# Keeping hedgehogs as pets.



## Guest

*If anyone wishes to add anything please do. I will no doubt forget something.*

I myself have kept hedgehogs for just over 4 years now and still now I find myself asking questions they are the type of pet you never stop learning about.

Here's a bit of a guide to keeping them as pets.

*Quick facts.*
-Hedgehogs need to be kept between 21 - 24c.
-African Pygmy hedgehogs do not carry flea's. 
-African Pygmy hedgehogs do not live outside.
-African Pygmy hedgehogs should not eat fish flavor cat food.
-APH's live around 3-5 years (5 being a good lived hedgehog).

*Buying a hedgehog*
When looking for a hedgehog please find a breeder, pet shops rarely keep these beautiful babies in good conditions and supporting pet shop breeders is imo wrong.

When you contact the breeder you decide on they should be more than happy to answer any questions you have and offer advice should you need it.
When you go to visit good breeders will allow you to view their vivs/cages and meet the parents of your future/potential hedgehog. Be wary of any breeder who refuses to let you see the hedgehog room or hedgehog homes.

Make sure you ask if your potential hedgehog has been treated for mites and if so what with. Sadly hedgehogs can have bad reactions to ivermectin so its best to stick to what the breeder has already used to prevent a bad reaction.

The breeder SHOULD give you a contract stating that the hedgehogs in good health and that should you need to rehome the hedgehog the breeder should first be contacted.

Some breeders register their hedgehogs with the APH registry. This is good if you ever intend to breed so you dont accidentally inbreed. However if not registered you can register it yourself however the parents information wont be valid so your line will start with your hedgehog.

The APH registry has a recommended breeder list.

*Homes for your hedgehog.*
Depending on the amount of space you have there are really 3 options of suitable housing for your hedgehog. 
*Hedgehogs should NOT be kept in a cage! As they do climb and can get seriously hurt.*

The best size should be 3ft or more by 18in deep and 18in high.

First off the *zoo zone 2 (or zz2 as I put it).*








You can buy it from here; Click to buy
The zoozone 2 is a good size and fairly easy to keep clean.

Secondly and my fave option *Mesh fronted vivs*








I like these best as they are imo easier to clean and because of the mesh are better ventilated than glass fronted. 
You can buy one from here; Click here to buy.
Or build your own. You can buy the mesh from ebay (flymesh).

Third and final option is *glass fronted viv's.*.








Which you can buy from ebay or reptile shops. Please note that you will have to add in extra vents to the back of the viv to ventilate the viv enough.

*Accessories for your hedgehog.*

*Liners* 
are used on the bottom of the hedgehog cage/viv to keep in heat and soak up urine. They are easy to stick in the washer to clean and you can pick almost any colour or pattern. Some liners are half cotton half fleece others are double fleece. 
Half cotton/Half fleece is good because you get to pick what fabric you want which gives you the choice of patterns to fit your theme. 
Double fleece gives you limited patterns and colours but it keeps heat better and I find it easier to clean. 
_Picture of my half cotton half fleece liner and tunnel._









*Tunnels* are perfect for hog hiding holes and can be great for them to zip through for fun. There are a few types of tunnels being made as before its your choice which you like best. 
Hard tunnels that can be bought from pets at home are perfectly fine and maintain shape. 
Fabric soft tunnels can fall in the center but again meet your theme and choice of fabric. 
Double fleece padded tunnel which keeps shape, easy to clean and can be bought at the same time as the double liner and double pouch. 
_Double fleece tunnel and liner._









*Pouches* are used as a lovely hide for your hedgehog, ALL hedgehogs should have a pouch as it provides comfort and safety for them. Pouches are usually fabric with a fleece lining or can be double fleece. A pouch is a must have in the hedgehog world and you may find yourself soon collecting them of all different colours, types and sizes. They are fairly cheap (around £5-£7).









Wheels!

*Wheels* are another hedgehog must have, hedgehogs can run miles in one night and need a wheel to keep their mind occupied. There are many different types of wheels in the UK and (even) importing from the USA your options are endless. Please ensure you do not use a small wheel or a wheel which has bars for the legs to get caught on. This poses a huge risk to your hog. Below are some safe options of wheels you can get within the UK or import.

*Silent spinner* is the easiest to get in the UK, you will need the large silent spinner. They tend to last about a year before they start to become squeaky of which you need to try to oil it. They are not the easiest wheel to clean however they are very enjoyable for the hedgehog and are widely used by breeders and hedgehog owners within the UK. They do not fit in a zoozone 2 unless you saw the stand down.
_Picture of 12' Silent spinner in one of my vivs._








Click here to buy.

*Carolina Storm Wheel* is a HUGE wheel made by Carolina storm hedgehogs in the USA, they do export the wheels to the UK however this can be quite costly. The CSW comes with a litter pan which fits snuggly below and is by far the easiest wheel to clean, its silent and very nice on the eyes. Only issue is the size, a CSW will not fit in the zoo zone 2. 
_My Storm wheel in one of my viv's._








Click here to buy.

*Carolina Bucket Wheel* is made by the same breeder who makes the storm wheel, however this wheel comes in different colours and is much smaller so will fit in a zoo zone 2. Again its silent and very easy to clean (but not as easy as the storm wheel). It comes in red, blue, green and even sparkly green. It does NOT come with a litter pan however you can pay slightly more to get a litter pan with it. 
_Picture of my bucket wheel in one of my vivs._








Click here to buy.

*Flying saucer wheel* I do not own one of these however they apparently are very good and very easy to fit in a viv or zoo zone 2. They apparently are silent too. They are also easy to get in the UK. Maybe another member who has used one can give a review?









*Critter Cribs Wheels* I have not used these wheels yet as they are still fairly new however I have heard only good reviews. They come in many colours and fit in zoozone 2s as well as fits in standard cat litter trays.
You can buy one from here; Click here to buy.

*Feeding a hedgehog*
A mix of 2-3 dry cat foods is a good way to feed. Only chicken flavour though as fish is not suggested with hedgehogs. I use a mix of purely (which you can get at pets at home) dry food, Iams chicken cat food and Whiskass chicken cat food. Though these are not the best cat foods out there for cats they serve hedgehogs well. 
I suggest feeding lean beef mince once a week and small chicken (boneless) once a week. I also feed Scrambled egg once a week. (As well as the cat food).
Meal worms are a great treat and most hedgehogs will go mad for some. Live or dried is fine however live is the best for them as you can gut load them which then gives the hedgehog the nutrients. Dried meal worms have no nutritional value. However they are good treats for those who have owners which are bug-phobia.

*Heating a hedgehog*
Hedgehogs need to be kept warm. Hedgehogs can go into hibernation so its best to either keep your heating on constantly or get a heat pad.

*Flexiguard Petnap Pet heat Pad (33) with anti chew cable = £32*
+ £3 for a cover. Make sure you get the *Anti-chew* wire.
Click here to buy. 









*Snugglesafe Microwave heat pad* is a great back up heat pad for journeys and incase the petnap ever needs replacing. 
They are around £22 each and its best to get two per hedgehog as you need to let it go bone cold before you re-heat it.
You can buy them from pets at home.









There are other types of heat pads but these two are by far my faves. 
The patnap is controllable by using a Habistat mat stat. It will keep the heat consistent and not allow it to get to hot.

*Quilling.*

Is where old/baby quills are pushed out in favour of new adult quills, its normal for a hedgehog to quill throughout its life however at 7-13 weeks its normal for them to shed a good load instead of the average 1-2 a day. Its best to handle your baby hedgehog 2-4 hours a day (2 hours here and 2 hours there) if you have time to do 4 hours a day and stroke all over his/her body. They more than likely will huff but carry on as this is what the difference is between a friendly adult hedgehog and a huffy adult hedgehog. Do not worry, Most hedgehogs when handled correctly throughout quilling will become friendly after quilling so do not worry about your hedgehog being huffy. Its normal as its a painful time for them.

Bathing them with aveeno oil is a great way to sooth their skin. But do not over bath them and do not place the aveeno oil on them, put 1 blob of it in the warm water and put the hedgehog in the water. Dont rub off the oil.

Flaxseed oil is also good to pop a drop in their food to help dry skin which can happen during quilling. But only 1 drop and clean the food bowl out correctly afterwards so it doesnt go soggy.

*Health.*
Hedgehogs are fairly tough but when they get sick it can become quite costly due to most vets not knowing all that much about them.
Some health related stuff.

Mites - Seem to be a fairly common issue and apparently a hedgehog can get mites from what seems like no-where. The symptoms are usually excessive quill loss, excessive dry skin, itching ect. The best way to check is to stroke your hedgehog above a black surface and look to see if any white dots move. Treatments used by hedgehog owners/breeders are usually; stronghold or xeno 50 (not together obviously).

Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome - Click here to view some information on WHS.

Hibernation - Symtoms; Cool belly, Slow reactions and curled unable to unball. A hedgehog going into hibernation needs warming straight away so place on a heat pad or on your skin if needs be. If after an hour there is still no improvement its time to take him/her straight to the vet.

If anyone wishes to add any info that would be great! Or maybe even pictures of your set ups.

Enjoy and sorry there's not more information.​


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## Guest

Bump.:smilewinkgrin:


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## Guest

Great post 

Here is a pic of my set up if it helps anyone lol









(the viv has fly mesh doors )


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## Lil Miss

you forgot senior wodent wheels, they are good for hogs too

and just to add, it is very important to make sure you find a good breeder who keeps track of their hogs through the UKAPHR, as WHS is in this country now, and it is a horrible heart breaking condition, one that i have had to deal with myself.

if you cant find a good breeder then please think about contacting homeless hogs, and adopting a rescue Home - Homeless Hogs

both my hogs are kept in ZZ2's


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## AlexArt

You keep hedgehogs in cages that small!!!!!  
I've had loads of hedgies from babies and ones that are too small to hibernate to injured adults, and the smallest I've kept them in is a 23 x 16ft stable with tons of straw and leaf litter etc, and even that was too small and I felt sorry for them - do you know just how much walking a hedgie does in the wild?, doesn't matter wether it is an african or european one?!!! 
Please if you are thinking of keeping these animals as pets make sure you have something bigger than what is suggested, 12ft by 12ft is as small as I would personally go - these kind of cages are not sufficient at all, I wouldn't even keep a mouse in something that tiny! - they are wild animals not domesticated ones and need space and plenty to do, not just a wheel to try and substitute for lack of space and to keep them occupied, am horrified that that is what people keep them in!!! 
They also dig and root around alot - that is their natural behavior, which they cannot do on a cotton type liner!!! - If you showed me those cages I would say a child had made them up for a make believe pet, or a mouse/rat at best just to play in - not for actually keeping a living thing in it, I'm shocked I have to say!!!


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## Guest

AlexArt said:


> You keep hedgehogs in cages that small!!!!!
> I've had loads of hedgies from babies and ones that are too small to hibernate to injured adults, and the smallest I've kept them in is a 23 x 16ft stable with tons of straw and leaf litter etc, and even that was too small and I felt sorry for them - do you know just how much walking a hedgie does in the wild?, doesn't matter wether it is an african or european one?!!!
> Please if you are thinking of keeping these animals as pets make sure you have something bigger than what is suggested, 12ft by 12ft is as small as I would personally go - these kind of cages are not sufficient at all, I wouldn't even keep a mouse in something that tiny! - they are wild animals not domesticated ones and need space and plenty to do, not just a wheel to try and substitute for lack of space and to keep them occupied, am horrified that that is what people keep them in!!!
> They also dig and root around alot - that is their natural behavior, which they cannot do on a cotton type liner!!! - If you showed me those cages I would say a child had made them up for a make believe pet, or a mouse/rat at best just to play in - not for actually keeping a living thing in it, I'm shocked I have to say!!!


I think you are mistaken.

These are African pygmy hedgehogs. Much smaller than outdoor hedgehogs.


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## Guest

AlexArt said:


> You keep hedgehogs in cages that small!!!!!
> I've had loads of hedgies from babies and ones that are too small to hibernate to injured adults, and the smallest I've kept them in is a 23 x 16ft stable with tons of straw and leaf litter etc, and even that was too small and I felt sorry for them - do you know just how much walking a hedgie does in the wild?, doesn't matter wether it is an african or european one?!!!
> Please if you are thinking of keeping these animals as pets make sure you have something bigger than what is suggested, 12ft by 12ft is as small as I would personally go - these kind of cages are not sufficient at all, I wouldn't even keep a mouse in something that tiny! - they are wild animals not domesticated ones and need space and plenty to do, not just a wheel to try and substitute for lack of space and to keep them occupied, am horrified that that is what people keep them in!!!
> They also dig and root around alot - that is their natural behavior, which they cannot do on a cotton type liner!!! - If you showed me those cages I would say a child had made them up for a make believe pet, or a mouse/rat at best just to play in - not for actually keeping a living thing in it, I'm shocked I have to say!!!


Also you may want to download the APH caresheet from the rescue site.

Home - Homeless Hogs

It guides you on vivs, zz2's.

Fully grown APH using his home.


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## Guest

AlexArt said:


> You keep hedgehogs in cages that small!!!!!
> I've had loads of hedgies from babies and ones that are too small to hibernate to injured adults, and the smallest I've kept them in is a 23 x 16ft stable with tons of straw and leaf litter etc, and even that was too small and I felt sorry for them - do you know just how much walking a hedgie does in the wild?, doesn't matter wether it is an african or european one?!!!
> Please if you are thinking of keeping these animals as pets make sure you have something bigger than what is suggested, 12ft by 12ft is as small as I would personally go - these kind of cages are not sufficient at all, I wouldn't even keep a mouse in something that tiny! - they are wild animals not domesticated ones and need space and plenty to do, not just a wheel to try and substitute for lack of space and to keep them occupied, am horrified that that is what people keep them in!!!
> They also dig and root around alot - that is their natural behavior, which they cannot do on a cotton type liner!!! - If you showed me those cages I would say a child had made them up for a make believe pet, or a mouse/rat at best just to play in - not for actually keeping a living thing in it, I'm shocked I have to say!!!


Sorry but you are mistaken, these are pygmy hedgehogs and they have never been a wild species for starters. 
They are a hybrid of the White-bellied or Four-toed Hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris) and the Algerian Hedgehog (A. algirus), they are smaller than the European Hedgehog.

There is nothing wrong with the set ups posted so long as the hog is handled daily and allowed to run around for a couple of hours.


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## Guest

B3rnie said:


> Sorry but you are mistaken, these are pygmy hedgehogs and they have never been a wild species for starters.
> They are a hybrid of the White-bellied or Four-toed Hedgehog (Atelerix albiventris) and the Algerian Hedgehog (A. algirus), they are smaller than the European Hedgehog.
> 
> There is nothing wrong with the set ups posted so long as the hog is handled daily and allowed to run around for a couple of hours.


Exactly. Rep coming.


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## Lil Miss

AlexArt said:


> You keep hedgehogs in cages that small!!!!!
> I've had loads of hedgies from babies and ones that are too small to hibernate to injured adults, and the smallest I've kept them in is a 23 x 16ft stable with tons of straw and leaf litter etc, and even that was too small and I felt sorry for them - do you know just how much walking a hedgie does in the wild?, doesn't matter wether it is an african or european one?!!!
> Please if you are thinking of keeping these animals as pets make sure you have something bigger than what is suggested, 12ft by 12ft is as small as I would personally go - these kind of cages are not sufficient at all, I wouldn't even keep a mouse in something that tiny! - they are wild animals not domesticated ones and need space and plenty to do, not just a wheel to try and substitute for lack of space and to keep them occupied, am horrified that that is what people keep them in!!!
> They also dig and root around alot - that is their natural behavior, which they cannot do on a cotton type liner!!! - If you showed me those cages I would say a child had made them up for a make believe pet, or a mouse/rat at best just to play in - not for actually keeping a living thing in it, I'm shocked I have to say!!!


please calm down hun, these never have and never have been wild animals, so to answer your question as to how far they would run in the wild, in simple terms, they wouldnt.
they are a man made species (actually a hybrid of 2 different hedgehogs which would never meet naturally) and they are about a third to half (maximum) the size of a wild hog.

the set ups mentioned are perfectly suitable for APH, however as a rule bigger is always better. and a wheel is an absolute must.

these animals can not live outside, where on earth would any one find a 12ft x 12ft inside for them? you cant have them freerange like you can house rabbits as they are just too small

while i appreciate your sentiments, and where you are coming from, what you are saying is true tor wildies, it is far from true for APH, which are VERY different from wildies


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## twilight

im afraid you should have done your research before opening your ill informed mouth .we all adore our aph and are dedicated to them.they get the best of care and i feel insulted that you have suggested otherwise.your ignorant plain and simple.kaz


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## twilight

what no apology?nothing more to say?kaz


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## raggs

Please dont let this thread get out of hand with personal insults or argueing, any more of this and the thread will be closed..........Chris.


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## emzybabe

Thank you so much for the post, its exactly what I was looking for. 

I have a few questions tho... 

Do you have to have to vaccinate hoggies? or take them for twice yearly check ups?
Would you recommend routinely treating them form mites?
Do I have to feed them live insects? (I dont think I could do this or keep them in a tub)?
Are they easy to litter train? whats the best litter? is megazorb ok?
Is an APHR breeder the best place to get one from and what should you look for? (dont worry I'm not about to rush out and get one tomorrow)


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## Guest

emzybabe said:


> Thank you so much for the post, its exactly what I was looking for.
> 
> I have a few questions tho...
> 
> Do you have to have to vaccinate hoggies? or take them for twice yearly check ups?
> No vaccinations, and they only need to see a vet if there is a problem.
> 
> Would you recommend routinely treating them form mites?
> 
> No they only need treating if they get symptoms.
> 
> Do I have to feed them live insects? (I dont think I could do this or keep them in a tub)?
> 
> They don't have to have to feed live insects but they enjoy it
> 
> Are they easy to litter train?
> If you class putting the litter pan under the wheel to catch the poo as they run then yes :lol:
> whats the best litter? is megazorb ok?
> I use fleece for his viv and then put megazorb in his litter pan
> Is an APHR breeder the best place to get one from and what should you look for? (dont worry I'm not about to rush out and get one tomorrow)
> Either a APHR breeder or a rescue like Homeless hogs


My answers are in red


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## Lil Miss

nope they dont need any vaccs or regular check ups
i would only treat for mites if they are actually effected
nope you dont have to feed live insects, you can buy then in cans already dead, or freeze dried meal worms, and you can give them cooked chicken or lean mince as well
iv never tried litter training mine
i use either megazorb or aubiouse as bedding, i dont like fleece, harry managed to get his nails stuck in fleece once late at night, i have NEVER used fleece since

for getting a hog i would highly recommend contacting the rescue
Home - Homeless Hogs


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## emzybabe

Many thanks for your replies guys


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## emzybabe

also I was thinking it would be best to make a cage/hutch can you have cages with ramps to platforms or do they tend to fall off any heights? 

I had a look through the rescue website, its a good site but they only seem to get huffy hogs and I dont think for a first timber it would be a good idea. If I decide to get one then I will fill in an application tho. 

Do they really smell bad? is it any worse than a cat or rabbits?


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## Guest

emzybabe said:


> also I was thinking it would be best to make a cage/hutch can you have cages with ramps to platforms or do they tend to fall off any heights?
> 
> I had a look through the rescue website, its a good site but they only seem to get huffy hogs and I dont think for a first timber it would be a good idea. If I decide to get one then I will fill in an application tho.
> 
> Do they really smell bad? is it any worse than a cat or rabbits?


I don't think they smell, I clean Jeremy out every 3 days but they do have a habit of pooing whilst they run on their wheel :lol: so I wash his wheel every day 

If you visit here Set ups (pic heavy) you can browse through peoples set ups, a lot of people have hogs in mulit level vivs


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## Sarah+Hammies

emzybabe said:


> also I was thinking it would be best to make a cage/hutch can you have cages with ramps to platforms or do they tend to fall off any heights?
> 
> I had a look through the rescue website, its a good site but they only seem to get huffy hogs and I dont think for a first timber it would be a good idea. If I decide to get one then I will fill in an application tho.
> 
> Do they really smell bad? is it any worse than a cat or rabbits?


I dont think my hog smells at all. He makes a mess on his wheel every night which needs cleaning and that would probably smell if left but other than that he is pretty clean. He uses a litter tray to pee in and he doesnt poop anywhere else than his wheel or litter tray.

Once you get an APH you will be hooked and will never look back! :thumbup:


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## emzybabe

are you sure they dont poo everywhere? the set ups on the link Bernie showed were pretty pooy. I really should resist I looks like the start of something very addictive


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## Guest

emzybabe said:


> are you sure they dont poo everywhere? the set ups on the link Bernie showed were pretty pooy. I really should resist I looks like the start of something very addictive


It depends on the individual hog, my Jeremy only really poops on his wheel, but others can poop for england :lol:


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## Sarah+Hammies

emzybabe said:


> are you sure they dont poo everywhere? the set ups on the link Bernie showed were pretty pooy. I really should resist I looks like the start of something very addictive


Most i know generally poo in their wheels and thats about it, some never litter train so could be quite messy before they get a wheel :lol: it depends on the hog but they are so much fun regardless of a bit of poo  :thumbup:


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## lovedeternally

Wow, what a brilliant post! I'd never thought about hedgehogs as a pet before but it seems that they would make brilliant, fun little companions!


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## emzybabe

I was looking at cages just to get a feel for whats out there and costs. I havent seen a single 1 that I like. 

Is it ok to just use plywood or melamine to build your own or do you need to use untreated wood? do they chew?


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## emzybabe

I think the carolina storm wheel video has convinced me


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## Sarah+Hammies

emzybabe said:


> I was looking at cages just to get a feel for whats out there and costs. I havent seen a single 1 that I like.
> 
> Is it ok to just use plywood or melamine to build your own or do you need to use untreated wood? do they chew?


They dont chew like rodents do although they do chew things that smell different just before they annoint 

I use a vivarium for my hog and my hubby is going to make a second level in it for me which will be covered in wipe clean material :thumbup:

What kind of wooden cage/enclosure do you have in mind? Im sure i have seen pics of peoples home made vivs that are made from untreated wood although im not sure if that is seen as being ok or not


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## emzybabe

Thanks Sarah,

I was thinking something similar to this Great deals on small pet cages and accessories at zooplus: Small Pet Cage Maricopa

but probably with only 1 shelf over 1 end so that its still quite light in there. I would prefer something wipe clean rather than wood which harvests mould and nasties.

I also have an old 4ft indoor rabbit cage that I could probably convert with some acrylic panels tied over the bars on the inside and maybe even a shelf  Would need to get rid of an armchair me thinks

I have briefly agreed to meet someone in a few weeks time to meet some hoggies  looking forward to seeing what there like, how they smell, if they make me itchy etc


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## Sarah+Hammies

emzybabe said:


> Thanks Sarah,
> 
> I was thinking something similar to this Great deals on small pet cages and accessories at zooplus: Small Pet Cage Maricopa
> 
> but probably with only 1 shelf over 1 end so that its still quite light in there. I would prefer something wipe clean rather than wood which harvests mould and nasties.
> 
> I also have an old 4ft indoor rabbit cage that I could probably convert with some acrylic panels tied over the bars on the inside and maybe even a shelf  Would need to get rid of an armchair me thinks
> 
> I have briefly agreed to meet someone in a few weeks time to meet some hoggies  looking forward to seeing what there like, how they smell, if they make me itchy etc


Oooooh yay for meeting some hoglets :thumbup:  You will fall in love with them instantly 

That link you posted is quite similar to a viv and a lot of people prefer to use vivs so i cant see it being a problem seeing as you are going to cover the wood anyway which will keep the nasties out of the wood 

The only reason i have a viv is because it looks nicer in my living room. Jamie used to be in a zoozone 2 and i found it hard to fit things in (height wise) such as the exercise wheel!


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## Sarah+Hammies

Who can resist this little face 










Jamie annointing :laugh:


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## Guest

Just thought I'd bump this, is there anyway it could be made a sticky so new hedgehog owners don't miss this?


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## KlassyKlaws

My 17 year old daughter is about to get a male hog which is called Mr Prickle Pants 
We have a very large Guinea Pig Cage already but I'm wondering do we have to line it with Fleece or can we use wood shavings? 
We want to try and litter train him so what should we use in the tray?
We are going to get a Silent Spinner and a house for him which we will line with fleece. 

What's your guys top tips for looking after these wee guys?


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## Lil Miss

KlassyKlaws said:


> My 17 year old daughter is about to get a male hog which is called Mr Prickle Pants
> We have a very large Guinea Pig Cage already but I'm wondering do we have to line it with Fleece or can we use wood shavings?
> We want to try and litter train him so what should we use in the tray?
> We are going to get a Silent Spinner and a house for him which we will line with fleece.
> 
> What's your guys top tips for looking after these wee guys?


what cage have you got? hedgies cant have barred cages as they can climb them and injur themselves


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## KlassyKlaws

Lil Miss said:


> what cage have you got? hedgies cant have barred cages as they can climb them and injur themselves


It's one with a solid plastic bottom its quite deep, it was approved by the breeder.


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## Lil Miss

KlassyKlaws said:


> It's one with a solid plastic bottom its quite deep, it was approved by the breeder.


if it has bar sides im afraid its not suitable, hedgie cages need to be solid sided to prevent climbing and help keep the warmth from the heat source in the cage, either a zoo zone 2 style cage, vivarium, large glass tank, or home made bin style cages are the type of thing you need for a hedgie


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## Gemprice

Hi

I have just brought home my first pet a white hedgehog.

I have got her a two tier solid enclosure with wheel tunnels and tubes. 

I am not interested in litter training as i dont mind cleaning the enclosure daily and wouldnt know where to start..!! Is this wrong?

Also regarding the bedding what the breeder has told me completley contradicts what i have read on this site. She has like a bedroom on the upper floor which i filled with shredded up andrex toilet paper so she can dig snd burrow into it. I also have put teo fleece blankets on the outside of her bedroom. Downstairs i have lined the base with a towel and have sheredded up the remaining 70 percent of the andrex roll and placed this on top. I have then hidden treats in the tubes but not in the wheel. 

I have put her food and water (both in feeding bottle thingy and on a saucer) om second level not too far away from bedroom. Does this sound ok?

She is quite timid but she will get used to me i hope. 

Am i missing anything? 

I want her to have the best life possible and want to do anything i can to ensure this happens.

Thank you for any assistance 

Gem


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## Phoenix24

Well I didn't think it would be possible to litter train a hedgehog?? Most will instinctively try not to soil their own bed, but if kept in an enclosure then they will also instinctively try and pull all cage materials into their sleeping area to make a bed - and often this means dragging in soiled stuff too. 

You should know that hedgehogs' mess smells horrendous, and you will have to clean them out every day. 

The bigger the enclosure the better, by the way. Wild UK hedgehogs for example have huge territories and can wander miles in a night. Having the food right by the bed will only make your hedgehog lazy - they will get up to eat, and probably out of boredom go back to bed. The more active ones might get frustrated as having to wander round in circles! Unlike small rodents you can hardly provide them with an exercise wheel (EDIT: having just read the first page... wow can you really give them a wheel?), so I hope you hedgy will have access to a (very) secure run which they cannot climb nor dig their way out of. They are quite good climbers...

Personally I would line the cage with newspaper, as you will have to change it daily and unless you want to keep buying blankets you are going to have to wash hedgehog-poo covered things a lot.

I don't know why but they say don't use shredded paper or hay because it gets stuck in their spines - but wild hedgehogs use grass and dead leaves and you don't see them all tangled up in it. I use hay with my rescue hedgehogs without any trouble, and long strips of shredded newspaper when they are in indoor cages. 

Do hedgehogs become tame? I have hand reared a few and as soon as they were weaned they actually became quite aggressive and would hiss at me and try to spike me if I got too close. Maybe the 'domesticated' species isn't as bad, but I can't see you ever cuddling them somehow. A hedgehog's bite isn't very nice either...


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## Lil Miss

Phoenix24 said:


> Well I didn't think it would be possible to litter train a hedgehog?? Most will instinctively try not to soil their own bed, but if kept in an enclosure then they will also instinctively try and pull all cage materials into their sleeping area to make a bed - and often this means dragging in soiled stuff too.
> 
> You should know that hedgehogs' mess smells horrendous, and you will have to clean them out every day.
> 
> The bigger the enclosure the better, by the way. Wild UK hedgehogs for example have huge territories and can wander miles in a night. Having the food right by the bed will only make your hedgehog lazy - they will get up to eat, and probably out of boredom go back to bed. The more active ones might get frustrated as having to wander round in circles! Unlike small rodents you can hardly provide them with an exercise wheel (EDIT: having just read the first page... wow can you really give them a wheel?), so I hope you hedgy will have access to a (very) secure run which they cannot climb nor dig their way out of. They are quite good climbers...
> 
> Personally I would line the cage with newspaper, as you will have to change it daily and unless you want to keep buying blankets you are going to have to wash hedgehog-poo covered things a lot.
> 
> I don't know why but they say don't use shredded paper or hay because it gets stuck in their spines - but wild hedgehogs use grass and dead leaves and you don't see them all tangled up in it. I use hay with my rescue hedgehogs without any trouble, and long strips of shredded newspaper when they are in indoor cages.
> 
> Do hedgehogs become tame? I have hand reared a few and as soon as they were weaned they actually became quite aggressive and would hiss at me and try to spike me if I got too close. Maybe the 'domesticated' species isn't as bad, but I can't see you ever cuddling them somehow. A hedgehog's bite isn't very nice either...


if you dont know anything about an animal i really wouldnt try to give advise on them!

as for litter training, the simplist way to do it is to place a try under their wheel as most hoggies poop while running on their wheels most of the poop will fall out the wheel into the tray which you can then change daily.

litter wise, i keep my boys on aubiouse, they dont have nesting material as such, they did use to have small fleece offcuts in their bed, until one of my boys got a claw stuck in the actuall fleece some how, but he is a disabled boy.
you can keep them on fleece, but you do need to make sure you remove the stitching from the edges though as they can get caught in that, i would NOT use a towel, they can easily get claws and limbs tangled in the long fibers.
hay should not be used with a hedgie, shredded paper is fine, so long as its cross cut

water should also be in a bowl only and not a bottle, im curious as to what cage you have with 2 levels? as hedgies can not have a cage with bars as they will try to climb them resulting in broken limbs


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## Phoenix24

Lil Miss said:


> if you dont know anything about an animal i really wouldnt try to give advise on them!


Actually I may never have kept the APH as a pet, but I have sure kept plenty of hedgehogs so you know, their general bedding and exercise needs aren't going to be vastly different. Am I not allowed to voice my thoughts on an issue? I only saw the last post on the topic not realising it was 4 pages long already and started off with a APH expert keeper giving out tips!


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## Gemprice

Yes I have noticed she poops on the wheel! Ha! Ok I will pick up a small kitten litter tray today and place under wheel.

I have a 3.5ft high solid plastic two tier iguana/lizard enclosure with thermal control so its always set to 23degress and if its too hot it cools and if its too cold it heats up. I got it from Harrods UK if that helps it was abit pricey but its worth it.

I have also found the below information after posting here and from this I have removed the water feeder, taken out the newspaper lining under the towels and bedding. Bought some antibacterial detergent for the washing machine and stopped feeding her wet cat food. Only low fat high protein dry but I am currently mixing with the intention of weening.

When you get home
The journey home and change of environment can be stressful to any new pet, and it may take two to three weeks for your hedgehog to adjust. Leave them alone the first night to explore their new home, then you will need to be patient but if you keep handling him/her every night after this for at least 30 minutes, you will reap the awards when your hedgehog starts to trust you and be comfortable around you. It is best to do this during evening hours nearer to the time they would naturally wake up. Some will walk from hand to hand, whilst others will just want to sit on your knee for a cuddle. Try putting an old t-shirt you have worn in their enclosure, this will get them used to your scent.

The breeder should have supplied you with a couple of weeks supply of change over food. If you are changing the food from what the breeder has fed, you need to do this gradually over a couple of weeks by introducing more and more of the new food until that is all he/she is eating.
You might notice he/she has runny or green poos this can be down to the stress of the move and new surroundings or if you have gradually started to change their food it could be down to this. It should only last a few days any longer than this a trip to the vets may be required.

A hedgehog Setup
In the wild, a hedgehog will cover many miles each night. Keeping this in mind, a hedgehog requires as much room as possible. Without room, a hedgehog will show signs of depression, such as excessive sleeping, refusal to eat, repetitious behaviour, and self-mutilation. Due to their small size obesity is a very dangerous problem and hedgehogs require a fair amount of exercise to avoid liver problems due to excess weight. Pet cages with a floor area measuring 5 square feet (0.46 m2) are more are suitable for pet hedgehogs.

Cages with wired floors or bars should not be used as they are dangerous for hedgehogs, they can easily slip and get a limb caught in the wire. They also love to climb and can fall injuring a leg, foot, back or neck etc. Multi-level cages can allow a hedgehog more room to explore without taking up extra floor space, but when using multiple levels, keep in mind that a hedgehog has poor eyesight, can climb easily, but has difficulty descending and often does not seem to understand heights, so it is highly recommended that ramps and levels be completely enclosed to prevent a fall.

There are various set ups available that are suitable for your hedgehog. One of the most commonly used is the Zoozone 2, which is solid plastic, prevents your hedgehog from climbing and injuring itself. The Zoozone 2 is the smallest recommended enclosure at approx. 100cm x 50cm.

Vivariums are another good choice, they are great for retaining heat and smells but they will need to be slightly adapted to add more ventilation, or you can purchase a custom made hedgehog vivarium especially for hedgehogs that have plenty of ventilation. You should provide your hedgehog with the biggest possible enclosure you can.

There are a variety of different houses available for your hedgehog; the most common of these are wooden or fabric houses. The wooden houses can have removable lids, you can also get half logs, pigloos, (which are solid plastic, made for guinea pigs, but there have been reports of these becoming damp inside in hotter weather), or hedgehog snuggle sacks/pouches.

Your hedgehog will need a water bowl and food bowl; ceramic bowls are best as they are harder to knock over. Never use a water bottle as these can damage their teeth and there have been reports of tongues getting caught in the ball bearing. It is also a very unnatural drinking position for the hedgehog and can hurt their necks.

Some people have been able to litter train their hedgehogs, this is normally done by placing a kitten litter tray under their wheel. Quite a lot of breeders hog lets will be almost if not completely litter trained on collection.

All hedgehogs love toys and running wheels, when purchasing a wheel you should get a solid one without cross bars, which are at least 12 in diameter, there are a number of different brands on the market. The bucket type wheel is very popular. Please note they should not be given a wheel until they are 12 weeks old when their bones are fully developed. Hedgehogs also love small balls, empty toilet/kitchen rolls (slit down the middle to prevent heads getting stuck,) large tubes, paper bags and cuddly toys.

You should clean the food bowl, empty the litter tray, spot clean and change the water daily. The cage will need to be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected with a non-smell disinfectant at least once a week.

You will also need to keep your hedgehog warm, usually around 22-24 degrees. If the temperature drops below that, you will need to give them extra heat by providing a heat pad inside their cage with a thermostat or a heat lamp known as a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) with thermostat.

Substrate 
The most common substrates for hedgehogs are liners, these come in a variety of styles from cotton and fleece to double fleece or even padded. Another option would be Finacard or eco pet bed which is a recycled cardboard product.

Hay is a very big risk, and therefore should never be used. Theres a high chance of it tangling around your hedgehogs tiny legs and cutting off the blood flow.

Sawdust can cause irritations to the eyes and lungs, causing coughing and sneezing. Newspaper is good as a base but using just newspaper is a no-go as once wet the dye runs off and onto your hedgehogs skin which can cause irritations/allergic reactions.

Fleece Liners are easy to clean (stick them in the washer) and look nice too, its something lovely and snuggly for your hedgehog to walk on. Check all fleece blankets and liners for loose threads and remove them as these have been known to get tangles around hedgehogs feet stopping blood flow to toes or legs.

What to use in the litter tray
Finacard or kitchen roll are the best choices but make sure that whatever you decide to use it is dust free to help prevent respiratory issues.

Food
As insectivores , hedgehogs need a diet that is high in protein and low in fat . They also require chitin, which comes from the exoskeleton of insects; fibre in the diet may substitute for the chitin component.

Your hedgehog should be fed a staple diet of dry cat food. This should have a fat content no higher than 10% and have at least 30% protein. The first ingredient should be chicken or poultry not a cereal. There are various brands on the market that are suitable. Most breeders are now using a mixture of different brands to add some variety and so not to be stuck if they stop making one brand.

Pet hedgehogs may eat cooked lean chicken , turkey, mince beef or pork (in moderation due to fat content). Hedgehogs will often eat small amounts of vegetables and can be given small amounts of fruit as treats. Baby food is a common way to feed treats.

Hedgehogs are lactose -intolerant and will have stomach problems after consuming most dairy products. Sugar intake should be restricted to fruits, and treats with added sugar avoided.

Being an insectivore it is important you offer some form of insect preferably fresh from a pet food supplier. Canned, dried or freeze-dried are fine but can contain a higher fat content and you cannot gut load them, which come in handy if you have a hog that wont eat its veg. Mealworms, cockroaches, wax worms, and crickets are appropriate as limited treats though in moderation as many feed insects are high in fat. Some insects are more fattening than others and should be offered only occasionally once or twice a week. 
Please find below information on foods that are suitable and safe to feed your hedgehog.

Meats
Cooked Minced Beef
Cooked Turkey
Cooked Minced Lamb
Cooked Chicken

Other Food
Scrambled Egg ( NO Butter , NO Milk )
Hard Boiled Egg

Cooked Vegetables
Carrots
Potatoes
Sweet corn
Swede
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Sweet Potatoes
Peas
Pumpkin

Fruits
Strawberry
Banana
Melon
Pear
Apple
Mango
Blueberries

Live Foods
Meal worms
Mario Worms
Wax Worms
Crickets
Roaches
Fruit Beetle Grubs

Food allowed in small amounts
Rice
Pasta

Foods to Avoid
Grapes
Raisins
Chocolate
Fish
Onions
Citrus Fruits
Dried Fruit
Dairy
Mushrooms
Nuts
Seeds
Alcohol
Avocado
Bones
Caffeine
Garlic

Getting your hedgehogs diet right is critical. Its advised that you use a mix of dry cat foods, all chicken or poultry flavour as hedgehogs have a digestion issue with fish products. Below is a list of different brands of cat foods that are suitable and their composition

Foods to avoid would be foods such as Spikes hedgehog food and other hedgehog foods as these were made for wild European hedgehogs, which have very different diet requirements than African Pygmy Hedgehogs. I know its tempting to use a premade food than mix your own but it is safer and with a poor diet health.

Hedgehogs can easily become obese. If your pet hedgehog appears to be gaining too much weight, it is important that you cut back on high fat foods and treats and increase exercise. Hedgehogs vary in size so there is no "goal weight" for a hedgehog, but if they can no longer roll completely into a ball it is a pretty clear sign of obesity. Many people believe that there is a relation between a high-fat diet and fatty-liver disease in hedgehogs.

Due to their mouth shape hedgehogs should not be fed any nuts. Nut butters are acceptable, but are very high in fat so they should probably be avoided. Hedgehogs should never be fed avocados, onions, grapes or raisins, chocolate, any raw meat or egg yolks, or any canned or processed food.

Socialising
Hedgehogs are usually quite shy creatures and need to be handled regularly to form a bond with you. You will need to be patient and this is best done in the evening to begin with. You could hold your hedgehog on your knee whilst watching TV or reading. Hand feeding mealworms as a treat is a good way to help your hedgehog trust you. Most hedgehogs at some point will roll into a ball, huff and pop when disturbed, but this is quite normal and there is no need to worry. The more you handle them the better they will get.

Hedgehogs love to explore and once they are used to their surroundings will happily roam around the room, although you should make sure everything is hedgehog proof, or you could purchase a play pen for them to explore. You should never leave your hedgehog alone out of its enclosure unsupervised or around other pets.

Bath Time
Bathing your hedgehog when needed is a great way to bond (mostly because your hedgehog will be completely un-balled and trying to escape). You should not bath them more than once a month as this can make their skin dry. Fill the bath or sink with warm water (ensure it's not too hot or too cold), fill it enough so that your hog feet can still touch the bottom with its head out of the water, so about 1-2 inches of water. Add Aveeno oil to the bath water just a small drop or put some porridge oats into an old stocking and run this under the tap as the sink is filling. Gently pour water over your hedgehog (avoiding the face/head/eyes). You can use a soft bristle tooth brush on the quills and feet remove any stubborn dirt but ensure the tooth brush is soft bristles. The bathroom should be warm during the time youre bathing your hog to prevent them getting a chill. Once out of the bath wrap your hedgehog in a warm towel and sit them on your knee or on a Snugglesafe pad until dry. Do not put them back into their enclosure until they are completely dry.

Registration
Your new hedgehog will be registered with the UK African pygmy hedgehog registry. If you haven't given your hog let a name on collection please can you contact the registry with your registration number so they can add a name to the registry and keep it up to date. You can do this at [email protected]

The UKAPHR was established in order to preserve and improve the quality of the species, and to keep track of the progress of breeding efforts. In the long term it seeks to improve the knowledge of inherited traits and work towards eliminating traits that have a negative impact on hedgehog longevity and health, whilst increasing characteristics that enhance the species. The UKAPHR hopes to track the demographics and distribution of pet hedgehogs and to connect hedgehog owners and breeders with one another, to the benefit of the wider hedgehog community.

Health Issues
Hibernation
To try to prevent hibernation you should keep your hedgehog's room/Vivarium between 22c-24c. When out on long car trips, on colder days or trips to the vet it's advised to take a microwaveable heat pad (Snugglesafe) with you to help keep your hedgehog warm.

Signs of hibernation/Hibernation attempt:
A cool belly 
Wobbliness 
Unable to stand
Lack of eating & activity
Possibly unable to un-ball

Should your hedgehog attempt hibernation you need to warm them up straight away, this should be done gradually and not instantly. You can either heat up a water bottle or Snugglesafe and place them on it or you can place the hedgehog under your clothes on your bare skin. DO NOT PLACE THEM IN HOT WATER/WARM WATER. DO NOT GET THEM WET. As tempting as it is, once the water on the body cools it will cool them further. If after 1 hour of being warmed up your hedgehog hasn't shown any signs of improvement it's best to get your hedgehog off to the vet who can provide a stable heat source and do their best to bring your hedgehog out of hibernation.

After a hibernation attempt your hedgehog is more likely to try it again, its immune system is also lower, it's best to ensure your hedgehog has consistent heat during sleep and play time. You can ensure your hedgehog has a constant air temperature by using a CHE and thermostat.

Quilling
Quilling is a natural occurrence in a hedgehogs life. It is the shedding of a set of quills and growing a new set. This is a gradual process. New quills will replace the old quills within a short time. This typically happens at various times during the 1st year but the worst of the quilling is usually completed during the first 14 weeks of life.

Hedgehogs can become extremely irritable during this time. Their appetite may also reduce so do not be overly alarmed. Quilling has been compared to a baby teething so you can imagine what it is like. Fortunately it is over fairly quickly. Some hedgehogs quill fairly quickly and it may only last 4-5 days others take longer lasting 2-3 weeks. Handling them during this time can make them extremely uncomfortable and breeders suggest understanding and gentleness. This does not mean don't handle them. Some may continue in this grumpy attitude if left totally alone during this time. They will resume to their normal nature soon enough, so be understanding. You can add a bit of Flaxseed oil to the dry cat food to help soothe the process and an oatmeal bath may also be beneficial, however watch for over bathing as that can dry the skin out further. A couple of drops of vitamin e oil directly on their backs can help with dry skin. On occasions hedgehogs will go through another quilling at around 1 year of age. This is seldom as harsh and many times goes totally unnoticed.

Obesity
Hedgehogs are prone to obesity. Having a fatter than normal hedgehog is quite common, normally it can be a mixture of lack of exercise and poor diet that contribute to weight gain. Look out for excessive skin around the neck to see if your hedgehog is a bit porky. If your hedgehog is active and can still ball tightly without any problems then their weight is fine. Hedgehogs that struggle or are unable to ball tightly are overweight and will need to be placed on a strict low fat diet.

Ring Worm 
Although not common it can crop up, it is a fungal infection and can be passed from hedgehog's to humans. The signs are quite obvious in humans leaving red itchy ring like areas on the skin. If you suspect your hedgehog may have ringworm your vet will be able to do a skin scrape or use an ultra violet light to diagnose it and then provide treatment. You should see a doctor should you develop any red ring like area's on your skin.

Lumps
Hedgehogs are prone to cancer and tumours, any suspicious lumps should be seen to straight away. A biopsy should determine if its cancerous or not.

Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome 
Sadly this is a horrible genetic illness that affects African Pygmy Hedgehogs and why the Registry is so important. It has been compared to MS or arthritis in humans. It is progressive and as time goes by your hedgehog will get worse. The back legs are often the first to be affected, paralysis then spreads to the rest of the body, resulting in your hedgehog toppling over onto its side and being unable to stand. There are no known cures. Sadly the end result is usually having the hedgehog put to sleep. Wobbly hedgehog syndrome can be diagnosed by autopsy, if you decide to go ahead with that, the choice is yours.

Mites
Mites cause dry, flaky skin and itching. Patchy quill loss (with the skin tag missing) is usually a sign your hedgehog has mites. Some mites can be seen quite easily, they are tiny white dots that if you watch close enough move around. You can take your hedgehog, place him above a dark sheet and rub him softly with your hand. Inspect the dark sheet for any white moving dots. There are also burrowing mites that you cannot see but they can cause sores on the skin typically behind the ears. You can buy mite treatment online (xeno 50 mini drops) or at pets at home (Anti-Parasite Spot On for Rabbits and Guinea Pigs by Beaphar) only a drop or two is needed. (Not a full pipette). For burrowing mites you may need a stronger treatment via your vet.

Anointing
Hedgehogs occasionally perform a ritual called anointing. When the animal encounters a new scent, it will lick and bite the source, then form a scented froth in its mouth and paste it on its spines with its tongue. The specific purpose of this ritual is unknown, but some experts believe anointing camouflages the hedgehog with the new scent of the area and provides a possible poison or source of infection to predators poked by their spines. I have seen a many a hedgehog contort their bodies until they fall over, some become so entranced that they become unaware of their surroundings at the time.


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## katie25

I don't want to insult anyone so please don't shout at me but are vivariums really big enough for a Pygmy hedg? I have been thinking for ages about getting one and would like the best size home I can get but would they not get bored in such a small home or do they not move about that much? 
I am a complete hedgehog novice so have no idea.
Is it best to have 2 or 1 or a group? And do they really smell THAT bad.
Sorry if this has already been answered I am on phone and not so easy to read posts.
Also where can I get one from? I live in Sussex.


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## babycham2002

Bumping 
Can anyone give me some tips on getting my first hoglet?
I want to convert a vivarium into a suitable home. 
Tips on layout, bedding etc

Also what type of sand is best for a little sandpit (if suitable)


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## shetlandlover

babycham2002 said:


> Bumping
> Can anyone give me some tips on getting my first hoglet?
> I want to convert a vivarium into a suitable home.
> Tips on layout, bedding etc
> 
> Also what type of sand is best for a little sandpit (if suitable)


Sand = Chinchilla sand is okay for a digging box or even a litter tray although its'a bit costly for a litter tray.

Finacard is perfect for litter trays and for substrate for hogs who dig under their fleece liners.

My layout is like this:


















Vivariums should be at least 3ft x 2ft x 2ft as 2ft high is the best height to fit a wheel in any smaller and you may struggle.

Bedding I use fleece pouches made by two very good friends of mine, I get them at the African Pygmy Hedgehog Club shows but they also sell them on ebay. Wonderful thick pouches that I use all year round but for winter they are great too. (ebay name : rodders1510)

The best place to go for advice is the African Pygmy Hedgehog Club facebook group. 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/africanpygmyhedgehogclubuk/

I'm one of the admin on there however the group hosts to some of the best breeders in the country and obviously hundreds of hedgehog owners so it's a good place to get a variety of advice.


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## babycham2002

shetlandlover said:


> Sand = Chinchilla sand is okay for a digging box or even a litter tray although its'a bit costly for a litter tray.
> 
> Finacard is perfect for litter trays and for substrate for hogs who dig under their fleece liners.
> 
> Vivariums should be at least 3ft x 2ft x 2ft as 2ft high is the best height to fit a wheel in any smaller and you may struggle.
> 
> Bedding I use fleece pouches made by two very good friends of mine, I get them at the African Pygmy Hedgehog Club shows but they also sell them on ebay. Wonderful thick pouches that I use all year round but for winter they are great too. (ebay name : rodders1510)
> 
> The best place to go for advice is the African Pygmy Hedgehog Club facebook group.
> https://www.facebook.com/groups/africanpygmyhedgehogclubuk/
> 
> I'm one of the admin on there however the group hosts to some of the best breeders in the country and obviously hundreds of hedgehog owners so it's a good place to get a variety of advice.


Thank you  Have asked to join the group 
So you have no heating mats/lamps? I am worried about temperature. 
Obv having hairless dogs the house is not allowed to go really cold.

The Viv I was looking at is 4foot by 2foot but not quite two foot high, but I see what you mean about fitting the wheel in
I was thinking of a silent spinner or flying saucer.

What's finacard? shredded cardboard?
Do you feed your insects live or dried?

The chinchilla sand is definitely okay? not too fine so as to cause respiratory problems?


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## shetlandlover

babycham2002 said:


> Thank you  Have asked to join the group
> So you have no heating mats/lamps? I am worried about temperature.
> Obv having hairless dogs the house is not allowed to go really cold.


I use Petnap heat pads in nearly all my vivariums (apart from hogs that are close to the heater) I also use an oil heater in the room from October until May. The pet naps are in all the time but during warm summer months they are unplugged.

I find the pads don't dry the skin out as much as the lamps, drying the skin out causes excessive quill loss.



babycham2002 said:


> The Viv I was looking at is 4foot by 2foot but not quite two foot high, but I see what you mean about fitting the wheel in
> I was thinking of a silent spinner or flying saucer.


18inches is fine to fit a wheel in but I wouldn't go any lower than that, if you let me know where abouts you are I can maybe suggest a vivarium maker, I know some reptile shops have them but I get mine custom made as they get the vents put in for me 



babycham2002 said:


> What's finacard? shredded cardboard?
> Do you feed your insects live or dried?


Yes it's shredded cardboard and its dust free.
A bale this big lasts my 14 hedgehogs about 2-3 months for litter trays and the odd couple of vivariums.

I feed live meal worms, dried has no nutritious value and a breeder in the USA found large amounts of dried meal worms caused the death of one of her hogs, it compacted inside the hog and blocked him up which led to his death.



babycham2002 said:


> The chinchilla sand is definitely okay? not too fine so as to cause respiratory problems?


Yes Chinchilla sand is used by alot of people and it's fine, I personally don't use it as I don't really see the need but it's the only sand that is safe for hedgehogs in the UK at the moment.


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## babycham2002

shetlandlover said:


> I use Petnap heat pads in nearly all my vivariums (apart from hogs that are close to the heater) I also use an oil heater in the room from October until May. The pet naps are in all the time but during warm summer months they are unplugged.
> I find the pads don't dry the skin out as much as the lamps, drying the skin out causes excessive quill loss.
> 18inches is fine to fit a wheel in but I wouldn't go any lower than that, if you let me know where abouts you are I can maybe suggest a vivarium maker, I know some reptile shops have them but I get mine custom made as they get the vents put in for me
> I feed live meal worms, dried has no nutritious value and a breeder in the USA found large amounts of dried meal worms caused the death of one of her hogs, it compacted inside the hog and blocked him up which led to his death.
> Yes Chinchilla sand is used by alot of people and it's fine, I personally don't use it as I don't really see the need but it's the only sand that is safe for hedgehogs in the UK at the moment.


Sorry read that back and it looks like I was saying you didnt have any heat it, thats wasnt what i meant 
This mat 
http://www.amazon.co.uk/SAFE-Petnap-Electric-heat-33cm/dp/B00265EVZW
i am going to add the vents in myself (with the help of pa) but would still love to know of any down my way , I am in mid kent
Okay live mealworms it is then  I am lucky to have a good petshop that sells those just up the road Do you do crickets?
How often and how many mealworms?


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## shetlandlover

babycham2002 said:


> Sorry read that back and it looks like I was saying you didnt have any heat it, thats wasnt what i meant
> This mat
> SAFE 12 V Petnap Electric Cat Dog heat pad mat 33cm x 44cm: Amazon.co.uk: Pet Supplies
> i am going to add the vents in myself (with the help of pa) but would still love to know of any down my way , I am in mid kent
> Okay live mealworms it is then  I am lucky to have a good petshop that sells those just up the road Do you do crickets?
> How often and how many mealworms?


I use Flexiguard Petnap Pet heat Pad 33, which is chew proof. 
Cat heat pads | Whelping boxes | Heat pads from Petnap Ltd

I know someone who may have vivariums in essex but not sure if thats any help.
Most of the ones I know of are in the North west or midlands.

Others I know feed crickets as well as meal worms but I don't as I'm scared to death of them. I feed about 15 meal worms a night.


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## babycham2002

shetlandlover said:


> I use Flexiguard Petnap Pet heat Pad 33, which is chew proof.
> Cat heat pads | Whelping boxes | Heat pads from Petnap Ltd
> 
> I know someone who may have vivariums in essex but not sure if thats any help.
> Most of the ones I know of are in the North west or midlands.
> 
> Others I know feed crickets as well as meal worms but I don't as I'm scared to death of them. I feed about 15 meal worms a night.


The standard size one at the top of the page? I think that is the same as the amazon one isnt it? Its definitely sold by petnap

Per hog? I am a bit scared of crickets too, actually I am pretty scared of dead insects!!


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## shetlandlover

babycham2002 said:


> The standard size one at the top of the page? I think that is the same as the amazon one isnt it? Its definitely sold by petnap
> 
> Per hog? I am a bit scared of crickets too, actually I am pretty scared of dead insects!!


Yeah the link you posted is the right size but the wire isn't the chew proof one.

Yes per hog  Hogs need individual set ups as they can't live together.


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## babycham2002

shetlandlover said:


> Yeah the link you posted is the right size but the wire isn't the chew proof one.
> 
> Yes per hog  Hogs need individual set ups as they can't live together.


Definitely got the loaner part just was suprised at how many they had each 

so I need a diff wire? got ya


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## babycham2002

now I cant find the chew proof wire


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## babycham2002

right got one
300mm of armoured cable


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## shetlandlover

babycham2002 said:


> Definitely got the loaner part just was suprised at how many they had each
> 
> so I need a diff wire? got ya


Yeah,

Petnap sell one called flexiguard. I think, so it saves you making one yourself.


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## c0urtney

Hi there. I am looking at getting an APH, I've been doing as much research as possible, but there doesn't seem to be any breeders around me. Obviously, I want someone who can be trusted, so I am trying to avoid using gumtree. Can someone put me in contact with a breeder so I can ask questions, and get advice on what to or how to go about getting one! Thanks a lot, Courtney x


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## shetlandlover

c0urtney said:


> Hi there. I am looking at getting an APH, I've been doing as much research as possible, but there doesn't seem to be any breeders around me. Obviously, I want someone who can be trusted, so I am trying to avoid using gumtree. Can someone put me in contact with a breeder so I can ask questions, and get advice on what to or how to go about getting one! Thanks a lot, Courtney x


Facebook group 
https://www.facebook.com/groups/africanpygmyhedgehogclubuk/

Has a list of "Club Approved Breeders" these breeders adhere to a code of ethics. Most breeders on the list will meet you half way or even deliver your hog or meet you at a Hedgehog show.


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