# pup eating things in garden!



## zeitah (Mar 22, 2011)

Hey, My little cockapoo pup keeps eating the bark in our garden! I tell her a stern NO! and remove it from her mouth but before I know it she's at it again! 
I don't really want to put her on a training lead as I tried that one and she just stopped toileting...

Can anyone help?!


----------



## keirk (Aug 9, 2010)

Pups, like children, explore everything by putting it their mouths. The problem is that some things are potentially very harmful. 

I think you need to puppy proof your garden in the same way you've done your house. Ie move what can be moved and restrict access to everything else. Maybe covering the bark with plastic sheeting? Or getting some temporary fencing? 

If not she'll have to go on the lead / or be muzzled. 

Jack, being a lab, loves to carry anything in his mouth and managed to swallow a pebble - it made him quite unwell but it did come out the other end. We've now dug up all the gravel and put in a new patio...


----------



## Helbo (Sep 15, 2010)

You need to set your puppy up for success

Puppy proof your garden as best you can, and reward your dog for chewing things they are allowed (take a chew or treats out with you) rather than saying NO when they pick something up. 

Saying NO to your dog does nothing - they don't know what that word means. You need to teach your dog the LEAVE/DROP command(s).


----------



## zeitah (Mar 22, 2011)

Unfortunately stella isn't any good with any commands yet....Im trying the basics like sit and to come but shes only little, her attention span is zilch
Think I'm just gonna have to follow her everywhere as my garden is all bark around the boarders with trees and shrubs in so would be almost impossible to proof it.

Hope she loses interest soon! 

Just lastly I've been told by a dog behavourist that they do understand No and its the tone you say it in that communicates that we are disaproving of that particular action. 
I get so much conflicting advice and training tips, I just want to get it right with her


----------



## Jobeth (May 23, 2010)

They'd only 'understand' no in the sense that you taught them a specific command for that word. I would think that you'd be better teaching a command like 'drop'. My dog picks up commands quickly, but still doesn't generalise e.g. I taught him sit, but then also taught him sit at a distance etc and the same would be for the word 'no'. 

At pets at home they do a harmless gel that is supposed to stop them going to the toilet for outside areas and maybe you could use that on the bark until they learn the command?


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

you could try with a treat on your open palm, then close your hand, say leave repeat leave, then open your hand so its on the flat palm again and then say take it as you offer it nearer. Keep doing repetitions of that, repeating leave twice before opening your palm offering nearer with the take it then let her have it as you say take it each time. If you practice indoors first so you can get her attention easier with no distractions, when she then seems to "get it" then you can try in the garden, Go out with treats, when she goes for something then quickly try the leave it command, then just as quickly show her your open palm with the treat, she should hopefully focus on that instead you can then offer it on the flat palm with the take it command. Make sure you use something she really loves thats gets her interest for the treat, little bits of cheese,chicken, hot dogs are good. She should eventually associate the leave it command means she cant have it, and if you have something to offer each time, while you are training, she should then start to anticipate, that she is going to get something better for doing it, and she will also learn that take it means she can have something too.


----------



## Helbo (Sep 15, 2010)

zeitah said:


> Unfortunately stella isn't any good with any commands yet....Im trying the basics like sit and to come but shes only little, her attention span is zilch


The first thing they taught me at my training class was to hold your dogs attention on you by saying a word like WATCH, or you could just use their name (unless in the future you want calling there name to mean come here), and get them to just wait for the treat longer and longer. This is supposed to increase their attention span.

I'm sorry to say your post reads as if you've got a defeatist attitude and it makes me wonder how hard you've really tried with the training...

You say you've spoken to a behaviourist - but perhaps you need to go to a regular training class.



zeitah said:


> Just lastly I've been told by a dog behavourist that they do understand No and its the tone you say it in that communicates that we are disaproving of that particular action.
> I get so much conflicting advice and training tips, I just want to get it right with her


Yes the dog understands when you tense up your body and face, and increase your volume and 'darken' your tone that's a bad thing. Do you really want to scare your dog to teach them? Wouldn't you rather reward your dog for good behaviour and you be related to pleasant experiences rather than someone to be afraid of?

In my opinion scaring and shouting at your dog for 'training' purposes can be just as harmful as smacking them.

I don't meant to sound harsh but it sounds to me like you should buy a few books and do some proper research on different training techniques and decide which style you'd like to use rather than relying on 'tips'. I'd also suggest you go to a regular training class for proper guidance.


----------



## RobD-BCactive (Jul 1, 2010)

The problem with just "No!" is that you're not replacing the desire to chew the bark, with something you do like the dog to do.

When you teach your puppy fun alternatives, like an approved liked chew toy that you can drag around to lure with, the bark chewing will diminish quite quickly as good habits develop.

When you supress something, the supressee is just thinking "I'll wait until she's not looking" and the forbidden is more attractive.

So your choice is, either monitoring the dog constantly for infringement of rules and telling it off; or teaching it things that you are happy with and being able to say "good!" an awful lot, soon. Think about which option is going to result in your puppy bonding more affectionately to you, intimidation or calm guidance!

Your pup needs to chew on something, so give it something it can chew regularly, mine liked dried tripe sticks and hide as well as certain toys which needed closer supervision.

A recently mentioned puppy training blog, linked to a game which might help, it aids impulse control and not eating everything in sight Its Yer Choice


----------



## zeitah (Mar 22, 2011)

Sled dog hotel said:


> you could try with a treat on your open palm, then close your hand, say leave repeat leave, then open your hand so its on the flat palm again and then say take it as you offer it nearer. Keep doing repetitions of that, repeating leave twice before opening your palm offering nearer with the take it then let her have it as you say take it each time. If you practice indoors first so you can get her attention easier with no distractions, when she then seems to "get it" then you can try in the garden, Go out with treats, when she goes for something then quickly try the leave it command, then just as quickly show her your open palm with the treat, she should hopefully focus on that instead you can then offer it on the flat palm with the take it command. Make sure you use something she really loves thats gets her interest for the treat, little bits of cheese,chicken, hot dogs are good. She should eventually associate the leave it command means she cant have it, and if you have something to offer each time, while you are training, she should then start to anticipate, that she is going to get something better for doing it, and she will also learn that take it means she can have something too.


Ooo I'll definately be trying this, bought some hotdogs especially

Thankyou all for the tips!


----------



## TheFredChallenge (Feb 17, 2011)

Zeitah I understand and am in a similar situation but with repetetive digging. He'll go out for a wee or even before that will find a patch and commence. This has been going on sometime now and is driving me nuts....my dog is 16 weeks and a Lab. He knows it winds us up and we have to watch him all the time it feels (which I don't want happening - as that's not helpful to anybody!).

I tell him 'No', tidy it back up and and spray it with the lemon type spray you get get. The lemon spray stops him and might be worth a try with your bark. I have tried the putting on a lead and taking inside (but that's not a good idea as it puts a negative on the lead and going inside, so we changed from that idea). We've tried to divert with treats, high pitched excited calling and toys - but he goes into 'deaf mode' and so I know how you feel about this. 
Mm....one comment posted above wasn't all that great to read......why would you be looking for advice and help with this posting on this forum if you had a defeatist attitude? Sometimes things can get you down and comments of the like aren't helpful. 

I will be taking the advice of saying 'leave it' though....instead of 'no' as RobD helpfully suggests.

GJ


----------



## TheFredChallenge (Feb 17, 2011)

Also (to jump in on this thread) as I'm after similar advice - when in the act of the unwanted behaviour and you try to divert with a treat - doesn't that tell a clever dog 'ooh if I dig/chew this they'll stop me with a treat' WINNER! ???? 

I'm really stuck on this and have pondered so many times what is best to do.


----------



## zeitah (Mar 22, 2011)

Helbo said:


> I'm sorry to say your post reads as if you've got a defeatist attitude and it makes me wonder how hard you've really tried with the training...
> 
> You say you've spoken to a behaviourist - but perhaps you need to go to a regular training class.
> 
> ...


Whoa!!!! firstly we are enroled for puppy class, bought and paid for but due to the vets advice I cannot attend until Stella is 12 weeks as the breeder had her Vaccinated first time with Duramune and I can't find a vet within My area which uses this so she has to have two more jabs of a different type . I asked the trainer (the behavourist) advice on a few things.

You do sound harsh, we have being waiting for our pup for 4 months, I do have three books on raising, training and caring for pups. I have take a week and a half off work to give her as much love, support and stability as I can. I have never ever once SHOUTED at her and wouldn't dream of physical punishments.

Stella has so many chew toys and teddies, inside and yes outside, she is rewarded with low calorie treats suitable for her age and carrots.

My husbands father bred gun dogs for years, so hes not new to doggies like me, so I came here for extra advice.

Well thanks for the lecture Helbo, I won't be coming back and will be cancelling My sub.
I hope you don't speak to other members in this tone when all they come for is a bit support with the same community interest.


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

TheFredChallenge said:


> Zeitah I understand and am in a similar situation but with repetetive digging. He'll go out for a wee or even before that will find a patch and commence. This has been going on sometime now and is driving me nuts....my dog is 16 weeks and a Lab. He knows it winds us up and we have to watch him all the time it feels (which I don't want happening - as that's not helpful to anybody!).
> 
> I tell him 'No', tidy it back up and and spray it with the lemon type spray you get get. The lemon spray stops him and might be worth a try with your bark. I have tried the putting on a lead and taking inside (but that's not a good idea as it puts a negative on the lead and going inside, so we changed from that idea). We've tried to divert with treats, high pitched excited calling and toys - but he goes into 'deaf mode' and so I know how you feel about this.
> To say you have a negative attitude is unhelpful in my opinion as why would you be looking for advice and help with this posting on this forum if you had a defeatist attitude? Sometimes things can get you down and comments of the like aren't helpful.
> ...


You could try saying nothing, walk up and just stand in the spot he is digging,
works with mine, even with scratching up at the carpet, Mine just walk off or lay down if in the house. Then get praised for doing so to re-inforce it.


----------



## TheFredChallenge (Feb 17, 2011)

Brill thanks Sled dog hotel :001_smile: will try that one. Do I look at him at all or just ignore? (when I'm standing in the spot I mean)

Thank you :wink5:


----------



## zeitah (Mar 22, 2011)

RobD-BCactive said:


> The problem with just "No!" is that you're not replacing the desire to chew the bark, with something you do like the dog to do.
> 
> When you teach your puppy fun alternatives, like an approved liked chew toy that you can drag around to lure with, the bark chewing will diminish quite quickly as good habits develop.
> 
> ...


That's a great idea, never thought of hiding chew toys  and I'll look out for the tripe sticks too. Todays she's into running around with a big piece of willow My hubby brings in from work for our house buns. Safe stick replacement for nasty bark yay! 
Thankyou for the reply


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

TheFredChallenge said:


> Brill thanks Sled dog hotel :001_smile: will try that one. Do I look at him at all or just ignore? (when I'm standing in the spot I mean)
> 
> Thank you :wink5:


I dont say a word, just stand there bolt upright and dont even look at him,
when he has walked off, or laid down, then I wait a pause, then tell him what a good clever boy he is (Its my Malamute that does is mostly) although others do it occasionally.

With you question on distracting with food, and them cluing up that doing bad things gets a reward. I always put a "marker" in between so they do something in between that the reward is acknowledged for. Thats why I suggested the Leave and take it training exercise indoors first to the OP. not only to ensure more success as there is no distraction and the chance of getting more focus on the exercise is increased, but too teach it reliably before trying it in situ. By the time its taken outside to deal with the "Problem"
the pup should have the concept of leave and take it. She should be able to use the leave then when he goes for something to stop him, followed by the
treat on her palm thats offered with the take it command. 
If you want to mark it further, you could make him do a "wait" before the command take it. Hope Ive explained it OK.


----------



## TheFredChallenge (Feb 17, 2011)

Thanks for your time in replying Sled dog. We do a lot of 'leave it' whilst walking (not with 100% success yet success despite verbal praise and a treat after the event if succesful) and then I'm left taking stuff out of his mouth :nono: and so will put it in to practice with the palm reward technique and give that a go to see if I can stop him going for things in the first place. We're off out for a walk again now 

GJ


----------



## zeitah (Mar 22, 2011)

TheFredChallenge said:


> Mm....one comment posted above wasn't all that great to read......why would you be looking for advice and help with this posting on this forum if you had a defeatist attitude? Sometimes things can get you down and comments of the like aren't helpful.
> 
> I will be taking the advice of saying 'leave it' though....instead of 'no' as RobD helpfully suggests.
> 
> GJ


I'm doing the' leave it ' suggestion too now, I hadn't even thought of that. I'm using the open and close hand with treat to help it along.

Hope your digging pup gets the hints too 

Yeah that post wasn't very helpful, its put me off this site very much indeed. I don't think I'll not be asking for any other advice after that.


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

zeitah said:


> I'm doing the' leave it ' suggestion too now, I hadn't even thought of that. I'm using the open and close hand with treat to help it along.
> 
> Hope your digging pup gets the hints too
> 
> Yeah that post wasn't very helpful, its put me off this site very much indeed. I don't think I'll not be asking for any other advice after that.


Please dont be put off, There are lots of helpful knowledgeable people on here, some of which are professional trainers, and they are always willing to help. Be a shame to be put off by the odd one or two. It is a great forum and you can make some really good friends.


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

TheFredChallenge said:


> Thanks for your time in replying Sled dog. We do a lot of 'leave it' whilst walking (not with 100% success yet success despite verbal praise and a treat after the event if succesful) and then I'm left taking stuff out of his mouth :nono: and so will put it in to practice with the palm reward technique and give that a go to see if I can stop him going for things in the first place. We're off out for a walk again now
> 
> GJ


Have you taught him the drop command? If you teach both, it does give you a double whammy chance of getting stuff away. If you cant get them on the leave, you can sometimes get them with a drop.

Ive always taught mine drop through play, with a ball or toy, useful exercise allround to teach multi things. I usually teach sit and wait first. Then throw the ball, releasing from the sit wait with find it. Then once they have the ball,
call and encourage them to bring it back. I have a treat ready, show the treat and usually they will drop the ball for the treat, as they go to release the ball say drop, repeat drop, then give the treat for dropping it, pick up the ball and do the whole thing again. The beauty of this is they are "playing" dont even realise its training, so its fun for them, wears them out physically and mentally and you teach so many commands. You may need to do it a bit at a time, ie teach a reliable sit wait first, then the next bit and so on reliably.
before putting it all together, but evntually they should learn. Sit,wait,find it,
retrieve/recall, drop and also impulse control. So well worth trying. Eventually you shouldnt even have to give the treat in exchange for the ball, because they drop it automatically on the command drop, in the anticipation of another throw and the game being continued. You can then of course use the drop for other things too. Although if its of something they value you may need to reward it in that case at least for awhile with a treat.


----------



## Helbo (Sep 15, 2010)

I didn't mean to upset you so much


You DID post that you use a 'stern NO' and that the behaviourist agreed that the dog knows it's doing wrong because of your tone. I meant shouting as in 'telling off' not that you are screaming and yelling at your dog.

I meant that showing your dog that you're not happy with it's behaviour isn't doing anything - you have to show the dog what you want it to do instead. I assumed you hadn't done research about training - but maybe you have and don't want to use positive reinforcement? 



And the defeatist attitude comment was because after a couple of replies you posted that the dog has a rubbish attention span as if it's the dogs fault and theres nothing you can do about it. 


Sorry for upsetting you. Don't cancel your membership because of me. There are loads of really great people on here. I'm obviously not one of them.


----------



## Sled dog hotel (Aug 11, 2010)

Helbo said:


> I didn't mean to upset you so much
> 
> You DID post that you use a 'stern NO' and that the behaviourist agreed that the dog knows it's doing wrong because of your tone. I meant shouting as in 'telling off' not that you are screaming and yelling at your dog.
> 
> ...


Probably best to put it down to lost in translation on both sides!! it does happen sometimes, Ive read things and taken them the wrong way myself.
It is so easy done with the written word.


----------



## TheFredChallenge (Feb 17, 2011)

Yeh we do sit, stay, wait, lie down, and leave it. Also 'fetch it', 'bring it' and a lot of it is mood dependant on how tired he is as to the results of fetch it and bring it. But we're doing our best and this site has helped a lot to know you're not alone so definately won't be going anywhere. Stick with us Zeitah 
:001_smile:


----------



## RobD-BCactive (Jul 1, 2010)

TheFredChallenge said:


> Zeitah I understand and am in a similar situation but with repetetive digging. He'll go out for a wee or even before that will find a patch and commence. This has been going on sometime now and is driving me nuts....my dog is 16 weeks and a Lab. He knows it winds us up and we have to watch him all the time it feels


I had to supervise my Collie to avoid him digging. Not having them start, and replacing the digging intention, with an approved activity (not a food treat) is what I did, which was generally when he bit a piece out of the lawn.



TheFredChallenge said:


> Also (to jump in on this thread) as I'm after similar advice - when in the act of the unwanted behaviour and you try to divert with a treat - doesn't that tell a clever dog 'ooh if I dig/chew this they'll stop me with a treat' WINNER! ????
> 
> I'm really stuck on this and have pondered so many times what is best to do.


You're not a criminal-justice system with a dog, you're reinforcing behaviours you want and discouraging gently those you don't want and minimising opportunity for failure.

Things to keep a young active puppy out of trouble, that I used were puzzle feeders (made him work for his food), obedience training, play and also quiet times where he would settle down. You could make puppy-powered tug/fetch toy with bungee cord attached to suitable point, or encourage rolling balls on a slope; lots of things.

It is really like chewing things in the house, you can puppy proof all you want, but at some point there'll be a lovely smelly shoe or something, if you're not supervising.


----------



## RobD-BCactive (Jul 1, 2010)

zeitah said:


> That's a great idea, never thought of hiding chew toys  and I'll look out for the tripe sticks too. Todays she's into running around with a big piece of willow My hubby brings in from work for our house buns. Safe stick replacement for nasty bark yay!


Awww should I break the bad news about wood sticks? Errrrr... 
Chewing wood is another bad habit, you should try to avoid becoming ingrained. But a few chomps on a stick found won't hurt, so don't panic, but if they're swallowed or are bitten so they obstruct the mouth it can be distressing. Thrown sticks are not safe either, sometimes dogs get impaled on them  That said I do through a stick into a lake, that my dog swims after.

I found for first few weeks before trips out to play took over, that everything had to be investigated with mouth. I didn't view that with alarm, but would avoid stuff getting swallowed or chewed, by distraction with a toy.

I meant a good quality raw hide chew (bad ones might have metal contamination), to exercise the jaws, as well as dried chewy food. Sorry my English was not clear, though fortunately the meaning you understood, was a fun one 

The "Find It!" game, is another diversion. You let the pup smell the object, don't let him see where you put it, and then aid the search. I found sniffing with nose, got him to sniff & track, which he found very enjoyable. At first I made it quite easy to stumble across it, but once the idea is got then you could increase the difficulty by making objects harder to see.


----------



## herajika (Sep 25, 2010)

Helbo said:


> The first thing they taught me at my training class was to hold your dogs attention on you by saying a word like WATCH, or you could just use their name (unless in the future you want calling there name to mean come here), and get them to just wait for the treat longer and longer. This is supposed to increase their attention span.
> 
> I'm sorry to say your post reads as if you've got a defeatist attitude and it makes me wonder how hard you've really tried with the training...
> 
> ...


I am interested in what you say on negative reinforcement. Is it really so bad? Of course I am not talking about kicking or smacking the dog, but a firm NO shouldn't be harmful to the dog? Yes, positive reinforcement is all good when you want to encourage a behaviour, but what if you don't want the dog to behave in a particular way? You can *not* reward the behaviour and ignore the dog when it is doing it, but that is not really telling him behaviour X is the wrong thing to do...

Personally, I do say NO when my dog is actively doing something bad, i.e. picking up stones, humping, chewing on what he is not supposed to. Of course if the damage had been done, then I will not shout at him since he won't link that to the bad behaviour.


----------



## RobD-BCactive (Jul 1, 2010)

Sled dog hotel said:


> Probably best to put it down to lost in translation on both sides!! it does happen sometimes, Ive read things and taken them the wrong way myself. It is so easy done with the written word.


Basically, anyone trying to avoid a puppy getting frightened and shouted at means well. If noone is doing that, then that's good and there's no reason to take offence; it just helps us all get closer to the heart of the matter for discussing the possibilities.

The Behavourist is right, and it is amazing how gentle you can make the "No Reward" signal and have it understood. No need for drama about it, the puppy knows it's on the wrong track to earn a reward.


----------



## RobD-BCactive (Jul 1, 2010)

herajika said:


> I am interested in what you say on negative reinforcement. Is it really so bad? Of course I am not talking about kicking or smacking the dog, but a firm NO shouldn't be harmful to the dog?


Whilst one can say "No!", indicate "No reward" or use a gruff tone to communicate an error, that indeed does no harm and then you can ask the dog to do something you do want, so when it complies it's a "good dog" and all are happy.

The problem is the mindset and what it leads to. In practice when ppl say "a firm/stern No!" they are trying to deter a behaviour with an implicit threat. I see people most days, with poorly behaved dogs seeking to intimidate them by bluster; *it clearly does not work*. The quieter ppl who are calmly guiding their dogs, are the ones who's dogs really behave.

You don't get out of stage of constant supervision, because an active young dog, wants to do something, and unless you show it better things to do, it'll tend to repeat the "naughty" stuff or actually seek opportunities to do it when you are not around to stop it.


----------



## Helbo (Sep 15, 2010)

herajika said:


> I am interested in what you say on negative reinforcement. Is it really so bad? Of course I am not talking about kicking or smacking the dog, but a firm NO shouldn't be harmful to the dog? Yes, positive reinforcement is all good when you want to encourage a behaviour, but what if you don't want the dog to behave in a particular way? You can *not* reward the behaviour and ignore the dog when it is doing it, but that is not really telling him behaviour X is the wrong thing to do...


*Sorry for the long post in advance!* I hope this is read as intended. I'm not saying this in a negative tone or trying to lecture anyone, I'm just trying to explain why I chose positive reinforcement for my puppy.

The difference is that some people say NO and leave it at that - expecting the puppy to understand that they should stop what they're doing and find something positive to do themselves.

Others say NO and then immediately direct their dog onto a positive behaviour that they want to replace the negative behaviour.

Others don't use NO. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Put yourself in your dogs position:

You're sitting quietly in a room when you see a red alien object in front of you. It's so beautiful and interesting you decide you're going to touch it. You reach out to touch the red object and...

ENDING A - You hear a foreign sound "ZZXXDST". You're not sure, but you think you've heard this sound before and hesitate...then...You're not sure what you're meant to do next. Perhaps it was the way you approached the red object that was wrong? so you try again: "ZZXXDST!!!". You stop. You're a little confused. You decide not to touch the red object again.

OR

ENDING B - Immediately the alien you've seen before appears and shows you a fantastic blue object. They put the object in front of you and make it look so interesting that you decide to pick it up. When you do they give you the tastiest bit of candy you've ever eaten. You decide not to touch the red object again, playing with the blue object is much more fun.

Both endings have the same result - you don't really want to touch the red object again, but I know which ending I'd prefer to happen to me.

It may only be a qualitative difference to your dog, but I'm concerned with my dogs quality of life and have made the choice that I want Charlie to have the best, most positive life he can have with an owner he trusts and enjoys being around.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A less personal way to put it would be this:
A - You push a red button and it electrocutes you. You decide not to do that again. You see a blue button next to it. You decide not to push that either just in case it electrocutes you...but if you did push the blue button a treat would pop out and you'd decide not to push the red one again, but since nobody shows you the blue button is safe, you decide not to risk it.

B - You push a red button and nothing happens. You see a blue button next to it. You decide no harm can come of pushing it (or you see someone else push it and get a treat). You push the blue button, and a treat pops out. You decide pushing the red button isn't as nice as pushing the blue button. So from now on you push the blue button.

The idea is that you don't have to show that pushing the red button is bad, if you show successfully that pushing the blue button is good. You replace bad behaviour with good behaviour instead of just stopping bad behaviour.

Now I suspect some people would intend to mix the two and: C - You push a red button and it electrocutes you. You decide not to do that again. You see someone else push the blue button and get a treat, so you push the blue button and get a treat. You decide to push the blue button from now on.

The problem I have with NO, is when they use scenario A instead of C. And some people start out with C, but then feel their dog should know what 'NO' means, and slip into A. 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From a psychologists point of view (so imo) training is essentially operant conditioning. Operant conditioning discusses rewards and punishments, but it's the idea of extinction that is the key: "When a behavior is inconsequential, producing neither favorable nor unfavorable consequences, it will occur with less frequency".

Now you can choose to reduce the frequency of behaviour with rewarding good behaviour, ignoring bad behaviour and therefore encouraging bad behaviour to become 'extinct', OR, you can force the bad behaviour to be reduced in frequency via punishing bad behaviour and rewarding good behaviour.

Both ways result in extinction - it's just a choice of how you want to go about it

Please don't misunderstand, I'm not accusing anyone of 'punishing' their dog - it's just the way the theory is worded. Instead of punishing the bad behaviour, you say NO.


----------

