# First night with rabbit



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

She stayed at the bottom part of the 2 storied cage, refusing to climb up to the top via wooden ramp. She did gnaw on it but stopped when I said no. Is she affraid of heights or just don't have the brains to know climbing up the ramp means more room for her to run? She also only used half the bottom part of the cage for the most... maybe she's used to the small space from the rabbit breeder and now she's got too much room and afraid to explore?

Rabbit pissed and poo'ed everywhere but now I've placed some poop in the litter tray. Think that should work. It took me an hour to catch the rabbit to place it in the top part of the cage so I can clean the bottom half. Rabbit took over 3hrs eating a small amount of pellets, very slowly nibbling away each one and running around like a maniac before returning for one other pellet. She refused to eat that one small carrot slice I placed in her cage until I switch my lights on. Poor vision? Rabbit refused to drink water at first but after settling in she's drinking. Took a while before the water bottle stopped leaking drops too. 

The flax mat I bought for the rabbit to sleep on... she didn't like it and kept trying to take it apart to make a nest. Even my normal scissors couldn't cut that thick mat. What makes her think those little claws can...?

I'll keep her in the top half of the cage because it's easier to pet her. After she stops trying to run away from me I'll try to pick her up and let her run a bit in my room. I went to bed estimating 8hrs sleep and ended sleeping approx 5hrs. Only able to sleep properly after 6am. The main problem was the house thingy. She kept jumping up and down on that plastic house and made a horrible screeching noise. Tried placing hay on top of the plastic but didn't work cause she just knocked the hay off and did it again. Might need to remove the plastic house altogether, but then she'll have no hole to hide in. Maybe I should replace it with something furry as a house instead...

Cleaning is ok. The corner of the bottom part of the cage is difficult to clean cause there's no door there and my arms can't reach there. Top part of the cage is different cause you can open a door in the top as well as front so I can reach everywhere.

I'll need to buy something long to help me clean the cage.

She played with the chained food ball for half a minute and that was it. Didn't bother tossing the wooden ball with bell inside.

And previously people saying I'm wrong when I said the vet will be giving my rabbit a combined vaccination for £30, well that's what my vet said. Told me it's just that one off jab per year my rabbit needs, nothing more.

Now I just need to teach my rabbit to respond to her name.


----------



## Guest (Sep 16, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> She stayed at the bottom part of the 2 storied cage, refusing to climb up to the top via wooden ramp. She did gnaw on it but stopped when I said no. Is she affraid of heights or just don't have the brains to know climbing up the ramp means more room for her to run? She also only used half the bottom part of the cage for the most... maybe she's used to the small space from the rabbit breeder and now she's got too much room and afraid to explore?
> 
> She is a baby, the ramp won't feel safe. This is another reason why many of us told you that cage was unsuitable
> 
> ...


Not sure why I answered but there ya go.....


----------



## Louiseandfriends (Aug 21, 2011)

> now she's got too much room


Rabbits can never EVER have too much room! Poor baby! 

I agree with Bernie on everything.

Hey hey! Look at this. THIS is a more suitable hutch. http://www.preloved.co.uk/adverts/show/106419081/rabbit-hutch.html


----------



## LittlePaws AnimalRescue (Sep 11, 2012)

I wish this forum had a 'dislike' button.

That poor little rabbit, my heart goes out to her. I hope when you get bored of her (you will, I can tell) she finds a decent, loving home with someone who will treat her properly.
You dont deserve her.


----------



## Adam942 (Sep 22, 2011)

I agree with everything Bernie said.

However, my experience is abit different with their sleeping patterns. My two will both settle down in a dog basket i got them when i goto bed at night. I dont hear a peep out of them until morning, not sure why, i maybe just a heavy sleeper but they seem to know what bed time is. I know they should be running round like maniacs all night, but my two dont. They are just special  Other times they choose to sleep downstairs, upto them.

I have one of those "large" (yeah right) cages from Pets at Home, but i took one of the doors off and they hop in and out when they like. I call it the Dining Room because they go in there to eat. I couldnt imagine closing one of them in there, how would they jump and run? I made my boyfriend rip up 2 rooms of laminate flooring when we moved in here because i was worried the buns wouldnt be able to run around on it... 

There is lots of good advice floating around here and people do want to help. Have a good look at your home and see what adjustments can be made to give the bunny a free roaming home. Take a close look at advice surrounding wires, skirting boards etc.


----------



## Guest (Sep 16, 2012)

Adam942 said:


> I agree with everything Bernie said.
> 
> *However, my experience is abit different with their sleeping patterns. My two will both settle down in a dog basket i got them when i goto bed at night. I dont hear a peep out of them until morning, not sure why, i maybe just a heavy sleeper but they seem to know what bed time is. I know they should be running round like maniacs all night, but my two dont. They are just special  Other times they choose to sleep downstairs, upto them.*
> 
> ...


The reason it is different is because you've got two, so they keep each other entertained 
I notice a huge difference in night time behaviour once single rabbits are bonded into a pair


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

I've covered all the wires. The cage's door is open right now but she's refusing to climb down the wooden ramp and out the cage's front door lol. She's just finished her pellets and seems to like the timothy hay.

I tried enticing her with a carrot but she's ignoring me.


----------



## Louiseandfriends (Aug 21, 2011)

ninjayau said:


> I've covered all the wires. The cage's door is open right now but she's refusing to climb down the wooden ramp and out the cage's front door lol. She's just finished her pellets and seems to like the timothy hay.
> 
> I tried enticing her with a carrot but she's ignoring me.


Just give her time to get used to everything.


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Buddyandfriends said:


> Just give her time to get used to everything.


She kept running away from me so I trapped her in the cage's corner and wrapped her in a towel. She stopped moving then and I was able to pet her. After I god rid of the towel she stayed in the corner. I placed me hand lying on the hay next to her and she sniffed my hand... then kept grabbing hay and throwing it on top of my hand as if trying to burry my hand lol. She got bored of that and just sat there for the next ten minutes with my hand next to her, sniffing me once in a while. Then she stretched her legs looking like she's sun bathing. Tried stroking her head then but this time she darted back into the plastic house. Will repeat this towel method again tomorrow so she's used to me petting her.


----------



## niki87 (Nov 18, 2009)

I also agree with Bernie. 

Poor rabbit.

Still...when u get bored...whether it is the horrendous smell or indeed noise levels...or maybe she isn't as trainable as u first thought...get in touch for someone on here I am sure can help rehome her.


----------



## Guest (Sep 16, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> She kept running away from me so I trapped her in the cage's corner and wrapped her in a towel. She stopped moving then and I was able to pet her. After I god rid of the towel she stayed in the corner. I placed me hand lying on the hay next to her and she sniffed my hand... then kept grabbing hay and throwing it on top of my hand as if trying to burry my hand lol. She got bored of that and just sat there for the next ten minutes with my hand next to her, sniffing me once in a while. Then she stretched her legs looking like she's sun bathing. Tried stroking her head then but this time she darted back into the plastic house. Will repeat this towel method again tomorrow so she's used to me petting her.


Do not repeat the towel method unless 100% needed (a pet is not one of those situations), you will scare the life out of her if you continue.

Rabbits don't like to be handled or held, they are a prey species so picking them up is akin to them being eating by a predator, she is running away because she is terrified and what you are doing is not going to help that......


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Potty training failed. Rabbit's pissing and pooing everywhere in the cage. Tried picking up poo and placing it under some hay in the litter tray that's twice the rabbit's size. Rabbit just won't use it. From other websites they all say if the rabbit can't be potty trained she's not ready to head out the cage.


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

B3rnie said:


> Do not repeat the towel method unless 100% needed (a pet is not one of those situations), you will scare the life out of her if you continue.
> 
> Rabbits don't like to be handled or held, they are a prey species so picking them up is akin to them being eating by a predator, she is running away because she is terrified and what you are doing is not going to help that......


Will be using that method to get her in the pet carrier on Tues. No other way to get rabbit to vet.


----------



## jo-pop (May 27, 2011)

ninjayau said:


> Potty training failed. Rabbit's pissing and pooing everywhere in the cage. Tried picking up poo and placing it under some hay in the litter tray that's twice the rabbit's size. Rabbit just won't use it. From other websites they all say if the rabbit can't be potty trained she's not ready to head out the cage.


It will take time and lots of it. Mine are litter trained but didn't do it themselves. I think you need to back off and give her space to settle in and gain confidence in you and her surroundings. A good way is to sit on the floor in the room while she is running about. Just read a book to yourself. Do not try to entice her, do not try to pick her up. Do this every day. She will get used to your voice and realise you are no threat. Trying to force her to be picked up will set you back massively in gaining her trust.


----------



## Guest (Sep 16, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> Potty training failed. Rabbit's pissing and pooing everywhere in the cage. Tried picking up poo and placing it under some hay in the litter tray that's twice the rabbit's size. Rabbit just won't use it. From other websites they all say if the rabbit can't be potty trained she's not ready to head out the cage.


I doubt very much if you will litter train her before she is spayed 



ninjayau said:


> Will be using that method to get her in the pet carrier on Tues. No other way to get rabbit to vet.


There are plenty of other ways, you're just not interested 
If you can't handle a baby mini lop then god help you when she grows up and develops hormones


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

B3rnie said:


> There are plenty of other ways, you're just not interested
> If you can't handle a baby mini lop then god help you when she grows up and develops hormones


Name them. I tried baiting with food but rabbit ignored me. I tried touching rabbit so she runs toward the carrier but she ended running all over the place instead. I tried calling her name. I tried luring her with toys.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

This is my advice for all new bunny owners who want to give their new bunny the best possible home they can &#8211; 

Firstly, do choose your bunny home carefully. So many pet shops sell accommodation that is far too small for a rabbit. If you buy accommodation in good faith, and then find that it is far too small, don&#8217;t be frightened to return it to the pet shop/outlet. If they are difficult, try quoting the &#8220;five freedoms&#8221; and Animal Welfare Act 2006. 

Your rabbit/s need a hutch or base of at least 6ft by 2ft, with permanent access to a large space where they can run and jump, and just be a bunny. Indoors, you can provide a large base with permanent access to a bunny proofed room. Outside, many people build or convert aviaries, sheds and playhouses that they then link to runs.

Rabbits are sociable animals, so should really live with a rabbit friend &#8211; never a guinea pig &#8211; but do take care re sexing, and have your buns neutered/spayed as soon as possible. 

Choose your type of rabbit carefully &#8211; think about size &#8211; think about adopting one of the many discarded rabbits in rehoming centres &#8211; and remember, rabbits often live for 10 plus years, so it is a big commitment.
Be aware of the expense of having rabbits &#8211; vaccinations, spay, neuter, dentals, unexpected vet care &#8211; it all mounts up. Consider insurance, but read the small print.

Look for a rabbit savvy vet &#8211; few and far between sadly.

When you bring your rabbit/s home, let them settle for a day or so. 
Keep feeding them the food that they are used to, in the same quantity. Offer unlimited hay, and give water in the same way they are used to (bowl or bottle). 

If the rabbit/s are fed a muesli mix when they come to you, gradually switch them to pellets such as Science Selective.

If your accommodation has a ramp, be aware that your bunny may take time to learn to use it. Make sure there is water and hay on each level. Scatter food on the ramp, and give the bunny time to explore.

Avoid Burgess Excel -can upset some tums. Talk to your buns when you are near them. Avoid sudden noises. Don&#8217;t over handle. You will only make them timid or vicious. Also avoid approaching them from above &#8211; rabbits are a prey species and they will see you as a predator, which will scare them.

Be prepared that rabbits are crepuscular &#8211; ie most active during dusk and dawn. This means they are likely to be active when we are trying to sleep!

Offer litter trays full of hay, and your buns will gradually house train themselves &#8211; and become much easier to clean. This willl also improve once they are neuterd.

Be aware that an unneutered, enthusiastic male will spray everywhere to mark his territory, and they are naturally smellier at this stage. 

Also be aware that food goes through them twice &#8211; ie they eat their soft poo (caecotrophs). Waste pellets are small hard dry balls.

If your buns are inside, think about the chemicals you use around them &#8211; air sprays, fresheners, shake n vac &#8211; all containing possible toxins.

Take time to win your bunnies trust and in turn they will into repay you with a lifetime of love. Rush them, grab them, mis treat them and you will end up with a terrified or vicious pet. 

That is when we come in.


----------



## kate_7590 (Feb 28, 2009)

Has 'rabbit' got a name????
Seems very impersonal to just call the little girl 'Rabbit'.....


----------



## Guest (Sep 16, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> Name them. I tried baiting with food but rabbit ignored me. I tried touching rabbit so she runs toward the carrier but she ended running all over the place instead. I tried calling her name. I tried luring her with toys.


She is an 8 week old baby, if you can't pick her up to put her in the carrier then i don't know what else to suggest, the towel method is not the way to go about winning over her trust.

She won't know her name when you have only had her two days, try spending time with her at her level rather than trying to teach tricks or force her into being friends...


----------



## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

ninjayau said:


> She kept running away from me so I trapped her in the cage's corner and wrapped her in a towel. She stopped moving then and I was able to pet her. After I god rid of the towel she stayed in the corner. I placed me hand lying on the hay next to her and she sniffed my hand... then kept grabbing hay and throwing it on top of my hand as if trying to burry my hand lol. She got bored of that and just sat there for the next ten minutes with my hand next to her, sniffing me once in a while. Then she stretched her legs looking like she's sun bathing. Tried stroking her head then but this time she darted back into the plastic house. Will repeat this towel method again tomorrow so she's used to me petting her.


That is not going to get her used to you petting her, it is going to make her afraid of you and she will spend her life running away when she senses you near. If you have been taken from your littermates, put in a strange place, not understanding why or what is happening, you want to explore in your own time. If some giant came along and grabbed you and wrapped you in a towel so you couldn't move, would it make you feel happy with the situation?

Any animal brought into a home needs to come to you in its own good time. That will probably never happen now as you have scared her and denied her the opportunity to find her own way and her own confidence.

She is an animal, not a toy.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

To get a bunny used to the carry case that you will use to transport it to the vets, leave it open in the room the bun is exploring. Put somedelicious hay in.

Then leave it.

In its own time, bunny will approach it, have a sniff, maybe look inside - and in time, will venture in to eat some hay.

That way the bun learns not to be frightened of something new and strange smelling. as it goes in, of course, the carrier will take on the bunny's smell. 

This allows bunny to build up confidence.

Any grabbing, of course, will frighten the bunny and teach it that being put in a carry case is a scary thing, and something to be avoided.

Patience is a virtue.


----------



## Adam942 (Sep 22, 2011)

i have a suspicion we are being trolled... surely someone wouldnt be like this.


----------



## zowie (Apr 3, 2011)

Adam942 said:


> i have a suspicion we are being trolled... surely someone wouldnt be like this.


Id like to hope that someone wouldn't be like this but you can never tell in todays day and age i suppose


----------



## Guest (Sep 16, 2012)

Adam942 said:


> i have a suspicion we are being trolled... surely someone wouldnt be like this.


That's why my answers have been short and sweet :ciappa:

I have my suspicions that the op is linked with another member who used to like winding us up


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

People on here love to share their photos - we would love to see a photo of your baby bun - we could even help you choose a name for her!!


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Summersky said:


> People on here love to share their photos - we would love to see a photo of your baby bun - we could even help you choose a name for her!!


I'll try to get a snapshot tomorrow on my webcam. She's still refusing to eat food from my hand but when I place food in the bowl and tilt it near her, she's willing to eat. Right now I named her Judge Boo. Lol.

And to the other user talking about letting the rabbit explore... if it takes 1 year+ before she's willing to enter the carrier, do I wait until then before I take her to the vet? Don't think so. I'll ask the vet to cut her nails too.


----------



## Lara1988 (Aug 8, 2012)

I think your expecting too much too soon from her. Are you expecting to be able to scoop her up and hand feed her?

I bought home a new rabbit last week. The first few days I left her to it to settle in. Today I sat in the run reading a book and was thrilled when she followed my other rabbit over to me. I was thrilled when she nudged my foot.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

An inquisitive young bun wouldn't usually take too long to explore a carry case. It just helps relax them.

Good luck at the vets. Do check they are rabbit savvy though, otherwise they are a waste of money, except for the basics - we even had a simple vaccination go wrong at a crap vets year ago - people on here will be able to advise you of good vets in your area. There's nothing worse than wasting hard earned money at a cheap, useless vets - as many have sadly discovered to our own and our bunny's cost.

I doubt she will need her nails clipped at such a young age though.


----------



## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

ninjayau said:


> I'll try to get a snapshot tomorrow on my webcam. She's still refusing to eat food from my hand but when I place food in the bowl and tilt it near her, she's willing to eat. Right now I named her Judge Boo. Lol.
> 
> And to the other user talking about letting the rabbit explore... if it takes 1 year+ before she's willing to enter the carrier, do I wait until then before I take her to the vet? Don't think so. I'll ask the vet to cut her nails too.


Of course she won't eat food from your hand. She doesn't know you and so far you have scared the life out of her, so why should she relax enough with you to eat. If you can sit near her while she eats you are doing well. It shouldn't be much effort to pick up a tiny bunny and pop her in the carry case. Is it a front loading one or a top loading one? I imagine front, as you are talking about enticing her in. I find the top loading ones much easier with rabbits and cats.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

With quiet patience, you can still bring your bunny around, if you really want to, and are prepared to take it slowly.

We have brought a terrified half wildy, (who came to us because he was going to be put to sleep), around in 5 days, just by sitting in the run with him, totally ignoring him, making no sudden movements. Time consuming and boring yes - a book helped - but this would be easier indoors. 

Scatttering food encouraged him to come out of his hidey hole with no man handling, and eat food nearby. Gradually, he began to relax,and on the fifth day he took a pellet from our hands! 

Over four years later, he lives outside with a bunny girlfriend. He is relaxed and will explore when we go into the enclosure. He likes a nose rub, but is and always be a "don't pick me up" bunny. That is just his nature and instinct.

We just respect his needs.


----------



## andrea84 (Aug 16, 2012)

Adam942 said:


> i have a suspicion we are being trolled... surely someone wouldnt be like this.


i think so too , im sure i have seen this person winding someone up on another thread


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Summersky said:


> People on here love to share their photos - we would love to see a photo of your baby bun - we could even help you choose a name for her!!


She eats so much she's grown huge already lol. Pics attached.


----------



## newfiesmum (Apr 21, 2010)

andrea84 said:


> i think so too , im sure i have seen this person winding someone up on another thread


I think you have seen it on a few threads, but in case it is not a troll we keep replying sensibly. It is also useful for anyone reading who is genuinely concerned about the welfare of their rabbit.


----------



## Guest (Sep 17, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> She eats so much she's grown huge already lol. Pics attached.


Just a quick heads up, you might find she isn't a mini lop. Her ears look too long to be a mini to me, she looks more like a dwarf lop 

If I am right she will be far too big for that cage within a few months.


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

B3rnie said:


> Just a quick heads up, you might find she isn't a mini lop. Her ears look too long to be a mini to me, she looks more like a dwarf lop
> 
> If I am right she will be far too big for that cage within a few months.


WHAT?! You mean I've been duped by the rabbit breeder? Taking rabbit to vet today instead of tomorrow then. Will get her breed and gender confirmed properly.


----------



## Guest (Sep 17, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> WHAT?! You mean I've been duped by the rabbit breeder? Taking rabbit to vet today instead of tomorrow then. Will get her breed and gender confirmed properly.


I doubt a vet will be able to confirm her breed, many pet breeders can't really guarantee the breed either. Half the time they have no idea of breed standards and breed from crosses anyway.

There are good breeders out there, but they are few and far between.


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

B3rnie said:


> I doubt a vet will be able to confirm her breed, many pet breeders can't really guarantee the breed either. Half the time they have no idea of breed standards and breed from crosses anyway.
> 
> There are good breeders out there, but they are few and far between.


On another forum people are saying she's a mini lop cause her face and head is too round to be a dwarf lop. But her ears are slightly long for a mini lop. Maybe a cross breed? She's asleep right now. Will grab her and put her in the carrier after she wakes up and see the vet. Earlier this morning I placed hay and food in the carrier. Waited for two hours and she completely ignored it. Also ignored the food in the wooden ramp. Last night she knocked a lot of hay on the wooden ramp, maybe trying to block the hole lol.

Tonight I'll place her in the bottom part of the cage and remove the plastic house. Will add an extra layer of meadow hay so when she's running she's not causing much noise. She runs and runs but just won't use the wooden ramp to access the other part of the cage. She's using the litter tray now, and also pooing everywhere else including the top of her plastic house.


----------



## andrea84 (Aug 16, 2012)

why not leave the carrier in the cage over night if it will fit,she may explore it when your not watching, just a suggestion


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

andrea84 said:


> why not leave the carrier in the cage over night if it will fit,she may explore it when your not watching, just a suggestion


Already tried that. She never enters it, and even if she does that doesn't mean she'll enter it when I need her to. I'll be grabbing her shortly and she's still sleeping... sleeping on the litter tray. Think I should have bought a smaller litter tray. I'll see if the vet sells any wipes and check if I'm holding her correctly. I can never hold her feet so I always just hold her below her front paws.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

She is a very pretty rabbit, and looks very like some of our dwarf lops - but be warned - there's nothing dwarf about them! They tower over our netherland dwarves and are nearly twice the size! 

Hopefully your vet will be able to confirm that she is indeed a she - and very well done for registering her with a vet so soon, rather than waiting until there is a problem.

Re the litter tray, the bigger the better. In fact, fit in more if you can. She will sit in the tray to eat hay, then poo as she eats. This will really help with toilet training.

Do you have any other pets by the way?


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Summersky said:


> She is a very pretty rabbit, and looks very like some of our dwarf lops - but be warned - there's nothing dwarf about them! They tower over our netherland dwarves and are nearly twice the size!
> 
> Hopefully your vet will be able to confirm that she is indeed a she - and very well done for registering her with a vet so soon, rather than waiting until there is a problem.
> 
> ...


Vet said she's definitely female, a lop, and should be a mini lop based on weight and height, but I'll have to wait until she's fully grown before that can be confirmed. Vet assured me Judge Boo only needed one combined vaccination (think I'll listen to the vet over some online stranger here). Also told me to place a finger above her front paws when holding her, and get rid of my brush cause it's too rough for the rabbit's fur. Also bought a Keen it Clean disinfectant/deodorant cleaner there. Smells nicer than the Exner Petguard and Multi-Surface Lemon Cleaner I used previously.

No other pets.

The Glade Shake n' Vac product I've been using on the carpet is ok for the rabbit providing I keep the room well ventilated.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

Personally, I just LOVE the natural smell of a healthy bunny! Oh, and the smell of fresh, sweet hay! Guess we are all different.

We keep all household and personal chemicals away from our buns - air fresheners, surface sprays, deoderants, etc. unless they are specifically for use around rabbits. Safer that way.

Re the combi vaccine, it is so new, the advice is still changing all the time, and it is hard to keep up to date - that includes vets. Some people on here are more up to date with current thinking than the vets, believe me.

It is not a "one size fits all" vaccine, sadly. I believe that they have upped the VHD element to offer more protection, but in some cases single VHD follow up is recommended (high risk areas). This info may also be out of date, but again- who knows what each vet has in stock? I also believe that if a bun has already had myxi and recovered, it may compromise the effectiveness of the combi vaccine. 

We still have a lot to learn about the combi vaccine sadly, and it is hard for vets to keep up to date too.

Re handling - I am surprised that the breeder did not show you how best to handle your little bun. That was bad.


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Summersky said:


> Re handling - I am surprised that the breeder did not show you how best to handle your little bun. That was bad.


She taught me to place three fingers below the rabbit's front paws and one finger above it so the rabbit is resting on my hand. Then quickly scoop her bum up with my other hand. If I want to clip her nails or clean her bottom after I'm holding her that way, flip her so she's lying on my left arm like a cradle. Rabbit's suppose to play dead if I do that.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

Just a thought. 

I have never used it, but it might be worth considering Nilodor Tap-A-Drop Odour Remover, if you have a serious problem with smells.

Shake and Vac can cause skin irritations so is best avoided.


----------



## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

ninjayau said:


> She taught me to place three fingers below the rabbit's front paws and one finger above it so the rabbit is resting on my hand. Then quickly scoop her bum up with my other hand. If I want to clip her nails or clean her bottom after I'm holding her that way, flip her so she's lying on my left arm like a cradle. Rabbit's suppose to play dead if I do that.


Please if this is the only advice you listen to from me don't make your bunny play dead. Its a state of extreme fear that rabbits do to escape predators when caught, by beng on their back they think they've been caught by a fox for example and being carried off. They play dead by going limp and still so the fox relaxes its grip enough for the rabbit to give some strong kicks and escape. It should never be used as a way of holding a pet bunny ever.


----------



## Guest (Sep 17, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> She taught me to place three fingers below the rabbit's front paws and one finger above it so the rabbit is resting on my hand. Then quickly scoop her bum up with my other hand. If I want to clip her nails or clean her bottom after I'm holding her that way, flip her so she's lying on my left arm like a cradle. Rabbit's suppose to play dead if I do that.


Rabbits don't play dead, what you are explaining is trancing, and something you should never do. Their heart rate triples during tracing, they are not calm they are scared stiff.
Trancing should only be done in an emergency situation and only by people that know what they are doing.

And with regards to the vaccine I would urge your vet to speak to the manufacturers, last I heard if a rabbit had not been vaccinated prior to giving the combi then a top up single vaccine is required to give the rabbit full protection against VHD.

I do know the company is compiling some figures and doing research on how effective the vaccine is, personally I'm sticking to the singles for now (the singles are still being made so a vet is bound by his ethics to order it in if requested) until there is more information available.

I know hoe effective the singles are so i'm not willing to change until I see proof of how effective the combi is


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

Have to agree with Kammie and Bernie re trancing.


----------



## ninjayau (Sep 13, 2012)

Summersky said:


> Just a thought.
> 
> I have never used it, but it might be worth considering Nilodor Tap-A-Drop Odour Remover, if you have a serious problem with smells.
> 
> Shake and Vac can cause skin irritations so is best avoided.


How do you know it can cause skin irritations? Rabbit's crawls on the floor once and she hasn't been itching. I tested crawling on the floor and my skin's ok. It's not like I sprinkled that product and that's it. I have vacuumed the carpet and the only thing left is the smell. But anyway, in the meantime I'll stick with placing a slice of lemon on top of the hutch.


----------



## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

ninjayau said:


> How do you know it can cause skin irritations? Rabbit's crawls on the floor once and she hasn't been itching. I tested crawling on the floor and my skin's ok. It's not like I sprinkled that product and that's it. I have vacuumed the carpet and the only thing left is the smell. But anyway, in the meantime I'll stick with placing a slice of lemon on top of the hutch.


I'm a vet nurse and would say the same as Summersky, many household cleaning products are known to irritate animals skin not just in rabbits but cats and dogs too.


----------



## Summersky (Aug 11, 2012)

Lemon out of reach is a great idea!!

I love the smell of shake n vac, but never use it now we have house buns. Depends on your hoover, but some powder often remains in the pile. 

Shake n vac is just a known irritant - maybe not immediately, but possibly in the future, and once an animal develops sensitive skin, it can be hard to treat - just trying to help you avoid additional vets bills - they are bad enough anyway!!

Baby bun's skin is going to be far more delicate than ours, but we can develop sensitivities to all sorts too. So no more rolling on the carpet!!


----------



## Louiseandfriends (Aug 21, 2011)

Why don't you keep her outside if the smell is a problem? Get her a nice 6x2 hutch and a 6x6 run attached?  xx


----------



## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

Buddyandfriends said:


> Why don't you keep her outside if the smell is a problem? Get her a nice 6x2 hutch and a 6x6 run attached?  xx


And a friend


----------



## Louiseandfriends (Aug 21, 2011)

Kammie said:


> And a friend


OH YES! A friend is a must.  xx


----------



## emzybabe (Jun 30, 2009)

Just wanted to add rabbits really don't smell of anything other than sweet hay - unless their feed has been changed so dramatically that they have an upset stomach. I would also be avoiding giving her any veg until she is at least 12 weeks old. 

You should avoid using any heavily scented sprays in the same room that you keep your rabbit even deodorant will harm their respiratory systems. If you want to freshen up your room use some fixed scents like the airwick crystal airs placed high up out of her reach. You will find using anything strongly scented in the same room as her will make litter training moor difficult


----------



## Guest (Sep 17, 2012)

ninjayau said:


> How do you know it can cause skin irritations? Rabbit's crawls on the floor once and she hasn't been itching. I tested crawling on the floor and my skin's ok. It's not like I sprinkled that product and that's it. I have vacuumed the carpet and the only thing left is the smell. But anyway, in the meantime I'll stick with placing a slice of lemon on top of the hutch.


Shake and vac is a skin irritant, it is on the label for a start. Your skin will be much tougher than a rabbits, their skin is extremely thin so more likely to react.
Also the powder will be in the air so she risks inhaling it every time you use it.

Once she is spayed her urine won't smell as strong, as the vet says she is healthy she really shouldn't smell so not sure why you're so insistent on all these smelly things :bored:


----------



## niki87 (Nov 18, 2009)

Also...just to add...if this gorgeous little rabbit is not given a decent sized area to live in AND a companion, preferably a neutered male, then she will most likely become an agitated rabbit who may bite. The only rabbit I have ever seen bite aggressively was one who was kept alone.


----------



## Kammie (Apr 4, 2009)

niki87 said:


> Also...just to add...if this gorgeous little rabbit is not given a decent sized area to live in AND a companion, preferably a neutered male, then she will most likely become an agitated rabbit who may bite. The only rabbit I have ever seen bite aggressively was one who was kept alone.


Thats quite true. Rosie was agressive when I first rescued her from the "breeder". She would lunge and bite anyone who went near her. All it took was to spay her and give her space and a friend to turn her into a gentle calm rabbit. She hasn't ever bitten me or lunged since she calmed down.


----------

