# For new rabbit owners



## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

So I'll start the thread and let everyone fill in the info for the planned sticky. Leaving it as a blank template and will edit in the info people give till we have a full post of info to go into a locked sticky. As I edit info in please say if anyone disagree's with it and why.

*Ideal hutch size:* MINIMUM of 6ft x 2ft x 2ft http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/53724-rabbit-accommodation.html
*Ideal run size:* rabbits should have access to a run all day long not just in evenings, the size depends on the breed, however it is important to let your rabbits out of their run daily so they can have a proper run around and binky(jump mid air). The majority of rabbit rescues will only rehome a small/medium rabbit if it has a run no smaller than 4ft x6ft which should be attached to the hucth and for 2 small/medium rabbits 6ft x 6ft. additionally the rabbit should be able to stand on its back legs, do a height of at least 2 foot is required depending on breed. by attaching the run to the hutch the rabbit is less likely to have territorial behavior problems. A large rabbit such as a french lop, english lop, continental giant will require a much larger run and it is becuase of this they can be more suited to house rabbits. additionally it is important that even a small/medium house rabbit has access to a space at least the size of runs stated above, a kitchen or spare bedroom is ideal for the entire day not just in evening.
*Feeding, fruit, veg, plants. Good and bad:* http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39071-food-list.html
*Vaccinations needed:* http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39193-myxomatosis.html every 6 months, http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39195-vhd.html once a year.
*Why to neuter:* Males- Stops spraying, humping, hormonal behaviour
Female- stopes pseudo (false) pregnancies. 80% of unspayed females over the age of 3 get uterine cancer.
*common health problems to look out for:* http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39198-sunffles-pasteurella.html, http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39196-fkystrike.html, http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39094-gi-stasis.html
*How to handle your rabbit:* As i call it, cup and bum! One hand supporting chest, behind front legs, the other, supporting bum.
*Indoor vs outdoor:* Indoors- More secure against predators, more one to one contact. Outside- more natural, fresher air, freedom to run in a natural environment. Indoor setups- minimum of 6ft of space x 4ft. http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/rabbit-proofing.html
*Things to look out for:* http://www.lecoeurrabbitrescue.co.uk/from_top_to_tail.htm#Poop
*One bun or two:* If one rabbit is kept on its own it will need considerably more time spent with it than if you have a pair of rabbits, as you are its only playmate. A bonded pair of rabbits is a really lovely sight and the rabbits have company all the time, making them an all round happier bunny. Take into consideration that they will need much larger accomodation, and all bills will effectively double with a pair.
*Best bonded combination (MM/FF/MF):* While it is possible to keep two males or two females together, it is generally much more difficult than a mixed sex pair.
Same Sex - Two litter mates tend to get on better than intoducing the same sex at a later date, and as always it all depends on the temperment of the rabbit. Having both of the rabbits neutered will help to keep them bonded and/or bond them.
Mixed Sex - At least the male will have to be neutered in order to stop unwanted pregnancies, and baby buns. It is also often easier, as with same sex pairs, to have both of the rabbits "done" as this makes them less hormonal, so they should get on better.
It is also possible to bond more than two rabbits but it can be considerably harder than with two. Two females and a male is a popular mix, and seems to work well in most cases. Bear in mind that the more rabbits that are bonded together, the bigger the accomodation needs to be!!!
*Rabbit savy vets:*http://www.rcvs.org.uk/Templates/system/Search.asp?NodeID=89660

Any more points you can think to add to this list along with what you advice for it just let me know. Once all are agreed on the points made we can make the final sticky and pester Mark.


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## kellyrich (Jan 8, 2009)

Kammie said:


> So I'll start the thread and let everyone fill in the info for the planned sticky. Leaving it as a blank template and will edit in the info people give till we have a full post of info to go into a locked sticky. As I edit info in please say if anyone disagree's with it and why.
> 
> Ideal hutch size:
> Ideal run size:
> ...


I think maybe my original food list thread would also be good as a sticky i will contact Mark.

http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39071-food-list.html


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Hmm how about I add those links you posted a while ago to the relevant parts of this thread? Saves on lots of stickies and all in one place.


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

brill kammie!! and kelly thats a good idea hun


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## emzybabe (Jun 30, 2009)

Run size - rabbits should have access to a run all day long not just in evenings, the size depends on the breed, however it is important to let your rabbits out of their run daily so they can have a proper run around and binky(jump mid air). The majority of rabbit rescues will only rehome a small/medium rabbit if it has a run no smaller than 4ft x6ft which should be attached to the hucth and for 2 small/medium rabbits 6ft x 6ft. additionally the rabbit should be able to stand on its back legs, do a height of at least 2 foot is required depending on breed. by attaching the run to the hutch the rabbit is less likely to have territorial behavior problems. A large rabbit such as a french lop, english lop, continental giant will require a much larger run and it is becuase of this they can be more suited to house rabbits. additionally it is important that even a small/medium house rabbit has access to a space at least the size of runs stated above, a kitchen or spare bedroom is ideal for the entire day not just in evening.
please feel free to add to/make suggestions to this


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

Kammie said:


> Hmm how about I add those links you posted a while ago to the relevant parts of this thread? Saves on lots of stickies and all in one place.


your full of good ideas lol


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Why thank you!


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## kellyrich (Jan 8, 2009)

Kammie said:


> Hmm how about I add those links you posted a while ago to the relevant parts of this thread? Saves on lots of stickies and all in one place.


Oh yeah good idea! I forgot about all them lol! x


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

kellyrich said:


> Oh yeah good idea! I forgot about all them lol! x


I'll let you find them all out for me and link in here, can't remember how many you done now. Plus I can be a bit lazy!


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## kellyrich (Jan 8, 2009)

http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39198-sunffles-pasteurella.html

http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39196-fkystrike.html

http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39193-myxomatosis.html

http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39195-vhd.html

http://www.petforums.co.uk/rabbits/39094-gi-stasis.html

From top to tail


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

oh you 2 are good LOL
go kelly and kammie!!


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## VampiricLust (Mar 3, 2008)

Kammie said:


> So I'll start the thread and let everyone fill in the info for the planned sticky. Leaving it as a blank template and will edit in the info people give till we have a full post of info to go into a locked sticky. As I edit info in please say if anyone disagree's with it and why.
> 
> *Ideal hutch size:* MINIMUM of 6ft x 2ft x 2ft
> *Vaccinations needed:* Mxyimatosis (sp?) Every 6 months. VHD (Viral haemorrhagic disease) ONCE a year.
> ...


Added above


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

great advice vamp x


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Go team bunny!


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Right I'm off out now to do the shopping and housework. A womans work is never done and all that. 

Be back later and hope to see lots of advice for me to edit into the first post.


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## Adz_T (Jul 30, 2009)

I've been looking for a big list of foods safe and unsafe for a while. This is a reliable source too.

Thanks very much Kammie and Kellyrich


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Come on guys I'm back home and housework done but theres no more bits of advice for me to add. Shame on you lot!


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Will do a final write up version tomorrow morning to get stickied. Any more info people want added post now or forever hold your peace


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## hazyreality (Jan 11, 2009)

How about - 
One or Two Rabbits? If one rabbit is kept on its own it will need considerably more time spent with it than if you have a pair of rabbits, as you are its only playmate. A bonded pair of rabbits is a really lovely sight and the rabbits have company all the time, making them an all round happier bunny. Take into consideration that they will need much larger accomodation, and all bills will effectively double with a pair.

Male/Male vs Female/Female vs Male/Female.

While it is possible to keep two males or two females together, it is generally much more difficult than a mixed sex pair. 
Same Sex - Two litter mates tend to get on better than intoducing the same sex at a later date, and as always it all depends on the temperment of the rabbit. Having both of the rabbits neutered will help to keep them bonded and/or bond them.
Mixed Sex - At least the male will have to be neutered in order to stop unwanted pregnancies, and baby buns. It is also often easier, as with same sex pairs, to have both of the rabbits "done" as this makes them less hormonal, so they should get on better.
It is also possible to bond more than two rabbits but it can be considerably harder than with two. Two females and a male is a popular mix, and seems to work well in most cases. Bear in mind that the more rabbits that are bonded together, the bigger the accomodation needs to be!!!

Feel free to change about a bit if it doesnt make sence, and check spelling 

*Heidi*


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Thanks Heidi, I must admit thats something I didn't think about when making the template.


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## hazyreality (Jan 11, 2009)

You are more than welcome Krammie  

we see alot of people on here asking about bonding, so may just help them a bit.

*Heidi*


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## crofty (May 2, 2008)

Oh this needs to be a stickie!

Also need more piccies of appropriate accommodation 

What about some info on rabbit proofing for indoor buns?

quite a good article:

http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/rabbit-proofing.html

Also helpful for finding a bunny specialist vet 

http://www.rcvs.org.uk/Templates/system/Search.asp?NodeID=89660


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Thanks Crofty I'll add that in now then start on the final to be stickied thread.


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

hazyreality said:


> You are more than welcome Krammie
> 
> *Heidi*


PMSL @ kRammie ooo new nick name there! :001_tt2:


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Trust you to point it out Frags


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## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

The new final thread is up now I just need to work out how to get it stickied.


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## hazyreality (Jan 11, 2009)

frags said:


> PMSL @ kRammie ooo new nick name there! :001_tt2:


Yeh trust you!!! At least I dont take the R from Frags(****) and give it to Kammie (Krammie) 
Sorry Kammie, it just rolls thru my fingers(cant say off my tongue!) easier  so you may get it a few more times :blushing:

I have been called Hazel on a Rep thingy  and that was neither Hazy or Heidi 

*Heidi*


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

you can call me **** if ya want lol i am a smoker


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## Lumpy (Jun 5, 2008)

What a good idea. I've learnt new things from reading this and I've had bunnies for many years and volunteered at a bunny rescue for a year.

Maybe mention something about toys? Or perhaps there is something and I've missed it.

_Bunnies are lively, active pets and enjoy having toys to play with. They like things they can pick up in their mouths and throw. You can buy special balls with treats hidden in for them to get out. An inexpensive toy for bunnies is cardboard. Mine love boxes. They can hide in them, climb on them and if all else fails, chew them. They are easily renewed when they get tatty.

Many rabbits also like to dig - fulfilling their natural instinct to burrow. Providing a sandpit filled with earth gives bunnies many happy hours digging - they often don't seem to realise they aren't getting anywhere!_
Just a rough idea - feel free to change it - or ignore it if it's covered somewhere already


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## frags (Feb 5, 2009)

Lumpy said:


> What a good idea. I've learnt new things from reading this and I've had bunnies for many years and volunteered at a bunny rescue for a year.
> 
> Maybe mention something about toys? Or perhaps there is something and I've missed it.
> 
> ...


brilliant, i will add it to the sticky post


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