# Halti, gentle leader, head collar etc...



## Lewiswalks (Aug 29, 2011)

Hey.

Our Airedale is now 7months as 3stone!

He quite offen walks well, but pulls whenever he knows where he is going or can see another animal.
We have to walk him on a harness because if we walk him on a collar or a slip lead he chokes and makes himself sick.

We try to walk him and give him treats. but he is not very food orientated when he is outside. Even with chicken or a bit of sausage, when you give it to him, he drops it on the floor. If we say good boy and give him a stroke he starts to run off and pull again.

When there are 2 of us, we walk him between us and step in front when he tries to get past. We do stop when he pulls make him sit, but as soon as we move off, he dart and pulls. Even when he is walking well, we still have to hold the lead about 4inches from his collar.

I would like to try a halti or head collar style lead. Just until we learn to walk better, then I can start to use a normal collar again.

What should I go for?


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## Dogless (Feb 26, 2010)

I really like the Dogmatic, it allows me to walk my big lump with absolute confidence :thumbup1:. I'm not sure how it would work with a constant and determined puller as Kilo walks very well most of the time with the occasional pull after irresistible smells etc, but I would expect it to work well.

I attach one end of a training lead to the headcollar and one to his normal collar to prevent any neck damage should Kilo lunge and also so he walks on his collar most of the time but I have the Dogmatic for extra control if needed.


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## Honey Bee (Mar 29, 2011)

I definitely recommend the Dogmatic as well. I've tried the others and this is the only one that does not ride into Honey's eyes. It is very well padded and she is happy wearing it. It is loose when it is not needed and works more like a horses headcollar. 

Honey has had problems with traffic due to a previous RTA and, although she is much better now, if a cars brakes squeal or a lorry or bus lets its airbrakes off she still jumps and pulls away. I can easily control her with the Dogmatic and she quickly calms down. Like Kilo she walks nicely to heel. I would not use it for a real puller either but it sounds like yours only occasionally pulls so it would be very good for this. It is given me a lot more confidence to walk near traffic because you know you wont be pulled over and this has really helped.


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## CB1985 (Oct 31, 2011)

I tried quite a few different ones with my lab, mainly for the benefit of my parents who walk him a lot and are not 100% steady on their feet against his 37kilo pulling! The one we now use is the gentle leader which Alfie seems happiest with, it's a much simpler design than the others and sits very nicely across his nose, without riding up into his eyes. It's also very very easy to take on and off (my dad claimed he couldn't work out how to take the there on and off so refused to use them!). I think different dogs prefer different ones and you may just have to try a few different ones before you settle on one 
Make sure you introduce whichever one you choose carefully, putting on for very short periods at first and giving him lots of praise and maybe some treats whenever he has it on and is calm, then build up how long he keeps it on for over time. Also make sure you fit it perfectly as a badly fitted head collar can do more harm than good.
It took Alfie a good few weeks of pawing at the head collar and rolling on the ground, but he now has no issue wearing it at all and walks perfectly on it 
I think it's important to continue to work on walking to heel along side using the head collar, but having it certainly has meant that Alfie gets more exercise as my parents can now walk him and enjoy it, without worrying about alfie lunging or pulling them over. 
Good luck


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## Archer (Aug 6, 2011)

I have tried a Halti and a gentle leader and neither did the trick with my Springer....in fact he can pull nearly as bad with them on as he can off. 

We were in Keswick a few weeks ago and the lady there in the great petshop recommended a Canny collar....it's brilliant. Unlike the halt etc it puts equal pressure on both side and can be dropped into a normal collar if required. He took to it on and walked nicely round Keswick for the first time ever. 

Fully recommended by me, means my Husband can walk him without him pulling and I can continue with his off lead work without fear if him ruining it (dog walks to heel off lead for me)


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## smokeybear (Oct 19, 2011)

Black Dog Head Halter

Agility Warehouse | Dog Agility Equipment and Supplies | Black Dog Head Halter

The Canny Collar

The Canny Collar - The Best Collar to Stop Dogs Pulling on the Lead - Home

The Dogalter

3 in 1 Training and House Line

The DogMatic

Dogmatic Headcollar

Gentle Controller

GenCon All-in-1

The Gentle Leader

The Gentle Leader at Canine Concepts

The Halti

http://www.companyofanimals.co.uk/halti.php

The K9 Bridle

K9Bridle - The Worlds First Dog Bridle, Head Harness, Head Collar

The Newtrix Easy Way

Angela Stockdale, Dog Aggression Specialist - About Angela: an aggressive dog is an unhappy dog

http://www.apbc.org.uk/system/files...aring_your_dog_for_a_muzzle_or_headcollar.pdf

http://www.deesdogs.com/documents/walkingyourdogwithheadhalter.pdf


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

it takes an average of 5 days to a week, in order to habituate the dog to any headcollar - 
during that period, either the usual collar is used, or a FRONT-CLIPPED H-harness is used to control 
the dog as a management tool, to prevent the dog continuing to practice pulling, lunging, chasing, etc.

if U have a seatbelt harness that isn't a huge breastplate affair, & which can be clipped at the chest 
to the leash, that will work admirably; it reduces the dog's leverage, & improves the handler's, 
so that simply by holding the hands =*Low*= & keeping one's wrists & forearms straight, an enormous dog 
can be restrained with minimal effort.

the introduction of a headcollar: 
Animal Behavior Resources Institute of American Humane Association

scroll down to - 
*Conditioning an Emotional Response* By: Jean Donaldson, 2009-06-23


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## wenstrand (Nov 24, 2011)

I really like the Dogmatic, it allows me to walk my big lump with absolute confidence .


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

Dogless said:


> I really like the Dogmatic, it allows me to walk my big lump with absolute confidence :thumbup1:. *I'm not sure how it would work with a constant and determined puller *as Kilo walks very well most of the time with the occasional pull after irresistible smells etc, but I would expect it to work well.
> 
> I attach one end of a training lead to the headcollar and one to his normal collar to prevent any neck damage should Kilo lunge and also so he walks on his collar most of the time but I have the Dogmatic for extra control if needed.


Diva is a determined puller, as witnessed when she pulled me on my face! So I can tell you that the dogmatic does work and I can get her walking next to me without any protest or discomfort.

However, do be sure the dog isn't teething. It is never a good idea to put a headcollar on a dog that is teething as it can cause pain.

An ordinary harness encourages pulling, as it is designed for working dogs to get ahead and sniff (or so I was told).

The Dogmatic is fixed as well so won't ride up or squash the muzzle.

The only problem I have is that being as Ferdie's one is size eight and Diva has a smaller head, I assumed a size 7 would be fine, but it is a little too big. That doesn't detract from its efficiency though, it is just too easy for her to get off. I need to get another hole put in the neck strap.

She has even been walked on Ferdie's size eight and has been fine.


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## grandad (Apr 14, 2011)

Lewiswalks said:


> Hey.
> 
> Our Airedale is now 7months as 3stone!
> 
> ...


There are a few around and it depends on the dog. I'd go for lessons to have someone show you how to walk the dog to heel properly firstly and secondly have them show you how to get focus from the dog. 
It sounds like his senses are closing down when he is out, (could be excitement) and that's why he won't take treats. His mind is elsewhere and all the head collars and harnesses you try may not work. They may help you control him, but your are not resolving the problem at source.


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

the OP, *emphasis added - *


Lewiswalks said:


> Our Airedale is now 7-MO & 3-stone!
> 
> He... often walks well, but *pulls whenever he knows where he's going or [sees] another animal.
> 
> We... walk him on a harness*... if we walk him on a collar or slip-lead, he chokes [himself & gags].


 - Where does the leash attach to this harness, Lewis? 
i'd suggest that if it's anywhere *other than* the forechest, I-E, above the shoulders, behind the ribs 
on the dog's back, etc, that HE is the one profiting from the harness, & is only improving his leverage. 

Dogs can do 35-mph by the time they're 3 to 4-MO, if they are not among the overexaggerated cripples & dwarves 
that have been bred since the 1960s; they are STRONGER pound for pound than a human - the average dog 
is 3x a human's strength per pound, meaning a 30# Beagle is the 4-footed equivalent of a 90# fit person; 
the muscle breeds, such as AmBulls, AmStaff/APBT, Rott, etc, are *4x* human-strength by the pound - 
a 60# pittie is the equivalent of a 240# person, in FIT condition: not a sofa-slug, but a running-back, able 
to gallop the length of a football field [100-yards = 300-feet] & barely break a sweat, then repeat it!, at 35-mph...

we pathetic humans can barely break 15-mph, & that for short periods only. 
our REFLEXES are slower; our hands can snatch themselves from a striking snake's approaching mouth, 
but a dog can BITE full-force & full-mouth 5 to 9 times *per second*; it's rather as if a machine-gun 
had a mouth & teeth, it's that fast.

IMO, we need all the mechanical advantages that we can muster, given a chronic puller - since the dog 
has 4 on the floor, faster acceleration, better leverage, faster reflexes, & is more-fit than the average human.

fastening the leash *to the chest of the harness* provides much-better mechanical leverage for the handler: 
we can now keep our hands low, wrists & forearms straight, & control a big dog with minimal muscle-effort. 
it's not necessary to have whopping upper-body strength, with the help of the chest-clipped harness, we can 
move the dog with minimal force ===> across our own path [depending upon which side the dog walks on: 
if on the LEFT, the leash is going under their right-ear to the chest; if the dog's on my RIGHT, the leash goes 
under their left-ear to the chest-clip].

If i use gentle, steady traction, i move the dog EX: from my left, across my own path, step forward & shorten 
the leash slightly, & continue at an angle to our former direction; *if i step BACK & continue the traction, the dog 
will be turned in toward me, around their own rear-legs like a pivot, & end by facing me - Easily turned into an 
Emergency U-Turn, so that we can either avoid the dog's trigger, or back-up to get under threshold, & begin 
some B-Mod with the dog aware, but calm.*

we cannot do any effective B-mod if the dog is reacting, or so intent on their trigger as to be oblivious. 
that's why *under threshold* is such a key concept, & why determining the dog's *earliest* sign 
of arousal or reaction is critical - Once we see 1 or more of those earliest signs, WE = STOP =
& begin B-Mod there, or even back-up a bit to get the dog's riveted attention off the trigger, to use DS/CC: 
DeSensitization & Counter-Conditioning. 


Lewiswalks said:


> We try to walk him & give... treats, but *he's not very food-oriented when he's outside.* Even with chicken
> or a bit of sausage, when you give it..., he drops it... If we say good boy &... stroke [him], he starts to run off
> & pulls again.


this sounds as if he's definitely *over his threshold of reaction - * IOW, too close to his trigger.

back-up to the point that he CAN & WILL take a tasty treat; make them very high-value, very Very small - 
a pea-sized or even half-pea sized tidbit! - & stinky: meat-based cat kibble can be used, but it should be 
corn-free if possible [AKA maize in any form: corn-syrup, maize-flour, grits, meal, anything of maize]. 
cat-kibble has the advantages of being dry & easy to carry, & if kept in the freezer in bulk & taken out in small 
portions as needed, can be kept for 12-mos or more, still fresh. 

i've used freeze-dried lamb-lung, beef-liver, venison chips [Mother Hubbard AKA "Wellness"], pouch or canned 
tuna / salmon / mackerel / sardines, & other nice stinky stuff... 
LICKABLE treats are especially good, as the dog *cannot drop them - * either the dog licks it, 
or ignores it: no waste. 

*refillable food-tubes* from an outdoor sports supply are cheap, washable, easily filled, & can be 
REFILLED from a bulk container; low-fat cream-cheese AKA Neufchatel, plus any canned or pouch fish, 
makes a lovely lickable treat; about 1 part fish to 3 parts low-fat crm-chz, mix very well, 
pack into an empty well-washed marge tub or yogurt-tub, & DATE it; keep it refrigerated.

the leftovers in a filled-tube can also be refrigerated for later re-use: 
EXTRUDE an inch or more of fresh goop, CUT IT OFF & discard it; WIPE the tube-tip very well, snap on 
the cover, DATE & NOTE the number of hours it was out; after 6 or more hours total, toss it, wash the tube, 
re-fill & put on a new date. 


Lewiswalks said:


> When there are 2 of us, we walk him between us & step in front [to block him] when he tries to get past.
> We do stop when he pulls [&] *make him sit*...
> 
> but as soon as we move off, he darts & pulls.
> ...


 - when U "make him sit", is he sitting willingly? Or are U literally *pushing him into a sit?* 
if he's being 'made to', i'd change that; back-up to the point where he is capable of SITTING when asked, 
without any physical prompts at all - no touching his butt, no pulling up on the leash. If he cannot SIT on cue 
at home, without distractions, *promptly - * then U must start there, get a prompt SIT 4 times of 5 single cues, 
without any distractions, then begin to move into other areas: the garden, the front stoop, the sidewalk, etc, 
each time achieving 80% compliance [4 times on 5 single cues] before RAISING THE CRITERION: 
a new location, adding more distractions, getting closer to distractions, the handler *moving away from him,* 
etc. Each new level of distraction or challenge must be proofed, before dog & handler move on to the next. 


Lewiswalks said:


> I'd like to try a... headcollar... Just until we learn to walk better, then I can start to use a normal collar...


i'd suggest clipping the leash to his ChEST first, as a management tool & to begin B-Mod with good control; 
if U cannot *turn his gaze & body* from orienting on his trigger, U will not be able to stop him escalating: 
getting more & more aroused, which is only 'rehearsing' his arousal & becoming more fluent.

the headcollar requires gradual habituation: U cannot simply "put it on & go". 
It sets the dog up to resist, fuss, hate the sensation, be totally distracted, etc. 
it takes a solid 5-days, & often a full week, for a dog to become entirely oblivious of the feeling 
of a strap across their nose; it's no different than a human WEARING GLASSES for the first time, 
they feel weird on our faces, heavy on our ears, 'pinch' our nose, & so on... after a few days, we no longer 
even notice them in a matter of minutes after putting them on; in a week, we don't notice them seconds after 
we don them.



grandad said:


> There are a few [designs] around, & [which suits] depends on the dog.
> 
> I'd go for lessons to have someone show you how to walk the dog to heel properly first, & secondly,
> have them show you how to get focus from the dog.


it's true that designs vary somewhat, & some dogs are fitted better by one than another - but the average dog 
has a similar head-shape, only size really varies widely.

BRACHY dogs [short-faced breeds or mixes] generally have the hardest time being fitted. 


grandad said:


> *It sounds like his senses [close] down when he's out*, could be excitement,
> & that's why he won't take treats.


i don't think his senses are *shut-down*; i think they're intensely engaged, but not, sadly, 
by fascination with his handler.  he's engrossed by sounds, sights, scents, OTHER THAN his person - 
they are only a means of getting out there, once he's out, he's oblivious to them.

teaching him attention AT HOME comes first, with minimal distractions - 
EX, an instant response to the sound of his Sacred Name, said in a whisper, 
& rewarded with something: a treat, a wonderful game of tug, etc - to make that Name irresistible.

the book, _'Click to Calm'_ is an excellent DIY-manual for any reactive issue whatever: 
fears, aggro, undersocialized, over-excited, distractible, barky, what-have-U. :yesnod: 


grandad said:


> His mind is elsewhere, & all the head collars & harnesses you try may not work.
> *They may help you control him, but you're not resolving the problem at source.*


to quote Brian Kilcommons, _*"Control first - Then, train."*_ 
we MUST control, AKA manage the dog & environs, before we can begin to train - otherwise, it's all 
a crapshoot, & we will accomplish nothing. :nonod:

For Example:
we cannot 'train' a young dog with no recall by turning her/him loose in a wide-open unfenced field, 
with joggers on a footpath, woods edging the field, a soccer game going on the pitch, other dogs running riot, 
sheep in the distance, & deer in the woods - THEN call the dog, _"Sabre, COME..."_ - yeah, right... 
:lol: Good luck with that.

we begin to teach RECALL inside the house, even on leash if need be - 
then off leash in the house, then out of sight in the house, then from one floor to another, then from 
the INdoors called to the OUTdoors into the garden/yard, then on a leash or long-line in the garden/yard, 
then in a larger fenced area on a leash, then on a long-line, then on a DRAG-line, then... deep breath!, 
in an UNFenced area on a long-line, then on a drag-line, then on a tab-leash [a foot or so long], etc.

THEN we achieve a truly reliable recall, with the dog clearly proofed against almost-any imaginable quirk.

it's a step by step process, proofed all the way. *Attention* should be the same process: step by step, 
proofed each step, adding *distractions* & *distance* & *duration* along the way, as we go - 
in each step.


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## Lewiswalks (Aug 29, 2011)

leashedForLife said:


> the OP, *emphasis added - *
> 
> - Where does the leash attach to this harness, Lewis?


We have a Doxlock harness with a handle as we are trying to train him as a PAT dog and they advise this type of harness. 
BUT... he also wears a collar and the other end of the lead attaches to it.
So I actually walk him with a collar, the harness is just for security. If he is really pulling after another dog, then the collar makes him choke and eventually be sick.

Thank you for such a detailed post. Lots of great info and I will try all your suggestions.

In response... I cant attach the lead to the chest.

When you say "back-up to the point that he CAN & WILL take a tasty treat"
what do you mean? - as in, go home and start again? or turn around?

If we turn around when we are walking, within a few paces he'll be pulling again in the other direction.

Sitting... when we are out, sometimes he is in a fixated and defiant mood. He will avoid eye contact and will not sit or look at us. Other times he will sit on command.
At home, he will only sit if I have a treat. But If he knows I have treats, he will sit anyway. I walk off, he follows, when I stop he sits. 
I have been practising getting him to sit from about 5meters away and this works quite well.

With recall, again he will always come if I have a treat. If he is laying down or washing he will never come. Also, quite offen, he will stand in the doorway looking at me, I say 'come' and he literally do nothing. If I move toward him he will run off and try to start a game. If I have a treat, he will come and sit.

The problem is when I dont have a treat.

He has a very sensitive tummy. We cant give him anything fatty or rich. All we can give him is crunchy rawhide, raw or boiled chicken, kibble or a tiny bit of cheese. But I will deffo try some cat kibble!

When correcting him or trying to stop him pulling I always end up pulling him into my path. So I trip up if I dont stop.

At the moment we walk him once a day for about an hour, but if he goes to the park and runs around with other dogs then its a little less, but obviously burns more energy. Then we always have a little training session in the garden usually about 10treats worth where I get him to lay (without sit), stand, touch, get him to walk him heel for a while and sit when i stop, roll over, stay, sit from a distance etc. 
Then another play for 5-10mins. Plus he plays quite a lot with my other pup(who cant go out yet).
Should I walk him twice a day? If im not working, would it be useful to walk him 5times a day just for 10mins each? or would it not matter?

Also, about introducing the head collar... Wouldn't I just put it on him to wear around the house for a couple of days to get him used to it before I start using it to correct him?


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## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

Lewiswalks said:


> We have a Doxlock harness with a handle as we are trying to train him as a PAT dog and they advise this type of harness.
> BUT... he also wears a collar and the other end of the lead attaches to it.
> So I actually walk him with a collar, the harness is just for security. If he is really pulling after another dog, then the collar makes him choke and eventually be sick.
> 
> ...


First off, you don't use a headcollar to "correct" him. This is how they work: you hold the leash so that his nose stays down, not right down but at a normal walking level. You cannot do that with a loose leash on that end. If he can't get his nose up, he cannot pull. It works like a horses bridle or headcollar.

The proper way to introduce the headcollar is to hang it over your hand which has a treat in it, let him have a good sniff at it, then give him the treat. Do this a few times. Next step is to hang it over his nose, with treat; again several times. Once he is used to that, you can put it on him, again with treat or fuss, and let him wear it around the house. When you first take him out with it, do not attach it to anything. Just let him get used to walking with it on.

Some dogs will take to it straight away, others won't, especially when they realise it is stopping them from doing what they want. He may try to paw it off once he realises. This you can just ignore and stand still.

Diva hasn't tried to pull hers off at all, whereas if Ferdie sees something he wants to go after like another dog, he will try to paw it off as he knows it is stopping him. He is extremely stubborn; she is not.


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## TabithaJ (Apr 18, 2010)

I would urge you to avoid the Canny Collar if your dog is a real puller. I tried it on my Lab and he swiftly learned how to lean into it and carry on pulling. As it connects at the back of the dog's neck, it's really still like using a 'normal' collar.

The *Dogmatic *is by far the best I have tried - and frankly I've tried most of them! The Dogmatic is the *ONLY* one that really helps.

I found the Gentle Leader a nightmare - the slipline over the nose kept riding up into my dog's eyes, and he was visibly uncomfortable. This was despite my having ensured that it was correctly sized and fitted.

The Halti works BUT again, the slipline tends to ride up into the dog's eyes.

The Black Dog Training Halter is a good one; I would recommend either this or the Dogmatic.

If you email Dogmatic, they are very helpful re sizing!
*
ALSO - never, ever use a headcollar with a retractable lead/Flexi lead. It can cause real injury to the dog.*


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

Lewiswalks said:


> We have a Doxlock harness with a handle... we [hope] to train him as a PAT dog & they advise this type...


Doxlock photo: http://tinyurl.com/bqpldxg

i'd retire the Doxlock for the nonce, as he's only being enabled by the above-the-spine leverage - notice where 
the leash attaches: He can easily rear & power himself forward with his rear-legs, letting U 'carry' the weight 
of his own forehand, or just lean massively on the breastcollar like a horse in harness to a wagon, when on all-4s. 


Lewiswalks said:


> ...he also wears a collar, & the other-end of the lead attaches to [that collar].
> 
> ...I actually walk him with a collar, the harness is just for security.
> If he [really pulls toward] another dog, then the collar makes him choke & eventually [gag or vomit].


then neither the behind-the-shoulder harness attachment, nor the collar [a buckle AKA tag-collar, i presume?] 
is really much help, sadly. :nonod: U need better management-tools in order to control his forehand, preferably 
his gaze & body-orientation vis-a-vis other dogs, possible prey, & maybe other humans, if he's distracted 
by all 3 [or more] categories.

any inexpensive H-harness, preferably with a chest-ring, would provide the needed control of his forehand, 
without needing any habituation whatever; put it on, fit it SMOOTH & SNUG, ensure the buckles are well away 
from his tender armpits, & yer off! :thumbup1: I'd recommend trying one off the shelf locally, if possible - 
it's safer than ordering on-line, as even custom harnesses are only as good as the measurements provided, 
or the design of that particular harness & the dog's proportions, tho H-harnesses are pretty forgiving, 
& fit a wide variety of body-types. A minimum of 3 adjustment-buckles or slides is good - 4 is even better.



Lewiswalks said:


> When you say "back-up to the point that he CAN & WILL take a tasty treat"
> what do you mean? -
> as in, go home and start again? Or turn around?


EX, take 5 steps back, speak his Sacred name, offer a treat when he glances Ur way. 
if he takes the treat, U are far-enuf removed; if he refuses to even examine it, U are still too close.

this assumes, of course, that he's learnt ATTENTION [look to U] when he hears his Name, at home - 
under minimal distraction, with repeated success.

my term 'Sacred Name' refers to the idea of keeping his Name untainted by any association with bad things: 
scolding, being called for a bath or claw-trim, being CALLED to leave the fun of other dogs, etc. His Name needs 
to be unsullied by any unhappy associations, insofar as it's possible; HE defines 'unhappy consequence', 
humans do not - it's his impressions which are paramount.

U might consider re-training him with a *new name* just for training, that means *PAY ATTENTION* 
& *POTENTIAL REWARDS* - it's easier than 'washing' his current name free of past associations.

U can keep the current-name for chit-chat or casual requests, which he need not comply with - his casual or 
everyday name is compliance-optional, his training Name is MANAGED so that he complies when it is used.

if U suspect he will not COMPLY - don't use that Name! :biggrin:


Lewiswalks said:


> If we turn around [while] walking, within a few paces he [pulls] in the [new] direction.


then keep turning - 
or reward only loose-leash walking with a lickable treat, which requires he stay within reaching distance 
to get the goody, which constantly advances as U travel along...



Lewiswalks said:


> SIT ON CUE - when we're out, sometimes he is in a fixated and *defiant mood.
> He'll avoid eye contact & will not sit or look at us.*
> 
> Other times he'll sit on command.


i'd dump the term *defiant*, along with anything else that paints the dog as willfully rebellious, 
'dominant', stubborn, etc; odds are excellent that they're wildly inaccurate, but even if they ARE accurate, 
they set-up an immediate adversarial relationship, which only inhibits good communication. I'd toss them all. 


Lewiswalks said:


> ... sometimes he is in a fixated & _*defiant mood.*_*
> 
> He'll avoid eye contact & will not sit or look at us.*


those 3 things: 
- avoid eye contact =from= the human.
- avoid SIT [a vulnerable pose] - STANDING = free to escape.
- won't visually engage / offer eye-contact TO the human.

are all, also, symptomatic of anxiety; they indicate he's worried, they are distance-increasing or appeasing 
signals, depending upon the context & other events at the time. I'd say he's anxious; anxious dogs don't want 
to SIT or STAND or DROP - they want to _*move*_, preferably away from the source of their anxiety. 


Lewiswalks said:


> At home, he'll only sit if I have a treat.


how does he _*know*_ that U have, or don't have, a treat?

tip: 
1 - get them OFF OF Ur PERSON, & into the environment - 
2 - use a MARKER to bridge the gap between a desired behavior ['Click!'] 
& the reward [from a covered candy-box on the mantel, for example - 
or from a table, a closed waist-bag, a closed drawer, a fist behind one's back...].


Lewiswalks said:


> ...If he knows I have treats, he'll sit... I walk off, he follows, when I stop he sits.


again - How does he *know* that treats are present?

weaning the obvious lure is to be done as early as possible; if he is still dependent upon lures, this is a 
training failure by the human, not a behavioral flaw in the dog; dogs are opportunistic & self-pleasing, 
like any other species. *We must teach dogs that pleasing US ultimately results in pleasing results, 
for them, as well - it's a mutual benefit contract.*


Lewiswalks said:


> I've been practising getting him to sit from about 5-meters away, & this works quite well.


if he can SIT on cue, at least 4 times of 5, on one cue each time - 
then the difficulty of the dog 'refusing' to SIT ON CUE while on leash, seems even more apparently due 
to anxiety, emotional conflict, etc. The distant-cue puts him further from the supposed source of his worry: 
the human-handler, theoretically. 


Lewiswalks said:


> With recall, again he will always come if I have a treat.


how does he *know*?

what's the clue? Get rid of it, or minimize it.

a *front-clip harness with a 20 to 30-ft long-line* means he must come when called - If U absolutely must, 
reel him in hand-over-hand, but _*always*_ reward him on arrival; if food won't do, play tug, play fetch, 
or let him pursue a flirt-pole with a sturdy rag to chase & 'kill'.

if he's not deeply interested in TUG, teach him "Super Tug" - directions are posted on the forum, 
just search for the term "in quotes".


Lewiswalks said:


> If he's laying down or [self-grooming], he'll never come [when called].


never is a long time - it is possible that he has YET to come when called whilst lying-down or grooming, 
but that does not mean that he will Never Do So, in the future.  Hope springs eternal... 


Lewiswalks said:


> ...often, *he'll stand in the doorway looking at me, I say 'come' & he literally does nothing.
> 
> If I move toward him, he'll run off & try to start a game.* If I have a treat, he will come & sit.


again, a prolonged FREEZE can be a signal indicating either play-soliciting, or anxiety / tension / conflict.

running-off to solicit a chase-game can be a redirection of his worry, or simply taking an opportunity 
to engage in play - he's learned to begin a game this way, & it's neither being difficult nor evasive - He just wants 
to play, & this is one way he's found which works. [shrug] 


Lewiswalks said:


> The problem is when I don't have a treat.


removing the SIGNS that predict 'treats are on offer' or 'treats are off the menu' will help encourage compliance; 
using a MARKER to bridge the time-gap is strongly suggested, as otherwise the delay will slow or stop his learning.


Lewiswalks said:


> He has a very sensitive tummy. We can't give him anything fatty or rich. All we can give him is crunchy rawhide,
> raw or boiled chicken, kibble or a tiny bit of cheese. But I will deffo try some cat kibble!


 some other LICKABLE treats: 
- low-fat cottage cheese, low-fat ricotta, low-fat live culture YOGURT [preferably all organic dairy products, 
to avoid rBGH, antibiotics, etc - which are now practically standard in all non-organic dairy-products]. 


Lewiswalks said:


> When correcting him or trying to stop him pulling, I always end up pulling him into my [own] path.
> ...I trip [over or into him] if I don't stop.


this sounds more like inco-ordination on Ur part than any fault of the dog's. 

i suspect that U are OVER-correcting & dragging him into Ur own path, without reducing or re-directing 
Ur own momentum - Does that sound possible? 


Lewiswalks said:


> ...we walk him once [daily] for about an hour, but if he goes to the park & runs... with other dogs then
> it's a little less [on leash], but obviously [he then] burns more energy.


do U have a bicycle? Jogging him with a bike, whilst he's safe;y secured to a k9-Springer, is a very efficient 
& safe way to give him exercise while preventing him from pulling-over the bike - he's UNDER the center 
of gravity, secured to the bike-frame. SEARCH the forum for k9-Springer or 'bike jogging'.

there are several PF-uk members who use this form of exercise regularly. 


Lewiswalks said:


> ...we always have a little training session in the garden, usually about 10 treats worth... [we practice]
> DOWN [from standing], stand, touch [target with his nose?], ...walk [at] heel for a while, & [auto-sit] when i stop,
> roll-over, [sit- or down- or stand-]stay, sit from a distance, etc.
> 
> ...


i'd try to offer more exercise - 
maybe arrange to meet dogs he really enjoys as playmates, by arrangement, every day or every other day? 
U could find a fenced play-space like a clay tennis court, a fenced car-park, or someone's garden to share - 
turnabout play-dates in one's own garden/yard alternating with the other dog-owners' place, for instance?

i'd say that one walk daily is nowhere near enuf to learn good leash-manners; but again, management 
is imperative for him to avoid rehearsing the un-wanted habit of pulling.

short, frequent, repeated lessons are absorbed faster & retained better than are marathons - 
that's why studying thru-out the class is so much more effective than cramming for a test. 

training DURING commercials on TV is especially good: short, self-limited, very clear criterion, & so on. 


Lewiswalks said:


> ...about introducing the headcollar...
> 
> Wouldn't I just put it on him to wear around the house for a couple of days to get him used to it, before I start using it
> to correct him?


short answer? No. 

i introduce it with treats BESIDE the headcollar, on the floor; then treats for TOUCHING the headcollar, 
as i hold it; then TARGET the noseband as i hold it, TARGET the *opening* as i hold it, 
*stick one's nose INTO the opening* as i hold it open, *Keep one's nose in the nose-band,* 
then *keep one's nose in WHILE i slip the neck-band ends together,* then *while i HOLD the ends together*, 
& finally *while i BUCKLE the ends for a few seconds.*

Desensitization To The Gentle Leader Head Collar - YouTube

Muzzle Training - YouTube

Desensitizing Your Dog to a Muzzle - YouTube

Teaching A Dog To Wear A Muzzle (Muzzle Training) - YouTube

then the dog wears it: 
- only while eating for 2 or 3 days 
[fill the bowl, call the dog, ask for SIT, put it on, SET THE BOWL DOWN, when the dog finishes CALL THE DOG 
for 'dessert', "sit" - remove the headcollar, PRAISE, reward, release].

- then wears it FOR HAPPY EVENTS *plus* meals, 
for another 2 or 3 days: leashed walks, games, petting or grooming - anything the dog enjoys, 
but the leash is on the OTHER collar / harness for control; the headcollar is only worn for habituation 
& happy associations.

if the dog likes car-rides, that's fine - but SECURE the dangling clip for the leash, safely out of reach! 
or the end will almost-surely be gnawed-off while the dog is not watched, in the back-seat, making the headcollar 
useless, or into an expensive neck-collar. Oops. 

- *finally, one day the dog Alerts happily when s/he SEES the headcollar come out:* 
they approach, shove their head into the noseband impatiently, wag & wiggle, & are full of happy anticipation - 
*'Where are we going? What are we doing?'* is the dog's obvious message.

FIT it properly: 
with the Gentle Leader, fit is especially critical: the NECK strap must be *high & snug*.
it should be as close to the ears as possible, & NO FINGER should fit under it! 
think of a watchband - that's the idea; it should not rotate, nor slide-down, but stay put.

that SNUG neck-strap allows the NOSEBAND to be adjusted as large as possible, SET so that the lower 
edge of the noseband barely reaches the *upper-edge of the leather of the dog's nose*. 
this precludes the dog thumbing it off: it won't give sufficient slack to go over the nose & off.

NOW - clip the leash on the noseband, & go for a *short, happy, brisk 1st-walk* - 
5-minutes is plenty, & that may be too long; keep the dog moving, briskly!

The more opportunities the dog has to stop & fuss at the collar WITH THE WEIGHT of the leash on the noseband, 
the more likely s/he is to be suddenly resistant or unhappy with the headcollar; DON't use the usual leash 
if it has heavy hardware, or it's an extra-heavy leash; it's *overkill* & not needed, a light leash & small 
but sturdy clip are all that are needed, with a headcollar.

a BULL SNAP, or any oversize hardware, or a double-thick nylon leash, or an extra W-i-d-e leash, etc, 
only add needless weight & will make the dog uncomfortable, as that weight is transferred to their nose.

a 6-ft long standard nylon leash, one-half-inch wide, will easily handle dogs up to 80# on a headcollar.

i use veg-tanned 6-ft leather leashes, 3/4-inch wide, for dogs over 90#. 
LIGHTER is better - so that the dog does not try to thumb-off the noseband, but happily moves along.


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## Lewiswalks (Aug 29, 2011)

Update...

Well I found a head harness in a charity shop. It had no name, no instructions or any information. I did recognise the material it was made from and it looks like it was made by a local company who make all there harness's and leads by hand.

Its basicly a wide lead with soft red fabric and a metal 'D' ring at the end to make a slip lead, but the collar section has a stitch witch makes a second loop. So you get a figure of 8 shape slip lead.
I have figured it out so that the first section goes over the nose, then cross over goes under the neck and the othr loop round the top of the neck.
I like it because the lead pulls from the side of the head, not the muzzle.

Pippin does try to paw at it sometimes, but generally walks perfectly. I have a normal lead on as well.

He walks well, and most of the time i am holding the lead with one finger. when he starts to walk in front, I dont pull, just hold the lead by my side and he slows down and comes back to my side.

Looks like problem solved.

Thank you to everyone that posted links and guidance.


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## smokeybear (Oct 19, 2011)

Lewiswalks said:


> We have a Doxlock harness with a handle as we are trying to train him as a PAT dog and they advise this type of harness.
> 
> *When did PAT start advising on harnesses? I am a PAT Temperamant Assessor and this is news to me?*
> 
> ...


I have posted the link which gives you detailed instruction on how to introduce a head halter.


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## Lewiswalks (Aug 29, 2011)

smokeybear said:


> When did PAT start advising on harnesses? I am a PAT Temperamant Assessor and this is news to me?
> 
> Also if you look at the PAT 3 harnesses are not permitted on visits.
> I am also unaware of any training courses run by PAT to be PAT dogs?


I work in a dementia care home and have met a few of the PAT dog owners. they all used harnesses and advised me to get the doxlock one.
I have read on other forums that the doxlock harnesses are particularly good for service dogs and any sort of dog that will be wearing it for a long time as it is the most comfortable. One thick strap round the chest and one under the ribs. 
If harnesses are not permitted on visits then it should be made known to the 3 people I have met at work and the PAT team at the Suffolk show this year.

As far as the training, I have a training tick sheet which tells you how to desensitise your dog and get them used to strange environments. for example, lots of socialisation with children and praising the dog for being calm in these situations. Its not a course.

But if your an assessor, then your probably the person I need to talk to about it. So if you have any advice I would be very grateful.


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