# Fishkeeping for beginners, simplified...



## Guest (Oct 16, 2009)

Going by how many people on here are interested in keeping fish I thought it was about time that I created some form of 'beginner's guide'...

When a lot of people think about fishkeeping they picture two orange fish swimming around a small, glass bowl. However things have modernized a little and 99.9% of fishkeepers who have done their research now know that bowls are a complete no-no for starting out. There's also a considerable amount of science behind the hobby, for this guide however I won't garble on with jargon. 

Coldwater or tropical?

Good question. For many years goldfish have been the standard 'beginners' fish, hardy, inexpensive and generally easy to keep. However with the improvement of fishkeeping equipment such as heaters more and more people are moving into the much larger world of tropical fishkeeping.

The main advantages of tropical fish include the sheer choice available, and believe it or not many species are actually hardier than goldfish. Many people fail to realize that goldfish (especially the common varieties) can grow fairly large and do require a considerable amount of space, however with space comes added cost, which isn't something a lot of newcomers are willing to accommodate for. However if you can provide the equipment necessary to keep these fish then the choice is yours.

A typical tropical aquarium, complete with lighting, filtration and heat.










Choosing equipment... 


Tank size - When choosing a tank, my advice is to buy the largest you can afford and have room for. Larger tanks may be more expensive however they are easier to care for as the bigger volume of water will make the tank more stable.

If you do buy a large tank make sure that you have a strong piece of furniture to put it on. One litre of freshwater weighs 1kg and a 200 litre tank will weigh over 200kg by the time you have added on the weight of the glass and any decor that you choose to put into the tank. Fortunately there is a good range of aquarium cabinets on the market and if you can't find a size you want, you can have one custom-made by an aquarium manufacturer.

You can either purchase components separately or buy a complete package from manufacturers such as Juwel and Fluval. These come with all of the necessary equipment such as a filter, heating and lighting.

Filtration - Without a doubt the most essential piece of equipment for fishkeeping is a filter. Like all animals, fish produce some form of waste and this waste must be removed with a filter before it can pollute the water and consequently, kill the fish.

There are quite a few different types of filtration system on the aquarium market, the final choice will depend on certain things such as tank stocking and the size of the aquarium.

Internal filters - Ideal for small or lightly stocked aquariums, internal filters represent an inexpensive form of filtration and are very easy to operate. However some models do look rather unsightly in aquarium (unless you hide the unit with decor) and due to their limited media capacity, they aren't ideal if you intend to keep large or messy fish.

External filters - My number one choice, external filters are perfect for aquariums over 130 litres or if you want to keep large fish. Aside from advantages such as a larger media capacity most of the components are kept outside the aquarium, reducing the amount of unsightly equipment inside the aquarium. They are also easier to clean than internals and disturbance to the fish can be minimalized during maintenance.

Undergravel filters - Once the standard form of filtration during the 1980's and early 1990's, undergravels are now considered to be out-of-date and they don't really have any significant advantages over the above options when it comes to cleaning and media capacity. Their tendency to clog means that they can't be used with large or messy species or with sand substrates.

Air-powered sponge and box filters - These tend to be used for breeding purposes, since their gentle flow is low enough to prevent delicate fry from being sucked up. Their small sizes renders them unsuitable for large aquariums. Box filters have the advantage of being able to hold different types of filter media and are also ideal for quarantine tanks.

What is filtration media? If you open up a filter you will find an array of different materials such as sponges, floss or hard, ceramic rings and balls. This is what is known as the filtration media. A filtration system usually consists of three stages: biological, mechanical and chemical.

Biological filter media includes the sponges and/or ceramic rings and balls. These have a very high surface area and are quite porous to allow water to pass through easily. The purpose of the high surface area is to increase the amount of space available for colonization by filter bacteria, these break down waste produced by the fish into harmful substances in what is known as the nitrogen cycle. You will find more information on the nitrogen cycle below.

Mechanical filter media doesn't really serve any purpose other than to remove fine and coarse particles from the water column. This type of media often comes in the form of floss pads.

Chemical filter media is designed to absorb dissolved chemicals from the water. Common forms include what is known as 'Activated carbon', amongst other 'absorbing resins' which remove certain waste substances from the aquarium water. Activated carbon is particularly useful for removing medications after treatment.

Lighting - While natural daylight can be used, artificial aquarium lighting will aid with viewing your fish. It will also be needed for growing the majority of live plants. Flourescent tubes are the most popular form of lighting for aquariums, they have a high light output and generate very little head in comparison to incandescent bulbs. More and more manufacturers are also looking towards LED's (light-emitting diodes).

Fluorescent tubes come in two main types, T8 and T5. The number after the 'T' relates to the diameter of the tube. Tubes of this type are measured in eighths of an inch. A T8 tube for example has a diameter of 8/8" or one inch, whereas a T5 tube has a diameter of 5/8". T5 tubes have a higher output than T8 tubes for a similar length however they do consume more electricity.

T5 tubes are also available in a 'compact' form, compact tubes are simply standard tubes bent back over on themselves, so that a higher output can be packed into a smaller-sized tube.

The colour temperature or 'Kelvin' rating of the tube also plays some importance, especially for plant growth. Natural daylight has a Kelvin rating of between 4000 and 7500 degrees K, this produces a fairly warm-yellow light. As you go further up the Kelvin scale the light produced is more of a whitish-blue. Most manufacturers print the Kelvin rating of the tube on the packaging.

To run fluorescent tubes you will need a starter of a suitable size and to get the best out of the tube, a reflector. However if you buy an complete, 'ready-to-run' package then all of the lighting equipment needed will be included.

Heaters - Unless you have a very warm house or apartment and intend to keep tropical fish, then chances are that you will need a heater. Some tropical fish can tolerate cooler conditions and goldfish won't need a heater, however for the majority of species a heater is a requirement. This should be set to between 24 and 30 degrees centigrade.

Other equipment:


Test kit - There are two main types of test kit, liquid and strip. Liquid test kits are the more accurate of the two however strip test kits score when it comes to convenience. You will need test kits for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, these can be purchased separately or as a complete kit from aquatic stores. Price: £15-30 for liquid test kits and £8-15 for strip test kits.

Dechlorinator - Tapwater is safe for humans, however it contains chlorine, heavy metals and possibly chloramine. All of these substances are highly toxic to fish and must be removed using a dechlorinator before the water is added to the aquarium. Dechlorinators are easy to use and can be purchased from most aquatic and pet stores. Price: £4-15 depending on the bottle size and brand.

Nets - Two nets are better than one, bending the handles into right-angles will make it easier to reach into corners. Price: £1-5

Buckets - You will need two of these, one for clean water and the other for waste. Choose buckets made from a good quality, food-grade plastic. Fermenting bins for making wine are ideal. Price £10-15

Gravel siphon - This is for removing water and waste from the aquarium during water changes. Price: £5-10 depending on the size.

Food - Just like humans, fish require a balanced and varied diet. A good-quality flake or pellet food can form most of the diet and this can be supplemented with frozen foods which can be obtained from good aquatic stores. Also available are colour-enhancing foods and for bottom-dwelling fish, sinking pellets and wafers are available. Price: This will depend on the type and brand of food that you buy.

Algae scraper - For removing algae from the aquarium glass. Price: £3-8

Other useful accessories - An airpump for mixing water for water changes would be useful, as would a heater to bring it up to the correct temperature. For growing live plants a good quality liquid-fertilizer will aid growth.

If money can stretch a quarantine tank is highly recommended, for most fish this needn't be anything large or fancy. A simple glass or plastic tank with a filter and heater (for tropical fish) is all that's needed. No lighting is necessary and dark conditions will reduce the amount of stress placed on the fish, helping them to feel more at ease.

Decor and plants...

Substrates - Choosing a substrate is down to personal taste, you could go with sand or plain gravel or for one of the several fluorescent substrates on the market. Sand and plain gravel look very natural and the former is very good for plants as it won't inhibit root penetration. Fluorescent substrates may look nice however they can wash out the colours of the fish. Believe it or not a darker tank with natural decor will enhance the coloration of the fish.

If you want to grow live plants then using a nutrient-rich substrate is a good idea. This is placed beneath the main substrate (i.e sand or gravel). Substrates of this type contain a well-balanced amount of nutrients and minerals such as nitrate, phosphate, iron and magnesium. Popular brands include the substrates from Tropica, Seachem, Caribsea and ADA (Aqua-design amano).

Hard decor - Rocks and other solid items such as Sumatran driftwood and bogwood can be arranged in all sorts of combinations to create a very natural and striking effect in an aquarium. Many species of fish are natural rock-dwellers and quite a few others require wood in their diets. Rocks can be used to anchor plants around their bases and also to prevent large fish from digging them up.

Suitable rocks include granite, slate, onyx, obsidian, jade, flint, amethyst and lava rock. However some rocks should be avoided, these include: sandstone, marble (very dangerous when used in an aquarium!), gypsum (this is made of calcium sulphate so is not suitable for aquariums), geodes,

There are quite a few rocks that are suitable but will alter the pH level of the aquarium, and so are really only suitable for specific groups of fish. Rocks that will raise the pH contain calcium and these include limestone, aragonite and tufa rock (actually a very soft form of limestone).

The acid test should be carried out on rocks to see if they contain calcium. A few drops of a weak acid (i.e vinegar) should be added. If the rock fizzes then it will alter the pH of the water.

Before adding any form of decor to an aquarium be sure to rinse it thoroughly and if necessary leave it to soak for a few days. Bogwood releases certain tannins which will stain the water and while these aren't harmful, they may be unsightly to some. To remove the worst of the tannins leave the wood to soak in freshly boiled water for a few weeks, or alternatively add it to the main aquarium and carry out plenty of water changes.

Plants - There is a big range of live and plastic plants on the market nowadays, what you choose is upto you although live plants will always look more natural and do hold some benefits. So long as their basic requirements are met then live plants are quite undemanding.

All live plants require light, nutrients and a source of carbon dioxide. The last one isn't so important for hardier species however it will enhance growth. You can purchase carbon in a liquid form from aquatic stores, one of the best additives is Easylife Easycarbo.

Some of the more undemanding plant species has been listed below:


Cryptocorynes sp. - foreground
Echindorus sp. - fore-mid ground
Vallisneria sp. - background
Hygrophila sp. - mid-background
Java fern (Microsorum pteropus) - fore-mid ground
Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana) - foreground
Cabomba sp. - mid-background
Egeria densa - mid-background (ideal for coldwater tanks)
Apart from a small amount of maintenance (i.e pruning) plant care is very straightforward. Live plants will remove nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate, which are primary food sources for nuisance algae.

Setting the tank up...

Before you buy a tank, it's important to have a think as to where you want to put it. Try to site the aquarium where it won't be exposed to loud noises, direct sunlight (which will fuel algae), radiators or other heat sources. If possible a north-facing room is the ideal spot for an aquarium, as they tend to be cooler during the summer.

Always follow the instructions when setting up the tank, and never handle equipment or electric sockets with wet hands. Leave the filter and heater turned off until water is added, unsubmerged heaters will crack if left turned on.

Some useful tools for starting the aquarium include a spirit level and a set of screwdrivers. The tank and cabinet should be placed on a level surface and if you buy a very large tank (over 500 litres) then do consult a surveyor before installing it, as the floor may need to be re-enforced.

Once you have filled the aquarium simply turn the equipment on and add a dechlorinator. Plants can be added immediately, however you will have to wait before adding the fish.

Water quality and the 'cycling' process...

Water isn't just pure H2O, it's a complex soup of minerals and trace elements and depending on where it comes from, will have it's own chemical makeup. Basic understanding of water quality will go a long way to ensure that your fish remain healthy.

One of the major things to consider if the pH level of the water. The pH is the measure of the acidity or alkalinity of water, and when it is put on a scale it runs from 0 to 14, with 0 being pure acid, 14 being very alkaline and 7 being neutral. Depending on where they come from freshwater fish will thrive in a pH ranging from 5.5 to 8.5, with 6.5 to 7.4 being fine for most tropicals.

All fish produce waste, either in the form of an organic substance called ammonia (NH4) which is excreted from the gills from solid waste which is egested from the anal region. Ammonia is highly toxic to fish even in small concentrations. Another harmful waste substance goes by the name of Nitrite (NO2), this is produced when the ammonia is broken down by bacteria which colonize the filter in what is known as the nitrogen cycle.

The bacteria that I mentioned above break down this ammonia into less harmful waste substances, however in a new tank these bacteria are not present and you must first add something to the aquarium to establish a bacterial 'colony'. Bottled ammonia or fish food will supply ammonia and over a period of several weeks this ammonia will be broken down into nitrite, nitrate and finally phosphate and nitrogen gas. The last three substances are only harmful in large concentrations.

Once the filter has broken down all of this ammonia it will be 'cycled' and you can now proceed to add fish. To monitor the cycling process a test kit (refer to the 'choosing equipment' section above) will be needed. Within the first week or two the ammonia level will spike, shortly followed by nitrite. After around 2-3 weeks the ammonia and nitrite will begin to drop back to 0, resulting in the production of nitrate. Take a close look at the diagrams below.



















All waste substances are measured in either ppm (parts per million) or mg/l. (milligrams per litre), however the values for each are more or less the same (i.e 2 ppm is the chemical equivalent of 2 mg/l.)

When you do start to add fish, remember to do it slowly, adding no more than four fish every two weeks. Also always do your research into the requirements of each species, and if you can't house it, don't buy it!


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## Guest (Oct 16, 2009)

Regular maintenance...

Fishkeeping is a fairly low-maintenance hobby, however just like all pets, regular maintenance is vital to ensure the health of animals in your care. Try to spend a few minutes each day to check the tank over.

Daily maintenance:


Check the fish, remove any dead ones and quarantine any diseased fish as necessary.

Check the temperature, filter and heater.

Feed the fish, only feed as much as the fish can consume within a few minutes and remove any food that goes uneaten.

Scrape the glass.

Weekly:


Carry out a partial, 15-25% water change, smaller yet more frequent water changes are much better than one larger water change every month or so.

Test the water for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.

Prune the plants (use a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors).

Monthly:


Clean the filter. All you have to with this is remove the biological media (i.e sponges) and give it a quick rinse or squeeze in some old aquarium water. Never wash the media in tapwater as the chemicals will kill the bacteria, resulting in poor water quality and consequently, dead fish. Also flush out the impeller shaft and any fixings (i.e outlet or inlet pipes to external filters).
Every six moths:


Replace any test kits (especially those for nitrate which do have a relatively short shelf-life).

Perform a 30% water change and strip down the filter, replace any damaged parts as necessary.

Annually:


Replace part of the biological filter media. Simply cut the sponges into thirds, or, if you are using ceramic rings or balls, remove one third of these. Then replace the media. Feed sparingly for the first week or so and monitor the water quality.
What about when I go away?

If you are going away for a few days or a week, the fish will be perfectly fine without any attention and fish can last for quite a while without food. All you have to do is perform a partial water change and test the water.

If you intend to be away for a longer period then try to ask a friend or relative to check the tank every few days in your absence, and remember to leave a phone number. What ever you do, do not leave any chemicals or food in plain sight. I've heard of countless horror stories where relatives have simply dumped in food unknowingly, only for the owner of the tank to come home to an aquarium smelling of rotting food and dead fish.

Final words...

Remember, fishkeeping is a learning hobby! Everyone makes a few mistakes and so long as you do your research, the effects of those mistakes should be minimal. Ask plenty of questions, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask!

Good sources of information include forums, magazines and certain books. However try to get information from reputable sources and always take any advice you receive with a pinch of salt.

Happy fishkeeping! 

Useful links...

Practical Fishkeeping magazine | the UK's biggest aquarium website
EHEIM GmbH & Co. KG
Tropica
Rolf C. Hagen Inc.
JUWEL Aquarium Homepage
http://www.adana.com.sg/productsPage/ada_fishfood.html
Tetra UK
Welcome to API - API

All photos used with permission from their respective owners. Copyright © Pleccy, 2009-2010.


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## Animal Mother (Nov 1, 2009)

Good write up except for one thing, and it's a BIG one.

Cycling of the setup should be done fishlessly. Fishless cycling is the way to prepare your tank for fish without putting fish under any stresses or strains.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2009)

Animal Mother said:


> Cycling of the setup should be done fishlessly. Fishless cycling is the way to prepare your tank for fish without putting fish under any stresses or strains.


I've already suggested using bottled ammonia or fish food to kickstart the cycling process, both are used for fishless cycling.


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## Animal Mother (Nov 1, 2009)

Pleccy said:


> I've already suggested using bottled ammonia or fish food to kickstart the cycling process, both are used for fishless cycling.


Fair play. 

Was just reinforcing that fishless cycling is the best way to go about it. :thumbup1:


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