# 15 week old working cocker spaniel biting problems



## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

my boyfriend and I have a male working cocker spaniel puppy. He is 15 weeks old as you may have gathered from the title  he's a lovely little boy and we have had him for almost 8 weeks. He does all of his business outside and hasn't chewed one thing in our house. However he bites... a lot! Now I understand puppies nip and explore with their mouth etc. But it's as if he just doesn't know when to stop! - it bloody well hurts. It's almost like he's getting overly excited and he can't stop himself, he starts lunging towards us looking crazy! We have tried the high pitched squeel which only turns him more crazier, telling him "NO" and trying our best to get out as fast as we can as he will bite our legs/feet, tapping him on the nose does absolutely nothing. I am stressed to bits with him and somedays I'm in tears because of the biting. He gets three 35 minute - 1 hour walks a day and has plenty of toys to play with. 
We are scared incase this is something he continues to do into adulthood and could really do some damage. 

Any suggestions please?


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## cava14 una (Oct 21, 2008)

I wonder if he is actually getting too much exercise. Rule of thumb is 5 minutes per month of age so he's getting a lot more. He may be overtired which would explain the over the top behaviour


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## hutch6 (May 9, 2008)

Interested to learn what his job is.


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## Siskin (Nov 13, 2012)

He doesn't understand that No means stop biting us and continuing to say it won't help as you are giving him what he wants, a reaction. Same with squealing as that often ramps up puppies even more. 
The best way of showing him that you don't like him biting you is to totally ignore him. You may be able to get away with turning away or standing in the corner, but I suspect you need to leave the room for a few minutes. When you return if he starts biting again, then out you go, every single time (annoying I know), but it will be the only way that he understands that him biting equals being ignored and left alone.


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## Rafa (Jun 18, 2012)

I would try removing him to another room when he begins biting and leaving him there until he calms down.

I wouldn't squeal, speak to him or make any sound at all as that could add to his overexcitement. What you want him to learn is that biting earns him a time out on his own. He will get the message, but you have to be consistent.

I think you're overexercising him. I would reduce it by half.


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## lullabydream (Jun 25, 2013)

Walking out of the room, and staying out of the room is the best way...even though it can be difficult because what he wants to do is play...

But walking out and shutting the door for 2 minutes stops the play.

It may take a lot of attempts, and consistency is the key...it's never a quick fix in puppies so young.

You have had him 8 weeks, and to be honest you have tried a lot of things, and that's the crux of the problem, although for certain dogs saying 'ouch' does just excite them even more...horses for courses.

What chews does he have? At this stage he will be still teething and things to chew on, natural treats, Kong teething stick are great. Chewing also relaxes dogs and puppies and can be a great pre curser to sleep.

You say he has lots of toys? How do you interact with these toys, and what mental stimulation exercises through play does he have? Mentally tiring out a puppy or dog is far better than trying to exercise them to exhaustion...you get an exercise crazy dog that just gets fitter and fitter and does not know how to settle.

You say he gets 3 walks a day, how will these increase? Just putting it out there to point out the above I have mentioned!

Working cockers are amazing dogs, and love to be busy. I think he's is just a typical puppy and he definitely will grow out of the biting with some help, so no he shouldn't be doing this as an adult.

Edit to add sorry I crossed posted with most of you


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## rottiepointerhouse (Feb 9, 2014)

Take a look around the forum and you will find it is full of people asking the very same question, some pups just mouth more than others and take a little longer to get the hang of humans not liking it. A tap on the nose or saying no really doesn't mean anything at all. You have to teach an alternative behaviour and reward that behaviour. I like to give them something else to do so for instance one of mine liked carrying a ball with a handle and another loved a soft furry toy on a long string so I would divert them into doing something else and praise that. Start teaching some basic commands like sit, down, wait etc - have a look at clicker training. Pups are often worse when they are tired and need a nap much like toddlers so don't be afraid to put pup to bed, perhaps leave a little chew and then let him sleep. When he is awake and wanting to play try to avoid games that get him over excited and stick to ones that will tire him mentally like scattering some food in the garden for him to find or hiding some yummy treats under upturned flowerpots or yoghurt pots. When he gets too bitey withdraw from him immediately, when you go back after a couple of minutes if he starts up with biting withdraw again and he will eventually understand that biting means humans go away and don't play. Relax it will get better.


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

cava14 una said:


> I wonder if he is actually getting too much exercise. Rule of thumb is 5 minutes per month of age so he's getting a lot more. He may be overtired which would explain the over the top behaviour


Thank you for your reply. Yes we are aware of the walking times they should be on, however before he was able to go for walks he was the exact same way so we were very eager to get him out and about to see if that made any difference to his behaviour but it didn't change. We thought taking him for good walks (which never tire him out to start with) would calm him down a bit


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## Sarah H (Jan 18, 2014)

Over 1 1/2 hours a day of exercise for a baby?? Way way waaayyyy too much. Cut it down and add some mental exercise instead, like using his food as training treats, stuffing his dinner in a Kong, scattering his food on the lawn or hiding it round the house for him to search out. Biting is normal, you only have to scan through the forum to find that (what seems like) every other post is about naughty puppies! Join the puppy support thread and stop squealing, shouting and hitting your pup. Instead play with him and ensure he has a variety of toys to chew on because he will be teething. If he comes to bite ensure you have a bag of treats ir a toy next to you so you can interrupt him and get him doing something else - prevention is better than cure! If he does get too bitey turn and face the wall - totally ignore him. As soon as he stops for a few seconds then you can reward him for being good. It's normal for puppies to bite, it really is! you just need to find the best way to handle it with your particular puppy. Remember you have a gundog and they have an innate need to have something in their mouths all the time. Encourage him to carry and bring you things, give him a job! He's a baby and just needs guidance, not punishment. Lots of praise and reward for doing the right thing will get you much further than telling him off. He needs to know what you _WANT _him to do instead, so think what you would rather he did and train that.


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

Siskin said:


> He doesn't understand that No means stop biting us and continuing to say it won't help as you are giving him what he wants, a reaction. Same with squealing as that often ramps up puppies even more.
> The best way of showing him that you don't like him biting you is to totally ignore him. You may be able to get away with turning away or standing in the corner, but I suspect you need to leave the room for a few minutes. When you return if he starts biting again, then out you go, every single time (annoying I know), but it will be the only way that he understands that him biting equals being ignored and left alone.


Yeah I totally get you. We have tried standing still but he continues to jump up and bite/scratch our legs, I have holes in nearly every clothing item I own now! We have now started leaving the room when he acts like this but doesn't seem bother him


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## rottiepointerhouse (Feb 9, 2014)

http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/downloads/AFTER_You_Get_Your_Puppy.pdf

Free download from Dr Ian Dunbar - chapter 5 is about teaching bite inhibition.


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

lullabydream said:


> Walking out of the room, and staying out of the room is the best way...even though it can be difficult because what he wants to do is play...
> 
> But walking out and shutting the door for 2 minutes stops the play.
> 
> ...


He has lots of rope type toys, as well as Kong toys, various other rubber type toys, balls, our slippers! The list goes on ha! We tend to play fetch a lot, we hide treats under toys for mental stimulation, have tried playing hide and seek with him too.

Would you say he is getting too much exercise with 3 walks a day? We thought this was a good amount of walks for a dog to stop him getting bored


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

rottiepointerhouse said:


> Take a look around the forum and you will find it is full of people asking the very same question, some pups just mouth more than others and take a little longer to get the hang of humans not liking it. A tap on the nose or saying no really doesn't mean anything at all. You have to teach an alternative behaviour and reward that behaviour. I like to give them something else to do so for instance one of mine liked carrying a ball with a handle and another loved a soft furry toy on a long string so I would divert them into doing something else and praise that. Start teaching some basic commands like sit, down, wait etc - have a look at clicker training. Pups are often worse when they are tired and need a nap much like toddlers so don't be afraid to put pup to bed, perhaps leave a little chew and then let him sleep. When he is awake and wanting to play try to avoid games that get him over excited and stick to ones that will tire him mentally like scattering some food in the garden for him to find or hiding some yummy treats under upturned flowerpots or yoghurt pots. When he gets too bitey withdraw from him immediately, when you go back after a couple of minutes if he starts up with biting withdraw again and he will eventually understand that biting means humans go away and don't play. Relax it will get better.


Thank you. 
He is very good with basic commands and has them down to a T. We are always hiding treats under toys for him to find. He actually naps quite a lot and is napping now as I type!


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

Sarah H said:


> Over 1 1/2 hours a day of exercise for a baby?? Way way waaayyyy too much. Cut it down and add some mental exercise instead, like using his food as training treats, stuffing his dinner in a Kong, scattering his food on the lawn or hiding it round the house for him to search out. Biting is normal, you only have to scan through the forum to find that (what seems like) every other post is about naughty puppies! Join the puppy support thread and stop squealing, shouting and hitting your pup. Instead play with him and ensure he has a variety of toys to chew on because he will be teething. If he comes to bite ensure you have a bag of treats ir a toy next to you so you can interrupt him and get him doing something else - prevention is better than cure! If he does get too bitey turn and face the wall - totally ignore him. As soon as he stops for a few seconds then you can reward him for being good. It's normal for puppies to bite, it really is! you just need to find the best way to handle it with your particular puppy. Remember you have a gundog and they have an innate need to have something in their mouths all the time. Encourage him to carry and bring you things, give him a job! He's a baby and just needs guidance, not punishment. Lots of praise and reward for doing the right thing will get you much further than telling him off. He needs to know what you _WANT _him to do instead, so think what you would rather he did and train that.


Thanks a lot for the reply.
So we are definitely over exercising him from a few comments I've had back! We have tried a lot of things but consistence is key isn't it. We will continue to divert his attention to his toys when he gets too bitey and keep him stimulated mentally aswell.


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## lullabydream (Jun 25, 2013)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> He has lots of rope type toys, as well as Kong toys, various other rubber type toys, balls, our slippers! The list goes on ha! We tend to play fetch a lot, we hide treats under toys for mental stimulation, have tried playing hide and seek with him too.
> 
> Would you say he is getting too much exercise with 3 walks a day? We thought this was a good amount of walks for a dog to stop him getting bored


It's a common mistake...

He's a 'busy' dog..a working breed who will want to be active but in a way to stimulate his brain...yes a good run and sniff in the underground is great, but at a young age especially dogs, like children are at their worse when they are over tired.

So many people up exercising thinking it will help and all you get is an over fit dog, who is so over demanding that he won't switch off...it's like they need that release.

Keep trying to play hide and seek, look at some scent games..Google is your friend. Retrieving is good, but working on variations, not just throw the ball. Get him to sit prior, there are things such as blind retrieves...

Kong's are good for calming dogs..give them stuffed and frozen.


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## Sarah H (Jan 18, 2014)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> Thanks a lot for the reply.
> So we are definitely over exercising him from a few comments I've had back! We have tried a lot of things but consistence is key isn't it. We will continue to divert his attention to his toys when he gets too bitey and keep him stimulated mentally aswell.


Are you on Facebook? If so look up the page Canine Enrichment. You will find so many ideas to keep him occupied. Although remember at his age rest is also important so ensure he gets a lot of opportunities to rest. The more you exercise him the fitter he will get, meaning you might end up with a canine athlete who you can never tire out!! Quality not quantity


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

lullabydream said:


> It's a common mistake...
> 
> He's a 'busy' dog..a working breed who will want to be active but in a way to stimulate his brain...yes a good run and sniff in the underground is great, but at a young age especially dogs, like children are at their worse when they are over tired.
> 
> ...


Thanks again. 
It definitely makes sense now referring to him as a overtired toddler because that's exactly how he seems!


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

Sarah H said:


> Are you on Facebook? If so look up the page Canine Enrichment. You will find so many ideas to keep him occupied. Although remember at his age rest is also important so ensure he gets a lot of opportunities to rest. The more you exercise him the fitter he will get, meaning you might end up with a canine athlete who you can never tire out!! Quality not quantity


Very true! Yes ok, thanks very much, I will have a look


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> my boyfriend and I have a male working cocker spaniel puppy. He is 15 weeks old as you may have gathered from the title  he's a lovely little boy and we have had him for almost 8 weeks. He does all of his business outside and hasn't chewed one thing in our house. However he bites... a lot! Now I understand puppies nip and explore with their mouth etc. But it's as if he just doesn't know when to stop! - it bloody well hurts. It's almost like he's getting overly excited and he can't stop himself, he starts lunging towards us looking crazy! We have tried the high pitched squeel which only turns him more crazier, telling him "NO" and trying our best to get out as fast as we can as he will bite our legs/feet, tapping him on the nose does absolutely nothing. I am stressed to bits with him and somedays I'm in tears because of the biting. He gets three 35 minute - 1 hour walks a day and has plenty of toys to play with.
> We are scared incase this is something he continues to do into adulthood and could really do some damage.
> 
> Any suggestions please?


We had the same problem and don't worry it's an easy fix. You just have to let him know that it's unwanted behavior and because his is so young he may not even know it's unwanted by you squealing and saying No. When playing with my dog when he was younger he would also look crazy when biting, he had those scary eyes. Here is what i recommend although I am no expert. Play with your dog, give him belly rubs or something he enjoys and when he starts to bite say "No" and then walk away. Make sure you walk away as soon as he bites so he knows that's the reason you are leaving.
P.S I am no expert or anything just thought I may be able to help because we had the same problem, my dog is also half Cocker Spaniel


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## lullabydream (Jun 25, 2013)

Might be worth looking on YouTube at kikopup and 'teaching calm'.. to be honest anything of kikopup is worth noting and using!


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

Caz1402 said:


> We had the same problem and don't worry it's an easy fix. You just have to let him know that it's unwanted behavior and because his is so young he may not even know it's unwanted by you squealing and saying No. When playing with my dog when he was younger he would also look crazy when biting, he had those scary eyes. Here is what i recommend although I am no expert. Play with your dog, give him belly rubs or something he enjoys and when he starts to bite say "No" and then walk away. Make sure you walk away as soon as he bites so he knows that's the reason you are leaving.
> P.S I am no expert or anything just thought I may be able to help because we had the same problem, my dog is also half Cocker Spaniel


Thank you!
I think that's possibly where I'm going wrong aswell as I leave it too late after the first bite to walk out of the room. I only end up leaving when he's really going for it and I can't take it anymore! 
So leave as soon as the initial bite happens? Okay, I get ya


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

lullabydream said:


> Might be worth looking on YouTube at kikopup and 'teaching calm'.. to be honest anything of kikopup is worth noting and using!


Aw fab, yes I'll have a look now


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> Thank you!
> I think that's possibly where I'm going wrong aswell as I leave it too late after the first bite to walk out of the room. I only end up leaving when he's really going for it and I can't take it anymore!
> So leave as soon as the initial bite happens? Okay, I get ya


Does you'r pup know what "No" means yet? Or any other term for "No"


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

Caz1402 said:


> Does you'r pup know what "No" means yet? Or any other term for "No"


No he doesn't seem to show any understanding of the word


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> No he doesn't seem to show any understanding of the word


Once your dog has learned what "No" is it will be alot easier, it also means you can start to implement your own boundaries. I don't actually remember how I taught him "No", i think it came naturally. Anyway i'd recommend waiting until he is doing something naughty, for my dog it's trying to get in the bin. So for example sit by the bin, when he tries to jump don't let him, push him back and say "No". And when i say push i don't mean push like hard i mean literally using as little force as possible to move him back a little bit. (I know how sensitive some people are).
P.S like i said before i really am no expert and this is my first dog, so yeah this was just from my experience.
(EDIT: The whole point of this is teaching him that "No" means you are not pleased with whatever you are doing)


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## Rafa (Jun 18, 2012)

Caz1402 said:


> Once your dog has learned what "No" is it will be alot easier, it also means you can start to implement your own boundaries. I don't actually remember how I taught him "No", i think it came naturally. Anyway i'd recommend waiting until he is doing something naughty, for my dog it's trying to get in the bin. So for example sit by the bin, when he tries to jump don't let him, push him back and say "No". And when i say push i don't mean push like hard i mean literally using as little force as possible to move him back a little bit. (I know how sensitive some people are).
> P.S like i said before i really am no expert and this is my first dog, so yeah this was just from my experience.
> (EDIT: The whole point of this is teaching him that "No" means you are not pleased with whatever you are doing)


Given that this pup doesn't have a clue what "no" means, pushing him away and saying "no" would be of no help at all.

The point is to disengage with a puppy when it's biting, ignore him/remove yourself or him from the situation.


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## JoanneF (Feb 1, 2016)

I think teaching a negative is harder than teaching a positive - by that I mean instead of trying to teach a NO (which could apply to any one of loads of things your puppy is doing at any given time - watching, sniffing, playing, bouncing, listening, mouthing, thinking, planning his next pounce etc) teach an alternative like sit, paw, down etc. I agree with the others about leaving the room when he mouths but in the wider context a 'no' is a difficult concept for a puppy.


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Sweety said:


> Given that this pup doesn't have a clue what "no" means, pushing him away and saying "no" would be of no help at all.
> 
> The point is to disengage with a puppy when it's biting, ignore him/remove yourself or him from the situation.


How else would you teach a pup what "No" means then. I don't remember how i did it. Maybe he just learned it by himself from my tone of voice? i don't know i din't do any specific training for "No"


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## Rafa (Jun 18, 2012)

Caz1402 said:


> How else would you teach a pup what "No" means then. I don't remember how i did it. Maybe he just learned it by himself from my tone of voice? i don't know i din't do any specific training for "No"


What makes you think your dog knows what "no" means?


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Sweety said:


> What makes you think your dog knows what "no" means?


If he walks to close to a river I shout "No" and he moves away from the edge
If he is climbing the bin i can say "No" and he will get down and stop
We keep him out the kitchen while the kids eat, if he tries to come in i say "No" and he stops and doesn't come in.
If he gets too playful and starts biting and i say "No" he stops straight away.
My dog deffo knows what "No" means i can assure you.


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## rottiepointerhouse (Feb 9, 2014)

Caz1402 said:


> Once your dog has learned what "No" is it will be alot easier, it also means you can start to implement your own boundaries. I don't actually remember how I taught him "No", i think it came naturally. Anyway i'd recommend waiting until he is doing something naughty, for my dog it's trying to get in the bin. So for example sit by the bin, when he tries to jump don't let him, push him back and say "No". And when i say push i don't mean push like hard i mean literally using as little force as possible to move him back a little bit. (I know how sensitive some people are).
> P.S like i said before i really am no expert and this is my first dog, so yeah this was just from my experience.
> (EDIT: The whole point of this is teaching him that "No" means you are not pleased with whatever you are doing)


So you have taught your pup that pushing him back gently means "No" rather than don't go in the bin. Not really sure why a dog needs to know the word "no" there are so many far better words to teach it like leave in the example you have given.


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## Rafa (Jun 18, 2012)

Caz1402 said:


> If he walks to close to a river I shout "No" and he moves away from the edge
> If he is climbing the bin i can say "No" and he will get down and stop
> We keep him out the kitchen while the kids eat, if he tries to come in i say "No" and he stops and doesn't come in.
> If he gets too playful and starts biting and i say "No" he stops straight away.
> My dog deffo knows what "No" means i can assure you.


Believe me, if you shouted "SAUSAGES" it would have the same effect.

He's reacting to the tone of your voice, but all you're doing is stopping him from doing something, you're not teaching him what you do want, only what you don't.

It would be better, first of all not to shout, and to teach him distinct commands for behaviours you want to encourage.

For instance, a "leave" command if he is about to pick something up, a "drop" command if you want him to let go of something and maybe a "wait" if you want him to stop.

He isn't learning anything from all of your "no" commands.


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

rottiepointerhouse said:


> So you have taught your pup that pushing him back gently means "No" rather than don't go in the bin. Not really sure why a dog needs to know the word "no" there are so many far better words to teach it like leave in the example you have given.


No he understood completely that i was telling him to not go in the bin. And you are right for better words and I do use other words. He does also know leave but he hasn't mastered it yet. He knows that he shouldn't go in the bin now and saying "No" or "Ah" sharply has the same result.


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## rottiepointerhouse (Feb 9, 2014)

Caz1402 said:


> If he walks to close to a river I shout "No" and he moves away from the edge
> If he is climbing the bin i can say "No" and he will get down and stop
> We keep him out the kitchen while the kids eat, if he tries to come in i say "No" and he stops and doesn't come in.
> If he gets too playful and starts biting and i say "No" he stops straight away.
> My dog deffo knows what "No" means i can assure you.


So walking close to the river I would ask for a wait or a come to stop him going any closer.
Climbing in the kitchen bin I would ask for a leave.
To stay out of the kitchen while the kids are eating I would teach "go to your bed" with a reward on his bed for doing so (such as a tethered stuffed kong)
Biting I would just withdraw or give an alternative to bite on such as a tug or soft toy.
No doesn't teach him what you do want him to do.


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Sweety said:


> Believe me, if you shouted "SAUSAGES" it would have the same effect.
> 
> He's reacting to the tone of your voice, but all you're doing is stopping him from doing something, you're not teaching him what you do want, only what you don't.
> 
> ...


Ok thanks for the advise, and you are right i could just shout any random thing and he would listen. He does know leave but only to the extent of if he leaves the treat untill i say he gets it. He hasn't yet been able to convert that to items if that makes sense.


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## rottiepointerhouse (Feb 9, 2014)

Caz1402 said:


> No he understood completely that i was telling him to not go in the bin. And you are right for better words and I do use other words. He does also know leave but he hasn't mastered it yet. He knows that he shouldn't go in the bin now and saying "No" or "Ah" sharply has the same result.


See my post below.


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

rottiepointerhouse said:


> So walking close to the river I would ask for a wait or a come to stop him going any closer.
> Climbing in the kitchen bin I would ask for a leave.
> To stay out of the kitchen while the kids are eating I would teach "go to your bed" with a reward on his bed for doing so (such as a tethered stuffed kong)
> Biting I would just withdraw or give an alternative to bite on such as a tug or soft toy.
> No doesn't teach him what you do want him to do.


You'r completely right, "No" isnt teaching him what i want him to do I understand. Thanks, i will adjust my training.


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## Rafa (Jun 18, 2012)

Caz1402 said:


> Ok thanks for the advise, and you are right i could just shout any random thing and he would listen. He does know leave but only to the extent of if he leaves the treat untill i say he gets it. He hasn't yet been able to convert that to items if that makes sense.


That's why you need distinct commands and different words to let him know what you want from him.


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## Caz1402 (Sep 29, 2017)

Sweety said:


> That's why you need distinct commands and different words to let him know what you want from him.


"Leave" Bin
"Come" River
"Bed" Dinner time
"No" Biting


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## Rafa (Jun 18, 2012)

Caz1402 said:


> "Leave" Bin
> "Come" River
> "Bed" Dinner time
> "No" Biting


If, as you say, you can actually stop him from mouthing with a word, rather than "no", I would use "enough".


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## Sarah H (Jan 18, 2014)

The problem with 'NO' is that dogs don't actually know what it means, we use it for loads of things and throw it in other conversations too. Sounds to me @Caz1402 is that you are using it as an interrupter, to stop them in their tracks, which is fine, but teaching an alternative behaviour would be better. RPH gave great examples like 'wait' and 'leave, and 'bed'. I have an interrupter word but instead of it having negative associations (shouting, stopping fun etc), I pair it with a positive - FOOD. So I trained them to respond to the interrupter BUT it's only rarely used - emergencies mainly. I then always give them an alternative behaviour to the one they were doing, even if that's a 'come' or 'wait'. 
Try to avoid using 'NO' and think of what you'd rather the dog do instead, so you can reward them for their good behaviour.


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## sskmick (Feb 4, 2008)

Unfortunately I can't advise on this, I have been playing rough and tumbles with Tammy she is almost 5 months old now and boy her jaws are getting stronger. Most of the time she is a sweet little girl but can turn into a full on excitable puppy in a second.

I find treat based basic training helps to calm her down,


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

:Arghh:Arghh


sskmick said:


> Unfortunately I can't advise on this, I have been playing rough and tumbles with Tammy she is almost 5 months old now and boy her jaws are getting stronger. Most of the time she is a sweet little girl but can turn into a full on excitable puppy in a second.
> 
> I find treat based basic training helps to calm her down,


It's such a struggle.
Even with treats he doesn't calm down, he gets overly excited with them too. I'd just love to know why my hand is much more satisfying than a lovely dog toy!:Arghh Driving me mad


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## lullabydream (Jun 25, 2013)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> :Arghh:Arghh
> It's such a struggle.
> Even with treats he doesn't calm down, he gets overly excited with them too. I'd just love to know why my hand is much more satisfying than a lovely dog toy!:Arghh Driving me mad


Puppies use their mouths to explore their world...

It's the only way he knows how to at the moment.

What also is happening is, you are now the complete centre of his world now he's taken the leap from the safety of his mum and siblings.

So...what he's doing is attention seeking the only way he knows how...think of the toddler who has just learnt to use words and make sense of his/her surroundings. Unfortunately the toddler drives parents mad with the word 'why' and the need to be 'socialise' so will constantly demand attention...it's very similar and draining. Just puppies hurt a lot...cockers as puppies are not called cockerdiles for nothing.

If he's mugging you for treats, then try distracting by throwing treats/kibble or redirect by throwing a toy...


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

lullabydream said:


> Puppies use their mouths to explore their world...
> 
> It's the only way he knows how to at the moment.
> 
> ...


... which is what we are doing and have been doing since he started biting. It just doesn't seems to help. His attention on the toy lasts seconds and then he's whipping his head round and grabbing my hand


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## Jamesgoeswalkies (May 8, 2014)

Goldencockerspaniel said:


> ... which is what we are doing and have been doing since he started biting. It just doesn't seems to help. His attention on the toy lasts seconds and then he's whipping his head round and grabbing my hand


I met a 12 week old Sproker puppy yesterday (Working Cocker x Springer) who looks like a cuddly toy and behaves like a crocodile, so if nothing else you can take comfort that you are not alone 

Lots of good advice on the thread ....and time out/walking away has always been the best way to interrupt the biting . But it's also a bit of a waiting game. Some puppies simply can't calm down enough to enjoy gentle play with humans ..they just can't. It's all far too exciting. So close contact play sessions (sitting on the floor with puppy and a toy) may be a no no at the moment. I find training is a great way to introduce how much fun it is to be with us .... enjoyable play sessions can come later.

To me, it's not about how to stop our puppies biting ...it's more about recognising the signs and not letting it start in the first place.

And don't panic .....better times are ahead (I have had enough puppies over the years, they do grow up!). Just don't make it a battle. 

J


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## Singlefish (Mar 24, 2017)

My working Cocker Freya was just like your wee one! I thought I'd never be rid of the scars. We started shouting ow when she bit us and then leaving the room. She eventually picked up the message that biting us meant that we would ignore her and she stopped. It even worked when she chewed on clothes. With regards to exercise, I'm pretty certain that the 5 minutes per month of age is for "on lead" exercise, at 15 weeks Freya was getting 3 walks a day on the field opposite our house, 2 minutes there on her lead 15 to 20 minutes chasing her ball, then 2minutes back on her lead. Now nearly 10 months she gets three hours a day and is thriving on it. Don't forget working cockers are bred for their stamina and intelligence, keep up the find it fetch it sort of games and be patient.
BTW he's a lovely looking boy!


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## Blitz (Feb 12, 2009)

Singlefish said:


> My working Cocker Freya was just like your wee one! I thought I'd never be rid of the scars. We started shouting ow when she bit us and then leaving the room. She eventually picked up the message that biting us meant that we would ignore her and she stopped. It even worked when she chewed on clothes. With regards to exercise, I'm pretty certain that the 5 minutes per month of age is for "on lead" exercise, at 15 weeks Freya was getting 3 walks a day on the field opposite our house, 2 minutes there on her lead 15 to 20 minutes chasing her ball, then 2minutes back on her lead. Now nearly 10 months she gets three hours a day and is thriving on it. Don't forget working cockers are bred for their stamina and intelligence, keep up the find it fetch it sort of games and be patient.
> BTW he's a lovely looking boy!


20 minutes running around and sniffing and generally doing their own thing is fine but 20 minutes chasing a ball must have put an enormous amount of pressure on unformed young joints. Far far more than walking on the lead. I do hope she does not suffer from it in later life.


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## Singlefish (Mar 24, 2017)

Blitz said:


> 20 minutes running around and sniffing and generally doing their own thing is fine but 20 minutes chasing a ball must have put an enormous amount of pressure on unformed young joints. Far far more than walking on the lead. I do hope she does not suffer from it in later life.


when I say chasing her ball she carried it around whilst trotting round and then letting it run down the slope


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## sskmick (Feb 4, 2008)

Be consistent, put him in either his crate or another room when he gets overly excited where he becomes mouthy (not for long or he will forget why he is there and will instantly become over excited to see you again. Don't be afraid to said no, don't be afraid to support his head and jaw so he can't turn his head to nip. I find sitting Tammy on my knee, holding her under her jaw and stroking her (long strokes from her head as far along her back as possible) and talking calmly to her helps, don't over do it or the excitement kicks off again.

I also have found that taking her to puppy training is helping because there are other puppies there that she can interact with. tbh she interacts with the adult dogs too including German Shepherds. What I am saying is her excitement is being channelled in a positive way. When she behaves she gets a treat.

Every dog is different and what works for one will not necessarily work for another, it is trial and error but at his age it is normal behaviour.

With Tammy once she has eaten, done her business, and played it is time to rest and at that point I can gently stroke her chest and belly until she falls asleep.

My older dog Duke was different again he was like your lad hyperactive, never really slept may be for half an hour or so, and really mouthy, isolation was the only thing that worked for him..


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

sskmick said:


> Be consistent, put him in either his crate or another room when he gets overly excited where he becomes mouthy (not for long or he will forget why he is there and will instantly become over excited to see you again. Don't be afraid to said no, don't be afraid to support his head and jaw so he can't turn his head to nip. I find sitting Tammy on my knee, holding her under her jaw and stroking her (long strokes from her head as far along her back as possible) and talking calmly to her helps, don't over do it or the excitement kicks off again.
> 
> I also have found that taking her to puppy training is helping because there are other puppies there that she can interact with. tbh she interacts with the adult dogs too including German Shepherds. What I am saying is her excitement is being channelled in a positive way. When she behaves she gets a treat.
> 
> ...


We have been consistent with leaving the room when he starts getting too excited and mouthy and from what I've noticed he has definitely seemed to calm down a lot more! It's definitely still a work in progess but It seems to be doing the trick! He interacts daily with another dog in the family and he went to something called "puppy party" at our vets which was for pups between 8weeks and 10weeks so he could learn to socialise with others.

He's lovely with other dogs, but only seems to get mouthy with us

Yeah, I suppose it's just normal at this age and fingers crossed he will just grow out of it! 
I've noticed a couple of teeth have fallen out aswell so adult teeth will be poking through soon!


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## petventure (Oct 1, 2017)

Hi sorry I've not read all the replies so apologies if it's been suggested or tried but the 2 things were doing to combat biting us is when he starts transferring him onto something that he is allowed to bite i.e. His chew toys and also in training I have a handful of treats in my fist and let him mouth me and as soon as he backs away and stops I reward him. We've only had him a few days so it's a brand new thing to us both however i can see he is starting to cotton on


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

petventure said:


> Hi sorry I've not read all the replies so apologies if it's been suggested or tried but the 2 things were doing to combat biting us is when he starts transferring him onto something that he is allowed to bite i.e. His chew toys and also in training I have a handful of treats in my fist and let him mouth me and as soon as he backs away and stops I reward him. We've only had him a few days so it's a brand new thing to us both however i can see he is starting to cotton on


Hi, yeah that's something we have been doing aswell in regards to directing him onto one of his toys... he just seems to get sick of it and would rather chew on my hand!  He's very good with doing things such as sit, paw, lie down, roll over and crawl and we reward him with treats when he does them


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## debble (Aug 18, 2017)

Hi I haven't read the replies here, just wanted to add my experience. I got my puppy at 9wks old and by 17wks old he was still a very nippy little devil!!!! I redirected to a toy or stopped play continuously although it seemed useless i just kept doing it. Just today i was speaking to my sister and stopped for a minute thinking "wow... when was the last time Piglet actually bit me?!?!" and it's been a few days, maybe a week, now of no biting - some chewing still on things he shouldn't but generally has been very good! He's 18wks at this point. So it does stop! Hopefully yours will too. Keep up redirecting, ignoring and giving plenty chews/toys to satisfy his puppy chewing needs


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## Goldencockerspaniel (Oct 5, 2017)

debble said:


> Hi I haven't read the replies here, just wanted to add my experience. I got my puppy at 9wks old and by 17wks old he was still a very nippy little devil!!!! I redirected to a toy or stopped play continuously although it seemed useless i just kept doing it. Just today i was speaking to my sister and stopped for a minute thinking "wow... when was the last time Piglet actually bit me?!?!" and it's been a few days, maybe a week, now of no biting - some chewing still on things he shouldn't but generally has been very good! He's 18wks at this point. So it does stop! Hopefully yours will too. Keep up redirecting, ignoring and giving plenty chews/toys to satisfy his puppy chewing needs


Aw that's really good! 
So far this morning he hasn't bit me once! Which is a big change as he was always biting. He has been nibbling at my dressing gown though but this I'm not too bothered about! Fingers crossed he's starting to understand that biting us results in time alone


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## sskmick (Feb 4, 2008)

It sounds like you are getting there. My little pup still nips when she gets excited, fortunately this doesn't happen often and is getting less and less. She is also learning that Duke doesn't want her hanging off his ears etc..

By Monday we will be half way through our puppy training course.


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