# golden retriever getting aggresive more and more



## abhyudaya12 (Feb 23, 2012)

hi i have a golden retriever, BOLT ,of age around 9 months. we brought him in as a small pup he wasn't aggressive at first until when he was about 6 months he bit me when i tried to take my sock from him. but i figured that was because he was playing with it so had got angry. after that he was normal until a few months back when he developed this habit of growling. if he steals anything he will straight away go under the table and sit there with his loot and if even try coming near him hell give us the worst stare and will start growling really bad. this is getting a trouble now because if hes under the table and we want to even clean the place he starts growling. and we can't do anything because of the fear of getting bitten. we have a trainer who says that if he growls hit him a little but i don't think that would ever help this. we have a domestic help who used to irritate him a lot making him more aggressive so i kept a check on that and his growling had stopped for a while but now i see hes back on the old track. i love him a lot and i don't want my parents to send him away because of this. please help.

its only that particular place under the table where he gets really angry and growly . else hes a really playful dog and very cheerful with everyone he meets.


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

What I do when my dog has something I don't want him to have is offer a treat. He'll drop what he has, I say "swap!" and give him the treat. While he's eating that I take away whatever it was he originally had. With your dog I would also toss a couple of treats away from the item so that he has to move away from it to get them and you can pick it up safely. Yes, at first you're bribing the dog to give up something but as he learns the "swap!" cue I will ask for the item and then give him a treat he hasn't seen so that he learns I will reward regardless of whether or not he's seen the reward first. I also practice this with his toys and items I don't mind him having. Once he's swapped he gets the treat AND whatever it was he had back in this case.

To get him out from under the table I'd go and do something really fun. Play with a toy or pick up his leash and when he comes out reward him with a game or a short walk (even just up the street and back, the important thing is not to lie to him, if you offer a walk or a game then you MUST follow through with it). I'd also be randomly tossing him really yummy treats from a distance while he's under there so that he learns that you being nearby while he's under there is a good thing. I take it people have gone under there and forcibly removed him or whatever he's guarding? If so that needs to stop. He needs to be taught that he does not need to protect his possessions from you, that you are not going to steal them from him (in his mind this is what you're doing). 

The book "Mine!" is apparently a very good read if you have a resource guarder. I haven't read it myself though. I certainly would NOT hit your dog for his behaviour, all that's likely to do is escalate the aggression.


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## smokeybear (Oct 19, 2011)

abhyudaya12 said:


> hi i have a golden retriever, BOLT ,of age around 9 months. we brought him in as a small pup he wasn't aggressive at first until when he was about 6 months he bit me when i tried to take my sock from him. but i figured that was because he was playing with it so had got angry. after that he was normal until a few months back when he developed this habit of growling. if he steals anything he will straight away go under the table and sit there with his loot and if even try coming near him hell give us the worst stare and will start growling really bad. this is getting a trouble now because if hes under the table and we want to even clean the place he starts growling. and we can't do anything because of the fear of getting bitten. we have a trainer who says that if he growls hit him a little but i don't think that would ever help this. we have a domestic help who used to irritate him a lot making him more aggressive so i kept a check on that and his growling had stopped for a while but now i see hes back on the old track. i love him a lot and i don't want my parents to send him away because of this. please help.
> 
> its only that particular place under the table where he gets really angry and growly . else hes a really playful dog and very cheerful with everyone he meets.


PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do NOT hit your dog for resource guarding and if your TRAINER suggestted this, CHANGE YOUR TRAINER!

Where do you live perhaps we can recommend someone?

NEVER stop a dog from growling, it is the equivalent of a smoke alarm!

this is simple to cure. Without Confrontation.

I would recommend Mine! A practical guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs by Jean Donaldson.

In the meantime, when you are THERE stick a light house line on him (no loop at end) so you can remove the dog without conflict, using food if required.

NEVER leave the lead on unsupervised.

This is quite a common problem, it does not mean your dog is nasty, he is hard wired to do this but it is easily solved PRO
HTHVIDED you do not use poor methods eg punishment.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

abhyudaya12 said:


> hi i have a golden retriever, BOLT ,of age around 9 months. we brought him in as a small pup he wasn't aggressive at first until when he was about 6 months he bit me when i tried to take my sock from him. but i figured that was because he was playing with it so had got angry. after that he was normal until a few months back when he developed this habit of growling. if he steals anything he will straight away go under the table and sit there with his loot and if even try coming near him hell give us the worst stare and will start growling really bad. this is getting a trouble now because if hes under the table and we want to even clean the place he starts growling. and we can't do anything because of the fear of getting bitten. we have a trainer who says that if he growls hit him a little but i don't think that would ever help this. we have a domestic help who used to irritate him a lot making him more aggressive so i kept a check on that and his growling had stopped for a while but now i see hes back on the old track. i love him a lot and i don't want my parents to send him away because of this. please help.
> 
> its only that particular place under the table where he gets really angry and growly . else hes a really playful dog and very cheerful with everyone he meets.


First of all, have you ever taught him to leave or drop it? You do this by offering something of higher value to the dog, like a treat, and swap it. When the dog lets go of his possession, you say leave it or drop it (whichever suits you but stick to the one or the other).

He has decided that under the table is his own space, and if I were you I would not try to get him out unless absolutely necessary. If you ignore him being there for a while, could take weeks, he may decide it is not worth guarding. If you keep trying to get him out, he may be seeing that as a game.

Also, do not ever correct the growling. It is his warning, and needs to be respected.

Your "trainer" is useless, get rid of him/her. Unfortunately anyone can call themselves dog trainers when they know sweet fa about the subject.

PS I meant to add that Golden Retrievers can be a bit possessive over their finds. Well, at least mine was.


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## PennyGC (Sep 24, 2011)

Yes, I agree with the above posts - your dog is resource guarding as someone has clearly simply removed stuff from him, so he's going into 'his' den to keep 'his' toys/chews whatever 'safe'. Someone has taken his trust in humans away and as he's now a hormonal teenager he's making sure that they don't keep doing it!

I agree - get rid of the trainer.... don't be confrontational, the house line is a great idea and so is resource 'swapping' rather than 'taking' - get him used to having things from you and then introduce the idea of swapping. 

I also agree not to hit (of course!) and not to stop the growling by any means other than training positively and gently - you have to regain your dog's trust and not to remove the safety net of a grow... biting can come next, so I'd rather keep the growl!

Good luck, let us know how you get on.


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## abhyank (Apr 19, 2012)

Hey guys,
I am the brother of the guy who posted the thread in the first place, well to update you all my dog has grown hes around 10-11 months old nw, we have changed his trainer who seems a little more able, the problem is nw tht hes grown he has become a little more amicable but at the same time very unpredictable too, at times it seems he has a split personality dis order, he has bitten almost all members of our family....including me just today morning(sigh) the biting happened earlier whn seemingly it was a fault of our own tht is we came close when he was feeding etc, but since the past 2 instances he has bitten us even when we were playing around with him, i really cant understand why...is he feeling threatened?? at night he gets really territorial growling at anyone who comes close to him beneath the table.....we manage to get things out of his grasp by giving him treats...but his unpredictable behavior is rattling us now....the one reason i can figure out after reading your posts is that he is not getting much exercise....all of us are working and we dont get time to run arnd with him apart frm his normal walks 4 times a day to allow him to urinate outside.....we dont keep him chained hes free to roam around the house so i really cant understand wht to do nw.....please help i really dont want to send him away.....


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## smokeybear (Oct 19, 2011)

_....all of us are working and we dont get time to run arnd with him apart frm his normal walks 4 times a day to allow him to urinate outside._

I am afraid you have to MAKE time if you have a dog, it is not a Gerbil that you can keep in a cage.

If you cannot be bothered to give this dog the training and exercise he needs then you should reconsider whether or not you are suitable dog owners.

I work full time, I FIND time to train and exercise my dogs, EVERYONE has time to do the things they WANT to.

So, either consider rehoming him responsibily or hire a reputable behaviourist to give you advice.

Where do you live, perhaps we can recommend someone


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## RAINYBOW (Aug 27, 2009)

Hi There,

You need professional help as soon as possible to overcome this Resource Guarding rather than help from the internet.

The dog is still very young so it shouldnt be too hard to resolve but will require dedication, consistency and above all else a plan based on someone doing a proper assesment of you, the pup and your personal circumstances.

My cocker began guarding at about the same age as your Goldie and we resolved the issue, it took about 6 months. He is 3 know and i can honestly say he doesn't display any of this type of behaviour anymore so it can be reversed but you need really good advice to ensure you aren't accidently rewarding the behaviour or making it worse inadvertently.

My first stop would be the vets to see if they can recommend a decent trainer or behaviourist.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

abhyank said:


> Hey guys,
> I am the brother of the guy who posted the thread in the first place, well to update you all my dog has grown hes around 10-11 months old nw, we have changed his trainer who seems a little more able, the problem is nw tht hes grown he has become a little more amicable but at the same time very unpredictable too, at times it seems he has a split personality dis order, he has bitten almost all members of our family....including me just today morning(sigh) the biting happened earlier whn seemingly it was a fault of our own tht is we came close when he was feeding etc, but since the past 2 instances he has bitten us even when we were playing around with him, i really cant understand why...is he feeling threatened?? at night he gets really territorial growling at anyone who comes close to him beneath the table.....we manage to get things out of his grasp by giving him treats...but his unpredictable behavior is rattling us now....the one reason i can figure out after reading your posts is that he is not getting much exercise....all of us are working and we dont get time to run arnd with him apart frm his normal walks 4 times a day to allow him to urinate outside.....we dont keep him chained hes free to roam around the house so i really cant understand wht to do nw.....please help i really dont want to send him away.....


As Rainybow has said, you need a qualified behaviourist, not some idiot who thinks you should be hitting the dog or preventing him from growling. Have you had him checked by the vet to make sure he is not in any pain? Dogs do not display pain very easily, and he could be worried if he is.

This is not normal behaviour for a goldie, it really isn't. If you are only taking him out on lead long enough to do a wee, then obviously he is frustrated - if you don't have the time, then employ a reputable dog walker to take him out for an hour ever day. But make sure you disclose his problems or it won't be fair.

This dog needs to see more of the outside world, he needs to be socialised with other dogs and other people. You cannot keep a working breed like this and expect him to behave nicely; it is so unfair.


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## Bobbie (May 3, 2008)

I think the poster will get fed up with the dog and put him into a rescue centre then some other person will try and sort him out. I cannot understand why people get a big dog that needs lots of walks and training then have the excuse i go out to work and haven't the time.:cursing:


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

Bobbie said:


> I think the poster will get fed up with the dog and put him into a rescue centre then some other person will try and sort him out. I cannot understand why people get a big dog that needs lots of walks and training then have the excuse i go out to work and haven't the time.:cursing:


Well, I have to agree; if you don't have time for a dog, don't get one. He has been told that the dog needs more exercise and socialisation, but it doesn't seem as though that has been dealt with at all.

Of course he's grumpy and irritable - he's bored stiff.


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## DoodlesRule (Jul 7, 2011)

To be honest am surprised he's not ripped your house apart with a lack of exercise/attention


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## Rottsmum (Aug 26, 2011)

abhyank said:


> Hey guys,
> I am the brother of the guy who posted the thread in the first place, well to update you all my dog has grown hes around 10-11 months old nw, we have changed his trainer who seems a little more able, the problem is nw tht hes grown he has become a little more amicable but at the same time very unpredictable too, at times it seems he has a split personality dis order, he has bitten almost all members of our family....including me just today morning(sigh) the biting happened earlier whn seemingly it was a fault of our own tht is we came close when he was feeding etc, but since the past 2 instances he has bitten us even when we were playing around with him, i really cant understand why...is he feeling threatened?? at night he gets really territorial growling at anyone who comes close to him beneath the table.....we manage to get things out of his grasp by giving him treats...but his unpredictable behavior is rattling us now....the one reason i can figure out after reading your posts is that he is not getting much exercise....all of us are working and we dont get time to run arnd with him apart frm his normal walks 4 times a day to allow him to urinate outside.....we dont keep him chained hes free to roam around the house so i really cant understand wht to do nw.....please help i really dont want to send him away.....


OP, I really would get him checked out by the vet. As another poster has said, this doesn't sound like typical behaviour for a Goldie. Also whereabouts are you? I kind of get the impression that you are not in the uk? Do you have access to qualified behaviourists?

A couple of things leap out from your post:

1. The resource guarding has been mismanaged, probably on the advice of a bad "Trainer". I would work on teaching Bolt to trade (exchange whatever he has for something better), Drop (spit out whatever he has in his mouth) and Leave it (forbidden item never enters his mouth in the first place)as part of his everyday training, not just reserving these commands for situations like you describe.

He should learn these commands very quickly, retreivers are intelligent, and see them as fun so won't be so adverse to them when you do need to use them. It will also stimulate him mentally.

Don't make a big issue of the stolen item he has, the more you want it the more he will value and guard it, distract him with something else like a toy and get really excited over YOUR item, thereby devaluing his.

Having regards to the table where he hides you could try teaching him to target your hand, touching it with his nose on command or alternatively, block off his access under the table so he can't get under there at all. Lastly, *leave him alone* when he's eating. There's no need for you or anyone else to be near him whem he's eating.

2. The biting in play sounds more like over excitement to me because he's clearly under stimulated so palytime is a big thing and he gets carried away. Any teeth on skin at all, end the game and walk away.

3. Bolt is bored. I understand that you have to work and have no problem with that, I work full time too BUT Bolt is a very intelligent working breed and he needs a job. He needs more much more excercise and mental stimulation.

Walk him early for longer than you usually do before you leave for work. Consider getting him a backpack or panniers so he can carry his toys in it or your stuff on the way to the park and let him run and play when he gets there. A tired dog is usually a good dog 

Stuff a Kong toy and put it in the freezer overnight then give it to him before you leave for work to distract him and tire him out. There are also games that you can get where you hide a treat and the dog has to work out how to get it. Anything that can stimulate him mentally will be a good thing. Do nightly training sessions with him and make sure he get's decent walks every day. Two good walks are better than 4 short ones.

You have a young active dog who needs time and effort put into him to help him beome a balanced, well adjusted social dog. If you do not have the tme that he need then you should consider rehoming him through a reputable rescue organisation


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## speug (Nov 1, 2011)

Daneandrottiemum said:


> Walk him early for longer than you usually do before you leave for work. Consider getting him a backpack or panniers so he can carry his toys in it or your stuff on the way to the park and let him run and play when he gets there. A tired dog is usually a good dog


most of your advice is good and helpful but I wouldn't be getting a 10month old puppy to carry things in a backpack or panniers while he is still growing - too much of a risk it might damage his joints. If he was older then it might be a good idea but not at his age.

to the OP and brother - your dog *needs* excercise - not wants, not would like but *needs*, he needs a chance to run outside and to smell the different scents. If you really can't between you all fit in a couple of 30min walks in the day then seriously consider paying a dog walker to do it for you. Your dog will be much better behaved for having had a chance to be a dog.


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## Burrowzig (Feb 18, 2009)

It seems a lot of the problem (apart from boredom and lack of proper exercise) is around the dog being under the table.

Block it off so he can't go under the table.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

I don't think the original poster(s) realise how much difference stimulation and socialisation can and will make to a dog's overall attitude. Perhaps they think that outside walks and meetings with other dogs and people is purely for the dog's benefit - well it isn't. It is for the owner's benefit as well, particularly in this case. 

OP you should try this first, and not just once, every single day.


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## springerpete (Jun 24, 2010)

I'm no behaviourist, I have no fancy letters to put after my name and untill I joined the forum I'd never heard the phrase 'Resource guarding' I've never had a dog yet that growled at me except during play which I do a lot of with youngsters, I've never had one that was possesive over his food. My method has always been the same, from day one with a new pup I've sat with them when they've been feeding, even handled the food in the bowl, they soon learn that the dont have to guard it from me, I'm not going to take it from them. I'm sure someone is going to come along and tell me that I shouldn't be doing this but It works for me, both of my young dogs wouldn't turn a hair now if you were to come in at feeding time and move their bowls. I do wonder how someone can get a dog as gentle natured as most Goldies are, to become a dog that bites those closest to it. If it were my Flyte I'd be horrified and consider myself to have failed him big time in some way.


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

It's not always a matter of the owner failing them Pete. Shadow was a terrible, terrible food guarder at just 6 weeks old. And I mean he'd really bite you, not just growl or snap. Course all we were told was to become alpha, take his food away, punish him for growling etc and he became quite dangerous with it. Got it somewhat resolved a few months before he died but I'd never have trusted him like I have my others.

I suppose we did fail Shadow in a way, it could have been resolved much sooner if we hadn't followed terrible advice but the original problem wasn't due to anything we did or didn't do.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

springerpete said:


> I'm no behaviourist, I have no fancy letters to put after my name and untill I joined the forum I'd never heard the phrase 'Resource guarding' I've never had a dog yet that growled at me except during play which I do a lot of with youngsters, I've never had one that was possesive over his food. My method has always been the same, from day one with a new pup I've sat with them when they've been feeding, even handled the food in the bowl, they soon learn that the dont have to guard it from me, I'm not going to take it from them. I'm sure someone is going to come along and tell me that I shouldn't be doing this but It works for me, both of my young dogs wouldn't turn a hair now if you were to come in at feeding time and move their bowls. I do wonder how someone can get a dog as gentle natured as most Goldies are, to become a dog that bites those closest to it. If it were my Flyte I'd be horrified and consider myself to have failed him big time in some way.


I see nothing wrong in sticking your hand in the bowl if it is necessary, like to add something or if you see something that shouldn't be there! You know, like the odd egg shell one of them had dripping off his jaw that I didn't notice. It is when people think it is ok to take the dog's food away, because of some daft pack leader idea, that resource guarding occurs.

I can get my hand in their bowls, even Diva's, if their big heads weren't in the way.

As you say, goldies are wonderful natured dogs though judging from my one, they can be a bit possessive, but it is never nasty.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

Sarah1983 said:


> It's not always a matter of the owner failing them Pete. Shadow was a terrible, terrible food guarder at just 6 weeks old. And I mean he'd really bite you, not just growl or snap. Course all we were told was to become alpha, take his food away, punish him for growling etc and he became quite dangerous with it. Got it somewhat resolved a few months before he died but I'd never have trusted him like I have my others.
> 
> I suppose we did fail Shadow in a way, it could have been resolved much sooner if we hadn't followed terrible advice but the original problem wasn't due to anything we did or didn't do.


No, but if the breeder let him go at six weeks, they probably didn't bother to make sure he was getting his fair share. I expect he had to fight off the other pups, so it was only natural. Obviously could have been solved very easily with the right methods, but you weren't to know that.


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## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

abhyudaya12 said:


> hi i have a golden retriever, BOLT ,of age around 9 months. we brought him in as a small pup he wasn't aggressive at first until when he was about 6 months he bit me when i tried to take my sock from him. but i figured that was because he was playing with it so had got angry. after that he was normal until a few months back when he developed this habit of growling. if he steals anything he will straight away go under the table and sit there with his loot and if even try coming near him hell give us the worst stare and will start growling really bad. this is getting a trouble now because if hes under the table and we want to even clean the place he starts growling. and we can't do anything because of the fear of getting bitten. we have a trainer who says that if he growls hit him a little but i don't think that would ever help this. we have a domestic help who used to irritate him a lot making him more aggressive so i kept a check on that and his growling had stopped for a while but now i see hes back on the old track. i love him a lot and i don't want my parents to send him away because of this. please help.
> 
> its only that particular place under the table where he gets really angry and growly . else hes a really playful dog and very cheerful with everyone he meets.


Next time you see the trainer take a baseball bat or similar and hit the trainer a little bit with it!!:

Hitting a dog or forceably trying to take things when he has something is only going to do one thing, teach him even more that he should protect the item he is resource guarding and that he does have to defend "it" and himself.

If the domestic help used to goad and tease him too or try to take things from him its likely where he learned the behaviour in the first place.

At 6mths when all this behaviour started it is a crucial time for a pup. Hormones are starting to kick in and they do start to push at boundaries and see what they can get away with, but it can also be a time between 6 and 14mths when they can enter a fear period too when sights sounds and situations that didnt bother them before can start to again. Handled wrongly it can cause problems, handled rightly the time can pass without too much hassle.

You need to teach him that he doesnt have to guard things. You can start to do this by giving him things that he quite likes and finds OK but are not his most favourite. It appears its got so bad now when he has his loot as you call it you cant even approach now. So first thing is to teach him that approaching is good not bad. Try as best as you can to keep all things he shouldnt have out of his way so the chances of him stealing are reduced. Give him something he quite likes but is not a high favourite so he wont class as really high value. give it to him and leave him with it under the table if he wants. You need to have treats and food pieces he really loves, chicken, cheese, hotdogs sausages, find out his most favourite couple of things, and when he is under the table, walk past not looking at him talking to him nothing ignore him but as you pass throw gently and slowly in his direction bits of this favourite food. Keep doing it regularly for as long as it takes until he stops the growling, still ignore him but where at first you give him an exta wide birth as you go past and throw them, work over time at his pace and within his comfort zone to being able to pass closer. When you can get close to throw them as you pass with out growling, start speaking to him softly, if after this a few times he is ok, try looking at him, as you throw them, and then work up to standing there and talking to him and throwing him the treats.

Once you have got to this stage and if you dont already, try doing some short training sessions with him on a daily basis. Use treats and teach him how to sit and down and all the basics, praise him when he gets it right and treat heavily at first, in this way he should begin to bond and trust you and it will also build his confidence in the right way.

The ideal scenario is that once you have got his focus and trust with training plus you can approach him when he has something wthout growling. You then work up to getting him to swop things for something better. You need to still give him something that he likes but finds quite mundane and swop it for a treat of chew or toy or something he likes better. Show him or let him know you have the better object when he has his, and if he drops it as he is dropping it say drop (this way he is learning a command too) and then give him the higher value treat, chew or toy in exchange. You need to work up to this last exercise though, and do it only after he is happy with your approach when he has something and after you have established a bond and done some reward based training.

He has been a longtime getting to the situation he is at the moment, so its not going to be an overnight fix, its going to need a lot of work over time and you have to do it slowly at his pace. With time and patience though you should begin to see progress that you can build on.


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## springerpete (Jun 24, 2010)

Sarah1983 said:


> It's not always a matter of the owner failing them Pete. Shadow was a terrible, terrible food guarder at just 6 weeks old. And I mean he'd really bite you, not just growl or snap. Course all we were told was to become alpha, take his food away, punish him for growling etc and he became quite dangerous with it. Got it somewhat resolved a few months before he died but I'd never have trusted him like I have my others.
> 
> I suppose we did fail Shadow in a way, it could have been resolved much sooner if we hadn't followed terrible advice but the original problem wasn't due to anything we did or didn't do.


I'm sorry if I sounded as though I was being patronising or trying to apportion blame, that's really not my way. I just wanted to point out the way I resolve these issues. I do think that removing his food only makes them more possesive over it however. Most young pups will show possesive tendencies over food, they've just left the litter where feeding time can be something of a free for all, all I try and do is show them that they no longer have to worry about their meal being taken from them or eaten by a litter mate, perhaps I'm being simplistic in my approach, but as I've said, I could go and stick my face into either of my dogs bowls and they'd do no more than look puzzled.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

springerpete said:


> I'm sorry if I sounded as though I was being patronising or trying to apportion blame, that's really not my way. I just wanted to point out the way I resolve these issues. I do think that removing his food only makes them more possesive over it however. Most young pups will show possesive tendencies over food, they've just left the litter where feeding time can be something of a free for all, all I try and do is show them that they no longer have to worry about their meal being taken from them or eaten by a litter mate, perhaps I'm being simplistic in my approach, but as I've said, I could go and stick my face into either of my dogs bowls and they'd do no more than look puzzled.


Simplistic is usually the most successful way, don't you think? It seems to me that everyone makes dog training far too complicated nowadays, when all that is needed is a bit of dog knowledge and common sense.


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## springerpete (Jun 24, 2010)

newfiesmum said:


> Simplistic is usually the most successful way, don't you think? It seems to me that everyone makes dog training far too complicated nowadays, when all that is needed is a bit of dog knowledge and common sense.


It works for me, with regard to the post, most pups, as I said, are greedy and possesvive over food initially, they've had to compete in no small way with their siblings, at eight weeks if I get a puppy growl over the bowl I just ignore it and make reassuring noises, at that age they'rer hardly likely to attack me, in no time they get used to the fact that neither my wife, for she'll do exactly the same thing, or I pose a threat to the meal, in fact I think they begin to find our ability to scrape out the little bits of food they cant quite get at a bonus.


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## Guest (Apr 19, 2012)

Its all well and good to start out right with a puppy but the dog in question is not a puppy and the owners in question didn't know how to do it right from the get-go, so now we're in fix-it mode with an 11 month old dog who has had apparently plenty of time and opportunities to practice undesirable behavior.
Hugely different set of rules than what you do when a puppy comes home at 8 weeks 

At this point this is an ingrained aggression issue due to resource guarding, and honestly OP, you're going to need professional help. This is not something you want to tackle on your own. Not if you like your fingers that is.

1. You need to learn dog body language and learn the dog's cues, which are probably more subtle and a bit messed up since they've been ignored all this time.
2. You need to establish trust with the dog, a common language (training) and develop a desire within the dog to cooperate (relationship).
3. You need to set the dog up to succeed by managing his environment. Block his hiding areas, don't leave things out for him to guard. Up his exercise and give him mental stimulation so he doesn't have a bunch of unproductive, nervous energy pent up. 
4. You need to educate yourself on the breed and the physical and mental needs of the breed.
5. You need to educate yourself on dog behavior in general and on resource guarding specifically. I really like Jean Donaldson's "Mine", a short read but invaluable for those dealing with this type of aggression. I believe this one has already been suggested.
For dog behavior in general, "The other end of the Leash" by P. McConnell is a great one, as are "The Culture Clash" by Donaldson and "Bones would rain from the sky" by Clothier.

Good luck to you.


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

springerpete said:


> I'm sorry if I sounded as though I was being patronising or trying to apportion blame, that's really not my way. I just wanted to point out the way I resolve these issues. I do think that removing his food only makes them more possesive over it however. Most young pups will show possesive tendencies over food, they've just left the litter where feeding time can be something of a free for all, all I try and do is show them that they no longer have to worry about their meal being taken from them or eaten by a litter mate, perhaps I'm being simplistic in my approach, but as I've said, I could go and stick my face into either of my dogs bowls and they'd do no more than look puzzled.


Ah sorry, it sounded as though you were saying it's always the owners fault if they have a resource guarder. I can understand possessive tendencies in a young pup but Shadow was way overboard compared to other pups I've seen and of course we made it worse rather than better. He got to the point where you only had to move while he was eating and he'd go rigid and snarl.

Rupert used to insist on me holding the tub whenever we got him an ice cream from the ice cream van. And any awkward shaped bones he got. Spencer brings me his Kong to tell me he wants help getting the food out. Nor did he protest at me taking away part of a cooked chicken yesterday. I think if I fell in Spencers bowl I'd be eaten before he realised I wasn't food though lol. One food guarder has been enough for me and I purposely take steps to try to prevent it now.


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## springerpete (Jun 24, 2010)

Quesi, I'm sure you're right, what do I know?


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## Guest (Apr 19, 2012)

Sarah1983 said:


> Ah sorry, it sounded as though you were saying it's always the owners fault if they have a resource guarder. I can understand possessive tendencies in a young pup but Shadow was way overboard compared to other pups I've seen and of course we made it worse rather than better. He got to the point where you only had to move while he was eating and he'd go rigid and snarl.
> 
> Rupert used to insist on me holding the tub whenever we got him an ice cream from the ice cream van. And any awkward shaped bones he got. Spencer brings me his Kong to tell me he wants help getting the food out. Nor did he protest at me taking away part of a cooked chicken yesterday. I think if I fell in Spencers bowl I'd be eaten before he realised I wasn't food though lol. One food guarder has been enough for me and I purposely take steps to try to prevent it now.


I think its like anything, every dog is a little different about it. Our female dane who we've had since she was a pup, is a royal bitch about guarding with the other dogs but is beyond blasé about it with humans. 
Our other dane was nearly PTS for massive guarding issues with humans (like climb up the assess-a-hand at the shelter and tried to eat the human holding it), but has always been very relaxed with other dogs near his food. Our other two dogs are relaxed around humans but more of what I would consider "normal" around dogs - as in keep a polite distance.

FWIW, that dane who used to be so bad is now perfectly safe around food and any other resource. IMO this is a *very* fixable issue if you know how to do it effectively, and of course if you take the time to fix it


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## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

abhyank said:


> Hey guys,
> I am the brother of the guy who posted the thread in the first place, well to update you all my dog has grown hes around 10-11 months old nw, we have changed his trainer who seems a little more able, the problem is nw tht hes grown he has become a little more amicable but at the same time very unpredictable too, at times it seems he has a split personality dis order, he has bitten almost all members of our family....including me just today morning(sigh) the biting happened earlier whn seemingly it was a fault of our own tht is we came close when he was feeding etc, but since the past 2 instances he has bitten us even when we were playing around with him, i really cant understand why...is he feeling threatened?? at night he gets really territorial growling at anyone who comes close to him beneath the table.....we manage to get things out of his grasp by giving him treats...but his unpredictable behavior is rattling us now....the one reason i can figure out after reading your posts is that he is not getting much exercise....all of us are working and we dont get time to run arnd with him apart frm his normal walks 4 times a day to allow him to urinate outside.....we dont keep him chained hes free to roam around the house so i really cant understand wht to do nw.....please help i really dont want to send him away.....


I had already posted and didnt see your update. A golden retrever is a working dog a gun dog to be precise. A dog is also a social creature and to become well rounded he needs leadership in the form of regular daily exercise, socialisation and regular training. At his age he is an adolsecent dog who needs on going training and needs to be taught what is expected of him.
Bad behaviours can come from lack of physical and mental stimulation and socialisation alone. If you dont want him to go the only way, is to step up and put the work in with exercise training and behaviour modification.. If you feel that you lack experence and are not sure how, then get in a decent trainer who uses firm kind fair reward based training. In not sure where you are located an Ive a feeling its not the UK but if you look at these sites although they may be no good to you as they dont cover where you live as regards to finding a trainer it should give you clues what criteria you need to look for in one CAPBT - COAPE Association of Pet Behaviourists and Trainers for behaviourists, Welcome to APDT - Association of Pet Dog Trainers UK for trainers. If you are not sure how to train then you need a one to one trainer or to go for training classes.

Without your input and effort the dog isnt going to suddenly get better on his own. Its also pointless getting a good behaviourist or trainer if you are not going to do the training and behaviour modification he prescribes either. A behaviourist or trainer can make an assessment and prescribe a training and behaviour modification plan but if its not going to be followed and by all family members and your staff too its pointless.


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## Guest (Apr 19, 2012)

springerpete said:


> Quesi, I'm sure you're right, what do I know?


Not sure what you're asking, but didn't want to seem rude by ignoring your post.

I guess its just a different perspective? Someone who spends more time raising puppies is going to have a different view of resource guarding than someone who spends more time working with adult rescues who already have many issues with humans. Preventing the problem vs. dealing with the problem once it has taken hold?


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

ouesi said:


> I think its like anything, every dog is a little different about it. Our female dane who we've had since she was a pup, is a royal bitch about guarding with the other dogs but is beyond blasé about it with humans.
> Our other dane was nearly PTS for massive guarding issues with humans (like climb up the assess-a-hand at the shelter and tried to eat the human holding it), but has always been very relaxed with other dogs near his food. Our other two dogs are relaxed around humans but more of what I would consider "normal" around dogs - as in keep a polite distance.
> 
> FWIW, that dane who used to be so bad is now perfectly safe around food and any other resource. IMO this is a *very* fixable issue if you know how to do it effectively, and of course if you take the time to fix it


Oh I've no doubt I could have gotten Shadow reasonably safe around food but he died before we got that far. I did get to the point where I could stand near him tossing bits of chicken or other extra yummy stuff towards him without him threatening to eat me though.


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## RAINYBOW (Aug 27, 2009)

ouesi said:


> Its all well and good to start out right with a puppy but the dog in question is not a puppy and the owners in question didn't know how to do it right from the get-go, so now we're in fix-it mode with an 11 month old dog who has had apparently plenty of time and opportunities to practice undesirable behavior.
> Hugely different set of rules than what you do when a puppy comes home at 8 weeks
> 
> At this point this is an ingrained aggression issue due to resource guarding, and honestly OP, you're going to need professional help. This is not something you want to tackle on your own. Not if you like your fingers that is.
> ...


Given my own experience this i excellent advice 

Learning the dogs body language is key with Resource Guarding, reduce the incidents and rebuild trust. If you give the dog a very high value item like a bone to chew LEAVE the dog with it, hand feed to build confidence, drop high value items IN the bowl every now and then whilst they are eating when the dog is comfortable enough for you to be in the vacinity. Make it impossible for the dog to get under furniture (Oscar used to do this making it hard to deal with him but i had him on a short line by then so i could "lead" him out from under thiings rather than having to grab him which is much less confrontational and lessens the fear from the dog that you are going for the item they have)

Also be aware that dogs can RG things like an area of the house, their bed, the sofa etc. Only by understanding their body language can you spot the signs and use distraction to prevent a bite.

I really dont like giving advice on RG though because if mismanaged you can end up rewarding the behaviour and making it worse or pushing the dog too soon and again making it worse so i still maintain you ned propr one to one help.

A dog that has a tendancy to RG must always be watched even when you think it has disappeared. I am still very careful with Oscar even though he has amazing bite inhibition and he is never allowed high value items round the children.


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

is he desexed? 
if not, i'd recommend it ASAP; reducing testosterone reduces aggro of all types, & considerably 
reduces the risk of severe bites - it will not *eliminate* RG, it only reduces the severity 
of aggro, but i think any advantage, at this point, would be helpful, don't U?

at 9 to 10-MO, male dogs hit their peak of testosterone secretion: 
a 9 to 10-MO male produces _*five to seven TIMES the amount of testosterone
produced by a 12 to 15-MO intact male dog.*_ Yes, U read that correctly - 
see the DogStarDaily website for an informative article by Dunbar on hypersexuality in teen 
male dogs; sex & breeding / aggro was his specialty, when he did research for about 20-years.

unfortunately, this is -PAR- for Goldens; IOW, resource-guarding is common within the breed.

neither breeders nor rescue-groups will usually mention RG, however; the "myth" of Goldens being 
self-training, adoring, gentle, sweet, utterly problem-free once they're HOUSETRAINED is just that:

a bloody be-dam*ed myth, which needs to be buried deeply after we drive a stake thru its deathless heart.

:nono: It's pure B-S, & the sooner folks learn that Goldens are _*just dogs,*_ with the same potential 
for approved, horrid, or indifferent behavior as any other dog, PLUS a strong breed-tendency to RG, 
the better off we humans & the Goldens of the world will be, IMO & IME.


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## JulianaEvans (Apr 20, 2012)

I have a golden retriever puppy right now and they are extremely easy to train, but the flip side of that coin is that if they do not receive constant physical and mental challenge and stimulation they become bored, which can lead to behavior problems.

It doesn't sound like your dog is aggressive; it is bored. Goldens need plenty of exercise, simply running around the back yard is likely not enough and your golden isn't getting enough interaction. You need to have small training sessions throughout the day and at least an hour to an hour and a half of exercise time every day, either running around a dog park, going jogging with you, playing fetch, a long walk, roller blading, anything physically challenging.

There are a few things you can teach your pup that will go a long way with helping these behavior problems. Make your pup sit for EVERYTHING. Treats, it has to sit and calm down first, affection, it has to sit first, toys, it has to sit first...

When it comes to feeding time, put your pup's food in a bowl and make the pup sit. Tell the pup to STAY and set the bowl of food down. When the pup goes for the food say NO, pick up the food and put the pup back where it was, repeat until the pup stay without touching the food. Then in a happy cheerful voice say OK and point to the food, giving the pup the cue that it is ok to have the food. Do this at every single meal time and increase the time you make your pup wait. This will be a good mental challenge and training opportunity. It will reinforce your position as pack leader.

If you ever play tug of war with your pup or anything like that, do not let the pup win. When you're done you must make the pup let go of the toy, I use the "drop" command, then take the toy away. Do not simply release the toy and let the pup run off with it, this reinforces its position as the dominant one.

You don't have a bad dog, you simply have a bored dog in need of more stimulation and activity to be happy and healthy.

Also, the happy peeing you're talking about is likely submissive peeing. When you approach your pup or anyone else does do not look at it, do not touch it and do not talk to it. Completely ignore it!! Then after a few minutes when the dog is no longer paying attention to you or anyone else, kneel down with your back to the pup so it can come over and you can pet it. Do not bend at the wait so you're looming over the dog, this is what most people do, this will only add to the peeing problem. Make sure every guest in your home and every member of your family does this. Believe me it will help the problem.

Golden are wonderful dogs, but they can be challenging if you don't challenge them enough. They need rigorous physical and mental activity.

Best of luck!


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

leashedForLife said:


> is he desexed?
> if not, i'd recommend it ASAP; reducing testosterone reduces aggro of all types, & considerably
> reduces the risk of severe bites - it will not *eliminate* RG, it only reduces the severity
> of aggro, but i think any advantage, at this point, would be helpful, don't U?
> ...


I agree and I have been saying all along that they can be possessive over things, even my dopey old goldie.



JulianaEvans said:


> I have a golden retriever puppy right now and they are extremely easy to train, but the flip side of that coin is that if they do not receive constant physical and mental challenge and stimulation they become bored, which can lead to behavior problems.
> 
> It doesn't sound like your dog is aggressive; it is bored. Goldens need plenty of exercise, simply running around the back yard is likely not enough and your golden isn't getting enough interaction. You need to have small training sessions throughout the day and at least an hour to an hour and a half of exercise time every day, either running around a dog park, going jogging with you, playing fetch, a long walk, roller blading, anything physically challenging.
> 
> ...


Taking food away from a resource guarder will increase the problem and likely get you bitten, especially from a dog that has already been known to bite. This is what causes resource guarding in the first place.

Dogs do not live in packs with a "leader", this has proved over and over again and is way out of date thinking. Besides which, we are not dogs and the dogs know that.


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## noogsy (Aug 20, 2009)

hi i havent read all the posts,
but my labbie went through a naughty faze,
i had to go strict with his obedience training.
i didnt hit him or punish him 
i had a pocket of his food with tiny bits of cold meat mixed in.
and i did small but often training with him through out the day.
i increased his walks,to more short walks,and got a pyramid and kongs going to relieve his bordom.he has turned out to be a wonderful trusted dog.have a look at gwen baileys books,hell on 4 paws is good and about a labbie :O) called chesil.good luck with your dog.
just adding getting your dog deballed would be a good idea xxdesexed is better than put to sleep.


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## Guest (Apr 20, 2012)

leashedForLife said:


> PLUS a strong breed-tendency to RG,


No kidding...? Didn't know this was a breed trait, but I sure have known a lot of goldens who are either iffy about resources or outright guarders. It always made me kind of raise my eyebrows since goldens are supposed to be such great family dogs.



JulianaEvans said:


> When it comes to feeding time, put your pup's food in a bowl and make the pup sit. Tell the pup to STAY and set the bowl of food down. When the pup goes for the food say NO, pick up the food and put the pup back where it was, repeat until the pup stay without touching the food. Then in a happy cheerful voice say OK and point to the food, giving the pup the cue that it is ok to have the food. Do this at every single meal time and increase the time you make your pup wait. This will be a good mental challenge and training opportunity. It will reinforce your position as pack leader.
> 
> If you ever play tug of war with your pup or anything like that, do not let the pup win. When you're done you must make the pup let go of the toy, I use the "drop" command, then take the toy away. Do not simply release the toy and let the pup run off with it, this reinforces its position as the dominant one.


Oh wow....
Hi there Juliana. Welcome to the 21st century where we know that the earth is not flat and dogs do not need "pack leaders" and you can play tug with your dog and even let him win :
I wouldn't be so sarcastic if not for your spam link that leads to even more nonsense like this:


> A lot of people recommend the use of the clicker. This is a type of device that will make a clicking sound. This usually gets the dogs attention and it usually alerts them of something that needs to be done. If ever you do not want to bring a clicker all the time, you can always make use of the finger snap. It may not be the same as the clicker but the effect is just as great.


Seriously? A clicker is an attention getting device? 
Get educated before you start handing out advice and getting people bitten and dogs PTS. Blergh...


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

ouesi said:


> No kidding...? Didn't know this was a breed trait, but I sure have known a lot of goldens who are either iffy about resources or outright guarders. It always made me kind of raise my eyebrows since goldens are supposed to be such great family dogs.


I've seen a lot of people on a golden group I'm part of mentioning that they're seeing more and more goldens with resource guarding issues and what a shame it is because they really shouldn't be like that.

However, most of them seem to feel electric collars are needed to train them


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## Guest (Apr 20, 2012)

Sarah1983 said:


> I've seen a lot of people on a golden group I'm part of mentioning that they're seeing more and more goldens with resource guarding issues and what a shame it is because they really shouldn't be like that.
> 
> However, most of them seem to feel electric collars are needed to train them


I wonder if it is part of the retrieving trait that has been bastardized through irresponsible breeding.
Gotta love how people think you need that kind of tool for a dog as biddable as a retriever.

A little OT, but there is a great article written by a long time gun-dog trainer about how damaging to the breed in general forceful methods of training are.


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

are sadly, very very common. 

an extremely-popular MATADOR SIRE introduced the behavior, which is highly heritable, 
& 20 years and more on, it is virtually everywhere in the breed. :nonod:


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

ouesi said:


> I wonder if it is part of the retrieving trait that has been bastardized through irresponsible breeding.
> Gotta love how people think you need that kind of tool for a dog as biddable as a retriever.
> 
> A little OT, but there is a great article written by a long time gun-dog trainer about how damaging to the breed in general forceful methods of training are.


Ooh, do you know who it was by or have a link to it? Don't think I've read that.

I suppose resource guarding could be linked to the retrieving trait. I know people have said it seems to be becoming more and more popular but I don't know much about goldens, don't seem to see many of them around to be honest. The only two I know in real life look more like Pyrs than Goldens, huge and white.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

ouesi said:


> No kidding...? Didn't know this was a breed trait, but I sure have known a lot of goldens who are either iffy about resources or outright guarders. It always made me kind of raise my eyebrows since goldens are supposed to be such great family dogs.
> 
> Oh wow....
> Hi there Juliana. Welcome to the 21st century where we know that the earth is not flat and dogs do not need "pack leaders" and you can play tug with your dog and even let him win :
> ...


It is a great pity that anyone can spout nonsense on a website, just like any one with enough savvy and charm can become an international dog trainer, without knowing the first thing about dogs.

Julianna, before you start giving advice about clicker training, I suggest you read Karen Pryors book. A finger snap is just as good? It is to draw attention? I never heard such utter BS in my life.



Sarah1983 said:


> I've seen a lot of people on a golden group I'm part of mentioning that they're seeing more and more goldens with resource guarding issues and what a shame it is because they really shouldn't be like that.
> 
> However, most of them seem to feel electric collars are needed to train them


Even my old retriever, Sammy, guarded when he was a puppy, when it was nipped in the bud and I had no further problems until I went on holiday and left my daughter in charge. He was not allowed on the furniture because it was cloth and he was hairy, but when we came back, he was definitely guarding that sofa with a vengeance!



Sarah1983 said:


> Ooh, do you know who it was by or have a link to it? Don't think I've read that.
> 
> I suppose resource guarding could be linked to the retrieving trait. I know people have said it seems to be becoming more and more popular but I don't know much about goldens, don't seem to see many of them around to be honest. The only two I know in real life look more like Pyrs than Goldens, huge and white.


Funny you should say that. When Sammy was a puppy he was almost white and everyone in the vet's waiting room thought he was a Pyrenean. I even had a couple of people out walking ask me if he was a Pyrenean puppy, when he was full grown! He was a little on the large side, and quite pale, so perhaps that was it.


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## RAINYBOW (Aug 27, 2009)

I have to say that i was under the impression this was something that was not uncommon in Goldies.

I think breeding probably plays a part.

When i had my issue with oscar my trainer also said this is something he was seeing more often in cockers too that hadn't been there previously


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

Sarah1983 said:


> ...I don't know much about Goldens, don't... see many of them around TBH.
> The only two [Goldens] I know IRL look more like Pyrs than Goldens, huge & white.


big blocky heads, massive bodies like 2/3 size Newfies with less coat, cream colored, black noses?

tab ears? [folded forward triangles with a rounded tip] rather than a soft oval?

if so, they're *Brit show-type*, very popular in California as pets in the USA, also popular in the show-ring.








the classic wheaten-blonde, mid-sized Golden with moderate coat & feather is the Midwestern type. 








the 2/3 size, reddish-blond Goldens are New England / northeast USA type, & often hunting lines.


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## Sarah1983 (Nov 2, 2011)

newfiesmum said:


> Funny you should say that. When Sammy was a puppy he was almost white and everyone in the vet's waiting room thought he was a Pyrenean. I even had a couple of people out walking ask me if he was a Pyrenean puppy, when he was full grown! He was a little on the large side, and quite pale, so perhaps that was it.


These two are enormous. Rupert was around 24 inches at the shoulder and they absolutely dwarfed him. They're built more like Pyreneans too but apparently they're pedigree Goldens.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

Sarah1983 said:


> These two are enormous. Rupert was around 24 inches at the shoulder and they absolutely dwarfed him. They're built more like Pyreneans too but apparently they're pedigree Goldens.


Yep,that's my Sammy. Looked just like the top picture that Terry posted. I didn't mind because I wanted a giant breed, but the old man wouldn't have it, which is why I chose the biggest goldie I could find!


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## Guest (Apr 20, 2012)

Sarah, I'll start a different thread for the article you asked for  Don't want to totally highjack this thread!


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## rubyblacklab (Apr 24, 2012)

We see sudden aggression in birds, especially parrots when they become calcium deficient. Have a look at her diet, is she really getting enough? If the aggression is a new thing there must be something underlying. Modern dog foods significantly lack calcium. As she is ageing, her bones may be absorbing most of her blood calcium and therefore depriving the brain. This will cause a chemical imbalance and you will see many behavioural problems. 

Think about supplementing her feed with a good quality chelated calcium supplement (more easily absorbed into the body than a carbonate etc) and within a few weeks her behaviour should start to improve. It's worth a try and could save her life and you a lot of stress! Cool, Calm & Collected is a good one but you man know of others...

hope it helps


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## smokeybear (Oct 19, 2011)

rubyblacklab said:


> We see sudden aggression in birds, especially parrots when they become calcium deficient. Have a look at her diet, is she really getting enough? If the aggression is a new thing there must be something underlying. Modern dog foods significantly lack calcium. As she is ageing, her bones may be absorbing most of her blood calcium and therefore depriving the brain. This will cause a chemical imbalance and you will see many behavioural problems.
> 
> Think about supplementing her feed with a good quality chelated calcium supplement (more easily absorbed into the body than a carbonate etc) and within a few weeks her behaviour should start to improve. It's worth a try and could save her life and you a lot of stress! Cool, Calm & Collected is a good one but you man know of others...
> 
> hope it helps


Please do NOT add a calcium supplement to your dog's diet except under veterinary supervision. Calcium in excess can be very dangerous.


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## Guest (Apr 24, 2012)

smokeybear said:


> Please do NOT add a calcium supplement to your dog's diet except under veterinary supervision. Calcium in excess can be very dangerous.


Especially in a growing large breed dog.


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

rubyblacklab said:


> We see sudden aggression in birds, especially parrots when they become calcium deficient. Have a look at her diet, is she really getting enough? If the aggression is a new thing there must be something underlying. Modern dog foods significantly lack calcium. As she is ageing, her bones may be absorbing most of her blood calcium and therefore depriving the brain. This will cause a chemical imbalance and you will see many behavioural problems.
> 
> Think about supplementing her feed with a good quality chelated calcium supplement (more easily absorbed into the body than a carbonate etc) and within a few weeks her behaviour should start to improve. It's worth a try and could save her life and you a lot of stress! Cool, Calm & Collected is a good one but you man know of others...
> 
> hope it helps


I can't believe I am reading this. Is this serious advice, or what? Adding extra calcium to a growing large dog can cripple him, permanently.


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## RAINYBOW (Aug 27, 2009)

newfiesmum said:


> I can't believe I am reading this. Is this serious advice, or what? Adding extra calcium to a growing large dog can cripple him, permanently.


Might be worth asking the poster to edit or remove the post or a MOD 

I am sure they would if they realised the advice was dangerous


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

R-B-L has, so far, recommended calcium-supps for: 
- a fearful adult-Beagle adopted from a shelter 
- this young Golden who resource-guards, a known breed flaw 
- a dog with Sep-Anx [according to the owner]

i wonder if calcium-supps cure cancer, extend lifespan, & purify our auras? :skep:



rubyblacklab said:


> We see sudden aggression in birds, especially parrots when they become calcium deficient. Have a look at her diet, is she really getting enough? If the aggression is a new thing there must be something underlying. Modern dog foods significantly lack calcium. As she is ageing, her bones may be absorbing most of her blood calcium and therefore depriving the brain. This will cause a chemical imbalance and you will see many behavioural problems.
> 
> Think about supplementing her feed with a good quality chelated calcium supplement (more easily absorbed into the body than a carbonate etc) and within a few weeks her behaviour should start to improve. It's worth a try and could save her life and you a lot of stress! Cool, Calm & Collected is a good one but you man know of others...
> 
> hope it helps


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

leashedForLife said:


> R-B-L has, so far, recommended calcium-supps for:
> - a fearful adult-Beagle adopted from a shelter
> - this young Golden who resource-guards, a known breed flaw
> - a dog with Sep-Anx [according to the owner]
> ...


So is she trying to sell the stuff, no matter what the cost to the dogs' health? People should not give out medical advice if they are not qualified to do so, and even then not without seeing the animal in question.


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