# He always wants to walk ahead of me!



## BenCooper (Dec 29, 2010)

Hi everyone,

As some of you now know my wife and I have a 3 year old Lab called Obi. He's a lovely boy and is very well behaved. The only time he gets frustrating is out on walks. He is forever trying to get ahead, he doesn't seem to like the idea of sticking close to me! I've put it down to using one of those extendible leads when he was a pup(never again!) and I guess laziness or our part.

How would you guys suggest dealing with this? 

Thanks,
Ben


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## hutch6 (May 9, 2008)

A repeated post so sorry to those who have read it before 

Your dog pulls for one reason and one reason only - it wants to get to something as quickly as possible.

If you allow the pulling and go along with the dog pulling, the dogs gets to what it wants on it's own terms so is rewarded for pulling. This makes the dog pull harder.

There is a £20 note nailed to a fence 50yards away from you. You can't get to it because you are tied to a heavy tire unless you pull. You pull that tyre with all of your mite and get the reward of the £20.
Now you are tied to something that will not move unless you are at the side of it, the £20 note is 400yards away and you have 20mins to get to it - plenty of time. If you pull on the lead or get too far in front the object locks down and will not move no matter how much you pull.
Once you stop pulling and go back to the contraption it delivers a £1 coin to you and allows you to move towards the £20 note.

Now the £20 note is 400yards away, you are tied to the same contraption but you only have 8mins to get to it. The contraption will lock down completely unless you are at the side of it at all times.

Now you have been trained to walk to heel to get your reward. That is what you do with your dog.

IF they pull then stop. Lock the lead down - don't pull them back, and wait. You may get stuck like that for a while to begin with as the dog is used to pulling to get it's reward. The lead will be tight because the dog is pulling against you. After a while the dog will work out "Well my neck is hurting, I am not getting to where I want to get to so what's the point in pulling?" It will either take a few steps back, sit or lay down. "Good dog!" - throw it a treat and verbally praise. It has worked out that it will get no where by pulling.

Do this a few times but then start to withhold the treat until the dog expectantly wonders why it hasn't got a treat so makes it way back to you after stopping pulling. "Good dog! - treat and praise verbally or physically if the dog is close to you.

You can start with a full lead out, half your lead length or hardly any lead at all but every time the dog has pulled and you have stopped you must wait for the dog to work out it isn't going anywhere or it won't get what you are trying to achieve as fast. Every time you want to set off walking again then work your way up the lead to the dog until you are beside it. Then give your instruction to walk on whatever you want. 

Only use your "Heel" (choose whatever word you want. I use "Slowly") command when the dog is in the position you want it to be. No point saying heel only for the dog to belt to the end of the leash and start pulling again.

You may find that your dog will pull towards the target for a bit but then come back to you instead of just taking the tension off the line. If so then that is a bonus as it eliminates a few steps and a fare bit of time.

Only reward a slack lead and any lead tension means you stop and ignore.

Takes a few sessions but you have a dog that realises there is no point pulling for anything as it won't get the reward it wants on it's own terms.


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## Poipin (Aug 14, 2009)

hucth6 just reading your post - wonder can you offer advice to me as well. i have done EXACTLY what your post says. only now i have a bunji jumping dog. my lead is short (4ft) he runs to the end of the lead - it tightens, jerks my arm - he then shimmies backwards head up looking at me comes back to my leg to heel, walks for all of 2 paces and then he lunges out again, pulls lead, immediately comes back in. 

i look ridiculous walking a bunji dog, and my arm keeps getting pulled/jerked driving me mad. ive brought him in on a shorter lead by my side, although he does the same thing all be it on a shorter lead HELP!! lol 

any advice to cure this one?


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## Colliepoodle (Oct 20, 2008)

Hutch's advice is spot on.

Doubtless though someone will come along at some point and tell you that your dog wishes to be in front of you because he is trying to be the boss, or dominant


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## hutch6 (May 9, 2008)

Poipin said:


> hucth6 just reading your post - wonder can you offer advice to me as well. i have done EXACTLY what your post says. only now i have a bunji jumping dog. my lead is short (4ft) he runs to the end of the lead - it tightens, jerks my arm - he then shimmies backwards head up looking at me comes back to my leg to heel, walks for all of 2 paces and then he lunges out again, pulls lead, immediately comes back in.
> 
> i look ridiculous walking a bunji dog, and my arm keeps getting pulled/jerked driving me mad. ive brought him in on a shorter lead by my side, although he does the same thing all be it on a shorter lead HELP!! lol
> 
> any advice to cure this one?


This easy enough done but you will look ridiculous for a bit longer but in a new way   

Get yourself some really good treats such as cooked chicken pieces or whatever you can.

Trying to do this when the dog is first let out of the house or car is ridiculous and shouldn't be tempted so carry on until your dog has had a decent length of walk or a run around and is a bit more calmer and focussed.

Put the lead on the dog and get him to sit. Treat.

Walk around so you are in front of him facing him. Put a treat under his nose and coax him towards you as you walk backwards. as he walks a couple of paces then treat. 
Now he won't walk past the treat so you are rewarding him for walking calmly essentially.

Now get him to walk 5 paces holding the treat in front of his nose before treating. Then ten paces. All the time you are walking backwards facing him so you can keep an eye on him.

Keep upping the distance gradually.

Once you can go 30paces it is time to drop the lure of the treat.

Get him to sit in front of you again. This time just hold the treat in your hand but don;t put it near the dog. Start walking backwards. As soon as he has walked 3paces calmly then treat - this will happen in about 2secs so be prepared 

Get him to do it again and again and again.

Now up the challenge and only reward him for walking 5paces calmly.

If he tries to rush or anything because you are facing him you are in the prime position for holding out a hand, palm facing him like you would stop traffic and saying "No!" to control him. He will get the idea that if he rushes he gets no reward but if he walks calmly he does.

So you can now walk 5paces calmly. Up the challenge to 10 paces calmly before treating.

Work your way up to 30 paces again.

Now you are going to add a cue. You might use "Heel" or whatever, I use "slowly" as it does what is says on the tin and it sounds like what it means.

Go back to 3paces again but this time just before you start to move backwards away from your dog give the cue - "Slowly". Treat for achievement.

Work your way all the way up to 30paces again.

Now go back to 3paces but this time you are going to walk sideways alongside your dog so "Sit", "Slowly", 3 paces and "Good dog" with treat.

Now 5 paces, 10 paces and up to 30.

Now back to 3 paces but you are going to start with your dog alongside you and both facing the same way. The treat needs to go in the hand on whichever side the dog is on on - dog on left, treat in left and lead in right going across your body. Now there is nothing really to acts as a blockage for the dog so start with the cue - "Slowly", the treat on the end of his nose again and work your way up to 30paces walking alongside you.

Test him and do a few more at 30 paces or even up it to 50 or 70 paces.

Now take the lure away from the end of his nose and cue - "Slowly", walk 5 paces without the lure and treat for walking nicely. If he runs of then do as my original post said and just stop, call him back to you, treat at the end of the nose again and go for 10 paces.

The stop and the treat only for walking nicely hit home fast - "I go nowhere if I go out in front and yet I get a reward for being there. I either lose in front or I gain being there". It's a no brainer for the dog.

Hope that makes sense.


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## Poipin (Aug 14, 2009)

Thanks Hutch6 i think im going to have my work cut out with him! 

i can put him in a controlled sit but he never looks at me - its whats around him and what will he run to when hes released out of the sit. never interested in food/treats/toys/me its whats hiding in the bushes or in the river - should say he is a springer/cocker! his release command is 'ok' at which point he lunges forward! my dog doesnt do calm lol

also I have noticed he associates training with places. roads that we cross regularly - he automatically sits and waits for his 'heel nice' and walks nicely across the road. places where i havent trained this - he doesnt do it, and its a real effort to get him to do it. 

also another annoying thing about him - i walk him on my left, when he pulls, i stand still, say nothing, he comes back by my left side, in behind my legs, comes out on the right side and walks calmly on the right - then lunges in front, comes back to the left side and repeats all over again! im forever swapping the lead around my body aarrgghh!! 

thanks for the advice - i will definately give it a go.

Ellen


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## BenCooper (Dec 29, 2010)

Thanks Hutch I'll start this today 

This can be my new years resolution!

Variation on a theme now, he gets particularly excited/frustrating when we go to the park. He knows that when we go a certain way he's going there and for want of a better word goes mental. I did take to going a different way a few times but he clicked onto it, he just knows when the park is close.

The other possible problem is that he has never responded to food when we're out with him so is there something else we can use? I'll give the food a good try first though


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## hutch6 (May 9, 2008)

Poipin said:


> Thanks Hutch6 i think im going to have my work cut out with him!
> 
> i can put him in a controlled sit but he never looks at me - its whats around him and what will he run to when hes released out of the sit. never interested in food/treats/toys/me its whats hiding in the bushes or in the river - should say he is a springer/cocker! his release command is 'ok' at which point he lunges forward! my dog doesnt do calm lol
> 
> ...


Then why not do your "Heel nice" when crossing a road, then when you reach the other side of the road say "Stop" and then do "Heel nice" but walk along the road you have just cossed for 10yrds, "Stop", "Heel nice" and cross the road again, "Stop", "Heel nice" and walk back along the other side of the road so you are walking a square shape long and across the same road? That way you can extend the amount of road you walk along before crossing again so upping her association distance.



BenCooper said:


> Thanks Hutch I'll start this today
> 
> This can be my new years resolution!
> 
> ...


You got a tug toy or you could try missing breakfast and cooking soem chicken for him - no dog can resist proper cooked chicken


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## BenCooper (Dec 29, 2010)

Good shout I'll give it a go with the ball on a rope he likes


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## hutch6 (May 9, 2008)

Anything that motivates them is classed as a treat


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## BenCooper (Dec 29, 2010)

Noted 

Everyday's a school day!


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## Burrowzig (Feb 18, 2009)

Poipin said:


> hucth6 just reading your post - wonder can you offer advice to me as well. i have done EXACTLY what your post says. only now i have a bunji jumping dog. my lead is short (4ft) he runs to the end of the lead - it tightens, jerks my arm - he then shimmies backwards head up looking at me comes back to my leg to heel, walks for all of 2 paces and then he lunges out again, pulls lead, immediately comes back in.
> 
> i look ridiculous walking a bunji dog, and my arm keeps getting pulled/jerked driving me mad. ive brought him in on a shorter lead by my side, although he does the same thing all be it on a shorter lead HELP!! lol
> 
> any advice to cure this one?


Kite did that too, cured by a halti.


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## Poipin (Aug 14, 2009)

Burrowzig said:


> Kite did that too, cured by a halti.


 he absolutely HATES the halti. I like my dogs to enjoy their walks and as soon as that goes on the tail goes in between the legs and i have to be real firm with him to keep his head up off the ground and stop rubbing his head all over my legs trying to get the thing off! its carried in my pocket and it goes on when hes REALLY bad and I cant take anymore!! lol


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## Colliepoodle (Oct 20, 2008)

Poipin said:


> he absolutely HATES the halti. I like my dogs to enjoy their walks and as soon as that goes on the tail goes in between the legs and i have to be real firm with him to keep his head up off the ground and stop rubbing his head all over my legs trying to get the thing off! its carried in my pocket and it goes on when hes REALLY bad and I cant take anymore!! lol


The Halti should be introduced gently, using treats. Show him the Halti, give a treat. Work up to draping it over his nose/treating. Work up to putting it on without doing it up/treating. Put it on, done up, for a second, give a treat, take it off. Leave it on for a bit longer, treating every few seconds. Attach the lead, walk a couple of paces, treat. Etc etc. It sounds like it takes ages, but it doesn't really.


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## hutch6 (May 9, 2008)

How is the training coming along BC and Poipin?


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