. It gives you some great insights.Happy Holidays!!!!


----------



## Sammy1help

Help!

My 10 week old puppy doesn't seem to be getting toilet training! Am I expecting to much? She sleeps in kitchen and we have toilet pads down in kitchen, every time we catch her having an accident we pick her up and take her to kitchen but she just doesn't seem to be getting it.

She is a jack Russell cross Yorkshire terror.

Any advice greatly received thank you.


----------



## Kte

Can anyone help?? I have 11 mth old who is still not house trained. He can go all night but then next night does two wees and poo. He is not scenting as he does it any place. He has routines, going out before bed and after dinner. He will go on command, but suspect he doesn't properly empty his bladder, as he is excited to come back in for his treat.have run out of ideas, having never had this much trouble training a dog. Any suggestions??


----------



## leashedForLife

doggiedo said:


> Or you can get a good book to read [http:// www.dogpotty train.com/link share.php&siteID=
> GTSC01eCmPU-Icn C6KMU.Nzd9YhIBro8lg] *like the one you can see here* [/URL]


*SPAM, spam, spam, spam... rrr: :nono: 
Go away, spammer. :sosp: Sell it somewhere else. 

"breed-specific potty training" ?? Jeez, louise - what a ludicrous concept. *


----------



## leashedForLife

Sammy1help said:


> My 10 week old puppy doesn't seem to be getting toilet training! Am I expecting [too] much?


Yes.

She is only 10-WO [70-days out of the womb, for pity's sake!] & she doesn't even have *sphincter muscles* that 
are neurologically connected, yet; she's on automatic, when she's full, she voids; it's that simple.

She must be scheduled, & the rule is listed many times over in this thread - please read the thread, 
don't just skim it, & read the articles that are listed as links, is my advice.


Sammy1help said:


> ...we have [potty]-pads down in the kitchen, *every time we catch her having an accident, we pick her up
> and take her to the kitchen,* but she just doesn't seem to be getting it.


Why is she allowed out of the kitchen, or why isn't she safely confined to an easy-clean, puppy-proofed area?

She shouldn't be wandering all over the first / ground floor; she must EARN her house privileges,
but at the same time, she must be set-up to succeed - not to make mistakes, which are *all*
ultimately the fault of the human on duty at the moment - not the pup's fault.

IOW - they aren't "her" mistakes, they are Urs - or Ur spouse / GF / BF / responsible older-child, etc.
Whichever human is supervising at the moment is the responsible party - the pup is only an infant, & cannot 
be held responsible for things that s/he cannot help. Pups can't open the back-door, are often too shy 
to go out a dog-flap alone, MUST go out on-leash to potty in order to learn to do so in close proximity - 
which will be incredibly helpful if U need a urine-specimen in the next decade or so!... - it's all OUR task.

The puppy's tasks are to explore, grow physically & mentally, learn, eat, & sleep. That's It - all else is ours to do.


----------



## leashedForLife

Kte said:


> ...he is excited to *come back in for his treat.*
> ...never had this much trouble training a dog.


Y are U waiting till he COMES INSIDE to reward a behavior performed ==> OUTside? 

U aren't rewarding him for coming indoors; U are rewarding VOIDing outdoors, which should be given 
as a reward instantly, as soon as the behavior is performed - in fact, as soon as he 'commits' to the action, 
& it should be rewarded on the very spot where he is, at that moment - not delayed til U enter the house.

If he's not confused, i am. :lol:


----------



## RachelLW

Hi, 

We picked up Holly, our Cocker/King Charles cross on Friday (14 weeks). She seemed to be doing OK with her house training and although she urinated a few times in the house on Fri and Sat, she only emptied her bowels in the garden. On Sunday night I accidently closed the curtains around the door (out of habit), which meant she couldn't see the mat where she usually sits if she wants to go outside. She therefore defecated in the corner of the room (my partner caught her at it and she ran to another corner to finish off and he couldn't catch her). My partner got angry and shouted at her, even though I told him not to as it wasn't her fault and to ignore the situation; he took her outside and closed the door. I cleaned up and she was getting distressed that he wouldn't let her back in (he was with her so she wasn't alone). Since then she doesn't want to go out into the garden - I assume that she now associates this with being told off and we appear to be back to square one and she has taken to sneaking off and defecating in the living room (she is confined to the living room and kitchen only). I know it is very early days, but I don't want her to develop bad habits and be afraid of her own garden. Does anyone have any advice?

Thanks


----------



## Sled dog hotel

RachelLW said:


> Hi,
> 
> We picked up Holly, our Cocker/King Charles cross on Friday (14 weeks). She seemed to be doing OK with her house training and although she urinated a few times in the house on Fri and Sat, she only emptied her bowels in the garden. On Sunday night I accidently closed the curtains around the door (out of habit), which meant she couldn't see the mat where she usually sits if she wants to go outside. She therefore defecated in the corner of the room (my partner caught her at it and she ran to another corner to finish off and he couldn't catch her). My partner got angry and shouted at her, even though I told him not to as it wasn't her fault and to ignore the situation; he took her outside and closed the door. I cleaned up and she was getting distressed that he wouldn't let her back in (he was with her so she wasn't alone). Since then she doesn't want to go out into the garden - I assume that she now associates this with being told off and we appear to be back to square one and she has taken to sneaking off and defecating in the living room (she is confined to the living room and kitchen only). I know it is very early days, but I don't want her to develop bad habits and be afraid of her own garden. Does anyone have any advice?
> 
> Thanks


Unfortunately your OH has comitted the cardinal sin shouting at them for mistakes, it can make them nervous about going in front of you and more likely to sneak off and do it, which in her case has happened. As it may be being toileted by him that makes the association even worse as he is the one that did it. Personally I would make sure you take over the training for awhile now.

Go back to basics, taking her out every 30/45 minutes, using a cue word in a happy voice if/when she does start (later she will associate this word with toileting if used all the time and you can later use it as a toilet command) then when she has completely finished lots of praise and treats. Also take her out after drinking, eating, play and sleeping they usually need to go then.

Also to build her confidence and make a good association with the garden again, take her out for a few training and play sessions, using treats and rewards too.
Make it purely fun times to build her confidence, you may even find that she will just squat too to toilet during the play and once she gets into enjoying herself all the pressure of just going out to stand about and get her to toilet will be taken off her.


----------



## Symone

I have a question - My puppy is now allowed on walks so I have begun to try to potty train her outside.
She holds it until she is inside and then pees on the floor. 
Earlier it was even worse. She jumped onto the bed and weed there. (was tempted to praise her for doing it on the OH's side! But I didn't.)
Is there any way I can tempt her to go outside? 
She has wee'd outside before, and I made a huge fuss with praising her. But it has only happened the once. 

So.. any tips?


----------



## mel0801

Hi, Im new here because Im looking for some help with my japanese akita inu. Shes 5 months old and ive only had her for 1 week, the breeders told me shes house trained and the first few days i had her she took herself to the front door when she needed to wee but within the last 2 days when ive sat down to eat she comes over to try take my food and when ive told her no she walks away and wees on the carpet. also when ive come home from being out she had been doing excited wees so now when i come home ive tried not to make such a fuss and get her all excited which seems to work for a minuet but will then squat and wee. i wonder if its attention seeking cos shes squating to wee instead of standing while weeing or if shes still just excited.
can anyone help please?
mel


----------



## Fugly72

Thank u I found that post really helpful. My little chow cross just poos and wees I front of me with a 'what's the problem' expression even if he has just been out!! I am trying v hard not to tell him off (although peeing on my duvet and subsequent mattress) was a little much to bear - I will take all advise on board and see how we go. Donna


----------



## fluke13

Quick question. It's early days as we have only had our 8 week old pup 4 days, at night she will go in her bed fine but it seems when she wakes in the night for a wee(usually every hour or so) she crys until i go to her put her back in her bed and is then ok until she wakes again. I can't ignore her crying as i have a 10 yr old daughter and this would disturb her sleep.Forgot to say she is in the kitchen in a soft sided traveller with a baby gate preventing her from getting out. I dont have room in the house for a crate.
Any help would be great


----------



## Swais001

Hi could you help me i moved into my house 8 months ago and through next door was told the previous owners had dogs, I'm now worried as I'm due to pick up my pup tomoz and was told not to let him In the garden now for toilet training because he's not 12 weeks yet is this true? Please help!!


----------



## leashedForLife

Swais001 said:


> ...i moved into my house 8-mos ago & [my new-neighbor said] the previous owners had dogs,
> I'm now worried -
> 
> I'm due to pick up my pup tomoz & was told not to [use] the garden for toilet training
> because he's not 12-WO yet -
> is this true?


I wouldn't worry; young pups have passive-immunity via mum's milk, i would just check to be sure 
the breeder has given at least one booster, assuming the pup is 9-WO or so?

if the pup is only 8-WO, giving a booster is pointless; the passive-immunity renders it useless.

talk to Ur vet about getting KILLED virus boosters, 1 per visit, at least 2-weeks & preferably 3-wks apart; 
i'd start with Parvo, then distemper. Kennel-cough really isn't necessary - it's a self-limiting "cold" with more than 
100 strains in circulation.

Don't let the pup eat garden-dirt, tho - nor cat-feces, nor duck-droppings. 
Bunny, deer, sheep, & horse droppings are safe, so long as they haven't been WORMED - 
any droppings with bright-colored bits in should be strictly avoided, our horse-wormer was laced 
with bright-blue snippets that looked like cupcake sprinkles, so we could tell which manure had wormer in it, 
remove it & dispose of it AWAY from the dog's access.

Congrats on the puppy. :thumbup1:


----------



## hahgiwoofa

HELP ME!! PLEASE!!

Pepper is 7 yrs old, perfectly housetrained.
Paddy (Collie) is just turned 12 months, we got him aged 7 months from a shelter where he had lived since being a couple of weeks old, obviously voiding anywhere and everywhere whenever needed.

When we first got him he continued this, and we worked on praising him outside an de-odourising inside. Now the 'bulk' of his functions are outside and when we are at home he will 'myther' if it's around going out time, and void when he gets out. 

HOWEVER.... 
Paddy is still weeing (and to a lesser extent pooing) in the house overnight, and when we're out (never when we're at home) 

The wees seem to be quite small so I'm guessing marking, but the constant wee/cleaning cycle has started to damage our laminate floor and it's now beginning to disintegrate :bored: (obvs we'll replace as soon as we can afford)

His schedule is 
6.30am/7 - 10 mins walk for toilet 
7/7.30 - breakfast
9.30 - 1-1.5 hr walk (on and off lead)
11 - 5 mins walk for toilet if 9.30 walk shorter
11-15.30 - dogs home alone (4 days a week)
15.30/16.00 - 10 mins walk for toilet
18.00 - teatime
20.00/21.00 - 0.5-1hr walk on and off lead.
23.00/00.00 - 10 mins walk for toilet.
Bed

At every walk he wees multiple times, poos outside at various times but seems to have no regular poo pattern (Pepper is regular as clockwork same times each day) 

I'm really struggling to keep up with it and don't know what to do next. Crating is not an option as they distress Pepper too much.

Vet says he's no signs of any UTI problems, and he was neutered when we got him.

please help!! :mad2:


----------



## leashedForLife

hahgiwoofa said:


> Paddy (Collie) is just turned 12-MO, we got him aged 7-mos from a shelter where he'd lived since [puphood],
> obviously voiding anywhere & everywhere...
> 
> When we first got him he continued this, & we worked on praising him outside & de-odourising inside.
> Now the 'bulk' of his functions are outside & when we're... home, he'll 'myther' if it's around going out time,
> & void when he gets out.
> 
> HOWEVER... [he] still wees (and to a lesser extent poos) in the house overnight, & when we're out
> (never when we're at home)
> 
> The wees seem to be quite small so I'm guessing marking, but the constant wee/cleaning cycle has started
> to damage our laminate floor & it's [begun] to disintegrate :bored: (obvs we'll replace as soon as we can afford)
> 
> His schedule is
> 6.30am/7 - 10 mins walk for toilet
> 7/7.30 - breakfast
> 9.30 - 1-1.5 hr walk (on and off lead)
> 11 - 5 mins walk for toilet if 9.30 walk shorter
> 11-15.30 - dogs home alone (4 days a week)
> 15.30/16.00 - 10 mins walk for toilet
> 18.00 - teatime
> 20.00/21.00 - 0.5-1hr walk on and off lead.
> 23.00/00.00 - 10 mins walk for toilet.
> Bed
> 
> At every walk he wees multiple times, poos outside at various times but seems to have no regular poo pattern
> (Pepper is regular as clockwork same times each day)
> 
> I'm really struggling to keep up with it and don't know what to do next. Crating is not an option as they distress Pepper too much.
> 
> Vet says he's no signs of any UTI problems, & he was neutered when we got him.


 - Belly-band for the indoor pee; remove it ONLY after he exits, & replace it before he re-enters.
Change the self-stick pad liners whenever they're damp, or at minimum 1x / 24-hours even if dry, 
to minimize bacteria-growth.

- try setting a 2 x 3-foot shipping crate [buy used] out, where he can go in by choice.
toss chew-objects like a raw carrot, well-scrubbed broccoli stems, or a stuffed & frozen Kong into it;
baby-gate the area so that only Paddy has access to the crate, he can see his housemate but they aren't 
in the same space when U aren't home.

- a pair of pants will often help with indoor poop; cut a tail-hole in water-resistant swim pants, 
if he poops put him in the garden 1st, take the pants off after he's outdoors, & evert the poopy pants 
over the toilet to dump the feces; flush, GLOVE, & rinse the poopy pants in the toilet, then wash as usual.

U'll need a spare belly-band & spare swim-pants to make it easier; when one is soiled, the other's in use. 
kiddy re-sale shops with outgrown items are super-cheap, i've bought swim-pants for $2 in excellent condition.

- An easy-to-clean area to confine him when solo / U're not home, or overnight while U sleep, 
is also helpful - don't give him absorbent bedding, leave a plastic bed that gets him off the floor, 
or an open shipping-crate with a SOLID bottom half to prevent drafts chilling him.

the sort of plastic beds or mesh hose-able beds used in shelters are good; easy to clean, sturdy, 
& not so hard on joints. A 'wading-pool' type bed also protects from drafts with its raised walls.

CALMATIVES can be very helpful - they're OTC, no scrip needed, & very safe.
Given as needed, no overdose worries, no interactions.
See this single post with What, When, How, etc - #22 in the sticky:
Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much...


----------



## Dallyowner

Hi all, 

Am new here to this forum , to cure a problem with toilet training my 4 month old Dalmatian dog who's name is "Perry" who is very resourceful when taking a whiz on and in everything!.

I have read the tut by CarolineH and all the other tips in this forum on the subject, but I still can't seem to get it through to perry he needs to go outside.

As it is now I give him a small bowl of water in the morning at 8am when he wakes then I get ready to walk him around 9am we come back after an hour of off the lead walking and running then we get back home then he has breakfast and then pees either on the carpets or crate which I wipe up without fuss, he has another small bowl of water at lunch time then 30mins later he pees on what ever he wants. Now am letting him out every hour in the backyard for 30 mins at a time but he holds his wee and waits to do it in the house:mad2: I crate him with his bed and toys during the night at 10.30pm when I go to bed and give him a small bowl of water then which is wet then the cycle starts again:scared:.

My latest idea was today when he woke I gave him a big bowl of water which he drank the lot, then I waited 1 hour keeping an eye on him so not to pee in the house but does not stop him though 

We then went for the longest walk 1 1/2 hour after I noticed he started to whinge to go home so I tried to encourage him to go wee wee and all the other trigger words I could think of but to no avail  then what do you know we got home then he pees everywhere.

I'm at my wits end on how long this will take, what am I doing wrong :mad2:

Hope some one has a idea I have not yet tried.


Thanks in advance 

Lee


----------



## leashedForLife

Dallyowner said:


> ...now, I give him *a small bowl of water in the morning at 8-am* when he wakes
> then... walk him around 9-am, we come back after an hour of off-lead walking & running;
> [*when*] *we get... home... he has breakfast* & then pees, either *on the carpets *
> or [in the] crate, which I wipe up without fuss...
> 
> he has another *small bowl of water* at lunch-time... 30-mins later, he pees [wherever].


Suggs:

- He goes out to pee 1st thing in the AM, *on leash with U* -
Carry high-quality, pea-sized [pre-portioned] treats outside WITH U, 
praise him as he squats, then reward him as he rises from his squat.

- Then take him indoors, leave him in a puppy-proof area [kitchen, mud-room, _____ ] with his open crate,
get Ur shower, etc; FEED him after U're bathed & dressed, wait 20-mins, take him back out on leash
to toilet; the full stomach encourages a BM & also urination. Carry those *pea-sized treats* with U, 
praise as he performs, give the treat as he stands up before he takes 1 step.

- Move his crate at nite to the bedroom, within arm's-reach of the bed.
Set the alarm for 3-AM & have a coat & shoes ready; put the pup's leash on the roof of his shipping-crate.
When the alarm goes off, get up & put on coat / shoes over PJs; get the pup out last, & *carry him* out;
grab the goodies from the frig on the way, or have really-good freeze-dried meat in the coat pocket.
Leash him before U set him down, & WAIT; when he squats, *praise*; when he rises, *treats!* :thumbup:

- Whenever he's in the house, he's either a) crated or b) within 4-ft of U on a leash - 
no other options, period. He is either in his crate with no bedding, or he's attached & under Ur eye.

Last & most-important: 
_I would not limit the pup's water-intake.
Dogs use water as we do, to maintain electrolyte balance, 
excrete wastes, & hydrate the body; however, they also 
use water to thermo-regulate. 
Water is critical; the pup knows what he needs, & when; 
U don't.

I'd stick to getting him outside regularly, ON leash;
confining him or umbilical-training while indoors;
& being sure he's warmly praised *& rewarded
every time he voids outdoors.*_ :thumbsup:


----------



## DebsG

Hi 

I have read this thread with interest. Harry is now 12 weeks and doing great. The crate training/ outside as soon as door open worked great. He is still a baby and if playing usually runs to the back door and makes a squeaky / whine noise to go out. 

So this week (after vaccinations and an extra week) we started going for short walks. He hated the lead at first but with lots of praise for walking a few steps we are up and running so to speak.

However, he won't pee on the lead, if he needs to go he gets upset and distressed. I use the same word as at home in the garden, 'outside' but he looks at me totally confused. I had lovely treat teady to praise even if he did a dribble but nothing  We walk back to the house, go into the garden and he pee's with a very relieved look! 

This sounds ok, only pee in own garden but I take Harry to work 1 day a week and for him to last all day will be torture (I tried it on Wed and the only pee he did was in the office after the walk but he was upset at this too, no shouting or ticking off as I didn't see him do it, just saw it after). 

So, how can I get Harry to pee on the lead and out on walks??
Debs 

Ps dry all night in the crate 11pm -7am which is great but to enjoy trips away from the house we need to master the pee away from home!

Debs x


----------



## Dallyowner

Just a update really, as people have already read my post on trouble on house training my 4 month dally.

Now it's not a way I would have foreseen, well it all started when perry my dally was crated for the night as normal with no problems, then I wake at the normal time of 6.30am make my way down stairs and open the crate where perry is laying down and wagging his tail, but I noticed that he did not move when I opened the crate door to let him out.
Normally he would shoot out but no, so I carried on with some chores but 5 mins later when I checked on him he still was in the crate then I was very concerned and tried to lift him out but then he started yelping very loud.
It turns out he hurt hi back leg some how? during the night in his crate:confused1: so straight to the vet and it turned out that perry had very badly bruised his outer ligaments and now heavily bandaged up and on strong pain killers.

Now I will not be crating him ever again and I then got rid of the crate which was 48" 30" 32" very large for a 4 month pup.

This in strange way has helped with house training  because now he has nowhere to go toilet other the back yard, I now say WeeWee's or he whines at the door to let him out and pee's on command with a treat that follows .

How he hurt himself in the crate is a mystery to me?. 


Lee


----------



## ShannonF

Hi, I have an 11 week old dogue de bordeaux and am really struggling house training her! she was doing well up until around a week ago, only had the odd mistake every now and again but now she holds it in until she is inside! When ever I see her sniffing around or about to squat I pick her up or run to the back door with her but when we are outside she wont go, I stand there for 15-20 minutes.... no playing just standing but she just comes and sits infront or at the side of me and as soon as we go back inside she does her business! we haven't paper trained her but she goes on anything that is on the floor ie leaflets or letters that come through the letter box! Because of this I have started putting newspaper down in one place so as soon as she starts sniffing there I know she wants to go and can take her out but like I said she just holds it, I have also tried putting puppy pads/ newspaper on the floor outside with no success. she soils her crate every night and any time she is put in it while I am out, I thought they were supposed like keeping their crate clean??? Anyone got any ideas to help me!?


----------



## kettlemelee

Help! ! I have an 11 week old staffordshire bull terrier. She is not my first staff or dog breed but im struggling with toilet training. If I put her outside to the toilet she howls and cries which results in soiled beds. Im at a loss... iv ignored...she still wont go outside without a chaperone.


----------



## Babbo

My last puppy was brill for the first week of housetraining them decided she would use the house as the weather got colder and wetter lol....thankfully now with lots of patience and rewards she barks at the door to go out ;-)


----------



## mariebx19

I got my dog roxy when she was 6 weeks old and she only done the toilet in the house within the first day (maybe 2) she was trained in a nice way but she is soo quick to learn things-i have taught he alot of tricks like-shut the door,take a bow,speak etc and most she learned after 2-5 times being told


----------



## TarresaW

Hello guys, first of all I want to thank everyone who posted in the discussion as it was interesting and useful to read the posts.

I am new here, as well as it is also new for me to have a dog. It is my first one. He is 4 months old Anatolian Shepherd Dog, very active and crazy one. I guess it is kind of normal for a puppy of his age. But I really can't to train it anyhow, probably it my fault as I have no any experience. Even though there are a lof of negative reviews of training services Pissed Consumer, I would like to try one out. Or is just too early?


----------



## leashedForLife

TarresaW said:


> [This is] my first [dog, a] 4-MO Anatolian Shepherd, very active & crazy... I guess it is kind of normal
> for a puppy of his age. But I really can't... train [him], probably... my fault as I have no... experience.
> 
> ...I would like to try [a training service]. Or is just too early?


He's 4-MO, the rough equivalent of an 11-YO boy; & he's had no schooling. 
He's active, crazy when excited, has no manners, & is ignorant as a rock - but he's not "bad", 
he just doesn't know any better.

I can heartily recommend the members of the APDT-uk, if U are in the UK?... 
they don't allow aversive tools nor confrontational or intimidating methods.

what is Ur general area? We can make better, more-specific suggestions with that info.


----------



## tarek zidan

the house training playing an important role at animal behavior,Every animal owner should care about that:
for more information :
HOME specially designed for the well-being of cats


----------



## Fruities

This is something really hard to do with my busy work schedule. I like the above comment that talk about putting pampers! Seriously, sometimes I wish I could do that !


----------



## FEJA JUODAS

Dougal said:


> Dougal is 5 months old next week and accidents are very rare now (touch wood!). He wasn't crate trained and living in a flat made things a bit tricky, but I just took him out as much as possible and - if I caught him in the act - I did tell him off.
> 
> He used to sleep in the kitchen, and would pee overnight on a puppy pad - now he sleeps in my bedroom he goes through the night - or makes it clear he needs to go out.
> 
> It's not just he knows he's supposed to go outside (I think!) - he's grown a lot in the last month and seems to have much better control now. Peeing on the carpet the moment he stops playing hasn't happened for a while


yes yes ! i read the puppy pad bit and think that was my mistake ! ...my dog assoicated a floor covering with a place to pee and yes my cat used the bath occasionally ! going OUT is what my dogs seem to naturally want to do however to my amazement ! i used the word for PEE when they were doing it also !

the WAY my younger dog ASKS is just lovely...he does not go to the door and scratch or bark no...first he comes to me and slobber chops me...pawing me...and especially if i am ASLEEP ! it wakes me up and it tests my patience sometimes but i have learnt to recognise that the NEXT thing he does once he is assured i am awake is GO TO THE OUTSIDE DOOR !

that is so cute...to me...and useful ! and i never taught him, i am no use at teaching dogs things like even toilet training ! i stupidly put newspapers down for my older dog to try and teach her to do it there...that was a mistake....she didnt WANT to pee inside ! was upset even...and so i stopped doing that because she then associated any covering inside a building with PEE ON place !!! when she peed on the ENTRANCE MAT of a petshop that did it ! i stopped putting things down for her ! lol !!! i add there were no carpets inside in her puppy days. now she waits of course for when the other dog asks to go out.

i do have to get up in the night to let my dogs out yes....but as stated the dog wakes me up by pawing me to ask ! amazes me. he did that from a puppy. and here i am thinking no one taught him that. i do admire him dogs often for things like that.

what amazes and impresses me even MOre than asking to go out for a pee, is that he NEVER asks to go out JUST FOR FUN ! he is not DEVIOUS in that sense even though he knows if he asks and stands by the door it means I WANT TO GO OUT...he has not got what i would call HUMAN DEVIOUSNESS ULTERIOR MOTIVES for doing so like ? just wanting to go out for a walk ! if he or ther other dog want that, they PICK UP MY SHOES AND BRING THEM TO ME ! to put them on !!! lol !! how i love my dogs.


----------



## Lisabee83

Hi all, this is my first time posting. I really need some advice. I have a 13 week old jack Russell x staff pup. All was going well with house training, until the last week. We live in a flat and he was going to the toilet on paper really well, we praised him lots. Then 2 weeks ago we introduced him to the balcony area where he could pee etc. He started really well, and always does his poo outside, but now keeps peeing in the middle of the kitchen or living room. He will not pee outside anymore. My partner is losing his patience. I dont know what ti do. My partner is the one home with him all day and we have a young daughter, so this needs to be sorted otherwise we will have to get him adopted. Please help


----------



## PrissyBelle

just wonder how long until the puppy 'get it'? she still pees on my carpet at least once a day - we are already taking her outside every 20 minutes


----------



## leashedForLife

PrissyBelle said:


> just wonder how long until the puppy 'get it'?


how OLD is Ur pup?

if U *read the thread*, U'll see that pups don't have working sphinter-muscles till they're 12-WO;
that's 3-mos. THEN they have to learn to hold it, build muscle-tone, etc.

it's not just age; it's a learning process. Please read the thread - & download the FREE books listed,
which contain loads of info. 



PrissyBelle said:


> she still pees on my carpet at least once a day ...


why is she on the carpet?

don't U have a lino or tile area that's easy to clean up?

how often does she pee - & do U STAY OUTSIDE to watch, & be sure she voids?
U can't just "let her out" - that won't work. She's an infant; U have to GO WITH HER.


----------



## FEJA JUODAS

B4 i dash off...if not already said house training tips..SAY WEE WEE when the dog is weeing ! makes it easier with time to TELL it to wee later faster while you wait for it !

a local farmer told me she taught her dogs to wee by WEEING IN FRONT OF THEM HERSELF ! ja ! imagine that ? ooh ok on a farm it is ok ! doubt ok in suburbia hey !!! 

if you put newspaper out inside for it to wee on it may start as my pup did weeing on shop mats ! 

outside is best ! one day the dog may even ASK you to go out ! my one dog did that ! goes to door scratches it after waking me up first !

oh rubbing nose in it if it does it inside ? forget that if a young pup it just couldnt wait ! i once did that to my CAT !  in a temper and shock that cats being more clean reputed than dogs weed i did that to it and shoved it in the shower ! to clean it off of course !  nearly got my eyes out for that !  once was enough ! the cat didnt LEARN anything i add in case you think ONCE WAS ENOUGH related to teaching the CAT ! it related to TEACHING ME NOT TO TAKE ON A CAT !!


----------



## PrissyBelle

leashedForLife said:


> how OLD is Ur pup?
> 
> if U *read the thread*, U'll see that pups don't have working sphinter-muscles till they're 12-WO;
> that's 3-mos. THEN they have to learn to hold it, build muscle-tone, etc.
> 
> it's not just age; it's a learning process. Please read the thread - & download the FREE books listed,
> which contain loads of info.
> 
> why is she on the carpet?
> 
> don't U have a lino or tile area that's easy to clean up?
> 
> how often does she pee - & do U STAY OUTSIDE to watch, & be sure she voids?
> U can't just "let her out" - that won't work. She's an infant; U have to GO WITH HER.


Ahhh, thanks for your reply  I did skim-read the thread so I didnt know the 12 weeks thing.

Yes we do stay outside and wait until she pees. And then we take her back in after she finishes. Her room and the kitchen is tiled but she loves the living room so sometimes we would let her into living room. THen she will pee on the carpet in our living room! like 10 mins after she peed outside.

Hopefully she will get better soon...


----------



## leashedForLife

PrissyBelle said:


> Yes, we do stay outside & wait until she pees... we take her back [indoors] after she finishes.


Excellent! :thumbup: there's no substitute for being there, as U need to see What she produces, How much
she produces, & anything unusual - straining, pink urine, soft poo, bits in the poo like plastic, etc.

PLUS - U need to be there to praise & reward her, for voiding in the rt-place at the rt-time. 
don't forget to carry treats: pea or half-pea sized, high-quality, mostly protein, low-fat, low-salt.
Chicken-breast diced small, tuna-tidbits, freeze-dried whitefish, lamb-lung or liver... anything, but not
kibble; don't be cheap. 


PrissyBelle said:


> Her room & the kitchen are tiled, but she loves the living-room... sometimes we'd let her into living room.
> Then she'll pee on the carpet in our living room!... like 10-mins after she peed outside.


hmm.  What's going on when she pees? Is someone looming over her to pet her, 
is she over-excited, does she seem anxious or worried?...

How often does she pee, each day? Do U note when she goes, & about how much?
Maybe she has a mild UTI?... Does she void often, but not much?

For now, i'd avoid the living-rm unless she's on Ur lap, literally, or directly beside U on the sofa, 
lying down - if she gets up, put her in her crate, assuming she has one. Don't say anything, 
just get up, take her out, park her, & leave - be sure she's got a chewy to occupy her, it's a time-out, 
not any sort of punishment. 30 to 45-secs later, U can bring her back, have her lie down - hold a chewy 
if she's fussy; lying down beside U keeps her off the carpet.

20-mins after she arrives in the living-rm for her visit, she leaves - just in case. Another potty-trip 
on leash, bring her in, settle her in the tiled puppy-space [which should be no more than 6 x 6, not a 
whole room; smaller is better, 4 x 4 is terrific], & leave her to chew.


----------



## MrsLee2011

I have joined the site as I need help training my 14 week old Cavalier King Charles Spaniel. 
When we first brought him home we used puppy pads and a crate, he is now holding overnight and never has any accidents in his crate. He will use puppy pads but then also has accidents all over our living room / kitchen which are open plan. We have his puppy pads by our patio doors so that he associates the door area with going the toilet. 
When walking or just playing outside he will go but has been known to be out in garden for an hour and half then come in and wee. 
I have bought cleaning sprays that are meant to discourage accidents but these do not seem to have any affect any tips would be appreciated. 
Thanks x


----------



## mylocalpets

When we brought our rescue home from the shelter, we were fortunate enough that she didn't already have any real bad habits - not trained to sit, stay, etc. 

This made it easy to get her to listen to the first set of commands.

Essentially, whenever I thought it was time for her to do her business, I brought her to the same spot in the yard until she "went"... following that up with a treat.

Once she mastered that, I moved on to commands for sit, stay, etc.

Any other recommendations 


Thanks.


----------



## Thenuggetuk

I have and 18month old greyhound x collie. He has never been good at holding in when he's left on his own. If I'm home he can go for hours and over night, telling me if he needs to go out. I live in a shared house and you can imagine what happens if I don't get home before my housemates. They don't mind clearing it up but I get so embarrassed when they mention it and they help let him out when I'm at work. 
I even take him for at least 30mins good run with a ball down the park where he would poop at least 2 times and wee maybe 2 times. I go to work and he can wee after maybe 2 hours maybe less sometimes, rarely more! 
I just don't know what to do as he's perfect with it when people are in! 
Any Suggestions welcome. Just need him to hold it until he's let out like any normal dog. 
He's done and very healthy, he's just never held it 
Cheers

Ps I posted this on yahoo but everyone suggested crates in not too nice a terms so just would like more then 'crate him like any rational person' the thing is, he hates crates and barks his head off(neighbour complains!) chews wire and completely stresses himself. I've tried behaviourist for crate training but they all suggest leaving him out so after a year or trying the crate had to go.


----------



## BeckyC

My new little one is refusing to go outside! I have had him since last night and he obviously wants to go because he keeps whinning but he wont do anything when he is out! What is going wrong here? He had a tiny pee on the carpet first thing this morning but I stopped him in the act but won't continue outside despite going out several times 

Edit: After I wrote this I took him out and after a few minutes had a wee, I couldn't of praised him more! Just persistence, hard though when your OH is getting really grumpy at you.


----------



## Colb

Thankfully Max was great and picked it up quick, we got him at 4 and half mths, anytime he needed the toilet he went straight into the backroom and did his business on the puppy pads/newspapers, once he started to cock his leg in the house we knew then to train him to go outside, he is 8 mths now and for the last lot of weeks has been going outside, he scratches the door to let us know when he wants out to do his business, I normally send him out every hour just incase, had a couple of number 1 accidents but they are easily cleaned up but only because he gets excited when he knows he is going for a walk  also he sleeps a good 8/9hrs through the night with no toilet issues


----------



## leashedForLife

Colb said:


> Thankfully Max... picked it up quick, we got him at [18-WO], anytime he needed to [void] he went
> straight into the back room & [used] the puppy pads/ newspapers...


Just my opinion, but i wouldn't have bothered with teaching a pup nearly *5-MO* to pee indoors 
or stool indoors, at all - heck, i have any pup who's old-enuf to leave dam & siblings [8-WO] 
go outside on-leash for every potty trip!  Even in winter or rain, etc - they will need to do that 
later, anyway, best start off as U mean to go on.

i prefer error-free housetraining, which means scheduling until the pup is 12-WO & has sphincters, 
then gradually increasing the length of time between potty-trips as the pup develops muscle - 
& i set my alarm for 3-AM each night til the pup is 15-WO or so, for a leashed potty-trip then.


Colb said:


> ...once he started to *cock his leg in the house*, we knew then to train him to go outside...


again, this is something i'd have avoided entirely.

I don't want a pubertal pup to learn marking in the house - even ONCE is too many times, 
it's a pain in the butt to "un-learn" & best prevented, IME.


----------



## Colb

The person we got him from had not bothered to house train him and he just crapped and pee'd wherever and whenever inside their home, so when we took him he did the same, he would'nt go outside at all which is why were obliged to house train him first, everyone's ways are different, at the end of the day he is fine now, had the previous owner do what they were supposed to do we would not have needed to do the whole puppy pads thing.


----------



## melissat

Hi Guys, just wondering if anyone can help me with my lil pup, I have a video that I found that is similar to what my naughty lil puppy did, so any suggestions?

Here's the video : "Bosco - Bad Dog!" - YouTube


----------



## leashedForLife

melissat said:


> ...just wondering if anyone can help me with my lil pup...
> 
> Here's the video :
> "Bosco - Bad Dog!"


Did U read the thread - including use the links to articles, FREE books, etc?
if not, i'd start with that. :yesnod: Re-writing wastes a lot of time.

"Bosco" is not crated, merely confined, & bored. THE HUMAN is the one at fault.
The video isn't a *housetraining* issue, it's a dog chewing & pulling paper from the bin, etc.

IOW, it's off topic. Next...


----------



## Missbea

Hi I'm looking for some advice on why and how to change out three year old staff peering in the house. It seems to me that when my boy'f and I tell him to get off the bed (when were trying to sleep) he will go downstairs (not immediately but once we are asleep) and pee in the kitchen. At all other times he will go outside. I'm guessing this is some kind of dominance issue but am not sure how to resolve it. We have a dog flap in the kitchen (for our cat too) I don't want to shut the kitchen door preventing him from going into the kitchen as neither of them will have access to the garden then. Plus we have carpets everywhere else which would be more difficult to clean. 

Recently he's been marking his territory indoors more often and have started keeping him in the kitchen rather than having the run whilst we're out. He seems to go through phases of being ok but then slips back to bad habits. My boy'f is beginning to lose his patience and I'd like to find a solution to get our pooch back on track. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated  xx


----------



## leashedForLife

Missbea said:


> [our] 3-YO AmStaff [pees] in the house.
> 
> ...when my BF & I tell him to get off the bed... he'll go downstairs... & pee in the kitchen.
> At all other times he will go outside. I'm guessing this is some kind of *dominance* issue...


Please toss "dumbinance" in the trash-bin. 
Dogs don't have linear hierarchies, & even if they did, U wouldn't be ranked - as U're not a dog, 
the dogs know that, & it's only a label that causes trouble; it paints the dog as bossy or rebellious.

Suggestion:
- Crate him at night in a shipping-crate [not a wire cage] in the kitchen.

Take him out as late as possible, GO WITH the dog on leash so U can see that he urinates, 
bring him in, crate him overnight, get up within 7 to 8-hours, take him immediately outside, 
on leash, wait for him to void, PRAISE warmly whilst he's voiding, give a TREAT before he stands 
from his squat or as he's lowering his leg [IOW, on the spot, immediately], go back indoors, feed 
the dog brekkie, do Ur own stuff; 30 to 45-mins later, take him out on leash, wait for him to void, 
*warm praise* as he voids, *treat* on the spot as soon as he's done, go for a walk.


Missbea said:


> We have a ...flap in the kitchen [door]... I don't want to shut the kitchen door preventing him from
> going into the kitchen, as neither [dog nor cat] will have access to the garden then. Plus we have
> carpets everywhere else, which would be more difficult to clean.
> 
> ...he's been *marking... indoors* more often, & we've started keeping him in the kitchen
> rather than having the run [of the house] whilst we're out. He seems ... OK but then slips back
> to *bad habits*. My BF is beginning to lose patience...


pet-flaps aren't all they're cracked up to be - 
they may be convenient for the owner, but they require the PET to use them, the owner cannot KNOW when 
or if the pet has voided, how much, whether the urine or stool was normal [bleeding? straining? diarrhea?
non-food in the feces? scant & painful? copious unconcentrated urine? off-color? Any other symptoms?],
& so forth.

Cats are especially-prone to avoid the outdoors if another animal has been nearby - intimidation is 
a common cause for cats who refuse to go outdoors to void, don't have an indoor litterbox, & thus 
void on the carpet, floors, behind a sofa, etc, or spray near the window, door, etc, that's closest 
to their POV when they see / saw the intruder.

per Ur dog, i'd say confining him when U can't supervise is good - whether U're at home or away, 
asleep or busy with some task, if he's confined to the kitchen with a stuffed Kong or in his crate with 
a bully-stick, he's not going to get into trouble, in either case.

When U say *"marking"*, do U mean a small quantity of urine on a vertical surface?
perhaps 2 or 3 Tbsps? If he's VOIDING [emptying his bladder] indoors, that's a whole other topic.
Voiding can be anything from 4-oz to a quart, depending upon the size of the dog & how long it's been
since they last urinated.

i'd get into the habit of going outside into the garden *with* him every couple of hours, off lead, 
WAIT till he sniffs round, & as soon as he voids, praise at that moment, & give a treat when he's done.
Then play for a few minutes - throw a ball, tug, anything - before returning indoors. I'd leash-walk him 
to void last thing at night & first thing each morning, to confirm he's gone, how much, etc, On Leash.

i'd also schedule a vet-check ASAP. Occult UTIs can cause chronic flare-ups which come & go, the dog 
[or cat or ___ ] can't HOLD the urine during a flare, as the ureter & sphinter control are poor when there's 
inflammation - internal swelling, irritated lining, etc. If this has been going on for more than a few weeks, 
i'd ask my vet to do a direct needle-sample of urine from the bladder, & CULTURE it - there's a new 
& very nasty, multiply-resistant UTI loose in the world; it could easily be an undiagnosed chronic infection
that only shows symptoms during a flare.

Tell the BF to hold his own water - & consider getting a *belly-band* for the dog. They're cheap, safe, 
simple, U line 'em with a peel-N-press panty liner [max-absorbency to begin with, then use medium], 
change the liner at least every 24-hours even if it's dry, & he won't be leg-lifting in the house anymore.
All-cotton with a COVERED elastic are best - if the elastic comes into direct contact with the dog's skin, 
there can be allergy or dermal issues - rash, moisture, etc. Buying 2 gives U one to wash, & a spare 
for wear.


----------



## Danielmorgan

your post looks real deal to me and I'm intended to get benefited with the suggestions you have conveyed through you post here.. will consider it for the doings of the same..


----------



## Emilyyu

Good suggestions about how to train our dogs to pee outside.I wonder how can i train him to behave well, for example my dog will often bark at the passengers and he likes to chewed the carpet, couch pillow, even my shoes. What should i do to stop him and make him dare not to do next time?


----------



## CarlyR

Please help !!! i have a 3 year westie called Bob, who on the whole toilet trained ok, yes took abit longer than i would have liked (over 12 months) but never mind! However i do have 2 issues that leave me pulling my hair out.

1) he does not like going in the garden for a wee when its raining! he'll go out for a walk when its raining (but not in the dark!) and he'll go out to bark at the local cats but every time its raining i find a puddle either in the kitchen or in the kitchen doorway on the carpet.

2) my mums dog Ben a GSD has been Bobs Best friend since the day i brought Bob home. I have Ben a couple of days a week when dad is at work and i have him whenever they are away. Again when Ben is here Bob leaves me little wet patches (and sometimes poo) in all sorts of places (also does this when we go to Bens house)

Bob has a dog flap that he now refuses to use (unless he is going out to bark at the cats) as sits there nudging it until i go open the door as thats what i have to do when Ben is with us as he is to big for the dog flap! Bob will sit and nudge it again to tell me he wants to come in. Not sure if he has just got lazy or is actually very clever lol

either way i have had enough of cleaning up after him unneccessarily. even if the back door is open and it starts raining he will still pee in the kitchen.

Please please help!!!


----------



## xxbecky13xx

Hello all,

I have a 4 month old Jack Russell cross Chihuahua. He is a lovely dog but we are having real problems getting him to continue doing his business outside instead of the floor or in his crate. I am consistent with his going outside, he will go all night without an accident, pees outside first thing in the morning then poos outside after his breakfast. After that he is a nightmare getting him to go outside especially if its wet. I take him to his area outside at least once an hour and he walks around and doesn't go, the minute he walks in the door he pees on the floor or in the lounge before he gets to his crate. He also poos in his crate all the time, even after hes been outside. Everyone says it must be me not taking him out enough but I am doing everything I was told to do he just doesn't take note of it. 

help please.


----------



## carlyh21285

Hi, I have had my male Shih Tzu for around 4 months now. Over the last month he has started peeing on the sofa and on his blankets when my back is turned! He was fine up until now! (He is 2 years old) Also at night he has began peeing/pooing even though he is let out to the toilet late! I have tried training pads, (no joy) rewards for going outside (still no joy), having him sleep in his cage (even less joy as I then have that to clean every morning out of the cage, his bed and himself!!) Someone told me it could be due to lack of attention but he is a very pampered pooch and gets a lot of attention! Has anyone got any ideas about this? I need help before I lose the plot!!! Thanks, Caroline


----------



## leashedForLife

carlyh21285 said:


> Hi,
> 
> ...I've had my [2-YO] male Shih Tzu for around 4-months now.
> 
> *Over the last month, he's started peeing on the sofa & on his blankets when my back is turned!
> He was fine... until now*[.]
> Also *at night he pees / poos even tho he's let out to toilet late*[.]
> 
> I have tried training pads, (no joy) rewards for going outside (still no joy), having him sleep in his cage
> (even less joy, as I then have... to clean every morning [his] cage, his bed and himself!)
> 
> Someone told me it could be due to lack of attention but he is a very pampered pooch and gets
> a lot of attention! Has anyone got any ideas about this? I need help before I lose the plot!
> Thanks, Caroline


Vet, vet, vet.

he was fine for 3-mos; something has radically changed, & if it's physical or medical, all the behavior 
advice in the world won't help. Eliminate that first.


----------



## veganqueen

We are at our wits end!!! We adopted Tucker, who we believe is a chinook, 2 years ago. It took him one year to be confidently house trained. Now, he is doing it in the house again! I honestly don't believe that they don't know its wrong. I just came home and went upstairs. Tucker came up with me and stopped on the top step, put his ears back and went back downstairs. I immediately knew he did something...he pooped in our office room. 

He has a "spot" in the back yard but has been avoiding it for some reason. His favorite thing to do is sit outside on his chain and just be. Problem is, we have to be out there with him and it's been humid and unpleasant outside AND Ive been running around a lot. Im on summer break from returning to college so we are home with him quite a bit. 

He will approach us and bark as if he's got to go NOW! but when we get to the door he backs away or if he does go out onto the deck, he aims in the direction of his tether because he wants to enjoy the outdoors.

I WONT let a dog's desire rule my life or ruin my house. What can be done?!
Thank you,
Molly


----------



## leashedForLife

veganqueen said:


> We're at our wit's end!
> We adopted Tucker, [possibly] a Chinook, 2 years ago.
> It took him one year to be confidently house trained. Now, he is doing it in the house again!
> 
> *I honestly don't believe that they don't know its wrong.*


then obviously, Molly, he pees or poos indoors merely to p*ss U off.  Right?

Does that even seem likely? That he'd go out of his way to stir up trouble for himself? :skep: 
It doesn't seem so to me - & i've had years on end to 'prove' that dogs consciously decide to soil 
indoors, just because they're 'stubborn' or 'dumbinant' or some other illogical reason.

Dogs don't LIKE getting into trouble; if they can avoid it, 99.999% will - gladly.
Causing their owner or family grief doesn't win them friends or smiles - quite the opposite, it earns them 
anger, shouts, scoldings, smacks, time-outs, lectures, & other yucky consequences. 
Who'd want those?!


veganqueen said:


> I just came home and went upstairs. Tucker came up with me and stopped on the top step, put his ears back
> and went back downstairs. I immediately *knew [he'd done] something...* he pooped in our office...


what that means is that Tucker is smart-enuf to have figured out that YOU + dog-waste = Trouble - 
& as i said before, he doesn't like trouble; he wants a peaceful life, not conflict.

"Guilt" isn't guilty; dogs *appease* when they feel threatened or anxious 
about conflict; he doesn't want a fight or to be scolded, he's broadcasting appeasement - "Don't be mad", 
just like any kid does when adults get angry, & the child doesn't understand why they stomp or yell.


veganqueen said:


> He has a "spot" in the backyard, but has been avoiding it for some reason.


Why? 
Has something changed?



veganqueen said:


> His favorite thing to do is sit outside on his chain & just be. Problem is, *we have to be out there with him*
> & it's been humid and unpleasant outside AND I've been running around a lot. I'm on summer break from returning to college, so we are home with him quite a bit.


Why must U be outside with him, if he's on a chain? 
Is the yard unfenced? Can he be harassed by passersby or other dogs?
Is he vulnerable? Is he a nuisance barker when he's solo? 
Does he get anxious if outside alone?


veganqueen said:


> He will approach us & bark as if he's got to go NOW!, but when we get to the door, he backs away, or if he
> does go out onto the deck, *he aims in the direction of his tether* because he wants to enjoy
> the outdoors.


Will he void while tethered? if so, i'd use it. :yesnod:


veganqueen said:


> I WON'T *let a dog's desire rule my life* or ruin my house.
> What can be done?!


how is this *"his desire"?*

U can simply prevent the problem by crating him in a SHIPPING crate - not a wire "show" crate, as they 
have wire walls & shallow trays; the walls won't confine a male dog's urine, & the trays splatter, leak, tip, 
crack if they're plastic, BEND if they're metal, & are basically useless, IMO.

Buy a used airline-approved shipping crate - for about half the price of new; how much does he weigh?
My 80# Akita used a 2 x 3 x 2 crate, & had plenty of room; it served as a bedside table, with my lamp 
on the roof, plus her leash, my books for night-time reading, & other bits.

Has the VET seen him in the past 10-days? 
When did the problem start? 
is it mostly stool, or more often urine?

is he MARKING, or does he empty his bladder?


----------



## veganqueen

leashedForLife said:


> then obviously, Molly, he pees or poos indoors merely to p*ss U off.  Right?
> 
> Does that even seem likely? That he'd go out of his way to stir up trouble for himself? :skep:
> It doesn't seem so to me - & i've had years on end to 'prove' that dogs consciously decide to soil
> indoors, just because they're 'stubborn' or 'dumbinant' or some other illogical reason.
> 
> Dogs don't LIKE getting into trouble; if they can avoid it, 99.999% will - gladly.
> Causing their owner or family grief doesn't win them friends or smiles - quite the opposite, it earns them
> anger, shouts, scoldings, smacks, time-outs, lectures, & other yucky consequences.
> Who'd want those?!
> 
> what that means is that Tucker is smart-enuf to have figured out that YOU + dog-waste = Trouble -
> & as i said before, he doesn't like trouble; he wants a peaceful life, not conflict.
> 
> "Guilt" isn't guilty; dogs *appease* when they feel threatened or anxious
> about conflict; he doesn't want a fight or to be scolded, he's broadcasting appeasement - "Don't be mad",
> just like any kid does when adults get angry, & the child doesn't understand why they stomp or yell.
> 
> Why?
> Has something changed?
> No, nothing has changed!! We are still in and out at random times and it seems by the looks of the poo that he does it right after we leave even though I JUST took him out before we walk out the door.
> 
> Why must U be outside with him, if he's on a chain?
> Is the yard unfenced? Can he be harassed by passersby or other dogs?
> Is he vulnerable? Is he a nuisance barker when he's solo?
> Does he get anxious if outside alone?
> 
> It is part of the paperwork we signed with the rescue that we won't let him be outside by himself. We live in Mpls with an unfenced yard and its sad to say, but dog napping happens so we do NOT leave him unattended. He's a very handsome dog who has NEVER once nipped, barked at other dogs, rather he just lays in the sun outside tethered with me on the deck (our yard is very small) By all means hes the perfect dog!! (minus this new habit of his)
> 
> Will he void while tethered? if so, i'd use it. :yesnod:
> 
> I'm sure he will. He is MY dog, as in, he's like a velcro to me. If Im on the deck, hes on the deck. If I'm going to the bathroom, he follows me. haha
> 
> how is this *"his desire"?*
> 
> U can simply prevent the problem by crating him in a SHIPPING crate - not a wire "show" crate, as they
> have wire walls & shallow trays; the walls won't confine a male dog's urine, & the trays splatter, leak, tip,
> crack if they're plastic, BEND if they're metal, & are basically useless, IMO.
> 
> We have a crate big enough for him so thats what we are going to resort to I guess...The only thing I can think of is...when he would poop before we would praise him and take him for a little walk. Thats not always convenient. I know you think Im crazy, but Im thinking that since he's not getting his walks he's mad. We first started training him that we'd walk him, he'd poop, then we would walk home. Another trainer told me that to him, that means if he poops its buh-bye walk and hello indoors. So, thats when we started taking him to a spot (he actually chose it) and kept up that routine. We DONT want him to get in the habit of thinking he can only poop if he goes on a walk again..Winter's here are kinda ugly.
> 
> Buy a used airline-approved shipping crate - for about half the price of new; how much does he weigh?
> My 80# Akita used a 2 x 3 x 2 crate, & had plenty of room; it served as a bedside table, with my lamp
> on the roof, plus her leash, my books for night-time reading, & other bits.
> 
> Has the VET seen him in the past 10-days?
> When did the problem start?
> is it mostly stool, or more often urine?
> 
> No, he has not seen the vet. He needs to go in for his shots though. He's a car sick dog which is another sad thing. Sometimes the meds work, sometimes they dont.
> 
> is he MARKING, or does he empty his bladder?


When we walk, he marks everything like he thinks he owns the whole street!!! He even lifts his leg when NOTHING comes out as a sign. Annoying on walks to have him constantly stop and do this, or try to. THank you for your reply and taking the time to ask meaningful questions. I appreciate it!!!- Molly


----------



## leashedForLife

hey, Molly - 
the crate sounds like the best option; it's possible for anxiety or stress to *speed-up* gut motility, 
which results in stools that 'look normal' - not diarrhea nor mushy - but they zip thru the bowel way-faster, 
& the dog can't wait; they've gotta go, when it reaches the anus.

Sometimes if U see them soon after they're excreted, U'll notice a 'wrapper' of clear slime - this is 
a classic sign of GI-agitation & increased gut-motility / irritability of the bowel, caused by stress. 

i'd suggest OTC calmatives plus the crate - 
this post includes what, when, how, how much, etc:
Pet Forums Community - View Single Post - dog body-language - and why it matters so much...

Please note the suggestion to use a minimum of 3 - with each using a different sensory route: oral, tactile, 
or olfactory. Whichever is most-effective will help to kick-start the other 2, thus increasing the effect.
NONE of the calmatives require a Dr's scrip, interact with food / drink or meds, or pose dosage risks. :thumbsup:

He should seem less anxious overall with the calmatives; they don't sedate, nor are they tranquilizers.
They simply help the animal [or human-animal] to relax, & reduce stress.


----------



## kirstie5

Hello, im also looking for some advice with regards to toilet training. Charlie is a 3month old retriever and he seemed to learn quite quickly that he needs to do his business outside. Recently though it seems like he's moving backwards and getting worse rather than better. He's having more and more accidents inside. Im worried he's playing us! He sits at the door when he wants to go out but a lot of the time he just eats shrubs, bark and stones and I spend the time chasing him and taking things out of his mouth. After a while of this we bring him in and he will do this again a few minutes later. We can be outside for ages, let him out whenever he likes then he just comes in and pees in the house! 

We think we're doing everything right, we have a command word (if that's the right word) and we praise him and give treats when he pees outside. My worry is he knows we let him out when he sits at the door so he does so he can eat his bark! 

If anyone can help id really appreciate it as we're struggling at the minute!


----------



## Dannar

I recently rescued a toy poodle/terrier bread (or so they told me) and he is about 5 years old and so far has adjusted very well. I've been crate training him while I work and at night and he's growing less and less resistant to it. 

He is also mostly house trained, in that he'll go as soon as i take him outside and knows thats the time to "make" -however he still needs to be watched because he'll go in the house sometimes. He's gone on the sliding door by his food when I first got him which seems normal and hasn't gone there again. He's never gone in his crate (thankfully) but he's gone in the house a few other times when he's just come back from a walk or when he doesn't seem like he needs to go out but he just pees. 

Any advice for how to "finish" his house training?


----------



## leashedForLife

Dannar said:


> Any advice for how to "finish" his house training?


A - read the thread.
That's what it's for; USE the links to actually read articles. 
DOWNLOAD the free books - & read them.

B - *stop* giving the dog access to areas U aren't supervising.

C - *crate the dog* whenever U aren't in The Same Room, watching him.

D - *use a schedule* & *keep a log*, so U know when s/he was last out, what s/he produced 
if anything, & how much of it. A tablespoon of urine won't empty a bladder.


----------



## RussellTerror

Well, this reminds me of our dog - a Yorkshire terrier who was larger than his siblings since he was born and the lady who sold him to us told us to except him to be not only larger than a regular Yorkshire, but also wilder. We didn't have any real experiences back then - only my grandparents had a small mix of pekingese dog and chihuahua, a female and she was a very calm one.

On the other hand, our little Chewie was like a space blast. We tried to train him at home, but sometimes he wasn't interested or had a really short attention span. We were kind of desperate and some people asked us why did we chose such a difficult breed as a first dog... Well after two years, Chewie became calmer and finally started to listen to some basic commands. So in short, I think, sometimes it's about both loving the dog and letting him mature too. I know that I am not saying anything new, but I wanted to add my experience.


----------



## jd26

Hey all first post here.. Looking for some guidance.. 

The other half has a 4 year old chihuahua (possibly cross but we are insure) she has owned him from about 6months old as another family member had him first and got bored 

Now he is a lovely little one apart from Still having toilet issues! We have looked here and elsewhere for tips on training older/awkward dogs but seem to be exhausting each option. 

He gets regular walks and does go to the toilet while out but still finds the need to pee and mess in the house!

I'm not living with the dog so doing the best I can while around and getting the family to all do the same things with the dog...

When I'm with him ill take him out back and supervise until he goes which he usually does but one second of turning your back seems to end badly

Am I wrong to think a new option to try could be keeping him on a leash with someone at all times when we are home with him? Letting him off out the back to 'go'? 

He never seems to go at night in the kitchen where he sleeps or during the day whilst put to bed if everyone pops out.. He has been recently neutered and has recently moved house to looking to catch and fix this ASAP.. He's much loved and we do not scold for messing indoors as per advice on here..

He's also a wanderer loves to shoot out the door and not come back given the chance but that's a different one alltogeeeeether. 

Sorry for the essay

JD


----------



## S_Rollo

ad_1980 said:


> Thread is really good hon
> 
> I might just add that i wish someone would've told me about the small dog thing BEFORE we got Mika. That being said though, this boy is a year old and he still fails to stay dry overnight! my patience is wearing thin. I'm almost tempted to build him a little house, buy him the warmest jumper ever to keep him warm overnight and just leave him outside lol! (I wouldn't really do that) So if anyone can give me ideas on how to stop this dog peeing in my house overnight it would really help. He's fine being left alone during the day he doesn't do any business in the house then. Its night time/early morning before we wake up that we have a problem with!


I am having the same problem 
My pup sleeps on the sofa, she was clean in the crate so earnt the right to sleep on the sofa with our older boy, but she slowly started having accidents over night againa and now goes every night. We have tried getting up at night and it doesnt work she either has already gone watever time we get up or we get up for example at 5am take her out and when we get up about 9am she has gone indoors. 
She has stopped going indoors during the day and is slowly getting that if she wines and signals to us we will take her out.

What else do I try?


----------



## leashedForLife

jd26 said:


> OH has a 4-YO Chi (possibly cross...
> 
> He gets regular walks and does go to the toilet while out but still finds the need to pee and mess
> in the house!





S_Rollo said:


> I am having the same problem
> 
> My pup sleeps on the sofa, she was clean in the crate so *earnt the right to sleep on the sofa*
> with our older boy, but she slowly started having accidents over night again and now goes every night.


I really do think this sums it up:
SUPERVISE.
MANAGE.
CONFINE whenever not directly supervised. IOW...


leashedForLife said:


> A - read the thread.
> That's what it's for; USE the links to actually read articles.
> DOWNLOAD the free books - & read them.
> 
> B - *stop* giving the dog access to areas U aren't supervising.
> 
> C - *crate the dog* whenever U aren't in The Same Room, watching him.
> 
> D - *use a schedule* & *keep a log*, so U know when s/he was last out, what s/he produced
> if anything, & how much of it. A tablespoon of urine won't empty a bladder.


.
.
.


----------



## S_Rollo

Update

had a night out the other week so didnt get up in the early hours to let her out and she was clean we have not got up in the night since and she is clean! Not really sure how this has happened. 

I dont agree with the constant supervision at this stage due to the fact she knows what is expected and is just being lazy, if I crated her she just went in there instead.

Thanks for advice etc though it is appreciated.


----------



## leashedForLife

S_Rollo said:


> Update
> 
> ... if I crated her, she just [voided in the crate], instead.


just curious - 
How big is the pup now, & how big will she become? [*current* weight / *probable-wt* as an adult] - 
How big is her current crate [L x W]?

Pups who void [urine or stool] whilst crated are often in a crate that provides extra space - 
the pup can pee or poop over ==> there, then lie down <=== well-away from the waste.

U want a 'bedroom', not a suite with an adjoining bathroom.  Even young pups can be trained 
in a crate that will fit them as adults, by inserting a clean dry [low-odor] cardboard box, to take up 
the extra volume. My 10-WO Akita-pup was already sleeping in a 2-ft x 3-ft crate, but i put an empty box
that had once held a ream of 85 x 11 office-paper in the back. As she got bigger, the boxes got smaller. 

If one gets dirty [muddy paws] or wet [rainy days, beach runs...], just toss it & replace. :thumbsup:
.
.


----------



## Shivles

I got my 9 week old pup yesterday, he's not had his jabs yet and we live in a flat but we do have a balcony so I'm training him to go there until I can take him for walks. He has successfully done a poo outside and met with lots of praise and a treat but the wees are a bit of a nightmare so far. I catch him peeing and say HEY to distract him then lead him to the door and outside but then he just won't go! I've been trying to get a full wee out of him since lunchtime! I wait 10 minutes after bringing him out, nothing, I take him back in and within half an hour he's trying to wee inside again, repeat. Am I doing something wrong? Or will it just come eventually?


----------



## Fluffster

It just takes time, he's still so little. At the age he is, I'd be taking him outside about every 30mins, at some point you'll be lucky enough for it to coincide with a wee! They don't have much bladder control at that age, so basically when he needs to go, he'll just go. You'll get to recognise the pre-pee or poo behaviour too, sniffing lots and going round in circles, that's when you quickly call him outside before he starts to squat.

It's just a case of persevering and being consistent, he'll pick it up! Daisy is 23 weeks or so and still isn't 100%, she's now scratching the door to get into garden but I still watch her like a hawk as we do have the odd errant poo or wee!


----------



## Shivles

Fluffster said:


> It just takes time, he's still so little. At the age he is, I'd be taking him outside about every 30mins, at some point you'll be lucky enough for it to coincide with a wee! They don't have much bladder control at that age, so basically when he needs to go, he'll just go. You'll get to recognise the pre-pee or poo behaviour too, sniffing lots and going round in circles, that's when you quickly call him outside before he starts to squat.
> 
> It's just a case of persevering and being consistent, he'll pick it up! Daisy is 23 weeks or so and still isn't 100%, she's now scratching the door to get into garden but I still watch her like a hawk as we do have the odd errant poo or wee!


Ah thanks, I was hoping that was the case! That's every 30 minutes he's awake I take it, if he's snoozing I leave him and just take him as soon as he's up?


----------



## Fluffster

Yep, just when he's awake and then immediately when he wakes up if he's snoozing. I found that Daisy often needed to go right after a bout of running about or playing too. It did feel a bit like I was drowning in wee puddles for the first week, but as they get bigger, they don't need to go so often!


----------



## leashedForLife

Shivles said:


> I got my 9-WO pup yesterday, he's not had his jabs yet & we live in a flat... we do have a balcony,
> so I'm training him to go there until I can take him for walks. He's successfully [pooped] outside
> & met with lots of praise and a treat, but [pee is] a bit of a nightmare, so far.
> 
> I catch him peeing & say HEY to distract him, then lead him to the door and outside, but then
> he just won't go! I've been trying to get a full wee out of him since lunchtime! I wait 10 minutes
> after bringing him out, nothing, I take him back in and within half an hour he's trying to wee
> inside again, repeat.
> 
> Am I doing something wrong? ...





Shivles said:


> That's every 30 minutes [when] he's awake, I take it, [but] if he's snoozing I leave him & just take him
> as soon as he's up?





Fluffster said:


> Yep, just when he's awake & then *immediately when he wakes up* if he's snoozing.
> 
> I found that Daisy often needed to go right after a bout of running about or playing, too.
> 
> It did feel a bit like I was drowning in wee puddles for the first week, but as they get bigger,
> they don't need to go so often!


Shivles, 
i'm going to make a suggestion:
re-set Ur preferences to "40 posts per page" [the maximum], & READ THE THREAD - 
at least the 1st page, meaning the first 40 posts.

Download the FREE books.

Read the *articles*.

Notice the quotes & excerpts - the Rule of 7s, the Rule of Twelve.

With a 300-odd post thread, why are we re-typing stuff that's been posted here for over 2-years?
That's why it's a *sticky -* so puppy-buyers, adopters, & fosters with a dog of any age, who isn't yet 
housetrained, can find the thread.

But we shouldn't have to re-write the same stuff, over & over & over & ove.......... :crying:

EDIT:
_ I'm wrong, it's been FOUR years.  _


----------



## Deb87

leashedForLife said:


> THIRDLY -
> when U go with him, it's easy to teach him to *void on cue -*
> which is really, really handy for emergencies & for travel. :thumbsup:
> 
> *- his early toileting routine on arrival SHOULD HAVE BEEN on-leash every time, on a schedule -
> just like a puppy, after every trigger: awakening from a nap, as soon as he is awake AM,
> within 20-mins after a full meal or large drink, immediately-after any exciting event
> [visitors arrive, meeting a new dog / new person when out walking, after active play...],
> & so on; plus just-prior to bed, as late as possible.*


Me and my dog have gotten out of sync with her toilet times. When we got her (only 3 weeks ago to be fair) she was going wherever she liked, we managed to get this into one place and then we managed to get this into the garden when we took her out there. Now though she isn't going when I have her in the garden. Argh! I woke up this morning at 3.30 and thought I would check on her seeing as I was awake, hoping I would be able to get her to go in the garden but she had already done both on the floor. I cleaned that up. Woke up properly an hour later and she had gone in the house again!!!! I had taken her to the garden after cleaning up. Help me. Think a lead will work? I can start walking her soon so I am hoping that will help.

She is 6 months old and had been living outside in a kennel previously.


----------



## MiMiPosie

i need help with house training Rosi my 4 month old chihuahua will ask to go out if she needs a #2 but when it comes to wee's she just does it where she pleases


----------



## DigitalHelix

Hi everyone,
I have read some really useful info here.

I wanted to tell you all what is happening with my puppy at the moment and get your thoughts and advice.

We have a 20 week rough collie who has been with us since 8 weeks. This is our first dog and he is such a joy to us, but housebreaking isn't going well.

He get three walks a day, 7.30am (20 mins), 2.30pm (1 hour+) and 9.30pm (15mins) and we stick rigidly to this routine. He gets four walks on weekends.

His housebreaking has been slow but he was making progress. We originally started using a crate but had to abandon it as he would go mental in there to the point that I was worried he was hurting himself and this was quite frightening as he howled, barked and clawed until I thought his paws would bleed. I didn't just cave in easily, it really was not working.

We use puppy pads. He no longer poops in the house, and we had almost eliminated peeing in the house. I had gradually reduced the pads from two to one and gradually moved it towards the back door. 

He stubbornly refuses to go in our garden (which is quite big). I have tried taking his urine and poop to a part of the garden that I hoped would become his go-to place, but this has never worked.

In the past few weeks we seem to have gone backwards, and I can't think of a cause. He is now peeing regularly in the house, not even bothering with pads sometimes, and even pees in his bed.

He never gets a row for going in the house, and gets a treat and praise for each pee and poo outside.

I have no reason to suspect there is anything medically wrong, but I want to make sure I am doing everything I can to help him.

I would love to hear from you all with any helpful tips and advice.
Thanks for reading!


----------



## melonladybaby

Hello!!

I have a little sausage dog, she is about 19 weeks old and amazing, however...

I work 3 days a week and am at home the other 4, I take her out every hour or so when I'm at home to go pee and she does. I also reward her with a yummy treat when she goes. But she still messes in the house too. usually poops in the bathroom and pees on the sofa. Or does a little wee randomly on the carpet. 

I dont understand why she is still doing it as i let her out so much and praise her lots. 

Any advice would be very much appreciated


----------



## tmouhovski

Hello, my dog is 1 year old and I think its time to train him. But I am wondering if I use personal coach, or to try this myself.


----------



## iggyone

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> 
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


Hello,
Should we wake our 10 wk puppy to go outside every 60-90mins?
Thanks!


----------



## nadinejane

We have a 6 month old patterdale terrier, previous owner had toilet trained.

All has been fine except through the night which we are working on, but about two weeks ago he just started peeing all over in the house and even on my leg. We tried looking things up on the internet and read that getting him snipped might help.

So we have had him snipped and its been about a week or so and all has been okish but suddenly hes started peeing again on things.

He's in with someone through the day but still continues to just randomly do it.

I know people say not to tell them off but so hard when they suddenly do it when previously they would just do it outside.

Any advice or help on this matter would be great as we feel like we are back to square one.

TIA x


----------



## jk7

I've got a couple of problems with house training my puppy. He is 15 weeks old now and I haven't had him long. I started taking him out every hour, after every sleep and shortly after a meal. I soon found out this wasn't long enough, maybe because he was so young, so recently when possible I've been taking him out every 30 minutes and again after every sleep and meal. I've been using lots of praise, a clicker and giving treats when he toilets outside. But I often stand outside with him for around 10 minutes and he doesn't do anything but as soon as I let him in he runs straight in and does it inside which obviously gets me very annoyed. 

1. What do I do at this point?
2. Am I doing something wrong or will this click eventually?
3. I feel like if I don't do something when this happens he'll think it's ok

Thank you, any help is much appreciatedi

Ps when outside he stands at the door barking/crying to get back inside


----------



## S_Rollo

UPDATE

We managed to sort our problems, we stopped our dogs going on the sofa and changed a few other rules so we were definitely in charge. It was hard as I love my hugs on the sofa, this helped and in her own time she stopped. SUCCESS!!


----------



## leashedForLife

jk7 said:


> Ps when outside he stands at the door, barking / crying to get back inside


Where are U?
What's the climate like?

Yesterday it was TEN DEGREES FAHRENHEIT here, & if i was a barefoot infant, i'd have cried when outside! :yikes:

Are U standing out there -with- Ur puppy, or do U *put the pup out* & U stay indoors?
Infant pups are not gonna void when outdoors alone; they are too vulnerable & needy to feel "safe" alone,
out of doors.

U also can't effectively mark toileting success & reward ON THE SPOT if U aren't there, with the pup.
.
.


----------



## jk7

No I'm out there with my dog all the time with treats ready, he is getting a lot better now, I think it just takes patience there's still accidents in the house but he's running towards the back door when he does need to go out most of the time and that's the aim I guess so I'm quite proud of my little pup :thumbsup:

Oh and it is very cold at the minute so maybe that is part of the problem


----------



## Oscar2014

Hi, we are having a problem with house training our puppy. We are using puppy pads and have also been taking him out into the garden every hour and it was successful but he recently had a stay in the vets for a few days and since then he will not do the toilet outside? I have been watching him for signs that he is needing to go and I take him straight outside and stay out for about 15-20 minutes and he won't do a thing but as soon as we come in he does it :frown2: 

Should we just keep doing what we've been doing? Or is there anything else We could try? 

Thanks in advance :biggrin:


----------



## higratuit

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> 
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


----------



## tabithatabby

Having ploughed my way through this, I can see what we have been doing is wrong. so way forward?

Pup is a year old, a rescue standard poodle, we were told his toilet training wasn't consistent before we got him. He is piddling overnight on pads or close to pads. He isn't soiling indoors and usually I can walk him in the paddock and supervise that he is doing that, and pick it up. We've only had him two weeks, so early days.

We walk him around 1030-11pm and he is back out at 7am, he has been 50/50 dry or not. I can see that when we let him into the paddock to bounce around and gallop at 7am, we are in fact making it worse, that we need to train him that this is potty time first and not play time. So from now on, he will walk on the lead till he peforms then he can have fun time.

We take him out in the garden or paddock every 2-3 hours to offer him the chance to perform and have a run, and play with his ball. How do we make it serious for him i.e. explain to him that we want toilet first then play second?

I don't think he has been crated - we enclose him in the kitchen which has a tiled floor, so mistakes aren't the end of the world. So I should take up the water from 8pm or so, and the pads, and try to train him to be serious about this is potty time not playtime. You can walk him for half an hour and he won't do anything. Last night we were out for 30 minutes around 11pm, he did a wee but still did it overnight and being a big dog, it is a river! But his water was down over night. He is fed two meals of dry food, at 7 and 7 or thereabouts and is always taken out before he is fed.

Quite often if we have to travel him and we take him out to exercise him and give him the chance to perform, he doesn't do it then either. When he drinks he tends to drink quite a lot in one go, but he does have access to water all day.

We are first time owners, well had dogs years ago but not recently, so want to get it right with him.


----------



## candy2303

Hi there everyone, I'm new to this. I've had a pup for 3 weeks now and he is 18 weeks, when I got him I was told he was toilet trained etc etc...I soon realised he wasn't trained AT ALL with ANYTHING! He finally started doing the toilet in the back garden(I'm top floor flat) but nowhere else so after long walks I always had to go there for him to do the toilet. Now all of a sudden he won't go outside at all...this is extremely frustrating and feels like all our hard work has been for nothing &#128557; it's causing arguments within the house and also a lot of stress for me and my partner. What can I do??


----------



## bayrhy

Just wondering what everyone's experience is with night time wake ups. Our puppy is 16 weeks old...crate sleeper. She is still getting up 2x a night whimpering and wining to go outside. She does pee when we take her out, but I am starting to become miserable! Is this normal? She does sleep in our bedroom...

Also, as a side note, I don't think that she is empting her bladder when she goes outside during the day. She will go out, pee, then come in and pee on the floor. She has even gone 3x in the 15 - 20 minutes we take her out for a pee, but still the same thing happens. Vet says she has no infections or anything.


----------



## BorderRiever

I'd just add a little here. When we brought our Airedale pup Bob home at 8 weeks - far too soon, but the litter of 11 was too much for the mother - the first thing we did was put him outside and he did both jobs (after a two hour journey home) immediately; then we gave him his first meal, left him to relax in his cage for a short while.
We kept to this routine during the day with the lat toilet at night just after midnight, first one next day at about 5.30, always taking him to one of two locations in the garden and rewarding him with a tiny treat after every performance - and they are his two "loos" to this day!
Also, when we started walking him outside the garden it was always on-lead and we prevented him from just stopping and sniffing wherever he wanted to. The result is that he now knows to do his toilets before we go for a walk, he doesn't pee up to public seats, signs or trees and we have never had to pick up his poo while we're out. Sadly, that doesn't stop passers-by giving us dirty looks when they pass us just after passing or stepping in or on another dog's nice fresh deposit!
One of us usually says to the other "That's not one of Bobs jobs!" so others can hear.
It is important for dog-owners to actually check their dog's deposits, it is a good way of checking their health.


----------



## dweis1956

Help I need some advice. I have a 5 1/2 month old Westie I'm having trouble with potty training. He was in a wire cage all his life. When he's in his kennel he will poop and stomp in it and he will lay in it. I finally got him to use steps and go in the grass. Any suggestions ?


----------



## Burrowzig

dweis1956 said:


> Help I need some advice. I have a 5 1/2 month old Westie I'm having trouble with potty training. He was in a wire cage all his life. When he's in his kennel he will poop and stomp in it and he will lay in it. I finally got him to use steps and go in the grass. Any suggestions ?


Just take him outside frequently and praise him when he toilets there. He will soon get the idea that's what you want. It will mean getting up a couple of times in the night, but will be worth it.


----------



## Alistriwen

I'm sorry if this was asked and answered somewhere already in the threat but there's so many pages to go through ! I am in the process of house training my new puppy and I'm reinforcing good potty behaviour with treats and praise. It's been 16 years since my last puppy though and I can't remember if I'm supposed to give him the treat AS he's doing it or immediately after? I feel like if I try to give it to him during it'll interrupt him but I want to make sure he knows why I am giving it to him.


----------



## Thalbany

Hi, we picked our gorgeous 18 week old pug pup from the breeders last week. We are having problems getting him to wee outside. He won't go in our yard area or on his walks. We found a grassy area yesterday and he went eventually and the same this morning, but every other time he'll wait until we get back and go two minutes later! He's really good with pooing outside, and only had a couple of accidents. How should we go about teaching him he can wee not just on grass? Should we be crating him? (We only have a small kitchen so he stays there when we go out.) thanks!


----------



## Kayz018

Hi all...

I have a 4 year old Staffordshire bull terrier named Freya.. I've had her since she was 5 weeks old. 

I'm at my wits end because at night and only at night she will wee and poo on the kitchen/dining room floor (open plan) 
She won't do it during the day at all even if left when we go out for the day and if I have her upstairs at night she won't do it. 

She has been doing this for the past 2 1/2 - 3 years and I've tried numerous of things.. 

I really need help.. Stuck in a rut with having more of a relationship with the mop and bucket than my husband lol


----------



## kells77

Thanks! This helped so much!


----------



## Benica

My Chihuahua is 3 years old now. All along she was paper trained. But recently she changed her habit of doing it on the floor mat outside the toilet.

We have to change and wash the floor mat everyday. 

Can someone advise me why the change of habit? How do to about it?


----------



## arinski

PLEASE HELP ME!
I have a 12-week-old female Morkie puppy. I have had her for about 3 weeks now and am trying to potty train her but so far there&#8217;s no luck. We take her outside every 2 hours and she&#8217;s fine with that, but then if we go out and there&#8217;s no one home which is quite rare she will go anywhere in the house. There is no specific spot just anywhere. We have always kept a pad inside in one place so when we are out she can go there, but unfortunately sometimes she will go there and then other times anywhere. If anyone knows how to help me out to potty train her so she only goes on the pad when I&#8217;m out, it would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance!


----------



## HDelf

Hello, 

I've got a 13 week old chihuahua who we got on Monday. We are having a bit of trouble with house training him.. We live in a flat so it's a bit more difficult but we are using the puppy training pads and the scented smell training spray. Once we have sprayed it, we get him to sniff it so he knows the scent and half hour to an hour later he will go to the toilet on the pad. We get a new pad and do the same but then we find he has toileted somewhere else. We just can't keep it consistent and running out of ideas? Please help!


----------



## Sue1441

Hi I have a cavapoo she is nearly a year old and has reverted back to going toilet in the house she was doing fine she goes out for a wee but seems to refuse to poo outside any ideas ??? 

Thanks


----------



## Natasha1985

Help needed!

We have a Border Collie, Tibetan Terrier cross boy who is almost 6 months old. He was getting on brilliantly with crate training until we had a week of storms and high winds which seems to have set him back. He started waking us in the night, howling because he'd soiled the crate. We tried starting back at square one with a smaller, more restricted space but he'd still soil it and then howl. So we now leave the crate door open, and he has the run of his room, the hall and the kitchen. 

This has improved things, but pretty much every other night he will wee on a puppy pad in his room and occasionally soil too. Moving the puppy pad gradually towards the door doesn't work. We can't really tell him off for it because we don't see him do it, it's only really in the middle of the night. 

How can we get him to stop weeing/soiling his room in the night?

Thanks!

Natasha


----------



## MontyMaude

Natasha1985 said:


> Help needed!
> 
> We have a Border Collie, Tibetan Terrier cross boy who is almost 6 months old. He was getting on brilliantly with crate training until we had a week of storms and high winds which seems to have set him back. He started waking us in the night, howling because he'd soiled the crate. We tried starting back at square one with a smaller, more restricted space but he'd still soil it and then howl. So we now leave the crate door open, and he has the run of his room, the hall and the kitchen.
> 
> This has improved things, but pretty much every other night he will wee on a puppy pad in his room and occasionally soil too. Moving the puppy pad gradually towards the door doesn't work. We can't really tell him off for it because we don't see him do it, it's only really in the middle of the night.
> 
> How can we get him to stop weeing/soiling his room in the night?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Natasha


Set an alarm and get up and take him out, I have an 8 month old puppy who I struggled to house train and even now she sometimes needs to go out in night but thankfully being a light sleeper she will usually wake me, your pup could be alerting you to the need to go out but you don't hear him so he goes indoors. I can usually get Hilde to hang on from midnight to 7 am but sometimes she needs to go at 2am thankfully it's getting less and less usual.


----------



## Couger

Okay I will use that on my puppy


----------



## Tuonov

Hi,
Thanks for the excellent advice in this post. 

I needed some further advice though - my parents have just got a 10 week old German shepherd puppy. She hasn't got a crate, but so far seems quite happy to sleep on the dog bed in a part of the kitchen that's quiet and a little darker.

So far she's been going toilet on the kitchen floor. We've been trying to take her outside but what we are finding is that she seems to refuse to go outside, even going as far as holding it in, then as soon as she is back inside she'll go on the floor. We take her out first thing in the morning, after every meal, every time she wakes from a nap, and last thing at night, but so far no luck.

We've tried taking her out 5 minutes after her meals, but perhaps being a large pup she holds it in and doesn't go outside at all. Eventually if we stay out long enough, she'll get agitated which is presumably from holding out to go back inside.

Do you know anything that we can do to encourage her to go outside rather than in? 
All of the advice I've read online suggests using a crate, so that will be the next step, but is there any way to train her without using a crate?

Thanks in advance


----------



## jacquim26

Thanks for this post. Sounds rather easy (ish!) if you have a new pup but I have just rescued a 2 year old little shitzu cross. She is adorable but has had no potty training at all so to her it is perfectly normal to pee or poo anywhere in the house.
I live on the 81st floor of an apartment so it is not easy to go out all the time. In fact i got up at 6am before her to try and get her out before she had the chance to wake this morning and low and behold she decides to pee in the elevator! Mortifying (i live in Dubai where the idea of dogs is not wholly accepted yet, especially in buildings). I do have a balcony and am happy for her to go on there but ideally i want her to hold it and do it outside when i take her.
So any advice on where to start would be great thanks. Here is some info about my situation:
- I work 9-7pm but come back at lunch for half an hour to see her and take her outside.
- I have been leaving the balcony door open all day and all night so she can go in and out freely.
- When i am out i have to lock her in the bedroom (with fresh water, her bed, access to balcony and puppy pad) as she will bark at any noise in the corridor (again have to be careful of neighbors in Dubai).
- When i do take her outside she does not even sniff the ground - she does not associate it with going to the toilet.
- When she goes on the floor i clean it with bleach so she never really goes on the same spot, could be anywhere in the house.
- Once i have fed her i wait 30 mins before taking her out. A couple of times she has pooped out and i praise her like crazy but often she doesn't and then goes on the floor when we come back in.

So this is my situation. What is your advice please to train an untrained adult dog in a high rise building 

Thanks in advance

Jackie


----------



## lujuice

Hello! I have a 11 week old Weimaraner. I live in an appartement with carpeted floors, so am really trying to avoid accidents and teach puppy to go outside. He has learnt where his toilet place is which is great, but he is so quiet that I can't hear him when he wakes up in the night. So far, I've dealt with this by basically not really sleeping properly but I can't keep that up for much longer! I tried setting the alarm every 3hrs at the start but then he'd be asleep and so I'd stay awake until he gets up. Can anyone give any advice on what to do? Thanks!


----------



## Meezey

lujuice said:


> Hello! I have a 11 week old Weimaraner. I live in an appartement with carpeted floors, so am really trying to avoid accidents and teach puppy to go outside. He has learnt where his toilet place is which is great, but he is so quiet that I can't hear him when he wakes up in the night. So far, I've dealt with this by basically not really sleeping properly but I can't keep that up for much longer! I tried setting the alarm every 3hrs at the start but then he'd be asleep and so I'd stay awake until he gets up. Can anyone give any advice on what to do? Thanks!


Wake him and take him out for a pee, don't speak to him don't make a big fuss, wake him gently, take him out for a pee and then praise quietly, then take him back to be and you go back too.


----------



## patco

Meezey said:


> Wake him and take him out for a pee, don't speak to him don't make a big fuss, wake him gently, take him out for a pee and then praise quietly, then take him back to be and you go back too.


Your idea is really good.. The main thing to try is to SHOW him when you like or dislike his behavior!


----------



## kipling2536

Excellent thread!

The three nights we have had our two new adoptees there has been a little wee on the kitchen floor. We think we know who it is, Bertie the Spitz, he gets sooooooo excited, he's done a couple of tiny wees on a chair leg whilst in the throws of excitment, so we're trying to keep 'mad play' for the garden. We'll see how it goes, it could be his new surroundings etc. We are taking them both to register at the vets soon and get rescanned.

Good advice by all posters - thanks 

AManda


----------



## jayr123

I think my husband is starting to hate our new puppy. She's 6 months 1 week and we've only had her 2 days. We thought an older pup would be best for us and our 13 yr old daughter. Our full shih tzu is actually a shih tzu/jack russell cross and our house trained puppy is in fact.....not. She's getting there with the biting and beginning to realise toys are better than us to chew on but the toilet training is a joke. We have to give a drink every 2 hours as she would just empty the water bowl constantly. She's been checked by vet and given all clear. Her bed is soaked every morning. She gives no warning and just pees where she wants. Help


----------



## Catharinem

jayr123 said:


> I think my husband is starting to hate our new puppy. She's 6 months 1 week and we've only had her 2 days. We thought an older pup would be best for us and our 13 yr old daughter. Our full shih tzu is actually a shih tzu/jack russell cross and our house trained puppy is in fact.....not. She's getting there with the biting and beginning to realise toys are better than us to chew on but the toilet training is a joke. We have to give a drink every 2 hours as she would just empty the water bowl constantly. She's been checked by vet and given all clear. Her bed is soaked every morning. She gives no warning and just pees where she wants. Help


Not sure I understand : which is it, you've had her 2 days or her bed is soaked every morning? Is your huband yelling at her when she has a wet bed? Poor thing has probably been told off for having a wet bed in her last home, so even if she hasn't wet in the night she wets herself when you go to let her out or she hears you coming downstairs as she's expecting a telling off. Put her outside first thing, don't even check her bed or make a fuss, just put her outside for her wee and poo. As she realises your arrival won't result in a telling off her nerves will settle, and at least the nervous side can be dealt with. For the rest, consistency and going back to basics - as soon as she wakes up ( in the day as well as in the morning), after a meal, whenever she walks in a circle and sniffs the ground. Your husband needs to give her a fair chance - blimey, 2 days is nothing, and even human children can forget their potty training when they start school or move house.


----------



## jayr123

Catharinem said:


> Not sure I understand : which is it, you've had her 2 days or her bed is soaked every morning? Is your huband yelling at her when she has a wet bed? Poor thing has probably been told off for having a wet bed in her last home, so even if she hasn't wet in the night she wets herself when you go to let her out or she hears you coming downstairs as she's expecting a telling off. Put her outside first thing, don't even check her bed or make a fuss, just put her outside for her wee and poo. As she realises your arrival won't result in a telling off her nerves will settle, and at least the nervous side can be dealt with. For the rest, consistency and going back to basics - as soon as she wakes up ( in the day as well as in the morning), after a meal, whenever she walks in a circle and sniffs the ground. Your husband needs to give her a fair chance - blimey, 2 days is nothing, and even human children can forget their potty training when they start school or move house.


I think we realised the hard way that people selling dogs can lie too. We went for an older pup as we were told fully house trained. She's never had a row for wetting bed or floor from us. We just clean up and say nothing. My husband wants to sell her on though.


----------



## Catharinem

jayr123 said:


> I think we realised the hard way that people selling dogs can lie too. We went for an older pup as we were told fully house trained. She's never had a row for wetting bed or floor from us. We just clean up and say nothing. My husband wants to sell her on though.


 How long have you had her?


----------



## Jamesgoeswalkies

jayr123 said:


> We have to give a drink every 2 hours as she would just empty the water bowl constantly.


I would make sure that your vet has *fully* health tested her as this is quite a lot for a pup to drink ....no wonder she needs to pee so much. Alternatively you may need to check her diet.

As for toilet training ....tis a slow and steady road at the best of times. Taking on an older puppy doesn't mean it isn't still a work in progress. You still have to think for her. Are you taking her out at night so that she doesn't wet her bed. Dogs hate wetting their bed area.

J


----------



## Gary Hodge

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


Hi I carnt get my dog to pee or poor outside she is almost 6 months old what can I do


----------



## joca

Can anyone help? We have a 16 month old Jackadoodle who was easily house trained when we got him as a young pup. Last week he started doing a poo during the night, in a different place every time, five nights in a row now! The vet suggested feeding him earlier in the day but that has made no difference. He is not unwell, has had no changes to diet, routine or anything else that might make him stressed or anxious. Last night we took him out at 9pm and he did a poo, took him out again at 11pm and he did nothing, came down to check on him at 3.30am and he had done a poo on the carpet.


----------



## Catharinem

joca said:


> Can anyone help? We have a 16 month old Jackadoodle who was easily house trained when we got him as a young pup. Last week he started doing a poo during the night, in a different place every time, five nights in a row now! The vet suggested feeding him earlier in the day but that has made no difference. He is not unwell, has had no changes to diet, routine or anything else that might make him stressed or anxious. Last night we took him out at 9pm and he did a poo, took him out again at 11pm and he did nothing, came down to check on him at 3.30am and he had done a poo on the carpet.


Can he sleep in a crate at night until more reliably going through? They don't like messing in their beds, so will be more willing to try to "hold it". It's not fair to make him wait too long though, can you set yourself an alarm and leave it a bit later each night? The other thing is, did you tiptoe down to check, or spend a while discussing whose turn it was to check him, pull on house shoes ( I go everywhere barefoot in house, hubby clumps around like an elephant), turn on stair lights etc? It may be you woke him up, and he went between you waking Jim up and getting to him.


----------



## Catharinem

For "Jim" read "him"!


----------



## joca

Catharinem said:


> Can he sleep in a crate at night until more reliably going through? They don't like messing in their beds, so will be more willing to try to "hold it". It's not fair to make him wait too long though, can you set yourself an alarm and leave it a bit later each night? The other thing is, did you tiptoe down to check, or spend a while discussing whose turn it was to check him, pull on house shoes ( I go everywhere barefoot in house, hubby clumps around like an elephant), turn on stair lights etc? It may be you woke him up, and he went between you waking Jim up and getting to him.


Thanks Catharinem, had thought about a crate but we gave his crate away recently as he wasn't needing it any more! He's been completely reliable at going through the night for over a year! Last night tried giving him his dinner later, and that worked - no poo this morning :-D Hoping that will solve the problem


----------



## patco

Gary Hodge said:


> Hi I carnt get my dog to pee or poor outside she is almost 6 months old what can I do


This looks like a serious problem.. Did you manage to leave him and if the dog stays calm alone in the yard for example???


----------



## Grace_polly

Help, my dog (shih tzu cross Jack Russell/Yorkie)
Still pees in the house at night. 

She's 2. She's been spade. We have a dog flap which is ALWAYS left unlocked. 

I take her out last thing at night and first thing in the morning. We also have another dog (5yrs old) and she doesn't pee in the house. 

We have a utility room, which the dogs have to go through to use the dog flap. 

Very often I'll find a pee puddle in here. 
It's tiles so I scrub most of the floor in case it's run between tiles. 

I use an ammonia free floor cleaner or disinfectant. 

Can you recommend anything else? 

It's not every night but I can't put my finger on what's causing it. 

We are moving next month. And most of the flooring is carpeted where they'll be 'hanging out' so, I wAnt to try and combat this ASAP. I've run out of ideas!


----------



## sarahgabriel

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


 the training can only be efficient depending the dog 's age and it'(s type ,


----------



## sidders2

When cleaning up accidents indoors, try using biological washing powder in warm water.

The enzymes in the solution work really well on actually breaking down and removing the odours as opposed to masking them, which I think is a key factor in training a dog to go outside.

It took a little over a week to house train our pup. It can be a little 'intensive', but having quick easy access to a large back garden made it so much easier for us.

Good luck to anyone currently toilet training...!


----------



## Alex Troy

Very informative thread. I especially appreciate CarolineH mentionioning that tell your dog off for pooping when your there will just make them feel like they cant do it infront of you. Sound advice, and will be implementing it. Not sure how I will confine the little one though for the night. Any thoughts on a pet gate?


----------



## bexh70

HELP!!
Trying to housetrain my puppy but he still keeps weeing and soon as he is in the lounge (sometimes as much as 4 times an hour).
I started off by taking him outside regularly to show him a toilet spot and rewarding him with that. He started off really positive and crate training him really helped and he can stay dry in his crate for around 4 hours now. He uses outside when we are out there and I take him out after waking and eating etc and he uses the garden - not always the same spot he uses two places. 

The lounge is the problem and I don't know what to do I don't tell him off inside but it seems excessive when he is indoors. We spend a lot of time in the garden and I am starting to wonder if he has too much freedom to go out there do I need to keep him in more until he is trained. Any recommendations would be great and I am
not sure if he is just a little young or if I am doing something wrong. Loki is 13 weeks old I have had him for 2 weeks. I know it doesn't happen over night but the lounge urination seems odd.


----------



## Su7

Hi our puppy is 15 weeks old & to be fair he never messes inside,i think that's mainly because we have the doors open all the time but I do watch him a lot & let him out if he is by the door. However we have an issue at night where when we wake up in the morning he has wee'd A LOT & more frequently lately poo'd a lot as well. This is on newspaper not all over the floor (poo seems to go a bit further). We take him out before bed every night & I leave a small amount of water down for him. We have a crate which he sleeps in but coz he is still messing we didn't think we should shut him in there at night. I also read u should until they were 12-14 weeks old. Also we have a 4 year old & I didn't want to disturb her at night.

He sleeps from 10 until around 6-6.30(6.45 if we're lucky) & he's been doing this for about 4-5 weeks. I'm not sure when exactly he is going to the toilet. Any help/advice or pointers (or telling me I'm lucky & expecting too much too soon) is very very welcome xx


----------



## LadyUkkey

Hello, we have a problem with our 8 year old Samoyed. She is kept in a kennel outside at night adequate space outside to mess and inside to sleep with a plastic bed and during the summer months she is sleeping in her outside part of the kennel which is fine as its dry and cooler there and her bed is dry but as it gets colder at night she wets her bed in her warm inside part then goes and lies outside as she has wet her bed. We did stop this initially by taking her blankets away but she has started it again as we are heading into cold wether again. I don't want to take everything out of there although the breed is a cold weather dog I don't think it's fair. 

She cannot sleep inside as she wets the bed if we leave her in the house alone, she enjoys her kennel, her own space.

We tried not as much water which is okay for winter but it's still warm in the morning at the moement. 

She is puppy pad trained we where informed so started putting pads in her outside part of the kennel which worked for maybe 2 nights but she then ended up sleeping on it or the rain got them saturated and she HATES puddles or wet matts.

We don't know how to tackle this she has no health problems the vet has said she is fine. All healthy. 

Help.


----------



## LadyUkkey

Su7 said:


> Hi our puppy is 15 weeks old & to be fair he never messes inside,i think that's mainly because we have the doors open all the time but I do watch him a lot & let him out if he is by the door. However we have an issue at night where when we wake up in the morning he has wee'd A LOT & more frequently lately poo'd a lot as well. This is on newspaper not all over the floor (poo seems to go a bit further). We take him out before bed every night & I leave a small amount of water down for him. We have a crate which he sleeps in but coz he is still messing we didn't think we should shut him in there at night. I also read u should until they were 12-14 weeks old. Also we have a 4 year old & I didn't want to disturb her at night.
> 
> He sleeps from 10 until around 6-6.30(6.45 if we're lucky) & he's been doing this for about 4-5 weeks. I'm not sure when exactly he is going to the toilet. Any help/advice or pointers (or telling me I'm lucky & expecting too much too soon) is very very welcome xx


 Hello I don't know if this will help. It it will help find out when your dog is going to the toilet wether it's as the same time or not. You can set up one phone or laptop or iPad as a camera which shows you the live stream to your other iPad or phone it's just an app like a baby cam app you can download for free...


----------



## SiksiMiksi

Hi,

I have questions and problems relating to house training my 3 month old puppy. I have had her since she was two months old and was told by the vet not to take her outside until after her third vaccine. She completed this recently and so I began taking her out. She loves walking. She loves being outside. And there's no problem with that particular aspect. However, she just will not pee or poop outside. Granted, I've only been taking her out for the past three days, but not once has she even tried to do anything. I've checked for solutions online and tried everything possible:


I took her outside as soon as I got up in the morning, as well as after every structured meal and whenever she woke up from a long nap. I took her outside before going to sleep, still nothing.
I work from home so I keep an eye on her at all times, and when she's started sniffing around the floor/squatting/looking like she wants to go, I scoop her up and take her outside. Nothing.
I've taken some of her "accidents" outside with us and placed them in the location that I want her to go in. She's sniffed them a little and still nothing.
I've tried running a bit with her and playing with her while outside. Tried massaging her stomach. Again, nothing.
If there has been an "accident" inside, or the start of such, I've taken her out without talking to her and placed her in the location that I want her to go in. Nothing.
I've let her off the lead once or twice to see if she will go around a corner when I'm not directly looking (although, I've crept around to see if she is doing it so I can praise her) and nothing.
My friend tells me that the reason she won't go outside right now is because the past three/four days have been rainy and its wet and muddy outside. I don't know if this is an actual factor or not. I've had her out for varying time periods. Last night before bed time, I had her out for 50 minutes so that she could do something (She hadn't pooped the entire day because every time I caught her squatting or readying herself, I'd stop her and take her out). Instead, she sniffed around and then got so agitated because we weren't moving and I wasn't talking to her or engaging her, that she began whining and trying to drag herself from being tethered to the lead. Then, we got back inside, and within five minutes she just pooped right next to me.

It's so exhausting to do. I live in a high rise block of flats, so I don't have direct access to a garden. I have to take the lift down to the ground floor before we can get out. She hasn't done her business outside once yet (except when she got very excited that another person was around and she started wagging her tail and peed out of excitement). She hasn't even looked like she was going to try and do it outside. So, I've never been able to reward her or praise her since starting to take her out. Is it normal for a puppy not to do this in the first few days? I've had an adult dog before, but this is my first puppy, so I'm a little confused and really have no idea what to do to try and get her to go outside.


----------



## Angie1961

krismtl said:


> It was relatively easy to housetrain our rescues - and now we rarely have any problems...have a funny story on this though...
> 
> Not too long ago was watching a movie (trying to finish it even though I knew the dogs probably needed to go out for a wee) and when it was done I went to the kitchen and saw Nero sitting in the corner with his ears back the way he does when I'm angry about something...very strange as as far as I knew he hadn't done anything wrong!
> 
> I looked around to see if there was a mess around or anything he might have done and nothing. Strange. I kept walking and checked the bathroom. Nothing. Very strange. Just as I was about to leave the bathroom I moved the shower curtain back and sure enough there was a clear trail of pee in the bathtub!! Have apparently inadvertently trained my dog to pee in the shower if he needs to go in the house!!
> 
> Crazy dogs they really do the funniest things sometimes


----------



## Angie1961

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


Can I ask what you all use as a praise word, I intend to use go pee pee to do the act, but if I say good girl am I setting myself up for disaster indoors? I have a clicker to will cclick and treat


----------



## Angie1961

Can I ask what you all use as a praise word, I intend to use go pee pee to do the act, but if I say good girl am I setting myself up for disaster indoors? I have a clicker to will cclick and treat


----------



## Cherrywhite

Hi I hope this is in the right place and I'm sorry if it isn't. I'm wondering if anyone can help me I am now at my wits end and don't know what to do.
I have a 8 month old Labrador and I'm having trouble with her toilet training. Since I got her at 10 weeks she has had so many troubles with her insides, it started with a parasite in her poo which she transferred an infection to her urine, this was diagnosed as ecoli and took 3 months of antibiotics to clear up. She also has to be on a special diet for her poo and still has days which are runny. 
I have followed all the ways to toilet train her except a crate but she still pees in the house and occasionally poos. She has gone all night without doing anything but especially during the day she goes more in the house than outside. I let her out every 3 to 4 hours sometimes she goes and then other times she won't and within a few minutes of being in the house she pees again. We have had her checked and there is now nothing wrong with her I just don't know what to do now. I have even tried with food but because of her diet even this didn't work. Can anybody help any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## Jasper & Ashes

CarolineH said:


> Whatever you do, never ever tell your pup off for toileting in the house in front of you, no matter how tempting that might be. Doing so just tells him that he mustn't let you see him do it so he won't go if you stand outside with him either but rather wait until he is back indoors and your attention is taken by something else!
> 
> 
> Take pup outside when he wakes up, after he has eaten and also every hour to an hour and a half during the day as well, especially when he is first learning - this amount of time can be lengthened in short increments as he gets better at it.
> Repeat a word or phrase when he is outside (I use 'Get it done!) and praise hugely when he 'performs'.
> Ignore all mistakes and clean them up without a word - it was a humans fault that it happened as they were not watching for the signs.
> If he sneaks off to do it (maybe because of being told off for doing it in front of his owner!) then be aware of that and keep an eye on him. :001_cool:
> Using paper is up to you but I prefer to teach pups to go outside.
> At night time, it does help if the pup is taken out last thing before you go to bed and then bedded down in a restricted area like a crate or puppy pen. Or you can block off a part of the room with an old fireguard or heavy, large objects etc.
> In the morning, take the pup outside as soon as you can, ignoring any mess he may have made overnight. I tend not to let my pups go beyond 7 or 8 hours at night.
> 
> Housetraining will take far longer if you work or go out a lot as nobody is there to teach him so be aware of that.  Some toy breeds are reputed to take longer to train so a little more work and vigilance may be needed with them, bearing in mind that tiny dogs have tiny bladders and bowels so may need to go that bit more often.
> 
> Remember, a dogs housetraining may take a backward step if it has been stressed by something, like a move or someone new has joined the household, or indeed someone may have left. Fireworks or thunder may also cause a lapse in cleanliness - when you are stressed or scared do you not want to go to the loo more often? Illness, particularly urine infections can cause temporary incontinence too so if your previously clean dog suddenly becomes dirty it may be wise to get him/her checked out by a vet.
> 
> Finally, be prepared! Have a bucket or tub somewhere handy with kitchen towel, cloths, disinfectant and a carpet cleaning spray in it along with plastic bags to put the soiled kitchen roll or cloths into. Clear up the mess first and then wash the area thoroughly with a fluid designed to get rid of smells at source rather than one that just masks them. I personally use Odor-Kill, both in my yard and in the house if ever an accident occurs.
> 
> *Mods? Do you think this topic might be 'pinned' please? TIA!*


Our dog was house trained very quickly. We had her from 10 weeks old and she was house trained in two weeks. The reason for this was she had awful diahorea when we first had her, which turned out to be worms and an allergic reaction to her food. (which is now sorted). Because of this we had to take her outside to do her business every 20-30 mins, by doing this she trained herself very quickly. She used to tap on the back door and bark to be let out, and now to this day (7 Months old now) taps on the cat flap to be let out. Although it was not a very nice experience for her or myself as her toilet was so awful bless her, this constant persistence of taking her outside really worked. She is now completely housetrained as from 12-13 weeks, and has a food that she can now eat. All in all a very happy saluki x Greyhound


----------



## neilo67

can you take your puppy into the garden to wee before its 2nd injection ?


----------



## leashedForLife

.
@Cherrywhite -
i'm sorry i didn't see Ur post much sooner, but please don't "let her out" to void; U cannot cheat, she needs an adult human to go out with her, on leash, & monitor. Somebody must *witness *what she voids [solid or fluid], how much, & where - so that U now know what places she favors, & can take her briskly to a favored toilet spot to do her thing. 
.
Also, the monitor needs to have *high-value tidbits*, pea-sized to half-pea size, *on their person *to reward the dog every time she voids outdoors - with warm sincere low-pitched praise accompanying her goody or goodies. Don't be cheap; this is no time for kibble, unless it's meat-based cat kibble & the dog has no food allergies.
Use such worthy rewards as cubed skinned / boned chicken, lean beef, turkey breast, low-fat low-salt cheeses [Mozz, Provo... ] cubed & frozen so they don't glob together in the bag, & similar. Pouch tuna or canned fish / chicken-breast are also popular.
.
A *lickable treat* can be a big thrill not only for housetraining, but also to teach cued behaviors or in B-Mod. Refillable tubes of food-grade silicone are very handy, come in all sizes, & are top-rack dishwasher safe. Fillings can be low-fat cream cheese AKA Neufchatel, mixed with yer choice of water-packed canned tuna or mackerel or sardines or salmon, or pouch tuna [not bluefin, please; their global popn is in freefall]. About 3 parts Neufchatel to 1 part drained fish is good; mash the fish with a fork, have the cream-cheese soften at room temp in the sealed package, & stir the fish thru it.
Store the mother-lode in a tightly sealed tub or even a zip-bag in the 'frig or freezer; load the silicone squeeze-tube from the mother lode, & date it on a piece of masking tape. Don't keep it out of the 'frig for more than 2-hrs, extrude a half-inch of goody & WIPE IT OFF the tip to clean the end before putting it in the refrigerator. Discard any leftover portion after 7-days, wash thoroughly & refill / date.
U can defrost the frozen mother-lode the night before U need it, in the 'frig; scoop out the yummy, refill the tube, immediately re-freeze the mother-lode.
.
Lick-it sticks are another option, but they are not very nutritious - they're junk food, so use them sparingly. They either push up like lipstick, or have a roller-ball which the dog licks. I wipe the top of the push-ups, & i wash the roller-ball & the screw threads, plus the inside of the caps, before refrigerating them - & i do not SHARE Lick-it sticks or roller-balls among multiple animals.
[I'm a trainer, & i don't want to spread anything among my clients' pets or among shelter pets or pets in foster.]
.
I can safely share lickable goodies from a squeeze-tube by using disposable gloves - i put a bit on my gloved fingertip, & the dog licks the glove, not the dispenser. When i switch dogs, i put on a new glove. 
.
I'd also buy an airline-approved shipping crate, & confine her when she cannot be supervised - introduce it with goodies, throw treats inside for her to go in & eat, put nice chewies in the crate & shut the door while she enjoys them [cow hooves, antlers, stuffed marrow bones, stuffed & frozen Kong-toy, etc].
Shipping crates are the gold standard for transport; WIRE crates are dangerous in transit & should never be used, they collapse in impacts, each wire rod is a potential impaler, they can crush or trap the occupant, or rupture.
Shipping crates are burst-tested to withstand impact, & the double-ended spring latch makes 'popping the door' impossible.
To save $$, buy a pre-owned / used crate via an on-line classified - some folks give away their crates once the pup is housetrained, which is a sin. 
.
A shipping crate is for lying down, not pacing or jumping; if the dog can enter, U-turn, & exit, it's big-enuf. // "Try on" a floor model at a pet-supply store to determine the correct size for Ur dog; bigger is not better, U don't want the dog rattling like a single nut in a large tin during an impact accident. 
.
She can sleep in the crate at night; if she needs to void overnight, set an alarm for 3-AM [assuming U go to bed about 11 & taker her out as late as possible] - get up, throw a jacket or robe over PJs, slip on shoes, open the crate, leash the dog, lead her out to a favorite spot, & WAIT - don't talk, fuss with a mobile, play, ____ , just wait.
She pees, REWARD & praise, indoors, dog to crate, leash atop crate, coat / robe off, shoes off, back to bed; 10-mins elapsed time, on average.

.
.
.


----------



## neilo67

leashedForLife said:


> .
> @Cherrywhite -
> i'm sorry i didn't see Ur post much sooner, but please don't "let her out" to void; U cannot cheat, she needs an adult human to go out with her, on leash, & monitor. Somebody must *witness *what she voids [solid or fluid], how much, & where - so that U now know what places she favors, & can take her briskly to a favored toilet spot to do her thing.
> .
> Also, the monitor needs to have *high-value tidbits*, pea-sized to half-pea size, *on their person *to reward the dog every time she voids outdoors - with warm sincere low-pitched praise accompanying her goody or goodies. Don't be cheap; this is no time for kibble, unless it's meat-based cat kibble & the dog has no food allergies.
> Use such worthy rewards as cubed skinned / boned chicken, lean beef, turkey breast, low-fat low-salt cheeses [Mozz, Provo... ] cubed & frozen so they don't glob together in the bag, & similar. Pouch tuna or canned fish / chicken-breast are also popular.
> .
> A *lickable treat* can be a big thrill not only for housetraining, but also to teach cued behaviors or in B-Mod. Refillable tubes of food-grade silicone are very handy, come in all sizes, & are top-rack dishwasher safe. Fillings can be low-fat cream cheese AKA Neufchatel, mixed with yer choice of water-packed canned tuna or mackerel or sardines or salmon, or pouch tuna [not bluefin, please; their global popn is in freefall]. About 3 parts Neufchatel to 1 part drained fish is good; mash the fish with a fork, have the cream-cheese soften at room temp in the sealed package, & stir the fish thru it.
> Store the mother-lode in a tightly sealed tub or even a zip-bag in the 'frig or freezer; load the silicone squeeze-tube from the mother lode, & date it on a piece of masking tape. Don't keep it out of the 'frig for more than 2-hrs, extrude a half-inch of goody & WIPE IT OFF the tip to clean the end before putting it in the refrigerator. Discard any leftover portion after 7-days, wash thoroughly & refill / date.
> U can defrost the frozen mother-lode the night before U need it, in the 'frig; scoop out the yummy, refill the tube, immediately re-freeze the mother-lode.
> .
> Lick-it sticks are another option, but they are not very nutritious - they're junk food, so use them sparingly. They either push up like lipstick, or have a roller-ball which the dog licks. I wipe the top of the push-ups, & i wash the roller-ball & the screw threads, plus the inside of the caps, before refrigerating them - & i do not SHARE Lick-it sticks or roller-balls among multiple animals.
> [I'm a trainer, & i don't want to spread anything among my clients' pets or among shelter pets or pets in foster.]
> .
> I can safely share lickable goodies from a squeeze-tube by using disposable gloves - i put a bit on my gloved fingertip, & the dog licks the glove, not the dispenser. When i switch dogs, i put on a new glove.
> .
> I'd also buy an airline-approved shipping crate, & confine her when she cannot be supervised - introduce it with goodies, throw treats inside for her to go in & eat, put nice chewies in the crate & shut the door while she enjoys them [cow hooves, antlers, stuffed marrow bones, stuffed & frozen Kong-toy, etc].
> Shipping crates are the gold standard for transport; WIRE crates are dangerous in transit & should never be used, they collapse in impacts, each wire rod is a potential impaler, they can crush or trap the occupant, or rupture.
> Shipping crates are burst-tested to withstand impact, & the double-ended spring latch makes 'popping the door' impossible.
> To save $$, buy a pre-owned / used crate via an on-line classified - some folks give away their crates once the pup is housetrained, which is a sin.
> .
> A shipping crate is for lying down, not pacing or jumping; if the dog can enter, U-turn, & exit, it's big-enuf. // "Try on" a floor model at a pet-supply store to determine the correct size for Ur dog; bigger is not better, U don't want the dog rattling like a single nut in a large tin during an impact accident.
> .
> She can sleep in the crate at night; if she needs to void overnight, set an alarm for 3-AM [assuming U go to bed about 11 & taker her out as late as possible] - get up, throw a jacket or robe over PJs, slip on shoes, open the crate, leash the dog, lead her out to a favorite spot, & WAIT - don't talk, fuss with a mobile, play, ____ , just wait.
> She pees, REWARD & praise, indoors, dog to crate, leash atop crate, coat / robe off, shoes off, back to bed; 10-mins elapsed time, on average.
> 
> .
> .
> .


i was planning on keeping her on a lead and take her to her spot in the garden 
im just worried that as she wont have had her 2nd injection


----------



## leashedForLife

QUOTE, neilo67:

i was planning on keeping her on a lead and take her to her spot in the garden 
i'm just worried [about] that, as she [has not] had her 2nd injection

/QUOTE
.
.
well, Neil, i'm glad to hear U intend to keep her on-lead for potty trips - that's excellent! 
.
as for risk of exposure, please read -
http://www.petforums.co.uk/threads/...dogs-vs-risk-of-contagion-cost-benefit.75012/
.
.
How many dogs have *had* regular access to that garden, in the past 18-mos? - Is it shared with neighbors?
Does it have easy public access, or is it enclosed by a fence or wall?
.
It's not other *dogs* that are a threat to a pup, it's dog WASTE with Parvo virus in it. The poop can be long-gone, & if U haven't had a killing frost, the virus will still be present in soil & on grass, etc, which grows up thru it. // that said, how many dogs or pups actually *contract *Parvo in Ur home area?
It's likely to be very low numbers - & lack of socialization / lack of habituation is actually a far-greater risk to the dog than the very unlikely risk of catching Parvo, which - just to ease Ur mind - is not very dangerous to pups 8-WO & up. 
.
even with 24-7 vet care, 85% of 5-WO pups who develop Parvo, die of it.  IV-fluids, meds, pro nursing, etc.
Conversely, 85% of 8-WO pups who develop Parvo, survive - with decent home-nursing, & no vet care.
.
The difference? --- The 3-weeks of growth, greater body-wt, more-mature GI tract, slowed growth of GI lining.
.
Ur pup, if they are 8-WO or older, is out of the danger zone. // Get her out & meeting new ppl, other dogs, seeing / hearing / experiencing new things. Go to the vet's waiting rm, read a mag, get her on the scale, [with permission] put her on a S/S exam table & give some treats.
Then go home. // Brief, happy intros to things she will be expected to encounter or cope with - elevators, fire sirens, passing traffic, bikes, shouting kids, _____ .
.
.
.


----------



## neilo67

no other dogs at home and the garden is fenced off thank you for your help ..i hear frenchies are had to potty train so id like her getting used to going outside from day one


----------



## Guest

I'm having issues toilet training star. I take her out regularly to wee and shes ok apart from the odd accident indoors but I can't work out her poo schedule at all. I take her out straight away after eating but I can stand out there for 30 mins and nothing. Then an hour later she will poo in the house. She poos between 4 and 6 times a day and there's no routine at all it's totally random. Also her tell tale sign is that she sprints about when she needs a poo but then sometimes she's just playing, so when I take her out she'll just sit there.


----------



## benfalkner11

thanks very helpful. new owner here


----------



## Flo's Dad

Hello all.
We have two JRT's, two sisters 20 weeks old. They are the most delightful dogs you could wish for, so full of life and love, energy and.............pee.

Despite the fact they have open access to huge garden they prefer to poo and pee indoors. We can play outside for an hour or more, but the moment they go back indoors they'll pee. There fast at it too, too fast for us to catch them!

The pee'ing is completely random, never in the same place. They have been known to pee the moment they've stepped over the threshold, most frustrating.

They are crated overnight and they are both happy with that. I still get them up at midnight for a pee and that was working great, until the last week or so. Now they are not interested, I put them on the lawn and they both just amble back to their crate whilst giving me that 'really' look!!

They are now dry overnight, before they would pee their own bed but not now. We take them out first thing in the morning, and at bedtime which is 9.30pm and usually get a result. But in the day when there's a lot of traffic and there in and out constantly is where the main problem is. 

Martini girls, anytime, any place, anywhere! 

There great round the park, fine off lead, come when called, great with other dogs, even pee here and there, but not poo, they like to save that till they get home.

The worst occurrence was the other day. My wife had been with them outside all morning, she came in for some lunch, the dogs followed her and settled on the sofa with her. The one got straight back up again and pee'd over the arm of the sofa, and then settled back down again. They had only just come in!! Very frustrating.

They don't seem to follow the rule book. They have fouled they own bed and quite often. They do not have a favourite place, they never got the puppy pad idea. 

A friend has a 4 year old JRT and she is still pretty bad, but he puts up with it, we would rather not.

Anybody got any idea's?

Many thanks


----------



## leashedForLife

*spamvicious* said,

... _She poos *between 4 and 6 times a day,* and there's no routine at all, it's totally random. 
Also her tell tale sign is that she sprints about when she needs a poo -- but then sometimes, she's just playing, so when I take her out, she'll just sit there._
_________________________
.
.

HOW old is she?!!? ... 4 to 6 times in every 24-hours is *not *normal. // Has she seen *a vet*?
Is the stool formed, loose, soft, or firm? // Is she gaining & growing? // When was she last weighed?
.
.
.


----------



## MelodyM

Hello! My pup is nine weeks old (so I know it's very early days!). But I'm just wondering if I am going about toilet training the right way. I take her outside very frequently through the day and praise and reward her for weeing or pooing outside. Although poos have been mainly outside (yay!) she seems to wee indiscriminately anywhere. In particular going through spells when she seems to make constant little puddles all over the place. Is that normal? I just quietly clean it up.

Funny thing is she is brilliant at night, loves her crate and hasn't had an accident in there since day one. I usually take her out once during the night but last night I accidentally slept through for six hours and she was still dry.


----------



## Flo's Dad

MelodyM said:


> Hello! My pup is nine weeks old (so I know it's very early days!). But I'm just wondering if I am going about toilet training the right way. I take her outside very frequently through the day and praise and reward her for weeing or pooing outside. Although poos have been mainly outside (yay!) she seems to wee indiscriminately anywhere. In particular going through spells when she seems to make constant little puddles all over the place. Is that normal? I just quietly clean it up.
> 
> Funny thing is she is brilliant at night, loves her crate and hasn't had an accident in there since day one. I usually take her out once during the night but last night I accidentally slept through for six hours and she was still dry.


This is much the same as our experience. The little puddles are most likely marking, there's something there that either she doesn't like or is not sure about. She will grow out of it once she realises there's nothing there or there is no threat.
You're doing the right thing, especially the cleaning up quietly. Just be patient, keep doing what you are doing and all will come with time. We were told our JRT's could take up to 12 months as they're known to be stubborn, but the one is doing ok, as for the other, oh dear.........MORE TRAINING REQUIRED!!!!


----------



## MelodyM

Flo's Dad said:


> This is much the same as our experience. The little puddles are most likely marking, there's something there that either she doesn't like or is not sure about. She will grow out of it once she realises there's nothing there or there is no threat.
> You're doing the right thing, especially the cleaning up quietly. Just be patient, keep doing what you are doing and all will come with time. We were told our JRT's could take up to 12 months as they're known to be stubborn, but the one is doing ok, as for the other, oh dear.........MORE TRAINING REQUIRED!!!!


Thanks - I hadn't thought about the marking thing. She only seems to do it at certain times of the day - so I don't know what's going on in her little furry head :/

I think I could be going about things wrong in one respect - as the weather has been fine I have been keeping the back door open a lot of the time and she goes in and out into the garden (under supervision of course). However I think this may not be helping her learn the difference between indoors and out in terms of toileting? - she doesn't seem to discriminate between indoors and out, and when I praise and reward her for weeing outside I don't think she makes the connection why I'm doing that (i.e. rewarding her for where she's doing it rather than just for doing it at all!).

Would it be better to stay inside at the moment and take her out regularly rather than going in and out all the time?

Any help appreciated.... thanks!


----------



## Flo's Dad

MelodyM said:


> Thanks - I hadn't thought about the marking thing. She only seems to do it at certain times of the day - so I don't know what's going on in her little furry head :/
> 
> I think I could be going about things wrong in one respect - as the weather has been fine I have been keeping the back door open a lot of the time and she goes in and out into the garden (under supervision of course). However I think this may not be helping her learn the difference between indoors and out in terms of toileting? - she doesn't seem to discriminate between indoors and out, and when I praise and reward her for weeing outside I don't think she makes the connection why I'm doing that (i.e. rewarding her for where she's doing it rather than just for doing it at all!).
> 
> Would it be better to stay inside at the moment and take her out regularly rather than going in and out all the time?
> 
> Any help appreciated.... thanks!


Unfortunately we're both here for the same reason, and we can't work it out either! We have also left our back door open in the good weather and with exactly the same result that you have. We've given up with the rewarding because, as you have found, there's no connection. We have saved the rewards for recall when we are out, we like to let them run and they know that if we call then there's food involved, and they always come back, but as for toileting it doesn't seem to work, they have not, or can't, make the connection.

We have two, they are sisters and twins but are completely different characters, the one is quick to learn, the other isn't. You would think that as the one hooked her head around the stairgate to open it the other would follow, but she didn't, and still doesn't.

Our two were born, spent the first 8 weeks of their life and toileted on hard surface, as it was, laminate. They still, were ever possible, toilet on a hard surface, i can only assume it's familiarity that's driving this, so it's a behavioral thing. They will if the door is open, come back in to toilet, unless we're outside as well then they'll go outside.

All i can say is that i'm working on it, and if find something i'll post. But they are both the most joyful and loving creatures we've had the pleasure to keep, i'm sure there's a solution, we've just not found it yet.

But to answer your question, we have also done the 'taking out regularly to toilet' only to find they go as soon as they go back indoors. There's clearly an issue but i've yet to understand what it is, but we're working on it.


----------



## springerpoo

We have recently acquired a puppy who is now 19 weeks old and we have various issues with him, and whilst doing some research I came across this forum, and this thread.
Although, as I mentioned, he has a number of issues which we need to address, 2 may be related and are relevant to this thread.

During the day he will go outside for the toilet, and in the couple of weeks we have had him he has never soiled in the house during the day - we have the patio doors in the kitchen open a lot of the time and the rest of the time we notice him pacing if he needs the loo.

During the night he is left in the utility room and sleeps in a cage - the cage door is left open so it is probably seen as more of a bed than an enclosure (he is not fully cage trained, but more of that later - subject to another thread I think), and this is when we have the problem.

When we let him out in the morning, there is always a puddle on the floor. In the beginning we would normally find a poo too, but in the last week or so the poo has stopped and he goes outside within about 10 minutes of being released from the utility room for it, normally after having devoured his breakfast. 

So the nightly puddle is the first issue.

The second issue is that every morning, after having been quiet all night, he will start to bark and yelp at the same time each morning - around 6.30 - 6.45am.

Now I these two issues may be related because there were 2 mornings when he did not start to bark and when I came down at 7.30 - 8.00 there was no puddle.
So could it be that he barks because he has made a mess on the utility room floor??

Without installing a camera there is no way to tell, but what do others think, and if this is the case - what can/should we do.


----------



## kidd.92

Hello All,

I'm afraid to say - I'm one of those people who has used the forum for quite some time now for various 'tips and tricks' but never actually posted! With that said, our housetraining problem has now come to a point where we don't know which way to turn so I'm hoping some of you may be able to offer tailored advice on our situation. So here goes..

We own a delightful Rottweiler/Staffy cross (Rescue) who is 15months who is full of life and love to give. Having both owned rescue dogs of various breeds in the past, we are no strangers to the problems likely encountered by rescuing. However, we have really been struggling with housetraining since taking ownership 6months ago. We were told by the rescue centre that she was housetrained (amongst many other things) but soon realised that wasn't the case.

With that said, here's to the point of what we've encountered and tried so far - roughly 5 nights out of 7, she will either poo, wee or do both overnight (she is confined to the kitchen), I take her out for a 2.5 mile off-lead walk every morning and eveing at approx. 6am/6pm where she will happily do her own thing and relieve herself when needed. Id leave in the morning around 8am but even when my partner was returning home around 3pm, she was finding mess in the kitchen. From what we can understand, there isn't any schedule to her needing to go - it can even be when we are there but be it, in another room. She doesn't tell us she needs to go, nor hide where she does it so we cannot simply understand why this is happening!?

We have tried all the usual - Not telling her off, putting her in another room, cleaning it with enzyme spray, tried puppy pads, taking her out every half hour before bed, providing chew toys/thing to occupy her, putting her in a crate (she hates this and we thought may have some relation to her previous life as it ultimately resulted in her continuously messing in her own bed), taken her to the vets (no problems found), changed her food, changed when she's fed. etc.. No result. Recently, I've employed the help of a dog walker to see if that helps short term but even when she arrive around 11am, there is often mess to be cleaned.

Its worth noting at this point that she's happy to go in the garden and we give her plenty of opportunity to do so. As mentioned, we are 6 months into ownership now and unfortunately, there has been zero progress so both my partner and I are at a loss. is there something we are missing? Having spoken to our local 'professional' - the only advice was to put her in an outdoor kennel with run so "at least the mess isn't in the house" but for obvious reasons, we want to see this through.

We would greatly appreciate some advice on this so hoping some of your may be able to help!


----------



## Marino Tilatti

If you stick closely to the following routine, you should be able to housetrain an adult dog within a week, or less.

Take time off to housetrain your dog properly.
Start using a crate the day you bring your pup home.
Give your dog at least six bathroom breaks daily.
Shower him with praise when he does a good job.


----------



## Felths

I'm struggling at mo it's still early days I know but we r not scolding just placing pup straight outside when he has an accident (usually wee) every time he wanders to kitchen or door we take him outside he is getting there the occasional poop in the house but starting to tell us when he needs to go which he gets loads if praise for and is fantastic.

At night is where the problems are.... he is now going in his crate well and without fuss I always say it's bed time so he gets used to it the first night he cried (we ignored) and he has got loads better the problem now comes in the early hours 2-3 he starts crying we have been going down to let him out as it starts similar to the whine he makes when he needs to go when we get down there he has usually had one or two poops which I ignore take him straight outside and ask him to wee then I clear up mess and tell him it's bed time put him back in the crate and the world ends!!! Crying and yelping night before last hubby went down to him last night we ignored and he did quieten eventually

Should I be going down when he first starts knowing he gas pooped or leave him is he being noisy as knows we will go down at that time??? We are absolutely exhausted up and down during the day training him is not a problem but during the night is killing us what with family life and stuff (at mo I am off work till schools go back and it's hard when I go back!!!) (yes he will be checked and let out fed during the day lol) hubby is even on about calling it a day but we owe it to him to work this through I know it won't be forever 

Any ideas and recommendations on the night time routine please and also trying to prevent any crying when he us left for a little while in crate during the day please


----------



## pewe

Felths said:


> I'm struggling at mo it's still early days I know but we r not scolding just placing pup straight outside when he has an accident (usually wee) every time he wanders to kitchen or door we take him outside he is getting there the occasional poop in the house but starting to tell us when he needs to go which he gets loads if praise for and is fantastic.
> 
> At night is where the problems are.... he is now going in his crate well and without fuss I always say it's bed time so he gets used to it the first night he cried (we ignored) and he has got loads better the problem now comes in the early hours 2-3 he starts crying we have been going down to let him out as it starts similar to the whine he makes when he needs to go when we get down there he has usually had one or two poops which I ignore take him straight outside and ask him to wee then I clear up mess and tell him it's bed time put him back in the crate and the world ends!!! Crying and yelping night before last hubby went down to him last night we ignored and he did quieten eventually
> 
> Should I be going down when he first starts knowing he gas pooped or leave him is he being noisy as knows we will go down at that time??? We are absolutely exhausted up and down during the day training him is not a problem but during the night is killing us what with family life and stuff (at mo I am off work till schools go back and it's hard when I go back!!!) (yes he will be checked and let out fed during the day lol) hubby is even on about calling it a day but we owe it to him to work this through I know it won't be forever
> 
> Any ideas and recommendations on the night time routine please and also trying to prevent any crying when he us left for a little while in crate during the day please


We had almost the exact same scenario which started on day one when we got our pup, and no one could come up with an answer that worked - and due to my wife's health at the time we could not get up regularly in the night to let him out.

From day one he was left in the utility room at night and we would get up in the morning to find one puddle and one pile (sometimes there might even be 2 of each) on the floor. 
So we went out and bought some cheap vinyl flooring to cover the slates in the room and left him to it. 
We go down first thing and would say good morning to him, let him out of his room and play with him then let him outside and clean the mess up.
At all other times if we saw him do his business outside we would praise him.

The morning presents continued until he was four months old then suddenly they stopped and he would even wait until after his morning greeting before he went out for his first motion of the day.

I am told by a dog behaviouralist that in his case the mess was purely because he could not hold it as he was very young and his bowl/bladder was still developing, but as he developed, and because he knew the toilet was outside and not in his room, he taught himself to wait.

At times we wondered if he would ever stop or if he would begin to think it was normal to mess the utility room at night, but we are glad we just tolerated the frustration as it worked out in the end.

*NB: *
Now before anyone criticises me for giving inappropriate advise let me say that I am not giving advise, I am simply relaying our experience with a similar issue to the OP's which worked for us.


----------



## PupPupDog54

Have you thought of taking her to a puppy trainer? They may be able to help.


----------



## suewhite

I adopt ex puppy farm dogs 5years old to 8years old and they have never been trained just did it in the confines of there cages, my latest is Cassie who I have had for a week and she is almost trained ( couple of accidents) she is taken out every 2 hours with me armed with pieces of sausage she gets a reward every time she goes, I think I have spent more time sitting in my garden this week than doing anything else, and also you need a name when they go so that they learn to connect that word with going, don't ask me why but I say " poodle poodle" my neighbours must think I have finally lost the plot standing there clapping and saying poodle poodle. x


----------



## Katytosh

Hi all, I have a 17 week old pup who is doing really well with house training (only the odd accident in the house). But my mum looks after him sometimes at her house and he seems to pee in the same spot near the door, regardless if hes been outside or not. We take him out every hour at her house but he still runs in and pees/ poops. We haven't ever told him off for this so I'm not sure what I can do to stop it? My mum also mentioned it's when she walks out of the room he goes and does it or whilst she's in the other room? Please can anyone help?


----------



## bonnie1

Hi all, I'm new to this forum and glad I found it! I have an 11 week old lab/shepard puppy named Lucy that has rock eating issues and it's hard to potty train her. If I could just open the door and let her out to potty, I would, however I have to take her out on a leash every time so she doesn't eat rocks. She also has to pee and poo a couple times in the middle of the night. Is that normal? She (and her siblings) were fostered for 1.5 months before I adopted her. Her foster mother told me that she had a "designated" spot in her yard that she let the dogs dig, and she would give them "sticks" to chew on! Lucy will also pick up wood chips along with the rocks and chew it till I can get it out of her mouth. She already has a broken fang on her lower jaw. I think she learned bad habits while living with her foster mother and it's hard to break her of it. The day I picked her up, (she was 9 weeks old then), she had been spayed that same day by the Humane Society. I really need suggestions on what to do with this rock chewing/wood eating issue! Thanks in advance!


----------



## Cookie’s Mum

I’m afraid I am also having issues with my 8month old mixed breed. I’ve read and implemented advice I’ve read on forums. She is fed at regular times ( 7am and 6pm), she is taken outside throughout the day and praised and rewarded when she toilets outside. She’s walked everyday ( she goes to the toilet when walked) and I also make sure I take her out about 10pm but I’m still cleaning up wee and poo. I clean up with non ammonia cleaner and have even tried vinegar and baking powder. 

The problem at the moment is mainly at night. I attempted to use a cage next to my bed when we first brought her home but she got so distressed she weed and pooed in there! I left it open during the day with toys and her bed but she went in there to toilet so I packed it away. I’ve read on so many forums that dogs do not toilet in their beds but she regularly does (even if the bed is new).

She is capable of going through the night and has done so for about 10 days in a row but she will revert back to overnight toileting. She not alone at night as I have another dog so I don’t think it’s anxiety. 

I dread getting up in the morning and my house stinks. I no longer feel I can invite people in because I’m embarrassed.

I intend to try the crate again tonight but if that doesn’t work I don’t know what I will do. Will she ever stop? I’m beginning to lose hope.

I would be grateful for any other suggestions.


----------



## Flo's Dad

Cookie's Mum said:


> I'm afraid I am also having issues with my 8month old mixed breed. I've read and implemented advice I've read on forums. She is fed at regular times ( 7am and 6pm), she is taken outside throughout the day and praised and rewarded when she toilets outside. She's walked everyday ( she goes to the toilet when walked) and I also make sure I take her out about 10pm but I'm still cleaning up wee and poo. I clean up with non ammonia cleaner and have even tried vinegar and baking powder.
> 
> The problem at the moment is mainly at night. I attempted to use a cage next to my bed when we first brought her home but she got so distressed she weed and pooed in there! I left it open during the day with toys and her bed but she went in there to toilet so I packed it away. I've read on so many forums that dogs do not toilet in their beds but she regularly does (even if the bed is new).
> 
> She is capable of going through the night and has done so for about 10 days in a row but she will revert back to overnight toileting. She not alone at night as I have another dog so I don't think it's anxiety.
> 
> I dread getting up in the morning and my house stinks. I no longer feel I can invite people in because I'm embarrassed.
> 
> I intend to try the crate again tonight but if that doesn't work I don't know what I will do. Will she ever stop? I'm beginning to lose hope.
> 
> I would be grateful for any other suggestions.


If your dog is soiling her crate then her crate is too large. It needs to be big enough to walk into and turn round, no more. Think more den, less bedroom. We cover ours with a blanket as well. Ours soiled their crate as well, we bought one half the size and the two of them could barely get in and turn round, but they still use it and they don't soil it any more.
As for general soiling, ours are 13 months and still wee indoors if we're not watching them. They are not allowed upstairs and are limited to the conservatory and the kitchen when we're in, although we always sit with them. If we go out there back in their crate and there quite happy with that.

They do not let us know when they want the loo, they just wonder off and we have to follow them, and put them outside. If you havnt noticed they have gone then we're going to find a puddle, they still do that now.

But they no longer foul their crate, so as soon as we open the crate it's straight outside for a wee.

There a lot better now but we still have to watch them, and we still put them outside every hour or so, and we still don't let them upstairs on their own.


----------



## Flo's Dad

The


----------



## Flo's Dad

The crate in the kitchen, they usually go to bed about 9.30pm. Up at 6am. Back in if we need to go out, we can't trust them in a room on their own.


----------



## Flo's Dad

Butter wouldn't melt. Nightmare.


----------



## Cookie’s Mum

Thank you for responding. The crate we have Is a similar size to yours so I don’t think it’s too big for her now but it may have been when we first brought her home though. My older dog won’t be using it as he gets too hot when cookie curls up with him. I will certainly try putting the blankets on the top as it does make it look more appealing. Have your dogs always been happy to be shut in the crate? Cookie really didn’t like it even though she had slept in a crate with her litter and mother overnight. I even put a soft toy in with her. 

I do limit the area she uses during the day and we have a pet gate on the stairs but she still occasionally manages to toilet behind my back so to speak. She is a lovely affectionate dog but this issue is spoiling our enjoyment of her. That and the chewing ( she got to my post this morning while I was upstairs) but thats another story. 

We can only keep trying.


----------



## Flo's Dad

The one has always been happy on the crate and you can often find her in there during the day, the other we always have to pick up and put in, but she quickly settles down. The blanket stops them seeing what's going on.

The best advise I had was not to humanise your dog. They do not think and they do not reason, but after course, we do. You can't treat them the same. 

What we and our dogs do, is routine. 

Here in lies your problem.

It is not important to your dog whether she toilets inside or outside, it's important to you but not her and she'll never understand that.
But she will understand routine. That's the root behind constantly taking them outside, it creates routine. In time she will wee more outside than inside because of the routine. She will slowly prefer to wee outside because that's the routine, just as ours get anxious at exactly the same time when we take them out, that's routine.

Keep at it, and create routine.


----------



## Cookie’s Mum

Flo's Dad said:


> The one has always been happy on the crate and you can often find her in there during the day, the other we always have to pick up and put in, but she quickly settles down. The blanket stops them seeing what's going on.
> 
> The best advise I had was not to humanise your dog. They do not think and they do not reason, but after course, we do. You can't treat them the same.
> 
> What we and our dogs do, is routine.
> 
> Here in lies your problem.
> 
> It is not important to your dog whether she toilets inside or outside, it's important to you but not her and she'll never understand that.
> But she will understand routine. That's the root behind constantly taking them outside, it creates routine. In time she will wee more outside than inside because of the routine. She will slowly prefer to wee outside because that's the routine, just as ours get anxious at exactly the same time when we take them out, that's routine.
> 
> Keep at it, and create routine.


Yes good point. I need to think more 'dog'. We were lulled into a false sense of security by our older dog who was easy to house train. I have noticed that she's worse at weekends when everyone is home all day so I will have to make sure the routine is kept up.


----------



## Natalie Smith

Help needed.

What's the best way to teach our puppy to ask to go toilet outside?

Our puppy doesn't have many accidents as we take her out alot and she likes to go outside but she doesn't ever ask to go.


----------



## JoanneF

doggo14 said:


> A crate is a great tool for toilet training a puppy. It keeps him confined when there is no supervision and most dogs learn quickly that if they make in their crate they will have to sit in it.


A crate is helpful as a tool to assist with toilet training but it is just that - a tool, not a substitute for training. If you leave a puppy in a crate until it has no choice but to toilet, it will have to do it because puppies have very small bladders and bowels and simply cannot hold. Also the time between a puppy realising it has to toilet, and being unable to stop himself, is almost zero. So it's far better to set him up for success by taking him out a lot, more than he needs, and aiming for every toilet to be outside than distressing him by forcing him to sit in his mess to "learn".


----------



## Sharon Linehan

Hi all
Just wondered if someone could give me some advice please.. I've got a nine month old shih tzu and she gets walks twice a day with access to the garden throughout the day to as I am always at home. She is really good at night and sleeps in the den, never having any accidents but no matter how much we walk her she never does her toileting out side and will wait until she comes back into the house Grrrr!
Along with the nipping and barking I'm starting to pull my hair out!


----------



## Cayley

Just deleted my rambling rant about training my puppy. Had an anxious new puppy Mum moment.... again.


----------



## ZodiacTide

Hi, 

Do you have any advice?

We have an almost 10 week old Lab pup who goes outside, will choose to go out side when the door is open & we look for signs when the door is shut.

Unlike our 8 month old, she doesn't go as soon as she's eaten, it's usually 2 maybe 3, possibly 4 hours later (number 2).

At night we take her out at regular 2 hour intervals and usually have to wake her, she sleeps heavier than our boy but she will mess, not cry for a while but is happy to sit in it. She's crated in a small crate, with a divider to make it smaller, she can turn around and lay down but that's it as she messes.

Our boy was scared of his own mess, he would avoid it like the plague but she is happy to be covered in it, resulting in her having multiple washes a night. 

Any advice? I'm stuck.


----------



## Cayley

ZodiacTide said:


> Hi,
> 
> Do you have any advice?
> 
> We have an almost 10 week old Lab pup who goes outside, will choose to go out side when the door is open & we look for signs when the door is shut.
> 
> Unlike our 8 month old, she doesn't go as soon as she's eaten, it's usually 2 maybe 3, possibly 4 hours later (number 2).
> 
> At night we take her out at regular 2 hour intervals and usually have to wake her, she sleeps heavier than our boy but she will mess, not cry for a while but is happy to sit in it. She's crated in a small crate, with a divider to make it smaller, she can turn around and lay down but that's it as she messes.
> 
> Our boy was scared of his own mess, he would avoid it like the plague but she is happy to be covered in it, resulting in her having multiple washes a night.
> 
> Any advice? I'm stuck.


I can only ask if you're leaving her water overnight and how soon before bed do you feed her?

I was told to take our pups water away an hour before bed and to feed her 4 hours before bedtime and nothing after that. After she has done her last wee and poo, then we would put her to bed.

(We lucked out that our pup was actually very good at holding her wee/poo and so I don't know if this is helpful in your case.)


----------



## ZodiacTide

Cayley said:


> I can only ask if you're leaving her water overnight and how soon before bed do you feed her?
> 
> I was told to take our pups water away an hour before bed and to feed her 4 hours before bedtime and nothing after that. After she has done her last wee and poo, then we would put her to bed.
> 
> (We lucked out that our pup was actually very good at holding her wee/poo and so I don't know if this is helpful in your case.)


Hi,

She get fed at about 5 in the evening, we got to bed at 10. She doesn't get any water for about an hour and a half before bed but still manages to do mess. She's been to poop and pee twice now before bed. Fingers crossed!


----------



## Cayley

Does anyone have any advice about toilet training a pup outside of the house? 

Our pup is trained in the kitchen (which is half carpet) but not in the lounge. Also, at other people’s houses/the pub, she has pooped on sofas, and peed on their carpet... 

She doesn’t like to go on concrete either...


----------



## JoanneF

Cayley said:


> Does anyone have any advice about toilet training a pup outside of the house?
> 
> Our pup is trained in the kitchen (which is half carpet) but not in the lounge. Also, at other people's houses/the pub, she has pooped on sofas, and peed on their carpet...
> 
> She doesn't like to go on concrete either...


It sounds like you have trained her well, but to toilet in the house.

You don't say how old she is but if she is young she physically won't be able to hold for any long periods. Toilet training happens when two things come together - the ABILITY to hold the toilet, along with the DESIRE to hold it in order to earn the reward for doing so.

Ideally you want her to not be in a position where she needs to toilet before you have her outdoors, so that every toilet is outside. So set her up to succeed by taking her out even more than she needs; for example every 45 minutes to an hour and always after sleeping, eating, playing. The time between a puppy realising they need to toilet, and being unable to hold that toilet, is zero. So your aim is to have her outside before she can't help herself. When she toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward her with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make her come to you for the treat so she is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. The idea is that she wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until she is outside - once she is physically able to control her toileting obviously. If she has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed she may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if she needs to toilet - the opposite of what you want. Just clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove any trace of smell that might attract her back to the spot. As she is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words she can associate with it (like 'do weewee' and 'busy busy') that later when she is reliably trained you can use these to tell her when you want her to toilet.

Indoors if you see her circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get her out fast.


----------



## Cayley

JoanneF said:


> It sounds like you have trained her well, but to toilet in the house.
> 
> You don't say how old she is but if she is young she physically won't be able to hold for any long periods. Toilet training happens when two things come together - the ABILITY to hold the toilet, along with the DESIRE to hold it in order to earn the reward for doing so.
> 
> Ideally you want her to not be in a position where she needs to toilet before you have her outdoors, so that every toilet is outside. So set her up to succeed by taking her out even more than she needs; for example every 45 minutes to an hour and always after sleeping, eating, playing. The time between a puppy realising they need to toilet, and being unable to hold that toilet, is zero. So your aim is to have her outside before she can't help herself. When she toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward her with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make her come to you for the treat so she is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. The idea is that she wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until she is outside - once she is physically able to control her toileting obviously. If she has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed she may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if she needs to toilet - the opposite of what you want. Just clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove any trace of smell that might attract her back to the spot. As she is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words she can associate with it (like 'do weewee' and 'busy busy') that later when she is reliably trained you can use these to tell her when you want her to toilet.
> 
> Indoors if you see her circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get her out fast.


Sorry, I think you misunderstood me. She goes to the door and asks to go out when we're in the kitchen. She sits quietly for a wee, but will become more adjitated and bark a little for a poo. She is 15 weeks at the moment. We have a baby gate seperating the kitchen from the lounge and so she doesn't get to go in often. We have to watch her for chewing and she's giddier in there. That room is easier to extend into. We plan on taking her in for an hour after each movement. I'm confident that will come in time, just like the kitchen did.

My problem is other people's homes, and indoor public spaces, like the pub. When and how do you train your dog to not to go in places that are not our home? Especially when they don't have grass outside.


----------



## Plutodoodle

Hi all

We got our 8 week old Labradoodle a week ago. He is adorable!
I've taken 2 weeks off work to settle him in and have completed dedicated my time to helping him with his toilet training. He goes outside when I take him out and I always give him a treat if he goes, but he seems to have got wise to this. Now he will sit by the door every 10 mins, go out and do a tiny wee for a treat. 
Also, he will randomly wee on the kitchen floor every 10 mins or so, always a tiny wee. I don't scold him, just clean it up and take him outside to teach him that is where wee goes.
I know he can hold it as he never wees in his crate and has slept through the night since day 1.
Also he never wees on the sofa. We often have playtime and cuddles on the sofa for 1-2 hours at a time and he's....so far....never had an accident. So why does he wee on the floor so often? Is he associating wees with treats too much?

Thanks x


----------



## Emandmillie

Hi folks. We have an 11 week old pup. She never poos in the house&hasnt had any accidents in her crate but she has in her playpen. She whines to be let out her playpen a lot but it's difficult to tell if she needs to toilet or if she just wants freedom. the times when she is out her pen she doesn't go to the door or bark to be let out, and on occasions she has walked past the backdoor&peed in the kitchen instead. I'm wondering is the playpen preventing her from learning to go to the door&tell us she wants out. Do I need to teach her a way to tell us she wants to go out to toilet? Or is this just normal puppy learning behaviour&should I give her more time to learn? any advice gratefully received!! Emma


----------



## Siskin

It's very rare that young puppies truly understand that they have to ask to be let out, many adult dogs don't do it either. You need to be proactive and take your pup out to the garden, not wait til she asks. Take her out upon waking, after a meal, after a play and at about hourly intervals. Go with her into the garden and wait until she performs. As she is going say a cue word like 'busy, busy' or 'go wees' or whatever word you want to use, but only when she is actually performing. Praise hugely, like its the best thing in the word when she's finished, go to her to praise don't call her to you. She will quickly learn that she needs to toilet outside, but you do need to keep taking her out regularly so that you set her up to succeed


----------



## Emandmillie

Siskin said:


> It's very rare that young puppies truly understand that they have to ask to be let out, many adult dogs don't do it either. You need to be proactive and take your pup out to the garden, not wait til she asks. Take her out upon waking, after a meal, after a play and at about hourly intervals. Go with her into the garden and wait until she performs. As she is going say a cue word like 'busy, busy' or 'go wees' or whatever word you want to use, but only when she is actually performing. Praise hugely, like its the best thing in the word when she's finished, go to her to praise don't call her to you. She will quickly learn that she needs to toilet outside, but you do need to keep taking her out regularly so that you set her up to succeed


Ah yeah thanks we've been doing that a lot so fortunately she hadnt had that many accidents as we are frequently taking her out. I just wasn't sure if the playpen was almost acting as a barrier to allowing her to tell us that she wants to be let out as she can't stand by the back door because she's in her pen&if she whines when she's in her pen, she often just wants to wander around the house, rather than go toilet. She did cry early the other morning when she was in her crate so I immediately came down&let her out so she does know how to tell us when she's desperate, but in the daytime she sometimes chooses to walk past the back door&wee on the floor in the house instead. I'm confident it'll be something I'm doing wrong so any pointers/advice would be great. Many thanks!! X


----------



## SarahandBuffy

Hello all, I need some help.
I have a 25 week old rescue pup called buffy. She is deaf.
I've been working on house training and other than the occasional accident she's pretty good. She has a couple of problems though. She doesn't communicate with you very well, I taught her to ring a bell or step on a plate (it rings) to go outside and she'll do that and go out sometimes but others she just wont do it and then we have accidents.

Last night was the final straw for my other half though.
Buffy has had to sleep with us the last couple of nights because our other dog is poorly having slipped a disc and no matter what training we try Buffy will not settle unless she is touching something living. 
She also has to constantly drink because she doesn't pant and last night she was desperate to drink. She drank a massive bowl full of water then ran out to the pond to drink from there.
Well I know you'll know what's coming now. She peed in the bed
My partner says she shouldn't pee where she sleeps. So he's annoyed and (I know he wouldn't because he loves her) said in anger that she needs to go. 

I really don't know what to do. She doesn't give off signs of needing to go and last night in bed she was asleep when she went. 

We were recommended to lift the water about 2 hours before we go to bed which is normally about 9pm but if she is desperate she'll find what ever water she can.

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## Siskin

I'm a bit puzzled by her need to drink lots of water because she doesn't pant, is this a medical issue and vet advice, I've not heard of this condition before?
Weeing in the bed without her realising it and a desparate need to drink I would have thought meant a UTI, so a visit to the vet with a wee sample might be a good idea just to check her waterworks are ok.
She is too young to reliably indicate her need to go outside to toilet, many adult dogs dont 'tell' their owners this, so expecting a puppy to do this is a bit much I think. Best practice would be to take her out at regular intervals rather then only when she rings the bell or whatever. Young puppies don't have much time Inbetween realising they need to go and actually going, so it would be better all round if you take her out to toilet rather then wait for her to indicate a need.


----------



## SarahandBuffy

That has all been checked out and ruled out. I was told some dogs just do not pant and her way of coping with it is to drink lots. She's done it since we've had her.

I do take her out every hour anyway but she'll ring a bell when she wants to go out in between those times. 9 times out of 10 it's all good. Like I said she's almost there.

The main problem is the night time. As she just always needs to drink obviously she always needs to pee and again most nights it's fine, she'll have a drink at 9 ish and settle down for the night and we'll wake her ever hour before we go to bed and there's normally no accidents 

But then you get a night like last night where she wouldn't settle and desperately searched for water. So much so she drank from the pond and other places.

The thing is she's never shown any sign of not knowing she's going to pee until last night where she was asleep on her back (and on me) and peed all over us waking both of us up.


----------



## pa_wallace

I am looking after a 14-month female whippet for an extended period of time and having some problems with her peeing in the house. I wonder if anyone can help.

She is trained to go for a pee in the garden and knows she will get a treat if she does. However, she also seems to think we approve of her peeing in the house. She will stare at us and squat and pee on rug and then run up to us wagging her tail (obviously we do not give her a fuss or reward her after she has gone).

She pees quite a lot during the day but is able to hold it in during the night, so I don't think it is a bladder control issue. It seems to be that she thinks we like her peeing inside and out. Any advice would be gratefully received. 

To be clear, she was trained before we received her by someone else so I am not sure how she was trained. She has been with us for a month and is very relaxed and happy.


----------



## Siskin

It does rather sound as if she hasn’t been totally toilet trained as she doesn’t appear to have got the concept of only peeing when outside. The fact that she looks for a treat proves the point as she thinks she will get a treat just for peeing not for peeing in the right place.
I don’t know how long you will be looking after her, but I suggest you go right back to basics and take her outside at regular intervals, don’t wait for her to ask or stand at a door, but maybe take her out hourly to start with. Perhaps keep her on the lead initially and take her to a suitable spot and wait for her to go. If after a while she doesn’t go, take her in and try again shortly afterwards. When she is in the state of peeing, say a cue word several times like ‘busy, busy’ or ‘go wees’ or whatever suits you to say. When she has finished reward her with fuss and a treat, don’t call her to you, but go to her so she knows why she is being treated. Eventually she will realise that she is being rewarded for peeing outside and getting her to know the cue word for doing a pee then you can take her out and tell her to pee whenever necessary. Peeing on command takes time so don’t expect results straight away.


----------



## pa_wallace

Thank you, that is very helpful concrete advice. We will give it ago and see how it goes.


----------



## Ian246

Alena has dumped this exact link on another post with no explanation. 

I would advise everyone NOT to click on this link until Alena provides a bit more detail. It looks suspicious to me.


----------



## SusieRainbow

Spam removed.


----------



## Ian246

“Just found out there is an online course for train dogs. Belonged to people who are they need to train dogs and teach good behaviors. You mihgt find your answer from here. Send me msg I will give you link if you want.”

Looks like potential spam to me.


----------



## SusieRainbow

Ian246 said:


> "Just found out there is an online course for train dogs. Belonged to people who are they need to train dogs and teach good behaviors. You mihgt find your answer from here. Send me msg I will give you link if you want."
> 
> Looks like potential spam to me.


New members can't post links until they've made 25+ posts. But I agree.


----------



## Ian246

SusieRainbow said:


> New members can't post links until they've made 25+ posts. But I agree.


Oh, I see. That explains what happened to me! Very wise, anyway.


----------



## bestdogtrainingebooks.com

Thank you for your Advice and wish you all Happy New Year


----------



## Ian246

bestdogtrainingebooks.com said:


> Thank you for your Advice and wish you all Happy New Year


Interesting name!


----------



## tommy0144

Hi everyone,

We are having trouble house training our dog. She is a bichon x Yorkie and we adopted her at the end of November last year when she was 7 months old. We have since found out we are her 4th owners already!!! 
We are struggling because she will go to the back door and we will let her out (this can be 5 or 6 times) and then she will come back in and do it in the house. 
Any help will be massively appreciated as we don’t know what to do for the best!!


----------



## kimthecat

Welcome to PF,
Whats your dogs a name ? 
Will your dog toilet when she's on a walk? 
Do you go outside in the garden with her ?


----------



## Ian246

deleted


----------



## tommy0144

kimthecat said:


> Welcome to PF,
> Whats your dogs a name ?
> Will your dog toilet when she's on a walk?
> Do you go outside in the garden with her ?


Thank you, her name is Nancy.
Yes she will toilet when we're out walking. No we don't go outside with her most of the time.


----------



## JoanneF

tommy0144 said:


> Thank you, her name is Nancy.
> Yes she will toilet when we're out walking. No we don't go outside with her most of the time.


Toilet training happens when two things come together - the ABILITY to hold the toilet, along with the DESIRE to hold it in order to earn the reward for doing so.

Ideally you want her to not be in a position where she needs to toilet before you have her outdoors, so that every toilet is outside - as far as possible, there will be accidents! So set her up to succeed by taking her out even more than she needs; for example every hour and always after sleeping, eating, playing. When she toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward her with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make her come to you for the treat so she is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. That means you dont just let her out, you take her and wait with her. The idea is that she wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until she is outside. If she has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed she may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if she needs to toilet - the opposite of what you want. Dogs cant make the distinction between you being annoyed at them toileting, as opposed to toileting indoors. Take a rolled up newspaper and hit yourself over the head for not having taken her outside in time. Not when she is there though in case you scare her. Then clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove any trace of smell that might attract her back to the spot. As she is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words she can associate with it (like 'do weewee' and 'busy busy') that later when she is reliably trained you can use these to tell her when you want her to toilet.

Indoors if you see her circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get her out fast.


----------



## kimthecat

tommy0144 said:


> Thank you, her name is Nancy.
> Yes she will toilet when we're out walking. No we don't go outside with her most of the time.


Thats good Nancy will toilet outside.
She may have got into the habit of toileting indoors rather than the garden and thinks its the right place to go . 
Sometimes things like the bad weather will put dogs off and they go outside and then rush back in without going or they get distracted. 
If you go outside or watch from the back door at least you will know if she's been to the toilet. 
What you can do is teach her to Do a wee .
This worked very well with my chi.
When out on walks , when she is actually in the process of weeing , full stream , say do a wee , good girl . When she has finished you can give her a treat.
Repeat this a lot until you are sure she has made the connection between your instruction Do a wee and her weeing.

You can then ask her to do a wee in your garden and hopefully she will go.


----------



## Dasha

very good lesson


----------



## Anthony12

Can anyone give advice on how to teach a dog not to move far from home. I often let go of my jack russell for a walk, but I just can’t train him not to go far from home. Once I even had to look for him. My friends advised me a wireless fance, but I'm not sure if it works. Has anyone tried using such a device?


----------



## SusieRainbow

Anthony12 said:


> Can anyone give advice on how to teach a dog not to move far from home. I often let go of my jack russell for a walk, but I just can't train him not to go far from home. Once I even had to look for him. My friends advised me a wireless fance, but I'm not sure if it works. Has anyone tried using such a device?


Post moved toTraining and behaviour.https://www.petforums.co.uk/threads/stopping-a-dog-from-roaming.513646/#post-1065414641


----------



## Vilde

Hey there!

A few weeks ago a came across a fun and teaching game you can do with your dog to make unwanted behavior disappear. I have tried this for a while now and it is incredible how fast it works. I wish I had found this simple game faster. If you are interested for more info, please contact me


----------



## SusieRainbow

Vilde said:


> Hey there!
> 
> A few weeks ago a came across a fun and teaching game you can do with your dog to make unwanted behavior disappear. I have tried this for a while now and it is incredible how fast it works. I wish I had found this simple game faster. If you are interested for more info, please contact me


Can you not share it with us here ? 
That's what forums are about, sharing ideas and information, not promoting business.


----------



## Vilde

Sure, its a free ebook, if you want to have a look. I hope it is allowed to share it here in the forum


----------



## Kate Warren

In hunting for advice for my pooch I may actually have just signed up for the second time. This site looks familiar.

We re-homed our beagle Lucy while living in the UK. We got her in 2010 and moved her with us back to the States in 2015. She is 11 now and all has been well toilet-wise until this July 3rd. As you may know, we Americans tend to go way overboard on the fireworks for Independence Day, July 4th. This year the neighborhood has celebrated from the 3rd through the 7th with more fireworks because we are no longer in a drought here. So everyone is taking advantage of that to the distress of the dogs! Lucy is less tolerant of the noise than when she was younger. To top it off, the fireworks did battle with a very impressive thunderstorm.

Lucy has also had the stress of recently going through radiation therapy on a front paw for cancer. I released her from the e-collar a couple of days ago and she is leaving her foot alone. BTW, in the States and e-collar is the plastic cone that keeps her from licking her foot. I see on another thread that may mean something else in the UK. "E" stands for Elizabethan. I guess it's better than cone of shame.

Another wrinkle in the stress level is in March we brought home my late mother-in-law's long hair female Chihuahua, also an older dog. That was about the time Lucy started her therapy. The two get along but are not buddies.

On the 3rd, the first night of fireworks, Lucy began leaving wet spots on her bed or under the desk where she hid from the fireworks and thunder. I figured she lost some control from fear. Then it became full fledged puddles on the carpet, and one time she squatted right in front of my elderly mom who lives with us. I read the introductory information to this thread, which was very informative. I did try to understand Lucy's stress and not scold her. But I am nearing the end of my rope. Any further suggestions?


----------



## Guest

Kate Warren said:


> In hunting for advice for my pooch I may actually have just signed up for the second time. This site looks familiar.
> 
> We re-homed our beagle Lucy while living in the UK. We got her in 2010 and moved her with us back to the States in 2015. She is 11 now and all has been well toilet-wise until this July 3rd. As you may know, we Americans tend to go way overboard on the fireworks for Independence Day, July 4th. This year the neighborhood has celebrated from the 3rd through the 7th with more fireworks because we are no longer in a drought here. So everyone is taking advantage of that to the distress of the dogs! Lucy is less tolerant of the noise than when she was younger. To top it off, the fireworks did battle with a very impressive thunderstorm.
> 
> Lucy has also had the stress of recently going through radiation therapy on a front paw for cancer. I released her from the e-collar a couple of days ago and she is leaving her foot alone.
> 
> Another wrinkle in the stress level is in March we brought home my late mother-in-law's long hair female Chihuahua, also an older dog. That was about the time Lucy started her therapy. The two get along but are not buddies.
> 
> On the 3rd, the first night of fireworks, Lucy began leaving wet spots on her bed or under the desk where she hid from the fireworks and thunder. I figured she lost some control from fear. Then it became full fledged puddles on the carpet, and one time she squatted right in front of my elderly mom who lives with us. I read the introductory information to this thread, which was very informative. I did try to understand Lucy's stress and not scold her. But I am nearing the end of my rope. Any further suggestions?


Sorry Lucy is finding life a bit tough at the moment! I would definitely pop her into the vet for a check up, especially given her age. Hopefully it's just the stress of recent events and as things settle down she will gain back her control. In the meantime make sure you're taking her out frequently so she doesn't get caught short, praise and/or treat her for toileting outside, and keep trying to be patient - I know it must be frustrating. But definitely get her along to the vet sooner rather than later.


----------



## Kate Warren

McKenzie said:


> Sorry Lucy is finding life a bit tough at the moment! I would definitely pop her into the vet for a check up, especially given her age. Hopefully it's just the stress of recent events and as things settle down she will gain back her control. In the meantime make sure you're taking her out frequently so she doesn't get caught short, praise and/or treat her for toileting outside, and keep trying to be patient - I know it must be frustrating. But definitely get her along to the vet sooner rather than later.


Thank you. I will call the vet in the morning.


----------



## Kate Warren

It may be the mystery is solved though I can’t get Lucy an appointment for several days. Just around noon I spotted some suspicious drips on the tile floor and followed them to her big round dog bed where there was a puddle. But this clearly showed that she was desperate to get to something absorbent. Thanks to the fabric of the cover of the bed it showed the puddle was irregular and there were lots of drips like Lucy was in a hurry and losing control. The vet said it sounds like she is certainly leaking, poor girl. No available times for a few days though. Thanks for the advice and kind thoughts.


----------



## Engel98

Ugh. Pebbles is 2 and still messing in the house. I've had her 9 months and it's not getting any better. Water gets picked up 3 hours before bed. They get put out every 2 hours in the evening and are left 7-8 hours over night. I make sure she goes before bringing her back inside. Yet you'll still find mess in the kitchen  she's the only one out of my lot that does it and it's really frustrating. Any tips?


----------



## Touikii moha

I had my year old Max at somewhere between 5–6 weeks, he should have stayed for longer, by the owners of his dam could not cope & begged me to take him earlier. One of the reasons I chose him was because he seemed more alert than the other puppies, & it is possible that had some baring on how easy it was to potty train him.

The golden rule is never EVER tell him off, shout at him, shreak or smack him for having an accident. Bite your tongue, take a deep breath, count to 3, NO telling him off.

Puppies have no control over their bladders for (I think) up to 3 months. Any harsh words or action on your part will have him think he has done something wrong, he will NOT yet associate you telling him off with weeing or pooping, all you will do in the meantime is start the very first steps of teaching him how to fear people, if you continue to castigate him for ‘mistakes’ indoors, he will not learn that he is doing his business in the wrong place, but will think that the act of peeing or pooping makes you angry, so he will/or may then start doing his business in hidden places in the hope he does not anger you. You will also now have a pup who has learned to fear humans.

(Remember, any puppy who is castigated has learned that the first rule of human ownership is linked to fear. Its mother would not scream, shout or hit it, so if you can cross this point in your pups life without ever having made him afraid you, then those your pup comes into contact with in the future will hopefully know a calm & even tempered dog).

It is all well & good saying “take him outside” but very young pups have to go throughout the day & night, we can’t be expected to spend our entire day ‘waiting’ for him to go potty, so invest in puppy training pads, they are made of wafer thin compressed tissue stuck to a thin plastic backing, they are cheap, are worth their weight in gold & will save you both stress & wasted time in clearing up.

You can buy these pads in assorted sizes, & rather than throw the entire larger pads out after a single use, I used to cut the wet patch out of mine, then place it on top of another, I have no idea how many pads this saved me, but it was beyond count, I also bought a few of the largest you can buy, then laid other smaller ones on top, simply replacing the smaller ones when needed.

Instinctively pups do not want to wee or mess their beds, & this is where you start, but cover your carpets or rugs in areas where he wanders with training pads & simply treat early accidents around the house as nothing more than an inconvenience.

I had a plastic bed for Max when a very small pup & with his bedding it was a lovely comfy place for him (hint, he was happier to have something that smelled of me when he slept, so cut up an old t-shirt for him & literally wrapped him up in it), I placed his bed on top of 3 or 4 overlapping pads leaving a wide margin around the bed, & never once did he dirty his bed. He would stumble out of his bed, & wee on the pads, as he got older I saw he preferred a certain spot, so as I enlarged his pen, (his bed was in my bedroom with a tiled floor for the first few months) I would leave just the one pad, he knew by now that the soft pad under his feet was where he peed, I don’t ever remember him pooping at night, then one night it all stopped, & he never again used the pads at night 

During the day when he was awake I was usually there for him when he needed to go & was able, as a rule to scoop him up just before he did anything, always taking him to one spot on the patio with a training pad, & always without fail telling what a good boy he was, don’t over do the “good boying” it is exhausting. Some pups will instinctively stop peeing in mid flow if you say a gentle but firm “no” when scooping him up, you can then place him on his pad or outside in your chosen spot..

I then slowly moved the pads out of the kitchen & onto the patio, but during this time also taking him out to a spot designated for him to do his business. There came a day when he was waiting at the door, clearly wanting to go outside & Voila, he peed/pooped where I had been taking him previously, my heart was bursting with pride for him, & gave him a favourite treat.

He never again used a pad or made a mistake in the house.

A funny little story, during the day if I had to go out, I would put him in his enclosed bed in my bedroom, (like a crate but with no roof), he hated being left alone. One afternoon I was going out, placed him in his bed & as I bent to stroke him, he backed away from me & crouched down, I knew in a split second exactly what he planned to do, & I said, “Don’t you dare……….”, & with that he catapulted himself from a standstill over the 18″ high walls. He was only around 3 months old & I was seriously impressed, it was the hardest thing not to tell him what a clever boy he was. From that day on he was allowed to have his bed on the patio, I don’t think he has ever had a mistake .


----------



## Touikii moha

I had my year old Max at somewhere between 5–6 weeks, he should have stayed for longer, by the owners of his dam could not cope & begged me to take him earlier. One of the reasons I chose him was because he seemed more alert than the other puppies, & it is possible that had some baring on how easy it was to potty train him.

The golden rule is never EVER tell him off, shout at him, shreak or smack him for having an accident. Bite your tongue, take a deep breath, count to 3, NO telling him off.

Puppies have no control over their bladders for (I think) up to 3 months. Any harsh words or action on your part will have him think he has done something wrong, he will NOT yet associate you telling him off with weeing or pooping, all you will do in the meantime is start the very first steps of teaching him how to fear people, if you continue to castigate him for ‘mistakes’ indoors, he will not learn that he is doing his business in the wrong place, but will think that the act of peeing or pooping makes you angry, so he will/or may then start doing his business in hidden places in the hope he does not anger you. You will also now have a pup who has learned to fear humans.

(Remember, any puppy who is castigated has learned that the first rule of human ownership is linked to fear. Its mother would not scream, shout or hit it, so if you can cross this point in your pups life without ever having made him afraid you, then those your pup comes into contact with in the future will hopefully know a calm & even tempered dog).

It is all well & good saying “take him outside” but very young pups have to go throughout the day & night, we can’t be expected to spend our entire day ‘waiting’ for him to go potty, so invest in puppy training pads, they are made of wafer thin compressed tissue stuck to a thin plastic backing, they are cheap, are worth their weight in gold & will save you both stress & wasted time in clearing up.

You can buy these pads in assorted sizes, & rather than throw the entire larger pads out after a single use, I used to cut the wet patch out of mine, then place it on top of another, I have no idea how many pads this saved me, but it was beyond count, I also bought a few of the largest you can buy, then laid other smaller ones on top, simply replacing the smaller ones when needed.

Instinctively pups do not want to wee or mess their beds, & this is where you start, but cover your carpets or rugs in areas where he wanders with training pads & simply treat early accidents around the house as nothing more than an inconvenience.

I had a plastic bed for Max when a very small pup & with his bedding it was a lovely comfy place for him (hint, he was happier to have something that smelled of me when he slept, so cut up an old t-shirt for him & literally wrapped him up in it), I placed his bed on top of 3 or 4 overlapping pads leaving a wide margin around the bed, & never once did he dirty his bed. He would stumble out of his bed, & wee on the pads, as he got older I saw he preferred a certain spot, so as I enlarged his pen, (his bed was in my bedroom with a tiled floor for the first few months) I would leave just the one pad, he knew by now that the soft pad under his feet was where he peed, I don’t ever remember him pooping at night, then one night it all stopped, & he never again used the pads at night 

During the day when he was awake I was usually there for him when he needed to go & was able, as a rule to scoop him up just before he did anything, always taking him to one spot on the patio with a training pad, & always without fail telling what a good boy he was, don’t over do the “good boying” it is exhausting. Some pups will instinctively stop peeing in mid flow if you say a gentle but firm “no” when scooping him up, you can then place him on his pad or outside in your chosen spot..

I then slowly moved the pads out of the kitchen & onto the patio, but during this time also taking him out to a spot designated for him to do his business. There came a day when he was waiting at the door, clearly wanting to go outside & Voila, he peed/pooped where I had been taking him previously, my heart was bursting with pride for him, & gave him a favourite treat.

He never again used a pad or made a mistake in the house.

A funny little story, during the day if I had to go out, I would put him in his enclosed bed in my bedroom, (like a crate but with no roof), he hated being left alone. One afternoon I was going out, placed him in his bed & as I bent to stroke him, he backed away from me & crouched down, I knew in a split second exactly what he planned to do, & I said, “Don’t you dare……….”, & with that he catapulted himself from a standstill over the 18″ high walls. He was only around 3 months old & I was seriously impressed, it was the hardest thing not to tell him what a clever boy he was. From that day on he was allowed to have his bed on the patio, I don’t think he has ever had a mistake .


----------



## Kiki343

Hi, I could really use some advice.
Yesterday we got a new foster puppy, he is 4.5 months old. We have somewhat of an odd situation because it seems as if his last owner couldn’t take the time to teach the puppy to do his buisnes outside. Most of the time it’s on a puppy pad but there have been some accidents. The day we got his he was really hyperactive and wouldn’t calm down, but we resolved that with many walks. The problem is not his accident but the fact that he pee outside, as if he isn’t supposed to. He pees every time we come home from a walk, and ny tge time I take him outside he doesn’t need to pee anymore. I’ve tried staying outside until he pees, but after walking for about two hours, (he hadn’t peed in five hours) he still wouldn’t go but after coming inside he peed imidiately. This afternoon he pooped outside because we went outside right after he ate and stayed until he pooped, but it doesn’t seem to work with peeing. (If you were wondering we go for walks after his naps, after playtime, after his meals, and ofcourse immediately in the morning and right before we go to sleep. We also heavily rewarded him after he pooped outside)
I know it’s going to take a long time for him to readjust nut I was just wondering if anyone had any tips or advice. 
Thanks


----------



## JoanneF

Some people find taking a used pad outside helps - and it used to be the practice, when people used newspapers, to gradually move it closer and closer to the door, then just outside.


----------



## lullabydream

Kiki343 said:


> Hi, I could really use some advice.
> Yesterday we got a new foster puppy, he is 4.5 months old. We have somewhat of an odd situation because it seems as if his last owner couldn't take the time to teach the puppy to do his buisnes outside. Most of the time it's on a puppy pad but there have been some accidents. The day we got his he was really hyperactive and wouldn't calm down, but we resolved that with many walks. The problem is not his accident but the fact that he pee outside, as if he isn't supposed to. He pees every time we come home from a walk, and ny tge time I take him outside he doesn't need to pee anymore. I've tried staying outside until he pees, but after walking for about two hours, (he hadn't peed in five hours) he still wouldn't go but after coming inside he peed imidiately. This afternoon he pooped outside because we went outside right after he ate and stayed until he pooped, but it doesn't seem to work with peeing. (If you were wondering we go for walks after his naps, after playtime, after his meals, and ofcourse immediately in the morning and right before we go to sleep. We also heavily rewarded him after he pooped outside)
> I know it's going to take a long time for him to readjust nut I was just wondering if anyone had any tips or advice.
> Thanks


Please don't walk a 4.5 month old puppy for 2 hours! That's really not good. Puppies need a lot of sleep like babies and toddlers you will get an over tired puppy with over tired behaviour.


----------



## Milo’s_Mum

Thanks for the advice. 

4 days ago we adopted a 6 month old puppy. He can go through the night without a wee but during the day needs to go every hour. He pretty much lived outside before we got him so could pee anywhere.

How can we get him to ‘go’ less?


----------



## Barry Mcmillan

Hi all I need help housebreaking our 5 month old jack chi , can anyone help


----------



## JoanneF

Barry Mcmillan said:


> Hi all I need help housebreaking our 5 month old jack chi , can anyone help


Toilet training happens when two things come together - the ABILITY to hold the toilet, along with the DESIRE to hold it in order to earn the reward for doing so.

Ideally you want him to not be in a position where he needs to toilet before you have him outdoors, so that every toilet is outside - as far as possible, there will be accidents! So set him up to succeed by taking him out even more than he needs; for example every 45 minutes to an hour and always after sleeping, eating, playing.

The time between a puppy realising they need to toilet, and being unable to hold that toilet is short. So your aim is to have him outside before he can't help himself. When he toilets outdoors make a huge fuss (never mind the neighbours, act like outdoor toileting is the best thing you have ever seen) and reward him with a high value treat. Do that immediately, don't make him come to you for the treat so he is clear that it's for toileting and not for coming to you. The idea is that he eventually wants to earn the treat enough to hold the toilet until he is outside.

As he is actually performing the toilet you can introduce words he can associate with it (like 'do weewee' and 'busy busy') that later when he is reliably trained you can use these to tell him when you want him to toilet.

If you take him out and he doesn't toilet after five minutes, bring him in but don't take your eyes off him. Any hint of a toilet inside, scoop him up and get him out fast. If he doesn't try to toilet indoors (great!) take him out a second time and repeat until you do get outside toilets. You need the outside toilet to happen SO that you can reward SO that he learns.

If he has an accident inside don't react at all. If you get annoyed he may learn to fear your reaction and avoid you if he needs to toilet (by going off and toileting out of sight) - the opposite of what you want. Dogs cant make the distinction between you being annoyed at him TOILETING, as opposed to toileting INDOORS. Take a rolled up newspaper and hit yourself over the head for not having taken him outside in time. Not when he is there though in case you scare him. Then clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner to remove any trace of smell that might attract him back to the spot.

Indoors if you see him circling or scratching the floor, that can sometimes precede toileting so get him out fast.

Overnight he may not be able to control his toilet as his little bladder and bowel are not strong enough to hold all night so set your alarm to take him out at least once if not twice during the night.


----------



## Jojolegs

Help! I have a 10 week old yorkie. She is the naughtiest pup ever but I love her. We have put puppy pads around and she goes to them immediately to do a wee and I praise her but she refused to poop on a pad. She will go absolutely anywhere she can find except on the pads. 
Advice pls.


----------



## az789

Hi looking for some slightly specific help, maybe similar to @Milo's mum situation, in that my puppy is fundamentally puppy trained except for a particular situation.

I have a 10 month old golden lab (had from pup). She is fully fully house trained at home but issue is at work. So I take her to work with me, which is a small warehouse with office unit inside. Just me in the office. She wont urinate in the office but the problem is in the warehouse.

She often urinates in the warehouse. I will take her out to a bit of grass every so often and will always praise and give her treats if she goes outside then but obviously with work cant always keep an exact schedule. For a period I got her going consistently at 10.30/12ish (when she has a lunch break walk) and 2ish but recently she has got herself off the schedule for some reason. The trouble I guess is she sees the warehouse as "outside" where she can go wherever. She can obviously hold herself for longer periods (always goes all night and if she is confined to the office she wont urinate there. The other challenge is that she doesn't express/show any of the signs of needing to go that she does when at home. At home she will sit by the back door and then whine a little and or make us aware she wants to go. I don't/cant always keep her in the office. (I mean I probably could but she likes exploring the warehouse and the inconvenience of always keeping the door shut is worse than the occasionally having to mop up her mess)

It isn't the biggest problem in the world as the warehouse is concrete floor and just mop it up but would be appreciative of advice.

Late addendum, obviously I don't punish her etc when she goes in the warehouse and also she used to do same with solid excrement but has not done that in a significant time.

Appreciate help in advance.


----------



## JoanneF

az789 said:


> The trouble I guess is she sees the warehouse as "outside"


Yes, that is exactly it. If you don't want this to be an ongoing problem (like, forever) I'd supervise her in the warehouse and take her right outside to toilet.


----------



## az789

JoanneF said:


> Yes, that is exactly it. If you don't want this to be an ongoing problem (like, forever) I'd supervise her in the warehouse and take her right outside to toilet.


Cheers but I would like if possible to be able to leave her "unsupervised" in the warehouse if possible. We are not talking a big warehouse here, the total floor footprint is no bigger than a large domestic house and 95% of the time nothing is happening in it (there are no other workers/machinery etc). Sometimes it is convenient to leave the door to the office open - temperature regulation in the summer etc.

Like I said it is not a massive problem but would be nice to get her to not urinate in the warehouse when she is fundamentally fully toilet trained in all other scenarios.


----------



## JoanneF

Sorry, what I meant was supervise her *for now* so that you prevent any accidents, until she is so accustomed to not toileting there that it doesn't occur to her to do it. So that means for the next few weeks/months, taking her right outside and rewarding immediately when she toilets there, and ushering her right out if she looks like she is thinking about toileting.


----------



## Carebear020510

Dougal said:


> Dougal is 5 months old next week and accidents are very rare now (touch wood!). He wasn't crate trained and living in a flat made things a bit tricky, but I just took him out as much as possible and - if I caught him in the act - I did tell him off.
> 
> He used to sleep in the kitchen, and would pee overnight on a puppy pad - now he sleeps in my bedroom he goes through the night - or makes it clear he needs to go out.
> 
> It's not just he knows he's supposed to go outside (I think!) - he's grown a lot in the last month and seems to have much better control now. Peeing on the carpet the moment he stops playing hasn't happened for a while


Hi I was wondering if u may be able to help. I have a new puppy 13 wks old. He has had last jab and as off Wednesday we can start taking him out. I tried the crate first few nights but neither copper (my puppy) or myself got on with it. I also live in a flat so the kitchen is coppers eating and sleeping place. While in the kitchen copper seems to mostly go on the pad but when I let him out to play or sit with me and my daughter he avoids the kitchen. I don't know if I'm being silly here but it seems as though he refuses to go in during the day unless we take him and I'm getting the feeling he thinks he will be locked in if he goes in. I know it's early days but as u have been though the same in a flat ur advice would be so much appreciated. I cannot wait till Wednesday to start taking him out.


----------



## Byzero

Hi everyone,

I wonder if you can help. We are attempting to house and crate train our 11 week old Boston Terrier, Lister. We’ve had him a week and a half. He has come from a reputable breeder and was previously news paper trained.

We’ve been following all the advice, full day time supervision, outside for toilet breaks, “go poo” “go pee” commands at the right time, treat at the right time. Toilet training during the day is going well. He seeks and eliminates in the right spot 95% of the time and we catch and take him outside the rest. Crate at night.

At night we have a problem. He will poo in his bed with minimal notice. Not enough for us to wake and get him out of the crate. We’re scheduling meals strictly, servings at 8:00, 12:00, 18:00 finishing all food by 7pm. Same food as the breeder used. He goes down for the night at 11 with relative ease now. We wake up to take him outside multiple times in the night based on when he soiled the previous nights. Last night our plan was 12;30, 01:30, 03:30 and 06:30. However, the time he soils keeps changing! Tonight he pooed the bed at 3am when our scheduled break was at 3:30. Last night a similar story with different times. We clean the bedding in the washing machine with bio detergent and swap the bed out for a spare immediately. Then we clean the area with enzymatic cleaner. We obviously clean Lister best we can at that point too. We do not punish, just take him outside to get cleaned up.

Ive tried making the crate smaller but no luck - the crate would be unreasonably small with not enough room for him to stretch out. He’d have to lay in the poo as it is with its current size. Ive tried removing the bedding but that just makes him look miserable and doesnt stop the soiling.

We’ve seen the vet about loose stools and the soiling but he just gave us some promax to try. Too early to tell if thats helping I guess. Clean bill of health other than that.

Crate training appears to be going ok apart from this issue. Lister is settling down. He doesnt whine as much as he did (unless he needs letting out) and is taking to his crate. He seeks it at times to have naps during the day. He seems to be starting to like the crate.

We were under the impression that the crate was meant to stop exactly this issue. Whats going on? Any advice would be much appreciated.


----------



## Engel98

Byzero said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I wonder if you can help. We are attempting to house and crate train our 11 week old Boston Terrier, Lister. We've had him a week and a half. He has come from a reputable breeder and was previously news paper trained.
> 
> We've been following all the advice, full day time supervision, outside for toilet breaks, "go poo" "go pee" commands at the right time, treat at the right time. Toilet training during the day is going well. He seeks and eliminates in the right spot 95% of the time and we catch and take him outside the rest. Crate at night.
> 
> At night we have a problem. He will poo in his bed with minimal notice. Not enough for us to wake and get him out of the crate. We're scheduling meals strictly, servings at 8:00, 12:00, 18:00 finishing all food by 7pm. Same food as the breeder used. He goes down for the night at 11 with relative ease now. We wake up to take him outside multiple times in the night based on when he soiled the previous nights. Last night our plan was 12;30, 01:30, 03:30 and 06:30. However, the time he soils keeps changing! Tonight he pooed the bed at 3am when our scheduled break was at 3:30. Last night a similar story with different times. We clean the bedding in the washing machine with bio detergent and swap the bed out for a spare immediately. Then we clean the area with enzymatic cleaner. We obviously clean Lister best we can at that point too. We do not punish, just take him outside to get cleaned up.
> 
> Ive tried making the crate smaller but no luck - the crate would be unreasonably small with not enough room for him to stretch out. He'd have to lay in the poo as it is with its current size. Ive tried removing the bedding but that just makes him look miserable and doesnt stop the soiling.
> 
> We've seen the vet about loose stools and the soiling but he just gave us some promax to try. Too early to tell if thats helping I guess. Clean bill of health other than that.
> 
> Crate training appears to be going ok apart from this issue. Lister is settling down. He doesnt whine as much as he did (unless he needs letting out) and is taking to his crate. He seeks it at times to have naps during the day. He seems to be starting to like the crate.
> 
> We were under the impression that the crate was meant to stop exactly this issue. Whats going on? Any advice would be much appreciated.


Consistency is key. Honestly you haven't had him long and he's not that old, so I wouldn't worry. Keep doing what you are doing he'll get there in the end 

With my dog Pebbles, we had to put her out every 30mins, then increased to 45 mins, then an hour, then in 30min increments from there on.

Patience is key


----------



## Byzero

After several visits to the vet, it turns out the little guy had giardia and coccidia. He simply couldn't hold it in. He's been on a course of several medicines and is doing much better now. We're down to two trips outside a night with no accidents in several days. Progress!


----------



## Bracken&co

Our pup is 7 months old now.
I know I am gonna jinx myself by saying it but I think we are finally seeing signs he understands that he is supposed to go toilet outside. He's seeming to let us know when he wants to go out. The only accident in the last few weeks is when my OH was fannying about in the morning before letting him out and he pee'd in front of the door.

The problem now is he seems to be asking to go out more regularly than I would expect him to need to at 7 months old. We don't seem to have taught him to hold his bladder. How many times should a 7-month-old need to go?


----------



## Burrowzig

Bracken&co said:


> Our pup is 7 months old now.
> I know I am gonna jinx myself by saying it but I think we are finally seeing signs he understands that he is supposed to go toilet outside. He's seeming to let us know when he wants to go out. The only accident in the last few weeks is when my OH was fannying about in the morning before letting him out and he pee'd in front of the door.
> 
> The problem now is he seems to be asking to go out more regularly than I would expect him to need to at 7 months old. We don't seem to have taught him to hold his bladder. How many times should a 7-month-old need to go?


You can find that increased urination coincides with growth spurts. 
My 5 month old pees about 8 times a day, but I take her out as soon as she becomes restless and tell her to go, or if I have to get up for some other reason. She's the easiest to house train pup of all I've had.


----------



## Abbey Worrall

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could help me I have 3 dogs: an 8-month cocker spaniel, 1 and a half-year-old French bulldog and a 4-year-old Staffordshire bullterrier

They are all fine in going to the toilet during the day in the garden however, my mom keeps getting up to "mess" in the morning either wee or poo or both left in the kitchen by one of the dogs.

It is unlikely to be the 4 year old because he was crate trained and is older, it seems more likely to be one of the younger dogs, neither were crate trained.

However, I'm not sure how to solve the problem as we're not sure which dog is leaving the mess and whether to crate train one of them now as it would distress them since they all sleep together

I would really appreciate any tips anyone could give me, thank you


----------



## The Kennel Co.

Well this is the best advice for dog training i must say. i do follow so tips that are mentioned in the post. But also there are few things that is left behind every time. Thank you for giving this knowledge. I will surely apply this on my daily life now.


----------



## Chloe Cooper

New here, so apols if this is wrong place to put this, our 10 week old Cockapoo is wavering in his potty training. He started off really strong and we had a couple of weeks with no accidents but recently, he's been peeing in the house, but only when we're around. We work from home so we leave him in his room while we work upstairs for an hour or an hour and a half and let him out throughout the day and during lunch, he's absolutely fine all day. No accidents at all. He's also fine all night too while he's in his crate. But in the evening when we're downstairs with him he goes berserk, behaves terribly, constantly biting and snapping at us and pees frequently in the living room. We're doing everything we're supposed to, praising for toilets outside, ignoring and cleaning up when he has an accident inside, but it's almost like he's doing it out of defiance. Any tips?


----------



## Shaira Matt

For Housetraining your pup or older dogs:
1) Take them out in the morning after they wake up
2) put your dogs on a regular feeding schedule
3) Pick up a bathroom spot outside


----------



## Nat95x

Hi everyone. Hoping somebody can help. I have a 13 week old Cocker Spaniel named Ralphie. We made good progress with toilet training when we bought him home two weeks ago, only praising him when he goes outside and ignoring and giving no reaction when he goes inside. It seemed like he was getting the hang of it, never any accidents overnight. However over the last couple of days we've noticed he seems to be taking himself off to a quiet corner to pee where we can't see him, despite the back door being open constantly for him to go in and out as he pleases (thank goodness for sunny days!). He never pees in the house in front of us, as I say, it seems like he finds himself a spot where we can't see him and will do it quickly. What can I do to stop this?

Also, he is biting a lot at the moment. We try to distract him with toys but he always wants to nibble our clothes or hands. What can we do to disuade him from biting us, and to focus on his toys?

thanks x


----------



## JoanneF

Nat95x said:


> Hi everyone. Hoping somebody can help. I have a 13 week old Cocker Spaniel named Ralphie. We made good progress with toilet training when we bought him home two weeks ago, only praising him when he goes outside and ignoring and giving no reaction when he goes inside. It seemed like he was getting the hang of it, never any accidents overnight. However over the last couple of days we've noticed he seems to be taking himself off to a quiet corner to pee where we can't see him, despite the back door being open constantly for him to go in and out as he pleases (thank goodness for sunny days!). He never pees in the house in front of us, as I say, it seems like he finds himself a spot where we can't see him and will do it quickly. What can I do to stop this?x


Two things - first, really up the praise. It's when dogs realise that outdoor toilets = sausages and indoor toilets = zero that they start to try to make the effort to hold. And make sure that you reward immediately to be clear that it's for toileting and not for anything else, like coming to you.

Second, don't leave the back door open. It makes the barrier between indoors and outdoors less distinct. Keep it closed, and make a point of taking him out, more frequently than he needs, to keep his bladder from getting so full he can't hold his toilet.


----------



## Nat95x

Thank you, I hadn't at all thought that leaving the back door open would hinder rather than help! I'll bear that in mind going forwards.


----------



## Grum&Gurk

Thanks for this sticky thread, I'm working my way through it. I just posted a thread about my own problem and have found some similar posts here. My 1 year old small breed dog is pooping in her crate at night occasionally, especially if she has eaten anything during the middle of the day. I now understand that smaller breeds can sometimes take a bit longer to be accident free. I've mostly had bigger dogs before. Come to think of it, I used to have a Maltese x, and he would occasionally have accidents in the house, especially if he got stressed.


----------



## sceadugenga1

Hi I have a new pup, he's very young, I live in a developing country and his family were moving back to the US.
He remarkably good in the house, only minor incidents over night and he's never had a bowel movement inside up till today.
However it's raining heavily and he wont even consider going outside, even onto the back deck.
I suppose there's not much to be done about this, it's just got to be the exception to the "training"?


----------



## Retrogamer

I need some help here, I've tried the ways stated above, not getting angry with him, taking him outside regularly, cleaning up thoroughly with appropriate products, praising him massively (and treating him) when he goes outside BUT still he goes in the house, no warning, one minute he's happily minding his own business then he's weeing on the carpet.... I'm at my wits end here, I dont know what to do now, its really starting to get us down here.... other than this and another issue we have everything going well with him but this is really starting to take its toll....

Any suggestions at all PLEASE!


----------



## Emlar

Retrogamer said:


> I need some help here, I've tried the ways stated above, not getting angry with him, taking him outside regularly, cleaning up thoroughly with appropriate products, praising him massively (and treating him) when he goes outside BUT still he goes in the house, no warning, one minute he's happily minding his own business then he's weeing on the carpet.... I'm at my wits end here, I dont know what to do now, its really starting to get us down here.... other than this and another issue we have everything going well with him but this is really starting to take its toll....
> 
> Any suggestions at all PLEASE!


How old is he? How often are you taking him out? And what are you cleaning the accidents with?


----------



## sceadugenga1

All dogs are different, some you can house train in days, some never really get the point of it.
I suspect that a vast majority of the hundreds of puppy training books on the market are bought by people looking for a 100% sure thing house training guide for all puppies.
I doubt that there's such a thing.


----------



## Gilly Pen

All these threads are so interesting. Our little 5/6 month old Rosie JR - has began to be 'quite' good. We have a tiled floor in our kitchen and she has her bed in the corner. When we say night, night she jumps into her bed. We both go to bed at the same time so she has a routine.

1. We have said goodnight to her at around 10.30 and always go out side with her and walk around our large garden. She will do another poo/wee 9/10 times but always her wee. (She will definitely respond to 'be quick' to do a poo/wee)

2. My husband gets up at 7 am and lets her out - accidents have got less and less. Many a morning no wee or poo at all. We thought we were on the home straight. 

3. During day in this weather kitchen door to go outside stays open - found that *VERY* interesting when someone said it is annoying when they wee indoors and they could have gone outside. Rosie has done that and my husband finds it very hard to ignore it. - so I am trying to be one step ahead.

Until now -

3. She will wake about 2 am and bark - we go down and let her out. Sometimes she will have another poo or wee or both. (The other night she had us up/down and it was because when we went outside she could her a muntjac calling.) 

For some reason she doesn't want to eat much at all during the day. In fact she isn't really hungry during the day. She enjoys an evening meal around 5 - 6 pm. So - I was wondering should I try and encourage her to have a larger lunchtime meal?

Any thoughts gratefully received. (Always had two dogs and now a new puppy without an older one - what a learning curve for us humans!)


----------



## Emlar

Gilly Pen said:


> All these threads are so interesting. Our little 5/6 month old Rosie JR - has began to be 'quite' good. We have a tiled floor in our kitchen and she has her bed in the corner. When we say night, night she jumps into her bed. We both go to bed at the same time so she has a routine.
> 
> 1. We have said goodnight to her at around 10.30 and always go out side with her and walk around our large garden. She will do another poo/wee 9/10 times but always her wee. (She will definitely respond to 'be quick' to do a poo/wee)
> 
> 2. My husband gets up at 7 am and lets her out - accidents have got less and less. Many a morning no wee or poo at all. We thought we were on the home straight.
> 
> 3. During day in this weather kitchen door to go outside stays open - found that *VERY* interesting when someone said it is annoying when they wee indoors and they could have gone outside. Rosie has done that and my husband finds it very hard to ignore it. - so I am trying to be one step ahead.
> 
> Until now -
> 
> 3. She will wake about 2 am and bark - we go down and let her out. Sometimes she will have another poo or wee or both. (The other night she had us up/down and it was because when we went outside she could her a muntjac calling.)
> 
> For some reason she doesn't want to eat much at all during the day. In fact she isn't really hungry during the day. She enjoys an evening meal around 5 - 6 pm. So - I was wondering should I try and encourage her to have a larger lunchtime meal?
> 
> Any thoughts gratefully received. (Always had two dogs and now a new puppy without an older one - what a learning curve for us humans!)


At 6 months she could probably drop down to 2 meals a day, rather than 3. We knew our pup was ready for this when he went off eating one of his 3 meals. 

As for over night, we for a while set an alarm. So say she normally wakes you up at 2am, we set the alarm for 1.30am and would take her out to wee, the back to bed. Then slowly stretch it by half an hour or 15 minutes increments. It took a while and was annoying at the time, but worked well for us. 

She will get there. Just be consistent and she'll have less and less accidents 😊


----------



## Gilly Pen

Emlar said:


> At 6 months she could probably drop down to 2 meals a day, rather than 3. We knew our pup was ready for this when he went off eating one of his 3 meals.
> 
> As for over night, we for a while set an alarm. So say she normally wakes you up at 2am, we set the alarm for 1.30am and would take her out to wee, the back to bed. Then slowly stretch it by half an hour or 15 minutes increments. It took a while and was annoying at the time, but worked well for us.
> 
> She will get there. Just be consistent and she'll have less and less accidents 😊


Thank you - well I stayed up until nearly midnight. I took her out and she did a wee/poo so big hugs. At 4 pm went down to her. (As I was nearly 2 hours later going to bed and she called out at around 2 am.) Sooo - went down and bless her she did her wee & poo outside - both of us went back to bed. My husband went down at around 7.30 and let her out again. So it seems like after about 4 hours she needs to go again.

Hit on the idea of setting up our nature camera - to see her movements by the area she goes to toilet. I will have the time on there she gets out of bed. BUT!!! Can't find the card to go in the camera - so a hunt on today for that. 

(Interesting how I can't recall all this when he had an older dog to keep puppy company/training this is the way you do it)


----------



## Emlar

Gilly Pen said:


> Thank you - well I stayed up until nearly midnight. I took her out and she did a wee/poo so big hugs. At 4 pm went down to her. (As I was nearly 2 hours later going to bed and she called out at around 2 am.) Sooo - went down and bless her she did her wee & poo outside - both of us went back to bed. My husband went down at around 7.30 and let her out again. So it seems like after about 4 hours she needs to go again.
> 
> Hit on the idea of setting up our nature camera - to see her movements by the area she goes to toilet. I will have the time on there she gets out of bed. BUT!!! Can't find the card to go in the camera - so a hunt on today for that.
> 
> (Interesting how I can't recall all this when he had an older dog to keep puppy company/training this is the way you do it)


I think it just takes some pups time to get into a routine with their toileting. I can't remember at what point it happened with Rufus, but he used to regularly wake us up in the night for a wee. But he now goes first thing, on his morning walk, on his evening walk and before bed, even if we change the times of his walks. He's almost 2 so it did take him a while to get himself into the routine!


----------



## Gilly Pen

Emlar said:


> I think it just takes some pups time to get into a routine with their toileting. I can't remember at what point it happened with Rufus, but he used to regularly wake us up in the night for a wee. But he now goes first thing, on his morning walk, on his evening walk and before bed, even if we change the times of his walks. He's almost 2 so it did take him a while to get himself into the routine!


Thank you for your support.


----------



## Emlar

Gilly Pen said:


> Thank you for your support.


Anytime! Lots of things feel like they'll never get better. But you'll start to notice little changes and suddenly you won't be able to remember the last accident 😊


----------



## Gilly Pen

I am waiting to go to bed (husband in bed) and Rosie thinks it is fun to be outside and chasing moths. My bed is missing me and I have set the alarm. Can't wait for the time when this stage is over. (Note: All those poor puppies who have been put in a home possibly at this stage.)


----------



## Rafa

At six months old, she should be more than able to sleep through the night without the need to go outside.

This may have simply become a habit.

What time is her evening meal?


----------



## Gilly Pen

Rafa said:


> At six months old, she should be more than able to sleep through the night without the need to go outside.
> 
> This may have simply become a habit.
> 
> What time is her evening meal?


Thank you - she was six months old yesterday. Her evening meal is around 6 pm and we think by about 10-10.30 she should do her wee/poo and then I can go to bed. More often than not it works. From 28th June to 4th July or daughter came to stay and that caused confusion. All of us going upstairs to bed - she thought we were going to play I think. That took a few days to settle. 

Last night - I set the alarm for 4 pm - but after we went to bed the barking/crying started . 

1. I left it for about 5 mins and then went down. I let her out and she was sure she there was something in the hedge. But! I noticed a wee on the floor always same place. (I use a proper spray for pet after cleaning) So - was the barking because she wanted to wee or was it because she had stressed herself?

2. She barked again so I left it and she kept it up. So I went back down and put her back in her bed and said it was 'night, nights'. Then all was quiet. (I felt it was best not to leave her calling for too long - as I didn't want that to become a habit.)

3. My alarm went for 4 am - but all was quiet - so I left her. This morning my husband went down at 7 ish let her out - and wee and poo outside - nothing indoors.  

Note: We had the sounds of Glastonbury confusing her, then for the past few nights a muntjac in the distance. So - I thought maybe all these new noises are something she is getting to know. As she is now more aware of her surroundings and not a sleepy puppy. Plus she has such good hearing!

I have said before - I really appreciate that having another older dog - this most probably would have prevented some of these issues as she would have followed their behaviour.

We thought long and hard about what breed we should have - but - I think the Plummer Terrier in her makes her more active possibly who knows. But we have always had terriers and they all had their own characters . She is so quick to learn, and loves all her games - something our others were not that interested in but *maybe* we were not as focused on them as individuals as we are Rosie.


----------



## kris.garthwaite

Hi, first time poster on here, hoping someone will be able to help.

Our Fox Red Lab is 18 months old and we got past the usual house training when he was really young. Never had any other problems in the house....until randomly a couple of months ago. Now we come downstairs to a 'treat' practically every morning.

Nothing in that time appears to have changed. Same routines, same food, same everything. He usually gets 3 walks a day and that was always enough. We started taking him out again just before bed (which I felt was overkill, but we had to try something), but even that is hit and miss - still over half of the time he does it. It's always cold by the morning as well which suggests he wasn't 'hanging on' for us to come down in the morning, he's doing this in the middle of the night. He's also started sleeping on the couch when we're not around, which we have never allowed and he knows he shouldn't be doing - that might be a factor in all of this, it might not, but thought I'd throw it into the mix (the couch is easily wiped down and it's less frequent than the other thing).

If anyone has any thoughts on why he might be doing this and what we might be able to do to stop it I'd hugely appreciate it. We're staying at my brother's house over Christmas and I'd really like him to get out of this phase before then as we don't want to have to clean that up before opening our actual presents!


----------

