# Advice on stopping my dog approaching other dogs



## lulabobs (Jan 3, 2009)

After just reading and commenting on another thread i have a 19 week old pup, and would like some advise on how you stop your dog just bounding over to other dogs. At the moment when i see another dog i call Roxy to me and make her sit untill they have either walked by or the dog owner has said its fine to release her .


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

It's the one thing Oscar won't come back for. 

He will not recall if he spots another dog and i am not quick enough (usually i am). I do what you do, make him sit etc and i do this for groups of people, bikes etc even when there isn't another dog about because i just want him to automatically come back to me rather than go up to any tom dick or harry.

I have just assumed that eventually his recall will become 100% the more reinforcement he gets.

My trainer sais it's important not to set them up to fail as this teaches them to ignore it and to keep them on a long line until they totally get it but we walk in woods and i just don't think Oscar is safe on a long line so i just try to be super vigilant.


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## goodvic2 (Nov 23, 2008)

HI. What you are trying to do is crucial, so it's great you are dealing with it. If a dog approaches a nervous dog the wrong way i.e by charging, it can cause the nervous dog to defend itself.

It depends what you want to achieve. Do you want to teach the dog how to approach on it's own? i.e by walking over calmly. Or do you want to recall your dog and not allow it approach until the other owner has said ok.

The second option is easiest as you can control the meet by leading your dog over and controlling any charging. I also believe this is best as you are in charge and it teaches the dog how to meet correctly. Over time, your dog will be able to approach on it's own as it will have learnt great social skills.

I have 3 rescue dogs, 2 whom have no social skills due to their background. I so wish I had your opportunity, as if it is not done right as pups, you end up with problems.

Good luck 
Vicky x


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## JSR (Jan 2, 2009)

Well done you are doing exactly the right thing. Make sure that when she returns to you, you either reward with a small treat or a warm word or just a pat on the head, this age it's vital she realised she's done good and it will set you up for life!! Sounds like you've got it pretty much sorted:thumbup1: . It's really useful if you can find other dogs for her to have organised play with, she'll learn a huge amount about manners and doggie social skills from them, but so far it sounds to me like you are doing brill. :cornut:


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## lulabobs (Jan 3, 2009)

JSR said:


> Well done you are doing exactly the right thing. Make sure that when she returns to you, you either reward with a small treat or a warm word or just a pat on the head, this age it's vital she realised she's done good and it will set you up for life!! Sounds like you've got it pretty much sorted:thumbup1: . It's really useful if you can find other dogs for her to have organised play with, she'll learn a huge amount about manners and doggie social skills from them, but so far it sounds to me like you are doing brill. :cornut:


oh thank you, i'll keep it up then, my only problem is i do go to the park with my 2 friends that also have dogs one being 18 motnhs and a bit crazy no social skills what so ever and one that is 7 months and still learning himself. The older one tends to play rough like really tugging on the neck nd stuff which Roxy is fine with she has no problem with, but she then thinks she can do that to all other dogs, do you think dogs pick up other dogs habits or is that just how they all play ????


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## staflove (Sep 4, 2008)

You seem to have the situation undercontrol and doing it like a respectfull owner should, on the other hand your dog is still very young and dogs can read each other very well, if she is bounding over and she wants to play the other dog will see this is play behavouire, but best to keep control cos not all dogs get on and even though yours wants to play the other may not and thats when fights start, keep up the good work


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## JSR (Jan 2, 2009)

lulabobs said:


> oh thank you, i'll keep it up then, my only problem is i do go to the park with my 2 friends that also have dogs one being 18 motnhs and a bit crazy no social skills what so ever and one that is 7 months and still learning himself. The older one tends to play rough like really tugging on the neck nd stuff which Roxy is fine with she has no problem with, but she then thinks she can do that to all other dogs, do you think dogs pick up other dogs habits or is that just how they all play ????


Dogs do play very rough and as long as she's happy and you are able to judge if it's play and not getting out of control then I'd let that continue. You'd certainly benefit from finding another 'play mate' for her that is older and better trained. I have a pack of dogs and find teaching any young foster dogs much easier if I take along my 4 year old poodle x who is extreamly well trained. They tend to learn more off him than me! I've recently added a new addition to my pack who wasn't housetrained (he'd been caged for 2 years) but he learnt within days to go out the dog flap not by me telling him but by following the other dogs! A well behaved partner dog is worth it's weight in gold in helping with a puppy. I'd worry your 2 friends dogs might undo all the good work you've started, certainly they are great for her to play with but it might be worth taking time out on the walks to focus her attention back to just you and spend 10 minutes doing some 1 to 1 training apart from your friends?


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## ad_1980 (Jan 28, 2009)

Instead of starting another thread i will just ask my question on this thread because its a related matter.

Mika as you all know is now 4 months old and just yesterday i let him off lead. he was very good came back when called and i rewarded him with a treat every time. But my sister tells me (because he is a small dog) is that i should be careful around other dogs in case they do attack or kill Mika because he is too small to defend himself which i agree. As i said so far he comes back when called and i do put him on a lead when i do see a dog, but how am i going to do this when he is 6 months old? I read that at 6 months they reach adolesence stage and tend to be very explorative and ignorant - now i don't want my hard work to fail, so how can i ensure Mika will listen?

I mean he's got a couple months before he reaches that stage anyway - i just want to be prepared for the situation.


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

rainy said:


> I have just assumed that eventually his recall will become 100% the more reinforcement he gets.
> 
> My trainer sais it's important not to set them up to fail as this teaches them to ignore it and to keep them on a long line until they totally get it but we walk in woods and i just don't think Oscar is safe on a long line so i just try to be super vigilant.


I agree with your trainer  Why don't you think Oscar is safe on a long line?

Never assume recall will be 100% unless that is what you have proofed for. I could give my hound all the reinforcement in the world, but that doesn't mean that in any high distraction environment, she will automatically comply 100%. It is about how you work to proof it that is important. The old question that 'if a rabbit run in front of your dog when he was in stay, would he stay?" If the answer is no... then keep working at it and training for that distraction.



ad_1980 said:


> Instead of starting another thread i will just ask my question on this thread because its a related matter.
> 
> Mika as you all know is now 4 months old and just yesterday i let him off lead. he was very good came back when called and i rewarded him with a treat every time. But my sister tells me (because he is a small dog) is that i should be careful around other dogs in case they do attack or kill Mika because he is too small to defend himself which i agree. As i said so far he comes back when called and i do put him on a lead when i do see a dog, but how am i going to do this when he is 6 months old? I read that at 6 months they reach adolesence stage and tend to be very explorative and ignorant - now i don't want my hard work to fail, so how can i ensure Mika will listen?
> 
> I mean he's got a couple months before he reaches that stage anyway - i just want to be prepared for the situation.


Again, it is about the work you put into training him. Prepare for the fact that he may very well become more challenging as he gets older - don't be afraid to put him back on the long line and teach him there are consequences for failing to comply to a *known* command, even if it is as simple as reeling him back in and removing him from what he considers a fun situation (i.e. playing with another dog if he is ignoring your command).

Do everything you can to ensure that your dog sees you as the most exciting thing on the planet, when it comes to other dogs make sure he understands that you say when play/interaction starts and stops. For example - my dog must remain in heel position, looking up at me with great focus before I give her the ok to play with other dogs.


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

smeagle said:


> I agree with your trainer  Why don't you think Oscar is safe on a long line?
> 
> Never assume recall will be 100% unless that is what you have proofed for. I could give my hound all the reinforcement in the world, but that doesn't mean that in any high distraction environment, she will automatically comply 100%. It is about how you work to proof it that is important. The old question that 'if a rabbit run in front of your dog when he was in stay, would he stay?" If the answer is no... then keep working at it and training for that distraction.
> 
> ...


Because it is wooded and he is a cocker spaniel who likes to work the undergrowth and sniff about in the trees so would just get caught up all the time. I might as well have him on a normal lead because i wouldn't be able to give him much scope to run.


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## Paws of Eskbank (Apr 15, 2009)

Agree with all that has been said. Another tip is to get a toy (we use a ball on a rope) that you create as a high value item. I.e. play with for short periods and then remove from play whilst it is still the best thing in the world! If you can get your dog to think that this is the most high value desirable item you can keep it in your pocket for walks and get it out when there is a big distraction. We found this really helped with our dog Jess. She is usually good a recall unless there is 'something more exciting than us'! So the toy gaves us a higher ranking - especially in those troublesome teenage months!

Steph
Paws Of Eskbank


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

rainy said:


> Because it is wooded and he is a cocker spaniel who likes to work the undergrowth and sniff about in the trees so would just get caught up all the time. I might as well have him on a normal lead because i wouldn't be able to give him much scope to run.


So you're worried about it catching on things and hurting him?

Personally, I don't let my dogs off leash if, like your trainer suggested, I know they won't come back. I don't like to set my dogs up to fail. So I have always found long lines very useful in training recall and building reliability - I actually use them for safety reasons as I would hate to think what would happen to my scent hound if she caught a scent and ran away towards a road or something equally as dangerous.

ETA: I've never had a problem with my long lines catching on things and hurting the dog, even with a dog who will get into everything, as I am always close by to untangle the leash if it does get tangled up


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## Paws of Eskbank (Apr 15, 2009)

We also used a long line and found it very helpful!


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

Paws of Eskbank said:


> We also used a long line and found it very helpful!


Yes I love them!! They are a great tool...


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## ad_1980 (Jan 28, 2009)

Paws of Eskbank said:


> Agree with all that has been said. Another tip is to get a toy (we use a ball on a rope) that you create as a high value item. I.e. play with for short periods and then remove from play whilst it is still the best thing in the world! If you can get your dog to think that this is the most high value desirable item you can keep it in your pocket for walks and get it out when there is a big distraction. We found this really helped with our dog Jess. She is usually good a recall unless there is 'something more exciting than us'! So the toy gaves us a higher ranking - especially in those troublesome teenage months!
> 
> Steph
> Paws Of Eskbank


I wish Mika would play with a toy in the park. He seems interested in sticks all the time. Yesterday i brought one of his toys with us to the park and threw that about and he took it a couple of times but wasn't interested. So how is it he's interested in sticks and not his own toys? Weird dog!


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

Great suggestion Paws of Esbank... playing to the dog's prey drive is a great way to get reliability and increase their value in you.



ad_1980 said:


> I wish Mika would play with a toy in the park. He seems interested in sticks all the time. Yesterday i brought one of his toys with us to the park and threw that about and he took it a couple of times but wasn't interested. So how is it he's interested in sticks and not his own toys? Weird dog!


What about food? You can try a similar approach but using food instead of a toy. One of my dogs is more food motivated than prey, but I can still use the same approach with food, getting her excited and throwing food to her and getting her to catch it etc.


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## ad_1980 (Jan 28, 2009)

I never tried food - but i use his food as a training tool to come back - ie treats. 

Darn i've always wanted a dog i could throw the ball to at the park...here's wishful thinking lol!


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## Paws of Eskbank (Apr 15, 2009)

Well a stick is also a toy! Food is also a great idea, if his usual treats are not as exciting as something else - how about a piece of sausage or cheese? 

Our other dog is a rescue and is too scared of toys, sticks, anything out of the ordinary! Won't even take a treat out on a walk. However somewhere along the line he has been taught to heel (but not much else), it took us weeks to get him to leave our side, Jess wold love nothing more than for him to play with her but I just don't think he ever got the socialising when he was younger!

Just find whatever works for your pooch and stick with it. The toy bit will only work if it is the 'best thing in the world' I reckon a stick will be more interesting as he doesn't get to play with sticks at home and he can chew it too! Just keep it fun for you both too those early months are fantastic!


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

Paws of Eskbank said:


> Well a stick is also a toy! Food is also a great idea, if his usual treats are not as exciting as something else - how about a piece of sausage or cheese?
> 
> Our other dog is a rescue and is too scared of toys, sticks, anything out of the ordinary! Won't even take a treat out on a walk. However somewhere along the line he has been taught to heel (but not much else), it took us weeks to get him to leave our side, Jess wold love nothing more than for him to play with her but I just don't think he ever got the socialising when he was younger!
> 
> Just find whatever works for your pooch and stick with it. The toy bit will only work if it is the 'best thing in the world' I reckon a stick will be more interesting as he doesn't get to play with sticks at home and he can chew it too! Just keep it fun for you both too those early months are fantastic!


Sorry but can i just say I absolutely would *not *recommend sticks to anyone. They are totally lethal.

I have personally known of 2 dogs nearly killed chasing a thrown stick.


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## Paws of Eskbank (Apr 15, 2009)

Gosh that is awful - what happened?


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

Paws of Eskbank said:


> Gosh that is awful - what happened?


Dog running at full tilt, stick hits ground end on leaving the other end sticking up, dog impales itself on sharp end of stick.

It was only luck that in both cases they were large dogs so the stick had further to travel down the throat.

It was a very costly and painful injury though. 

Stick injuries in dogs - Times Online


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## Paws of Eskbank (Apr 15, 2009)

OMG, thank you so much for letting me know, luckily I have never known anyone that this has happened too but am now never going to throw a stick for anyone's dog ever again! 

Jess loves her toys but does sometimes pick up a nice juicy stick to carry, I will be always replacing it with a ball from now on!

Thanks again

Steph


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## Guest (Apr 15, 2009)

Paws of Eskbank said:


> OMG, thank you so much for letting me know, luckily I have never known anyone that this has happened too but am now never going to throw a stick for anyone's dog ever again!
> 
> Jess loves her toys but does sometimes pick up a nice juicy stick to carry, I will be always replacing it with a ball from now on!
> 
> ...


It really is very common. They can do it just carrying them but that wouldn't necessarily be life threatening just nasty.

One of the dogs i knew was a big GSD cross and literally was saved by her size, it was a horrific injury.

Glad i highlighted it for you :thumbup:


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## lulabobs (Jan 3, 2009)

JSR said:


> Dogs do play very rough and as long as she's happy and you are able to judge if it's play and not getting out of control then I'd let that continue. You'd certainly benefit from finding another 'play mate' for her that is older and better trained. I have a pack of dogs and find teaching any young foster dogs much easier if I take along my 4 year old poodle x who is extreamly well trained. They tend to learn more off him than me! I've recently added a new addition to my pack who wasn't housetrained (he'd been caged for 2 years) but he learnt within days to go out the dog flap not by me telling him but by following the other dogs! A well behaved partner dog is worth it's weight in gold in helping with a puppy. I'd worry your 2 friends dogs might undo all the good work you've started, certainly they are great for her to play with but it might be worth taking time out on the walks to focus her attention back to just you and spend 10 minutes doing some 1 to 1 training apart from your friends?


what i tend to do is i walk her properly in the morning / lunch to do the good walkin training side of things and play with the CRAZY dogs after the school run on the park lol! i could do with finding some nice calm dogs to walk with lol


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## JSR (Jan 2, 2009)

lulabobs said:


> what i tend to do is i walk her properly in the morning / lunch to do the good walkin training side of things and play with the CRAZY dogs after the school run on the park lol! i could do with finding some nice calm dogs to walk with lol


Sounds to me like you have nothing to worry about, you are doing everything right. She's a lucky girl to have you.  Think we need a piccy of her now please.


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## lulabobs (Jan 3, 2009)

JSR said:


> Sounds to me like you have nothing to worry about, you are doing everything right. She's a lucky girl to have you.  Think we need a piccy of her now please.


6 weeks old









and now at 19 weeks


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## Guest (Apr 16, 2009)

Fabulous looking dog. Looks really happy


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## JSR (Jan 2, 2009)

Oh she's beautiful!!! Thank you. :smilewinkgrin:


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