# An introduction to planted aquariums.



## Guest (Feb 16, 2009)

Planted aquaria are perhaps the most stunning displays in freshwater fishkeeping. Plants also provide a natural habitat for many species of fish and so long as the fish are not known to eat or uproot plants (for example certain large cichlids such as Uaru and Geophagus species) they provide hiding places, helping to make the fish feel more at ease. In this basic introduction to live plants I will explain the basics of equipment and I will also list some undemanding plants.

Nutrition

Nutrients- Aquatic plants need a source of nitrogen and phosphorous for sufficient growth and to help the plants root in the substrate. They also need iron for the development of the leaves. You can either purchase nutrients in the dry powder form (including Potassium nitrate and Potassium phosphate) which are mixed with a certain amount of reverse osmosis water and drip fed over the course of the week, at the end of the week a large, 50% water change is carried out, this method is called the estimative index or EI method. No testing of the water is required once the tank is established. This methodology has become extremely popular and has been demonstrated very successfully by top aquascapers and planted tank experts George Farmer and Tom Barr.

If you don't want the hassle of making your own nutrients there are several brands of plant food on the market which contain everything the plants need. These products are simply added according to the instructions on the bottle and the dosage can be adjusted to suit plant growth. Some good brands include the Tropica aquacare range, Seachem flourish and Tetra floramin.

Despite what some people may tell you nitrate and phosphate do not cause algae in a well planted and established aquarium, so long as you do not overdose a nitrate level of around 5-10ppm and a phosphate level of around 2-3ppm is perfect for plant growth.

Substrates- A substrate consisting of just gravel is more or less useless for plants, unless the plants you intend to keep do not rely on the substrate to obtain nutrients. The best substrate for a planted tank should consist of a thin layer of special aquatic plant substrate topped with a deepish layer (approximately 5cm/2") of fine gravel or sand. If you cannot obtain aquatic plant compost you could use standard garden compost providing it is lime-free (such as John Innes no.1 or no. 3). Some good substrates include the Tropica aquacare substrates, Seachem flourite, Caribsea eco-complete and the substrate from Tetra.

Also avoid using a substrate that is too coarse, very coarse gravel will inhibit the penetration of roots into the substrate.

Equipment

CO2- Carbon dioxide (CO2) is vital for photosynsthesis, water naturally contains a very small amount of CO2 however this escpaes into the air when the water leaves the tap. The level of CO2 in the water needs to supplemented, especially if you have high levels of light, under high levels of light the plants will photosynsthesize at a faster rate, effectively stripping the water of any dissolved CO2. The main types of CO2 injection are listed below, all have their advantages and disadvantages.

Pressurized CO2- This the most effective and cheapest way of injecting CO2, especially in large tanks. However units can be quite expensive and the cylinders can be dangerous as the gas inside them is pressurized. If the cylinder springs a leak it will act like a rocket engine, this necessitates the need to fasten the cylinder to a wall or on the inside of the aquarium canbinet.

Yeast-based CO2- This is a very cheap form of CO2 injection however it is best used on small tanks. These units use a simple mixture of sugar, yeast and water which ferments to produce CO2. Units either come ready made or you can make your own using simple household components.

Liquid CO2- This is a fairly new concept, it is added to the water in the same way as liquid plant nutrients and cosists of pure liquid carbon to satisfy the CO2 demands of the plants. There are only a couple of products on the market however and for a large tank it would be quite expensive. I've been using Easy life easy carbo for over a year in my planted tank with no problems with nuisance algae.

Lighting- Light is the most important aspect to consider when setting up a planted aquarium. There are several options available which I have listed below.

T8- Fluororescent tubes are measured in eighths of an inch, the eight in the T8 means that the tubes have a diameter of eight eighths of an inch or one inch. The level of light these tubes produce is quite low and you may need several tubes with reflectors to provide the levels of light required by demanding species.

T5- T5 tubes are much narrower than T8 tubes and are five eighths of an inch in diameter. They provide a higher level of light in comparison with a T8 tube of a similar size so you will need a lower number of tubes to provide a sufficient level of light. However they are more expensive to buy and run than T8 tubes.

T5 power compact- These are much brighter than T5 and T8 tubes, they are basically a T5 tubes bent back on themselves. A T5 power compact tube provides a high level of light for a relatively short tube, this makes them the perfect lighting choice for smaller tanks. The main problems with these tubes are that they are quite susceptible to light strike, in which the light from the tube bounces back on itself. The other problem is find a reflector for these tubes, despite the increasing demand from hobbyists there are no specially made reflectors for power compact tubes, so you will either have to modify a T8 reflector or build your own from scratch.

Metal halide- Out of all the four options, this provides the highest level of light. However metal halide units are expensive to buy and run, they also generate a lot of heat which may require cooling during the summer months.

Bulb choice is also important, the colour temperature or spectrum of the bulb is vital. A blue tube has a fairly high spectrum which is useless for plant growth. The tubes that you use should represent natural daylight, this has a spectrum between 5000 and 8000 degrees kelvin. Blue light can also cause algal issues in aquariums so they are best avoided. In terms of the amount of light this depends on how demanding the plants are, however as a general rule of thumb somewhere around 2-3 watts of lighting per gallon is sufficient.

Heating cables- These are the subject of much debate, some people swear by them whereas other say they aren't needed for successful plant growth and can burn the roots of the plants. However you have to decide wether you use one or not, most planted aquariums will be fine without one.

Planting

When preparing plants for planting it is important to keep them moist, regular misting with a simple misting bottle will prevent the plants from drying out. Most plants will come in a plastic pot filled with a moss-like material known as rockwool, this should be removed and disposed of. Whole plants should be seperated into seperate plantlets, while it is fine to simply insert the whole plant into the substrate, you won't get the best out of it. To seperate the plantlets simply pull them apart with your fingers. Trimming back the roots with a sharp pair of scissors will also encourage new growth.

When planting it is best to use the right tools for the job, most good aquatic plant specialists will sell special tools for aquascaping. These tools should consist of a long pair of tweezers, a mini rake for the substrate and a sharp pair of scissors. Simply make a hole in the substrate with your finger and, using the tweezers, carefully insert the plantlet into the susbtrate. After this simply cover the base of plant with the substrate.


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## Guest (Feb 16, 2009)

Some undemanding plants

Java moss
Height: 3-4cm
Width: 5-20cm
Ease of care: Easy
Notes: An undemanding plant that is perfect for the fore and mid ground areas of the aquarium. This plant should be fixed to hard decor such as rocks or bogwood.










Java fern
Height: 10-30cm
Width: 10-40cm
Ease of care: Easy
Notes: Another undemanding plant that is ideally suited to the mid-ground areas. Like Java moss this plant should be fixed to hard decor, if you bury the rhizome (the base of the plant) in the substrate it will rot. Quite a tough species.










Hygrophila polysperma
Height: 30-60cm
Width: 20-30cm
Ease of care: Easy
Notes: A very fast growing plant which is ideal for the background areas. Not really ideal for small tanks due to its habit of taking over and effectively choking the tank.










Vallisneria sp.
Height: 50-100cm
Width: 10cm
Ease of care: Easy (depends on species)
Notes: An excellent background plant and also quite easy to keep. Although it covers a relatively small area when first planted it will soon send out runners from the base of the plant.










Cryptocoryne wendtii
Height: 10-15cm
Width: 15-20cm
Ease of care: Easy-moderate
Notes: An undemanding foreground plant that does best under good lighting and in a nutrient-rich substrate.










Echinodorus tennellus
Height: 5-10cm
Width: 7-15cm
Ease of care: Moderate
Notes: Fairly undemanding however it does need good lighting if it is to thrive.










Anubias barteri var. 'nana'
Height: 7-15cm
Width: 10-20cm
Ease of care: Easy
Notes: A very undemanding plant and well known for its tough leaves, which makes it ideal for tanks containing fish that will rip apart more delicate species.










Ludwigia repens
Height: 30-50cm
Width: 20cm
Ease of care: Easy-moderate
Notes: Easy to care for however does best if iron is added to the water.










Egeria densa
Height: 20-70cm
Width: 10-20cm
Ease of care: Easy
Notes: A fast growing species that quickly sends down roots, also popular for coldwater aquariums due to its toughness and tolerance of cold temperatures.










Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
Height: 5-10cm
Width: 5-10cm
Ease of care: Easy-moderate
Notes: Needs a nutrient-rich substrate and good lighting.










Cabomba carolina
Height: 30-50cm
Width: 20-30cm
Ease of care: Easy
Notes: Easy to care for however it can rot if conditions are unfavourable. Does best when iron is added to the water.










Some useful links

Tropica - Danish website containing information on their excellent plants and planted tank products.

Aqua Essentials - Suppliers of tropica plants, also the aladdins cave of planted tank equipment.

www.barrreport.com - All the info you need on planted aquariums from planted aquarium expert Tom Barr.

DENNERLE - Products for the planted aquarium from german manufacturer dennerle.

Aqua Design Amano Co., Ltd (ADA)¡Ý Nature Aquarium - Website of ADA products and famous aquascaper Takashi amano, founder of the amano method of aquascaping.


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## PoisonGirl (Oct 24, 2008)

Very helpful, thanks 
Going to be setting my tank up soon and want live plants.

x


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## Superpettoysrus.com (Nov 23, 2008)

Great article......i just been and got 3 more plants for my aquarium...i wanted to add some pete or something in before i sset my tank up but just couldnt find any so im hoping my plants will take anyway.....they seem ok sending out roots and things.


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