# chocolate lab skin problems????



## vickycole (Mar 13, 2012)

Can anyone one share their knowledge on this topic please??? I have always had black labs through my entire childhood (my folks still have them!!) so as I have small kids, in choosing a dog to fit in I felt most comfortable getting a lab - however I bought a chocolate...my parents have ripped my decision to bits saying that the chocolate lab is renound for having bad skin problems and it was a really bad decision. Is this the case?? does anyone know about this?? and does anyone have a choc lab with bad skin conditions?? if so what are you doing to remedy the animals situation??? Any info is greatly appreciated, thank you for reading


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

Urm all dogs have different skin types - regardless on colour... 

Look at his diet. 
Look at allergies. 

Both of the above can cause problems with skin. I have never heard of a choc lab having more skin issues than the other two colours...


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

vickycole said:


> Can anyone one share their knowledge on this topic please??? I have always had black labs through my entire childhood (my folks still have them!!) so as I have small kids, in choosing a dog to fit in I felt most comfortable getting a lab - however I bought a chocolate...my parents have ripped my decision to bits saying that the chocolate lab is renound for having bad skin problems and it was a really bad decision. Is this the case?? does anyone know about this?? and does anyone have a choc lab with bad skin conditions?? if so what are you doing to remedy the animals situation??? Any info is greatly appreciated, thank you for reading


Oh the myths about chocolate Labs 

Has you dog got skin problems or is this just you responding to your parents talking rubbish?

You will hear all sorts of things spouted about chocolate Labs - and TBH - they can apply to ALL Labs equally if you haven't bought properly in the first place.

i.e. from a responsible breeder who KC registers their breeding stock and uses the health test schemes available (absolute minimum of hipscoring and annual eye tests).

If you bought from a BYB or PF, then your risks of your pup developing a range of health problems are higher.

If you bought responsibly, then the risks are much lower.

Just like people, some dogs develop allergies, nothing to do with skin colour or even breed.

Some people tend to bathe their Labs too often, wrecking their coats and the oils in them, leading to skin problems.

I've got three chocolate Labs (9 and 2 x 3.5) and not a skin problem between them.

If a dog has dry skin, then adding Evening Primrose or Salmon Oil can help to improve it's condition.

But don't look for problems that aren't there, and if you are confident you have bought you pup responsibly, then stop listening to the many myths out there about chocolate Labs.


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## vickycole (Mar 13, 2012)

thank you so much for the feedback, certainly an owner of 3 chocolate labs telling me this is rubbish is very comforting. I'm sorry i'm not familiar with the short hand type - My puppy is kc registered, bought from a family who's pets were the mother and father of my puppy. The mother and father of my puppy were the only dogs/pets the family owned and this was their first litter... is this buying responisibly in your eyes??? They looked healthy, happy, extremely well taken care of dogs, kept in clean well maintained surroundings - I thought that was enough to be making a good decision - is there anything else I should have been aware of???? feedback is very much appreciated, thankyou


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

vickycole said:


> thank you so much for the feedback, certainly an owner of 3 chocolate labs telling me this is rubbish is very comforting. I'm sorry i'm not familiar with the short hand type - My puppy is kc registered, bought from a family who's pets were the mother and father of my puppy. The mother and father of my puppy were the only dogs/pets the family owned and this was their first litter... is this buying responisibly in your eyes??? They looked healthy, happy, extremely well taken care of dogs, kept in clean well maintained surroundings - I thought that was enough to be making a good decision - is there anything else I should have been aware of???? feedback is very much appreciated, thankyou


If I was buying a puppy, I would be looking for breed specific health-tests, i.e. Hipscores with reasonable scores (the breed average is 14, a few points higher than that wouldn't worry me if the other parent had a lower score), a current clear eye certificate for both parents (these last for 12 months) and ideally, one parent DNA tested (or hereditarily clear) for g-PRA.

For my own dogs, I hip and elbow score, eye test annually, and DNA test for PRA, CNM, and have just tested my eldest stud dog for EIC (he came back clear).

But - if I wanted a dog from a particular mating, I wouldn't touch it without hips, clear eye certificates and one parent PRA clear - if the other tests are done, I would consider it a bonus.

==============================

From what you say, it doesn't sound like your pups parents have been health-tested, so telling you all the above is a bit like "locking the stable door". (If I have got that wrong, you have my apologies).

What you need to do now is what I would advise ANY Lab puppy owner to do, get a good quality insurance, and exercise sensibly. Try to avoid the use of stairs where possible, stick to the 5 minute rule when walking, i.e. 5 minutes per age of month on lead walking up to 12 months, then you can build it up to whatever you want.

Look at protein levels in food, get a good quality puppy food that isn't too high in protein, and check that the calcium / phosphorous ratio is good.

At 6 to 9 months, start looking at transferring pup to a good quality adult food.

You need to balance building good muscle with not overdoing things. Try to avoid them jumping on and off things (I wish I could practice what I preach with my rebels ).

You will get people give you all sorts of "warnings" if you buy from un-health-tested parents - what it does mean is you run a higher risk of problems, but NOT a guarantee there will be problems - providing you sensible - allow the pup to develop muscle but not over-exercise, and feed properly - and like ANY puppy owner, ensure you have a good quality insurance.

Major joint problems will tend to show themselves within the first 12 months, but honestly, do NOT let this stop you enjoying your puppy - just be sensible.

Hip and elbow scores siginficantly reduce the risk of problems, but don't remove it - one of my girls (not chocolate) comes from excellent lines and health tested parents, and her hips are not good - I believe (although will never know for sure) that the good practice when she was young stopped them being worse - she's 6 now and built like an ox and still my fastest dog


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

Swarthy will be able to tell you more - she is a lab expert! 

But you need to look at health tests the parents had, like hips, elbows, eyes, patella etc..


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

SLB said:


> Swarthy will be able to tell you more - she is a lab expert!
> 
> But you need to look at health tests the parents had, like hips, elbows, eyes, patella etc..


I wouldn't got as far as to say "expert" 

No patella testing for Labs - As I understand it, it generally tends to be the smaller breeds for that.


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## SLB (Apr 25, 2011)

swarthy said:


> I wouldn't got as far as to say "expert"
> 
> No patella testing for Labs - As I understand it, it generally tends to be the smaller breeds for that.


I was just throwing in things that I know are tested  
And Ok "Swarthy is near enough and expert"


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## vickycole (Mar 13, 2012)

Thank you Swarthy for all that valuable info! I did look at hipscores, and there was nothing over 7/7 in the figures I was shown and I was happy at that, but I had no idea of all the other tests I should have been looking out for. I pray that he will be a healthy dog and will do everything I can to give him the best...I was looking at putting him on the royal canin labrador food (he is on beta puppy at the moment as that is what the breeder was using) would you recommend this?? or is there something else you prefer to use for your labs?? Many thanks


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## vickycole (Mar 13, 2012)

Yes SLB I do believe Swarthy is certainly an expert in this field!!! lol thank you for your posts both of you


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

vickycole said:


> Thank you Swarthy for all that valuable info! I did look at hipscores, and there was nothing over 7/7 in the figures I was shown and I was happy at that, but I had no idea of all the other tests I should have been looking out for. I pray that he will be a healthy dog and will do everything I can to give him the best...I was looking at putting him on the royal canin labrador food (he is on beta puppy at the moment as that is what the breeder was using) would you recommend this?? or is there something else you prefer to use for your labs?? Many thanks


OK - so it sounds like the parents were at least hipscored 

I know a lot of breeders and owners do use RC, I have always raised my pups (since switching to dry) on Arden Grange or Pro Plan Large breed puppy which is 28% protein.

Large Breed Formula - Products - Purina® Pro Plan®

The RC Junior Maxi is 30%.

I can't find a protein level for the RC Labrador Junior

=============================

On the rare occasions I have a litter, I switch mum to the Pro-Plan puppy at around 7 weeks - and then wean the babies on it - and keep my "keepers" on it until aroundd 6 months.

All my adult dogs are now fed on Simpsons Premium Salmon and Potato (which is gluten free - I actually made this switch for personal reasons, as a coeliac, I found that handling their dog food was causing me problems) - but I've been mightily impressed with the results 

I am not convinced I would use it for a bitch in whelp or for weaning, purely because I would be concerned it might create an intolerance to grains - my babies tend to get fed pretty much everything enjoying chicken, beef, oily fish, goats milk and rice pudding on top of their mushed puppy food 

====================================

Arden Grange is also a good food if you have a reliable stockist near you

Their Puppy / Junior Large breed is 26% - the two I raised solely on AG had the lowest (and funnily enough) identical hipscores - coincidence? I don't know - the only reason I stopped feeding it was because I had to buy it online and their delivery wasn't best reliable

http://www.ardengrange.com/Pet-Food/dog-food.asp?id=3

==============================

Simpsons Premium delivery really is second to none, they text and email you in the morning with an hour delivery slot - but I've never used any of their puppy products, so can't really comment.

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AG and Pro Plan are cheaper than RC - don't know if that will sway your decision, but if it were me, I would go for one of those if you are going to feed dried


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## rocco33 (Dec 27, 2009)

> and there was nothing over 7/7 in the figures I was shown


Were these the parents hip scores or were you looking at figures for dogs in their pedigrees?


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## swarthy (Apr 24, 2010)

rocco33 said:


> Were these the parents hip scores or were you looking at figures for dogs in their pedigrees?


 sadly, this is a well played trick by some breeders 

What is done is done whichever way you look at it, the objective now has to be to ensure that as much as possible is done to keep the pup healthy.

OP - Do get yourself a good quality insurance, it is invaluable if something bad does happen, and gives you peace of mind "just in case"

A lot of people I know don't have insurance, a few years ago, my eldest had a nasty bump and ruptured a disc in her neck - the debris spread throughout her spine and she was very close to paralysis - the operation cost just under £3K - I paid just £70 - she was right as rain within weeks and is still bouncing around here like a puppy at 9 years old.

Another one of mine injured her leg on the beach (same dog who has the poor hips) - never been bred from - but she's had around £6K worth of conservative treatment, I had to pay 10% of the balance, the remainder was paid by the insurance company direct to the company.

Certainly in the first instance, I could not have raised the funds for the operation (my girl was close to paralysis and undoubtedly would have been PTS  )

The 2nd scenario, we probably could have managed without, but it was good to know we had and were able to make an informed choice without having to worry too much about how we were going to pay for it.


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