# Sticky  Resource Guarding



## Guest

A couple folks have posted some great articles about RG, should we try to get them all in a sticky? The topic seems to come up a good bit...


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## Dogless

Seems like a good idea to me; it's one of the most common topics to come up I think.


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## paddyjulie

A Good idea


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## Ninedogs

Yes I agree, RG is a problem, especially in a multi dog environment


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## sligy

I would love info on resource guarding, my dog has a tendency to do it with the bed every so often. not for a few months now tho


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## Vicki

I think that would be a good idea.


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## Pupcakes

Id love to see one. Id also be interested to see how people cope when their dog RGs them.

Charlie doesnt like it when unknown dogs come up to me, but is fine with dogs he likes, although he doesnt mind bitches so much.

I asked Sarah Whitehead how best to cope with this at the practical course I attended and she said, give him something else to do, like hold a toy. But then Id worry he'd RG the you, PLUS I muzzle him so what are the other options? 

Id like to see a sticky on this for sure!


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## Guest

So how does it work, do I pm a mod or??


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## JAChihuahua

ouesi said:


> So how does it work, do I pm a mod or??


No idea, but someone needs to let them know I think?

I think a sticky for RG would be a fantastic idea


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## Guest

Yay a sticky!

Okay, I'll start, hopefully others will join in with good articles too 

Jean Donaldson's little book "Mine" is a must-read on handling resource guarding.

Great video explaining how to teach drop that doesn't involve trading. Also great for guarders because it counter conditions them to seeing hands around food as a good thing.
Teaching Your Dog to "Drop" - YouTube

RG with other dogs: 
How to React When Your Dog Begins Resource Guarding Against Other Dogs - Whole Dog Journal Article


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## Guest

smokeybear said:


> _From the Whole Dog Journal:_
> 
> Ever had a dog who wont give you his bone or chew toy if you try to take it from him? Or one who gets uncomfortable or growls if you get close to him when hes eating his dog food? Or snaps at you if hes on the sofa and you want him off? Or lifts his lip in a snarl if your friend tries to get close to you?
> 
> Answer yes to any of the above, and youve successfully diagnosed your dog as having a guarding issue. The catch-all, technical term is resource-guarding, and can include guarding of dog food bowls (or food), places (dog crate, dog bed, sofa, etc.), items (rawhide, bones, balls, tissues, etc.) and less commonly, people.
> Resource-guarding simply means that a dog gets uncomfortable when we (or other humans) are around him when he has his stuff. Hes nervous that were going to take it away, so he tries to warn us off in a variety of ways, ranging from simply consuming his food faster, to an all-out bite.
> 
> Although canine resource-guarding appears to be more prevalent in certain breeds or classes of dogs, it can appear in literally any dog, including that sweet Papillion that lives down the street, or the goofy Golden Retriever who greets you happily on your morning walks.
> 
> Its important to recognize, identify, modify, or at least manage this behavior because a dog who is repeatedly pushed or punished in these situations is highly likely to eventually bite. Sure, it might be you that he bites, but it could also be your child, your neighbors child, your boss, or your grandmother. Children are most apt to be at risk for a number of reasons. They tend to disregard warnings to leave the dog alone when hes eating or has a toy; they frequently fail to notice the dogs warning signs (stiffening, growling); and they are closer to the ground, so if the dog decides to bite, most likely the childs face will bear the brunt of the attack.
> 
> Nature or nurture?
> 
> Resource-guarding is a perfectly normal survival skill that allows smaller, weaker, and lower-status dogs to keep possession of a highly valued object even when that object is the target of a larger and stronger dogs desire, says Pat Miller, a trainer, Certified Dog Behavior Consultant, and Whole Dog Journal Training Editor. In her book, The Power of Positive Dog Training, Miller notes that, Natural behavior or not, resource-guarding is a serious problem when it results in open aggression, especially toward humans.
> 
> In the wild, a group-hunting carnivore would have reproductive advantage over one who gladly relinquishes. Its a good trait, like a well-developed immune system or legs that can run fast, says canine behavior expert Jean Donaldson, in her highly educational book, Mine! (devoted solely to the topic of resource-guarding). Of course, she adds, In a domestic environment, it is undesired.
> 
> Sarah Kalnajs, trainer and Certified Dog Behavior Consultant, describes resource-guarding as having both nature (genetic) and nurture (upbringing) components. A dog might be genetically inclined to guard, but depending how much he is allowed to practice the behavior throughout his life also contributes to the severity of the problem.
> 
> Resource-guarding from other dogs is a much more acceptable or natural behavior in terms of a dogs ability to cohabitate with humans. It can certainly lead to big problems, and should not be dismissed, but for the time being, our discussion will focus on guarding from humans. Note: A dog who guards from other dogs will not necessarily resource-guard from humans.
> 
> Whats your type?
> 
> Food-guarding seems to be the most common kind of canine guarding behavior, and is present if the dog threatens or bites when:
> 
> ¡ö Approached while eating from his bowl
> ¡ö The owner tries to take back a food item the dog has grabbed
> ¡ö Approached after he finds some kind of food item in the gutter or on the street
> 
> Some dogs may be compulsive, guarding all food items and even an empty dish, says Donaldson, but she also notes, The majority will guard only when actually in possession of sufficiently motivating food. The fact that a dog does not guard a particular food (say, a Milk Bone) does not rule him out as a guarder. It just might not be worthy enough to him as, say, a chicken wing. The only way to determine whether a dog will guard a particular highly motivating food item is to test whether you can readily take that item when the dog has it.
> 
> With object-guarding, the extent of guarding is dependent upon the value of the object to the dog. Items can include, but are certainly not limited to, bones, rawhides, pig ears, favorite toys/balls, laundry items, tissues, wrappers and other garbage, sticks, and/or any forbidden objects the dog happens to pick up  which are made more valuable by extreme owner reaction, such as chasing the dog around the room to get the item back, or screeching at the dog to give the item up. While some trainers classify bones, rawhides, pig ears, and edible garbage as objects, Pat Miller classifies them as food as the dogs intent is to eat them; therefore, she classifies the dogs behavior as food-guarding.
> 
> As with food-guarding, the dog may show signs of guarding simply when a person is in the vicinity, as the person approaches, and/or if the person tries to take the object from him. It is very common that a dog wont want something unless you want it. Location-guarding is also common in modern, dog-loving households. This would describe the following:
> 
> ¡ö A dog who does not allow owner or spouse into the bedroom or on the bed once the dog is on the bed
> ¡ö A dog who is grumpy if jostled while on furniture, or when someone tries to move him
> ¡ö A dog who threatens passersby while hes in his crate, car, or favorite rest spot
> 
> The severity of resource-guarding depends upon the value of the item, and who is approaching. In the case of location-guarding, the dog might allow the wife on the bed, but not her husband. Owner-guarding seems to occur fairly frequently when other dogs are present. Occasionally, however, the dog will guard his person if the dog is on leash with the person, or near her. Some people interpret this as protectiveness.
> 
> Pat Miller differentiates these behaviors. A good protection dog recognizes a legitimate threat to his person and acts to deter the threat, or waits for instructions from the human to act. A dog who is guarding his person  in the sense of resource-guarding  covets his owner as a possession that hes not willing to share with other dogs, or sometimes other humans. He sees the approaching dog/person as a threat to his enjoyment of his resource, rather than a physical threat to the person.
> 
> Owner-guarding can also become somewhat muddied if the owner has in his possession some resource  food or a bone, for example  that is valuable to the dog. He may react if his human carries treats or a bait bag. In this case, what, really, is the dog guarding: item or owner?
> 
> Trainer Virginia Broitman notes that many dogs who guard their owners are actually very insecure, and might feel empowered to act out because their humans are there. Or, the dog is on leash and cannot escape, so he resorts to an impressive display to keep the stranger away. Were he without his handler, or not on leash, we might see a different reaction.
> 
> Stay positive
> 
> Youve shouted No! Youve stomped your foot. Youve used a physical correction. But your dog still freezes and growls when you get near him when hes eating or when he has his stuff. What can you do?
> 
> First, you need to understand that shouting, stomping, and using physical corrections on the dog will only make matters worse.
> 
> I recently saw video footage of a trainer working with a large, young dog who had a history of guarding his food bowl. Over time, the owners had tried a variety of approaches: yelling at the dog, leaning over him while he ate and yelling, hand feeding, and petting the dog while he ate. Unfortunately, the owner reported that the dog had become reactive to the owner when the owner was at a greater and greater distance from the guarded food. And when the owner tried dominance  in which he stood over the dog while the dog ate and made him do things for his food, then physically reprimanded the dog for being aggressive  the owner got bitten.
> 
> While the footage was stellar  the camera caught all of the dogs warnings superbly  the method that the trainer recommended for dealing with the problem was not. Instead of using behavior modification, which has the potential to make the dog safe around anyone, the trainer elected to use force and physical corrections using a choke chain to show the dog that the people were in charge.
> 
> The trainer advised the couple to approach the bowl with the dog on leash and physically correct the dog for lunging toward the bowl or showing any signs of aggression (guarding), then make the dog sit about a foot away from the food. Once the dog was calm, he was allowed to eat, remaining on leash with the owner. If the dog showed any aggression, the handler was to physically correct the dog and yank him away from the food bowl, wait for the dog to calm down, then start again.
> 
> There are several problems with this approach. First, the couple hoped to one day have children, and this method taught the dog nothing about interacting with someone who didnt have a leash and the strength to make a physical correction. In addition, the trainer repeatedly triggered a reaction from the dog. Behavior experts agree that, in contrast to the approach used in the video, successful behavior modification works at a sub-threshold level, at a low-enough level of intensity to prevent the dog from reacting. Also, the trainer also did nothing to address the dogs emotional state (nervous, insecure, and stressed) and instead intensified it; what was defined as calm was anything but.
> 
> Its possible to suppress guarding behavior using force, says Pat Miller. However, you havent changed the dogs emotional response to a threat to his resource, just his physical response. Its quite possible that the guarding behavior will return if and when he feels too threatened, or is approached by someone that he doesnt perceive as capable of overpowering his desire for his resource.
> 
> Any time you use force, you risk escalating the level of violence rather than modifying the behavior. You may not know until youve done significant behavioral damage that your dog is one who escalates, rather than shuts down, in the presence of violence.
> 
> Heres another dire scenario: If your dog growls at you over his food bowl and you punish or challenge him in some way, it might very well occur to him that his growl wasnt sufficient to warn you off. He may resort to the next warning level  a snarl, snap, or worse  in an effort to more effectively protect his food.
> 
> Behavior modification:
> 
> Get to the problems root
> 
> Experts agree that the best route to take in dealing with resource-guarding is to use a combination of management and behavior modification.
> 
> Essentially, management entails intervening in (or anticipating and preventing) a situation so that the dog cannot repeat inappropriate behavior. For example, we keep food and toys picked up around a resource-guarder so that he cannot engage in guarding. Management does not necessarily or teach the dog anything; he simply has less opportunity to practice an undesirable behavior.
> 
> The most important tools in the behavior-modification toolbox, though, are systematic desensitization and counter-conditioning.
> 
> Desensitization involves exposing the dog to whatever it is that previously evoked his fear or anxiety, but at a distance and intensity that does not produce a response.
> Counter-conditioning is a process in which we replace a dogs involuntary, undesirable reaction (such as fear) with a more desirable response  one that is incompatible with the undesirable old response (such as the eager anticipation of a tasty treat). We create a positive emotional response by associating an event (your approach) with something good (a reward). This methodology has been proven to work, and is relatively easy and pleasant for both human and dog.
> With counter-conditioning, you dont exert your control over the dog in any way, but instead, transform your presence around the dogs possessions into a signal that even better things are coming. One event becomes a reliable predictor of another event, and the subject develops an anticipatory response to the first event. By pairing good things (extra scrumptious treats) with the formerly bad thing (your approach or presence near whatever he is guarding), your proximity starts to become a better thing  a predictor of what is to come (treats!).
> 
> The goal is to transform a food-guarder who becomes tense or upset when a person approaches him while hes eating into a dog who is happy to be approached while eating, as this reliably predicts the delivery of even more food or treats.
> 
> Donaldson stresses the need to work at a low threshold; if at any point the dog shows the original reaction, you have gone super-threshold, and it is necessary to back up and start at a point where the dog does not react. No good comes of rehearsing the dogs old, growly behavior by replicating super-threshold versions of the trigger. In fact, it can make the dog worse.
> 
> Donaldson also makes it clear that when working with a guarder, we need to be sure that the first event (the threat to the resource) must come before the delivery of the counter-conditioning treat. For example, in a food bowl exercise, the approach, bowl touch, or bowl removal must precede the addition of bonuses to the dish. This means that we do not, for example, show a dog the bait in hopes of preventing a guarding reaction. Doing so will not condition the appropriate emotional response.
> 
> Doing the work
> 
> Ideally, you start with a young pup who doesnt guard and teach him early on that your presence predicts good stuff, says Miller. You do this by offering to trade something wonderful for whatever he already has  such as a toy of moderate value, to start with  working your way up to really high-value items. I teach a Give cue by saying Give, then offering a high value treat in exchange for his object. Repeat until he will happily give up any object when you ask him to Give. 
> 
> Trainers use different protocols; there is always more than one way to approach an exercise. The protocol you use should be tailored to your dog, depending on the seriousness of his guarding behavior. Progress gradually to the next step, only when your dog is totally relaxed at the current step, says trainer Virginia Broitman. Some dogs will move quickly through the steps, while others may need weeks of work. Dont rush! If at any point you are concerned for your safety or unclear on any step, discontinue the exercises and consult an experienced trainer/behavior counselor for personalized assistance.
> 
> One example of a protocol for a dog who already guards objects begins with a good look at all the items in the dogs environment and ranking them according to their value to the dog. For instance, a ball may be a low-value item, while a rawhide may be extremely high-value. A list might look like this:
> 
>  Stuffed squeaky toys
>  Latex squeaky toys
>  Rubbery flying disks
>  Pigs ears
>  Rawhide chews
>  Rope toys
>  Balls
>  Socks
>  Newspapers and magazines
> 
> Once the items have been ranked, training begins with the items that the dog doesnt especially care about and does not want. Initially, higher value items must not be available to the dog, because we want to prevent him from practicing his guarding behavior.
> 
> A session begins with the trainer presenting a low-value item to the dog and telling him to Take it! Almost immediately, the trainer gives a cue for Drop it! and gives the dog an extremely delicious treat. The idea is that the dog is more than happy to drop the low-value item in favor of the treat. This exercise would be repeated dozens of times over a number of sessions.
> 
> Note: If the trainer is concerned that the dog may act aggressively in order to take the higher-value treat, she should have the dog on a tether, position herself just out of reach, and toss the treats in such a way to most safely reach for the low-value item. Again, in the case of a dog whose guarding behavior rates higher than a four on the scale found on page 5, the services of a qualified, positive canine behavior professional are recommended.
> 
> Only when the dog is comfortable with the first step would the protocol change, first by giving the dog the item and walking away, giving him a minute to enjoy the low-value item, and then returning to trade. As long as the dog continues to respond well to these exercises, you would work up to the more valuable items higher on your dogs list. Training would occur in a variety of locations, and from then on, throughout the dogs life, spot checks would be instituted to be sure that the dog retained what he learned.
> 
> Note: This example is a summary provided only to give the reader an idea as to what is involved in rehabilitating a guarder. If you have a guarder, you will need to follow a more detailed, structured protocol, and may require the assistance of a qualified behavior professional.
> 
> If your household includes children, you will need to take special precautions. Initially, only the adults should work with a dog who guards; kids should be a part of the guarding-rehabilitation program only after the adults have worked extensively with the dog, and only under direct supervision of an adult. Never assume that once your dog stops guarding with you, that hell stop guarding his items from the kids.
> Similarly, you should never assume that once your dog no longer guards his cherished items from you or your family, he will no longer guard them from other people. Plan, manage, and supervise your dogs interactions carefully, to prevent any possible harm to other people.
> 
> For location-guarding, follow a similar protocol. Start by using a place the dog does not guard and reward him for coming away from/off the place willingly. Donaldson likes to use target training as part of this protocol.
> 
> Manage in the mean time
> 
> Guarding behavior can be a daunting challenge to overcome, especially if it has progressed significantly. In this case, you must find an experienced trainer/behaviorist with whom to work. Until you are able to get help, management is a valid alternative. This involves avoiding the problem or trigger through environmental control. For example, if your dog guards pig ears, remove them from your home and do not allow him access to them. Keep the bedroom door closed to a bed-guarder.
> 
> If there is a management failure, and the dog gets on the bed, you can either ignore the dog and wait for him to come off the bed on his own, or, more proactively, redirect him to an alternative activity, such as calling the dog to the kitchen for a cookie or inviting him out for a brief walk.
> 
> If your food-guarder ever manages to pick up something thats dangerous (such as a bar of dark chocolate) or valuable to you (like your prescription glasses), Donaldson advises trying a quick, calm, bait and switch. Bribe or distract the dog with anything you can think of. Although bribery is totally ineffective for fostering actual behavior change, when youre in a jam, anything goes, she says. But remember, repeated management failures teach the dog nothing.
> 
> Rehabilitation of a resource-guarder takes time and requires patience. But the payoff in the end  for you, your dog, and your friends and family  is well worth the effort.


Thanks SB, was hoping you'd post that again so I can steal it


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## smokeybear

*Weblinks*






http://www.apdt.co.uk/content/files/training-tips/Preventresouceguarding.pdf

http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/resource-guarding/

http://www.clickersolutions.com/articles/2002b/objectguarding.htm

http://drsophiayin.com/blog/entry/treatment_of_food_possessive_dogs_is_about_finesse_not_force

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/is...e-Guarding-Behavior-Modification_20368-1.html

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/resourceguardingandfoodgame.pdf

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/classicalconditioningchangesfoodbowl.pdf

http://veterinarynews.dvm360.com/re...-interspecies-translation?id&pageID=1&sk&date

http://positively.com/dog-behavior/...al&utm_source=twitter.com&utm_campaign=buffer

*Interdog Resource guarding*

http://www.clickertraining.com/node/3339

http://www.whole-dog-journal.com/is...Behavior-Modification_20368-1.html?s=FB110113

*Book*

Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mine-Practi...=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1355049780&sr=1-4


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## smokeybear

How to Prevent Resource Guarding in a Multiple-dog Household | Karen Pryor Clicker Training


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## paddyjulie

Hi, Any links for a dog that will resource guard it's owner from it's other housemate?


How to react etc if it does happen?


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## Pupcakes

paddyjulie said:


> Hi, Any links for a dog that will resource guard it's owner from it's other housemate?
> 
> How to react etc if it does happen?


I have this problem with Charlie and unknown dogs.


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## smokeybear

Mine! covers this and here

How to Prevent Resource Guarding in a Multiple-dog Household | Karen Pryor Clicker Training


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## smokeybear

Another course in 2013

Resource Guarding with Sarah Whitehead

Date: Friday 16th August 2013

Venue: Chobham, Surrey

Capacity: 22

Resource guarding is at the heart of much more aggression than we might imagine. This Masterclass will look at how to spot resource guarding in the park, at home, and in classes and consultations, and will look at ways in which we might act to resolve these situations before they become confrontational.

We will also look at the most effective ways to treat resource guarding in dogs, and discuss the pros and cons of some of the more commonly used behaviour programmes. What really works - and what doesn't.

The day includes refreshments and a delicious light lunch.

Price: £145.00

Seminars and Masterclasses | Think Dog


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## Pupcakes

smokeybear said:


> Another course in 2013
> 
> Resource Guarding with Sarah Whitehead
> 
> Date: Friday 16th August 2013
> 
> Venue: Chobham, Surrey
> 
> Capacity: 22
> 
> Resource guarding is at the heart of much more aggression than we might imagine. This Masterclass will look at how to spot resource guarding in the park, at home, and in classes and consultations, and will look at ways in which we might act to resolve these situations before they become confrontational.
> 
> We will also look at the most effective ways to treat resource guarding in dogs, and discuss the pros and cons of some of the more commonly used behaviour programmes. What really works  and what doesnt.
> 
> The day includes refreshments and a delicious light lunch.
> 
> Price: £145.00
> 
> Seminars and Masterclasses | Think Dog


Im hoping to attend the sex and hormones Masterclass. Are you attending any SB?


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## smokeybear

Pupcakes said:


> Im hoping to attend the sex and hormones Masterclass. Are you attending any SB?


Are you suggesting that I need to go on a masterclass about sex? :yikes: :ciappa:

If I had a hormone left.............. 

No, I went on the Emily Larlam (Kikopup) seminar last year and this year I will be on various seminars/workshops with Sue Sternberg, Ken Ramirez, John Rogerson, Pam McKinnon, Ian Dunbar, Brenda Aloff to name but a few.


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## Pupcakes

smokeybear said:


> Are you suggesting that I need to go on a masterclass about sex? :yikes: :ciappa:
> 
> If I had a hormone left..............
> 
> No, I went on the Emily Larlam (Kikopup) seminar last year and this year I will be on various seminars/workshops with Sue Sternberg, Ken Ramirez, John Rogerson, Pam McKinnon, Ian Dunbar, Brenda Aloff to name but a few.


LOL!! thats not what I meant! :lol:

Oooh wow, sounds like you have a jam packed year. Id love to attend all these seminars (although I openly admit I dont know all of them!) I want to learn so more and dont know where to start!

Can you reccomend any good books on male dog to dog aggression? (A little off topic sorry)


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## smokeybear

I can recommend book on aggression, none I know of that are specifically only to do with male to male aggression

Brenda Aloff	Aggression in Dogs
Jean Donaldson	Fight! A practical guide to the treatment of dog to dog aggression
Patricia B McConnell & Karen B London	Feisty Fido, Help for the lead Aggressive Dog


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## Pupcakes

smokeybear said:


> I can recommend book on aggression, none I know of that are specifically only to do with male to male aggression
> 
> Brenda Aloff	Aggression in Dogs
> Jean Donaldson	Fight! A practical guide to the treatment of dog to dog aggression
> Patricia B McConnell & Karen B London	Feisty Fido, Help for the lead Aggressive Dog


Thank you  I have the second (not read it yet, currently in my bag ready to read!) And will check out the rest.


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## Jan Semon

Hi, my young rescue dog has never shown signs of guarding until the last week when I took on another rescue dog as a foster. She steals her toys and 
anything she likes the look of and takes it to her bed. When my daughter or
I try to remove the items she growls and snaps. I managed to get the item 
from her by bribing her out of the room with a treat , but today I did not
realise she had a toy on her bed and when the other dogs went near her she 
snapped very nastily. I told her off and managed to get the toy from her when she was not looking and then separated her from the others. I have
two other dogs who she has never displayed this behaviour with it is only 
since the new foster arrived. She came from abroad and was starving and 
very scared when she was found. She is very loving normally but this new
behaviour is scary.


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## FEJA JUODAS

this is a new term to me....but interesting...it was mentioned ref a post on raw feeding when i said my dogs are more aggressive when i give them raw food....

now maybe some of these puzzling to me behaviours of my two dogs are in this category !!! views welcome !

1. the bed. there is a ritual every night where the older female top dog i call her is used to sleeping with me but my male younger dog likes to challenge this by getting up on the bed himself before her if he can and not moving even growling at the other dog if she comes near him !

after a lot of petting for about ten minutes he gets off the bed and takes his usual position in the doorway for the night

i have no problem passing him he will move for me but not for my other dog who avoids going near him and waits til the coast is clear to pass by

2. eating...both dogs are fierce if the other dog tries to eat from their dish

they know their own dishes but each will try and STEAL from the others dish if the other dog moves off

3. toys bones etc

both dogs are obsessed with trying to take the other dogs bone or toy

if i give them separate own toys they ignore them and kick off again barking and lunging to get the other dogs toy off them !

sigh

i often end the squabbling by yelling at them and taking all toys away from them

the female usually keeps the toy whatever it is and the male just stands facing her barking madly

lol

3 stroking both seek attention if i stroke one dog so i have to stroke them both

neither dog growls at me for taking toys or food off them i add

other dogs well none often met but no chance of sharing food with them toys they are ok about

ps both dogs i add thinking about original poster here, both did challenge me over toys when young pups

i reacted to it in fear a little but then lost my temper and subdued the dog shouting at it to make it clear i was able to take what i wanted from them...and i only had to do it about two times per dog for it to be never a problem again...

it is frightening when growled at and i was lucky they were puppies when i dealt with that issue i add ! i would not be so happy to do that now big adults !


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## thaventen

Thank you for a well written post, it really made me think. D1 Spec Lug Nuts


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## wendym71

Interesting reading. I have a 14 week old Border Collie who has suddenly become aggressive and bitey when I try to take things out of his mouth that he shouldn't have, like rubbish in the streets. I guess this is a form of resource guarding and bribing him with treats doesn't work. Any other ideas are welcome!


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## wax

I have an american bulldog, (female) and a male cat, i had the cat first.
They are fine with eachother apart from when there's food, my dog has resource guarding issue's, she'll lunge and snap at my cat, i have brought a mussel so i can correct this without putting my cat in danger.
I have read loads of books, posted question on loads of other site's, looked at video's on the internet, and ask my vet, but none of the methods seem to work, does any one know how to correct this , i really don't want to give my dog up, as i know this is my fault , and i would feel really bad letting my dog go, and feel as i have failed her.
please can someone help. thanks.
(she dosen't have the same problem with my other dog, or people around food)


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## Presley

The book "Mine" is great but it can be very complicated to understand. Maybe not for trainers but for laymen.


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## Guest

Another fantastic article with video examples:
http://iheartdogs.com/ask-a-dog-trainer-why-do-some-dogs-guard/


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## Huskey1024

Thanks for posting interesting read


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## Cassyj

I think my 16wk Springer is starting to guard his food he's growled at my cat when he got to close and at me when I picked his Kong up to see if he had anything left in it any tips on nipping this in the bud


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## Guest

Cassyj said:


> I think my 16wk Springer is starting to guard his food he's growled at my cat when he got to close and at me when I picked his Kong up to see if he had anything left in it any tips on nipping this in the bud


Have you had a chance to read through the articles linked in this thread? That's where I would start.
And keep the cat away from him when he's eating, he deserves to eat in peace. Cats are bad about attempting suicide by dog that way, and they don't seem to heed warnings very well....


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## nikki123

Does anyone have any advise on only resource guarding with only certain people in the family? My dog doesn't do this it with me but will to my mum and is even worse with my dad?


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## Girlymonkey

We have a 10 month old mongrel who we rehomed at 6 months. He has shown no signs of guarding until the last few weeks. He's not guarding from us - I just tested it by taking a pigs ear from him (then added cream cheese to it and returned it to him). He's absolutely fine with this. However he has been starting to guard with other dogs. We walk him in an area where many dogs are walked and other owners give treats regularly. Recently, he has started sitting in front of other owners for a treat, and if their own dog comes he snaps at them (no growling or 'real' biting, more of a warning), and tonight he snapped at another dog who approached him when he was chewing a stick. 
All of the articles I have read are about multi dog households, where you are in control of both dogs in a controlled environment. Does anyone know of an article or have suggestions of how to deal with this with other dogs before it gets more serious?


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## Guest

Girlymonkey said:


> We have a 10 month old mongrel who we rehomed at 6 months. He has shown no signs of guarding until the last few weeks. He's not guarding from us - I just tested it by taking a pigs ear from him (then added cream cheese to it and returned it to him). He's absolutely fine with this. However he has been starting to guard with other dogs. We walk him in an area where many dogs are walked and other owners give treats regularly. Recently, he has started sitting in front of other owners for a treat, and if their own dog comes he snaps at them (no growling or 'real' biting, more of a warning), and tonight he snapped at another dog who approached him when he was chewing a stick.
> All of the articles I have read are about multi dog households, where you are in control of both dogs in a controlled environment. Does anyone know of an article or have suggestions of how to deal with this with other dogs before it gets more serious?


If he were mine I would stop these interactions where he has an opportunity to guard. If he has a toy or a stick, keep other dogs away from him. If owners are handing out treats, call him away and keep him out of there.


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## Girlymonkey

ouesi said:


> If he were mine I would stop these interactions where he has an opportunity to guard. If he has a toy or a stick, keep other dogs away from him. If owners are handing out treats, call him away and keep him out of there.


Is this teaching him not to guard? To my mind that just makes him less socialised. There are sticks and dogs and treats everywhere in our Park. I feel with such a young dog there should be a way of training him rather than not letting him socialise?


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## Guest

Girlymonkey said:


> Is this teaching him not to guard? To my mind that just makes him less socialised. There are sticks and dogs and treats everywhere in our Park. I feel with such a young dog there should be a way of training him rather than not letting him socialise?


It's removing his opportunity to practice undesirable behavior. The more he gets to practice snapping at other dogs, the better he will get at it. 
By removing the trigger and the triggering situations, you lessen his anxieties about the whole thing and hopefully will also learn that you will intervene so that he doesn't have to, this too should help build his confidence.
It is perfectly normal for dogs to guard resources from other dogs, especially those they don't share a home with.


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## Girlymonkey

Hi, 
Just a follow on question from this topic. Pup is now 13 months old. We have mostly dealt with the guarding issue above - we insisted that if treats are being given, both dogs get them at the same time. This seems to work.
However, just recently he has started guarding toys (not just his own, but stealing them from other dogs and guarding). He has also taken a dislike to a few spaniels and similar sized black dogs! He doesn't growl or have agressive body language, he just snaps when they get close (but not in a playful way). 
It seems like he is enjoying bullying rather than him being scared etc.
Any suggestions?


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## Rafa

Girlymonkey said:


> Hi,
> Just a follow on question from this topic. Pup is now 13 months old. We have mostly dealt with the guarding issue above - we insisted that if treats are being given, both dogs get them at the same time. This seems to work.
> However, just recently he has started guarding toys (not just his own, but stealing them from other dogs and guarding). He has also taken a dislike to a few spaniels and similar sized black dogs! He doesn't growl or have agressive body language, he just snaps when they get close (but not in a playful way).
> It seems like he is enjoying bullying rather than him being scared etc.
> Any suggestions?


Well, you were advised by Ouesi not to allow him to be in a situation where treats are being dished out, but you continued and now, his behaviour has worsened.

It sounds to me as though he's a dog who doesn't enjoy socialising, hence his habit of warning other dogs away.

I wouldn't allow him to be in a position where he can steal toys from other dogs and guard them, that's an absolute recipe for a fight.

As Ouesi said, the more he practises these behaviours, the better he becomes at them. I would revamp his walks to more one on one with you, some training, some play, but encouraging him to focus on you rather than other dogs.


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## Girlymonkey

So I maybe didn't explain fully the situation. We did stop him getting treats for a while and then gradually reintroduced them with selected dogs that we know well. 
We have now stopped him playing with dogs who have toys, but I feel we need to get a solution that doesn't just keep him away but a way to teach him to actually play nicely. Contrary to your summary, he loves playing with other dogs. 
The spaniel thing started when he was playing with a small, black spaniel and it repeatedly tried to hump his face. He got, understandably, annoyed. He went through the appropriate warnings and then snapped at him. Since then he has reacted to spaniels and small black dogs. His body doesn't tense up, or do any other aggressive type signs. 
I walk him on a lead anyway, so I am now keeping him away from dogs that I think might be a problem, but this is not a long-term solution. Sometimes the dogs approach him, and I want him to be a well adjusted dog!


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## Guest

Girlymonkey said:


> So I maybe didn't explain fully the situation. We did stop him getting treats for a while and then gradually reintroduced them with selected dogs that we know well.
> We have now stopped him playing with dogs who have toys, but I feel we need to get a solution that doesn't just keep him away but a way to teach him to actually play nicely. Contrary to your summary, he loves playing with other dogs.
> The spaniel thing started when he was playing with a small, black spaniel and it repeatedly tried to hump his face. He got, understandably, annoyed. He went through the appropriate warnings and then snapped at him. Since then he has reacted to spaniels and small black dogs. His body doesn't tense up, or do any other aggressive type signs.
> I walk him on a lead anyway, so I am now keeping him away from dogs that I think might be a problem, but this is not a long-term solution. Sometimes the dogs approach him, and I want him to be a well adjusted dog!


You have to intervene sooner. 
When you see a situation that might get iffy, intervene. Call him to you, diffuse the tension, change the subject if you will. 
So for example with the Spaniel was annoying him, call your dog away, shoo the spaniel away and give your own dog a break. 
If there are toys involved, watch closely, any signs of tension, call him away, diffuse, then try again.

Though ideally I wouldn't allow play/interactions between dogs when there are resources involved. I do with my own dogs who live together, but not random dogs who don't regularly share space.


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## Caroline Hart

Sorry but I'm new to this forum, and couldn't see where to post for the best!

I need some advice about resource guarding, my daughter has a cocker poo who stayed with me at the weekend, I knew he had a problem with resource guarding but I forgot as my other dogs dont and I went to take something from him and he turned on me biting my arm and growling quite viciously . My concern is how should she deal with this as she has three children and obviously they have friends come and play and it is a worry if they took something from him!


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## Girlymonkey

Caroline Hart said:


> Sorry but I'm new to this forum, and couldn't see where to post for the best!
> 
> I need some advice about resource guarding, my daughter has a cocker poo who stayed with me at the weekend, I knew he had a problem with resource guarding but I forgot as my other dogs dont and I went to take something from him and he turned on me biting my arm and growling quite viciously . My concern is how should she deal with this as she has three children and obviously they have friends come and play and it is a worry if they took something from him!


I think the first stage it approaching when he has something that he might guard, and from whatever distance is safe and he is still relaxed, you throw a high value treat to him (maybe cheese, a bit of steak, whatever is highly valued by him) and then you move away. Do this for a while until he is relaxed with you going right up to him with the treat (don't push it too far too quickly, just a few times per session). Then maybe reach towards the resource he is guarding while giving him the treat, then touch the guarded object etc. When you do eventually get to take the object from him, give it back again immediately with the high value treat as before. If my dog has a high value chew or bone, I periodically take it and add a smear of cream cheese to it and give it back. This keeps him assuming that if I take something then it is worthwhile for him.


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## kimthecat

Caroline Hart said:


> Sorry but I'm new to this forum, and couldn't see where to post for the best!
> 
> I need some advice about resource guarding, my daughter has a cocker poo who stayed with me at the weekend, I knew he had a problem with resource guarding but I forgot as my other dogs dont and I went to take something from him and he turned on me biting my arm and growling quite viciously . My concern is how should she deal with this as she has three children and obviously they have friends come and play and it is a worry if they took something from him!


 Good advice from Girlymonkey.

When your granddaughters friends visit , your daughter needs to make sure there is nothing left lying around that he can guard .


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## Rachel Oxburgh

Hi there,
thanks for this - it's very useful. I have a 4-month old puppy who is becoming increasingly aggressive around a range of resources. I am trying to work out whether we need professional help or if I can sort it out myself. The article you posted mentions a scale 'on page 5' but it's not included in your post. Do you have the scale? (and if so, could you post it?).
Many thanks!


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## Cayley

I’ve been online and struggling to find answers so was wondering if anyone had any idea how to handle, not guarding over food, but stress? 

My pups always been a bit panicked over dinner: speeds up in a frenzie if you come near to her bowl. We’ve been fighting this by dropping treats into her bowl, luring her away with treats and letting her go back. It’s what our trainer said to do to avoid her getting aggressive. 

She’s now 7 months and not much has changed. She’ll recall away from her dinner fine and I can go near her without her speeding up too much. But the whole time I can see she is worried the food will disappear. (She won’t take her eyes off it.) Now If I give her a cows ear she takes it into the other room to eat. 

The problem is more pronounced with my husband. He hid her food ball and told her to find it. We play it a lot as I’m trying to train her to find a scent. When she found it, she squatted and peed a tiny bit. I’m pretty sure it’s a submissive wee, not an excited one as she only does it around food. She’s done it with me once since but multiple times with my husband. 

He does work away Mon-Fri which only started a couple of months ago so I’m wondering if it’s confusing her... 

Also, since spending the weekend at his parents, she has taken to whining and carrying her food bowl “at” us after she has eaten until told to “leave it.” And then she will go and occupy herself with something else. 

She is part Lab and so food is VERY important to her. Also she isn’t submissive in any other situation and is very confident with strangers and other dogs. (A little too confident actually.)


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## Bob_the_lab

Hi everyone, not sure if this is the right thread but I’ll give it a go.

My 3.5 month old pup has started to become very aggressive when we try and remove random objects from his mouth on walks. 

Now we’ve tried to teach ‘leave/drop’ but he seems particularly protective over the stone / random potentially dangerous item he picks up and will not respond to that quickly.

My concern is his safety, so I’ll resort to opening his mouth to try and fish it out ASAP (maybe this is where I’m going wrong). As soon as I’m near his mouth with my hands, he’ll start deep, long growling and snap and bite me quite hard (drawn blood a number of times). He’ll then proceed to jump up and bite. 

Is this resource guarding (as it’s not technically food), and therefore should I practice traditional resource guarding training? I’m seeing a trainer in a few weeks and they mentioned it could be fear related - so would be good to get others thoughts too. 

Thanks


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## JoanneF

Bob_the_lab said:


> Is this resource guarding (as it's not technically food),


Yes, a resource can be anything the dog values - food, toys, a sunny spot - anything. The harder you try to take it, the harder he will try to keep it (imagine if you were in a lovely restaurant enjoying a favourite meal and you believed that someone was going to steal it - you would try hard to keep it too). So always have a better thing to swap.


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## lullabydream

Bob_the_lab said:


> Hi everyone, not sure if this is the right thread but I'll give it a go.
> 
> My 3.5 month old pup has started to become very aggressive when we try and remove random objects from his mouth on walks.
> 
> Now we've tried to teach 'leave/drop' but he seems particularly protective over the stone / random potentially dangerous item he picks up and will not respond to that quickly.
> 
> My concern is his safety, so I'll resort to opening his mouth to try and fish it out ASAP (maybe this is where I'm going wrong). As soon as I'm near his mouth with my hands, he'll start deep, long growling and snap and bite me quite hard (drawn blood a number of times). He'll then proceed to jump up and bite.
> 
> Is this resource guarding (as it's not technically food), and therefore should I practice traditional resource guarding training? I'm seeing a trainer in a few weeks and they mentioned it could be fear related - so would be good to get others thoughts too.
> 
> Thanks


Yes resource guarding and you would be best to play swapsies rather than taking the item off him. It will just make him guard items he wants more, as he just sees them as his.

So take higher value treats with you, something really tasty that you can get him to drop the item and have that instead.

Don't then take the item, lure him away as he's a puppy keeping exciting treats coming then he should soon forget he had a stone he thought was worth it


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## Bob_the_lab

Okay thanks both. I’ll continue training the ‘leave it’ indoors with safe objects and nicer treats so hopefully he’ll start doing things more instinctively and easily outdoors. Tbh I’m glad I shouldn’t be taking things directly - the bite today was extremely painful!


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## O2.0

@Bob_the_lab since your pup is so young and already biting you this hard, I'm glad to hear you're getting professional help. 
Resource guarding is simple enough to solve, but equally simple enough to create a massive issue also. 
That your pup is this young and already this aggressive is worrisome 

Might be worth a mention to the breeder too. There is some evidence that OTT guarding in some of the retrieving breeds could be genetic as well.

You may find this video helpful for teaching drop. Note the progression of creating an association with the cue to eventually adding food.


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## Bob_the_lab

O2.0 said:


> @Bob_the_lab since your pup is so young and already biting you this hard, I'm glad to hear you're getting professional help.
> Resource guarding is simple enough to solve, but equally simple enough to create a massive issue also.
> That your pup is this young and already this aggressive is worrisome
> 
> Might be worth a mention to the breeder too. There is some evidence that OTT guarding in some of the retrieving breeds could be genetic as well.
> 
> You may find this video helpful for teaching drop. Note the progression of creating an association with the cue to eventually adding food.


Thank you, the video was really useful!

But blimey, we thought this was relatively normal puppy behaviour but it sounds like it could be something to really watch. Can all puppies be trained out of this then? And when you mention a genetic thing, is this a propensity to bite as opposed to there being an issue which can't be re-wired to desirable behavior?!

Both his parents are show dogs; we only met the mum and she was extremely affectionate (almost to the point she wouldn't leave us alone and would nudge us when we stopped petting).


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## sarahjim

I have a rescue dog that has been with me since a puppy. He exhibited food aggression toward his littermates at minimal age. I worked hard at calming this behavior through getting him to accept my hand on his food dish etc. As he got older, his idea of high value expanded beyond food to the couch, me, toys. I started correcting him according to the dominance theory. but it did not work at all. Made it worse. Then I read a bit about it and learned that it was far better to exchange value for value. If I want him off the couch, I give him a treat, and he happily moves. I never give treats to him in proximity with the others, and they only get small half biscuits that they down immediately. When I finally let go of the idea of intimidating him out of resource guarding, things completely turned around and he is quite happy and reliable now.


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## tabelmabel

This has some useful info in it


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