# Anti-Pulling solutions..tried nearly everything!



## Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming (Jul 13, 2015)

Hello,

I am in need of a good anti pulling solution for my 15month old Dobermann. I have tried the following:

*Front Clip Harness:* Was still managing to pull? Was dragging himself sideways.

*Canny Collar/Halti/Dogomatic:* Was riding above his eyes, he really did not like them and also people were mistaking the headcollars for a muzzle.

*Choke Chain/Half Check:* Still pulling, however chocking himself , hence the name.

*Heel work: *Absolutley Fantastic (when no people or dogs are present) otherwise he wants to say hello to them.

****Haven't tried***: Prong Collar: *A lady whom lives around the corner from me has one on her male and he walks at her side, however having researched them, I am a little skeptical.

Hopefully I will find a solution and anybody could advise me on a good piece of equipment

Sarah x


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## BlueJay (Sep 20, 2013)

The tool - no matter what it is - is not going to work alone. They are there to make things a little easier/safer for you and the dog _*alongside*_ LLW training


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## Linda2147 (Sep 26, 2013)

in teaching to walk nicely on leash when he starts to pull just stop and turn around, when he comes to the end of the lead it will jerk him back and it will make him stop pulling to stop being jerked by the lead. May take a few times but he'll soon learn.


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## BlueJay (Sep 20, 2013)

Linda2147 said:


> in teaching to walk nicely on leash when he starts to pull just stop and turn around, when he comes to the end of the lead it will jerk him back and it will make him stop pulling to stop being jerked by the lead. May take a few times but he'll soon learn.


The idea of this method is the dog isn't getting where he wants to go, rather than jerking on the lead doing anything - one could just jerk on the lead whilst still walking... but obviously that isn't in the dogs best interest


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## Shikoku (Dec 16, 2013)




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## lemmsy (May 12, 2008)

Please don't use a prong collar.

They work by applying pressure, via the spikes, to a sensitive area on the dog's neck when the dog pulls. The dog learns to not pull to avoid the discomfort. Not a nice way to learn.

I would stick with a well fitting harness, with both front and back attachment and a double ended lead, as shown below:









Remember that all training tools and just that, tools and will help the training process but they won't do the training for you.

You may find the following training tutorials helpful:


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## tantrumbean (Aug 23, 2011)

I use a SWAG headcollar - it's the only one my boy will tolerate (tried Halti, Gentle Leader and another one I can't remember) and for us, it's worked much better than a front clip harness. He just pulled sideways in the harness and I was actually getting worried that the weird sideways pull wasn't going to do his joints/spine much good either. I have the same problem as you, he can do LLW perfectly well, but if I'm out with my friend and her pack, he turns into the puller from hell till he's had a proper off lead run. Yes, if he really wants to, he can still pull with a headcollar, but it's much more controlled and manageable and at least he's moving normally rather than some weird twisted dragging motion.

And no, don't use a prong collar!!!


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## Jamesgoeswalkies (May 8, 2014)

Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming said:


> *Heel work: *Absolutley Fantastic (*when no people or dogs are present*) otherwise he wants to say hello to them.


Then work on this area ...that would be my suggestion.

I like the Mekuti harness. I would suggest this, too. I would then work on his loose lead walking by rewarding him for walking past people/dogs and not saying hello....starting on the opposite side of the road if necessary. And for a while don't walk with people or in heavy traffic environments where he can practice pulling. It becomes a habit.

Equipment such as Prong Collars are designed to punish a dog .... usually for something that we haven't trained. Not needed ...enjoy working and training him instead.

J


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2016)

Well done for not trying a prong collar you do the right thing and the lady who uses one is cruel to her dog. With Buddy when he started pulling even towards humsns or dogs I turned round and said let's go walked about 5 steps then turned round again. Worked well.


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## Burrowzig (Feb 18, 2009)

Swag head collars are good, that's one to try. I use a similar design (which I made) when walking Fly with the other dogs - she always wants to be out in front! It really helps. By herself, she walks really well, and amazed me in her recent gold good citizen when she did normal, slow and fast pace outside and never once had a tight lead.


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2016)

Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am in need of a good anti pulling solution for my 15month old Dobermann. I have tried the following:
> 
> ...


If I'm reading your posts correctly, you just got him in September right? So you've had him for less than two months - you can't have tried everything 
Also I'm a little confused, if he was 12 months old in September, how is he now 15 months old? Math is not my forte but even I can't figure that one out!

Anyway, as to the pulling. @Shikoku posted the exact video I would have. 
Equipment doesn't stop pulling - training does. 
Basically, if the dog is determined enough, they will pull through any equipment, yup, even a prong collar. I see plenty of dogs pulling for all they're worth with a prong collar on. They develop what's called a punishment callous, and the equipment just doesn't work.

What does work is teaching leash manners. There are all sorts of ways of teaching a dog not to pull, but they all depend on the dog having a clear picture of what to do when he/she hits the end of the leash, which is where that video comes in. If you teach the dog what to do when he feels pressure on the leash - no matter what equipment he's wearing, the pulling will greatly diminish.

I do walk my great dane and very large muttdog on harnesses, not to prevent pulling, but because I think harnesses are more comfortable for the dog.


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## Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming (Jul 13, 2015)

Thank you everybody for your replies I will Definitely take on board what everybody has said 



ouesi said:


> If I'm reading your posts correctly, you just got him in September right? So you've had him for less than two months - you can't have tried everything
> Also I'm a little confused, if he was 12 months old in September, how is he now 15 months old? Math is not my forte but even I can't figure that one out!
> 
> Anyway, as to the pulling. @Shikoku posted the exact video I would have.
> ...


Hi Ouesi, I have tried everything hence why I have asked for help on the forum

Dantè was born on July 2015 so he was 12 months July 2016 of this year and I got him 11 September, it Is now 28th October making him 15months old


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2016)

Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming said:


> Thank you everybody for your replies I will Definitely take on board what everybody has said
> 
> Hi Ouesi, I have tried everything hence why I have asked for help on the forum
> 
> Dantè was born on July 2015 so he was 12 months July 2016 of this year and I got him 11 September, it Is now 28th October making him 15months old


Sorry, I just got confused when you said on the 10th of September that he was 12 months old. 


Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am collecting my Dobermann Import tomorrow, he is 12 months old and Is currently on Purina Pro Plan food however having researching the ingredients, It doesn't appear to be of good quality.


And then on October 5th you said he was 13 months old:


Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming said:


> Hi, thank you! He is 13months old still needing to fill out bless him, I adore him! Your Rottweiler in your profile image looks adorable! X


So yeah, I was surprised to see you say he was 15 months old now.

Anyway, back to the pulling. If you have tried everything, then you have tried the technique in the video @Shikoku posted. 
How did that work out?


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## Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming (Jul 13, 2015)

ouesi said:


> Sorry, I just got confused when you said on the 10th of September that he was 12 months old.
> 
> And then on October 5th you said he was 13 months old:
> 
> ...


Well as Shikoku only posted that yesterday for me to try, it has only been a day I think I would need a bit more time to try it out before I know it is working


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## Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming (Jul 13, 2015)

I have tried the technique in the video yes, he is fantastic when no other dogs and people are around and responds well.


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## Shikoku (Dec 16, 2013)

Then you need to work on proofing the behaviour, more about proofing here - http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2077

You've probably heard about the 3 D's, distance, distraction and duration. You work on one at a time, there is also other criteria such as speed and precision which can be worked on


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## Lurcherlad (Jan 5, 2013)

Shikoku said:


> Then you need to work on proofing the behaviour, more about proofing here - http://www.clickertraining.com/node/2077
> 
> You've probably heard about the 3 D's, distance, distraction and duration. You work on one at a time, there is also other criteria such as speed and precision which can be worked on


This.

And OP, you will need to persevere with this single technique for some weeks for it to work 

Chopping and changing too often/too quickly will simply confuse the dog.

We need to make it perfectly clear to the dog what we want them to do. I think we sometimes *think* they know, when we haven't actually made it crystal clear.

Good luck


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## Pg03 (Nov 1, 2016)

Sarah Cain9 Dog Grooming said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am in need of a good anti pulling solution for my 15month old Dobermann. I have tried the following:
> 
> ...


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## Pg03 (Nov 1, 2016)

I put a couple of small bells on his lead so if he pulls I jiggle the lead hence he is distracted from pulling and has started to walk even though it's only for seconds (early days) it's a start.


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

.
QUOTE, Pg03:

I put a couple of *small bells on his lead * so if he pulls, *I jiggle the lead* [& the bells jingle], *thus he is distracted from pulling* and he's started to walk --even though it's only for seconds (early days,) it's a start.

/QUOTE
.
.
hello, newbie -
U wouldn't by any chance be thinking of this product, would U?--- "the Jingler", sold in the UK & created / 'invented' by one Stan Rawlinson, who is - despite the NAME on his website, below -- absolutely *not* a graduate or affiliate of the UK 'Dog Listener' program, itself created & promoted by Jan Fennel.
.
http://www.doglistener.co.uk/behavioural/walking_to_heel.shtml
.
the "jingler" was previously touted on PF-uk by a banned former member. It's not a product i'd recommend to anyone, as dogs have sensitive ears & the irritating jingle so close to their ears is - IMO - both silly & unkind. If U want to teach a dog to LLW, then do so - without resorting to noise pollution or aversive tools, coercive handling, or sheer brute-force.
Personally, i wrap my dogs' tags in heavy-duty rubber bands to silence the incessant jingle, as that sound also alerts Other Dogs to my dogs' approach, & often sets reactive dogs up to fail - they are alerted long before we arrive, & are already agitated B4 we're visible, so they're prepped to go off like bombs when the fuse ignites them, as we finally hove into view -- much-anticipated.  Why agitate distant dogs, or alert them needlessly?
.
to the OP, proofing a dog who walks well to Heel only when 'other dogs' or 'other humans' aren't present to tempt him is not complex, just work him at a distance where he doesn't react, reward the desired behavior, & as he improves, *gradually *reduce the distance between the Dobe & the distractions... being sure to limit those distractions to ONE At A Time, & in places where other dogs will be on-leash only.
U can't train him to walk politely with loose dogs roaming, as the off-lead dogs will inevitably come within his distraction radius & he'll want to say hi.
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Avoiding off-lead dogs may mean walking him only on sidewalks & avoiding any parks, beaches, etc, where dogs are likely to be running free.
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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

.
BTW, i'm going to add immediately that i am not promoting Jan Fennel / the 'Dog Listener's methods, philosophy, hypotheses about dogs, or suggesting her as a resource - most of what she suggests is ridiculous, & dogs don't roam the globe in female-led bands with a single stud to warn off other studs - amazingly, dogs aren't equines.
.
.
.


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## Pup2Dog (Nov 4, 2016)

I had a similar issue with my german shepard X rotweiller so many techniques and tools collars etc out there it can become so confusing to you and your pooch. I found that encouraging more controlled socialising has really helped her get over her excitement of seeing another dog making it less of a novelty. Also using a technique similar to a 'lure' where they know you have a treat and will continue to look up and you and walk as closely as possible to you until they get the treat. This works well if you see a dog in the distance, let them see the dog and then carry out that technique when approaching them, if you make the the thought of getting a treat more exciting than seeing another dog it can make passing them a lot easier. Most dogs will do anything for a scooby snack! I have written a post about lead training puppies that some may find interesting and helpful. pup2dog.co.uk/how-to-train-your-puppy-on-a-lead/


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## Guest (Nov 4, 2016)

Pup2Dog said:


> I had a similar issue with my german shepard X rotweiller so many techniques and tools collars etc out there it can become so confusing to you and your pooch. I found that encouraging more controlled socialising has really helped her get over her excitement of seeing another dog making it less of a novelty. Also using a technique similar to a 'lure' where they know you have a treat and will continue to look up and you and walk as closely as possible to you until they get the treat. This works well if you see a dog in the distance, let them see the dog and then carry out that technique when approaching them, if you make the the thought of getting a treat more exciting than seeing another dog it can make passing them a lot easier. Most dogs will do anything for a scooby snack! I have written a post about lead training puppies that some may find interesting and helpful. pup2dog.co.uk/how-to-train-your-puppy-on-a-lead/


You're not going to get a lot of support for dominance theory or being your pup's "pack leader" on here....


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## Pup2Dog (Nov 4, 2016)

ouesi said:


> You're not going to get a lot of support for dominance theory or being your pup's "pack leader" on here....


I understand where you are coming from and appreciate your reply. I am using these terms as a simple way of showing that you should be in control of your walk. In my posts i do not suggest ways of being dominant over your dog, just suggesting that they are still animals and can be the way they understand things. I may rethink my wording of this as i do not wish it to come across this way. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.


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## Muttly (Oct 1, 2014)

Oh god....
quote from Pup2Dog's blog:

"On a walk you can see who is the pack leader, if your dog is pulling ahead and deciding where you walk it suggests they believe that they are the boss."

 No chance that the pup is just excited? not been taught to LLW? Letting it's nose take the lead? :Banghead


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## Muttly (Oct 1, 2014)

Pup2Dog said:


> I understand where you are coming from and appreciate your reply. I am using these terms as a simple way of showing that you should be in control of your walk. In my posts i do not suggest ways of being dominant over your dog, just suggesting that they are still animals and can be the way they understand things. I may rethink my wording of this as i do not wish it to come across this way. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.


Posted same time as me.

It is dangerous to use these phrases, so please change it, especially if you don;t even believe in the dominance theory. 
Being dominant over your dog can translate to pinning/ear biting/choke chains or any other barbaric methods people connect to the word dominent.


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## Pup2Dog (Nov 4, 2016)

Muttly said:


> Posted same time as me.
> 
> It is dangerous to use these phrases, so please change it, especially if you don;t even believe in the dominance theory.
> Being dominant over your dog can translate to pinning/ear biting/choke chains or any other barbaric methods people connect to the word dominent.


Yes very true, my post shows that there are no need to use said methods.


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## Muttly (Oct 1, 2014)

There's also a dodgy paragraph in 'How to train your puppy' titled 'The Pack Leader' and it;s rubbish, sorry.

*The Pack Leader*
_Letting them know whose boss needs to happen as early as possible. There are lots of little things you can do to remind your dog that you're the pack leader. Different breeds can come with different 'personalities' but some can be misunderstood for dominance. For example, if your dog is always pulling in front of you on your walk, this means that they are in control and doing what they like, not just that they have lots of energy and want to run around. Also, dogs that like to bark is not always a sign of protection for you but more of 'hey they're my human back off'.

Putting rules in place will ensure that they are reminded of where they stand. Making sure they wait for you to walk out of the door before them, you eating your dinner before them and not letting them in a door until you say can all help this. If you are constantly being pulled around on walks you can try changing direction to where they didn't want to go, this shows them you're in charge of the walk. Also, you can use the 'lure' technique, holding a treat in your hand where you like them to walk will make them want to walk there, only letting them have it when they have been walking there properly and you are happy. Use this with a trigger word, "heel" and you'll be Crufts ready in no time.
_
It just makes me cringe, utter crap.


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## Pup2Dog (Nov 4, 2016)

Muttly said:


> There's also a dodgy paragraph in 'How to train your puppy' titled 'The Pack Leader' and it;s rubbish, sorry.
> 
> *The Pack Leader*
> _Letting them know whose boss needs to happen as early as possible. There are lots of little things you can do to remind your dog that you're the pack leader. Different breeds can come with different 'personalities' but some can be misunderstood for dominance. For example, if your dog is always pulling in front of you on your walk, this means that they are in control and doing what they like, not just that they have lots of energy and want to run around. Also, dogs that like to bark is not always a sign of protection for you but more of 'hey they're my human back off'.
> ...


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## Pup2Dog (Nov 4, 2016)

don't apologise feedback is welcome, i would like my posts to be as helpful as possible. I understand that the wording comes across in that way now you have said it, it is not the way it is intended. In a doggy world dominance can come down to subtle body language etc and with humans it is automatically thought of being associated with whips and chains and aggression. I was unaware of the negativity that came with these terms i mean to show that when your dog understands that listening and responding to you is a positive thing and met with reward and it is worth doing, dogs do not have to be aggressive or nasty if they are a dominant dog. I think of a pack leader as the one that people follow and learn from in a positive way, not someone that rules with an iron fist. I will definitely be rewording it and explaining in more detail my intent.


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## StormyThai (Sep 11, 2013)

Muttly said:


> you eating your dinner before them


OHMERGOD that's where I've been going wrong!!!!!
He is fed before me most nights...








Damn dog is taking over the world now ompus


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## Muttly (Oct 1, 2014)

:Hilarious
"Get in, I'm driving, we walk where I choose" :Blackalien


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## DogsGoneRoaming (Nov 4, 2016)

How much of a chance did you give the canny collar? One of my boys hated it but once we had a good adjustment period he was fine and it literally took a couple of months. It often involved me standing there like a wally in the park with him thrashing himself around in disgust at it being on his face but after a couple of weeks he stopped that then he generally accepted it.

I think the most important thing is finding a method and sticking with it and making it work for you. Chopping and changing between styles and methods isn't going to make a difference if you cant settle on one and give it a real good chance at working. 

Also does it really matter if people think its a muzzle?


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## Amelia66 (Feb 15, 2011)

It sounds like you have tried alot of things in a short amount of time. these things do take time to work so you need to give each one a few weeks/months along with training to see results. Headcollars/harnesses ect are not going to work alone without training.


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

.
re-posting directions i've posted at least 100X gets a wee bit tiresome, especially as i'm forced to post from my mobile, as my laptop died.
so i'll save myself a lotta typing 
Anyone who wants to get a dog to wear a headcollar, box muzzle, body-harness, OR * ANY * OTHER 'wearable' item such as collar or leash on a scared / resisting dog, it's all the same process:
positively pre-condition the object, which simply means "pair it with happy events", & then HABITUATE the dog to wearing it by putting it on for brief periods --- always try to have The Dog don the item, as much as possible.
.
for detailed step-by-step directions, i've posted instructions & links to videos many times -
search for "introduce a box muzzle" or "introduce a headcollar", but the process is the same for any wearable item: reward the dog for looking at it [mark & treat], taking a step toward it, sniff it, touch it... Any interaction, every interaction, is marked & rewarded.
Then hold it up - again, mark & reward all interactions, however tentative.
.
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A well-habituated dog can be called to the handler offf leash by holding up the [headcollar, box muzzle, front-clip harness, leash, __fill__in__the__blank_] & calling her or him by name -
wave the item a bit, & s/he comes running to eagerly "get dressed".
.
There should never be any need to stand around & pretend to be cool while a dog is thrashing, scratching at, rolling, rubbing, etc, to protest a piece of gear; if any dog fusses that much, IT * WASN'T * PROPERLY * INTRODUCED & / or HABITUATED, and specific to headcollars, odds are good U're using too doggone heavy a leash - which weight is carried directly on the bridge of the dog's nose.
Switch to a lighter leash without any needless bullsnaps, no double-thickness nylon webbing, & begin habituation *over*, once again pairing the headcollar with reliably happy events [dinner, anyone?...] & slowly increasing the time it's worn as the dog becomes comfy.
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secondarily, teach THE * DOG to put her or his nose >>> into the nose-loop, while U hold the headcollar.
Reward with a jackpot. [Don't know what a jackpot is? - look it up, LOL, i shouldn't have to do all the work! ;--D ]
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