# Molly suddenly covered in white lumps



## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

On thursday last week my friend asked if i would like to swap some of my platys for her pregnant molly as whenever her molly gives birth none survive in her tank and in my tank the polar opposite occurs and all the fry survive judging by the numbers of fish I now have :scared:

anyways Friday morning i have come down to a much slimmer molly and at least 30 molly fry :confused1: counting over the weekend it seems nearer 40.

this morning I've come down and found her covered in white lumps and looking blind in 1 eye :frown: what is it and is it treatable, contagious? I've never had a fungal problem or skin problem in the 15 years I've had tropical fish, I used to get outbreaks of fin rot in my goldfish.


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## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

Any chance of a good photo?


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## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

I'll try. I *think* its ick having a quick google. Wish I'd never agreed now to let her swap :frown:


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2011)

This sounds more like a case of Lymphocytis, rather than Whitespot given the description of white 'lumps'. Whitespot (caused by a ciliated protozoan called _Ichthyophthirius multifiliis_ in freshwater fish) - as the name suggests - produces flat white lesions which are actually cysts.

Lymphocytis is a very common viral infection that affects both freshwater and marine fish. The white lumps (cell nodules) become virus factories, each spewing out hundreds if not thousands of viral particles into the aquarium water once they rupture after a few weeks.

If the problem is indeed Lymphocytis, it can't be treated as there currently isn't any way to treat a virus in any organism. Most fish that are affected recover after a short period and the disease itself runs its course within 3-4 weeks.

The only thing you can do in cases like these is to reduce stress on the fish. This means maintaining water quality, reducing overcrowding, careful handling and high-quality food. Ignore any chemical medications that claim to treat Lymphocytis.


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## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

hope these pics work I cant get photo bucket to load the pics they just go all pixelated!! 
Share this album with anyone by sending them this public link:
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## Guest (Jan 30, 2011)

sarybeagle said:


> hope these pics work I cant get photo bucket to load the pics they just go all pixelated!!
> Share this album with anyone by sending them this public link:
> Friendly for iPad Photos | Facebook


It's a bit difficult to tell from the photo and there isn't really enough to suggest either Whitespot, Lymphocytis or even Velvet as the cause of any problems.

It appears from the photo as though excess mucous is being secreted from the protective slime coat. Can you see anything trailing behind the fish or from the skin?

I can clearly see from the photo that the left eye is swollen, either as a result of an accumulation of fluid or physical damage. I wouldn't worry if the fish does become blind in one eye (not that there's any way to tell) as fish have other senses that are used for finding food and navigation (e.g. the lateral line system). Many fish that naturally inhabit very dark or even pitch-black areas have evolved to the point where they've lost their eyes completely.


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## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

no there is nothing trailing behind her, if she is profile to me i can see the little spots sticking out where as if she is side on they just look like white dots. 

Im off to my local aquatic centre (not [email protected]!!) to see what they can suggest 

Many thanks for your great advice Luke xx


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2011)

sarybeagle said:


> no there is nothing trailing behind her, if she is profile to me i can see the little spots sticking out where as if she is side on they just look like white dots.
> 
> *Im off to my local aquatic centre (not [email protected]!!) to see what they can suggest
> *


It could well be Lymphocytis _if_ the 'spots' in question are indeed protuding laterally away from the skin.

I wouldn't bother with the aquatic store unless you can 100% trust them not to sell you something that might not work; a lot of aquatic store staff jump to the wrong conclusions and sell you something that is formulated to treat something not even remotely similar. I'd leave it for a day or so and see what happens. If there's anything more sinister at work then it will normally show itself within this period.

Can you get a full set of test results for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate?


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## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

Ok water tests. Ive done them twice to double check they are correct!

Water temp is currently 24c/76F and Ive turned it up to 25c to try and combat the "ick" and will increase it slowly over the next few days until its reading 79F.

Ammonia reading- 0.1mg/litre

Nitrite - 0mg/litre 0.1 at a real push the test was almost crystal clear. 

Nitrate - 100mg/l :frown: my real issue here and like I said tested twice to double check. its somewhere between 75-100mg and the higher end of the scale I would say. 

PH - 7.0. tested with both a broad and specific scale and 7.0 on both. 

So my real issue is (unsurprisingly) the nitrate levels. Now considering just how many fish I have currently I knew it would be high. 

I do have quite a few plants totally useless on the names but at least 3 are mature plants and the rest growing well. 

I have a little algae growing on the glass but other than that a algae free tank. Several months ago I was infested BIG time but now like I say just a little green on the glass where I haven't cleaned recently. 

My question is what do I do next? Ive come home with aquilibrium aquarium salt as a most have to keep in the cupboard anyhows but I know it can be effective against white spot etc. as well as a buffer for ph problems. 

I also have some melafix to help molly with her eye problem and any secondary infections from the current parasite. 

and luckily I grabbed another bottle of nitrateminus to do the obvious. Now I don't want to go ott and try everything at once or I will end up fish less so which do I do first? Treat the nitrate problem and in a few days add the salt OR forget the nitrate at the present and tackle the disease before it spreads to further fish 

ATEOTD if I lose fish im not going to blame anyone here who has offered me advice  so im willing to "sacrifice" a few to save the rest iyswim.


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## hawksport (Dec 27, 2009)

I think I would get the nitrates down first with a series of 30% water changes.


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2011)

sarybeagle said:


> ATEOTD if I lose fish im not going to blame anyone here who has offered me advice  so im willing to "sacrifice" a few to save the rest iyswim.


You can't, you should have read the small print in my disclaimer... :lol:



hawksport said:


> I think I would get the nitrates down first with a series of 30% water changes.


That depends on what the nutrient load is like in the tapwater. Water changes are all well and good, but if the water is packed full of nitrate and phosphate the OP will go around in circles.

100mg/l. is a very high amount of nitrate, are you absolutely sure that's the correct reading? Nitrate test kits expire very quickly (within 3-5 months) due to the the short shelf-lives of the test reagents. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get a second nitrate test kit and see what that brings up; an aquatic store would also be able to test it for you.

Personally, I'd keep an eye on the fish for the next 24 hours before adding _any _ treatments. If the problem is Whitespot, then the spots will become even more obvious before the 24 hours is up. Going by the photos you've supplied, it doesn't seem like the fish is suffering from Whitespot - but then again it's much easier to diagnose a problem when the fish can be seen in the flesh.

My money is going on either Lymphocytis or a bacterial infection.


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## Guest (Jan 30, 2011)

Also, I should have mentioned that you can purchase nitrate-reducing resins for aquarium filters. The most well known of such products is API Nitra-Zorb. 

However, as I said earlier, it depends on the nutrient load of the tapwater. Very few areas of the UK have tapwater that is of what you could term 'good quality'. If the nitrate level is critically high in water from the tap, the only way to get around this is to either filter the water (through an RO or Nitragon III unit) or to buy RO water from an aquatic store. With the latter option, the water may need to be tested periodically for TDS and nutrients, as well as requiring re-mineralization to restore the pH, DO (dissolved oxygen) content and essential trace elements.


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## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

todays update : she has less spots on her, mostly on her tail now and less raised. Her eye is now just cloudy rather than looking flakey like it did last night. Shes not rubbing on anything that Ive noticed and is swimming about quite happily now. 

I will try and get a better pic of her today-not easy when several platys swarm round when I get near the glass!! Will try with the long lens on and sit over the other side of the room :lol:

Ive done a partial water change and temperature is currently up to 25c and will turn it up a little again shortly. I will buy a new water test kit this week just to double check xx thanks for all the advice you 2 xx


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## sarybeagle (Nov 4, 2009)

Just wanted to update: the following morning I came down and she was struggling to swim and was bloated-I suspected dropsy and when I came back from work she was on the bottom unable to swim far and being harrased by the other fish. On moving to a breeding tank I noticed her eyes had become very swollen and her scales had that pine cone look about them. I went out to buy some more clove oil to put her out of her misery but when I got back in (20 mins later) she was gone :frown: I couldnt believe in the space of 24-36 hours she went from ok to gone. 

Thank you both for your advice though xx


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