# How do I get my puppy to sleep through the night?



## ncr182 (May 20, 2014)

Hello just wondered if anyone had any advice for a very tired lady this morning;

We have recently homed a lovely golden labradoodle. 
she has been with us for 3 weeks and is already doing great in lots of areas, she is house trained, we have taken her to puppy socials where she is great with other dogs, puppy training where she is picking up lots of new commands and tricks
She is also very loving and great with people

however we seem to have got ourself in a predicament. she sleeps in a closed crate at night, she goes in fine we don't hear a peep, then each morning she wakes up barking anywhere between 3.30am and 5.30am to go out to poop. Myself and my partner would then allow her to sleep in the living room with us as she barks and cries when she goes back in her crate waking
the neighbours. as time has gone on and the lack of sleep from the uncomfy sofa has continued,we have realised this can't continue. I realise it is our fault by staying with her. I just wondered if anyone had any advice of how to get her into the habit of going back in her crate after toileting without waking the whole street

Many thanks. Natalie


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

_*Drugs*_

Just kidding.  There are lots of things that can help, but U don't mention just how old the pup is -
12-WO? 4-MO? What?

Pups are more dependent the younger they are; my 1st suggestion, whatever her age may be now,
is to move the crate into Ur bedroom. No, it's not going to be forever - but for now, replace the bedside
night-table with the pup's crate, so she's within arm's reach of Ur side of the bed. That way, *rather than 
bark* to get someone up to take her out to potty, YOU - yes, U! - set an alarm to wake-up before 
she does, so that she's not distressed & in urgent need, & U are already set for the trip - have a coat
or robe laid out, shoes or slippers at the ready, TREATS in the robe / coat pocket, leash nearby, etc.

i'd suggest 3-AM every night, for the near future - & no, again it's not forever. :001_smile:

more later... i have to pick up a delivery, sorry. 
.
.


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## ncr182 (May 20, 2014)

She is 13 weeks
I have read lots of places about brining the crate upstairs. 
what is the process of her going back downstairs and when does that process start? willing to give it a go if it means we get more sleep


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## Buzzard (Aug 10, 2012)

In a situation like this I would have the crate in your bedroom. If the barking is an issue for neighbours and she is not settling on her own that would be the better option. In time you could try and move the crate further away from your room eventually relocating it in the most desirable place. My last dog was difficult at night time too, it did sort itself out but he was probably about 5 months old. Good luck.


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## catseyes (Sep 10, 2010)

Welcome to the world of puppies lol, mine is 15 weeks and we are still on the sofa, he hated the crate and even being shut in the kitchen would have diarhea with stress, we cant have him in the bedroom its way too warm for a newfoundland and he loves sleeping on the cool kitchen tiles just freaks out if the baby gate shuts.

So when he goes to sleep about 10pm we shut him in and he will cry somewhere bewtween 1am and 3am so then its out for a wee and one of us will then stay on the sofa so he can have run of the lounge and kitchen, he will still take himself off to the kitchen but at least we have eyes on him should he start chewing something he shouldnt be!

I would try the crate in the bedroom we have done that with previous pups and its worked great but with my current one he has issues lol!!!


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## Wiz201 (Jun 13, 2012)

Our cockapoo has slept separate in a crate from day 1. I would keep the crate in the kitchen and let the pup out to the toilet, but try and keep as quiet as possible with little interaction, and just put the pup back in the crate without speaking. This should get better; if the neighbours complain, just explain its a new puppy in training.


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## feathered bird lover (May 23, 2011)

has been many years since we had a pup in the home. 

what i used to do with my dog patch alsationxcollie was wrap an ticking clock in a soft blanket and put it under his soft dog blanket that he slept on in his dog bed, the ticking clock seemed to settle him down, you could always give that a try,


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

ncr182 said:


> She's 13-WO.


Wow! - she's only had sphincter muscles on bladder & bowel that work for *1 week.*
Try to keep her error-free in housetraining by not exceeding her minimal potty-schedule frequency -
at 13-WO, she's 3-MO, which translates to *3* [age in mos]* + 1 = 4* [max hrs between toilet trips].

That rule doesn't include TRIGGERS:
- waking from a nap
- after active play
- after an exciting event [meet another dog, a visitor...]
- after a meal, or a large drink

Triggers add another potty-trip, immediately after they occur; pups usually pee within 5 to 10-mins
after eating a meal, & there's pressure on the bowel from a full stomach, plus GI-propulsion speeds up,
resulting in a bowel movement about 20 to 30-mins after the meal. [Handy to know.  ]


ncr182 said:


> ...
> what's the process of her [return] downstairs, & when does that... start?
> willing to [try], if it means we get more sleep.


Depends upon the pup; BY approx 15 to 16-WO, Puppy will be dry & able to hold a BM thru the night,
so the 3-AM potty trips can stop. [Obviously, if U are waking to a poopy or wet pup, resume them!...
but 15 to 16-WO overnights clean & dry are typical.]

DAYTIMES are tougher, since obviously all those trigger events happen when U [& the pup] are awake.
U don't feed a pup breakfast or dinner at 2-AM, most ppl don't have visitors between midnight & 6-AM, etc.
So daytimes can take approx 6-MOs to get the puppy able to "hold it" for an 8-Hr period, such as one's
work shift.

Teenaged dogs who weigh more than 20# can usually handle a 9-hr period solo, without a potty trip.

TOY-sized dogs, especially itty-bitty ones, have rapid metabolisms & need more frequent potty-trips;
it's not fair to ask a 5# Chihuahua to WAIT for a 9 or 10-hour day, with an 8-hr shift plus a commute,
to finally empty their aching bladder!... so for tinies, they need alternative locations, such as a potty-pad,
or the walk-in shower as a toilet when U aren't home.
.
.


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## tshepherd (Mar 30, 2011)

I would not bring the cage in the bedroom. It will then cause problems when you want to move her out. Can you not leave her in the kitchen with the crate door open and lay down a puppy pad? If she cries...just leave her. You must start as you mean to go on. My sister-in-law made thw big mistake of sleeping on the sofa and is still there 2 years later!


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## nicl03 (Aug 9, 2013)

I used to freeze mylo's kong with lots of nice treats then when he would whine early 
which he did and scratch at the crate i used to give him the kong would distract him and keep him busy until a suitable time to wake up.


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## Fleur (Jul 19, 2008)

tshepherd said:


> I would not bring the cage in the bedroom. It will then cause problems when you want to move her out. Can you not leave her in the kitchen with the crate door open and lay down a puppy pad? If she cries...just leave her. You must start as you mean to go on. My sister-in-law made thw big mistake of sleeping on the sofa and is still there 2 years later!


All 3 of my dogs spent time in my room 2 puppies and one older rescue - I've never had a problem with moving them once they were able to self settle 

I didn't want our first dog in our bedroom and was getting upset that he was crying/messing in his bed downstairs but I didn't know what to do about it.
I asked our dog trainer at puppy class and she simply asked me where my human babies had slept at first? I answered in my room but I don't want the dog to get into the habit of sleeping in our room. she asked me where my kids slept now? I answered in their bedrooms And she simply said there you go then :thumbsup:

Personally I've always had the crate next to my bed - if needed I can put my fingers through the bars and give a little 'shush' - I hear them as soon as they wake up and can take them straight outside for a toilet break, no fuss, no talking, no eye contact Just a quiet good boy/girl when they perform and then straight back to bed.
Once they could self settle and 'hold' all night I moved the crate to the foot of my bed where they could hear me but not see me - if they continued to self settle and 'hold' then I moved their crates downstairs to the lounge where they have slept since with out a problem - the oldest dog in now over 8 years old and no issues with allowing him to occasionally come up to my bed when hubby is away he'll happily return to his bed down stairs when hubby is home.


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## tshepherd (Mar 30, 2011)

I'm glad bringing your puppy into your bedroom worked for you. I know several dog owners where they did this and found it difficult to break. I feel you must train the puppy to work around what you want right from day one. Yes if you want them in your room, that's fine. I do not. This also makes it difficult when they have to be left alone during the day, causing further seperation anxiety.


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## Poundingpaws (Nov 28, 2012)

IME crating a puppy in the bedroom has not caused separation anxiety and it has been easy to relocate the crate once the pup is older. 

I would never do any differently, no night time accidents or distress.


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## ncr182 (May 20, 2014)

We have moved the pup into our bedroom and it has been great. she sleeps in her bed until whenever we decide to get up. She has had no accidents and is very content being near us. 
We will eventually move her bed on to the landing and that is where she will stay. We have always allowed her upstairs so it's not really a big deal. 

Thank you to everyone for being so helpful and giving lots of great advice. Natalie


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