# how long can I leave a Huskador home alone for?



## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

I was wondering how long a huskador (labrador x husky) could be left at home during the day.
it would only be on its own for three days a week and i come home for half an hour every lunch. The dog would be left on its own for a max time of three hours. 
In the best interests of the dog, would this be fair on it and does it matter if it is left with cats????

any ideas would be great!


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## PoisonGirl (Oct 24, 2008)

3 hours is fine for an older dog but not for a puppy so you would need to organise someone to come in and let it out in between for the loo.

husky being a high prey drive dog, never leave it alone with your cats in case instinct kicks in and it decides to chase them as huskys can kill cats easily


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## tashi (Dec 5, 2007)

polkinghrnr said:


> I was wondering how long a huskador (labrador x husky) could be left at home during the day.
> it would only be on its own for three days a week and i come home for half an hour every lunch. The dog would be left on its own for a max time of three hours.
> In the best interests of the dog, would this be fair on it and does it matter if it is left with cats????
> 
> any ideas would be great!


not something I would do, half an hour is simply not long enough to be able to feed, toilet and see to the needs of a dog, as for being left with cats, without knowing the dog and how the cats will react to the dog - who knows. You have a high drive in the husky and the lab is also a dog that needs exercise and time spent with them.


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## EmCHammer (Dec 28, 2009)

I would say it would depend on the age of the dog, if it is happy being left, and what routines you have; i.e. for me two lots of three hours a day my dogs would be happy with a break in the middle three days a week; however...

they are aged 6 and 7; we have had them both since they were alot younger and the time they can be left has been gradually increased over the years so they are happy with this; not sure how they would have managed 'in at the deep end' and when younger exuberant dogs. They def need a break in the middle for peeing etc.

They ALWAYS have an hours walk before being left, and another walk in the evening and the rest of the time is with us, i.e we don't go out again.

probably also helps that there are two of them as company for eachother. We leave them with Kongs and the telly on. They also have full access to the house, would never crate for that long or leave for long shut in one room (they might have been to start with when I didn't want to give them both unrestricted unsupervised access to eachother when the second dog came, and also when I knew they wouldn't chew/ cry etc; although whilst I was discovering that they were only left for 5 mins to start and builded up gradually.

As for cats I don't know would depend on the individual; would never leave two new animals alone together unsupervised until you were very confident in both of them to be alone together and no fights/ chases etc ensued.


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

We would be getting the dog in the holidays when it`s about 1 so it would get a good month with us being there all the tie would these make things any easier, taking it on regular walks is not a problem as we live in dog walking country


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## Sleeping_Lion (Mar 19, 2009)

Are you experienced dog owners? I only ask, as knowing the Labrador half of this mix, they can be quite mouthy, depending on their background. I'd imagine if they took on the more difficult aspects of each breed, it could be quite a difficult one to handle, particularly if it's been messed up by anyone else previously.


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

Depends on the dog imo. Not a good set up for a puppy but for an adult dog with no seperation issues it could work.


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

had a labrador , the criteria of getting a new dog is that it is a cross breed because of heart problems in the last dog. we are looking at possible crosses at the moment


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## Sleeping_Lion (Mar 19, 2009)

You do know there's no guarantee of no heart issues with a cross breed? Many dogs carry the same genetic problems, and there's the same issue with many breeders not health testing dogs for cross breeds, as there is for pedigree dogs. 

I've done a thread in the breeding section that includes the health tests I've done on my Labradors, I'd want to see hips, elbows, gPRA and a current clear BVA eye cert but I very much doubt you'll find that.


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

polkinghrnr said:


> had a labrador , the criteria of getting a new dog is that it is a cross breed because of heart problems in the last dog. we are looking at possible crosses at the moment


A cross is no guarantee of good health though. You would be wise to look at a dog from health - tested parents whether pure or cross bred.

ETA: SL beat me to it with a much better post!


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

we would be getting the dog from huskpy, a reliable local breeder


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

we would be getting the dog from a local breeder so we can check out the dogs and be sure theyy have been treated well


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## Sleeping_Lion (Mar 19, 2009)

polkinghrnr said:


> we would be getting the dog from huskpy, a reliable local breeder


Please research thoroughly, people can be nice, can seem as if they are *in it* for the right reasons, and yet they are not producing pups for the right reasons at all. Health testing is a must, but it should be done with research, so that breeders can take the right decisions to try and produce happy, healthy pups. Health testing isn't a guarantee, but it's valuable information.

I've spent over five years researching one litter, and have spent more than I'd care to mention health testing, will be travelling to Scotland to use the dog I think is right for what I want out of a litter. Why is your local friend breeding? I aim to produce happy, healthy pups, and have done my utmost by health testing, monitoring my breeding stock, spaying when I felt it wasn't right to use her half sister, and will sell all pups under contract so that they don't end up in rescue.

I hope I'm going about it the right way, I have good friends who I turn to for advice and several mentors. The only reason I'm going ahead is to keep a bitch pup back for myself (maybe possibly one more if I feel I have time and/or there's a pup in there that's another keeper).

To be incredibly honest with you, you're as likely to be able to rehome a dog from rescue that won't have any health problems, than many breeders who don't bother to health test. It's this sort of breeder that's adding to the rescue crisis, where once they're sold, and out of sight, then they're off their conscience too. That *might* be different as the breeder you've sourced is local, but you still need to be more than 100% happy with them. Apologies if that sounds harsh in any way, it's not meant to be, just that so many people *think* they've done enough research, and buy for a certain reason, and then find out they've been led up the garden path. I could very well have come a cropper when I first bought a puppy, fortunately, I didn't, but I'm very aware of how badly wrong it could have gone


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## tashi (Dec 5, 2007)

Do they have the relative health tests and if they are a reliable breeder WHY is this one nearly a year ?? Why have they decided to move it on ?? 

Husky should have various health tests and sleeping lion has listed the health tests on the lab. Friend of mine had an accidental mating between his lab bitch and a male dachshund, he actually didn't know until the puppy arrived both parents were health tested clear and good hip scores etc BUT puppy had various health problems which neither of the parents had shown any problem of, but the mixing of the various genes brought out the 'shadows' poor girl had epilepsy, cataracts, ocd and hip displaysia.

All I can say is 'Buyer beware'


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## shetlandlover (Dec 6, 2011)

There seems to be a HUGE misconception that pedigree dogs are unhealthy but a cross of two pedigree dogs are healthy, even un tested.

The reality of it is any dog cross or pedigree has a risk of having health problems if it comes from untested parents. 

My cross breed Scorcher (a gsd cross border collie) has hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia and a genetic anal condition. She is very unhealthy.

My 3 pedigree's have had no genetic issues. 

As long as you go to a breeder who health tests and truly cares for the breed you wont go far wrong. When you start going to back yard breeders who slap two dogs together you get issues.


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## EmCHammer (Dec 28, 2009)

With regard to the being left, its an excellent idea to have time off when the new dog arrives so you can get them used to yourselves and your routines building up slowly so that its not a complete shock when you go back to work.

I am a volunteer for a rescue and wondered if you would consider a adult rescue dog - I often recommend to people who are workers to look for a dog with a known history of being OK of being left which can mean you are greatly minimising the potential for seperation anxiety issues.

Different rescues do have different policies with regard to rehoming to workers having said that but with a little potential perseverance you should find one.


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

the old labrador wasn`t left at home for long at all, can labs be left for long periods of time and if they can`t are there any cross breeds that could be?


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## tashi (Dec 5, 2007)

Why don't you speak to EmCHammer who posted above you, looks like the rescue she helps with may have something that would suit you, at least with the rescues they have had the dogs in and can assess what they are like with different issues and perhaps you can have them to see how they cope at home. 

There are plenty of dogs in rescue at the moment there must be one out there to suit your needs.


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

polkinghrnr said:


> had a labrador , the criteria of getting a new dog is that it is a cross breed because of heart problems in the last dog. we are looking at possible crosses at the moment


 Why would you think the risks would be any lower with a cross-breed? 

They can be just as unhealthy (and often unhealthier because frequently - the parents are not un-health-tested).

Both breeders can be affected by Hip Dysplasia and eye problems (Hereditary Cataracts and g-PRA) - so you would be needing to ensure both parents are hipscored and have current clear eye certificates and that one parent is genetically clear for g-PRA).

Labradors are typically a very healthy breed - sometimes it will feel like you hear more about the negative side of things, but this is because they outnumber the next closest breed by 2 to 1.

Providing you buy a pedigree dog responsibly and do your research beforehand, the risks of something bad happening again are low.

You will find it MUCH easier to find pedigrees from health-tested parents than you will cross-breeds - but whichever way you go - then you should have the same criteria - i.e. knowing what health-tests are required for each parent breed and that they've been done.

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With regards to leaving a pup - whilst I work from home, I always raise my pups as if I am working outside the home - I start off by letting them out half hourly and then build up from there and get them used to being left.

There is nothing worse than spending a long period of time at home with a pup and then expecting it to be OK when left - you need to build it up - and think carefully if half an hour is all you are able to spend with it during the day three days a week.

Don't forget also, that a young puppy will need feeding 4 times a day, reducing to three times daily at around 12 weeks.

What about the possibility of using a dog walke / sitterr? Also - puppies need to have their exercise built up - 5 minutes on-lead exercise per month of their age up to 12 months - then you can build up from there to whatever suits both you and the dog.

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Think very carefully about your reasoning for wanting a cross-breed - you've been unlucky - but the problems your dog encountered are not common in the breed and it's easier to find pedigree pups from health-tested parents.


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## Sleeping_Lion (Mar 19, 2009)

When I first bought Indie, I was working full time, and had to leave her for several hours at a time. She coped absolutely fine, most breeds can be left for a few hours at least, some are more prone to separation anxiety than others, off the top of my head, I'd guess at border collies and german shepherds. 

Swarthy by the way, is one of the people within the Labrador breed, I turn to for information relating to pedigrees and health. Very often, if I'm asked to help find a pup from a good litter of Labs, I give her a shout, simply because her knowledge is quite considerable, and we've always managed to point people in the right direction. 

I'd say heart problems in a Labrador must be fairly unheard of, I'd associate it more with spaniel type breeds personally, and have heard of pups having heart murmurs regularly only to grow out of them as they grow up.


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## SpringerHusky (Nov 6, 2008)

Huskies are awful for being left prone to destruction and also woulden't be leaving one with a cat alone, x or not.

Personally just stick to a health tested lab or go to a rescue.

I'm not against x breeding but labs and sibes are an odd combo imo so someone breeding them probarlley is not considering the two traits of the breed or health so i'd pass on the breeder you've found unless they have don health testing.


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

I probably worded it wrong, The dog wouldn`t get only half an hour a day , It only be on it`s own in the morning from 9 to 1 then after lunch it would be on its own untill 3 then the rest of the time we will be home.
Now it has been made very clear there is no problem with pedigree dogs (woops! I know now!) its just picking the right breed that can be left for 2 hours or so. it will most probably be a lab.


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## Sleeping_Lion (Mar 19, 2009)

polkinghrnr said:


> I probably worded it wrong, The dog wouldn`t get only half an hour a day , It only be on it`s own in the morning from 9 to 1 then after lunch it would be on its own untill 3 then the rest of the time we will be home.
> Now it has been made very clear there is no problem with pedigree dogs (woops! I know now!) its just picking the right breed that can be left for 2 hours or so. it will most probably be a lab.


If you want any help, please give me a shout, I'm happy to look over any prospective litters and giving you an honest opinion. If you tell me where abouts in the country you are, and when you're looking for a pup, then I can hopefully help you find a good breeder.

And thank you for taking the replies in the sentiment they're meant, a lot of folk take umbridge to having honest replies about health and breeding, simply because it isn't what they want to hear. The simple fact is, no-one on here, or pretty much no-one that is, would want to see someone buy a pup from poor breeders for the wrong reason, whether or not the breeders themselves are aware of the problems they may be producing.


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## Polimba (Nov 23, 2009)

polkinghrnr said:


> I probably worded it wrong, The dog wouldn`t get only half an hour a day , It only be on it`s own in the morning from 9 to 1 then after lunch it would be on its own untill 3 then the rest of the time we will be home.
> Now it has been made very clear there is no problem with pedigree dogs (woops! I know now!) its just picking the right breed that can be left for 2 hours or so. it will most probably be a lab.


I think as well as breed it also depends on the dog. We had our Ridgeback from 8 weeks and at first he was left 3 hours at a time, no problem. Maybe an older dog that can be left would suit you. I'm sure there is a lab rescue group who could help :thumbup1:


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

thanks for all your help every one , i`ve got a lot of thinking to do now! 


does anyone have a lab that they leave for 3+ hours? got any advice?


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## Sleeping_Lion (Mar 19, 2009)

I regularly leave mine for longer than 3 hours, I crate one of them, the other is fine.


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

polkinghrnr said:


> thanks for all your help every one , i`ve got a lot of thinking to do now!
> 
> does anyone have a lab that they leave for 3+ hours? got any advice?


Mine are left occasionally for around 4 hours (and very rarely slightly longer) - but these times are rare because I work from home and if I have to work away, my OH tends to do half days - on the days he can't (about once a month) he comes home at lunchtime to feed them and they are absolutely fine  (Also - my eldest is now 9 and my youngest 15 months)

If you are going for a pup - then it's good to build up the time you leave them - because even if it's not common practice, you need to be confident that the dog can cope alone if needs be.

I made the fatal mistake of not raising one of mine as if I worked outside the home, then when I did have to leave her we did get some separation anxiety - the little so-so used to run rings around my dog sitter / walker  she's fine now, but it's not a mistake I would make again.

It's not healthy to leave dogs for long periods, but in the same breath, it's not healthy to be with them all the time either.

The periods you are talking about should be fine if you build up to it gradually - if it was me, I would be trying to get someone in mid morning for the first few months at least

When we got our eldest I used to work from home at least one day a week, the other days - I used to leave around 8am, my daughter at 830 - my dad used to come to the house at around 10 (and was frequently there for a large part of the day) - then my teenage daughter (and half the school it seemed) used to come home around 1230 and then back again at 330 (we lived next door to the school).

When my eldest was about 6 months my daughter was rushed into hospital and we had no option but to leave her for much longer periods with literally flying visits in and out during the day and night - and apart from a few toilet accidents she was absolutely fine - we were far more bothered than she was.

Advice - a lot depends on the individual dog - I ALWAYS crate train now - some people see them as prisons - but they can be made nice and cosy - my oldies got the hump something terrible when we took down all the empty crates  They also ensure that both the pup and your house are safe whilst you are away.

Lots of people used stuffed Kongs to keep pups amused when they are out - I tend to find mine sleep.

The age you de-crate depends entirely on the dog - my two and three year old are still crated at night and when we are out - whereas my 15 month old is de-crated apart from when the girls are in season.

If you are not comfortable using a crate, then you need to think through if you realistically have a safe and secure haven to leave pup - my friend thought she did - boy was she wrong - he wrecked the place and used to be able to get through her serving hatch into the rest of the house  She eventually decided to crate him, but it was too late by then, he was too used to his freedom and managed to smash his jaw trying to get out of the crate

Always easier to crate train and de-crate than not use them and then introduce it afterwards.

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If you are getting a pup, please be honest with the breeder about your working arrangements - some breeders won't home to full-time workers (which you are clearly not) - but I know from my perspective - I am keen to know that the prospective owners have thought through their options, how they are going to manage them and what contingency plans are in place, if, for example, you are unable to get home over a lunch-time.


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## polkinghrnr (Dec 28, 2011)

great advice 
Just what i was looking for!:thumbup1:


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