# Puppy Biting



## NikiJackson

My dalmatian puppy ( 11 weeks old) is biting a lot lately and today she bit me really hard and made me bleed. She always goes to bite when my hands are near her neck/collar or when I am trying to get something out her mouth that she shouldn't have.

Also when we are having a cuddle she will start biting into my arm or anywhere else she can reach. I tell her no and use the lead to direct her away from me and this seems to make her even more aggressive.

Is this normal puppy behaviour or am I doing something wrong?

Niki


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## RachaelKeisha

its good that you have picked up on this at such an early age, it is quite normal for puupys to mouth as this is a way in which they interact with their littermates however they learn off the bothers/sisters and mother what is acceptable level of biting. as you are now the mother role its important you learn her that this biting is unappectable otherwise it will get worse as she gets older.
the first and main thing to put in place is the rule that hands are not play toys, this tends to be mostly men who playing with the dog will play fight with the hands, this sends the dog the singnal that its ok to play and bite hands.
next whenever she bites/mouths you you need to really object to it, best ways I have found that work the quickest is to just shout a really loud NO! in a stern deep voice, then straight away turn away from her and blank for a couple of minutes, repeat this exercise everytime she bites. if you dont make the 'NO!' comand loud and deep she will think your just playing. The first couple of times you do it may scare her a bit but thats what you need, its not as cruel as it sounds and works quick.
not sure what other advice you have had but if anyone tells you to tap the end of her nose then dont as the dog's nose is a very sensive part of its body and this is a uneffective and unpleasent way to correct her.


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## NikiJackson

Thanks so much for your help, I will let you know how I get on.

Niki


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## Animal_Lover

Its VERY normal for a puppy to bite and its something she will grow out of in time, I'd advise when you cuddle her and she starts biting make a loud OUCH everytime she does it and it will startle her, it won't work over night it can take a couple of weeks for it to work but it will, also if the OUCH sound dosen't work, put her into a room on her own everytime she does it and keep her there for 10 minutes and it will teach her that its wrong to bite. And never smack your puppy for biting as it will make them worse. 

I did this with my Staffy and it worked wonders.


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## andrea 35

Hi she may also be sore in the mouth if puppy teeth are on the move we used to give Daisy our lab cold raw carrot out of the frige it soothed her gums but also meant she could chew something hard to eliviate the desire to chew , it made a mess to start with bloody carrot everywhere, but she soon began to eat them too and now they are her favourite treat better than biscutes any day .Ignoring the bitting is ok to a point but you must tell her NO or NO BITE every time dont laps and let her sometimes and wonder why its not sinking in, 
Andrea


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## daniellechua

How to stop your dog from biting?Your puppy loves bitting as 11 weeks old is the teething period. As bitting will reduce the pain during teething. Naturally, dog learn to inhibit their bite when they are four months old from his siblings, parents and friends. As he is staying with us instead of his family members so we take up the responsibility to train him.

How to train your puppy to stop from bitting? Get him on training.

First, whenever you puppy bite you, you need to inform him let him know you are suffering. When he bites you, try to yield or making noise showing you are in pain. He will get shock and stop bitting immediately by looking at you innocently. Leave him alone for few seconds. The worse thing for puppies will be staying alone without companion. So they will realize, you don't like them to do that. Remember to keep this action consistent and persistent when training your puppies.

What can you do if you are not around? Crate training is the best! As you have no time to supervise them so crate them. But do remember to leave toys or treats for them when crating them as they might need toys or treats to ease the pain during teething. When they are chewing on the toys or treats, it will help to massage the gums of puppies. It will help to break the skin on the gums where new tooth come from and cut down the discomfort. Besides, chewing the toys or treats will help to ease the boredom when staying inside the crate. (Puppies are easily got bored with the toys so provide a wide variety of toys from time to time)

Tips do not leave shoes or socks for your puppies to chew as this might develop misunderstanding for your puppies when they saw shoes or socks they will just bite it. If you are having a bitting maniac dog they might want to try with this method. Putting a nylon bone in the freezer and whenever he start bitting, give him the bone as the cold bone would numb his teeth a little and of course the chewing eases the pain too.

Love and Understand your dog!


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## Gemma83

I give my pup ice when hes teething/ really chewy and bitey (sorry terrible use on english lang - but you know what I mean) 

It really seems to help as not only is it fun for him to chew on it numbs his gums so he dosn't chew anything for a while after. I found it great to give before meal times when he was going throuh the worst of the teathing, as it seemed to settle him a lot.

Also its a great treat anyway as it has not fat/ calories, and mine now gets moer excited about the freezer door being opened then the fridge!


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## nevenoah

hi, i have had my dachshund puppy for about 4 weeks now and she is also biting my hands and arms and even some times my face. i have been trying to teach her it is wrong from the start by saying no and turning away and ignoring her for a few minutes but for some reason its not working, she has plenty of toys and bones and even teething toys to chew on but she still seems to enjoy biting me instead. Is there anyone with some advice for me because i want to solve this problem soon as i have two small children and dont want her to bite them


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## MorningMonster

You can buy rope toys for dogs in the shape of bones or cute little animals and soak them in water and then put them in the freezer. Give the frozen rope toy to your pup and the cold will help soothe hurting gums and provide an appropriate chew toy :0) Much better than your hand! Make sure you get the good quality rope toy with natural dyes in though.


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## nevenoah

thanks will have to try something have just tried the off command someone told me about it seemed to work a bit then she bit me a few times really hard and just seemed to run about going crazy biting me even more


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## lisa dyer

nevenoah, i have also tried the off command and the same thing happend to me, buster is 12 weeks old, and he went loopy aswell, a bit like a mad minute, i am keeping with the off command but i have also been giving him icecubes and they are working really well it has cut the biting down loads


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## nevenoah

hi lisa will try that out thanks


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## Boleyn

Another good thing to do for teething is get an old towel damp it then put it in th freezer, the coldness will soothe babys gums.


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## kittysoo

That must be why my mutts like my hubbys damp face flannel. I just thought they were being pervy like trying to eat knickers!

Sorry to lower the tone here, but with my lot if the clothes are not in the washing basket you can be sure that they will have a good chew!

PS I have heard that if you plug the small end of a kong and fill it up with gravy and little bits of veg and pop it in the freezer that helps. Very messy though so one for eating outside or on some newspapers. Helps with boredom too, especially in hot weather xxx K


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## karen

Make sure she's beginning to exercise. In packs puppies drain energy play fighting, but they soon learn when it gets too painful. Other puppies hurt them and they learn from experience who much pressure to apply. I would make hands a no go area. when she approaches make a sound... grr, No. tsst whatevr works. I tend to prefere Tsst or shhht. You can't put anger behind it at it can become a universal don't do that sound the pup can recognise and know enoughs enough. 

Don't encourage her to play tug of war games or chew bummer squeeky toys. These items and games encourage dogs pray drive and you don't want to do this as she's already displaying tendencies. 

Stimulate her mind with search games. Show her a treat. let her smel it. Then hide it in a room and let her find it. Encourage her to search helping her at first. She'll probably eat the treat when she finds it. Try to stop her and retreave the treat. Take her outside again and hide and repeat the game. This can teach her not to chew the treat so the game continues. When she eats the traet the game ends. It'll teach her that to bite down stops play.


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## strawberrypie

Hello!

I've been reading up about this recently- and apparently its really not a good idea to tell off you puppy for play biting.

The thing is, the puppy thinks he is playing with you... you tell him off.. he gets confused because he thinks he's playing! He doesn't know that biting you is hurting you. 

What apparently works is 3 things:

- The toy swap. When you are playing with him, and he bites you, exchange your hand for a toy and give him praise when he bites it, instead of biting you!
- Socialise with other puppies. Puppies normally play and bite each other, and when the other puppies don't appreciate his biting, he will get the message.
- When he bites you, make a high pitched noise and turn away and ignore him for a while. This is what other puppies do so it should let him know he has hurt you. 

I'm doing this with my puppy now... So we'll see how it goes!


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## rrlaura

Puppies are starting to look for dominance at that age that is what the whole playing thing is really about. Biting hands is better adressed early rather than later, and short 'no' or if he doesn't respond a quick neck bite (done with the hand shaped as a claw and what the mother will do if something is not acceptable) but this has to be done very quickly, left to long the pup will not understand what your doing it for. Energy behind all these commands is vital, you cannot be angry! Always remember shoulders back head held high, act like a leader and he will respond much better.
Done from experience, one very happy responsive puppy.


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## RAINYBOW

rrlaura said:


> Puppies are starting to look for dominance at that age that is what the whole playing thing is really about. Biting hands is better adressed early rather than later, and short 'no' or if he doesn't respond a quick neck bite (done with the hand shaped as a claw and what the mother will do if something is not acceptable) but this has to be done very quickly, left to long the pup will not understand what your doing it for. Energy behind all these commands is vital, you cannot be angry! Always remember shoulders back head held high, act like a leader and he will respond much better.
> Done from experience, one very happy responsive puppy.


I disagree with this approach for young puppies as i feel you could end up with a nervous head shy dog.

Remaining calm and assertive and showing the dog this behaviour is unacceptable can be achieved by removing either yourself from the room or the pup.

A large boisterous pup will see the "neck bite" (i am not even sure what this is ) as an invitation to play more and then where do you go from there


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## Midge1

Lets not forget or dismiss Positive reinforcement! It is a fundamental part of any behaviour shaping especially in young dogs. 

Simply ignoring or shouting or giving negative commands to _any_ dog, although appearing to give instant results, are not enough to shape behaviour in a positive or permanent way.

Yes ignore your pup whenever it tries to nip or bite you (sitting on your hands also helps) but remember to reward it once the nipping has stopped and it is calm. If your pup nips you while you are cuddling it, then simply stop cuddling it, and turn your entire body away from it, preferably do not use verbal commands and avoid eye contact. You will needs to have patience in abundance if this is to work but eventually you will see positive changes.


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## RAINYBOW

Midge1 said:


> Lets not forget or dismiss Positive reinforcement! It is a fundamental part of any behaviour shaping especially in young dogs.
> 
> Simply ignoring or shouting or giving negative commands to _any_ dog, although appearing to give instant results, are not enough to shape behaviour in a positive or permanent way.
> 
> Yes ignore your pup whenever it tries to nip or bite you (sitting on your hands also helps) but remember to reward it once the nipping has stopped and it is calm. If your pup nips you while you are cuddling it, then simply stop cuddling it, and turn your entire body away from it, preferably do not use verbal commands and avoid eye contact. You will needs to have patience in abundance if this is to work but eventually you will see positive changes.


Excellent point. It is so easy when you get a new pup to just ignore it when it is behaving and revel in a few minutes peace but you really must reinforce when it is being calm and well behaved 

i say it time and time again on here i can't recommend this book for all new puppy owners, good solid no nonsense advice 

The Perfect Puppy: Britain's Number One Puppy Care Book: Amazon.co.uk: Gwen Bailey: Books


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## rrlaura

RAINYBOW said:


> I disagree with this approach for young puppies as i feel you could end up with a nervous head shy dog.
> 
> Remaining calm and assertive and showing the dog this behaviour is unacceptable can be achieved by removing either yourself from the room or the pup.
> 
> A large boisterous pup will see the "neck bite" (i am not even sure what this is ) as an invitation to play more and then where do you go from there


It depends how you do all this, it has to be done at the right time, positive reinforcement is great and I use this but this is the way I have learnt by watching Ceaser Milan and my Canine behaviour course, and he is a very big puppy being a Rhodesian Ridgeback so this works for me, and very well at that, he is a very happy and obediant puppy is learning hand signals as opposed to words at a distance so we hardly have to say anything at all, he is asleep at my feat as we speak and shows no signs of head shy or being scared at all, he simply has leadership already and plays happy and walks like a dream, so thank-you for your comment and not to say others wont work with other dogs but I agree with my way and speak his language.
I re-trained a polo pony 2007 to a great chilled out pony by using the languages animals talk and worked off of just my energy and body language!......


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## rrlaura

RAINYBOW said:


> I disagree with this approach for young puppies as i feel you could end up with a nervous head shy dog.
> 
> Remaining calm and assertive and showing the dog this behaviour is unacceptable can be achieved by removing either yourself from the room or the pup.
> 
> A large boisterous pup will see the "neck bite" (i am not even sure what this is ) as an invitation to play more and then where do you go from there


Watch Ceaser Milan, calm assertive energy is vital with any animal, the neck bite does not give the impression of play, he sits and looks at me after and is wonderful, gives you so much pleasure to have a relationship with and animal that you both understand, I love it


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## Midge1

It is worth remembering that Ceaser Milan spends hours assessing and working with each individual case before practicing any of his techniques or asking the owner to engage in these training methods. So what we actually see on the TV is in fact a *very* edited version of the entire consultation.

Alarm bells always ring out in my head when I hear of anyone practicing techniques on dogs which have been learned from such a source, especially any methods which show the owner using force in any way..albeit gentle.

As no two dogs are the same this also applies to any training program. What works for one dog will not necessarily work for another. The method shown by Ceaser Milan _may_ in one dog may bring out the submissive whereas in another it may have the opposite effect.

As with any behaviour modification/training it is important to do your research and refer to an experienced behaviour consultant.


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## RAINYBOW

rrlaura said:


> It depends how you do all this, it has to be done at the right time, positive reinforcement is great and I use this but this is the way I have learnt by watching Ceaser Milan and my Canine behaviour course, and he is a very big puppy being a Rhodesian Ridgeback so this works for me, and very well at that, he is a very happy and obediant puppy is learning hand signals as opposed to words at a distance so we hardly have to say anything at all, he is asleep at my feat as we speak and shows no signs of head shy or being scared at all, he simply has leadership already and plays happy and walks like a dream, so thank-you for your comment and not to say others wont work with other dogs but I agree with my way and speak his language.
> I re-trained a polo pony 2007 to a great chilled out pony by using the languages animals talk and worked off of just my energy and body language!......


I just don't feel it is sensible to give this sort of advice to inexperienced owners on an internet site.

As I am sure you will agree it is a very specific method of discipline deliverred in a very specific way therefore done incorrectly could produce a nervous, head shy dog.

You yourself say you have watched caesar milan and done a course to enable you to practice this method. I just don't feel it is a form of training that can be simply described in text well enough for someone to administer it safely in a home environment.

Also i would be interested to know how this works with children in the house as when my dog was a pup most of his puppy mouthing was aimed at them , how to they assert their authority, would my 5 year old administer the "bite" to a feisty ridgeback 

I just don't get it


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## Midge1

RAINYBOW said:


> I just don't feel it is sensible to give this sort of advice to inexperienced owners on an internet site.
> 
> As I am sure you will agree it is a very specific method of discipline deliverred in a very specific way therefore done incorrectly could produce a nervous, head shy dog.
> 
> You yourself say you have watched caesar milan and done a course to enable you to practice this method. I just don't feel it is a form of training that can be simply described in text well enough for someone to administer it safely in a home environment.
> 
> Also i would be interested to know how this works with children in the house as when my dog was a pup most of his puppy mouthing was aimed at them , how to they assert their authority, would my 5 year old administer the "bite" to a feisty ridgeback
> 
> I just don't get it


Could not agree more! and My advice would be _*never*_ under any circumstances allow a young child to practice _*any*_ physical, hands on training to _any_ dog regardless of age.

There are far more suitable and proven methods in which children can engage in a positive way with a dog without the need to be put at risk.

Back to the original comment however, gently, gently is the way to go with your pup, use positive reinforcement to gain focus and response. *Ignore* *negative behaviour *. This method in my experience as a behaviour consultant has been proven to work time and time again not only with pups but with more mature dogs of all breeds.

At this stage in your pups development and given its young age, I would say that you do not really require a behaviourist. By using the gentle and reward based techniques I have mentioned you will be able to develop a close bond with your dog which will lead it through adulthood.

*As a behaviour consultant, I feel it is my duty to recommend that owners consult their vet prior to embarking on any training/ behaviour modification to rule out any medical reasons for changes in behaviour.
*


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## rrlaura

Hi,

I totally agree different things for different dogs definately, and yes Ceaser is edited so totally agree there, there is only so much you can write on these posts and I try my best to get it across 'that works for me' didn't say it worked for everyone. It is silly to assume a child doing a neck bite to a RR but I can't explain it all to you it's too complicated and more to do with how you are as a person. I was mearly giving 'my knowledge that works for me' I have worked with animals all my life and I know what works and what doesn't I totally agree with positive reinforcement it's not a one way street! but calm assertive energy? I would like to understand why you think this is the wrong approach? With any animal? Your're calm and assertive, how else can you be?

I am not inexperienced and do not want bad feeling on here but I see so many bad cases and on the street that really sadens me and just wish all animals happiness, and their owners.

Please don't put a technique 'down' before you have tried it.

We walked our 12 week old Rhodesian off lead in the middle of a big field today with rabbits, birds etc for 20 minutes and he never left our side, if that isn't a happy puppy and that well trained all ready then I don't know what else to say he's a dream!

Animals need leadership, without it they can be confused and stressed. 

Hope you find ways that work for you! Good luck!

Thanks


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## rrlaura

Midge1 said:


> Could not agree more! and My advice would be _*never*_ under any circumstances allow a young child to practice _*any*_ physical, hands on training to _any_ dog regardless of age.
> 
> There are far more suitable and proven methods in which children can engage in a positive way with a dog without the need to be put at risk.
> 
> Back to the original comment however, gently, gently is the way to go with your pup, use positive reinforcement to gain focus and response. *Ignore* *negative behaviour *. This method in my experience as a behaviour consultant has been proven to work time and time again not only with pups but with more mature dogs of all breeds.
> 
> At this stage in your pups development and given its young age, I would say that you do not really require a behaviourist. By using the gentle and reward based techniques I have mentioned you will be able to develop a close bond with your dog which will lead it through adulthood.
> 
> *As a behaviour consultant, I feel it is my duty to recommend that owners consult their vet prior to embarking on any training/ behaviour modification to rule out any medical reasons for changes in behaviour.
> *


Totally agree with all you say, like I said before there are different ways that work for different people. I never use negative 'energy'. You seem to explain it a bit clearer
Thanks


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## rrlaura

RAINYBOW said:


> I just don't feel it is sensible to give this sort of advice to inexperienced owners on an internet site.
> 
> As I am sure you will agree it is a very specific method of discipline deliverred in a very specific way therefore done incorrectly could produce a nervous, head shy dog.
> 
> You yourself say you have watched caesar milan and done a course to enable you to practice this method. I just don't feel it is a form of training that can be simply described in text well enough for someone to administer it safely in a home environment.
> 
> Also i would be interested to know how this works with children in the house as when my dog was a pup most of his puppy mouthing was aimed at them , how to they assert their authority, would my 5 year old administer the "bite" to a feisty ridgeback
> 
> I just don't get it


Hi I know I am sorry I guess when you know something you just assume people will get it when you explain it, or try to! Try the Ceaser Milan books they are really great, it may give you a better idea to what I am trying to explain. Don't give up hope it will work out


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## RAINYBOW

rrlaura said:


> Hi I know I am sorry I guess when you know something you just assume people will get it when you explain it, or try to! Try the Ceaser Milan books they are really great, it may give you a better idea to what I am trying to explain. Don't give up hope it will work out




We are fine now thanks, managed to work through it in the end with lots of consistency and the odd nervous breakdown  but i did find alot of the "Alpha" based theories fell apart in a home with children present.

I read Jan Fennel and liked her ideas but just couldn't translate them into my home.

I really liked The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey,


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## rrlaura

Hey, hope this helps, Copied and pasted from Ceaser Website:

Correct and follow through! Tell your dog to stop barking using a look, a sound, or a physical correction. But don't stop there. Your dog may pause and then go right back to what he was doing. His body relaxed, but his brain was still on alert. Be patient. Wait until your dog completely submits before you go back to what you were doing. 

Make sure you are calm! Constant barking can be irritating, but you won't be able to correct the problem if you are frustrated. Animals don't follow unbalanced leaders. In fact, your dog will mirror your energy. If you're frustrated, he will be, too! And barking is a great release for that frustrated energy. Take a moment to curb your own internal barking first.

Stake your claim! Is your dog barking over and over again at the same object, person, situation, or place? Then you need to step up and claim that stimulus as your own. Use your body, your mind, and your calm-assertive energy to create an invisible wall that your dog is not allowed to cross. Do it with 100% dedication and focus, and the results may surprise you.

Give your dog more challenges! Excessive barking is often the result of pent-up energy. If this is the case, the solution is simple: release that energy in more productive ways. Does your dog receive a daily walk? Can you make the walk more challenging with a bicycle, a backpack, or by walking on an incline? Can you provide more mental challenges, such as herding, agility training, or simple obedience games? There are many, many ways to increase the challenges in your dog's life. Find one that you enjoy that your dog can participate in safely.

Get professional help. When you brought this dog into your life, you made a commitment to provide the care he needs. This includes calling in a canine professional to help him cope with a behavior issue. Get tips for finding the right professional.


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## rrlaura

RAINYBOW said:


> We are fine now thanks, managed to work through it in the end with lots of consistency and the odd nervous breakdown  but i did find alot of the "Alpha" based theories fell apart in a home with children present.
> 
> I read Jan Fennel and liked her ideas but just couldn't translate them into my home.
> 
> I really liked The Perfect Puppy by Gwen Bailey,


I read Jan Fennel it was ok but didn't really get very far with it some of it I just couldn't relate to at all. Hope the post helps.


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## lemmsy

Oh Lordy :mad2:


rrlaura said:


> Puppies are starting to look for dominance at that age that is what the whole playing thing is really about.


Erm... at 11 weeks old :shocked:

I seriously do not think that Mr Milan's jab technique is a good one at all!
Very likely to make a nervous puppy absolutely petrified of being handled and even the most confident pup confused.

Yes you need to teach the pup that biting isn't ok but you certainly don't need to neck jab them!!! That's not acceptable in my book nor is it necesary.

With young pups the best policy IMO is reward the good, ignore or withdraw your attention from the bad. 
With a nipping puppy I would either say "Enough" and turn my heel on them and walk away. After all what they crave most is your attention. 
Or I would have them on a house lead and put them in time out for 10 seconds (dog put into another room with the lead trapped in the door frame so that you are holding it on the other side). I would only use time out if turning my back on the dog and walking away had made the dog more excited and they followed and continued to nip your legs say...


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## Colliepoodle

> We walked our 12 week old Rhodesian off lead in the middle of a big field today with rabbits, birds etc for 20 minutes and he never left our side, if that isn't a happy puppy and that well trained all ready then I don't know what else to say he's a dream!


LOL! Yes, most young puppies will stick close to their people to start with... however, I wouldn't hurry to call that "well trained" just yet


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## rrlaura

Colliepoodle said:


> LOL! Yes, most young puppies will stick close to their people to start with... however, I wouldn't hurry to call that "well trained" just yet


Positive thinking, positive thinking! lol!


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## rrlaura

lemmsy said:


> Oh Lordy :mad2:
> 
> Erm... at 11 weeks old :shocked:
> 
> I seriously do not think that Mr Milan's jab technique is a good one at all!
> Very likely to make a nervous puppy absolutely petrified of being handled and even the most confident pup confused.
> 
> Yes you need to teach the pup that biting isn't ok but you certainly don't need to neck jab them!!! That's not acceptable in my book nor is it necesary.
> 
> With young pups the best policy IMO is reward the good, ignore or withdraw your attention from the bad.
> With a nipping puppy I would either say "Enough" and turn my heel on them and walk away. After all what they crave most is your attention.
> Or I would have them on a house lead and put them in time out for 10 seconds (dog put into another room with the lead trapped in the door frame so that you are holding it on the other side). I would only use time out if turning my back on the dog and walking away had made the dog more excited and they followed and continued to nip your legs say...


Oh ok, I haven't the energy to explain anymore, it isn't as vicious as it sounds at all, I would never hurt an animal! and my approach to communicating and 'training' (although I don't like that word as it isn't usually using animal language, it's what humans invented) has worked for 15 years and have very loyal animals around me, no head shy!, I no longer have the time to explain myself. Just remember there are other ways to investigate, have an open mind. If you watch Ceaser you'll understand.
I have very strong feelings about how animals are treated, that is all.
Goodbye.


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## rrlaura

rrlaura said:


> Oh ok, I haven't the energy to explain anymore, it isn't as vicious as it sounds at all, I would never hurt an animal! and my approach to communicating and 'training' (although I don't like that word as it isn't usually using animal language, it's what humans invented) has worked for 15 years and have very loyal animals around me, no head shy!, I no longer have the time to explain myself. Just remember there are other ways to investigate, have an open mind. If you watch Ceaser you'll understand.
> I have very strong feelings about how animals are treated, that is all.
> Goodbye.


Just a little added extra, I thought these things need to be done instantly, having the lead through the door, by the time you've done that wouldn't it be too late and a little confusing? Will have to try that one, sounds interesting. and I ignore all the time he barked, when he bit and a proper bite is when I adressed it!
I work with animal behaviour, so what it would be like in the wild, ok some things need to change but overall I feel it's the best way.
Thanks for all your useful adivce!


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## SEVEN_PETS

rrlaura said:


> Oh ok, I haven't the energy to explain anymore, it isn't as vicious as it sounds at all, I would never hurt an animal! and my approach to communicating and 'training' (although I don't like that word as it isn't usually using animal language, it's what humans invented) has worked for 15 years and have very loyal animals around me, no head shy!, I no longer have the time to explain myself. Just remember there are other ways to investigate, have an open mind. If you watch Ceaser you'll understand.
> I have very strong feelings about how animals are treated, that is all.
> Goodbye.


i disagree with ceaser totally, but we are not going to turn this thread into a ceaser debate. I think it's best to just ignore, remove yourself from the room, and then when he's calmed down, quietly praise and carry on with what you were doing. neck jabbing on a young pup and for biting is not appropriate. will most likely cause the dog to become aggressive to your hands and bite you even more. also dogs know we are not other dogs, we are humans and they know that. if you act like a dog, they'll get confused and wonder what the hell you're doing.


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## rrlaura

Oh ok......


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## Midge1

SEVEN_PETS said:


> i disagree with ceaser totally, but we are not going to turn this thread into a ceaser debate. I think it's best to just ignore, remove yourself from the room, and then when he's calmed down, quietly praise and carry on with what you were doing. neck jabbing on a young pup and for biting is not appropriate. will most likely cause the dog to become aggressive to your hands and bite you even more. also dogs know we are not other dogs, we are humans and they know that. if you act like a dog, they'll get confused and wonder what the hell you're doing.


Hi  I cant agree that dogs see us as humans . This is why I am forever telling owners to "think dog" not human. By acting human we just confuse our dog. Of course we have to modify our behaviour in many ways for obvious reasons, however by adopting basic dog behaviour we are able to communicate with our dogs in a way they understand. Because we have the advantage of pre meditated thought we are able to defuse and avoid any unnecessary clashes between us and our dogs.

Re: the Ceaser debate, I do agree that his methods do work, and feel that in these times where more and more powerful breeds are being kept by inexperienced owners it is vital that an element of control is taught by an experienced and knowledgeable behaviour expert,. However it is also important to remember that no two dogs will be the same. This is why I feel it is vital that a full assessment is carried out on each individual dog prior to using techniques such as those of Ceaser


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## RAINYBOW

Midge1 said:


> Hi  I cant agree that dogs see us as humans . This is why I am forever telling owners to "think dog" not human. By acting human we just confuse our dog. Of course we have to modify our behaviour in many ways for obvious reasons, however by adopting basic dog behaviour we are able to communicate with our dogs in a way they understand. Because we have the advantage of pre meditated thought we are able to defuse and avoid any unnecessary clashes between us and our dogs.
> 
> Re: the Ceaser debate, I do agree that his methods do work, and feel that in these times where more and more powerful breeds are being kept by inexperienced owners it is vital that an element of control is taught by an experienced and knowledgeable behaviour expert,. However it is also important to remember that no two dogs will be the same. This is why I feel it is vital that a full assessment is carried out on each individual dog prior to using techniques such as those of Ceaser


Good post


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## rrlaura

Thank-you!

If someone can control 37 dogs like that then he has to be doing something right!

Fab post.


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## Maggie321

we have eactly the same problem with our 12 week old cocker. if we shout 'no!' to the biting she get totally over excited and dashes about and bites harder - ideas please


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## kirstyn

We too are having huge problems with our springer - tried the "firm NO" and it seems to make her worse, we have moved to crate training and she is ok in the crate, sleeping through the night, not pining, eating, drinking and not messing in her space, I then take her for a walk out in the garden (she has not had her 2nd jabs yet so must be in the garden), she does her business fine, then tears round and winds herself up into a frenzy, comes back in and bites the kids and me, all the NO's in the world are not helping and seem to making her even more aggressive. Have just put her in the utility room for 10minutes as she was going beserk with the biting and she has calmed down but how d i stop her getting to that point, I dont want to keep excluding her. Will try the frozen stuff for her teeth but she seems to be doing it as aggressive play rather than to soothe her gums, her heartbeat is racing, its like she is on a hunt! 


Thanksfor any advice you can give

Kirsty


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## twinkleuk1969

Hi there, you have explained exactlly what my 10 week old cocker is doing yes please can we have some help here


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## smokeybear

The Bite Stops Here by Dr Ian Dunbar
http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/teachingbiteinhibition.pdf
http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/biteinhibitionfuzzyterm.pdf
http://www.apbc.org.uk/system/files...t_1_Puppies_-_Mouthing_and_biting_low_res.pdf


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## RAINYBOW

twinkleuk1969 said:


> Hi there, you have explained exactlly what my 10 week old cocker is doing yes please can we have some help here


My cocker was an absolute bugger for mouthing. It is only ssince seeing other pups i have realised just how bad he was.

There is no magic overnight fix and it could go on a few weeks yet as it really is an age and stage thing. The only way IMO is a consistent and persistent approach. We used the time out method in the end and just excluded Oscar from the room for a few minutes when he became too much. Over time he learnt that this behaviour just got him ignored.

Worth bearing in mind puppies can be extra mouthy when over tired, over stimulated or need to toilet


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## Clarkie1

I too am experiencing biting problems with my puppy. He is 3 months old. 
I have tried reprimanding then blanking him for a moment, Putting my hand sideways into his mouth. He gets plenty of time with chewing toys but I can't get anywhere with him when it comes to nipping me. Luckily he has not drawn blood yet but it's probably only a matter of time before he does! 
Is there anything else I can do?


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## Chiky490

My 10 week old springer spaniel does the crazy half hour thing when you try to say No to his painful biting and exciteable barking. Turning my back on him makes him worse, walking away makes him worse and leaving the room works for a very short time. I've found that the only think that calms him down and takes his attention away from my hands and feet is to bring him onto my lap with one of his blankets and give him a stag antler chew toy. You can tell he really enjoy it, evening getting it as far to the back of his teeth as possible. It makes a huge difference to his mood; I definitely believe it relieves his teething aches. Oh and ice and frozen material toys work we'll too.


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