# Sticky  Important information for new rabbit owners



## Kammie

Right here we have it the final complete (almost) list of everything a new rabbit owner will need to know.

For all those new rabbit owners this is a bank of all the knowledge shared between us rabbit people on this forum, it is well worth a good read and will tell you all you need for a first time owner.

*Ideal hutch size:* 
- Any rabbit hutch you get should be a MINIMUM of 6ft x 2ft x 2ft, heres a link to a thread detailing the ideal living space more including some pictures of what we on the forums use http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/53724-rabbit-accommodation.html.

*Ideal run size:* 
- Rabbits should have access to a run all day long not just in evenings, the size depends on the breed, however it is important to let your rabbits out of their run daily so they can have a proper run around and binky(jump mid air, this is very fun to watch). The majority of rabbit rescues will only re-home a small/medium rabbit to you if it has a run no smaller than 4ft x6ft which should be attached to the hutch and for 2 small/medium rabbits 6ft x 6ft. additionally the rabbit should be able to stand on its back legs, so a height of at least 2 foot is required depending on breed. By attaching the run to the hutch the rabbit is less likely to have territorial behaviour problems. A large rabbit such as French Lop, English Lop and Continental Giant will require a much larger run and it is because of this they can be more suited to house rabbits. Additionally it is important that even a small/medium house rabbit has access to a space at least the size of runs stated above, a kitchen or spare bedroom is ideal for the entire day not just in evening. This gives an idea of just how much space a bunny needs to really go all out and have fun YouTube - The REAL "Energizer Bunny".

*Best type of bedding for bun:*
- Saw dust and wood shavings from pine or cedar should NEVER be used, heres the reason Cedar and Pine Wood Shavings - Problems and Toxicity
- Hay is probably by far the best bedding, its soft and comfortable plus they can snack on it. Meadow hay and Timothy hay are the best to get.
- Newspaper can be ok as a kind of underlay to protect the bottom of the hutch from poo being stuck to it but needs something on top or bunny with have a very hard bed.
- Straw is good for bedding too but can sometimes be a bit course and not as soft as hay. It also provides good insulation during the winter months.

*Caring for bun in winter:*
- Pets at home advice, Pets at Home â€" where pets come first *-* Rabbit Care in Winter
- Rabbit Rehome advice, Rabbit Rehome - Adopt a unwanted bunny from a rescue centre
- Please use both sites for advice as pets at home may be bias towards you buying their products for winter care, whereas Rabbit Rehome gives general advice.

*Feeding, fruit, veg, plants. Good and bad:* 
- As a general rule for how much to feed bunny I was told by my vet the following: 
* If feeding twice a day on pellets the bunny should eat all pellets within 5 mins, any left after this time or if bunny walks away from it then you've fed too much,
* If feeding twice a day the pellets should be gone within 2 mins, again any left after this time or ignored by bunny means you've given too much,
* Veg should be given daily, enough should be given that its all eaten within 10 mins, any left after this time or bunny walks away from means too much was given,
* Hay and water should be unlimited all day everyday,
* To put bunny on the right amount of food gradually reduce the quantity until food is eaten in the times stated.

- General advice on food: http://www.beechwoodvets.com/html/pdf/Factsheets/Otherpets/24_265656.pdf
- Here is a link to a food list that has absolutely everything listed that is good, bad and just ok for the bun http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39071-food-list.html. 
- Heres a link to several articles all with valuable information on food Articles On Pet Rabbits Food And Diet

*Hay, whats the deal?*
Theres a lot of different types of hay out there so its best to look around and find out about the best ype to feed bunny. Theres no point buying the horrible pet shop stuff just because its easy to get. Hay is the most important part of a rabbits diet so they should be given the best of the best.
Meadow hay and bales you can buy cheaply from farms are good for bedding but not the best quality for feeding. Timothy hay is one of the best as a feed and Excel do a forage that has timothy hay mixed with dandilion and marigold. If possible have a sniff of the hay before buying, a good quality hay will smell sweet and fresh whereas a bad hay will smell damp, mouldy or just old and dry. Make sure to get the dust extracted hay where the dust is removed from the hay so the bunnies don't get breathing problems from the dust. Have a look at these sites for an idea on hay, Hay - Dust Free Hay https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk/Hays,+Grasses+%2526+Herbs.4/Select+by+Hay+Type.130/

*Vaccinations needed:* 
(Taken from the RSPCA website) Rabbits need vaccinations to prevent/protect against myxomatosis and Rabbit (Viral) Haemorrhagic Disease (R(V)HD) which cause intense suffering to rabbits.

We strongly recommend vaccinating all rabbits.

• Single vaccines against myxomatosis and RHD cannot be given simultaneously. Myxomatosis boosters are needed every six months. Myxomatosis vaccinations from six weeks. RHD vaccinations at eight weeks.
• Combined vaccines offer annual protection against both diseases. Rabbits can be vaccinated from five weeks.
• Get veterinary advice about the most suitable vaccination course and best ages to vaccinate.

Prevent and Protect

* Give regular boosters throughout life, see your vet.

* Controlling insects may reduce infection risk. Deter flies/mosquitoes e.g. insect-proof screens. Ensure your home and all pets are treated for fleas as advised by your vet. Fleas from cats infect rabbits.

* Regularly clean/disinfect rabbits' enclosure/areas rabbit's access, using rabbit-safe disinfectant. Change bedding/litter regularly. Never use housing/bedding from rabbits infected/suspected to have/have had RHD/myxomatosis.

* Prevent contact with wild/affected domestic rabbits or access to areas where they've been.

Explaining Myxomatosis http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/content/info-sheets/understanding_myxo_feb06.htm

Explaining VHD http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/content/info-sheets/VHD_UK.htm

*Why to neuter:* 
- Males - Stops them spraying, humping, hormonal behaviour.
- Female - stops pseudo (false) pregnancies. 80% of unspayed females over the age of 3 get uterine cancer.

*Common health problems to look out for:* Heres a few links to common illnesses that rabbits may get, some more preventable than others so well worth reading all these links: 
- http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39198-sunffles-pasteurella.html, 
- http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39196-fkystrike.html, 
- http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39094-gi-stasis.html, 
- E.cuniculi info: Untitled Page, 
- All common health problems listed with short summary about each: Rabbits - health problems and illnesses.

*Dental Problems:* Rabbit's teeth continue to grow throughout their life, at a rate of 2-3mm per week. Rabbits require a high fibre diet to ensure the teeth are evenly worn and to prevent overgrowth. If the teeth are not worn down, they grow incorrectly leading to discomfort, abscesses, anorexia, etc. Indication of dental problems may be saliva around the mouth, on the chest or front paws, an inability to eat or teeth grinding.

Srhdufe found the info on here, well worth a good look.. Russel's Guide to Rabbits @ Russel's Guide to Rabbits @ www.petcentreonline.co.uk
*How to handle your rabbit:* 
- As I call it, cup and bum! One hand supporting chest, behind front legs, the other, supporting bum.

*Indoor vs outdoor:* 
- Indoors- More secure against predators, more one to one contact. 
- Outside- more natural, fresher air and freedom to run in a natural environment.
- Indoor setups- minimum of 6ft of space x 4ft. A link on everything you need to know about bunny-proofing your house before letting them loose FAQ: Rabbit Proofing.

*One bun or two: *
- If one rabbit is kept on its own it will need considerably more time spent with it than if you have a pair of rabbits, as you are its only playmate. A bonded pair of rabbits is a really lovely sight and the rabbits have company all the time, making them an all round happier bunny. Take into consideration that they will need much larger accommodation, and all bills will effectively double with a pair.

*Best bonded combination (MM/FF/MF):* 
- While it is possible to keep two males or two females together, it is generally much more difficult than a mixed sex pair.
- Same Sex - Two litter mates tend to get on better than introducing the same sex at a later date, and as always it all depends on the temperament of the rabbit. Having both of the rabbits neutered will help to keep them bonded and/or bond them.
- Mixed Sex - At least the male will have to be neutered in order to stop unwanted pregnancies, and baby buns. It is also often easier, as with same sex pairs, to have both of the rabbits "done" as this makes them less hormonal, so they should get on better plus theres the risk of uterine cancer in females so as said above it is always recommended that females be spayed.
- It is also possible to bond more than two rabbits but it can be considerably harder than with two. Two females and a male is a popular mix, and seem to work well in most cases. Bear in mind that the more rabbits that are bonded together, the bigger the accommodation needs to be!!!

*Why not a guinea pig?* 
- A lot of pet shops will tell you its fine to keep rabbits with guinea pigs for company. This is actually far from the truth rabbits should NEVER be kept with guinea pigs, and heres why:

- Rabbits and guinea pigs eat different types of food even though it looks the same.
- Along with the reason above guinea pigs need a certain amount of vitamin C which rabbits don't therefore the food has different ingredients aimed at their needs.
- Guinea pigs are a lot smaller than most rabbits and could be seriously be injured by the rabbit.
- The best company for a rabbit is another rabbit, nothing elsse will even come close. Rabbits do like human company and can even like a friend guinea pig but at the end of the day a rabbit will prefer company of another rabbit
- Rabbits can harbour Bordetella, harmless to the rabbit, but pathogenic for the guinea pig

*Bunny playtime:* 
- Bunnies are lively, active pets and enjoy having toys to play with. They like things they can pick up in their mouths and throw. You can buy special balls with treats hidden in for them to get out. An inexpensive toy for bunnies is cardboard. Mine love boxes. They can hide in them, climb on them and if all else fails, chew them. They are easily renewed when they get tatty. Many rabbits also like to dig - fulfilling their natural instinct to burrow. Providing a sandpit filled with earth gives bunnies many happy hours digging - they often don't seem to realise they aren't getting anywhere! Also hard baby rattles can be bought at a charity shop or boot sale for approx 10p rabbits love these!
- Little linky of toys you can make yourself at home: Rabbit Rehome - Make Your Own Rabbit Toys

*What does it mean when my rabbit...?:* 
-A rabbits body language and some sounds: Interpreting Body Language and Behavior

*When to take bunny to the vet?*
- First of all the main reason to take bunny to the vet ALL rabbits need vaccines whether they live in the house with you or outside in a hutch/shed. Despite what many vets say about only needing to vaccinate against Myxi once a year (the ones that say this aren't good rabbit vets so find a new one if you hear it), they should actually be done religiously every 6 months to keep the immune system strong against it. VHD also needs to be kept up to date, now this one is actually once a year so don't be confused between the two. The vet should give you a vaccine card as you would get for a cat or dog as a record of when they have been vaccinated, keep it somewhere easy to find to remind yourself when they are due.

- So bunny vaccines are all up to date but suddenly bunny stops eating/poos don't look normal (either runny, very small strung together or no poos at all) then its time for a trip to the vets ASAP, when a rabbit stops eating or the poos change its an emergency. A rabbit cannot go 48 hours without eating or it is likely to die because of the way the guts work, a bit like a conveyer belt (best way I can think to put it) they need to have food going through them constantly. If for any reason the rabbit stops eating the conveyer belt stops and if food isn't eaten in time the guts will shut down and rabbit will go into GI Stasis and if this happens the guts may never start working again and rabbit will die.

- A tell-tale sign of bunny feeling poorly and needing to see a vet is when they sit huddled up with their bum in a corner or against a wall, usually grinding their teeth as well. This is one of the biggest signs of pain a rabbit shows and its important if you see this to make that vet appointment to see whats wrong with bunny. Remember rabbits are prey animals by nature so if you start seeing bunny behave unusually or look poorly/in pain it means bunny has already been suffering for a while and now the pain has become too much for buuny to ignore.

- Now the worst thing you will ever hear is a bunny scream, they will do this when in extreme pain or are terrified for their life. If you ever hear your bunny scream (it can't be mistaken for any other noise, you will know it if you hear it, which I hope no one here has to) take them to the vats asap, don't even bother making an appointment just get bunny in the carry box and go.

- So to recap: if bunny is acting strangely in anyway, whether not eating, pooing, generally not looking their normal selves you need to make that all important vet trip.

*Rabbit savvy vets:* 
- A good site to look at is Finding a UK rabbit vet

*Insurance, is it worth it?* 
- Although some people swear by insurance it may not always be the best way to go. There are only two insurance companies that cover rabbits (that I know of) and both don't cover for any teeth problems which is in my experience a main problem with rabbits. I know of some people including myself who put a bit of money aside each month in a separate account to save for any vet bills rather than putting it all to insurance when they may not cover for something you may need treatment for. 
- For those who would like to look into insurance for your bun these are the two companies that will cover them:
- Rabbit insurance from Petplan - Pet insurance specialists
- Rabbit Insurance | Lifetime Pet Insurance | Payment Protection

*Other good bits of info:* 
-http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/content/leaflet_pdfs/animal_welfare_bill_lft.pdf
-britishbunnies.co.uk - Nice little site I found advertised on facebook, has lots of info that would be good for any new owner. It even gives a list of prices of various things like food and hay.

This is still a work in progress and I will add more as people share more and more information and advice. Please PM me or post here anything you'd like to add. Please let me know about any broken links you find as well as some are external and may have been discontinued.

Many thanks to Kellyrich, Crofty, Hazyreality, Emzybabe, VampiricLust, Frags, Umber and Srhdufe for all their information given. Hoping I haven't missed any names but yell at me if I have and I'll add you to the list of fame.


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## Nonnie

Great stuff.

I think though this should be aimed at ALL rabbit owners, not just newbies.

Many people still keep their bunnies in an inappropriate manner.


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## kellyrich

Well done Kammie thats really good! You deserve a green blobby!! 

But i cant see the links for the health probs!


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## Kammie

Thanks for pointing that out Kelly, fixed now.


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## frags

well done kammie you have done an excellent job!!


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## umber

Good Stuff! How about mentioning that GP and Rabbits should not be housed together as that seems to be a common misconception or should that be somewhere else lol!


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## flufffluff39

umber said:


> Good Stuff! How about mentioning that GP and Rabbits should not be housed together as that seems to be a common misconception or should that be somewhere else lol!


Do'nt keep rabbits with guinea pigs. The rabbits will kill them!


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## hazyreality

Thanks for doing this Kammie (no R this time!) you have done a fine job!
Thanks for using my bit 

*Heidi*


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## crofty

umber said:


> Good Stuff! How about mentioning that GP and Rabbits should not be housed together as that seems to be a common misconception or should that be somewhere else lol!


Oh well thought of Umber!!

Brilliant stickie


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## frags

RABBITS LOVE TO PLAY

Bunnies are lively, active pets and enjoy having toys to play with. They like things they can pick up in their mouths and throw. You can buy special balls with treats hidden in for them to get out. An inexpensive toy for bunnies is cardboard. Mine love boxes. They can hide in them, climb on them and if all else fails, chew them. They are easily renewed when they get tatty.

Many rabbits also like to dig - fulfilling their natural instinct to burrow. Providing a sandpit filled with earth gives bunnies many happy hours digging - they often don't seem to realise they aren't getting anywhere!

also hard baby rattles can be bought at a charity shop or boot sale for approx 10p rabbits love these!


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## Kammie

Added your bit Frags. Also added a bit from a previous thread I made about guinea pigs and buns.


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## crofty

This leaflet is brilliant http://www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk/resources/content/leaflet_pdfs/animal_welfare_bill_lft.pdf


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## emzybabe

great work guys


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## Kammie

Updated to make it easier to read (hopefully) and added a few more links.


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## srhdufe

What about putting details on the best bedding for rabbits??


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## Kammie

Ooh never thought of that one will sort that out asap.

edit: Have added the bedding bit but have probably missed some so if you can think of more types of bedding good or bad then let me know.


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## emzybabe

I would maybe ad that straw bedding is the best insulator for the colder months


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## srhdufe

What about...
What to do with the hutch in winter...
I mean, move it to somewhere warmer if possible, buy a cover for it, extra bedding etc....? 
Not all people do this


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## Kammie

Updated with winter care and bit about straw in winter. Keep the info coming.


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## srhdufe

Kammie this link isnt working
http://www.lecoeurrabbitrescue.co.uk..._tail.htm#Poop

Is on the things to look out for bit


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## srhdufe

What about information on where to buy pet insurance?


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## Kammie

Updated with insurance info and removed broken link (thanks guys).


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## srhdufe

I came accross this today...
Would it be helpful??

http://www.beechwoodvets.com/html/pdf/Factsheets/Otherpets/24_265656.pdf


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## Kammie

Thats a nice little link there I'll add it in now!


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## srhdufe

Kammie said:


> Thats a nice little link there I'll add it in now!


Thank you 
Rep for you  

Do i go onto the hall of fame now??


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## srhdufe

I've found somewhere else that insures rabbits 

Rabbit Insurance Cover | Benefits of true lifetime pet insurance with helpucover


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## srhdufe

Great link for rabbit toys

Rabbit Rehome - Make Your Own Rabbit Toys


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## Kammie

Wow your busy today Srhdufe! Adding all those links and you go on the list of fame .


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## srhdufe

Kammie said:


> Wow your busy today Srhdufe! Adding all those links and you go on the list of fame .


hahaha well i'm looking for ideas to keep my new bun entertained too so just thought i'd let everyone else know what i'm finding too


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## emzybabe

* You can start insurance for your rabbit from 8 weeks up to their 5th birthday.
* Once insured, cover may be continued for the rest of your rabbit's life
You must take proper and reasonable care of your pet, including regular annual check-ups and vaccinations with licensed products as recommended by your vet and maintaining your pets body weight, within a normal range (as recognised by your vet).
* You can start your rabbit's cover immediately online or over the phone, but cover for illness does not commence until 28 days afterwards and cover for searching / finding your rabbit does not commence until 14 days afterwards.
* You pay an excess for each condition claimed per policy year.
* Our policy provides access to a 24/7 helpline called Petcall
* We cannot provide cover for preventative treatment such as routine vaccinations, for cosmetic or voluntary treatment such as neutering for non medical reasons, or for pregnancy, giving birth or breeding or uterine cancer.
* We cannot provide cover for treating any illness that is preventable by vaccination and you failed to vaccinate.
* Cover for some conditions may be restricted for rabbits with a history of illness or showing clinical signs before your policy start date.
* We cannot provide cover for treatment related to a second or subsequent instance of fly strike.
* We cannot provide cover for treating any illness that is preventable by vaccination and you failed to vaccinate
* All policies are subject to special conditions and exclusions of the Insurers.
* Dental treatment is normally excluded except where specifically to relieve suffering provided the rabbit has been insured under this policy for at least two years.
* Cover for some conditions may be restricted for rabbits with a history of illness or showing clinical signs before your policy start date.

ut:


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## srhdufe

This vet link isnt working anymore, Kammie

http://www.rcvs.org.uk/Templates/sys...p?NodeID=89660,


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## srhdufe

What about info on their teeth? I found this:

Dental Problems  rabbits teeth continue to grow throughout their life, at a rate of 2-3mm per week. Rabbits require a high fibre diet to ensure the teeth are evenly worn and to prevent overgrowth. If the teeth are not worn down, they grow incorrectly leading to discomfort, abscesses, anorexia, etc. Indication of dental problems may be saliva around the mouth, on the chest or front paws, an inability to eat or teeth grinding.

I found it on here.. Russel's Guide to Rabbits @ www.petcentreonline.co.uk

It's actually quite a good link


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## Kammie

Updated thanks Srhdufe


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## srhdufe

The russels guide to rabbits link isnt working properly. I think the first bit is missed off


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## Kammie

Fixed! Thanks Srhdufe.


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## davlin

Hi...

Great Job. Thanks for sharing this information.
I have got lot of information from this post. This is a highly informative posting which contains details that many of us would not be aware of. I would surely check out the link.


Thanks
Have a nice time a head.


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## Kammie

Updated - website added, worth a read.


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## Andyt4

the beechwood vet site says kale and spring greens shouldnt be fed daily due to high calcium. Other places reccomend those. It also says carrots are to be fed daily but i thought they were fattening?

conflicting info all the time 


what do you feed daily??


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## emzybabe

I normally give a few inches of celery, a broccoli florette, then something leafy - greens, spinach, rocket, basil, parsley.

(I once gave Miffy a small leaf of savoy cabbage for a few days in a row and she stopped eating and I had to rush her to the vets, I cant be certain it was the cabbage but I dont risk feeding it to her now) 

then as a treat thin slices of carrot adding up to about an inch, or a raisin, or half a grape or a tiny bit of apple or pear or pineapple. George also loves brown bread Miffy wont touch it tho.


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## Jay-Nitro

Andyt4 said:


> the beechwood vet site says kale and spring greens shouldnt be fed daily due to high calcium. Other places reccomend those. It also says carrots are to be fed daily but i thought they were fattening?
> 
> *conflicting info all the time*
> 
> what do you feed daily??


ill second that!!! everything i read is like this. one thing will tell you one and the next will tell you another its so annoying.

if they are meant to eat 80-90% hay does that mean that i should ignore him when he wants his greens and wait for him to eat his hay? we wouldnt want to starve the lil fella


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## Andyt4

he'll eat the hay if hes hungry and nothing else, mine seems to eat it in burts. Loads then hardly any


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## Kammie

Updated: section on hay.


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## Hellsbells

I've noticed a few threads this week where people dont appear to be taking medical action as quickly as they should - rabbit not eating or not moving about etc. Could anything be added re first aid for our precious buns like loosing claws and not eating and when and how to seek Vet attention. (hope no one is offended my by comment - the fact you ask the question shows you care!)


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## Kammie

Hellsbells said:


> I've noticed a few threads this week where people dont appear to be taking medical action as quickly as they should - rabbit not eating or not moving about etc. Could anything be added re first aid for our precious buns like loosing claws and not eating and when and how to seek Vet attention. (hope no one is offended my by comment - the fact you ask the question shows you care!)


Updated: when to take bunny to the vet (thanks Hellsbells) and added a little how much to feed guide as told to me by my vet.


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## K1nS

Kammie I have a question, the first post on here says

'If feeding twice a day on pellets the bunny should eat all pellets within 5 mins, any left after this time or if bunny walks away from it then you've fed too much,
* If feeding twice a day the pellets should be gone within 2 mins, again any left after this time or ignored by bunny means you've given too much,
* Veg should be given daily, enough should be given that its all eaten within 10 mins, any left after this time or bunny walks away from means too much was given'

This makes perfect sense but my bunny doesn't eat her food right away. What I normally do is give her a small amount of pellets in the morning and in the evening I give her some veg and on occasion fruit. Of course along with this she does get hay throughout the day. The 5 min rule can't really apply to her though so i'm wondering what I would be best to do?


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## Kammie

K1nS said:


> Kammie I have a question, the first post on here says
> 
> 'If feeding twice a day on pellets the bunny should eat all pellets within 5 mins, any left after this time or if bunny walks away from it then you've fed too much,
> * If feeding twice a day the pellets should be gone within 2 mins, again any left after this time or ignored by bunny means you've given too much,
> * Veg should be given daily, enough should be given that its all eaten within 10 mins, any left after this time or bunny walks away from means too much was given'
> 
> This makes perfect sense but my bunny doesn't eat her food right away. What I normally do is give her a small amount of pellets in the morning and in the evening I give her some veg and on occasion fruit. Of course along with this she does get hay throughout the day. The 5 min rule can't really apply to her though so i'm wondering what I would be best to do?


Time her from when she starts eating the food. The times are all based on that I should have mentioned sorry. If she doesn't eat it all in one go when she does start eating give her a bit less. Till my vet told me about this I was over feeding and they were eating all the food but not in one go, they were going back to again after a 5-10 min rest. Now I'm giving them less food and its being eaten straight away.


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## K1nS

Kammie said:


> Time her from when she starts eating the food. The times are all based on that I should have mentioned sorry. If she doesn't eat it all in one go when she does start eating give her a bit less. Till my vet told me about this I was over feeding and they were eating all the food but not in one go, they were going back to again after a 5-10 min rest. Now I'm giving them less food and its being eaten straight away.


Ok thankyou


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## lindseywatson

Rabbit Awareness Week may also be a great source of info. It starts on 26th April and has a website you can look at: | Rabbit Awareness Week

There are events running nationwide - I checked my local area and in Halifax certain vets are offering free rabbit health checks and reduced prices on vaccinations. There will be other events running too apparently so I am going to take my bunny mad 2 year old along. Not been to this event before. Anyone ever attended rabbit awareness week in the past?


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## britishbunnies

Hi there, Great post and thanks for mentioning my site britishbunnies.co.uk. If only everyone looked this type of information up before getting a rabbit.

As for the eating times, my two house rabbits gobble their food up immediately. However, I have looked after rabbits before that aren't in such a hurry to eat what's presented to them and will take their time. Usually I find it's because where there is only one rabbit there is no competition. What you need to watch for is a change in your rabbits regular eating habits - e.g. taking even longer to eat or not eating at all - as this is one of the first signs that your rabbit is unwell and needs to visit the vet.


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## sejver

I have found little English spot and I need help with his age ( have heard that if he is younger than 5-6 mounts I can't feed him with green-grass,vegetables and so on...He is aprocsimatly 25cm (9.84 inches) long and 400g (14.11 ounces) heavy....so how old is he?
Thanks


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## ndowell

Brilliant thread Kammie. Thanks! As a veteran rabbit owner still a very informative read. :thumbup: xx


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## Kammie

ndowell said:


> Brilliant thread Kammie. Thanks! As a veteran rabbit owner still a very informative read. :thumbup: xx


All the information has been put together by everyone on this section to make one big bank of knowledge for anyone to read. I learnt a lot myself whilst putting it all together.


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## srhdufe

I found these two leaflets which may be of some use 

Cost of rabbit ownership

Care of rabbits

Care of house rabbits


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## Barb

Hello there, i am a new rabbit owner, i have a mini lop named Mr Pete, thank u so very much for all the awesome tips on how to take care of him, i look forward to chatting and reading ur helpful posts. 
Cheers Barb:thumbup:


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## Chell

Some really useful information, I am a new owner well it's been a while since I had a bunny I was a child.... Thanx for the tip's on how to take care of my new family member Bailey...


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## Spaniel mad

I will be getting a rabbit or 2 in the near future and i found this thread very helpful

Thanx


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## duke1

Thanks for the advice and I too like to share an advice that is keep as much as clean where the rabbits are living because if not later it will stink.


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## lover of lops

my rabbit broke every bone in my guinea pigs body by kicking it repeatedly for taking a carrot top


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## hbg5ty

Thank you for sharing


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## mrsm

This was very useful. I have done a lot of research already online but it is excellent to see it all in one place. I do have a question though, it says about feeding bunnies fresh veg? My vet told me to stick with pellets, grass and hay and to only give fresh veg as a treat (especially carrots as full of sugar). Is this right? My bunnies are a healthy weight and next doors rabbit is obese (horrible, poor thing) and it lives off cabbage and carrots. Is veg a treat or can I give it every day?

Thank you!


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## alikate90

hi i have a new baby bunny shes about 8 weeks old and we just got her yesterday i have bought her some little friends meadowy hay for bedding and she just keeps eating it rather than lay on it she dosent seem to like it should i wait and see or just go and buy some of the saw clipping one instead??


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## davidpete

It is really a great advisable stuff. I really like this kind of stuff as it is advisable for whom, who want to buy new rabbit pets. All the information is great.


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## Lil Miss

alikate90 said:


> hi i have a new baby bunny shes about 8 weeks old and we just got her yesterday i have bought her some little friends meadowy hay for bedding and she just keeps eating it rather than lay on it she dosent seem to like it should i wait and see or just go and buy some of the saw clipping one instead??


hay should make 80% of a rabbits diet, please dont stop buying it she should have an unlimited supply of hay to eat through out the day


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## seanmac

what the feedback of washing rabbits


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## Guest

seanmac said:


> what the feedback of washing rabbits


Only if 100% needed for medical reasons (i.e a messy bottom), rabbits are very clean animals so there is no need to bath them normally


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## jeaniebeck

Thanks for great information i


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## Babbo

Great advice!!! I have seen many uninformed owners just buying a small hut and making do!!!Makes me soooo angry!!!


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## rabbitdude90

this is very good information


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## Funky

Babbo said:


> Great advice!!! I have seen many uninformed owners just buying a small hut and making do!!!Makes me soooo angry!!!


Makes me angry too!!!


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## rabbitdude90

useful information for the forum


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## Born2BWild

Vaccinations are now combined into 1 vaccine and yearly


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## Kammie

I'm going to be working on updating this over the next few days. Please post any new/changed info you think should be added. Let me know of any broken links or new links I can add. I know for a start the vaccine info is out of date and that will be first on my list to change.


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## Halfpenny

You probably know this but the latest recommendations for accommodation is a 6x2x2 hutch with a 6x10 run for a pair of rabbits.

There are also concerns about a new strain of VHD and vaccines do not fully cover it. There is a vaccine but at the moment it has to be specially ordered from abroad.


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## Finno

Hi. I'm not new to rabbits, but I am new in the country so I'm a little bit lost with the vaccinations. I'm from Finland originally and there the rabbits are actually not vaccinated at all. 

So there is two vaccines needed, and one, for the new strain of VHD, that needs to be ordered specially from abroad? But I suppose it's the vet who orders it? Why is it not available in the same way as the other vaccine? My principle usually is, whether it's for myself or for my pets, that I get all the vaccines that might be needed, and all vaccinations done at once if possible.

By the way I wonder how come in Finland nobody thinks that rabbits needs to be vaccinated. Perhaps the coldness keeps the diseases away, or are the Finns just completely behind the development here


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## Lopside

You will find that most vets offer a combined VHD and Myxi vaccination, Nobivac. Here is the info on the new vaccine/VHD variant;

New vaccine imported for deadly rabbit disease

Dr Richard Saunders BSc (Hons) BVSc MSB CBiol DZooMed (Mammalian) MRCVS Referral Vet, Zoo and Exotic Species, has responded to growing concerns about a new variant of the deadly disease rabbit VHD (RVHD2) and made it possible for UK vets to import a new vaccine to protect their pet rabbits. Richard, The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund's (RWAF) Specialist Veterinary Adviser warns that the current 'combi' vaccine available in the UK does not offer protection against the new RVHD strain, known as RVHD2, and that owners will need to add this second vaccine called 'Cunivak VHD' to their annual vaccination schedule to give their rabbits full protection against the 2 deadly diseases.

Over the past year there has been an increasing concern regarding RVHD2 becoming a cause of deaths in several outbreaks in the UK.

As a result, Richard, on behalf of the RWAF, with valuable assistance from the APLA, Ann Pocknell (Finn Pathologists), Mark Stidworthy and Daniela Denk (IZVG) and Tariq Abou-Zahr (Great Western Referrals) have been putting together a disease risk assessment.

The RWAF has now successfully established an SIC (Special Import Certificate) for a suitable EU member state vaccine, Cunivak RHD, and placed an order for a small number of vaccines to establish an ordering system into the UK.

If vets require any further information, they should contact the RWAF at [email protected] for our information sheet.

The RWAF urges all rabbit owners to discuss this new vaccine with their own vet. The RWAF holds a list of rabbit savvy vets, if you would like to know of rabbit savvy vets in your area please contact us on [email protected]. Any vet practices who would like to apply to be included can also contact us via the same e-mail address.


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## Finno

Thank you for the information. 
I also found some study in French: "
_no cross protection between RHDV1 (Classical strain) and RHDV2 (Variant strain). The experimentation is straightforward: vaccinated rabbits with the classical strain and challenged with the variant strain : 100% mortality; vaccinated rabbits with the variant strain and challenged with the classical strain: no protection either.

Warning : A vaccine against VHD classical strain don't protect against variant strain ! You should talk with your veterinarian ! _"

I'm sure new combination vaccines will be available before we know it


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## Lopside

Finno said:


> Thank you for the information.
> I also found some study in French: "
> _no cross protection between RHDV1 (Classical strain) and RHDV2 (Variant strain). The experimentation is straightforward: vaccinated rabbits with the classical strain and challenged with the variant strain : 100% mortality; vaccinated rabbits with the variant strain and challenged with the classical strain: no protection either.
> 
> Warning : A vaccine against VHD classical strain don't protect against variant strain ! You should talk with your veterinarian ! _"
> 
> I'm sure new combination vaccines will be available before we know it


I've read the rhd1 vaccine offers about 4 months protection against rhd2. They hope the new vaccine will be available in UK by end of this year. In the mean time take care with hygiene eg virkon foot baths. Theres a good webinar by Richard Saunders explaining all about it at online.


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## Emily-Ann Evans

Hi everyone! I'm Emily a 4th year Veterinary nursing student at the University of Bristol doing a dissertation on rabbits! I have two myself called Willow and Woody.

I'm looking for UK rabbit owners for my dissertation. For the study, we need the rabbit owners to film themselves doing 5 tasks with their rabbit, email the video to me and then complete a 5 minute questionnaire. Once this has been done they will be put into a draw to win the prize!

For more information, visit my website.


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## Michaela bowden

Sadly my beautiful Dobby passedt today ! The best advise I can give any rabbit owner is to please please keep a watchful eye on there teeth! He had no signs of chewing problems! Once I was at the vets this morning it turned in to something else! A tooth had overgrown and cut into his gum this caused sepsis and the poison had gone into his liver! Get pet insurance is a must! And please look further from outside the box. He was my first pet and boy did I love the little grumpy so! I have been told that rabbits suffer most illnesses to us so that’s something else to be very mindful about! For those that still have there fury little muddle treasure them! Because my heart is aching like I never thought i could ever know rite now.


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## Nye

Great read thanks


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## Michaela bowden

Nye said:


> Great read thanks


Rabbits are ground animals and they hide there illnesses very well so because they look alright to us in fact there not! Have been reading that they need vacinations every 6 months and a check up every 12 months! I was watching the TV the other night and there's this deadly disease going about and just alone in the wild it's killed off 60% of the wild rabbits, these wild rabbits come into contact with other animals that come into our gardens, they carry that disease not knowing and that's how it's spreading to our pets that live in the out door, just like my Dobby did, he never liked being indoors in the warmth only happy when he was in his hutch or having the run of the garden guarding it seeing the cats off . 
God I do miss him and I'm in two minds in getting another one but don't want to feel heart Brocken again. 
Love and adore your bundle fury friends guys as they are all truly special.


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## yasin ahmed

good information


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## Louis M. Jones

Hello, I need more update instruction.


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## bunnygeek

Louis M. Jones said:


> Hello, I need more update instruction.


Post a new thread in the forum and we can help


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## Louis M. Jones

bunnygeek said:


> Post a new thread in the forum and we can help


Yes, I will make a new thread. Please comment here.


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## Gertie&Flopsy'sMummy

Interesting that you say the rabbits should be vaccinated every six months. Two vets have told me that they only need vaccinated once a year. I'm taking my two bunnies to the vets again today for their post-spay assessments so I'll ask again!

Lots of good, helpful stuff!


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## bunnygeek

Gertie&Flopsy'sMummy said:


> Interesting that you say the rabbits should be vaccinated every six months. Two vets have told me that they only need vaccinated once a year. I'm taking my two bunnies to the vets again today for their post-spay assessments so I'll ask again!
> 
> Lots of good, helpful stuff!


At risk bunnies can have the VHD2 vaccine every 6 months (so outdoors buns or those near large wild colonies). The combi is annual now I think.


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## Gertie&Flopsy'sMummy

Ah, they must be referring to the combi then. They definitely said only annually. my rabbits live in an outdoors hutch but nowhere near wild rabbits. I'm sure they are fine to just be vaccinated annually.


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## Evie Forest

hi guys! we have recently got a new indoor bunny, and he's happy and healthy, however he got a habit with biting the carpet a lot... i dont know if any of you would know what to do about this as i obviously don't want him eating the carpet, of course for his health and also for the sake of my home if any of you have an advice on what to do for this it would be much appreciated 
thanks x


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## Tiggers

Carpet chewing is not conducive to your rabbit's health and needs to be stopped. You need to provide your rabbit with a totally safe area in which there is nothing that can be chewed which is unsafe. If you cannot provide this indoors, then you need to re evaluate where your rabbit is going to live long term. Letting a rabbit free range in any house is likely to incur issues like this.


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## Evie Forest

hi thanks for the advice, my rabbits vet has said its not going to harm him as its not like all he is doing is that. he will be living long term indoors, as we do have a safe environment for our rabbit.


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## Corneal

Evie Forest said:


> hi thanks for the advice, my rabbits vet has said its not going to harm him as its not like all he is doing is that. he will be living long term indoors, as we do have a safe environment for our rabbit.


theres no way to stop them from eating the carpet, they love carpets and get annoyed when they cant pick it up and throw it around, so will chew it even more to lossen bits so they can move it


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## JohnMcD

Brilliant information in the 1st post, I was really looking forward to get a guinea pig to go along my two rabbits...


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