# How do stop my dog going bonkers at cats



## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

Hi everyone, Milo's training for lead aggression is coming along very well. But its his behaviour towards cats that is proving the most challenging. He goes crazy and to add to the problem the house at the bottom of our street have six cats,so when he see's one it is difficult to calm him down.
I can understand that dogs hate cats but I'm going to have people thinking that I'm killing him because his bark is so high and intense its like a scream and he's so wound up he is hard to calm down. Has anyone any advice or help to offer me.

Banging my head against the wall:mad2::mad2::mad2:
Duncan


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

- use calmatives before leaving the house - 
and ASSOCIATE them with being calm at home [use each one during relaxed times in the evening]. 
see post #22 of the Dog-Body-language sticky for What, How, When, etc.

- invest in a Calming-Cap to limit his visual stimuli - 
just like a horse wearing a fly-mask, it makes distant things fuzzy in their focus.

- use a front-clipped H-harness to walk him, so that he can promptly & immediately be turned AWAY 
from any cat that appears, & use a pre-taught 'Emergency U-Turn' to get the heck outta Dodge quickly, 
but with the dog happy & following along.

- see the books _'Click to Calm'_ or _'Control Unleashed'_ for B-Mod protocols. 
IME, the protocols in *Click to Calm* are the more-detailed, step-by-step DIY.

- see UTube for video clips showing how-to, or successes - 
use "CU, clicker" or "Click to calm" or "habituate to cats" or "desensitize to cats" as search-terms.


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## Malmum (Aug 1, 2010)

I had to take one of my Mal pups back at two years of age and he was terrible with my cat. He would chase him every opportunity he got and sit staring at the window all evening just waiting for him to come in - with the high prey drive of the Mal I had to do something fast. I tried lots of different things but nothing worked in the end I resorted to a 5ml syringe filled with water which I held in the palm of my hand so as he couldn't see it was coming from me and when he saw the cat i'd give a very short sharp squirt in the face. I'm afraid I had to use such a drastic measure for my cats safety and after just two squirts he began to lose interest, after a couple of days he would just ignore my cat and now he lives with another cat in his new home very peaceably. That's him on the rug.









It's maybe not the way most people would do it but it worked. With your boy a quick squirt when you he see's a cat, no words just keep it silent, I think the element of surprise is what takes them aback!


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

Having the same difficulty myself (until I moved) I used the Stop, turn and refocus method (don't know if it's actually called that). Or you could train in a good leave command - if you don't already have it.

Do you tense up or get nervous when you are about to pass the house with 6 cats? Or do you remain nonchalant? (Nonchalance is better - as your dog doesn't pick up on anything)

When you see a cat, don't react until your dog reacts, if he's just looking and sniffing, tell him good boy, but keep walking. If looking and sniffing turns into lunging/aggression (sorry don't know your dog's history) then "Too bad" and turn and walk the other way, when he has calmed down and stopped looking back - a simple "watch me" using a treat then walk back the way you came.

I'm assuming of course you know what the "watch me" is? 
But I'll explain anyway - hold a treat up to your eyes, when the dog is looking at or around your eyes - reward. Then after about 5 - 10 bring in the words "Watch me" - then take it in the garden, in the bathroom, on the drive, on a walk - stop and practice. The more practice in different environments the better for you and him.

Do you have a leave command? 

Also what breed is your dog?


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## Malmum (Aug 1, 2010)

Flynn is reactive to dogs and bikes and I like the LAT training that Rottiefan told me to try. Instead of stopping him looking at what triggers his reaction I say in a light hearted, happy voice "Look at that" and as soon as he does I click my clicker and treat him, which I continue to do all the time the trigger is in sight. Now he is mostly looking to me for a treat.

I agree with Rottiefan that you don't always see the trigger before the dog so it's good for him to be able to look at it without reacting. I have found that with the use of the clicker it's working well and I have to say that I now love the clicker for many situations.


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

Malmum said:


> Flynn is reactive to dogs and bikes and I like the LAT training that Rottiefan told me to try. Instead of stopping him looking at what triggers his reaction I say in a light hearted, happy voice "Look at that" and as soon as he does I click my clicker and treat him, which I continue to do all the time the trigger is in sight. Now he is mostly looking to me for a treat.
> 
> I agree with Rottiefan that you don't always see the trigger before the dog so it's good for him to be able to look at it without reacting. I have found that with the use of the clicker it's working well and I have to say that I now love the clicker for many situations.


Hi again, I agree with rottiefan, any distracting technique helps when you use it right. At the moment what I do to distract him from setting other dogs, is the look at me command and then I treat him with a piece of chopped hotdog.
The only downfall with hotdogs is your pocket stinks, but dogs love them.
We must of spent pounds on doggy treats, but he doesn't like them, but hot dogs he can't get enough of them and they are working with him.
Anyway your dogs look lovely and I bet they have great time with you and your family.

talk again soon:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

SLB said:


> Having the same difficulty myself (until I moved) I used the Stop, turn and refocus method (don't know if it's actually called that). Or you could train in a good leave command - if you don't already have it.
> 
> Do you tense up or get nervous when you are about to pass the house with 6 cats? Or do you remain nonchalant? (Nonchalance is better - as your dog doesn't pick up on anything)
> 
> ...


Hi, yes we do use the look at me command and we using it with his training for lead aggression. The problem he is having with cats is just one of those things at present and we are trying to address this with his training as he is a rescue dog there are lots of things that need addressing.
His breed is a sporting Lucas terrier, which is a cross between a border terrier and a sealyham and I think jrt.

Hope to talk to you again:thumbup::thumbup:


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

SMILEY MILO said:


> Hi, yes we do use the look at me command and we using it with his training for lead aggression. The problem he is having with cats is just one of those things at present and we are trying to address this with his training as he is a rescue dog there are lots of things that need addressing.
> His breed is a sporting Lucas terrier, which is a cross between a border terrier and a sealyham and I think jrt.
> 
> Hope to talk to you again:thumbup::thumbup:


Ahh a terrier mix - tough one...

Terriers were bred with the added aggression towards anything that moved due to the need for them on farms. Typically they are vermin hunters.

Is he interesting in balls/squeaky toys? My friends JRT is obsessed with balls - dog aggressive too, she would lunge and everything at other dogs then they found out her obsession and played on that. Now they can walk within feet of another dog but the JRT will not react as long as the ball is around.

Could you use this to your advantage?


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

SLB said:


> Ahh a terrier mix - tough one...
> 
> Terriers were bred with the added aggression towards anything that moved due to the need for them on farms. Typically they are vermin hunters.
> 
> ...


How did you guess, at present he is holding the world record for taking the squeek out of any squeeky toy, its less than 20 mins and the squeeker is on the floor. His toy bag is full of things without their squeekers, we have counted 35 in all.
He hasn't the attacking aggression needed to kill something, its just play and even when he shows aggression towards another dog its the initial greeting that is aggressive but he soon settles down and is calm and submissive.
Infact on most of his walks now, he only wimpers a bit then goes back to enjoying the walk. The problem we think stems back to when he was a pup, we did some background checking on Milo and we have found out that his first owner had a german shepherd dog that didn't get on with Milo and savagely attacked him and we think mentally scarred him. So now he thinks that every dog is a threat to him and he must get in there first before they get him. At the moment his training is involving him meeting only dogs that are calm and do not react back at him when he lunges. We are using the "say hello" command and once he has smelled their bits he backs off and is fine. His training is going to take time as his problem is deep, but we are getting there slow but sure.
I will keep you informed of his progress.
He's such a cutie and he loves people, infact our youngest dog who was nearly 14 when she died back in March only liked people she new and when a stranger called to the house, we always had to put her into the other room because she would have gone at the them.
Thanks again for your advice I really appreciate it.

:thumbup::thumbup:


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

SMILEY MILO said:


> How did you guess, at present he is holding the world record for taking the squeek out of any squeeky toy, its less than 20 mins and the squeeker is on the floor. His toy bag is full of things without their squeekers, we have counted 35 in all.
> He hasn't the attacking aggression needed to kill something, its just play and even when he shows aggression towards another dog its the initial greeting that is aggressive but he soon settles down and is calm and submissive.
> Infact on most of his walks now, he only wimpers a bit then goes back to enjoying the walk. The problem we think stems back to when he was a pup, we did some background checking on Milo and we have found out that his first owner had a german shepherd dog that didn't get on with Milo and savagely attacked him and we think mentally scarred him. So now he thinks that every dog is a threat to him and he must get in there first before they get him. At the moment his training is involving him meeting only dogs that are calm and do not react back at him when he lunges. We are using the "say hello" command and once he has smelled their bits he backs off and is fine. His training is going to take time as his problem is deep, but we are getting there slow but sure.
> I will keep you informed of his progress.
> ...


But could you use the toy next time he sees a cat - that means cat = toy instead of chase/play/kill or whatever.. If you get him interested in it before you past the house with the cats then he won't (hopefully) know he's passing the house.. if he does realise - you either turn away - as I said in my first post - or you keep going ignoring any behaviour he exhibits. It may take some time - it may take none at all, but stick with it and you should get the behaviour you want.

Terriers are/were bred for the aggression - but this is slightly diluted in todays terriers (well some) due to not needing it - but they are one of the groups of dogs who's instinct is still really strong. Although no one told that to my BC x JRT - who cuddles up with hamsters and rabbits  but then I have a lab x spaniel who does the same and he's from working lines - what rubbish dogs I have..

I wish you success - and I will look forward to all the good you have


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## Malmum (Aug 1, 2010)

SMILEY MILO said:


> The only downfall with hotdogs is your pocket stinks, but dogs love them.
> We must of spent pounds on doggy treats, but he doesn't like them, but hot dogs he can't get enough of them and they are working with him.


Now you see the ONLY thing that will ALWAYS catch Flynn's attention are dolly mixtures, yep I know, bad for dogs but great for training this boy, trouble is on a wet day in a coat pocket that isn't particularly water proof they get all stuck together and very sticky, pocket lined with goo - very yukky indeed!


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

SLB said:


> But could you use the toy next time he sees a cat - that means cat = toy instead of chase/play/kill or whatever.. If you get him interested in it before you past the house with the cats then he won't (hopefully) know he's passing the house.. if he does realise - you either turn away - as I said in my first post - or you keep going ignoring any behaviour he exhibits. It may take some time - it may take none at all, but stick with it and you should get the behaviour you want.
> 
> Terriers are/were bred for the aggression - but this is slightly diluted in todays terriers (well some) due to not needing it - but they are one of the groups of dogs who's instinct is still really strong. Although no one told that to my BC x JRT - who cuddles up with hamsters and rabbits  but then I have a lab x spaniel who does the same and he's from working lines - what rubbish dogs I have..
> 
> I wish you success - and I will look forward to all the good you have


Thank you for the great advice, and you've read our minds, we are going to use a squeeky toy as a distraction because we've had a practice run and it works, so now we are going to use it with the hotdogs.
I wonder if you have any advice on how to control my out of control wife, we've been together for 30 years and she is only happy being leader of the pack, is there any way to put her into a calm submissive state, I've tried using the rolling pin but she keeps hitting me over the head lol!
Anyway talk to you again very soon.:thumbup::thumbup:


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

SMILEY MILO said:


> Thank you for the great advice, and you've read our minds, we are going to use a squeeky toy as a distraction because we've had a practice run and it works, so now we are going to use it with the hotdogs.
> I wonder if you have any advice on how to control my out of control wife, we've been together for 30 years and she is only happy being leader of the pack, is there any way to put her into a calm submissive state, I've tried using the rolling pin but she keeps hitting me over the head lol!
> Anyway talk to you again very soon.:thumbup::thumbup:


Ohhh - I'm female and I rule my roost too! :thumbsup:


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

SLB said:


> Ohhh - I'm female and I rule my roost too! :thumbsup:


!!!oooopppsss!!!!!!!! sorry!!!!!!


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

Malmum said:


> Now you see the ONLY thing that will ALWAYS catch Flynn's attention are dolly mixtures, yep I know, bad for dogs but great for training this boy, trouble is on a wet day in a coat pocket that isn't particularly water proof they get all stuck together and very sticky, pocket lined with goo - very yukky indeed!


Hi, I'm afraid that dolly mixtures are my vice and if I was supposed to give to Milo, !!!!NO CHANCE!!!!!


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

Hi, this aggression Milo has against cats, is it curable? with him being a rescue dog and the lack of socialising with other dogs that he is suffering, it has me wondering if this is the main cause of the aggression against cats.
I agree with you that because he's a terrier it is in his blood, but having two jack russell bitches for nearly 14 years I think this aggression must be more with dogs rather than bitches.
With Milo his high pitched screaming bark is just excitment but it can be very embarassing because its like an animal in distress. I am hoping that his lead training and some of the ideas from you very lovely friends, should work hopefully.:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

SMILEY MILO said:


> ...this aggression Milo [displays toward] cats, is it curable?


'curable' in the sense of removing the aggro, as if it were an inflamed appendix that we took out? No, sadly. 

but manageable, preventable, re-trainable? DEFINITELY. :thumbup:

teaching him a new, consistent behavior that he should do every time he sees a cat is very possible - 
it takes time, practice & consistent *management* above all, so that he cannot ever have the chance 
to go tearing after a cat & chase the poor beast up a tree, indoors thru a cat-flap that he won't fit thru, 
or worst of all, to CORNER or even CATCH a cat - that could be disastrous. No matter how many times we think 
a dog's reactivity is 'just play', it only takes -one!- opportunity to aggress that ends in bloodshed or injury, 
& the entire complexion of the dog's behavior is now changed.

i'd suggest the _'Look at that!'_ pattern, myself, where the dog looks at the trigger, 
then immediately looks to the HANDLER for a reward for their non-reactive glance - it's easy to teach, 
it becomes a good solid default behavior, & it gets the dog's gaze *off the trigger* quickly - a stare-down 
is the last thing we want, where the dog & the cat [squirrel, other dog, whatever] stare while the tension 
cranks ever-upward & the explosion, when it comes, can be stunning: the other animal may flee or attack, 
the dog might Re-Direct & bite the handler  - all sorts of very bad-things can happen.

we definitely want to avoid staring-contests! :scared: they're unpredictable & potentially very dangerous.


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

Two books I would say will help you understand your dog and dogs in general -

"Stop, how to stop predatory chasing in dogs" - This is more for those with serious problems - like sheep chasing if they have killed - but my tip for those would to be keep the dog on a lead around sheep.. not all people do. It is written by an ex police dog handler - of which has a very good bit about obsession with balls and other things in order to stop the dogs chasing what it most desires (until the obsession with what you have)

Another - Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson - amazing book. Worth the read, if not for anything else.


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

leashedForLife said:


> 'curable' in the sense of removing the aggro, as if it were an inflamed appendix that we took out? No, sadly.
> 
> but manageable, preventable, re-trainable? DEFINITELY. :thumbup:
> 
> ...


Hello, I know that this is a problem with him and we have a long way to go to sort it completely. I thank you very much for your excellent advice and the "look at that" command makes perfect sense. We are making some progress with him, but we can't be complacent and relax the commands as we know that this will be disasterous.
We are thinking about bringing another dog into the family, so that they can hopefuly be company for each other. Do you think we are doing the right thing because before this we had two JRT's for nearly 14 years and they were both bitches but got on fine with each other, so we are thinking that another bitch may help.
Any advice from you about this would be a great help.

Thank you. :thumbup::thumbup:


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

SLB said:


> Two books I would say will help you understand your dog and dogs in general -
> 
> "Stop, how to stop predatory chasing in dogs" - This is more for those with serious problems - like sheep chasing if they have killed - but my tip for those would to be keep the dog on a lead around sheep.. not all people do. It is written by an ex police dog handler - of which has a very good bit about obsession with balls and other things in order to stop the dogs chasing what it most desires (until the obsession with what you have)
> 
> Another - Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson - amazing book. Worth the read, if not for anything else.


Hi, thanks! I will look out for them, I should be able to pick them up at the library, so I will let you know when I have them to read.
:thumbup::thumbup:


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## leashedForLife (Nov 1, 2009)

SMILEY MILO said:


> We're thinking about bringing another dog into the family, so that they can hopefully
> be company for each other.


i'd deal with this dog's problem-behaviors first. A 'new' dog would need time & attention of their own, 
& no matter how well-intentioned we are, there's only 24-hours in the day - time has to come from somewhere.

with just one dog, we can focus exclusively on her or him. Besides, if we *want* dog-company for our solo-dog, 
we can find a nice sociable dog who belongs to someone else to play with - Right? And after they're done, 
playtime is over, the dog-playmate goes home with their own humans, & Ur dog comes home with U.

i don't have to *own* 2 dogs, for my dog to enjoy canine-company. There's plenty of dogs around. 
i just need to choose a dog s/he will enjoy as a playmate, from the local candidates. :001_smile:


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## SMILEY MILO (Aug 21, 2011)

leashedForLife said:


> i'd deal with this dog's problem-behaviors first. A 'new' dog would need time & attention of their own,
> & no matter how well-intentioned we are, there's only 24-hours in the day - time has to come from somewhere.
> 
> with just one dog, we can focus exclusively on her or him. Besides, if we *want* dog-company for our solo-dog,
> ...


Hi, Thank you again for the support and advice that you are giving me, it is nice to know that I have someone there who has the experience and know how. Today I took Milo to a pet shop where I know the owner and who has a number of rescue dogs in her care. I introduced Milo to one of the dogs, a young Cocker Spaniel called Pebbles. I was expecting the usual greeting from Milo, but to my surprise he and pebbles hit it off straight away. No screeching bark or snarl at pebbles they played together as if they had known each other for ages. The Owner of the shop is also a volunteer dog assessor at our local animal rescue centre. She was able to put my mind at rest by saying Milo is not aggressive towards other dogs but nervous. Because he was attcked at a very young age, Milo is doing what he thinks is right and that is going at the other dog rather than letting the other go at him. His barking is nervous excitement as he just wants to play but feels he has to show dominance towards the other dog before he starts to play. But what is happening is he snarls the other dog then snarls and Milo has to back off. By this time the other dogs owner has seen enough and pulls their dog away. I do say sorry and try to explain Milo's problem but not all owners are prepared to give Milo a chance.
As we are Milo's fourth family it is apparent that because of this problem, they have not been able to cope with him and given up. I can say this we won't be giving up on Milo and this will be his forever home.

All the best to you.

Duncan

P.S. For the moment we have decided to take your advice and give Milo the best possible support.:thumbup:


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