# Whine, whine, whine...



## SpinningNickel (Aug 10, 2013)

Hi everyone. I'm getting a bit desperate, so I'm really hoping everyone can help! Sorry if this is a mega-long post, but I want to give as much information as possible:

*My Dog*

Name: Jess
Age: approx. 18 months
Breed: saluki cross (possibly w/ whippet)
Temperament: intelligent, stubborn, high-strung

Background: I adopted Jess about 3 weeks ago. She had been fostered with the same family for nearly a year after being rescued from a small shed where she was being kept with a pregnant pit bull. She was fostered with the family's 2 dogs, a lurcher and a jack russell. They had tried to rehome her once prior to us meeting her, which was unsuccessful (she was sent to a farm and left to run loose, which due to her breed did not end so well for a couple of lambs; the adopting family were very fond of her but felt they couldn't take the risk of keeping her as another farmer might shoot her if she attacked a lamb on their land). She has definitely not been well-socialised in her formative months. She does not seem to understand the concept of play, for instance. She will occasionally have a mad 5 minutes where she pounces on one of her soft toys, but she will not play 'with' you at all and doesn't touch her toys when she's left home alone. There are some signs that she may have been abused as well, such as behaving badly if strangers come near her back end, not looking strangers in the eye, etc.

My environment: I have a small back-to-back terrace house over 3 levels. Our garden is small and only enclosed by a low fence, so if she goes out there she stays on a 15m recall lead. We do lots of road walking and have nearby woods and a large park for her exercise.

*The Problem*

WHINING. But this is quite specific.

Jess is high-strung and she reacts badly to other dogs in the park sometimes (usually when they are off-lead; she is not allowed off-lead due to poor recall and a high chase drive, feels very threatened when a loose dog approaches her, barks and growls and adopts a very submissive posture). However, she does not react badly to most people, other dogs who walk past on lead, smaller dogs, loud noises (fireworks/thunder/sirens)... Completely nonplussed! When we're out and about she is a dream most of the time.

When she is left home alone (about 3 days per week), she is shut in the kitchen and displays some separation anxiety when we first leave. She barks and growls and you can hear her through the door. However, we have recorded her (to make sure she wasn't getting herself into a right state or upsetting the neighbours) and she only keeps this up for 5-10 minutes before settling down and staying quiet the rest of the day. This also is not at all triggered by us doing certain things (putting on shoes, fetching keys, etc.) so I don't feel she has terribly severe separation anxiety.

At night, she sleeps at the end of the bed and sleeps through the night with us, no problems.

So, on to the problem-problem. When we are home, in the house, WITH her, she whines and whines and whines. She clearly wants to go outside. We will be sat watching TV, and she will whine at the door and pace back and forth through the ground floor relentlessly. She will does this even IMMEDIATELY after a long walk and having done her business, so we are confident she does not 'need' to go out. The pacing and her body language very much suggest that this is at least partially anxiety, and not purely attention-seeking.

If we let her into the garden, she may stop for a few minutes, but will then start to behave in the same way at the garden gate. She doesn't just want to be outside, she wants to be out walking.

*What We've Tried*

Firstly, she has been seen by a vet recently and there is no suggestion that she is ill or in pain, and the fact that this is so specific makes me fairly confident of this.

Before anyone asks about exercise: she gets walked 5 miles per day, minimum, and sometimes as much as 10, every single day! Our routine when we're both working is:

Morning, first thing: short walk (20 minutes) or jog (I ride a bike, she trots alongside) 1-3 miles
Morning, just before work: a brisk 5-10 minute whip round the block, to give her a toilet break before I go. 1/4-1/2 mile
Afternoon, after work: long walk (1-1.5 hours) 3-5 miles
Evening: 10-20 minute walk round the block, for a pre-bedtime toilet break 1/2-1 mile

When one or the other of us is off work (3-4 days per week), she will get even more than this throughout the day. We vary her route and take her new places frequently.

Initially, we tried to ignore. When we do this, however, she escalates the behaviour. She will jump onto the sofa, pull things off the windowsill, and climb into the window. She will start to howl or scratch the door, or pace up and down stairs as well as the ground floor. She will hurtle herself down the stairs toward the door, which is dangerous! She will try to open the door, and chew my keys if they've been left in the door, as she's cottoned on very quickly that they keep it closed.

We briefly tried to distract her with toys or treats, to understand if this was just attention-seeking. This does not work at all -- she will not respond or interact with us, and won't even take her favourite treats when she's anxious.

We equally-briefly tried to correct -- dog-whisperer-style sharp sounds and a tap in the ribs. She did respond to this somewhat, although she would resume whining quickly. However, when it became apparent that there was genuine anxiety and not just attention-seeking driving the behaviour, I stopped this for fear of making it worse.

We have tried positive reinforcement; so, for example, she will pace and whine but the moment she sits down or is quiet for a minute, we give her a lot of attention and praise, and try to give her treats, although as mentioned above, she often won't take them which makes this difficult. So far, this has not had any consistent effect.

Currently, her beloved dog bed is in the kitchen. When she whines at the door, I take her by the collar, avoiding eye contact, take her into the kitchen to her bed, and make her lie down. (I pushed her down the first couple of times, but she now lies straight down when I take her, so she's got the measure of this exercise.) I will stand there for a moment, looking away from her, and then walk away. She will normally get straight up and resume her behaviour, but I simply continue taking her back, over and over, each time she starts whining. Again, I try to treat her once she has stayed there for a short time, but she won't always take it as she'll be in a sulk. In order for this to have much effect, I sometimes have to sit on the floor next to her (ignoring her) -- she then knows she cannot get up and will eventually settle down, go into a calmer state, and when she finally gets up her anxiety has calmed. Having said that, this does require me to sit next to her on the floor for 10-15 minutes, which is not ideal.

We've also tried herbal kalms. Sometimes we see a result and sometimes we don't, so I'm not convinced it's the tablets which are helping, rather than something else we've done that day. Also, I only want this to be a temporary measure while we sort out... whatever it is.

*When She Stops*

She stops at dinner time. She's fairly well-behaved about us eating. We get her sat there with the sad puppy-eyes (I never give her anything unless and until we've finished eating, although my partner sometimes does... I tell him off, but he needs more training than her, the softie!) but she doesn't snatch or whine or otherwise beg. However, her anxious behaviour just stops in its tracks, so it's clear that the stimulus of us eating something potentially-delicious is more important to her.

She will also stop if we've had a long walk on a warm day, so she is clearly just absolutely exhausted. However, when the weather is mild she will go almost endlessly and still whine as soon as we're home.

*So!*

I am sorry for the length of the post, but hopefully all this information makes sense to someone who can help. My partner has never, ever had dogs. I grew up with dogs, but they were largely outside farm dogs, and I haven't a dog in years, so we are both quite inexperienced. I've done a lot of reading and research and am willing to do the work, but I feel like this is a combination of her history, anxiety, and attention-seeking so I don't know how to approach it. The only information I can find consistently about whining is related to separation anxiety, and I really don't think that's the problem here.

FYI as well, we are in regular contact with her 'foster parents,' and they say she never whined, except a minor one when she needed to go out for the toilet. They are bemused.

I love this dog to pieces and she's so perfect for our lifestyle in so many ways, but this one thing seems to be getting worse and is really starting to strain my relationship with her, so it needs sorting!!


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## Lurcherlad (Jan 5, 2013)

Sorry you are having problems with your lurcher.

I have a rescued lurcher and they do have some particular ways about them.

Mine did not know how to play with toys. Don't think he'd ever been played with but after 18 months he will have short spells of play. He will never be like a BC that wants to play for hours though. He has various teddies and a squeaky squirrel which he loves. He has just started pouncing on the tennis balls that we gave him when we first got him. 

The lifestyle you are giving is completely different to your dog's old one and it will probably take some time for it to settle. I know my lurcher would be off like a shot if I left the front door open or let him off lead! 

Hounds are very sensitive and do not respond well to being punished IMO. Especially if they have been treated harshly in the past. 

Is it possible that your dog is getting too much exercise and is over-stimulated? I tend to walk mine for 1-2 hours in the morning and he will then sleep for the rest of the day. 

When I first had him he wanted to keep going out into the garden at night. Because I wasn't sure if he wanted to toilet I would let him out, but he would run about and have fun, so I restricted him to the terrace and took him out on a lead. He soon learned that he wasn't going to be let out to play in the middle of the night. Sounds like yours has a high hunting and prey drive and there are lots of furries out in the garden at night. I make sure that mine cannot see outside at night and keep the door into the conservatory closed too so he cannot hear so much. The same when he is left at home alone.

Maybe shorten the walking time a little and use the time when she is restless indoors to do some simple training to wear her brain out, then train her to "settle".

I'm not experienced enough to offer training advice, but want to reassure you that things will settle down, but it can take quite a while. 

I find lots of useful advice on Hound Lounge Forum and Lurcher Link Forum - there are many very experienced lurcher owners on there and they can offer really valuable advice. There are also some people on here who will be able to offer some good training advice too.

Please use a harness when you have her on a long line though, cos they can easily damage their necks.

Sorry, I've waffled on, but hopefully you can see that you are dealing with common lurcher problems, that are surmountable!


Good luck


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## SpinningNickel (Aug 10, 2013)

Thanks for this -- I have wondered if we're actually walking her too much. I know some sighthounds can be lamed by over-walking, especially on pavement, and it seems excessive even for a young dog. But because she won't play in the house I haven't figured out how else to stimulate her. She is not good with basic commands so we could do more work on this.

We use a wide, fabric Martingale collar. She's very skinny even for her breed and I worry about her slipping a harness or normal collar. The foster family said harnesses tend to rub her very badly under her front legs as her hair is so fine there, too. We haven't been too worried about it as when we take her to the park on a long lead she doesn't actually run about and play -- mostly stands next to us and then lies down!! But she can really pull on her normal lead when she sees a squirrel in the park and I do worry about her neck then. So a bit off-topic this, but as a lurcher owner do you have any recommendations for a good harness that she won't slip, and won't rub at her? Her fosterers did some training with a canny collar as well (one of the nose ones) and demonstrated this to us on one of our pre-adoption visits to meet her. She HATED it but admittedly behaved very well with it on.


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## totallypets (Dec 30, 2011)

Does she like chews or kongs? You could give her something to keep her occupied in the evening when you want her to settle. I normally fill kongs with over ripe banana and then freeze them, but if she hasn't had one before make it nice and easy for her and not freeze things. If she is fed wet food you could give her all or part of her dinner in one at the point where you want her to relax. You can also soak kibble and stuff that in. Even just a smear of peanut butter around the inside keeps poppy occupied for 5 minutes!


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## ozrex (Aug 30, 2011)

How about a snug t-shirt? DAP?


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## Lurcherlad (Jan 5, 2013)

I walk Jack in a CosyDogs harness. It is fleece lined so doesn't rub and fits fairly snugly and I don't think he could back out of it. It is possible to connect the harness to a collar with a short tape as a backup. (I do know someone whose greyhound backed out of a martingale collar and was killed on the road, so if I have to walk near busy roads I tend to double-up, just in case.) 

I do sometimes use a Sporn harness which works well if they pull. As it tightens round the chest if they pull and he soon realised that he was able to avoid that. I tried everything else to stop him pulling, but as he was already 3 when I got him and nothing seemed to work. But, I don't think he is as secure in this one.

If he is walked in his greyhound collar, I sometimes loop his wide and soft lead across his chest - that does seem to stop him too, but he is almost always walked in a harness and a 5m extending tape lead cos he has NO RECALL 

The reason I say use a harness with a long line is because IF they decide to run, they tend to do it in a straight line and hit top speed VERY QUICKLY - hence an early trip for me to casualty with a separated shoulder! At that speed and with me on the end, he could have really hurt his neck that time. I know you say she tends to stay close to you, but the sight of a furrie can set them off without warning 

Jack loves the filled bones you can buy in supermarkets. They keep him occupied for ages, and can be washed and refilled. Do you leave a radio or TV on when you go out? That can help cos they feel less alone.

Whilst she is settling, avoid being with her 24/7 even when you don't need to go out. Just pop to the shop for paper so she is used to being left. I found Jack regressed on a Monday, cos we had been with him 24/7 over the weekend. (btw - I don't have to do that now cos he is totally settled)

Is there any way you can raise the fencing? We made ours 5 foot high and he can be in the garden loose without worry now.

Sounds like she has probably lived outside in the past, so being inside will be strange for her. Also, she needs to learn that you and your home are her safe place and that you will be back. When they have had an unhappy past, it will take a while for them to trust. 

You are very lucky that she is not troubled by bangs, fireworks, people, dogs etc.

With the whining, Jack will occasionally - usually when I stop for coffee on a walk cos he wants to keep going! There are many different ways of dealing with this, but I tend to say a sharp ah or shush and then when he relaxes reward. Some say ignore the bad behaviour, but if she is doing it incessantly then that is difficult to do. The ah or shush breaks the whine and she can then learn what it is you want her to do. I would avoid any Cesar Milan techniques for any dog, but especially hounds as they really don't respond well to harsh treatment IMO.

Keep going - it will get better and when she is settled and relaxed you will feel very chuffed with yourself for taking her on and giving her the life she deserves


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## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

SpinningNickel said:


> Hi everyone. I'm getting a bit desperate, so I'm really hoping everyone can help! Sorry if this is a mega-long post, but I want to give as much information as possible:
> 
> *My Dog*
> 
> ...





> *What We've Tried*
> 
> Firstly, she has been seen by a vet recently and there is no suggestion that she is ill or in pain, and the fact that this is so specific makes me fairly confident of this.
> 
> ...


Although its not a breed Ive owned, from what I have read and speaking to owners it seems that sighthounds mostly seem to be sprinters fast speeds over shorter distances, rather then steadier/consistent speeds over long distances? if this is true
Im wondering if the type of exercise for her is wrong, long distances which is the sort of thing mine need as they are not sprinters but more stamina/endurance based. Im just wondering if this type of exercise if pumping her up too much so she isn't able to wind down and relax. As from what you have said the fosterer didn't get the problem, have you discussed what exercise pattern she was getting there, and maybe try that.



> Initially, we tried to ignore. When we do this, however, she escalates the behaviour. She will jump onto the sofa, pull things off the windowsill, and climb into the window. She will start to howl or scratch the door, or pace up and down stairs as well as the ground floor. She will hurtle herself down the stairs toward the door, which is dangerous! She will try to open the door, and chew my keys if they've been left in the door, as she's cottoned on very quickly that they keep it closed.
> 
> We briefly tried to distract her with toys or treats, to understand if this was just attention-seeking. This does not work at all -- she will not respond or interact with us, and won't even take her favourite treats when she's anxious.


If a dog is too hyper, be it anxiety, stress or just over excitement, then they can get to a point where they cant stop as they escalate and get further up the stress or hyper scale the worse they are. What sort or treats did you use, sometimes that can make a difference, also as said if she really had got too far into the hyper behaviour before you tried it wont work anyway. You need to really do something at first signs, or preferably give them something else to do before the behaviour starts, so instead of winding up they start to wind down.



> We equally-briefly tried to correct -- dog-whisperer-style sharp sounds and a tap in the ribs. She did respond to this somewhat, although she would resume whining quickly. However, when it became apparent that there was genuine anxiety and not just attention-seeking driving the behaviour, I stopped this for fear of making it worse.
> 
> We have tried positive reinforcement; so, for example, she will pace and whine but the moment she sits down or is quiet for a minute, we give her a lot of attention and praise, and try to give her treats, although as mentioned above, she often won't take them which makes this difficult. So far, this has not had any consistent effect.


 It may be because you are mistiming, if you do it the second she sits down or quickly after she is quiet or too soon and then give lots of attention and praise and she hasn't completely calmed down, then you could be starting the hyping up again, if part of it is for attention, and she hasn't completely wound down and calmed you could be rewarding the behaviour while aroused still.



> Currently, her beloved dog bed is in the kitchen. When she whines at the door, I take her by the collar, avoiding eye contact, take her into the kitchen to her bed, and make her lie down. (I pushed her down the first couple of times, but she now lies straight down when I take her, so she's got the measure of this exercise.) I will stand there for a moment, looking away from her, and then walk away. She will normally get straight up and resume her behaviour, but I simply continue taking her back, over and over, each time she starts whining. Again, I try to treat her once she has stayed there for a short time, but she won't always take it as she'll be in a sulk. In order for this to have much effect, I sometimes have to sit on the floor next to her (ignoring her) -- she then knows she cannot get up and will eventually settle down, go into a calmer state, and when she finally gets up her anxiety has calmed. Having said that, this does require me to sit next to her on the floor for 10-15 minutes, which is not ideal.


Probably not a good idea to push her down first off as it can add to anxiety. I wouldn't stand there for a moment either, just out no interaction or speaking to her, and immediately leave. The other mistake your making too I think, is that when she lays down and immediately gets up again if Ive understood correctly as soon as she whines your going back again and putting her on the bed? Which means your still going back, and sounds like you are inadvertently rewarding the behaviour, even though to you its just putting her back on her bed as far as shes concerned you come back again and the on off the bed is a way to get you back and your attention. Your still also sitting with her, so likely shes worked out if you do the up down thing long enough and she still gets up, then eventually your going to sit there, which although you may be ignoring her your still there. 


> We've also tried herbal kalms. Sometimes we see a result and sometimes we don't, so I'm not convinced it's the tablets which are helping, rather than something else we've done that day. Also, I only want this to be a temporary measure while we sort out... whatever it is.


With Natural calmatives they can be useful, especially with a dog with any anxiety or ones that cant wind down and settle. They are not effective just on their own though, you do need to re-train and modify and teach alternative behaviours as well. The Natural calmatives though can not only calm them but also usually makes them more receptive to this retraining. Some work better on some dogs then others. There is lots of others, Adaptil dog appeasing pheromone diffusers which work like a plug in ait freshener you keep going works well on a lot of dogs, another good one that seems to have a lot of effect on dogs, is Zylkene which is based on casein a protein found in milk, there is also scull cap and valerian which is herbal, and even bach flower remedies, Dorwest do skullcap and valerian, Zylkene and adaptil you can buy at on line vet pharmacies and Dr petals do flower remedies that are animal specific and do different ones for different behaviour problems.



> *When She Stops*
> 
> She stops at dinner time. She's fairly well-behaved about us eating. We get her sat there with the sad puppy-eyes (I never give her anything unless and until we've finished eating, although my partner sometimes does... I tell him off, but he needs more training than her, the softie!) but e}eshe doesn't snatch or whine or otherwise beg. However, her anxious behaviour just stops in its tracks, so it's clear that the stimulus of us eating something potentially-delicious is more important to her.
> 
> She will also stop if we've had a long walk on a warm day, so she is clearly just absolutely exhausted. However, when the weather is mild she will go almost endlessly and still whine as soon as we're home.


There in probably lies your salvation and a method to keep her both self amused and give her some mental and physical stimulation in other ways. It will also give her something that will ultimately make her finally relax when she is finished with it too. 
You can give her meals if on wet in a Kong classic, you can also fill the Kong classic with all manner of things and even freeze them to make them last longer.
If she is on dry, then you can get something called a Kong Wobbler. There is also a Busy Buddy twist and treat that is initially usually easier to get the stuff out of those you can fill with kibble, wet food or different things. Sometimes they are a good started as they are easier, and then move to the ore difficult types.
Recipes - KONG

Wobbler - KONG

Busy Buddy Twist-n-Treat - YouTube

A supply of chews treats and even raw bones can help too, chewing is a destresser.



> *So!*
> 
> I am sorry for the length of the post, but hopefully all this information makes sense to someone who can help. My partner has never, ever had dogs. I grew up with dogs, but they were largely outside farm dogs, and I haven't a dog in years, so we are both quite inexperienced. I've done a lot of reading and research and am willing to do the work, but I feel like this is a combination of her history, anxiety, and attention-seeking so I don't know how to approach it. The only information I can find consistently about whining is related to separation anxiety, and I really don't think that's the problem here.
> 
> ...


Usually the best thing is to start giving them periods of wind down and rest alone as part of the routine when you are in. This usually weans them off in a way they can cope. If they have access or follow you around all the time you are there then it can add to over dependence and also makes it too stark a contrast when they are left. Its something you can do when they have had exercise, to try and teach them to self amuse and finally wind down too. Also doing it when you know she is going to get hyped and before she really starts and gets into the behaviour too.

You just need to take them to where they are left, preferably where they will be left when you go out, make no fuss no worrying about must lie down, just take her there, give her something to occupy her and leave immediately no good byes lay downs nothing. At first you need to do it for short periods, and return before they get stressed or vocal, even if you are talking minute. Just let her out and walk away and continue to ignore her, only when you know she isn't going to start up again, then call her to you and give her calm praise and attention. You then build up the time gradually as they cope a bit at a time, then finally use the same routine when you do go out.

Old tricks that can settle them too are, using a dog control gate to confine them to an area, this often works better then having a solid closed door shut on them which can be too isolating and make them freak more.

Leaving an old tshirt or jumper you have worn in their bed as having your smell still can re-assure them. leaving a radio turned down low on a talking station can help as again the sound of voices can be more comforting then silence. Pups and even some dogs also like a large soft toy in their bed too to cuddle up too, if she wont ingest it then that may be worth a go too.

AS she is a foodie it seems, then again use that to your vantage, high value treats are usually small pieces of cheese, hotdogs, chicken, sausages anything liver based. I would start which is something you don't seem to mention, doing training sessions with her inbetween, teaching her some basic commands using the treats as incentive and reward to do them and when she gets them right.
Training sessions are a good way to give mental stimulation, it also helps with bonding and focus. Obviously you need to do this before she gets hyper, but making her focus and do other things, should help too with the anxiety, when shes focusing and doing as asked she wont be pacing and whinging. After a session then you can also give her a wind down and self amusement period alone.


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## SpinningNickel (Aug 10, 2013)

> Is there any way you can raise the fencing?


We plan to, but probably not til spring. She isn't really a jumper (she steps up onto the sofa but won't even hop up or down, which is fun to watch -- lucky she has long legs!) but just to be sure we let her out there with the recall lead tied up. It's long enough that she gets full run of my small garden, but after a couple of minutes she just shifts her whining to the garden gate.



> Although its not a breed Ive owned, from what I have read and speaking to owners it seems that sighthounds mostly seem to be sprinters fast speeds over shorter distances, rather then steadier/consistent speeds over long distances?


Very true of most sighthounds. From my understanding, salukis are slightly different. They're bred to run down gazelles and so on in the desert, so they can sustain 30mph over 2-3 miles. We think Jess is probably crossed with whippet, so likely to fall somewhere in-between with regard to her distance and pacing. I try to vary her by giving her the shorter, faster bike runs as well, and we can try more of that instead.



> using a dog control gate to confine them to an area


This is exactly what we do!



> Does she like chews or kongs?


As for chews and Kongs, she has several, which are kept put away to keep her becoming used to them, and taken out from time to time. We've tried peanut butter, dog treats, banana, and cheese in the Kong, and she will play with it sometimes, but... Well. When she's anxious it gets completely ignored, and when she's left alone, it does, too. We can put her favourite things in the universe in there, but she won't touch it unless she's already happy.



> if Ive understood correctly as soon as she whines your going back again and putting her on the bed? Which means your still going back, and sounds like you are inadvertently rewarding the behaviour, even though to you its just putting her back on her bed as far as shes concerned you come back again


The layout of my house is such that when she comes off the bed, she walks out of the kitchen and right past the sofa to the door, so she walks past us and we're only a few feet away. Even if I didn't take her back to the bed, I would at that point be sat right there by her. On a morning when I go upstairs for work, she will pace up and down upstairs, downstairs, up and down the stairs, etc. and I just ignore her because I'm busy, or shush her if it gets really out of control. But she will follow me to one extent or another, so I gain nothing by going further away than the front room. I say this to clarify that I'm not going 'back' to her in that sense -- she's just there. It's a teensy house!

I can shut the gate and leave her in the kitchen in time out, and I do if the behaviour gets extreme, but because that's where she is shut during the day I do not want her to associate the gate too much with punishment. She doesn't like to be shut in in any case, probably because of her background before she was rescued. I'm very aware of not giving her too much attention before I leave, as well. I shut her in and then as I leave, she gets no eye contact or fussing.



> What sort or treats did you use


Gravy bones are one of her favourite, so we try those. Sometimes cheese. But WHEN do I give her these? She whines, and she won't stop whining, and if she stops whining for a short period I run the risk of hyping her back up as you said, or she'll go sulky on me and not take it. I obviously can't give it to her WHILE she's whining.

You can see why I'm at my wits' end!!

Also today, as an example, we've just walked 4.5 miles to a local pet shop and back. She whined something fierce for a few minutes when we came home, then took herself upstairs to sleep on my bed. I'm on the ground floor now. So she doesn't need to be with me ALL the time, although she will follow us when she's already anxious. Today I've ignored her and she's buggered off, but other times it just escalates, even when we've had an equally long walk. I can't pinpoint what sets her off. 

We've also JUST (this week) started some clicker training to try and occupy her mind when she's in the house. We're still in the 'teach that click = treat' phase by trying to get her to nose an upside-down container. So far, no good. We use cheese or cheesy training treats, so very high-value for her. She cottons on quickly if we work outside, but inside, she just whines and tries to pace (tries, because I keep her on a short lead for training sessions at this stage). I'm hoping this will eventually help, but I am open to any and all suggestions to help in the meantime.

We must be doing SOMETHING wrong -- but I'm not sure how to put it right.


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## WeedySeaDragon (Oct 7, 2012)

It's very early days for her with you, it may be that she's still settling. As you say Salukis are quite highly strung and sensitive so it may take her a while to relax and calm down.

Does she ever get the chance to run properly off lead? We have whippets and they are not satisfied exercise-wise unless they can really run, it's what they've been bred for and the joy they take in it is almost immeasurable. It might be worth you putting some feelers out to try and find a secure area where you would be able to let her really stretch her legs. Some dog trainers have their own secure fields that they will allow people to hire, or some riding schools hire out their indoor arenas.

As for harnesses, it might be worth you looking at the Ruffwear Webmaster. Fitted properly it's pretty much impossible to slip, I love them and would always recommend them to sighthound owners. Even with a harness I'd be very careful using a long line. Sighthounds can get up to top speed in just a few strides and hitting the extent of a long line at 30+mph is never going to be good for them.

We've used both Adaptil and Zylkene with our very stressy collie cross and had good results with both. The Zylkene especially was invaluable for a while and really helped her calm down a bit during some upheaval at home.


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## Lurcherlad (Jan 5, 2013)

Agree that Salukis can take more exercise than the other sighthounds as I believe do Whippets, so yours would happily take more than your average greyhound. But, strike a balance cos the fitter they are the more they want/need 

QUOTE Gravy bones are one of her favourite, so we try those. Sometimes cheese. But WHEN do I give her these? She whines, and she won't stop whining, and if she stops whining for a short period I run the risk of hyping her back up as you said, or she'll go sulky on me and not take it. I obviously can't give it to her WHILE she's whining UNQUOTE

Difficult one. If she is whining and won't stop - what about if you went into another room and called her (as if practising recall and ignoring the whine) so that you can treat her for that recall as such? 

When she does stop whining, just give her a calm stroke and say a phrase - maybe "good settle". Nothing that will hype her up, but just enough so she knows that quite and calm gets a stroke?

And - more importantly - stop beating yourself up! You are doing your best and it WILL get better


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## Burrowzig (Feb 18, 2009)

If she's whining as if she wants to go out, it could be worth ruling out a urinary infection that might be making her feel she needs to pee, even if she has just peed on a walk.


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