# Dog becoming aggressive



## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

Hi, 
I have a 2 year old lurcher who recently become more aggressive towards myself. We've had her since she was 5 weeks old and she's always seemed to have a bit of an aggressive streak in her. As a tiny puppy she'd snarl and try and bite (not in a playful way) whenever she was made to do something she didn't want to do, i.e if she'd ran off with 1 of my daughters toys. 
A couple of weeks ago she was barking loudly so I'd told her to sit to try and stop her, she wouldn't listen to my command so all I'd did was to hold her collar and to try and make her sit. She then reared up snarling and biting like a wild animal and attacked my hand that was holding her collar causing several marks and drawing blood. As soon as I let go she ran off with her tail between her legs and into her cage (she's always had a cage to sleep in at night because she's a chewer and since I rent my home I've always thought this to be the best option). 
Today she was barking again so told her to sit, which she did but then as I told her to go in the kitchen she tried to nip me as she ran past. She ran straight into her cage and snarled at me again.
I really don't know what to do. I took her to puppy classes when she was younger but they were completely useless and a total waste of money. I have 2 young daughters and am now 7 months pregnant with my 3 child and am getting really concerned as what to do. I'd appreciate at advice anyone could give. Thanks.


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## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> Hi,
> I have a 2 year old lurcher who recently become more aggressive towards myself. We've had her since she was 5 weeks old and she's always seemed to have a bit of an aggressive streak in her. As a tiny puppy she'd snarl and try and bite (not in a playful way) whenever she was made to do something she didn't want to do, i.e if she'd ran off with 1 of my daughters toys.
> A couple of weeks ago she was barking loudly so I'd told her to sit to try and stop her, she wouldn't listen to my command so all I'd did was to hold her collar and to try and make her sit. She then reared up snarling and biting like a wild animal and attacked my hand that was holding her collar causing several marks and drawing blood. As soon as I let go she ran off with her tail between her legs and into her cage (she's always had a cage to sleep in at night because she's a chewer and since I rent my home I've always thought this to be the best option).
> Today she was barking again so told her to sit, which she did but then as I told her to go in the kitchen she tried to nip me as she ran past. She ran straight into her cage and snarled at me again.
> I really don't know what to do. I took her to puppy classes when she was younger but they were completely useless and a total waste of money. I have 2 young daughters and am now 7 months pregnant with my 3 child and am getting really concerned as what to do. I'd appreciate at advice anyone could give. Thanks.


How much exercise does she get? What does she have in the way of toys and self amusement things? Apart from the training class when very young has she had any regular ongoing training. Was she regularly handled and groomed as a pup and since and how did you deal with the early signs of biting and getting posessive when she run of with things she shouldnt have.

Lot of questions I know but can be relevant to why its got to the even worse stage it has now.


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## Jemimac (Jun 22, 2012)

check the amount of protein in her diet. When puppies are young you need to pile in all the protein and carbs etc as possible but as they get older you want a food with as low protein content as you can. Protein is what makes dogs aggressive which is why you arent advised to feed them straight meat. It's really weird but have a look for a food with a very low protein content as see how she goes. If you're not sure go to pets at home, they'll point out the best foods for your dog 

hope this helps


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

Hi, Thanks for replying. She pulls quite a lot on her lead (even with a halti) so since becoming pregnant I haven't walked her as much. She's fearful of other dogs since her puppy training classes when a fully grown german shepherd tried to attack her. There are quite a few dogs since that have also attacked her since that are local to me, so I tend to leave the dog walking to my other half now if I can. We do have a large garden though which she regularly goes bonkers in. She's had lot's of toys but destroys anything within minutes so when we buy her things it tends to be the harder rubber type one's as they last a bit longer. She's always been groomed and handled from the moment we first got her and never had a problem with that. 
As I said we took her to puppy training classes but they weren't of any use, some of the problems I asked the so called experts about and they didn't have a clue and 1 even shrugged his shoulders at me! We kind of just dealt with the problems as and when they happened. I never let her have a toy that wasn't her own and tried to just command her to sit and stay when bad. She's never been aggressive with any toy since or her food. She had gotten better lately but I'd put that down to her getting older and calming down.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

As a puppy she was fed James Wellbeloved and now is on Harringtons dried food with a small amount of chappie mixed in with it. I knew popular brands of dog food weren't that good, such as bakers but was told harringtons was a good choice.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

She also growls at my 5 year old and hardly ever greets either of us first thing in the morning, she'll just look at us and go back to sleep. She's not like this with my other half or my eldest daughter.


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

Jemimac said:


> check the amount of protein in her diet. When puppies are young you need to pile in all the protein and carbs etc as possible but as they get older you want a food with as low protein content as you can. *Protein is what makes dogs aggressive which is why you arent advised to feed them straight meat*. It's really weird but have a look for a food with a very low protein content as see how she goes. If you're not sure go to pets at home, they'll point out the best foods for your dog
> 
> hope this helps


I would love to see evidence to substantiate this statement.


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## Jemimac (Jun 22, 2012)

Dogless said:


> I would love to see evidence to substantiate this statement.


considering i was told this by two seperate professionals, one being a dog trainer and the other a vet then it clearly is a very high factor of aggression in dogs.


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

Jemimac said:


> considering i was told this by two seperate professionals, one being a dog trainer and the other a vet then it *clearly is a very high factor of aggression in dogs*.


Why? Did they explain? As far as I am aware it's a complete myth. It was my vet (canine nutrition being her interest - rare for a vet) who suggested I change to raw and several trainers including the current one I go to think it's a great diet.

Just because we are told something doesn't mean it's true - that goes for my vet / trainers too BTW but I can't find actual evidence that protein from raw food (straight meat as you say) causes aggression. Have you? What I am saying is that it is at best misleading and at worst dangerous to present hearsay as fact.


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## 912142 (Mar 28, 2011)

Jemimac said:


> check the amount of protein in her diet. When puppies are young you need to pile in all the protein and carbs etc as possible but as they get older you want a food with as low protein content as you can. *Protein is what makes dogs aggressive which is why you arent advised to feed them straight meat.* It's really weird but have a look for a food with a very low protein content as see how she goes. *If you're not sure go to pets at home, they'll point out the best foods for your dog *
> 
> hope this helps


Lowering protein is unlikely to remove aggression completely from an aggressive dog and in my opinion I have never come across anyone employed in Pets at Home to be experienced enough to advise on the food products they sell.

I suspect this dog is not being exercised or stimulated enough and has been allowed to rule the roost at a time when it should have been socialised and trained and it's now that the results of not doing this are becoming apparent.


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## Jemimac (Jun 22, 2012)

Perhaps you have not had experience of this yourself however, my boyfriend's dog started becoming quite aggresive at the age of 2, he is excercised 3 times a day and has the run of the garden at all times. They were advised to reduce the protein in his diet by their vet, after a month or so his behaviour calmed down. So I believe this to be true considering it worked for them.


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

Jemimac said:


> Perhaps you have not had experience of this yourself however, my boyfriend's dog started becoming quite aggresive at the age of 2, he is excercised 3 times a day and has the run of the garden at all times. They were advised to reduce the protein in his diet by their vet, after a month or so his behaviour calmed down. So I believe this to be true considering it worked for them.


If it worked for them, that's good - but based upon your experience with one dog I'm saying that even just recounting that experience is better than offering opinion as fact. I have found lots of 'studies' for and against, but all of them are very small, subjective and conducted over a very short timeframe.

OP; Apologies - I won't take your thread further O/T: I just feel like you have to be so careful on forums not to mislead people unknowingly.


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## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> Hi, Thanks for replying. She pulls quite a lot on her lead (even with a halti) so since becoming pregnant I haven't walked her as much. She's fearful of other dogs since her puppy training classes when a fully grown german shepherd tried to attack her. There are quite a few dogs since that have also attacked her since that are local to me, so I tend to leave the dog walking to my other half now if I can. We do have a large garden though which she regularly goes bonkers in. She's had lot's of toys but destroys anything within minutes so when we buy her things it tends to be the harder rubber type one's as they last a bit longer. She's always been groomed and handled from the moment we first got her and never had a problem with that.
> As I said we took her to puppy training classes but they weren't of any use, some of the problems I asked the so called experts about and they didn't have a clue and 1 even shrugged his shoulders at me! We kind of just dealt with the problems as and when they happened. I never let her have a toy that wasn't her own and tried to just command her to sit and stay when bad. She's never been aggressive with any toy since or her food. She had gotten better lately but I'd put that down to her getting older and calming down.


Trainers and classes unfortuanately can vary considerably in quality of trainer and the class itself. Would you be in a position to consider a behaviourist/trainer to come in and assess her and the situation, and give you a tailor made management programme to rectify the behaviour? With a baby on the way I would think that this would likely be the best option especially as her problems have gotten worse recently.

In the meantime things that you could do as a stop gap perhaps, is to firstly increase her exercise if you can, that should make her get rid of excess energy and give her more physical and mental stimulation, usually a tired dog
settles more and easier and less likely to show stressy snappy behaviour. Although you still have her confidence and behaviour problems when outside with pulling and other dogs, hence another reason that needs to be addressed and the suggestion of professional help.

One way to help the pulling and also to get her to focus and interact with you more instead of concentrating on dogs and other things, is more intera tion and treats. Pulling backwards when they pull just tends to give them something to pull against and pull even harder. Do you take treats out with you? Cheese, chicken, hotdogs, sausages anything liver based and even the chesse spread in tubes is usually good. When you see her going to pull, use the treat to lure her back beside you where you want her to be so the lead is loose, when she gets there reward and carry on. Use the treats and make sure she keeps focus on you and interact with her, calling her back and getting her back in postition and rewarding when she does. Changing speed and direction also makes sure she is paying attention too. When you change direction, use your voice to call her and lure her with the treat, if you are turning away, if you turn in a direction towards her walk around her, starting off on the leg nearest to her, dont drag her round but use treats and reward her for following and keeping a loose lead and staying where you want her to be.
Another good training exercise is to lure and have her following you by your side round the house and garden off lead, it can really help you practise maintaining and keeping her attention and keeping her in place next to you so can help when she is on lead.

I would also work on basic training on a daily basis it should improve her relationship with you and also instill commands and better behaviour. Even 2 or 3 10/15 minute sessions can help a day. Its mentally stimulating too. Just practise the basics of sit wait stay down come etc. You can also work on recall in the garden, praising and treating when she comes it should if she gets into the habit of coming to you for a treat, also help when you need or want her to move about the house and to other rooms. Also start making her work for things she wants or you give her. Sitting for food treats, toys, her lead on etc. If she does things you ask her to do then she gets praise and treats.

Invaluable things to self amuse and wind down a stressed dog are Kongs and other treat toys and chews. Chewing is a de-stresser for dogs, things that they have to work at also provides mental stimulation. Here is some suggestions.
Recipes - Kong The black Kongs the Extreme is for even heavy chewers
Busy Buddy Twist-n-Treat - YouTube
Keep a good selection of hews, these are good and really last most dogs like them Our products | Pure Dog | Stagbar antler dog chews | natural dog treats | organic dog snacks | hypoallergenic dog chews | long-lasting dog chews | teeth cleaning dog chews | low fat dog treats
Even feeding her meals in these and putting treats in them provides mental stimulation and self amusement
Buster DogMaze - YouTube

With more exercise, training, and more things to self amuse her, she should or it at least should start to make a difference.
I would seriously though, consider getting professional help, these suggestions are really only that to make a start in the meantime.


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## smokeybear (Oct 19, 2011)

Hi there, as for pulling on the lead look here for some information from reputable, qualified trainers and behaviourists

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/loose_leash_diagramed.doc
http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/letsgoforawalktogether.pdf
http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/strolling_on_lead.doc
http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/walkingyourdogwithheadhalter.pdf
http://www.apdt.co.uk/documents/Looselead_000.pdf
http://www.cleverdogcompany.com/tl_files/factsheets/Pulling on the lead.pdf
How to Teach Loose-Leash Walking | Karen Pryor Clickertraining
Leash Walking « Ahimsa Dog Blog

Look under loose leash walking here:

ClickerSolutions Training Articles Contents

Books:

My dog pulls what do I do? By Turid Rugaas
Help, my dog pulls on the lead by Erica Peachey
Can't Pull, Won't Pull Alison Rowbotham

Here for some head halter options:

Black Dog Head Halter

Agility Warehouse | Dog Agility Equipment and Supplies | Black Dog Head Halter

The Canny Collar

The Canny Collar - The Best Collar to Stop Dogs Pulling on the Lead - Home

The Dogalter

http://www.kumfi.com/index.php?page...n=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&vmcchk=1&Itemid=26

The DogMatic

Dogmatic Headcollar

Gentle Controller

GenCon All-in-1

The Gentle Leader

The Gentle Leader at Canine Concepts

The Halti

http://www.companyofanimals.co.uk/halti.php

The K9 Bridle

K9Bridle - The Worlds First Dog Bridle, Head Harness, Head Collar

The Newtrix Easy Way

Angela Stockdale, Dog Aggression Specialist - About Angela: an aggressive dog is an unhappy dog

The SWAG headcollar

The SWAG Head Collar

Rope Lead Head Halter

Rope Slip Lead Head Collar Combination

Martingale head halter

Phoenix Martingale Headcollars

http://www.apbc.org.uk/system/files...aring_your_dog_for_a_muzzle_or_headcollar.pdf

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/walkingyourdogwithheadhalter.pdf

There are many dog trainers/training clubs in the UK. Some are independent, some are aligned to a particular body or bodies and some are franchises. Some are KC registered, some are not. There are good, bad and indifferent in all spheres. Whichever trainer/club attracts you, the best course of action is to go and observe a few classes to determine whether or not you agree with their philosophies.

Academy of Dog Training and Behaviour
Welcome to APDT - Association of Pet Dog Trainers UK
The Institute represents trainers and dog handlers in the private sector
Puppy and Dog Training - Clever Dog Company
The Guild of Dog Trainers - Dog Training, Dog Training and Behaviour, Dog Training Courses, Dog Behaviour Courses
Home
List of Accredited Instructors - The Kennel Club
The Kennel Club
Puppy training classes, Puppy School is a network of UK schools for training young puppies.
http://positively.com/dog-training/trainersearch/

NB some of the best trainers in the UK do not appear in any of the above!


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

912142 said:


> Lowering protein is unlikely to remove aggression completely from an aggressive dog and in my opinion I have never come across anyone employed in Pets at Home to be experienced enough to advise on the food products they sell.
> 
> I suspect this dog is not being exercised or stimulated enough and has been allowed to rule the roost at a time when it should have been socialised and trained and it's now that the results of not doing this are becoming apparent.


You're very quick to judge but fail to give any advice, so I'm struggling to understand why you actually bothered replying!. She has been socialised and attended training classes. I've already stated my dog isn't walked as much as she used to be but she has never "ruled the roost" no matter what you may think!


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> You're very quick to judge but fail to give any advice, so I'm struggling to understand why you actually bothered replying!. She has been socialised and attended training classes. I've already stated my dog isn't walked as much as she used to be but she has never "ruled the roost" no matter what you may think!


I know you say that she went to puppy classes that were useless, but have you tried any classes since? I'm just thinking that attending a class together may strengthen the bond and trust between you and cement the commands that she knows as well as providing additional socialisation? Perhaps your dog is a little confused as to what you are after if you are needing to take her collar to 'make' her? At the very least a trainer will be able to give you advice face to face rather than on the internet and a fresh, unbiased perspective may be just what you need to spot problems and get back on track.

Do you play a lot of games and do plenty of training on walks? Just thinking from the bonding perspective again.

ETA: The book at this link http://www.dogwise.com/ItemDetails.cfm?ID=dtb1126 is fantastic. I bought it to help me with my dog's prey drive, but there are loads of fun exercises / games and ideas in it that increase the communication between the dog and owner.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

Sled dog hotel said:


> Trainers and classes unfortuanately can vary considerably in quality of trainer and the class itself. Would you be in a position to consider a behaviourist/trainer to come in and assess her and the situation, and give you a tailor made management programme to rectify the behaviour? With a baby on the way I would think that this would likely be the best option especially as her problems have gotten worse recently.
> 
> In the meantime things that you could do as a stop gap perhaps, is to firstly increase her exercise if you can, that should make her get rid of excess energy and give her more physical and mental stimulation, usually a tired dog
> settles more and easier and less likely to show stressy snappy behaviour. Although you still have her confidence and behaviour problems when outside with pulling and other dogs, hence another reason that needs to be addressed and the suggestion of professional help.
> ...


Thanks again for replying. We always take a bag of cheese with us whenever we take her for walks. It's not that she concentrates on other dogs, these dogs are usually always off leads and make a bee line for my dog, wherever we are. Two have ran out of houses and attacked her, on separate occasions! If a dog leaves her alone then she has no interest in them, it's only when they get too close that she then has a problem with them.

I'm going to try the things you've recommended and buy her some more toys and see if that helps. I'm also going to look into trying another dog trainer, though I trainer I used before was supposedly the best in the area!...well they were her words!. Thanks again for your help x


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## 912142 (Mar 28, 2011)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> *You're very quick to judge but fail to give any advice, so I'm struggling to understand why you actually bothered replying!.* She has been socialised and attended training classes. I've already stated my dog isn't walked as much as she used to be but she has never "ruled the roost" no matter what you may think!


On the contrary I am not judging you - I don't do 'judging' - if I were my response would have been much harsher! I was merely giving my opinion based on what you yourself said in your posts.

You may have lulled yourself into thinking you have done the right thing but as you said in your previous posts this dog has shown signs of aggression since you got her yet you failed to seek professional advice, you took her to classes that you were not comfortable with again you failed to to seek advice.

I have given my opinion, if you don't like it that's fine - my advice would be to seek professional help, someone that is able to observe you as a family and how the dog behaves within that unit. Only then will you have a chance of possibly rectifying a problem that has been ongoing for nearly 2 years.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

smokeybear said:


> Hi there, as for pulling on the lead look here for some information from reputable, qualified trainers and behaviourists
> 
> http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/loose_leash_diagramed.doc
> http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/letsgoforawalktogether.pdf
> ...


Thanks for the advice, I think I'm going to look into 1 on 1 training with my dog and see if that helps.


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## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> Thanks again for replying. We always take a bag of cheese with us whenever we take her for walks. It's not that she concentrates on other dogs, these dogs are usually always off leads and make a bee line for my dog, wherever we are. Two have ran out of houses and attacked her, on separate occasions! If a dog leaves her alone then she has no interest in them, it's only when they get too close that she then has a problem with them.
> 
> I'm going to try the things you've recommended and buy her some more toys and see if that helps. I'm also going to look into trying another dog trainer, though I trainer I used before was supposedly the best in the area!...well they were her words!. Thanks again for your help x


With a baby on the way, a good trainer would probably be your best and hopefully quickest route to getting it sorted asap. Hopefully in the meantime the suggestions might help calm things down and start to get things a bit more under control. Thats the problem with the internet its limited as to what you can actually do to help.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

Dogless said:


> I know you say that she went to puppy classes that were useless, but have you tried any classes since? I'm just thinking that attending a class together may strengthen the bond and trust between you and cement the commands that she knows as well as providing additional socialisation? Perhaps your dog is a little confused as to what you are after if you are needing to take her collar to 'make' her? At the very least a trainer will be able to give you advice face to face rather than on the internet and a fresh, unbiased perspective may be just what you need to spot problems and get back on track.
> 
> Do you play a lot of games and do plenty of training on walks? Just thinking from the bonding perspective again.
> 
> ETA: The book at this link Welcome to Dogwise.com is fantastic. I bought it to help me with my dog's prey drive, but there are loads of fun exercises / games and ideas in it that increase the communication between the dog and owner.


Thanks for the advice. I haven't tried any dog classes since, to be honest there isn't that many near where I live. And since having a bad experience with her when she was a puppy I'm a bit dubious about attending any more. I spent a lot of money on the training and got a lot of empty promises and a dog who then started being fearful of other dogs.
I try and play with her as much as I can, my other half works a lot so my kids and the dog are pretty much left to me most of the time so I can't always give my dog as much attention as she probably needs.
She might have been confused by my holding her collar as that isn't something I usually do, most of the time when I say sit, she sit's. But I don't think it warranted her reaction to me. 
I think I'm going to try contacting another trainer who does house visits. They aren't that local but might be willing to travel.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

912142 said:


> On the contrary I am not judging you - I don't do 'judging' - if I were my response would have been much harsher! I was merely giving my opinion based on what you yourself said in your posts.
> 
> You may have lulled yourself into thinking you have done the right thing but as you said in your previous posts this dog has shown signs of aggression since you got her yet you failed to seek professional advice, you took her to classes that you were not comfortable with again you failed to to seek advice.
> 
> I have given my opinion, if you don't like it that's fine - my advice would be to seek professional help, someone that is able to observe you as a family and how the dog behaves within that unit. Only then will you have a chance of possibly rectifying a problem that has been ongoing for nearly 2 years.


I had problems with my dog when she was a puppy and sort help and still I apparently failed my dog? I attended the training classes but this person also did home visits and did observe me as a family! You don't call that seeking professional help? To be honest I think whatever I said or tried wouldn't be good enough!


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> Thanks for the advice. I haven't tried any dog classes since, to be honest there isn't that many near where I live. And since having a bad experience with her when she was a puppy I'm a bit dubious about attending any more. I spent a lot of money on the training and got a lot of empty promises and a dog who then started being fearful of other dogs.
> I try and play with her as much as I can, my other half works a lot so my kids and the dog are pretty much left to me most of the time so I can't always give my dog as much attention as she probably needs.
> She might have been confused by my holding her collar as that isn't something I usually do, most of the time when I say sit, she sit's. But I don't think it warranted her reaction to me.
> I think I'm going to try contacting another trainer who does house visits. They aren't that local but might be willing to travel.


I know how you feel about classes; I also had a bad experience with classes that I hated and was nervous about ever going again. I was so bad that when I suggested finding others hubby said it wasn't a good idea . However, I recently joined a dog training club that suits us and actually look forward to going.

I'm not saying that you 'deserved' a bite at all - hard to express tone when typing! I was just thinking that if she was a bit confused and frightened that perhaps that is why she snapped. At least if you understand why then it can be worked on is what I was getting at.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

Dogless said:


> I know how you feel about classes; I also had a bad experience with classes that I hated and was nervous about ever going again. I was so bad that when I suggested finding others hubby said it wasn't a good idea . However, I recently joined a dog training club that suits us and actually look forward to going.
> 
> I'm not saying that you 'deserved' a bite at all - hard to express tone when typing! I was just thinking that if she was a bit confused and frightened that perhaps that is why she snapped. At least if you understand why then it can be worked on is what I was getting at.


I didn't think you thought I deserved to be bitten, sorry if it came across that way . If I did sign up with another class I'd be limited to how long I could attend with baby being due in a couple of months.


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## 912142 (Mar 28, 2011)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> I had problems with my dog when she was a puppy *and sort help *and still I apparently failed my dog? *I attended the training classes but this person also did home visits and did observe me as a family!* You don't call that seeking professional help? To be honest I think whatever I said or tried wouldn't be good enough!


Here is your original post:

Hi, 
I have a 2 year old lurcher who recently become more aggressive towards myself. We've had her since she was 5 weeks old and she's always seemed to have a bit of an aggressive streak in her. As a tiny puppy she'd snarl and try and bite (not in a playful way) whenever she was made to do something she didn't want to do, i.e if she'd ran off with 1 of my daughters toys. 
A couple of weeks ago she was barking loudly so I'd told her to sit to try and stop her, she wouldn't listen to my command so all I'd did was to hold her collar and to try and make her sit. She then reared up snarling and biting like a wild animal and attacked my hand that was holding her collar causing several marks and drawing blood. As soon as I let go she ran off with her tail between her legs and into her cage (she's always had a cage to sleep in at night because she's a chewer and since I rent my home I've always thought this to be the best option). 
Today she was barking again so told her to sit, which she did but then as I told her to go in the kitchen she tried to nip me as she ran past. She ran straight into her cage and snarled at me again.
I really don't know what to do. *I took her to puppy classes when she was younger but they were completely useless and a total waste of money.* I have 2 young daughters and am now 7 months pregnant with my 3 child and am getting really concerned as what to do. I'd appreciate at advice anyone could give. Thanks.

Nowhere in your post do you mention seeking professional help at an early stage nor did you mention any home visits. Which is it? You contradict yourself in more ways than one.

The point I am making is *you really do need professional help because there are children involved* and no-one over the internet can provide that help for you. It has to be someone that can visit the family and observe both you and your dog.

It is totally irresponsible to have left this situation develop for this long given you have children and another on the way.

Seek professional help.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

912142 said:


> Here is your original post:
> 
> Hi,
> I have a 2 year old lurcher who recently become more aggressive towards myself. We've had her since she was 5 weeks old and she's always seemed to have a bit of an aggressive streak in her. As a tiny puppy she'd snarl and try and bite (not in a playful way) whenever she was made to do something she didn't want to do, i.e if she'd ran off with 1 of my daughters toys.
> ...


I think you need to have a look at your own life. I know what problems I have in mine and WILL resolve them, if I didn't want help with my situation then I could have quite easily have given up on my dog, but I haven't and don't intend to. You on the other hand are clearly looking for an arguement and I've had my fill!. I think you yourself need to seek professional help because you clearly have issues!.


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## 912142 (Mar 28, 2011)

fuzzyflapjack said:


> I think you need to have a look at your own life. I know what problems I have in mine and WILL resolve them, if I didn't want help with my situation then I could have quite easily have given up on my dog, but I haven't and don't intend to. You on the other hand are clearly looking for an arguement and I've had my fill!. I think you yourself need to seek professional help because you clearly have issues!.


Thank you for your advice. :thumbup:


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## scarter (Apr 26, 2009)

For what it's worth, we had resource guarding from our Beagle boy from the age of 7.5 weeks old. We first experienced the problem on the pup's first day with us and phoned the trainer the very same day. Did training classes, various one-to-ones with trainers - worked very hard to do all the things we were told to do. By the time he was two years old he was a HOOLIGAN!!! A sweetheart much of the time, but whenever you asked him to do something he didn't want to do he'd snarl, snap and even bite. 

Eventually we got in a behaviourist that taught us how to fix it overnight - we'd been given bad advice by umpteen trainers (who all spouted the 'popular' advice) and that compounded the problem. The ironic thing is, if we'd just used our common sense and gut instinct we'd have done the right thing from the outset! 2 years further down the line and we haven't had a single problem with him. He's a sweetheart ALL of the time now! With ours we'd been too permissive - trying to persuade him to do what we wanted instead of just taking charge.

One thing that I would have thought unlikely to do any harm and perhaps lots of good is to put him on a Nothing In Life is Free program? Do a Google search if it's not something you've heard of - see what you think. Very simple to do (just requires a touch of self-discipline on your part) and it really can work wonders for all sorts of problems.


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## Old Shep (Oct 17, 2010)

Because there are children involved and you have, at best, 2 months to sort this problem before you have another child and no time whatsoever to spend with the dog, _in my opinion_, you should turn the dog over to the Dogs' Trust and have him rehomed.

I'm not being harsh and I am most definatly not getting at you, but I think it's unrealistic to think this issue, with the best will in the world, will be put to bed in 2 months. I'm a mum and a gran, and that's what I'd do if I were in that situation. It's not a failure on your part, it's the positive, realistic, responsible thing to do. I really do wish you well.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

scarter said:


> For what it's worth, we had resource guarding from our Beagle boy from the age of 7.5 weeks old. We first experienced the problem on the pup's first day with us and phoned the trainer the very same day. Did training classes, various one-to-ones with trainers - worked very hard to do all the things we were told to do. By the time he was two years old he was a HOOLIGAN!!! A sweetheart much of the time, but whenever you asked him to do something he didn't want to do he'd snarl, snap and even bite.
> 
> Eventually we got in a behaviourist that taught us how to fix it overnight - we'd been given bad advice by umpteen trainers (who all spouted the 'popular' advice) and that compounded the problem. The ironic thing is, if we'd just used our common sense and gut instinct we'd have done the right thing from the outset! 2 years further down the line and we haven't had a single problem with him. He's a sweetheart ALL of the time now! With ours we'd been too permissive - trying to persuade him to do what we wanted instead of just taking charge.
> 
> One thing that I would have thought unlikely to do any harm and perhaps lots of good is to put him on a Nothing In Life is Free program? Do a Google search if it's not something you've heard of - see what you think. Very simple to do (just requires a touch of self-discipline on your part) and it really can work wonders for all sorts of problems.


Thanks very much for the info. I've had a look and it does seem to be an easy program to follow. It's definitely something I'll look into and talk with my other half about.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

Old Shep said:


> Because there are children involved and you have, at best, 2 months to sort this problem before you have another child and no time whatsoever to spend with the dog, _in my opinion_, you should turn the dog over to the Dogs' Trust and have him rehomed.
> 
> I'm not being harsh and I am most definatly not getting at you, but I think it's unrealistic to think this issue, with the best will in the world, will be put to bed in 2 months. I'm a mum and a gran, and that's what I'd do if I were in that situation. It's not a failure on your part, it's the positive, realistic, responsible thing to do. I really do wish you well.


Thanks for your reply. I understand what you're saying but giving her up is the very last resort and something I don't want to think about yet. I'm not burying my head in the sand but I don't want to give up on her. We've decided to try other techniques and look for some local trainers and see if there's any improvement.


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## fuzzyflapjack (Jul 16, 2012)

peter06 said:


> how cute she is but my Joe is not bad. lol..


? you've lost me lol


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