# Calming Your Cerrrrrraaaaaazzzzzzzy Canine - new blog series



## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

I will be blogging a new series of articles on 'crazy' dog behaviour over the coming days/weeks 

Lots of stuff relevant to lots of topics brought up here on a daily basis  so hope to help lots and lots of pets & people.

The intro is up as well as Under Pressure which is an introduction to some of the issues behind crazy behaviour (anxiety, stress, impulse control).

Lots more on implementing calming protocols and exercises coming!

Love to hear your comments and suggestions


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## Guest (Apr 4, 2010)

Looks like it will be very useful, pity you can't put it directly on here, I find that a lot of people never look at links


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

I can do that if its allowed (?) - its all my material so no copyright issues - whaddya think?


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## Guest (Apr 4, 2010)

Depends how much there is going to be  
You could always copy and paste sections that are relevant to a question raised


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## k8t (Oct 13, 2009)

I think it sounds like a great idea, but I suppose you could do it with links if you are not allowed to post it directly.

Having been on these boards for a few months now, it is really the same issues that arise again and again and to be honest, I keep thinking 'that has all been explained before'.....

Something a bit more permanent is brilliant.

I love the info on your site Tripod, so realistic and easy to understand.

Kate


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

k8t said:


> I love the info on your site Tripod, so realistic and easy to understand.
> 
> Kate


Thanks Kate  will post an abrideged version of blogposts in this series and those who want more can check out the full thing. Thanks for the support


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

This is the first in this series, check it out, maybe even subscribe and let me know what you think!



> Over the next few weeks we are going to post some training plans for camling crazy canines.
> 
> This series of blog posts is for those with dogs who are always on the go, even after strenuous exercise; who constantly seem to be on the alert; who are reactive to noises, activity, other dogs, meeting people; who demand attention or who have difficulty settling
> 
> ...


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

This is the first informational blog post in the Calming you Crazy Canine series with background on what is often going on behing the crazy behaviour:



> Lets start with a bit of an intro to the issues behind the crazy dog. This is by no means exhaustive but will hopefully help you to understand whats going on so that we can implement strategies to improve calmness.
> 
> *Stress*
> Stress is an over used term, certainly in relation to people, but this is a well studied physiological issue that has all sorts of effects on the individual ranging from physiological illness, poor condition, behavioural and emotional effects.
> ...


Check out the blog for lots of resources on reading dog and lots of pictures showing canine signalling.



> *Get Outta Dodge*
> When a situation is becoming too much for your dog its time to get outta Dodge! This is particularly important for dogs who are fearful, uncomfortable and/or reactive in particular situations.
> 
> It is exceptionally important that dogs learn to trust and look to their owners for guidance in all manner of situations. If the dog is not helped to get out of a situation or their owner frustrates their escape they may feel that the only way to keep scary things away is by acting aggressively (this is often an escalation of stress signalling).
> ...


Again lots more explanation and links to resources on the blog itself so check it out!

Let me know if you have any comments or suggestions - there's more to come too


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## Inkdog (Dec 5, 2009)

Absolutely outstanding! :thumbup: Jam packed with useful information and excellent advice. Thanks for taking the time to do this, Anne!

I'm looking forward to the next instalment!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks Inkdog  Today's entry is on things _we_ can do to help calm our dog:



> There are lots of ways to help reduce stress in the life of your dog pretty simply, before we even have to tackle any behaviour modification.
> 
> *The 2-leggers*
> 
> ...


Stres busting tips for humans linked to from the blog



> *Calmatives and Medical Treatment*
> If your dog has trouble calming down or seems to be on the go constantly there may well be a physiological disorder at the root; but this sort of stress particularly over extended periods of time can have all sorts of detrimental effects on your pets health. Therefore a vet check is essential as medical and behavioural therapy may be required.
> 
> Certain anxiety disorders commonly seen in dogs may warrant medication to help the dog focus enough for behaviour modification to begin to help. There are obviously all sorts of considerations but dogs on medication need thorough veterinary care and supervision over the course of treatment.
> ...


Links to detailed resources on each of the above described remedies here.



> *The Dogs Dinner*
> 
> Just as food affects our moods it has a massive effect on our dogs too. There are often common factors in cases where the owner reports out of control behaviour, hyper behaviour or indeed aggressive behaviour and poor diet is certainly a contributing factor very often.
> 
> ...


More links and resources available - check it out!


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## kaz_f (Mar 8, 2009)

This is really interesting, thank you for sharing. I'll be following this!


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## katiefranke (Oct 6, 2008)

Great thread! will be watching with interest for further update (am sending my sister the link to your site too!!!)


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks so much kaz_f and katie, glad you are enjoying it 

Here's todays entry: *Keeping the Peace*



> Management is the first step in dealing with any and all behaviour issues and means to prevent the dog practicing the behaviour that we dont like.
> 
> Its also important to prevent the crazy response as we know that our dog is likely to become addicted to this rush of chemicals elicited during exposure to stressors.
> 
> ...





> *How stimulating and exciting is your dogs environment?*
> 
> In our last post in this series, Stress Busting, we mentioned that human behaviour, particularly in stressful situations has great impact; your dogs home is also a major factor in his stress and therefore crazy level.
> 
> ...


Great links to more resources on shock, invisible fencing and more ways to reduce stress for your dog on the blog itself.



> *Control the dog, control the crazy*
> 
> Using equipment to keep the dog safe and under control in situations that can make him a little crazy is important so as to ensure safety for all and to prevent him from practicing out-of-control behaviour. Using the right equipment will also help to reduce the handlers frustration and embarrassment.
> 
> ...


Check out the original post for lots and lots and lots of links on safe control equipment and its use.



> *Enrichment  body & mind*
> Dogs are expected to entertain themselves for much of the day but when dealing with crazy dog behaviour and stress enrichment is even more important.
> 
> We have so far learnt that excess physical stimulation can cause a rise in stress and therefore an increase in crazy dog stuff; we need to counter the dogs need for entertainment with plenty of mental exercise.
> ...


Lots of info on enrichment ideas in the original post.



> *Creatures of habit*
> 
> Dogs thrive on a predictable life with a steady routine. Having a good idea of the outcome of certain situations helps to reduce anxiety and thereby promotes calm responses to different scenarios.
> 
> ...





> So far we have looked at calmatives and our behaviour; today we added managment, looking at the dogs environment & lifestyle, safe control and enrichment to consider when dealing with crazy canines. Next we will look at behaviour modification and ways to teach calm behaviour and fix the crazy  stay tuned!


More on the way....


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Todays entry: *The Makings of a Calm Canine*



> For the most part the issues behind the crazy dog are based in the dog's emotional systems. In comparison with behaviour, emotions can be difficult to change but the result of these emotional changes manifest themselves in behaviours that we can see. Therefore we have to work on the underlying emotional basis and the resulting behaviours.
> 
> Because we are talking about an emotional basis you cannot force your dog to change his attitude to a particular trigger.
> 
> ...





> *Catch your dog doing the right (relaxed) thing!*
> 
> Your dog is not crazy all the time - when he is chilled out and just relaxing approach slowly without direct eye contact, pet him gently and give him a treat (one that is not too exciting).
> 
> ...





> *Calm Canine Resources:*
> The best books paws down on this issue are Click to Calm by Emma Parsons and Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt. I would highly recommend either or indeed both of these books for any and all owners, but especially for those of us with crazy canines.
> 
> The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson and On Talking Terms with Dogs by Turid Rugaas are also good additions to your doggie library to help you to develop a thorough understanding of dog behaviour and signalling.
> ...


Links to resources on the original blog



> *Still to come…*
> 
> With calming measures in place we can begin to introduce exercises that are directly helpful when dealing with crazy dogs in arousing situations. We will look at crate training, settle training, using games & play, doggie zen and lots more.


...Crate to Calm coming next...


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## MerlinsMum (Aug 2, 2009)

Absolutely stunning, thank you so much Tripod!

very very useful to me as I am about to embark on tackling some of Merlin's reactive issues with a behaviourist... She has asked that he has a 2-week 'safe history' meaning no reactions to triggers for a minimum of 2 weeks before she starts work with us. I wasn't sure why but your blog has explained it perfectly, thank you!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Thats great Merlin'sMum - best of luck as you work through the reactivity issue, hopefully this series will help you and Merlin too


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## Chocmonster (Feb 23, 2010)

Tripod, thanks for posting this here as it certainly makes interesting reading and will be very helpful to me!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Your welcome Chocmonster, thanks for tuning in


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Todays entry: *Crate for Calm*



> In dog training speak, a crate should be a conditioned relaxation cue - this means that being in his crate should be something that tells your dog 'everything is ok, calm down and relax'.
> 
> If you have already been using a crate but your dog is not crazy about it then this is for you and your dog! If you have never used a crate with your dog then this is also for you and your dog!
> 
> ...


Links to resources on blog.



> *Crate Training 101: back to the beginning*
> 
> Let's start crate training at the very start with first bringing your new crate home.
> 
> ...





> *Shaping & Crate Training*
> Shaping is a way of teaching a complex behaviour and it involves breaking a big behaviour into small steps and then rewarding the dog for achieving each incremental step until he can do the full behaviour.
> (here and here are a couple of nice introductory pieces on shaping from fun4fido)
> 
> ...


Clips, clicker and shaping resources linked to from here.



> *Adding a crate-time cue *
> Once your dog has got really good at getting into his crate and lying down with the door closed for a short period of time you can start to add a couple of cues.
> 
> When in a training situation just before your dog gets in his crate use a cue word such as 'crate time' in an upbeat voice.
> ...





> *Living with a crate*
> Your dog's crate should become part of your dog's daily life and he should adopt it as his new doggie den.
> 
> Bring it around the house with you so that your dog can lie in there close to household activities.
> ...





> *Still to come…*
> In our next post in the series we are going to start mat work and settle training - if you would like to wait for that before starting crate training you can. These two exercises work closely together.
> 
> Start the Crate Training 101 work and then begin some mat work. Come back to shaping crate work a little later on.


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

*Today's entry: Settle & Matwork*



> Just like your dogs crate tells him to settle down quickly we are going to teach him that a mat means the same thing.
> 
> A mat is easier to bring with you when you leave the house. It may also be easier to move from one area of the house to another.
> 
> ...





> Settle
> Although you cant force a dog (or person) to calm down there are things that can be done to help the feelings of calm wash over.
> 
> When you are feeling down, standing up straight and smiling does help just as your dog assuming a settled position will help him to feel a little calmer.
> ...





> Shpaing & Mat Work
> Just like we used a shaping plan to teach your dog to go into his crate and spend time in there we will shape him to lie calmly on his mat.
> 
> Each time your dog achieves one of the steps in your shaping plan click (or YES!) and toss a treat onto the mat. This is to encourage him to pay attention to his mat.
> ...





> *Jazz up & Settle Down*
> This is probably one of my most favourite impulse control, calming and fun exercises.
> 
> This exercise involves getting your dog all worked up and then quickly calming him down again.
> ...





> *Mat Work & Crate Training*
> These two exercises go together so you can work them during the same sessions.
> 
> For the first few stages of your shaping plans work them separately but as your dog progresses you can combine them and then separate them alternatively. Your dog will therefore learn to carry out these exercises all as one and as two separate exercises, depending on your needs.





> *A very important training lesson:*
> When working on exercises that require teaching dogs to hold a position the placement of your rewards is very important.
> 
> When working on mat work we want to keep the dog on the mat so we have to reward the dog on the mat and continue to reward him on the mat while he lies there.
> ...


Resources and clips linked to from the original blog


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## kaz_f (Mar 8, 2009)

Still loving this thread. 
Got crates sorted from day one but am definitely re-looking at my dogs environment from the point of view of minimising crazy behaviour and have picked up some very good tips. 
I'm gonna rep you!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

thanks kaz_f  - well done for making efforts to reduce the crazy!!!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Today's entry: *Premack-ing for Calm*



> Mothers the world over have been using Premacks Principle since the dawn of time and you are likely to have been exposed to it, although you might not have known it at the time! The best example of this is when your mother told you to eat your vegetables if you want ice-cream.
> 
> Premacks Principle: access to preferred activities function as reinforcement for the performance of less preferred behaviours.
> Eating vegetables is a less preferred behaviour, but by doing so you are given the opportunity to eat ice-cream, which is a more preferred behaviour. Eating vegetables is the key to getting ice-cream! Its for this reason that Premacks Principle is also known as Grandmas Law!
> ...





> *Functional Rewards*
> A functional reward is the reason for carrying out a particular behaviour - by this I mean if the dog wants to move toward a distracter they are rewarded with increasing proximity if they carry out a particular behaviour; if the dog wants to move away from a distracter they are rewarded with increased distance if they carry out a particular behaviour.
> 
> In the case of crazy dog we generally want to reward calm and attentive behaviour with things that they want access to.
> ...





> *The Look-at-That Game*
> LAT is a game described in Leslie McDevitts Control Unleashed and is one of the most useful training exercises.
> 
> When you first start with this one, you might think it a little counterintuitive but I assure you this exercise will make a massive difference to training with distractions.
> ...





> *Premack-ing in everyday life*
> We have talked a lot about recognising the crazy, excitable, aroused dog as well as recognising the opposite of that  the calm, relaxed, chilled out dog.
> 
> Any time your dog wants access to anything such as getting attention, his ball, up on the sofa, a bell rub, a treat, his dinner, to sniff a tree, to greet a person or dog, to get off leash, to get his leash on, to go through a door, to get out of his crateanything, have a look at how calm (or not) he is.
> ...


All videos and resources linked to on the original blog


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## katiefranke (Oct 6, 2008)

Thanks Anne, another great post! I have "Control Unleashed" and regularly play the "look at that" game with maggie (she gets VERY excited when she see other dogs going nuts around an agility circuit)...I find the game excellent and its helping a lot already. We can def see an improvement in her...

I also like the "Go Wild & Freeze" game from the book which I think is pretty much the same as the 'Jazz Up & Settle' game you mentioned in an earlier post :thumbup:


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks Katie - yup, jazz up & settle down is the same as go wild & freeze! Think Leslie stole that from Dr D but could be the other way round


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## katiefranke (Oct 6, 2008)

tripod said:


> Thanks Katie - yup, jazz up & settle down is the same as go wild & freeze! Think Leslie stole that from Dr D but could be the other way round


he he, either way a great game :thumbup:

This series was a great idea by the way...I've gotta tell you I eagerly await each installment


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

katiefranke said:


> This series was a great idea by the way...I've gotta tell you I eagerly await each installment


:thumbup: thanks hun! I'm a little behind but will be onto teaching check ins and some other important stuff tomorrow


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Have to get this one in first - sorry I'm late with it 



> One of the problem areas for the owners of cerrrrraaaazzzy dogs is walkies. Its one thing your dog being out of control in your house but it becomes much more serious if that same level of cerrrrraaaazzzy is seen when out and about.
> 
> These dogs often become easily frustrated on a leash wanting to greet people, play with other dogs, chase bicycles and sniff trees. This may even develop into leash reactivity; where the cerrrrraaaazzzy-dog turns into the barking-snarling-lunging-growling-dog.
> 
> ...





> *Collar Grabs & Leash Pressure*
> 
> *Collar Grabs*
> 
> ...





> *Get Outta Dodge!*
> Sometimes its necessary to just get out of a situation that is likely to get out of control or perhaps already has.
> 
> You can even incorporate this exercise into LAT work or other work with triggers - remember only to work at your dog's safe distance.
> ...





> *Premack-ing it!*
> Remember that when there are distractions your dog may want to move away or move closer. We can use 'this way' and use a functional reward to reinforce your dog.
> 
> If your dog is faced with a trigger that he want to move away from, become a dog-detective by carefully learning his most subtle discomfort, distance increasing signals.
> ...


Check out the original on the blog for links to resources  thanks to all those tuning in - let me know how you're getting on


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Today's entry: *Check-ins, Targeting & 'LOOK'*



> Things that get our cerrraaaazzzzy dogs crazy are often so highly stressing that our dogs give them their full attention.
> 
> Along with an emergency escape cue and lots of other things we have been doing to help our crazy dogs it's also good to work on ways to improve his focus on you - even in situations that may bring out the crazy. If he's paying attention to you he can't pay attention to scary or exciting things.





> *"LOOK!"*
> While practicing LAT games and other below threshold work around triggers we begin to teach our dog that the sight of a trigger means to look to his owner. We can also put that behaviour on cue so that we have it available to use at any time.
> 
> LOOK! is also important as dogs who 'eye' one another are more likely to lunge, snarl and generally cause trouble. By teaching your dog to avert his gaze (by instead making eye contact with you) we are also having him use doggie calming signalling.
> ...





> *Hand Targeting*
> This is one fo the most useful and simple exercises to teach your dog. It involves teaching your dog to touch his nose to your palm.
> 
> Your palm becomes a target and can be used to lead your dog into all sorts of positions, walk in a close position or distract him by having him turn his back on a trigger.
> ...





> *Check-ins*
> Check-ins are automatic, uncued returns to you - they may involve your dog just turing his head to you or may indeed involve him running back to you.
> 
> Any and every time your dog offers either of these reward him with something really great and the opportunity (once safe) to continue with whatever he had been doing. We don't want to teach him that anytime he voluntarily returns to you that the fun ends.
> ...





> *Still to come…*
> Although all training exercises can be considered impulse control exercises, we are going to talk about a few that are specifically teach that good things come to calm dogs. Impulse control is soming soon…


Resources linked to on original blog


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## kaz_f (Mar 8, 2009)

Thank you! Learned so much from these posts. I've always used a flexi lead with mine but am going to look at using a halti type harness instead for a while whilst I hone the training a bit better.

Plus I reckon I'm gonna invest in a clicker too.

I like the way you've split then training down into bite-sized instalments.


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Probably a good idea kaz - flexis can be a little unpredicatable and are prob safer to use on dogs that are totally reliable in specific situations.

I lvoe the Halti harness though (not the head collar) and you could still use that with the flexi attached to the ring on the whithers should you start using your flexi again.

Glad you are enjoying the series, please let me know how you and your dog get on and if you have any queries or suggestions. Would love to hear tips from you about things we could try to calm the crazy


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Today's entry is on exercises used to teach impulse control: Good Things Come to Calm Dogs



> Strictly speaking, all training exercises when taught properly act as impulse control exercises but today we will talk about some that are directly related to teaching your dog that good things come to calm dogs.
> 
> We have already introduced some great impulse control exercises that really help such as Jazz up & Settle down and Premack-ing for calm.
> 
> ...





> *Impulse Control 101: leave it*
> Leave it is the foundation impulse control exercise and can then be made more and more challenging to reflect real life situations in which we might need our dogs to leave it.
> 
> *One hand or two?*
> ...





> *Leave it & The Art of Doggie Zen*
> Now that your dog is able to leave a treat right in front of him in your hand for several seconds to cue (wohoo!) we can take the next step.
> 
> This exercise is also great for proofing stays in sit or down positions too so is win-win.
> ...





> *Leaving a tempting dropped treat*
> This next exercise reflects a real life situation in which leave it will come in handy.
> 
> Prepare some teeny yummy treats and keep all but one of them in your pocket.
> ...





> *Challenging Times: leave it & LLW*
> No training exercise should be trained in isolation because it is very rare that you ever need one training exercise on its own.
> 
> So as soon as your dog has got the jist of an exercise begin to apply it to all sorts of real life situations combined with other useful exercises.
> ...





> *Still to come*
> We are coming closer to the end of this series so I hope you and your dog are calming a little! In the next entry we will be talking about exercises that we can use to calm our dogs down quickly, especially useful if in a new situation  we will encourage you to work reguarly in areas (below threshold) that cause the crazy in your dog to come to the surface.


Go to the original blog for links to resources


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Today's entry is introduces a protocol for teaching calm and attentive behaviour in new and/or exciting situations: *Crazy to Calm Quickly*



> Weve been doing lots and lots of work on calming and introducing measures for general calming. Now lets look at some ways to deal with situations we know that bring out the crazy.
> 
> When a situation is too much you may see a rise in the crazy stuff  implement some first-aid and use some of the cues that we have already worked on such as Get outta Dodge, Jazz up & Settle down or targeting exercises.





> *Daytripping*
> Introducing your dog to lots of new places is a great way of providing mental stimulation and physical exercise without going too overboard.
> 
> Remember, you are responsible for keeping your dog safe and below threshold  if you know that your dog is not ready for particular scenarios leave him at home or have him cared for elsewhere. It is a good to bring your dog to as many places as possible but start out with calmer, quieter scenarios first until you have achieved a higher level of calm.
> ...





> *Calm & Attentive in New Places*
> This really useful protocol is based on one described by Seri Gintner MS, CDBC for use with shelter dogs.
> 
> Have your dog on leash, bring at least three high value treats (your dogs top 3 treats) and any other calmatives on your list.
> ...





> *Dont forget about the 2-leggers:*
> Dont forget that your behaviour is also important here in determining how calm (or not) your dog will be.
> 
> If you expect calm attentiveness from your dog your own behaviour must reflect this. Move slowly and speak low and slow to calm your dog.
> ...


Resources linked on the blog



> *Still to come*
> We are nearly done but there are a couple of beauties still to come! We have yet to talk about doggie games as stress busters and relationship boosters; we will look at eliminating aversives to reduce anxiety and stress and talk about calming for specific situations such as separation, greeetings, leash reactivity and car manners.


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Using games to calm the cerrrrraaaazzzzzy can be really effective...



> Fun and games are so important for all dogs but are especially useful for crazy dogs.
> 
> Games set up positive associations between pet and person encouraging each to enjoy the others company.
> 
> ...





> *But*
> Because they are fun, games are highly arousing and exciting for dogs so great care must be taken when playing.
> 
> Games have rules:
> ...


Resources linked from blog post - Games: Stress Busters and Relationship Boosters 



> *Using games to combat the cerrraaaazzzzzy:*
> 
> - after each round of a game (one round = one throw of the ball etc.) have an obedience break that is at least twice the length of the game round  game is 30 seconds, obedience break is 1 minute etc.
> - strictly abide by the rules at ALL times
> ...


More to come on using aversives and calming for specific situations such as separation, car manners and leash reactivity


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

The last in the main series looks at the problem with using aversives (things that your dog doesn't like) when dealing with crazy behaviour - a big NO NO 

Aversives and Calmness do not mix:



> When we talk about dogs with poor impulse control and anxious dogs we may be talking about two different temperament types (in some cases we may see anxiety and poor impulse control in the same dog too) but when it comes to modifying crazy behaviour there are common themes.
> 
> Besides many of the behaviour modification protocols and exercises to put in place, there is also one very important consideration: using aversives is likely to be less successful than reward based techniques.
> 
> ...


The next couple of posts will be on dealing with crazy behaviour in specific situations so if there are any suggestions let me know


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Lots of queries about this around here lately so hopefully this helps 

Home Alone - calming for separation



> Dogs are social animals and bond strongly with their people so its no surprise that most dogs will experience some level of distress when separated from their nearest and dearest.
> 
> Some dogs however become more upset during separation and separation anxiety has become one of the most commonly complained about behaviour issues.
> 
> ...





> The main signs of separation issues include:
> 
> -destruction while alone (often of exit routes e.g. doors)
> -escape attempts while alone
> ...





> *Getting started:*
> 
> Record your dog during a routine absence (about one hour) so that this can be reviewed  sometimes other happenings can be at the root of the problem. I have had several cases which were initially presumed to be separation distress but through filming we discovered other causes including reactivity to outside noises and one dog who loved to chase birds from inside the house while his mum was out!
> 
> ...





> *Preparing to Leave:*
> 
> While working on teaching calm for separation try not to have your dog distressed while alone. This means that you might need to work on this during holidays or have someone care for your dog while you are out.
> 
> ...





> *Returning:*
> 
> Keep your greetings low key  talk softly, step away if your dog is jumping or being too enthusiastic.
> 
> ...





> *Alone-training Tips:*
> 
> -alone training should be part of puppy socialisation so start early by gradually building the amount of time your puppy spends without attention or alone
> -if you have an adult dog or a new dog start alone training today
> ...





> *Great Separation Resources:*
> 
> Have a read of Karen Overalls Protocol for Uncoupling Departures and Departure Cues.
> 
> ...


Resources linked on blog


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## kaz_f (Mar 8, 2009)

Just to say that although I have other difficulties to overcome with my little tyke, from early on I have never had problems with separation anxiety and I am convinced that it is because I have a routine before I go out and it actually serves to calm my dog. I do the same routine at bedtime and he knows that if I adopt a certain tone and say certain key words it means he and I are going to be apart for a while. It's almost as if when I do and say these key things he resigns himself to the fact that protests are futile and therefore - knowing that he has no options available but to accept it he relaxes and gets straight into his bed. This may sound daft and apologies if it does as I may have put it in a very clumsy way (I am certainly no training guru) but in my experience cues certainly do work. I know this to be true because unless the routine has been gone through at night he won't settle easily. Sometimes my mum stays and dogsits and I say to her you need to tell him very calmly and direclty 'Alfie, it's your bedtime. Quick toilet and then bedtime' and he knows exactly what's expected of him then - no grumbles and no moans.

Recall's another matter!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Absolutley kaz  cues and routine are a winner. The routine and regularity breeds security and confidence and the cue tells the dog to expect that feeling of calmness.

The most effective way to teach recalls is through Premack-ing i.e. return to me and then get to go investigate/run around/greet that dog etc.etc.
You can practice that in set-up situations too with distraction recalls: more here and here (scroll down)

Lots of impulse control exercises will always help too!


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Today's specific cerrrraaaazzzzy situation is car travel: Vrrrrooom! - Calm in the Car



> Cerrraaazzzy car behaviour manifests in several different ways. Your dog may be afraid of the car, he may jump around in the car, he might bark continuously or at triggers from the car or indeed he may be regularly car sick.
> 
> Many of the calming strategies that we have already talked about throughout this series are helpful for these different car issues.
> 
> ...





> *Calm to the Car*
> The cerrraaazzzy starts before the engine does so calm behaviour must be insisted upon on the way to the car.
> 
> Exercise your dog before car travel and bring him home for some settle work about 20 minutes before the car journey begins.
> ...





> *Calm in the Car*
> Lots and lots of the calmers that we have already discussed are sooo useful to calming in the car.
> 
> Use your dogs crate (make sure it is safe to use and is secured in the car) with his mat in the car. If you have been working through our crate shaping plan your dog should see his crate as a conditioned relaxer  practice lots of cratework and matwork in the car.
> ...





> *Calm out of the Car*
> Just like we have a release cue for getting out of the crate it is important to have one for getting out of the car too.
> 
> When you arrive at a new place, practice lots of calm and attentive exercises so as to get your dog calmed after an exciting journey and so he focuses on you.
> ...


All resources (and more!) linked to from the original blog


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

The Dog Trainer : Indoor Games for People and Dogs :: Quick and Dirty Tips 

games can teach focus + self-control - _Go Wild! and Freeze!... _ is especially good.


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Today's entry is on calm leash/walkies behaviour: New leash on life



> Many people have lovely calm dogs indoors who turn into whirling dervishes when anything walk related is mentioned or even hinted at.
> 
> It is no wonder that these excited and wound up cerrraazzzy canines pull on leash, chase anything that moves, ignore their owner and bark at other dogs. With this level of excitment their inhibitions are lowered and control is not high on the agenda.
> 
> ...





> *Calm Preparation for Walkies*
> 
> A new rule must be implemented from today: doggie must be calm for progress on walkies. This applies from the first step in preparing for walkies and must be consistently adhered to.
> 
> ...





> *Calm on Walkies*
> Walkies are very exciting for dogs and being out and about means that his attention may not be on you but rather on all the goings on out and about  even if you are offering the yummiest of all yummies!
> 
> You cant expect your dog to behave the same out on walkies as he does indoors unless you have done lots and lots of work with him. Dogs dont generalise well so need to learn the same exercise in lots of different situations and add that to all the distractions and excitment we can see how difficult it is for them.
> ...





> *New loose leash on life*
> Keeping a loose leash for walkies is important for many reasons. First off it makes walkies far more enjoyable for pet and person and walking on a loose leash takes the pressure off the dogs neck and your shoulders so is much healthier.
> 
> A tight, tense leash will cause an increase in tension and reactivity in your dog so it is more difficult for him to stay calm.
> ...


All resource linked to from the original blog



> *Calm after Walkies*
> Any time (and I mean any and all times) that your dog has been wound up it is essential that he has a period of calm straight afterwards to help to bring him down.
> 
> When you get in from walkies dont just expect your dog to entertain himself; actively work on helping him calm.
> ...


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## madferrit* (Sep 17, 2009)

Great tips to follow thanks tripod!:thumbup:

Terry-love the muffin game too what a great idea and you can buy the trays a pretty cheap prices, off to try it!:thumbup:


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## tripod (Feb 14, 2010)

Last one in this blog series 



> We have come to the end of our calming blog series so hopefully there was lots in there to help you and your pet.
> 
> Remember that excitment, reactivity, hyper behaviour, aggression, stress and anxiety have the same roots in the chemical systems in the body.
> 
> ...


For more see the blog - lots more posts up there on all sorts of doggie topics


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## Mad4Collies (Jun 19, 2013)

Big thanks to LeashedForLife for dredging this brilliant thread up. :thumbsup:

Not sure how stickies work, but could this be made into one? 

Really great info in here


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## smudgebiscuit (Jan 25, 2011)

I know this is quite an old thread but just tried the link to the full blog and it's broken....is this available anywhere?


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## Mad4Collies (Jun 19, 2013)

Pawsitive Dawgs Blog! | Pawsitive Training for Pawsitive Dawgs

try this ^^^


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## smudgebiscuit (Jan 25, 2011)

thanks mad4collies


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## Tails and Trails (Jan 9, 2014)

k8t said:


> I think it sounds like a great idea, but I suppose you could do it with links if you are not allowed to post it directly.
> 
> *Having been on these boards for a few months now, it is really the same issues that arise again and again and to be honest, I keep thinking 'that has all been explained before'.....*
> 
> ...


I never think that. I think problems fall into set generalised 'categories.
Yet are different as each set of criteria differ.
And each dog has its own personality
And each owner has his/her personality


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